Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual — part 4

2B•14 OHC engines

20.15 Fitting the crankshaft

20.16a Fitting a main bearing cap

20.16b Tightening a main bearing cap bolt

Valve lifters, rockers and thrust

pads

9 Any signs of wear in a hydraulic lifter can

only be rectified by renewal, the unit cannot

be dismantled.

10 Inspect the rockers and thrust pads for

wear or grooving. Again, renew if evident.

Piston/bore grade marks

11 The number or code denoting the piston

and bore grade (see Specifications) will be

found on the sump sealing surface of the

smaller engines, and near the engine number

20.17 Inject jointing compound into the

20.19 Checking crankshaft endfloat

on the larger engines.

cap side grooves

jointing compound. After fitting the bearing

probably be required.

22 Engine lubrication and

cap and tightening its securing bolts, inject

3 The camshaft itself should show no marks

crankcase ventilation systems -

further RTV jointing compound into the side

or scoring on the journal or cam lobe

general description

grooves until it is certain that they are full (see

surfaces. If evident, renew the camshaft.

illustration).

When renewing a camshaft, it should be

1 Oil pressure for all moving components is

18 Fit the front main bearing cap, but before

noted that, in some instances, a camshaft

provided by a gear type oil pump which is

fitting the retaining bolts, smear them with

with undersize bearing journals and

driven from the front end of the crankshaft.

jointing compound, and then tighten to the

appropriately-machined carrier journals may

The crankshaft has flats for this purpose.

specified torque wrench setting. Check that

have been fitted by the manufacturer. Where

2 The pump draws oil from the sump through

the bearing cap is exactly flush with the end

applicable, such camshafts are colour-coded

a pick-up pipe and strainer and pumps it

face of the crankcase as it is tightened.

violet for identification, and this should be

through the oil filter and oil galleries to the

19 Now rotate the crankshaft and check that

checked to ensure that the correct

engine friction surfaces.

it turns freely, and shows no signs of binding

replacement is obtained.

3 A pressure regulator valve is screwed into

or tight spots. Check that the crankshaft

4 The retaining plate should appear unworn

the body of the oil pump. A relief valve,

endfloat is within the limits specified, using a

and without grooves. In any event, check the

located in the oil filter mounting base, opens

dial gauge or with feeler blades inserted

camshaft endfloat and fit a new plate where

should the filter block due to clogging caused

between the flange of the centre bearing shell

necessary.

by neglected servicing. An oil pressure switch

and the machined surface of the crankshaft

5 The housing front oil seal should always be

is screwed into the pump casing.

(see illustration). Before measuring, make

renewed at major overhaul.

4 The cylinder bores are lubricated by oil

sure that the crankshaft has been forced fully

splash from the sump.

Camshaft toothed belt

towards one end of the crankcase to give the

5 The hydraulic valve lifters are pressurised

widest gap at the measuring location.

6 Closely inspect the belt for cracking, fraying

with oil to maintain optimum valve clearance

Incorrect endfloat will most likely be due to

or tooth deformation. Where evident, renew

at all times.

wear or to incorrect regrinding (assuming that

the belt.

6 The crankcase ventilation system is

the correct shells have been fitted).

7 If the belt has been in use for 30 000 miles

designed to draw oil fumes and blow-by gas

or more, it is recommended that it is renewed

(combustion gas which has passed the piston

even if it appears in good condition.

21 Engine components -

rings) from the crankcase into the air cleaner,

8 Whenever the original belt is to be

examination and renovation

whence they are drawn into the engine and

removed, but is going to be used again,

burnt during the normal combustion cycle.

always note its running direction before

7 On larger engines, one of the crankcase

1 Refer to Chapter 2A Section 21, noting the

removing it. It is even worthwhile marking the

following additional information

ventilation hoses is attached to the camshaft

tooth engagement points on each sprocket.

cover. Inside the cover is a filter which should

As the belt will have worn in a set position,

Camshaft

be cleaned in paraffin periodically

(see

refitting it in exactly the same way will prevent

2 With the camshaft removed, examine the

illustrations).

any increase in noise which might otherwise

bearings for signs of obvious wear and pitting.

8 On smaller engines, the ventilation system

occur when the engine is running.

If evident, a new camshaft housing will

incorporates an oil separator bolted to the

OHC engines 2B•15

22.7a Crankcase ventilation hose attached

22.7b Camshaft housing filter

22.8 Crankcase ventilation system oil

to camshaft cover (1 .8 litre engine shown)

separator - 1.3 litre engine

block. Although it is not a specified

maintenance task, the separator can be

removed for cleaning (see illustration).

9 On all engines, the breather hoses should

be cleaned out periodically and renewed if

necessary. Investigate the cause of any

build-up of white sludge - sometimes this

indicates a cooling system fault or a blown

head gasket, although it may simply mean

that the engine is not reaching operating

temperature (eg short runs in winter).

10 The lubrication system of some larger

engines incorporates an oil cooler. Oil leaves

and returns via an adapter mounted between

the oil filter and its housing (see illustrations).

The adapter contains a thermostatic valve

which prevents the oil from circulating in the

cooling circuit until it has warmed up. The oil

cooler itself is mounted in front of the radiator.

11 The oil cooler pipes and hoses should be

inspected regularly for signs of deterioration

or leakage. The oil cooler fins will benefit from

an occasional cleaning with solvent, followed

if possible by blowing through the fins with

compressed air.

12 At time of engine overhaul, consideration

should be given to renewing the oil cooler,

especially if major mechanical failure has

occurred. If the old cooler is to be re-used it

should be flushed with several changes of

clean oil in an attempt to remove metal

particles and other contaminants.

13 Access to the oil cooler is gained by

removing the radiator (Chapter 3) or the front

trim panel (Chapter 11).

22.10b Oil cooler and associated components

1 Adapter

9 Oil cooler

17 Screw

2 Sealing ring

10 Mounting rubber

18 Flow pipe

3 Hollow screw

11 Washer

19 Return pipe

4 Thermostatic valve

12 Nut

20 Grommet

5 Spring

13 Bracket

21 Clamp

6 Plug

14 Bracket

22 Clamps

7 Seal

15 Nuts

23 Screws

22.10a Oil cooler adapter (arrowed) above

8 Circlip

16 Washer

24 Nuts

oil filter

2B•16 OHC engines

23 Engine - removal and refitting

Removal

1 The OHC engines may be removed either

with or without the manual gearbox. To

remove the engine alone, proceed as

described in Chapter 2A, Section 23, making

allowances for differences in the attachment

of components such as the carburettor or fuel

injection items.

23.9a Engine wiring harness plug

23.9b Dipstick sensor plug

2 Removal of the engine and automatic

transmission together may be possible, but it

is not recommended because of the weight

14 Slacken the front wheel bolts, raise and

remaining engine-to-bellhousing bolts and

and unwieldiness of the combined units.

securely support the front of the car and

carefully withdraw the gearbox from the

3 To remove the engine and manual gearbox

remove the front wheels.

engine. Do not allow the weight of the

together, first disconnect both battery

15 Unbolt and remove the exhaust

gearbox to hang on the clutch input shaft.

terminals. Remove the bonnet (Chapter 11).

downpipe(s). Also disconnect the earth strap

Refitting

4 Remove the air cleaner, as described in

from the gearbox.

Chapter 4.

16 Where applicable, disconnect the oil

23 When

refitting,

tighten

the

5 Drain the cooling system as described in

cooler hoses from the oil filter housing. Be

engine/transmission mounting bolts finger

Chapter 1. Disconnect all coolant hoses from

prepared for some oil spillage and plug the

tight at first, then to the specified torque, in

the engine, not forgetting the heater hoses

hoses.

the following order:

and (if fitted) the inlet manifold/carburettor

17 Separate the control arm balljoints from

a) RH front mounting.

heating hoses.

the steering knuckles. See Chapter 10 for

b) LH front mounting.

6 Disconnect the throttle cable and (if fitted)

details.

c) Rear mounting.

the choke cable, as described in Chapter 4.

18 Separate the driveshafts from the final

24 The remainder of the refitting process

7 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose.

drive housing, as described in Chapter 8. Be

follows the reverse order to removal. Refer to

Either remove the hose completely, or secure

prepared for some oil spillage; plug the

the appropriate Chapters for guidance if

it so that it will not be damaged.

driveshaft holes and tie the shafts up out of

necessary. Remember to replenish the

8 Disconnect and plug the fuel feed and

the way.

gearbox oil after refitting.

return lines. Be prepared for some fuel

19 Attach the lifting tackle to the engine and

spillage.

gearbox and take the weight of the assembly.

24 Engine - initial start-up after

9 Disconnect the engine wiring harness plug.

20 Unbolt

the

engine/transmission

overhaul

On models so equipped, disconnect the

mountings from the body members (see

dipstick sensor wiring also (see illustrations).

illustrations).

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 24. There is

10 Disconnect the HT lead, LT leads and

21 Carefully lower the assembly through the

no need to adjust the valve clearances, but

multi-plug from the ignition coil and module.

engine bay to the ground. Depending on the

remember to tighten the head bolts (Section

11 Disconnect the gearchange remote

type and reach of the vehicle lifting gear, it

8) if the head has been disturbed. Expect

control rod at the pinch-bolt.

may be necessary to lift the vehicle off the

some initial noise from the hydraulic valve

12 Disconnect the speedometer cable at the

engine to enable it to be withdrawn.

lifters, until they are properly pressurised with

gearbox end.

22 To separate the engine and gearbox.

oil.

13 Disconnect the clutch cable, as described

support the latter and unbolt the starter motor

in Chapter 6.

and flywheel bottom cover. Remove the

23.20a Engine/transmission left-hand

23.20b Engine/transmission right-hand

mounting

2C•1

Chapter 2 Part C:

DOHC (16-valve) engine

Contents

Ancillary components - removal and refitting

Engine - removal and refitting

Camshaft sprocket oil seals - renewal

Engine components - examination and renovation

Camshaft toothed belt - removal and refitting

Engine dismantling and reassembly - general

Camshaft toothed belt tensioner and idler rollers - removal and

Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting

refitting

Flywheel - removal and refitting

Camshafts - removal and refitting

General description

Compression test - description and interpretation

General engine checks

See Chapter 1

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting

Oil cooler thermostatic - valve removal and refitting

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal

Oil pressure regulating valve - removal and refitting

Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal

Oil pump - overhaul

Cylinder head - overhaul

Oil pump - removal and refitting

Cylinder head - removal and refitting

Operations requiring engine removal

Engine oil and filter - renewal

See Chapter 1

Pistons and connecting rods - dismantling and reassembly

Engine oil level check

See Weekly checks

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul

Sump and oil baffle plate - removal and refitting

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

Fairly easy, suitable

Fairly difficult,

Difficult, suitable for

Very difficult,

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

DIY or professional

Specifications

General

Type

Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled, double overhead camshaft,

transversely mounted

Engine code*

20XE, C20XE* or 20XEJ

Bore

86.0 mm

Stroke

86.0 mm

Capacity

1998 cc

Firing order

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation

Clockwise

Compression ratio

10.5: 1

Note: The engine code forms the first digits of the engine number

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

Diameter

Marking

Standard size 1

85.98 mm

85.99 mm

86.00 mm

86.01 mm

Standard size 2

86.02 mm

Oversize (0.5 mm)

86.47 mm

7 + 0.5

86.48 mm

8 + 0.5

86.49 mm

9 + 0.5

86.50 mm

0 + 0.5

Maximum cylinder bore ovality

0.013 mm

Maximum cylinder bore taper

0.013 mm

2C•2 DOHC (16-valve) engine

Crankshaft

Number of main bearings

Main bearing journal diameter

57.982 to 57.995 mm

Crankpin diameter

48.971 to 48.987 mm

Undersizes

0.25 and 0.50 mm

Crankshaft endfloat

0.07 to 0.3 mm

Main bearing running clearance

0.015 to 0.04 mm

Big-end running clearance

0.019 to 0.063 mm

Big-end side-play

0.07 to 0.24 mm

Bearing shell identification:

Top shells:

Main bearings, standard

Brown

Main bearings, 0.25 mm undersize

Brown/blue

Main bearings, 0.5 mm undersize

Brown/white

Big-end bearings, standard

None

Big-end bearings, 0.25 mm undersize

Blue

Big-end bearings, 0.5 mm undersize

White

Bottom shells:

Main bearings, standard

Green

Main bearings, 0.25 mm undersize

Green/blue

Main bearings, 0.5 mm undersize

Green/white

Big-end bearings, standard

None

Big-end bearings, 0.25 mm undersize

Blue

Big-end bearings, 0.5 mm undersize

White

Main and big-end bearing journal out-of-round

0.04 mm max

Crankshaft radial run-out (at centre journal, shaft in block)

0.03 mm max

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter

0.03 mm less than bore diameter

Piston-to-bore clearance

0.02 to 0.04 mm

Gudgeon pins

Length

61.5 mm

Diameter

21 mm

Clearance in piston

0.003 to 0.010 mm

Clearance in connecting rod

0.015 to 0.030 mm

Cylinder head

Minimum acceptable height after machining

135.63 mm

Maximum acceptable gasket face distortion

0.025 mm

Camshaft bearing bore diameter

28.000 to 28.021 mm

Valve seat width:

Inlet

1.0 to 1.4 mm

Exhaust

1.4 to 1.8 mm

Camshafts

Drive

Toothed belt

Number of bearings:

Inlet

Exhaust

Bearing journal diameter

27.939 to 27.960 mm

Bearing journal running clearance

0.061 mm

Camshaft endfloat

0.04 to 0.144 mm

Cam lift

9.5 mm

Valves

Operation

Bucket tappet incorporating hydraulic adjuster

Seat angle

44° 40’

Length:

Production

105 mm

Service

104.6 mm

Head diameter:

Inlet

33 mm

Exhaust

29 mm

Stem diameter (standard):

Inlet

6.955 to 6.970 mm

Exhaust

6.945 to 6.960 mm

Stem diameter (oversize)

0.075 and 0.150 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance:

Inlet

0.045 mm

Exhaust

0.055 mm

Valve clearance

Automatic adjustment by hydraulic adjusters

DOHC (16-valve) engine 2C•3

Valves (continued)

Valve guide internal diameter:

Standard

7.000 to 7.015 mm

Oversizes

0.075 and 0.150 mm

Valve guide installed height

10.70 to 11.00 mm

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Starter motor-to-block bolts

Starter motor bracket-to-block bolts

Manifold nuts

Alternator mounting-to-block bolts

Steering pump mounting-to-block bolts

Crankshaft pulley-to-sprocket screws with splined heads

Crankshaft sprocket central bolt (greased threads):

Stage 1

250

184

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 40 to 50°

Main bearing caps:

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 40° to 50°

Big-end bearing caps:

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 45° to 60°

Engine mountings (use thread-locking compound)

Camshaft bearing caps:

M8 nuts

M6 nuts

Oil drain plug

Oil pump housing-to-block bolts

Sump bolts (use thread-locking compound)

Flywheel bolts (use thread-locking compound):

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 30° to 45°

Water pump-to-block bolts

Camshaft sprocket bolts:

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 40° to 50°

Camshaft drivebelt tensioner and idler rollers-to-block bolts:

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 45° to 60°

Camshaft cover screws

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1

Stage 2

Angle-tighten a further 65°

Stage 3

Angle-tighten a further 65°

Stage 4

Angle-tighten a further 65°

Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature then

Angle tighten a further 30° to 45°

Note: All bolts which are angle tightened must be renewed whenever they are disturbed

sodium melts and improves the conduction of

heat away from the valve head. The

3 Operations requiring engine

1 General description

combustion chambers are of pent roof

removal

pattern, with the spark plugs centrally placed

The 2.0 litre 16-valve engine differs from the

between the valve rows.

The design of the engine is such that great

other 2 litre engines fitted to the range in the

The camshaft toothed belt also drives the

accessibility is afforded and it is only

areas of the cylinder head, camshaft drive and

water pump, as in the other engines, but a

necessary to remove the engine for attention

associated components. The block,

separate roller is used to adjust belt tension.

to the crankshaft and main bearings.

crankshaft and pistons are essentially

An idler roller is used to complete the belt run.

unchanged, except for the use of fully floating

The engine is pleasing in appearance and

4 Engine dismantling and

gudgeon pins secured by circlips.

obviously well-engineered. Extensive use has

reassembly - general

The cylinder head carries two camshafts,

been made of aluminium castings, not only for

both driven by the same toothed belt. The

components such as the sump and camshaft

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 5.

front camshaft operates the exhaust valves,

toothed belt cover but even for the flywheel

the rear camshaft the inlet valves. The cam

cover and spark plug lead cover.

lobes bear directly onto bucket tappets which

5 Ancillary components - removal

incorporate hydraulic adjuster mechanisms.

and refitting

2 Compression test - description

The front camshaft also drives the distributor.

There are four valves per cylinder, two inlet

and interpretation

Refer to Chapter

2A, Section

6. For

and two exhaust. The exhaust valves are

information on the fuel injection components,

sodium-filled; at operating temperature the

Refer Chapter 2A, Section 2.

refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 4B.

2C•4 DOHC (16-valve) engine

7.6a Removing a belt cover bolt . . .

7.6b . . . and the rubber bush

7.6c The belt cover seal

cleaner-to-air mass meter trunking. Slacken

E20, will be needed. If this is not available,

6 Oil pressure regulating valve -

the clips and remove the trunking.

engage 4th or 5th gear and turn the crankshaft

4 Remove the air cleaner as described in

by turning a front wheel. It is easier to do this

removal and refitting

Chapter 4B.

smoothly if the spark plugs are removed).

5 Remove the steering pump drivebelt (when

9 Remove the six screws with splined heads

Refer to Chapter 2B, Section 6.

applicable) and the alternator drivebelt.

and lift off the crankshaft pulley. The screw

6 Remove the three bolts and rubber bushes

holes are offset so it will only fit one way.

7 Camshaft toothed belt -

which secure the camshaft toothed belt

10 Slacken the camshaft belt tensioner screw

removal and refitting

cover. Remove the cover and its seal (see

using a 6 mm Allen key (see illustration).

illustrations).

Move the tensioner to slacken the belt and slip

Note: The camshaft toothed belt must be

7 Working through the wheel arch, slacken

the belt off the sprockets and rollers.

renewed every time it is removed, even if it is

the six screws with splined heads which

11 Do not turn the crankshaft or camshafts

apparently in good condition.

secure the crankshaft pulley to the sprocket.

while the belt is removed, or piston/valve

For better access, unbolt the oil cooler hose

contact may occur.

Removal

clip from the inner wing.

Refitting

1 Raise and support the front of the vehicle

8 Turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on

(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove

the pulley is in line with the pointer and the

12 Commence refitting by checking that the

the engine undertray and the wheel arch

timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are in

pulley and sprocket timing marks are still

splash shields as a unit.

line with the notches on the backplate (see

correctly aligned. Temporarily refit the pulley

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

illustrations).

(To turn the crankshaft by

and secure it with two screws to do this.

3 Unclip the throttle cable from the air

means of the central bolt, a Torx socket, size

When satisfied, remove the pulley.

13 Fit the new belt over the sprockets and

rollers, being careful not to kink it. Observe

any arrows or other indication of running

direction.

14 Refit the crankshaft pulley. Secure it with

the six screws with splined heads, tightened

to the specified torque (see illustration).

15 The belt tension must now be set. The

makers specify the use of a special tool

(KM-666); if this is available, proceed as

follows (see illustration).

16 Fit the special tool to the tensioner. Make

sure the tensioner is free to move.

17 Make a mark on the exhaust camshaft

7.8a Pulley notch and pointer must be

7.8b . . . and sprocket marks align with

sprocket, seven teeth anti-clockwise from the

aligned . . .

backplate notches (arrowed)

timing mark. Turn the crankshaft clockwise

7.10 Slackening the camshaft belt

7.14 Tightening one of the crankshaft

7.15 Special tool KM-666 for tensioning

tensioner screw

pulley screws

the camshaft toothed belt

DOHC (16-valve) engine 2C•5

serious. The only way to be certain that

tension is correct is to use the maker’s tool, or

to have a Vauxhall garage carry out the work.

20 Whichever tensioning method was used,

now turn the crankshaft through two full turns

clockwise and check that the pulley and

sprocket timing marks come back into correct

alignment. If they do not, remove the belt and

start again.

21 The remainder of refitting is the reverse of

the removal procedure.

8 Camshaft toothed belt

7.18 Checking the belt tension using a

9.4a Fitting a new camshaft oil seal

tensioner and idler rollers -

spring balance and ruler

removal and refitting

until the new mark is aligned with the notch on

the belt backplate. In this position tighten the

tensioner screw to the specified torque, then

Removal

remove the special tool.

1 Remove the toothed belt as described in

18 If the special tool is not available, belt

Section 7.

tension must be set by hand. Move the

2 Remove the Allen screw which secures the

tensioner using a square drive in the hole

belt tensioner. Lift off the tensioner and its

provided, nip up the screw and check the

mounting plate and recover the spacer sleeve.

tension. As a guide, tension is correct when

3 Similarly unbolt and remove the idler roller

the belt cannot quite be twisted through 90°

and recover its sleeve.

by hand in the middle of the run between the

4 Renew the rollers if they show roughness

exhaust camshaft sprocket and the idler roller.

when spun, or if they have been noisy in

If a spring balance is available, correct tension

operation.

is indicated when in the same place the belt is

9.4b Seating a camshaft oil seal

deflected 10 mm by a load of 9 kg (see

Refitting

illustration). When tension is correct, tighten

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

and use this to lever the seal out. Clean the

the tensioner screw to the specified torque.

procedure, noting the following points:

seal seat.

19 It must be emphasised that the method of

a) Make sure the spacer sleeves are the right

4 Grease the lips of a new seal and fit it, lips

setting belt tension without the special tool is

way round. The smaller diameter of the

inwards. Seat the seal by tapping it home

given as a guide only. The consequences of a

tensioner sleeve goes towards the block.

using a mallet and a large socket or a piece of

belt slipping or breaking in service could be

The smaller diameter of the idler sleeve

tube (see illustrations).

goes away from the block.

5 Repeat the operations on the other oil seal.

b) Tighten the screws to the specified

6 The remainder of refitting is the reverse of

torque.

the removal procedure. Fit a new camshaft

c) Fit a new camshaft toothed belt.

toothed belt as described in Section 7.

9 Camshaft sprocket oil seals -

10 Camshafts - removal and

renewal

refitting

1 Remove the camshaft toothed belt as

described in Section 7.

Removal

2 Remove the camshaft cover and the

1 Remove the camshaft toothed belt as

camshaft sprockets, as described in

described in Section 7.

paragraphs 1 to 4 of Section 10.

2 Remove the spark plug cover, which is

10.3a Removing a camshaft sprocket bolt

3 Punch or drill a small hole in the face of one

retained by two Allen screws. Disconnect the

and washer

of the oil seals. Screw in a self-tapping screw

breather hoses from the camshaft cover, re-

move the 20 Allen screws and the camshaft

cover itself.

3 Hold a camshaft using an open-ended

spanner on the flats provided towards the

sprocket end. Without allowing the camshaft

to move (risk of piston-to-valve contact)

slacken the sprocket bolt. Remove the bolt,

washer and sprocket (see illustrations).

4 Repeat the operation on the other

camshaft. Although both sprockets appear to

be identical, it is good practice not to get

them mixed up. The exhaust sprocket on the

engine shown here is marked ‘L’; the inlet

sprocket is unmarked (see illustration).

10.3b Removing a camshaft sprocket

10.4 Exhaust camshaft sprocket is marked

5 Remove the distributor (Chapter 5C).

‘L’

2C•6 DOHC (16-valve) engine

10.6 Matching numbers on bearing cap

10.7 Distributor housing bearing cap has

10.11 Fitting a camshaft bearing cap

and cylinder head

two extra nuts

6 Check that the camshaft bearing caps carry

identification numbers, and note which way

round they are fitted. The inlet camshaft caps

are numbered 1 to 5, the exhaust camshaft

caps 6 to 10. Corresponding numbers are

cast in the cylinder head (see illustration).

7 Progressively slacken the bearing cap nuts,

half a turn at a time until the valve spring

pressure has been released. Do not overlook

the two extra nuts on the cap which forms

part of the distributor housing

(see

illustration). Remove the nuts and washers

and lift off the caps. Be careful that a

camshaft does not spring up suddenly when

10.12 Tightening a camshaft bearing cap

10.14 Tightening a camshaft sprocket bolt

removing the caps.

nut

8 Remove the camshafts with their oil seals.

Be careful when handling them, as the edges

17 Fit a new camshaft toothed belt as

2 Disconnect the multi-plug from the air mass

of the lobes are sharp. Remove the oil seals.

described in Section 7.

meter. Undo the four or five Allen screws,

18 If new camshafts have been fitted, it is

release the idle speed adjuster hose and

Refitting

suggested that the running-in schedule

remove the volume chamber and air mass

9 Commence refitting by generously oiling

specified in Chapter 2B, Section 9, paragraph

meter together.

the camshaft bearing surfaces and lobes. If

14, be observed.

3 Drain the cooling system by disconnecting

fitting new camshafts, apply the special

the radiator bottom hose (see Chapter 1).

assembly lubricant provided.

4 Disconnect the accelerator cable.

11 Cylinder head - removal and

10 Apply sealant to the mating faces of the

5 Remove the nine nuts which secure the

bearing caps which house the oil seals (Nos 1

refitting

inlet manifold. They have deformed threads so

and 6) and to the one which houses the

they are stiff. A socket with a universal joint or

distributor drive (No 11).

Note: The procedure described here is the

‘wobble drive’ will be needed to reach some

11 Place the camshafts in position with the

removal of the cylinder head leaving the inlet

of the nuts.

sprocket locating pins uppermost. Fit the

manifold and fuel injection equipment in

6 Cut the cable-tie which secures the injector

bearing caps, in their correct positions and

place. If preferred, the manifold can be

wiring harness to the cylinder head.

the right way round, and the nuts and washers

removed with the head after making the

7 Disconnect the two small breather hoses

(see illustration).

appropriate disconnections.

from the camshaft cover (see illustration).

12 Tighten the bearing cap nuts half a turn at a

8 Unbolt the support bracket from the base of

Removal

time in progressive sequence so the camshafts

the inlet manifold (see illustration). Slide the

are pulled down evenly. Finally tighten them to

1 Remove the camshaft toothed belt as

manifold off the cylinder head studs. Be careful

the specified torque (see illustration).

described in Section 7.

not to strain the fuel hoses or the wiring.

13 Fit new oil seals as described in Section 9.

14 Refit the sprockets to their respective

camshafts. Fit the sprocket bolts and tighten

them to the specified torque, holding the

camshafts with a spanner on the flats to

prevent rotation (see illustration).

15 Using a strap wrench on the sprocket or a

spanner on the sprocket bolt, carefully move

each camshaft a little way to verify that it is

free to turn. If the cylinder head is installed on

the engine, be careful that piston-to-valve

contact does not occur. If a camshaft will not

turn, it may be that the bearing caps have

been fitted the wrong way round.

16 Refit the distributor and the camshaft

11.7 Disconnecting the small breather

11.8 Unbolting the inlet manifold support

cover.

hoses from the camshaft cover

bracket (seen from below)

DOHC (16-valve) engine 2C•7

11.11 Disconnecting the heater hose from

11.15 Disconnecting the large breather

11.16 Removing a camshaft cover screw

the cylinder head

hose

9 Remove the exhaust manifold (Chapter 4B).

secure the top of the belt backplate to the

careful not to get any debris into the cylinder

10 Remove the radiator top hose.

cylinder head. Also remove the rubber bush

bores. Cover the open bores, or stuff oily rags

11 Disconnect the heater hose from below

and unscrew the belt cover mounting stud

into them, to protect them if the head is going

the distributor (see illustration).

(see illustrations).

to be off for more than a few hours.

12 Remove the spark plug lead cover

19 Using a size E12 Torx socket, slacken the

Refitting

secured by two Allen screws. Disconnect the

cylinder head bolts a quarter-turn each in the

HT leads from the plugs and move them

sequence shown. In the same sequence

22 Commence refitting by placing a new

aside.

slacken the bolts a further half-turn, then undo

head gasket onto the block, making sure that

13 Remove the distributor (Chapter 5C).

them completely and remove them

(see

it fits over the locating dowels and that it is the

14 Remove the thermostat housing (Chapter 3).

illustrations). Recover the washers. New

right way up (see illustration). It is marked

15 Disconnect the large breather hose from

bolts must be used when refitting.

‘OBEN/TOP’.

the camshaft cover (see illustration). Unbolt

20 Lift off the cylinder head, pulling the inlet

23 Lower the head onto the block and fit it

the hose bracket from the cylinder head.

manifold back towards the bulkhead slightly if

onto the dowels. Fit the washers to the new

16 Remove the 20 Allen screws which secure

necessary (see illustration). Be careful not to

bolts, fit the bolts and tighten them finger

the camshaft cover (see illustration). Remove

bend the belt backplate. Put the head down

the cover.

on two blocks of wood so that it does not rest

tight.

17 Remove the camshaft sprockets (Section

on the protruding valves.

24 Following the sequence shown, tighten

10).

21 Recover the gasket from the cylinder

the bolts through the first four stages given in

18 Remove the two Torx screws which

block and clean the mating surface, being

the Specifications (see illustrations).

11.18a Remove the rubber bush . . .

11.18b . . . and the belt cover mounting

11.19a Cylinder head bolt slackening

stud

sequence

11.19b Removing a cylinder head bolt and

11.20 Lifting off the cylinder head

11.22 New head gasket in position

washer

2C•8 DOHC (16-valve) engine

11.24a Cylinder head bolt tightening

11.24b Angle tightening a cylinder head

11.25 Fitting a new gasket to the camshaft

sequence

bolt

cover

25 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of

b) Use a new camshaft toothed belt and

4 Using a sucker or a magnet, remove the

the removal procedure, noting the following

tension it as described in Section 7.

hydraulic tappet buckets from their bores (see

points:

c) Tighten all fastenings to the specified

illustration). If they are to be re-used, keep

a) Use new gaskets on the thermostat

torque.

them in order so that they can be refitted to

housing, the manifolds and the camshaft

d) Run the engine until the cooling fan cuts

their original locations. To stop the oil draining

cover (see illustration).

in. If the hydraulic tappets have been

out of them, store them in a bath of clean

disturbed, they may be noisy for a few

engine oil with the oil ring lowermost.

minutes until they settle down. Switch the

5 Prepare a box with 16 compartments to

engine off, remove the camshaft cover

receive the valve components. Using a valve

again and tighten the cylinder head bolts

spring compressor and a piece of tube with

through the final specified stage.

two slots cut in it, compress a valve spring

(see illustration). Extract the collets from the

top of the valve stem using a pencil magnet or

12 Cylinder head - overhaul

a magnetic screwdriver.

6 Carefully release the compressor and

remove the valve, the spring upper seat and

1 Remove the manifold gaskets

the spring. Pull off the valve stem oil seal with

2 Remove the camshafts, slackening the

longnosed pliers and recover the valve spring

bearing cap nuts progressively until the valve

seat. Place all the components in the

spring pressure is released.

12.4 Removing a tappet. Note the oil ring

appropriate compartment in the box (see

3 Remove the spark plugs.

illustrations).

(arrowed)

12.5 Detail of valve spring compressor

12.6a Remove the valve . . .

12.6b . . . the spring upper seat . . .

head and tube

12.6c . . . the valve spring . . .

12.6d . . . the valve stem oil seal

12.6e . . . and the valve spring seat

(arrowed) . . .

DOHC (16-valve) engine 2C•9

12.12a Fit a valve stem oil seal into a

12.12b . . . and press it home

12.13 Fitting a valve collet

socket or tube . . .

7 Repeat the operations on the other 15

compressor. Apply a solid tube or piece of

Refitting

valves.

wood (eg a hammer handle) to the top of the

9 Commence refitting by applying sealant to

8 Clean the combustion chambers and the

valve and tap smartly with a hammer to settle

the oil pump housing joint and the rear main

gasket mating faces with a wooden or plastic

the components.

bearing cap joint.

scraper. Finish up with a rag or toothbrush

15 Repeat the operations on the other valves.

10 Apply sealant to a new gasket and fit the

and a solvent such as a proprietary

16 Refit the tappets, with the oil ring

gasket to the block. Make sure that the

carburettor cleaner.

lowermost, oiling them generously

(see

locating dowels are in position.

9 Inspect the valves, springs and seats as

illustrations). If new camshafts are to be

11 Fit the baffle plate to the block. Refit the

described in Chapter

2A, Section

fitted, apply some of the assembly lubricant

oil pick-up pipe and bracket, using a new

paragraphs 7 to 11. Note however that the

supplied with new camshafts to the top

O-ring between the pipe and the pump and

exhaust valves on these engines are filled with

surfaces of the tappets.

17 Fit the camshafts and their oil seals as

applying sealant to the bolt threads.

sodium to improve heat transfer. Sodium is a

described in Section 10.

12 Fit another new gasket, this time without

highly reactive metal which will ignite or

18 The distributor and spark plugs may be

sealant, between the baffle plate and the

explode spontaneously on contact with air or

refitted now, or if preferred left until after the

sump. Fit the sump, apply sealant to the bolt

water. Valves containing sodium must not be

head has been refitted.

threads and insert and tighten the bolts.

disposed of in ordinary scrap.

13 The remainder of refitting is the reverse of

10 Check the head gasket mating face for

the removal procedure. Remember to refit and

distortion using a straightedge and feeler

13 Sump and oil baffle plate -

tighten the drain plug and to refill the engine

blades. Check crosswise, lengthwise and

removal and refitting

with oil on completion.

diagonally. Warp limits are given in the

Specifications.

11 Inspect the camshafts and their bearing

Removal

14 Oil pump - removal and

surfaces and caps as described in Section 24.

1 Raise and support the front of the vehicle

refitting

12 Commence reassembly by fitting a valve

(see

“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

spring seat to its location. Fit a new valve

Disconnect the battery earth (negative) lead.

stem oil seal to the top of the valve guide,

2 Drain the engine oil.

Removal

using a deep socket or a piece of tube (see

3 Remove the exhaust manifold (Chapter 4).

1 Remove the camshaft toothed belt as

illustrations).

4 Disconnect the multi-plug from the engine

described in Section 7.

13 Oil the valve stem and insert the valve into

oil level sensor.

2 Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the filter

its guide, passing it gently through the stem

5 Remove the flywheel cover plate.

housing and move them aside. Be prepared

oil seal to avoid damage. Fit the valve spring

6 Remove the sump retaining bolts. Remove

for oil spillage.

and upper seat. Compress the spring and fit

the sump, tapping it with a hide or plastic

3 Remove the camshaft cover and both

the collets using a magnetic screwdriver this

mallet if necessary to break the joint.

camshaft sprockets (see Section 10).

is a fiddly business. A dab of grease on each

7 Remove the oil pick-up pipe and its

4 Remove the belt tensioner and idler rollers.

collet will keep them in position on the valve

bracket, followed by the baffle plate.

5 Remove the crankshaft sprocket central

stem (see illustration).

8 Remove the old gaskets and clean the

bolt, using an E20 Torx socket. The bolt is

14 Carefully release the valve spring

mating surfaces.

very tight prevent the crankshaft turning by

engaging a gear, chocking the wheels and

applying the handbrake, or remove the

flywheel cover plate and have an assistant

jam the ring gear teeth.

6 Remove the crankshaft sprocket, using a

puller if necessary. Note how the tang on the

sprocket engages with the keyway in the

crankshaft. Recover the spacer from behind

the sprocket. Remove the timing belt

backplate.

7 Remove the sump, oil pick-up pipe and

baffle plate as described in Section 13.

8 Unbolt the oil pump from the block and

remove it. Clean the pump and block mating

12.16a Oiling a tappet . . .

12.16b . . . and fitting it to its bore

faces.

2C•10 DOHC (16-valve) engine

Refitting

21 Crankshaft rear oil seal -

9 Commence refitting by smearing a new

gasket with grease and placing it on the

renewal

pump. Grease the lips of the oil seal and refit

the pump, being careful not to damage the oil

Remove the flywheel as described in

seal as it passes over the crankshaft.

Section 20.

10 Insert the pump securing bolts. Position

Renew the oil seal as described in Chapter

the bottom of the pump flush with the sump

2A, Section 19.

mating face of the block and tighten the bolts

to the specified torque.

22 Engine/transmission

11 Thinly coat the outer face of the spacer

mountings - removal and

with sealant to GM spec 15 04 200/8 983 368

refitting

(see Chapter 2B, Section 20, paragraph 17).

Push the spacer onto the crankshaft.

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 17.

12 The remainder of refitting is the reverse of

the removal procedure. Remember to fit a

16.2 Circlip securing oil cooler

new camshaft toothed belt.

thermostatic valve

23 Crankshaft and main bearings

- removal and refitting

15 Oil pump - overhaul

18 Pistons and connecting rods

Refer to Chapter 2B, Section 20.

- removal and refitting

Refer to Chapter 2B, Section 14.

24 Engine components -

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 15, but note

examination and renovation

that the pistons and rods may be separated if

16 Oil cooler thermostatic valve

wished, as described in Section 19.

1 The cylinder head and oil pump have been

- removal and refitting

considered earlier in this Chapter. For other

19 Pistons and connecting rods

components refer to Chapter 2A, Section 21,

Removal

- dismantling and reassembly

and note the following additional information.

1 The thermostatic valve is mounted in the oil

Camshafts

1 With the pistons and connecting rods

cooler adapter, just above the oil filter.

removed they may be separated if necessary

2 With the camshafts removed, examine the

2 Place a drain tray under the filter housing.

as follows.

bearing surfaces and lobes for wear, pitting

Remove the circlip from the end of the valve

2 Note the relative orientation of rod and

and scuffing. Measure the bearing journals

(see illustration).

piston. When fitted, the arrow on the piston

with a micrometer. Dimensions are given in

3 Recover the plug, spring and thermostatic

crown points to the camshaft sprocket end of

the Specifications.

element. There will be some oil spillage.

the engine, and the bosses on the connecting

3 Wear or damage to a camshaft means that

4 Clean and examine the components: renew

rod face towards the flywheel.

it must be renewed. If there is corresponding

any which are obviously worn or damaged.

3 Remove one of the circlips which secure

wear in the bearing seats and caps, a

Refitting

the gudgeon pin. Push the gudgeon pin out of

complete new cylinder head will be required.

the piston and connecting rod using a

The bearing caps are line bored in position on

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

wooden or brass rod. No great force should

the head and cannot be renewed separately.

procedure. Check the engine oil level and top-

be necessary.

4 With the camshafts fitted to the head,

up if necessary.

4 When refitting, fit the connecting rod into

check their endfloat using a dial gauge or

the piston and make sure they are the right

feeler blades. Endfloat outside the limits

17 Crankshaft front oil seal -

way round. Oil the gudgeon pin and push it

specified means that the camshaft(s) and/or

renewal

home, then secure it with the circlip.

cylinder head must be renewed.

Camshaft toothed belt

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket as

20 Flywheel - removal and

5 As mentioned earlier, the belt must be

described in the procedure for oil pump

refitting

renewed every time that it is removed, even if

removal. There is no need to remove the cam-

it appears to be in good condition.

shaft sprockets or belt backplate. Recover the

spacer from behind the sprocket.

Removal

Piston/bore grade marks

2 Drill or punch a small hole in the face of the

1 Remove the clutch assembly as described

6 The number or code denoting the piston

oil seal. Screw in a self tapping screw and use

in Chapter 6.

and bore grade

(see Specifications) is

this to lever out the seal. Clean the seal seat.

2 Mark the position of the flywheel relative to

stamped on the block near the engine

3 Grease the lips of a new oil seal. Fit the

the crankshaft. Jam the ring gear teeth and

number.

seal, lips inwards, and seat it using a piece of

slacken the flywheel retaining bolts

(see

tube, some washers and the crankshaft

Chapter 2A, Section 16).

sprocket bolt.

3 Remove the bolts and lift off the flywheel.

25 Engine - removal and refitting

4 Thinly coat the outer face of the spacer with

Do not drop it, it is heavy. Obtain new bolts for

sealant to GM spec 15 04 200/8 983 368 (see

reassembly.

Chapter 2B, Section 20, paragraph 17). Push

Refitting

Removal

the spacer onto the crankshaft.

5 The remainder of refitting is the reverse of

4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

1 The engine is removed with the transmission

the removal procedure. Remember to fit a

procedure. Tighten the bolts to the specified

by lowering the two out of the engine bay. They

new camshaft toothed belt.

torque.

can then be separated on the bench.

DOHC (16-valve) engine 2C•11

2 Disconnect both leads from the battery.

21 Unbolt the earth strap from the

3 Depressurise the fuel system (Chapter 4B).

transmission.

4 Remove the bonnet.

22 Disconnect the speedometer cable, or

5 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4B).

disconnect the speedometer sender

6 Disconnect the idle adjuster hose from the

multi-plug, as applicable (see illustration).

pre-volume chamber. Remove the screws

23 Engage second gear, then disconnect the

from the pre-volume chamber, disconnect the

gearchange remote control by undoing the

multi-plug from the air mass meter and

pinch-bolt.

remove the pre-volume chamber and air mass

24 Disconnect the clutch cable.

meter together.

25 Slacken the front wheel bolts, raise and

7 Drain the cooling system (Chapter 1).

securely support the front of the car and

8 Disconnect all coolant and heater hoses

remove the front wheels (see “Jacking and

from the engine.

Vehicle Support”).

9 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose at

26 On models with power steering, remove

25.22 Speedometer sender (used with

the servo.

the pump drivebelt. Unbolt the pump and

digital instrument panel)

10 Disconnect the accelerator cable.

move it aside without disconnecting its hoses.

first, then to the specified torque in the

11 Disconnect the fuel supply and return

Support it so that the hoses are not strained.

following order:

pipes from the fuel injector rail. Be prepared

27 Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the

a) LH front.

for fuel spillage. Release the pipes from any

filter housing. Be prepared for oil spillage.

b) RH front.

clips or ties and move them out of the way.

28 Remove the exhaust manifold (Chapter

c) Rear

12 Remove the exhaust manifold securing

4B).

35 The remainder of refitting is the reverse of

nuts and heat shield.

29 Separate the control arm balljoints from

the removal procedure.

13 Disconnect the engine wiring harness

the steering knuckles (see Chapter 10).

multi-plug next to the expansion tank.

30 Separate the driveshafts from the final

14 Disconnect the multi-plugs from the fuel

drive housing (see Chapter 8). Be prepared for

26 Engine - initial start-up after

injectors and the throttle valve switch. Also

oil spillage. Plug the holes and tie the

overhaul

unbolt the earth straps from the fuel rail.

driveshafts up out of the way.

15 Disconnect the HT distributor-to-ignition

31 Attach the lifting tackle to the

1 Refer to Chapter

1, Section

24, but

coil lead and the LT multi-plug from the

engine/transmission and take the weight.

disregard the instructions to check the idle

distributor.

Check that no cables, hoses etc are still

speed and valve clearances.

16 Disconnect the wiring harness multi-plug

attached or are otherwise in the way.

2 If new camshafts have been fitted, it is

at the left-hand suspension turret.

32 Unbolt

the

engine/transmission

suggested that the running-in schedule

17 In the area of the right-hand suspension

mountings in the following order:

specified in Chapter 2B, Section 9, paragraph

turret, disconnect the multi-plugs for the

a) LH front.

14, be observed.

inductive pulse sensor and (if applicable) the

b) Rear.

3 Run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in.

vent valve and the oxygen sensor.

c) RH front.

If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed,

18 Disconnect the wiring from the two

33 Carefully lower the assembly through the

they may be noisy for a few minutes until they

temperature sensors on the thermostat

engine bay to the ground. If necessary lift the

settle down.

housing.

vehicle off the engine to enable it to be

4 Switch the engine off, remove the camshaft

19 On the rear of the engine disconnect the

withdrawn.

cover and tighten the cylinder head bolts

multi-plugs from the knock sensor, the idle

through the final specified stage.

Refitting

speed adjuster and the oil temperature

switch.

34 When refitting, apply thread-locking

20 Disconnect the oil level sensor and the

compound to the engine/ transmission

reversing light switch.

mounting bolts. Tighten them finger tight at

3•1

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Contents

Antifreeze mixture

See Chapter 1

Heater components - removal and refitting

Coolant level check

See Chapter 1

Heater/ventilation system - general information

Cooling system - draining

See Chapter 1

Radiator - removal, inspection and refitting

Cooling system - filling

See Chapter 1

Radiator electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting

Cooling system - flushing

See Chapter 1

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting

Cooling system electrical switches - testing, removal and refitting . . .7

Vents and grilles - removal and refitting

Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal

Water pump - removal and refitting

General information and precautions

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

Fairly easy, suitable

Fairly difficult,

Difficult, suitable for

Very difficult,

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

DIY or professional

Specifications

Thermostat

Opening temperature:

1.3 litre models

91°C

All other models

92°C

Fully open temperature:

1.3 litre models

103°C

All other models

107°C

Expansion tank cap

Opening pressure

1.20 to 1.35 bar

Fan thermoswitch

Switches on at:

Early models

97°C

Later models

100°C

Switches off at

93°C

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Coolant pump bolts:

1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 litre models

1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models

Thermostat housing bolts:

1.3 and 1.4 litre models

1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models

Temperature sender in manifold

Temperature sender in thermostat housing

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Warning: Do not allow

avoid damaging the radiator If preferred, the

1 General information and

antifreeze to come into contact

cooling fan may be removed first, as

precautions

with skin or painted surfaces of

described in Section 6, to provide greater

the vehicle. Rinse off spills

access.

immediately with plenty of water. Never

General information

leave antifreeze lying around in an open

If leakage is the reason for

wanting to remove the

The cooling system is of pressurised type,

container or in a puddle in the driveway or

radiator, bear in mind that

comprising of a pump driven by the timing

on the garage floor. Children and pets are

minor leaks can be often be

belt, an aluminium crossflow radiator, electric

attracted by its sweet smell. Antifreeze

cured using a proprietry radiator

cooling fan, and a thermostat. The system

can be fatal if ingested.

sealant, with the radiator in situ.

functions as follows. Cold coolant from the

radiator passes through the hose to the

2 Cooling system hoses -

1 Drain the cooling system, (Chapter 1), and

coolant pump where it is pumped around the

disconnection and renewal

disconnect the battery earth terminal.

cylinder block and head passages. After

2 Slacken the retaining clips and detach the

cooling the cylinder bores, combustion

surfaces and valve seats, the coolant reaches

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1

radiator top and bottom hoses and also the

of this Chapter before proceeding.

smaller diameter expansion tank vent hose.

the underside of the thermostat, which is

initially closed. The coolant passes through

1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal

3 Disconnect the two electrical leads at the

a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows.

thermal switch on the side of the radiator.

the heater and is returned via the cylinder

block to the coolant pump.

2 First drain the cooling system

(see

4 If the cooling fan is still in position,

When the engine is cold the coolant

Chapter 1). If the coolant is not due for

disconnect the electrical leads at the multi-plug

circulates only through the cylinder block,

renewal, it may be re-used if it is collected in a

adjacent to the fan motor. Release the cable

cylinder head, expansion tank and heater.

clean container.

clips securing the wiring harness to the fan cowl

When the coolant reaches a predetermined

3 To disconnect a hose, use a screwdriver to

bracket and move the harness to one side.

5 On automatic transmission models

temperature, the thermostat opens and the

slacken the clips, then move them along the

equipped with a fluid cooler, disconnect and

coolant passes through to the radiator. As the

hose, clear of the relevant inlet/outlet union.

plug the cooler lines at the radiator side tank.

coolant circulates through the radiator it is

Carefully work the hose free. While the hoses

Be prepared for fluid spillage, and take care

cooled by the inrush of air when the car is in

can be removed with relative ease when new,

not to allow dirt to enter the cooler lines.

forward motion. Airflow is supplemented by

or when hot, do not attempt to disconnect

6 Remove the radiator mounting bolts (one

the action of the electric cooling fan when

any part of the system while it is still hot.

on each side at the top). Carefully lift out the

necessary. Upon reaching the radiator, the

4 Note that the radiator inlet and outlet

radiator, with fan and shroud if not previously

coolant is now cooled and the cycle is

unions are fragile; do not use excessive force

removed.

repeated.

when attempting to remove the hoses. If a

The electric cooling fan mounted on the

Inspection

hose proves to be difficult to remove, try to

rear of the radiator is controlled by a

release it by rotating the hose ends before

7 With the radiator assembly removed it is

thermostatic switch. At a predetermined

attempting to free it. If all else fails, cut the

easier to examine for leaks which will show up

coolant temperature the switch actuates the

hose with a sharp knife, then slit it so that it

as corroded stains. Permanent repairs with

fan.

can be peeled off in two pieces. Although this

this type of radiator are not possible due to

the light alloy and plastic composition. A

may prove expensive if the hose is otherwise

Precautions

proprietary sealant compound may be tried,

undamaged, it is preferable to buying a new

but it is better to renew a defective assembly.

Warning: Do not attempt to

radiator.

8 Clean out the inside of the radiator by

remove the expansion tank filler

5 When fitting a hose, first slide the clips onto

flushing (Chapter 1), and also clean the matrix,

cap or disturb any part of the

the hose, then work the hose into position. If

removing all the dead flies and bugs which

cooling system while the engine

clamp type clips were originally fitted, it is a

reduce the radiator’s efficiency. Take this

is hot, as there is a high risk of

good idea to replace them with screw type

opportunity to inspect the hoses and clips,

scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap

clips when refitting the hose. If the hose is

making sure that all are fit for further use.

must be removed before the engine and

stiff, use a little soapy water as a lubricant, or

radiator have fully cooled (even though

Refitting

soften the hose by soaking it in hot water.

this is not recommended) the pressure in

6 Work the hose into position, checking that it

9 Refitting the radiator is the reverse of the

the cooling system must first be relieved.

Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth,

is correctly routed, then slide each clip along

removal procedure. Check that the rubber

to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the

the hose until it passes over the flared end of

mountings are in good condition and ensure

filler cap until a hissing sound can be

the relevant inlet/outlet union, before

that the bottom location pegs fit correctly on

heard. When the hissing has stopped,

tightening the clips securely.

installation. On completion, refill the cooling

indicating that the pressure has reduced,

7 Refill the cooling system with reference to

system and, on automatic transmission

slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can

Chapter 1.

models, check the transmission fluid level and

be removed; if more hissing sounds are

top-up if necessary. See Chapter 1 for details.

8 Check thoroughly for leaks as soon as

heard, wait until they have stopped before

possible after disturbing any part of the

unscrewing the cap completely. At all

cooling system.

4 Thermostat - removal, testing

times keep well away from the filler cap

opening.

and refitting

3 Radiator - removal, inspection

Warning: If the engine is hot,

and refitting

the electric cooling fan may

Removal

start rotating even if the engine

1 Drain the cooling system, saving the

is not running, so be careful to

Removal

coolant if it is fit for re-use (see Chapter 1).

keep hands, hair and loose clothing well

Disconnect the battery earth lead and

Note: The radiator can be removed with the

clear when working in the engine

proceed as described under the relevant sub-

cooling fan still attached, but due to the

compartment.

heading.

limited space available care must be taken to

Была ли эта страница вам полезна?

Да!Нет

1 посетитель считают эту страницу полезной.

Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual — part 4

Нет комментариевНе стесняйтесь поделиться с нами вашим ценным мнением.