Isuzu Rodeo UE. Service manual — part 451
7A–20
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (4L30–E)
Chart 15a: Possible Causes of Low Line Pressure
Step
Action
Yes
No
1
Check oil level.
Was the problem found?
Fill with ATF.
Go to Step 2
2
Check for defective throttle position sensor.
Was the problem found?
Replace throttle
position sensor.
Go to Step 3
3
Check for plugged, loose, or damaged oil filter (79).
Was the problem found?
Inspect oil filter,
tighten bolts or
replace oil filter
(79).
Go to Step 4
4
Check for a stuck force motor plunger (404). (Adapter case valve
body)
Was the problem found?
Replace force
motor plunger
(404).
Go to Step 5
5
Check for a stuck feed limit valve (412). (Adapter case valve body)
Was the problem found?
Replace feed limit
valve (412).
Go to Step 6
6
Check for loose converter bolts (4 & 5).
Was the problem found?
Tighten converter
bolts (4 & 5).
Go to Step 7
7
Check for a stuck pressure regulator valve (208). (Oil pump)
Was the problem found?
Replace pressure
regulator valve
(208).
Go to Step 8
8
Check for a stuck boost valve (205). (Oil pump)
Was the problem found?
Replace boost
valve (205).
Go to Step 9
9
Check for blocked intermediate oil passages to pressure
regulator valve. (Oil pump)
Was the problem found?
Replace oil
pump.
Go to Step 10
10
Check for defective oil pump (9, 201, 202 & 209).
Was the problem found?
Replace oil
pump.
Go to Step 11
11
Check for internal leaks.
– Check balls missing or out of location in valve bodies
– Seals cut or damaged
– Gaskets defective, etc.
Was the problem found?
Install balls, or
correct ball
location.
Replace seals.
Replace gaskets.
—
7A–21
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (4L30–E)
Chart 15b: Possible Causes of High Line Pressure
NOTE: If transmission is operating in backup mode, high
line pressure will be present.
Step
Action
Yes
No
1
Check for defective throttle position sensor.
Was the problem found?
Replace throttle
position sensor.
Go to Step 2
2
Check for a stuck force motor plunger (404). (Open
circuit/intermittent) (Adapter case valve body)
Was the problem found?
Replace force
motor plunger
(404).
Go to Step 3
3
Check for a stuck feed limit valve (412). (Adapter case valve body)
Was the problem found?
Replace feed limit
valve (412).
Go to Step 4
4
Check converter bolts (4 & 5).
Was the problem found?
Tighten converter
bolts (4 & 5).
Go to Step 5
5
Check for a stuck pressure regulator valve (208). (Oil pump)
Was the problem found?
Replace pressure
regulator valve
(208).
Go to Step 6
6
Check for a stuck boost valve (205). (Oil pump)
Was the problem found?
Replace boost
valve (205).
Go to Step 7
7
Check for internal leaks.
– Check balls missing or out of location in valve bodies
– Seals cut or missing
– Gaskets defective, etc.
Was the problem found?
Install balls, or
correct ball
location.
Replace seals.
Replace gaskets.
—
Chart 16: Possible Causes of
Transmission Fluid Leaks
Before attempting to correct an oil leak, the actual source
of the leak must be determined. In many cases, the
source of the leak may be difficult to determine due to
“wind flow” around the engine and transmission.
The suspected area should be wiped clean before in-
specting for the source of the leak.
Oil leaks around the engine and transmission are gener-
ally carried toward the rear of the vehicle by the air
stream. In determining the source of an leak, the following
two checks should be made:
1. With the engine running, check for external line
pressure leaks.
2. With the engine off, check for oil leaks due to the
raised oil level caused by drainback of converter oil
into the transmission.
7A–22
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (4L30–E)
Possible Causes of Fluid Leaks Due To Sealing Malfunction
240RS002
Legend
(1) Electrical Connector (Main Case) Seal
(2) Transmission Vent (Breather)
(3) Speed Sensor O–ring
(4) Extension (Adapter) Lip Seal
(5) Extension (Adapter) to Main Case Gasket
(6) Oil Drain Plug Gasket
(7) Oil Pan Gasket (Main Case)
(8) Selector Shaft Seal
(9) Oil Cooler Connectors (2)
(10) Oil Pan Gasket (Adapter Case)
(11) Converter housing attaching bolts not correctly
torqued
(12) Converter Housing Lip Seal
(13) Line Pressure Tap Plug
(14) Electrical Connector (Adapter Case) Seal
(15) Adapter Case Seal Rings (2)
Stall Test
The stall test allows you to check the transmission for
internal abrasion and the one way clutch for slippage.
Torque converter performance can also be evaluated.
The stall test results together with the road test results will
identify transmission components requiring servicing or
adjustment.
Stall Test Procedure:
1. Check the level of the engine coolant, the engine oil,
and the automatic transmission fluid. Replenish if
necessary.
2. Block the wheels and set the parking brake.
3. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
4. Start the engine and allow it to idle until the engine
coolant temperature reaches 70 – 80
°
C (158 –
176
°
F).
5. Hold the brake pedal down as far as it will go.
6. Place the selector in the “D” range.
7. Gradually push the accelerator pedal to the floor.
The throttle valve will be fully open.
Note the engine speed at which the tachometer
needle stabilizes.
Stall Speed : 2,200
±
150 rpm
NOTE: Do not continuously run this test longer than 5
seconds.
8. Release the accelerator pedal.
9. Place the selector in the “N” range.
10. Run the engine at 1,200 rpm for one minute.
This will cool the transmission fluid.
11. Repeat Steps 7 – 10 for the “3”, “2”, “L” and “R”
ranges.
7A–23
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (4L30–E)
Line Pressure Test
The line pressure test checks oil pump and control valve
pressure regulator valve function. It will also detect oil
leakage.
Line Pressure Test Procedure:
1. Check the level of the engine coolant, the engine oil,
and the automatic transmission fluid.
Replenish if required.
2. Block the wheels and set the parking brake.
3. Remove the pressure detection plug at the left side of
the transmission case.
Set J–29770–A pressure gauge and adapter to the
pressure detection plug hole.
241RS001
4. Start the engine and allow it to idle until the engine
coolant temperature reaches 70 – 80
°
C (158 –
176
°
F).
5. Hold the brake pedal down as far as it will go.
6. Place the selector in the “D” range.
7. Note the pressure gauge reading with the engine
idling.
8. Gradually push the accelerator pedal to the floor. The
throttle valve will be fully open.
Note the pressure gauge reading with the accelerator
pedal fully depressed.
NOTE: Do not continuously run this test longer than 5
seconds.
9. Release the accelerator pedal.
10. Place the selector in the “N” range.
11. Run the engine at 1,200 rpm for one minute.
This will cool the transmission fluid.
12. Repeat Steps 7 – 11 for the “3”, “2”, “L”, and “R”
ranges.
13. Install a pressure detection plug to the transmission
case, applying recommended thread locking agent
(LOCTITE 242) or its equivalent to thread of plug.
Make sure that thread is cleaned before applying
locking agents.
14. Tighten the pressure detection plug to the specified
torque.
Torque: 9 – 14N·m (7 – 10lb ft)
MODE
LEVER
ENGINE SPEED
LINE PRESSURE
FORCE MOTOR
MODE
POSITION
ENGINE SPEED
kPa
PSI
CURRENT
NORMAL/POWER
D,3,2,L
IDLE
312–363
45.2–52.6
VARIABLE
WINTER
D
IDLE
312 – 363
45.2 – 52.6
0.9 – 1.0A
NORMAL/POWER
WINTER
REVERSE
IDLE
419 – 486
60.7 – 70.5
0.9 – 1.0A
NORMAL/POWER
D, 3, 2, L
STALL SPEED
1,236 – 1320
179.3 – 191.4
0.1 – 0.2A
WINTER
D
STALL SPEED
1,236 – 1320
179.3 – 191.4
0.1 – 0.2A
NORMAL/POWER
WINTER
REVERSE
STALL SPEED
1,634 – 1743
236.9 – 252.8
0.1 – 0.2A
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