Opel Corsa / Vauxhall. Manual — part 10
Suspension and steering 10•5
3.5b Removing a hub bearing circlip
4.6a One method of unscrewing the strut
ring nut
10 Refit the brake disc shield.
6 To remove the shock absorber cartridge,
11 Support the bearing inner race with a tube
unscrew the ring nut from the top of the strut
and press the hub into position.
tube. This nut is very tight: one way of
12 Refit and secure the brake disc.
undoing it is to invert the strut so that the nut
13 Refit the suspension strut as described in
is clamped in the vice, then levering the strut
Section 2.
round using a long bar and a bolt passed
through the steering eye (see illustrations).
7 With the ring nut removed, the cartridge
4 Front suspension strut -
can be withdrawn and the new one fitted (see
overhaul
illustration). Secure it with a new ring nut,
tightened to the specified torque. Do not
Warning: Before attempting to
clean the wax off the new nut.
dismantle the front/rear
8 Refit the rubber damping ring (where fitted)
suspension strut a suitable tool
then compress the spring and refit it. (Strictly
to hold the coil spring in
speaking it can be left in place when renewing
compression must be obtained Adjustable
the cartridge, but unless special tools are
3.5a Sectional view of front hub
coil spring compressors are readily
available for dealing with the ring nut, it will be
available and are recommended for this
too much in the way.)
A Outboard circlip
B Inboard circlip
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the
9 Lubricate the top mounting ball-bearing
strut without such a tool is likely to result
with grease to GM spec 19 41 574. (The
in damage or personal injury.
bearing cannot be renewed independently of
4 Remove the brake disc shield.
the mounting) (see illustration).
5 Remove the two circlips (see illustrations)
1 Remove the suspension strut (Section 2).
and press or drive the bearing outer races out
10 Fit the top mounting to the strut piston
2 Clamp the strut in a vice. Fit the spring
rod, making sure that the lower thrustwasher
of the steering knuckle.
compressor and tighten it to unload the
6 If the bearing inner race stayed on the hub,
is fitted with the raised edge upwards (see
pressure on the upper seat.
illustration). Hold the piston rod still and fit a
press or pull it off.
3 Hold the flats on the piston rod to stop it
7 Fit the outboard circlip to its groove in the
rotating and unscrew the piston rod nut. A 19
new self-locking nut; tighten the nut to the
specified torque.
steering knuckle so that the ends of the circlip
mm ring spanner with a deep offset will be
will point downwards when the strut is
needed.
installed.
4 Remove the top mounting and ball-bearing.
8 Press the new bearing into position, acting
5 Carefully release the spring compressor.
only on the outer race, until it contacts the
Remove the spring seat, guide ring, damper
outboard circlip.
ring and bellows, followed by the spring itself.
9 Fit the inboard circlip, again with the ends
On later models also remove the rubber
pointing downwards.
damping ring.
10
4.6b Removing the strut ring nut
4.7 Removing the shock absorber
4.9 Lug on spring seat (arrowed) points
cartridge
forwards on LH strut, rearwards on RH
strut
10•6 Suspension and steering
5.3 Control arm balljoint nut (arrowed)
5.4 Control arm clamp bolts (arrowed)
11 Reconnect the anti-roll bar (if applicable).
and drill accurately into a centre punch mark
4.10 Sectional view of strut top mounting
Refer to Section 8 for tightening procedure.
on each rivet head. Have this work done
12 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle and
professionally if need be: sloppy drilling will
A Lower thrustwasher B Upper thrustwasher
tighten the wheel bolts.
render the arm scrap.
3 Fit the new balljoint and secure it with the
11 Release the spring compressor. Make
bolts and self-locking nuts provided. The nuts
6 Control arm bushes - renewal
should be fitted on the underside of the arm.
sure that the ends of the springs are correctly
seated.
Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
4 Refit the control arm, as described in
12 Release the strut from the vice and refit it
1 Remove the control arm, as described in
to the vehicle, as described in Section 2.
Section 5.
Section 5.
13 If new springs or shock absorbers are
2 Press out the front bush using suitable
being fitted, it is good practice to fit new
8 Front anti-roll bar - removal
pieces of tube and a vice or a long bolt and
components to both sides. A great variety of
washers. The bush should be removed from
and refitting
springs is available: consult your GM dealer to
front to rear.
be sure of obtaining the correct ones.
3 Fit the new front bush in the same direction
Removal
(front to rear), using liquid detergent as a
5 Front suspension control arm
lubricant. The inner sleeve collar faces
1 Raise and support the front of the vehicle
- removal and refitting
rearwards. When correctly fitted, the bush
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
should overhang equally on both sides.
2 Unbolt both ends of the anti-roll bar from
4 Support the front of the rear bush. Note
the control arms (see illustration).
Removal
which way round it is fitted, then press the
3 Unbolt the two brackets from the bulkhead.
1 Slacken the front wheel bolts, raise and
arm out of it.
4 Remove the anti-roll bar through one of the
5 Lubricate the rear spigot with liquid
wheel arches, turning the steering wheel as
support the vehicle (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) and remove the front wheel.
detergent, then press on the new rear bush,
necessary to obtain sufficient clearance.
2 When fitted, unbolt the anti-roll bar from the
making sure it is the right way round (flattened
control arm.
surface towards balljoint pin).
3 Remove the split pin and slacken the
6 Refit the control arm, as described in
control arm balljoint nut (see illustration).
Section 5.
Separate the balljoint with a proprietary
separator and remove the nut.
4 Unscrew the clamp bolts and the pivot
7 Control arm balljoint - renewal
bolts from the inboard end of the arm (see
illustration). Withdraw the arm.
1 Remove the control arm (Section 5).
Refitting
2 Drill out the rivets which secure the old
balljoint. Use a pillar drill with a 12 mm bit,
5 Before refitting, clean out the clamp bolt
holes with a tap or a bolt with a slot cut in it.
6 Commence refitting by bolting the arm
loosely into position. Fit the pivot bolt with its
head facing towards the front of the vehicle
and use a new self-locking nut.
7 Use new clamp bolts and coat their threads
with locking compound.
8 Jack up under the control arm so that it is
more or less horizontal, then tighten the pivot
bolt to the specified torque.
9 Tighten the clamp bolts to the specified
torque. Lower the jack under the control arm.
10 Tighten the balljoint pin nut to the
specified torque and secure with a new split
pin.
8.2 Front anti-roll bar end link
8.7 Anti-roll bar cushion link setting
A = 38mm
Suspension and steering 10•7
5 Renew the rubber mountings as necessary.
9.10 Rear wheel hub assembly - later
Use a silicone-based lubricant on the
(1992 onwards) models
bulkhead bracket bushes.
1 Hub
Refitting
2 Bearing housing
6 When refitting, fasten the two brackets first;
3 Stud
tightening their bolts to the specified torque.
4 End cap (with integral wheel speed
7 Tighten the end mountings to achieve a
sensor - models with ABS)
dimension A, as shown using new self-locking
5 Bearings
nuts (see illustration).
6 Sealing ring
8 Lower the vehicle when the anti-roll bar is
7 Pulse gear (ABS vehicles only)
secured.
9 Rear hub bearings - adjustment
Early (pre 1992) models
1 Chock the front wheels. engage a gear (or
P) and release the handbrake.
Later (1992 onwards) models
5 Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor
2 Remove the wheel trim. If the roadwheels
wiring connector (where necessary) then undo
10 On later models, adjustment of the rear
have no central hole, slacken the wheel bolts.
the four retaining nuts and remove the hub
hub bearings is not possible. The taper roller
3 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
assembly from the vehicle.
bearings fitted to earlier models are replaced
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) so that
with double-row roller type bearings which are
Refitting
the wheel is free to turn. If it has no central
sealed and are intended to last the vehicle’s
hole, remove it.
Early (pre 1992) models
4 Prise off the hub grease cap using a stout
entire service life
(see illustration). Note:
6 Fit the hub to the stub axle, being careful
screwdriver.
Never overtighten the hub nut beyond the
not to damage the oil seal. Fit the outer
5 Remove the split pin from the hub nut.
specified torque setting in an attempt to
bearing race, the thrustwasher and the
Tighten the nut to 25 Nm, at the same time
“adjust” the bearing. If there is excess play in
castellated nut (see illustrations).
turning the wheel or brake drum in order to
the hub bearing, the bearings must be
7 Tighten the nut finger tight, then refit the
settle the bearings.
renewed.
brake drum/disc, as described in Chapter 9.
6 Slacken the hub nut until the thrustwasher
8 Adjust the bearings, as described in
behind the nut can just be moved by poking it
10 Rear hub - removal and
Section 9.
with a screwdriver. Do not lever or twist
against the hub nut or brake drum when
refitting
Later (1992 onwards) models
testing the washer for freedom of movement
9 Ensure that the hub and carrier mating
7 Insert a new split pin to secure the hub nut.
Removal
surfaces are clean and dry then fit the hub
If the split pin holes are not aligned, tighten
assembly. Refit the retaining nuts and tighten
the nut to align the nearest holes, temporarily
Early (pre 1992) models
them securely
insert the split pin and check to see if the
1 Remove the brake drum/disc, as described
10 Reconnect the ABS sensor wiring
washer can still be moved. If it cannot,
in Chapter 9.
connector (where necessary) and refit the
remove the split pin and back off the nut to
2 Prise off the hub grease cap, remove the
drum/disc as described in Chapter 9.
the next set of holes.
split pin and undo the hub nut
(see
8 When adjustment is correct, spread the
illustration).
legs of the split pin around the nut. Refit the
3 Pull the hub off the stub axle. Catch the
11 Rear hub bearings - renewal
grease cap, and the roadwheel is removed,
thrustwasher and the outer bearing race,
and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel bolts
which will be displaced.
if they were disturbed and refit the wheel trim.
9 If adjustment fails to cure noise or
Later (1992) models
Early (pre 1992) models
roughness, the bearings should be renewed,
4 Remove the brake drum/disc as described
1 Remove the hub assembly as described in
as described in the next Section.
in Chapter 9.
Section 10.
10
10.2 Rear hub nut split pin
10.6a Fit the outer bearing race . . .
10.6b . . . the washer and the castellated
nut
10•8 Suspension and steering
2 Prise the oil seal out of the inboard side of
the hub.
3 Extract the inner bearing race, then press or
drive the bearing outer tracks from the hub.
4 Clean out the old grease from the hub
cavity. Make sure the bearing seats are
undamaged, then press or drive the new
tracks squarely into the hub.
5 Generously grease the bearing races, the
new oil seal and the bearing tracks. Half fill the
space between the tracks with grease.
6 Fit the inner race and then the oil seal; lips
inwards. Tap the seal into place with a tube or
a piece of wood.
12.2 Rear shock absorber upper mounting
12.5 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
7 Refit the hub as described in Section 10.
- Hatchback
bolt (arrowed) - Hatchback
Later (1992 onwards) models
spanner and unscrew the top mounting nut.
12 On vehicles with the level control system,
Remove the nut, washer and rubber buffer
disconnect the pressure line from the shock
8 On later models if the bearings are worn the
(see illustration).
absorber by undoing the union nut.
complete hub assembly must be renewed; it
3 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
13 Unload the shock absorber mounting by
is not possible to renew the bearings
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
jacking up under the axle arm. Remove the
separately.
4 On vehicles with the level control system
lower mounting nut, washer and rubber buffer
disconnect the pressure line from the shock
(see illustration). Lower the jack.
12 Rear shock absorbers -
absorber by undoing the union nut.
14 Remove the top mounting bolt
(see
removal and refitting
5 Unbolt the shock absorber lower mounting
illustration) and extract the shock absorber
(see illustration). Free the shock absorber from
from its mountings.
Note: Refer to Section 17 for information on
the bracket and remove it from the vehicle.
15 Commence refitting by securing the top
the Astramax
6 Commence refitting by introducing the
end of the shock absorber, but only tighten
1 Shock absorbers should be renewed in
shock absorber to the lower mounting
the bolt loosely at first.
pairs, but they should only be removed from
bracket. Use a plastic or wooden mallet if
16 Secure the bottom mounting, making sure
one side at a time. Proceed as described
need be.
that the rubber buffers and washers are in
under the relevant sub-heading
7 Wedge the shock absorber so that the
position, and tighten the cap nut to the
lower mounting hole is aligned. Fit the lower
Hatchback and Saloon
specified torque.
mounting bolt, tapping it gently through the
17 Tighten the top mounting to the specified
2 Inside the vehicle, remove the cap from the
shock absorber eye, and tighten it to the
torque.
shock absorber top mounting. Grip the flats
specified torque.
18 Repeat the operations on the other side of
on the piston rod with pliers or a small
8 Partly lower the vehicle, guiding the top of
the vehicle, then lower it to the ground. Where
the shock absorber into position. Make sure
necessary, on completion, reconnect the
that the washer and rubber buffer for the
pressure line unions and inflate the system to
underside of the top mounting are in position.
9 Lower the vehicle to the ground. Fit the top
0.8 bar.
mounting rubber buffer and washer. Tighten
the mounting nut or nuts to achieve an
13 Rear anti-roll bar - removal
exposed piston rod length as shown (see
and refitting
illustration). Refit the cap.
10 Repeat the operations on the other side of
the vehicle. Where necessary, on completion,
Main roll bar
reconnect the pressure line unions and inflate
Removal
the system to 0.8 bar.
1 Slacken the rear wheel bolts on one side
Estate and Van
only. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
11 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
(see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) and
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
remove the roadwheel.
12.9 Rear shock absorber top mounting
setting
A Without level control
B With level control or two locknuts
12.13 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
12.14 Rear shock absorber top mounting
X = 9 mm
Y = 6 mm
- Estate
bolt (arrowed) - Estate
Suspension and steering 10•9
13 Fit the new spring and dampers. Where
conical type springs are fitted, ensure that the
upper ends are correctly located in the spring
seat (see illustration 14.8).
14 Raise the jack and reconnect the shock
absorber lower mounting on that side, then
transfer the jack to the other side and secure
the other shock absorber.
15 Tighten the shock absorber lower
mountings to the specified torque. On
completion, inflate the level control system
(where fitted) to 0.8 bar.
13.2 Rear anti-roll bar mounting nut and
13.7 Auxiliary anti-roll bar mounting - 2.
15 Rear axle assembly - removal
bolt (arrowed)
litre 16-valve models
and refitting
2 Remove the mounting nut and bolt from
3 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
both ends of the anti-roll bar
(see
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Note: Refer to Section 17 for information on
illustration).
Hatchback and Saloon
the Astramax
3 Remove the rubber damper from the centre
of the axle.
4 Unload the shock absorber mounting on
Removal
4 Remove the anti-roll bar from the side on
one side by jacking up under the axle arm. A
1 Slacken the rear wheel bolts, raise and
which the wheel was removed. If it is reluctant
tool made up to the dimensions shown is
support the rear of the vehicle (see “Jacking
to move, drive it from the other side.
useful for this (see illustration).
and Vehicle Support”) and remove the rear
5 Unbolt the shock absorber lower mounting.
Refitting
wheels.
Free the lower end of the shock absorber from
5 Refit in the reverse order to removal. Use
2 On vehicles with a level control system,
its bracket.
liquid detergent as a lubricant when fitting the
depressurise it at the filling valve.
6 Lower the jack and remove the spring and
rubber damper. Tighten the anti-roll bar
3 Disconnect the handbrake cable at the
rubber dampers. Lever the axle arm
mountings to the specified torque.
equaliser yoke and free it from the underbody
downwards slightly if necessary to remove the
guides.
spring.
Auxiliary anti-roll bar - 2.0 litre 16-
4 Unhook the rear part of the exhaust system
7 If the spring is to be renewed, it is sound
valve models
from its rubber mountings.
policy to renew the rubber dampers also.
5 Disconnect the brake flexible hose at the
Removal
8 Insert the new spring and dampers, raise
rear axle brackets. Plug or cap the hoses to
6 Raise and support the rear of the car (see
the axle arm and make fast the shock
reduce fluid spillage.
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
absorber lower mounting. Where conical type
6 On Estate and Van models, unbolt the
7 Remove the two nuts and bolts from each
springs are fitted, ensure that the upper ends
brake pressure regulating valve spring
end of the anti-roll bar (see illustration).
are correctly located in the spring seat (see
illustration).
bracket.
Refitting
7 Remove the rear springs, as described in
9 Repeat the operations on the other side of
8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
the vehicle. On completion, inflate the level
Section 14.
procedure. Tighten the fastenings to the
control system (where fitted) to 0.8 bar.
8 Support the centre of the rear axle with a
specified torque.
jack and a block of wood or a cradle. Unhook
Estate and Van
the axle arm mountings from the underbody
10 Jack up under one axle arm and unbolt
(see illustration) and lower the jack. An
14 Rear springs - removal and
the shock absorber lower mounting. Lower
assistant should steady the assembly whilst it
refitting
the jack and repeat the operation on the other
is being unbolted and lowered.
side, leaving the jack in place.
9 Pass the handbrake cable over the exhaust
Note: Refer to Section 17 for information on
11 Remove the springs and lower dampers,
system and remove the axle assembly.
the Astramax
lowering the jack as necessary.
10 Strip the axle of brake components, hubs,
1 Rear springs should be renewed in pairs.
12 If renewing the sprung upper dampers,
anti-roll bar etc, if needed for transfer to a new
2 On vehicles with a level control system,
glue them in position with impact adhesive to
axle. Refer to the appropriate Chapters and
depressurise it at the filling valve.
aid fitting.
Sections for details.
10
14.4 Rear axle arm jacking adapter. All
14.8 Correct location of upper end of
15.8 Axle arm mounting nut and bolt
dimensions in mm; diameter A to suit jack
spring (arrowed) - conical type shown
(arrowed)
10•10 Suspension and steering
Refitting
11 With the aid of an assistant, offer the new
axle to the vehicle, remembering to pass the
handbrake cable over the exhaust system.
Insert the axle arm mounting bolts, but do not
tighten them yet.
12 Fit the springs and secure the shock
absorbers, as described in Section 14.
13 Reconnect the brake flexible hoses, then
bleed the hydraulic system (Chapter 9).
14 On Estate and Van models, secure the
brake pressure regulating valve spring
bracket, as described in Chapter 9.
15 Secure the exhaust system to its
16.8 Cranked link used to support axle arm
16.10 Correct orientation of rear axle arm
mountings.
bush
16 Secure the handbrake cable to its guides
and to the yoke.
2 Depressurise the level control system,
careful not to knock the axle off the jack:
17 Adjust the rear wheel bearings, as
when fitted.
provide additional supports if possible.
described in Section 9.
3 Remove the rear springs, as described in
9 Draw the old bush out from the inboard
18 Adjust the brakes by making at least 10
Section 14, then reattach the shock absorber
side to the outboard, using suitable tubes,
applications of the brake pedal, then adjust
lower mountings.
bolts and washers. (The maker’s special tool
the handbrake, as described in Chapter 1.
4 On Estate and Van models, unbolt the brake
set for this job, consisting of the tubes etc
19 Fit the roadwheels, lower the vehicle and
pressure regulating valve spring bracket.
plus the cranked link, is numbered
tighten the wheel bolts.
5 Unclip the brake flexible hose from the
KM-452-A). Removal of the bush will be easier
20 Load the vehicle by having two assistants
brackets on the underbody. If care is taken
if the axle arm around it is heated to 50° to
sit in the front seats, then tighten the axle arm
there is no need to disconnect the hoses.
70°C using hot air, steam or a soldering iron.
mounting bolts to the specified torque.
6 Support the axle centrally with a hydraulic
Do not use a naked flame: the fuel tank is not
21 When a level control system is fitted,
jack and a block of wood or a cradle.
far away.
inflate it to 0.8 bar.
7 Remove the axle arm mounting bolts and
10 Coat the new bush with liquid detergent
carefully lower the axle until the bushes are
and draw it into place, observing the correct
16 Rear axle mounting bushes
accessible. Bend the brake pipes slightly if
orientation, until the flange rests against the
- renewal
necessary to avoid straining the flexible hoses.
edge of the axle arm (see illustration).
8 Cut or chisel the flange from the outboard
11 Repeat the operations on the other side of
face of one bush. In order to restrain the axle
the vehicle.
1 The mounting bushes must always be
from moving during this operation, the makers
12 Raise and secure the axle, but do not
renewed in pairs. Without doubt the
specify the use of a cranked link, one end of
tighten the axle arm bolts yet.
opportunity should be taken to renew them if
which bolts to the axle arm mounting, the
13 Secure the brake flexible hose to their
the axle is removed for some other reason.
other end carrying a pin which locates in the
brackets.
They can be renewed with the axle in situ as
inner side of the bush (see illustration). Be
14 Refit the springs (Section 14).
follows.
15 On Estate and Van models, refit the
pressure regulating valve spring bracket, as
described in Chapter 9, Section 15.
16 Lower the vehicle onto its wheels, have
two assistants sit in the front seats and
tighten the axle arm mounting bolts to the
specified torque.
17 When fitted, pressurise the level control
system to 0.8 bar.
17 Leaf spring rear suspension
components (Astramax) -
removal and refitting
Rear shock absorber
1 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
(see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) (see
illustration).
17.1 Exploded view of Astramax rear
suspension
1 Bump stop
5 Leaf spring
2 Bushes
6 U-bolt
3 Shackle
7 Shock absorber
4 Tensioning pin
8 Bump stop cup
Suspension and steering 10•11
2 Unload the shock absorber mounting by
jack and a block of wood or a cradle.
4 Maintenance consists of checking the
jacking up under the axle arm.
24 Remove the shock absorber lower
pressure lines and unions for security and
3 Slacken and remove the upper and lower
mounting bolts on both sides.
good condition.
mounting bolts and remove the shock
25 Remove the bump stop cups from both
absorber from the vehicle.
sides. They are each secured by a single nut
19 Steering wheel - removal and
4 Refitting is the reverse of removal,
and washer.
refitting
tightening the shock absorber bolts to the
26 Unscrew the U-bolt nuts on one side of
specified torque.
the axle. Remove the tensioning plate and the
5 Repeat the operations on the other side of
U-bolts.
Removal
the vehicle, then lower it to the ground.
27 Repeat the procedure on the other side.
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
Note: The axle may tip to one side or the other
Rear leaf spring
2 Prise off the central cap from the steering
if it is not centrally supported.
wheel. Disconnect the horn contact wires and
6 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
28 Lower the jack and remove the axle from
remove the cap (see illustration).
securely. Support the rear axle with another
the vehicle.
3 Set the steering in the straight-ahead
jack.
29 Strip off the hubs, brake components etc
position.
7 Remove the handbrake cable bracket from
if needed for transfer to another axle.
4 Relieve the locktabs and undo the central
the spring.
30 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
retaining nut (see illustration).
8 Disconnect the brake pressure regulating
procedure, noting the following points:
5 Depending on the work to be done, it may
valve spring from the leaf spring.
a) The hole in the tensioning plate for the
ease refitting to mark the relationship of the
9 Unbolt the front leaf spring-to-body
bump stop cup locating lug must be
wheel centre to the shaft splines.
attachment and remove the bolt.
towards the centre of the vehicle.
6 Pull the wheel off the shaft splines. If pulling
10 Unbolt the rear spring-to-shackle
b) The exposed lengths of thread on the
by hand, be careful not to injure yourself if the
attachment and remove the bolt.
U-bolts must not differ by more than 3
wheel suddenly comes free. Use a puller if it is
11 Remove the bump stop nut and washer,
mm.
tight. Do not use a hammer: damage to the
and the cup itself.
c) Tighten all fastenings to the specified
column may result.
12 Unscrew the U-bolt nuts. Remove the
torque.
7 If wished, the horn contact ring can now be
tensioning plate and the U-bolts.
d) Bleed the brake hydraulic system and
unclipped. Note that the direction indicator
13 Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle.
adjust the handbrake on completion.
return segment on the ring points to the left.
14 If the spring is being renewed, transfer the
brake pressure regulating valve spring bracket
18 Level control system -
Refitting
to the new spring.
description and maintenance
8 Before refitting, make sure that the washer
15 To renew the spring bushes, press or
and spring are in place on the shaft. Fit the
drive out the old bushes and press in the new
1 On vehicles equipped with this system ride
steering wheel onto the splines, making sure it
ones using a long bolt, some tubing and
height can be controlled by pressurising the
is correctly aligned.
washers. Coat the new bushes with liquid
9 Fit a new lockwasher and refit the nut.
rear shock absorbers with air. The shock
detergent as an assembly lubricant.
absorbers are connected to each other, and
Tighten the nut to the specified torque and
16 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
bend up the lockwasher tabs.
to the filling valve, by a high pressure pipeline.
procedure, noting the following points:
The filling valve is similar to a tyre inflation
10 Reconnect the horn contact wires and
a) The shorter section of the spring faces the
press the central cap into place.
valve; it is located on the right-hand side of
front of the vehicle.
11 Reconnect the battery earth lead.
the load area.
b) The hole in the tensioning plate for the
2 For normal (unladen) running, the system
bump stop cup locating lug must be
should be pressurised to 0.8 bar. Before
20 Steering column - removal
towards the centre of the vehicle.
loading the vehicle, measure the ride height
and refitting
c) The exposed lengths of thread on the
between the rear bumper and the ground.
U-bolts must not differ by more than 3
After loading, restore the ride height by
mm.
increasing the system pressure using tyre
Removal
d) Adjust the position of the brake pressure
inflation equipment. Do not exceed 5 bar.
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
regulating valve spring bracket so that the
3 Do not drive the vehicle unladen with a high
2 Although not strictly necessary, access will
spring is neither tight nor slack.
pressure in the system, nor inflate the system
be improved if the steering wheel is removed.
Bump stop
to the maximum pressure before loading.
See Section 19.
17 Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
18 Unscrew the bump stop bolt and remove
the bump stop.
19 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
10
Rear axle
20 Slacken the rear wheel bolts, raise and
support the rear of the vehicle and remove the
rear wheels.
21 Remove the brake drums/discs and
disconnect the handbrake cable (Chapter 9).
22 Disconnect the brake flexible hoses at the
bracket on the axle. Plug or cap the open
19.2 Removing the steering wheel central
19.4 Steering wheel retaining nut and
unions.
cap
locktabs (arrowed)
23 Support the centre of the rear axle with a
10•12 Suspension and steering
6 Fit the coupling in such a position that the
column clamp bolt will be horizontal and on
top.
7 Push downwards on the coupling and
tighten the pinion side clamp bolt to the
specified torque.
8 Tighten the steering gear mountings to the
specified torque.
9 Pull the steering shaft upwards as far as it
will go and tighten the clamp bolt to the
specified torque.
10 Make sure that the roadwheels and the
steering wheel are still in the straight-ahead
20.3a Removing an upper shroud securing
20.3b Removing a lower shroud securing
position.
screw
screw adjustable wheel
3 Remove the upper and lower switch
tightened until its head breaks off. The new
23 Steering lock cylinder and
shrouds. These are secured by eight screws
self-locking nut should be tightened to the
ignition switch wiring block
with the fixed steering wheel, or five screws
specified torque.
- removal and refitting
with the adjustable wheel (see illustrations).
15 Pull the shaft upwards as far as it will go
4 Remove the steering lock cylinder, as
and tighten the flexible coupling clamp bolt to
1 To renew either the ignition switch or the
described in Section 23.
the specified torque.
steering lock cylinder, first remove the lower
5 Disconnect the ignition switch multi-plug.
16 Prise out the plastic washer from the base
half of the steering column shroud by undoing
6 Remove the multi-function switches by
of the column tube. It can stay on the shaft.
and removing the securing screws.
depressing their retaining clips. With the
17 Reconnect the ignition switch and refit the
Disconnect the battery negative terminal and
adjustable wheel it may be necessary to undo
multi-function switches.
proceed as described under the relevant sub-
the switch housing screws and draw the
18 Refit the remaining components in the
heading.
housing away from the dashboard to provide
reverse order to removal.
sufficient clearance.
Ignition switch wiring block
7 Make sure that the steering is in the
2 Disconnect the wiring block from the
straight-ahead position, then remove the
21 Steering column - overhaul
ignition switch.
flexible coupling clamp bolt from the base of
3 Slacken the two small retaining screws and
the column. Unbolt the column support from
withdraw the wiring block from the end of the
The steering column incorporates a
the bulkhead and recover the washer.
lock housing.
8 Remove the column upper mounting
telescopic safety feature. In the event of a
4 Refitting is the reverse of removal, ensuring
front end crash, the shaft housing collapses
bracket nut and bolt. The bolt is of the
that the switch centre is correctly engaged
shear-head type: drill it and extract it with a
and prevents the steering wheel injuring the
with the lock cylinder rod flats.
driver. Before refitting the steering column
proprietary stud extractor, or it may be
possible to unscrew the bolt by driving its
examine the column and mountings for signs
Steering lock cylinder
of damage and deformation and check the
head round with a chisel or punch. The nut is
5 Disconnect the battery earth lead and, after
a self-locking type and should be renewed.
steering shaft for signs of free play in the
removing the lower half of the steering column
column bushes. If there are signs of damage
9 Withdraw the column slightly to free it from
shroud, insert the ignition key and turn it to
the flexible coupling, then remove it from the
or play, the column must be renewed.
the “II” position.
Overhaul of the column is possible but this is
vehicle. Avoid knocking or dropping it as this
6 Using a piece of wire or a drill shank (3 mm
could damage the collapsible section.
a fiddly task and should be entrusted to a
dia), depress the lock spring retaining the
Vauxhall/Opel
dealer.
Consult your
10 If a new column assembly is to be fitted, a
cylinder and carefully withdraw the cylinder
large plastic washer will be found at the base
Vauxhall/Opel dealer for further information.
from its housing
(see illustration). It is
of the column tube. This is to centre the shaft
important that the ignition switch is not
in the tube and should be removed when
22 Steering column flexible
removed or disturbed while the lock cylinder
fitting is complete.
is not fitted.
coupling - removal and refitting
7 Before fitting a new lock cylinder insert the
Refitting
ignition key and turn it to the “II” position.
11 Commence refitting by making sure that
Removal
Insert the assembly into the steering lock
the roadwheels are still in the straight-ahead
1 Position the steering in the straight-ahead
position, and that the flexible coupling is
position
positioned so that the column clamp bolt will
2 Slacken the steering rack mountings on the
be horizontal and on top.
bulkhead.
12 Offer the column assembly to its
3 Remove both clamp bolts from the
mountings, inserting the base of the shaft into
coupling.
the coupling. Insert the mounting nuts and
4 Push the coupling upwards, remove it from
bolts, but only tighten them finger tight at this
the pinion shaft, tilt it and withdraw it from the
stage. Do not try to force the column into
column shaft.
position or damage may result.
13 Tighten the column bulkhead support bolt
Refitting
to the specified torque. Make sure the washer
5 Before refitting, make sure that the
is in place.
roadwheels are still in the straight-ahead
14 Tighten the upper mounting bracket
position and that the steering wheel spokes
23.6 Releasing the steering lock detent
fastenings: the shear-head bolt should be
are centred and pointing downwards.
spring with an Allen key (arrowed)
Suspension and steering 10•13
7 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle and
2 Remove the securing nut at the moving end
tighten the wheel bolts.
of the damper (see illustration). Recover the
8 Check the front wheel alignment and adjust
washer.
if necessary. No harm will result from driving
3 Unbolt the damper from the bracket at the
the vehicle a short distance to have the
pinion end and remove It.
alignment checked.
Refitting
4 When refitting, secure the pinion end of the
25 Steering rack bellows -
damper first and tighten its mounting bolt to
removal and refitting
the specified torque.
5 Tighten the securing nut at the moving end
Removal
of the damper to obtain a dimension A as
shown (see illustration).
1 Remove the steering gear, as described in
24.2 Tie-rod balljoint separator in use It is
Section 27.
better practice to leave the balljoint nut
2 Remove the mounting bracket and rubber
27 Steering gear - removal and
loosely fitted
insulator from the end of the rack furthest
refitting
housing and press it down until the retaining
from the pinion.
spring engages before removing the key.
3 On power-assisted racks, disconnect the
8 Reconnect the battery earth lead and test
hydraulic pipe union adjacent to the end of
Manual steering
the operation of the ignition switch before
the bellows.
Removal
fitting the lower half shroud.
4 Remove the clamping wires and slide both
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
bellows and the connecting tube off the rack.
2 On carburettor models only, remove the air
24 Tie-rod balljoints - removal
Separate the bellows from the tube.
cleaner, as described in Chapter 3.
and refitting
Refitting
3 On models with a headlamp washer
5 Fit the new bellows and the tube to the
system, release the fluid reservoir and move it
Removal
rack. Secure the bellows with new wire clips,
to one side.
positioned so that when the rack is in the car
4 Remove both tie-rod bolts from the centre
1 Remove the roadwheel on the side
the ends of the clips will point upwards. Make
of the rack (see illustration). Recover the bolt
concerned.
sure that the bellows are not twisted.
locks, the spacer plate and the washers.
2 Slacken the balljoint nut, release the
6 On power-assisted only, reconnect the
5 If a steering damper is fitted, unbolt it at the
ball-pin using a balljoint separator and remove
hydraulic pipe union using new sealing rings.
pinion end and remove it, complete with the
the nut. Extract the balljoint from the steering
Tighten the union to the specified torque.
moving end tube and bracket.
arm (see illustration).
7 Refit the rubber insulator and mounting
3 Slacken the clamp bolt which secures the
6 Set the steering in the straight-ahead
bracket. The concave end of the mounting
balljoint to the threaded adjustment pin. Mark
position.
bracket flange must point downwards when
the position of the balljoint on the adjustment
7 Slacken both clamp bolts on the flexible
the rack is fitted.
pin with paint or tape, then unscrew the
coupling. Push the coupling upwards as far as
8 If the pinion sealing cap has been
balljoint from the pin.
it will go.
disturbed, make sure it is refitted with its
4 Note that the balljoints are handed. The
8 Remove the front right-hand wheel.
notch engaged with the rib on the pinion
right-hand balljoint is marked R; the left-hand
9 Unbolt the steering gear mounting brackets
housing.
balljoint has no marking.
from the bulkhead. Make sure that the pinion
9 Refit the steering gear (Section 27).
is free of the coupling, then withdraw the
Refitting
steering gear through the wheel arch.
5 Screw in the new balljoint onto the
26 Steering damper - removal
Refitting
adjustment pin to approximately the same
and refitting
position as was occupied by the old one.
10 Commence refitting by fastening the
Secure it with the clamp bolt.
steering gear to the bulkhead. Tighten the
6 Connect the balljoint to the steering arm.
Removal
mounting bracket bolts to the specified
Secure it with a new self-locking nut,
1 When fitted, the steering damper is
torque. Use new self-locking nuts on the
tightened to the specified torque.
removed as follows.
mounting studs.
10
26.2 Steering damper securing nut
26.5 Steering damper securing nut setting
27.4 Tie-rod connection to steering rack
(arrowed)
A = 6 mm
10•14 Suspension and steering
27.11 Steering gear centralising diagram
A = 325 mm
11 Before connecting the flexible coupling
2 On models equipped with power-assisted
until the fluid level stabilises. It is important
make sure the steering gear is in the
steering inspect all the steering gear fluid
that the pump is not allowed to run dry.
straight-ahead position (see illustration).
unions for signs of leakage and check that all
4 With the engine running at idle speed, turn
12 Reconnect the flexible coupling as
union nuts are securely tightened.
the steering wheel approximately 45° to left
described in Section 6.
3 Inspect the rubber mountings and pinion
and right of centre, then from lock to lock. Do
13 Reconnect the tie-rods to the rack,
gear cover renew them if the rubbers shown
not hold the wheel on either lock, as this
remembering to fit the washers under the rod
signs of wear or deterioration.
improves some strain on the hydraulic
ends. (Note that the tie-rods are handed: they
system.
are fitted correctly when their clamp bolts are
5 Switch off the engine and correct the fluid
29 Power-assisted steering
fitted from below). Fit the spacer plate or
level.
- bleeding
damper bracket and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque, using new lockplates.
30 Power steering pump
1 After any of the hydraulic unions has been
14 Refit the remaining components in the
disturbed, or if the fluid level has been allowed
- removal and refitting
reverse order to removal.
to fall so low that air has been introduced into
Power steering
the system, bleeding should be carried out as
Removal
follows.
Removal
2 Top-up the reservoir with fresh clean fluid
1 Remove the pump drivebelt, as described
15 Refer to paragraphs
1 to
9, but
of the specified type. Fluid drained from the
in Chapter 1.
system must not be re-used.
2 Disconnect the fluid feed and return hoses
additionally the flow and return pipes must be
disconnected from the pinion housing. Allow
3 If the pump is dry, start the engine
from the pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
momentarily and then switch it off. Top-up the
Plug the openings; being careful not to
the fluid to drain from the open unions, then
reservoir to the lower mark on the dipstick, run
introduce dirt.
plug the holes to keep dirt out. Introduction of
the engine briefly again and repeat the process
3 Unbolt and remove the pump
(see
dirt may seriously damage the hydraulic
illustration).
system.
4 A defective pump must be renewed: no
Refitting
spares are available.
16 Refer to paragraphs 10 to 14. Top-up and
Refitting
bleed the system on completion, as described
in Section 29.
5 Refit in the reverse order to removal. Tension
the drivebelt, as described in Chapter 1, before
tightening the pump mountings.
28 Steering gear - overhaul
6 Bleed the system, as described in Section 29.
Pay particular attention to the procedure
required to prime the pump if a new pump has
1 Examine the steering gear assembly for
been fitted.
signs of wear or damage and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length of
31 Power steering fluid reservoir
its travel with no signs of roughness or
- removal and refitting
excessive free play between the steering gear
pinion and rack. It is possible to overhaul the
steering gear assembly housing components
Removal
but this task should be entrusted to a Vauxhall
30.3 Steering pump mountings
1 Slacken the reservoir clamp bolt.
dealer. The only components which can be
2 Disconnect both hoses from the reservoir.
renewed easily by the home mechanic are the
A Pump pivot bolts
Be prepared for fluid spillage. Remove the
steering gear bellows and the tie-rod ends
B Tensioner strap pivot bolt
reservoir.
which are covered elsewhere in this Chapter.
C Tensioner strap mounting bolt
Suspension and steering 10•15
Refitting
rear of the vehicle at its upper end.
described, with the car stationary. The second
Steering axis inclination is the angle,
type, known as a scuff plate, measures the
3 Refit in the reverse order to removal. Bleed
when viewed from the front or rear of the
actual position of the contact surface of the
the system on completion, as described in
vehicle, between the vertical and an imaginary
tyre, in relation to the road surface, with the
Section 29.
line drawn between the upper and lower front
vehicle in motion. This is done by pushing or
suspension strut mountings.
driving the front tyre over a plate which then
32 Wheel alignment and steering
Toe setting is the amount by which the
moves slightly according to the scuff of the
angles - general information
distance between the front inside edges of the
tyre and shows this movement on a scale.
roadwheel differs from that between the rear
Both types have their advantages and
Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
inside edges, when measured at hub height. If
disadvantages, but either can give
for precise steering and handling, and for
the distance between the front edges is less
satisfactory results if used correctly and
even tyre wear. Before carrying out any
than that at the rear, the wheels are said to
checking or adjusting operations, make sure
toe-in. If it is greater than at the rear, the
carefully.
that the tyres are correctly inflated, that all
wheels toe-out.
Many tyre specialists will also check toe
steering and suspension joints and linkages
Camber, castor and steering axis inclination
settings free or for a nominal charge.
are in sound condition and that the wheels are
are set during manufacture and are not
Make sure that the steering is in the
not buckled or distorted, particularly around
adjustable. Unless the vehicle has suffered
straight-ahead position when making
the rims. It will also be necessary to have the
accident damage, or there is gross wear in the
measurements.
car positioned on flat level ground with
suspension mountings or joints, it can be
If adjustment is found to be necessary,
enough space to push the car backwards and
assumed that these settings are correct. If for
clean the ends of the tie-rods in the area of
forwards through about half its length.
any reason it is believed that they are not
the adjustment pin and clamp bolts.
Front wheel alignment consists of four
correct, the task of checking them should be
Slacken the clamp bolts (one on each
factors:
left to a GM dealer who will have the
tie-rod balljoint and one on each tie-rod) and
Camber is the angle at which the
necessary special equipment needed to
turn the adjustment pin on each tie-rod by the
roadwheels are set from the vertical when
measure the small angles involved.
same amount in the same direction (see
viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle.
It is, however, within the scope of the home
illustration). Only turn each pin by a quarter
Positive camber is the angle (in degrees) that
mechanic to check and adjust the front wheel
turn at a time before rechecking.
the wheels are tilted outwards at the top from
toe setting. To do this a tracking gauge must
the vertical.
first be obtained. Two types of gauges are
When adjustment is correct, tighten the
Castor is the angle between the steering
available and can be obtained from motor
clamp bolts to the specified torque. Check
axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
accessory shops. The first type measures the
that the tie-rod lengths are equal to within 5
side of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicated
distance between the front and rear inside
mm and that the steering wheel spokes are in
when the steering axis is inclined towards the
edges of the roadwheels, as previously
the correct straight-ahead position.
10
32.8 Toe adjustment points (only one side shown)
A Clamp bolts
B Adjustment pin
11•1
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Bonnet - removal and refitting
6
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe
2
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting
7
Maintenance- hinges and locks
6
Boot lid and torsion rods - removal and refitting
25
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets
3
Boot lid lock components - removal and refitting
26
Major body damage - repair
5
Centre console - removal and refitting
35
Minor body damage - repair
4
Door - removal and refitting
13
Rear quarterlight (opening type) - removal and refitting
28
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting
15
Rear quarterlight (opening type) weatherstrip - renewal
29
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting
12
Rear seat - removal and refitting
33
Door lock - removal and refitting
14
Rear trim panel - removal and refitting
9
Door remote control handle - removal and refitting
16
Seat belts - general
37
Door window - removal and refitting
19
Sunroof - operation and maintenance
38
Exterior rear view mirror components - removal and refitting
30
Tailgate - removal and refitting
20
Front door lock cylinder - removal and refitting
17
Tailgate hinge - removal and refitting
21
Front seat - removal and refitting
31
Tailgate lock - removal and refitting
23
Front trim panel - removal and refitting
8
Tailgate lock cylinder - removal and refitting
24
Front wing - removal and refitting
10
Tailgate strut - removal and refitting
22
General information
1
Wind deflector - removal and refitting
11
Glovebox - removal and refitting
36
Window lifting mechanism - removal and refitting
18
Head restraints - removal and refitting
32
Windscreen and other fixed glass - removal and refitting
27
Luggage area trim panel removal - general information
34
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
Fairly easy, suitable
Fairly difficult,
Difficult, suitable for
Very difficult,
novice with little
for beginner with
suitable for competent
experienced DIY
suitable for expert
experience
some experience
DIY mechanic
mechanic
DIY or professional
Specifications
Torque wrench settings
Nm
lbf ft
Bonnet hinges
20
15
Tailgate hinges
20
15
Tailgate lock striker
20
15
Front and rear trim panel nuts
12
9
Tailgate strut attachments
20
15
Seat belt mountings
35
25
Rear crossmember-to- lock bolts
55
43
Rear body panel-to-lock bolts
20
15
Front seat mountings
20
15
Front seat back-to-frame bolts
30
22
2 The basic maintenance routine for the
2 Maintenance - bodywork and
bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of
1 General information
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
underframe
loose solids which may have stuck to the
The main body structure is a welded
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
1 The general condition of a vehicle’s
construction of individually shaped panels
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
which make up a ‘monocoque’ bodyshell,
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
without a separate chassis. Various areas are
need washing in the same way to remove any
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
strengthened to provide for suspension,
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
11
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
steering and engine attachments and load
and tend to encourage rust. Strange as it may
distribution. The whole shell is very strong and
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
seem, the best time to clean the underframe
rigid for its weight.
important also to keep watch on those parts
and wheel arches is in wet weather when the
The front wings are bolted in position and
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
can be renewed without special equipment.
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
weather the underframe is usually cleaned of
Interior fittings are of an extremely high
arches and the lower part of the engine
large accumulations automatically and this is
standard, even on basic models.
compartment.
a good time for inspection.
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
3 Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
8 The use of automatic car washes is not
and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax
based underbody protective coating, it is a
recommended for convertible models, as
polish. Rinse the area with clean water.
good idea to have the whole of the
there is a risk of introducing water between
2 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
underframe of the vehicle steam cleaned,
the layers of the hood fabric.
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
engine compartment included, so that a
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
scratch is level with the surrounding
3 Maintenance - upholstery and
what minor repairs and renovations are
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
necessary. Steam cleaning is available at
carpets
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
many garages and is necessary for removal of
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
the accumulation of oily grime which
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of
cutting paste
certain areas. If steam cleaning facilities are
grit. If they are badly stained remove them
3 Where the scratch has penetrated right
not available, there are one or two excellent
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging and
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
grease solvents available which can be brush
make quite sure they are dry before refitting.
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
applied. The dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Seats and interior trim panels can be kept
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
Note that these methods should not be used
clean by wiping with a damp cloth and a
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
proprietry car interior wax polish. If they do
apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the
protective coating or the coating will be
become stained (which can be more apparent
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
on light coloured upholstery) use a little liquid
or nylon applicator fill the scratch with
annually, preferably just prior to winter, when
detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
the underbody should be washed down and
grime out of the grain of the material. Do not
be mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide a
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
forget to keep the headlining clean in the same
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
way as the upholstery. When using liquid
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
applied. It would also be worth considering
cleaners inside the vehicle do not over-wet the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
the use of such wax-based protection for
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
could get into the seams and padded interior
finger in cellulose thinners and quickly sweep
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If
damage where such protection is not
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally it
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out
4 After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
properly, particularly where carpets are
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
scratch can now be painted over as described
involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish,
earlier in this Section.
inside the vehicle for this purpose.
will give added protection against chemical
Repairs of dents in bodywork
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
4 When deep denting of the vehicle’s
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
4 Minor body damage - repair
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
combination to restore the brilliance of this
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
almost attains its original shape. There is little
dulling is usually caused because regular
Note: For more detailed information about
point in trying to restore the original shape
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
bodywork repair, the Haynes Publishing
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
Group publish a book by Lindsay Porter called
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
non abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
The Car Bodywork Repair Manual. This
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
incorporates information on such aspects as
to bring the level of the dent up to a point
the door and sill drain holes and pipes are
rust treatment, painting and glass-fibre
which is about 3 mm below the level of the
completely clear so that water can be drained
repairs, as well as details on more ambitious
surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
out (see illustrations). Bright work should be
repairs involving welding and panel beating.
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
treated in the same way as paint work.
Repairs of minor scratches in
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
bodywork
of the smeary film which often appears, by the
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
use of a proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
1 If the scratch is very superficial, and does not
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold
any form of wax or other body or chromium
penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is
a suitable block of wood firmly against the
polish on glass.
very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch
outside of the panel to absorb the impact from
with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting
Convertible
the hammer blows and thus prevent a large
paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch
area of the bodywork from being `belled-out’.
5 A manual or electrically operated hood is
fitted to Convertible models. Maintenance of
the hood and its operating mechanism is
minimal, but the following points should be
noted to ensure that the hood has a long life
and is satisfactory in operation.
6 Before lowering the hood, make sure it is
clean and dry and that the heated rear
window is switched off. (Operating the heated
rear window whilst the hood is lowered can
cause permanent damage.)
7 Clean the hood regularly, using a soft
brush, warm water and a mild detergent. Do
not use strong detergents or solvents.
Stubborn stains can be removed with special
2.4a Door drain holes
2.4b Clearing a sill drain hole
products designed for cleaning plastics.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
5 Should the dent be in a section of the
13 Aluminium tape should be used for small
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
bodywork which has a double skin or some
or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll
surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is
other factor making it inaccessible from
and trim it to the approximate size and shape
used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
required, then pull off the backing paper (if
to form a really thin paste which is ideal for
several small holes through the metal inside
used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can
filling small holes. Repeat this spray and
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
repair procedure until you are satisfied that
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
the surface of the filler, and the feathered
holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
edge of the paintwork are perfect. Clean the
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
repair area with clean water and allow to dry
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
attached to the metal underneath.
fully.
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
20 The repair area is now ready for final
Bodywork repairs - filling and
6 The next stage of the repair is the removal
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
respraying
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
an inch or so of the surrounding `sound’
14 Before using this Section, see the
atmosphere. This condition can be created
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
and gash repairs.
working area, but if you are forced to work in
power drill, although it can be done just as
15 Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
the open, you will have to pick your day very
effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive
generally speaking those proprietary kits
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
the floor in the work area with water will help
score the surface of the bare metal with a
resin hardener are best for this type of repair
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
which can be used directly from the tube. A
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
area. This will provide a really good `key’ for
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
the filler paste.
well contoured finish to the surface of the
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
7 To complete the repair see the Section on
filler.
fittings (eg. trim strips, door handles etc) will
filling and respraying.
16 Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of
also need to be masked off. Use genuine
card or board
- measure the hardener
masking tape and several thicknesses of
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in
carefully (follow the maker’s instructions on
newspaper for the masking operations.
bodywork
the pack) otherwise the filler will set too
21 Before commencing to spray, agitate the
8 Remove all paint from the affected area and
rapidly or too slowly. Alternatively, a no-mix
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
from an inch or so of the surrounding `sound’
brand can be used straight from the tube
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
without mixing, but daylight is required to cure
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
brush on a power drill. If these are not
it. Using the applicator apply the filler paste to
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
available a few sheets of abrasive paper will
the prepared area; draw the applicator across
up using several thin layers of paint rather
do the job most effectively. With the paint
the surface of the filler to achieve the correct
than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-
removed you will be able to judge the severity
contour and to level the surface. As soon as a
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
of the corrosion and therefore decide whether
contour that approximates to the correct one
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
is achieved, stop working the paste - if you
work area should be thoroughly doused with
to repair the affected area. New body panels
carry on too long the paste will become sticky
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
are not as expensive as most people think
and begin to `pick-up’ on the applicator.
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory
Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at
on more paint.
to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair
twenty minute intervals until the level of the
22 Spray on the top coat, again building up
large areas of corrosion.
filler is just proud of the surrounding
the thickness by using several thin layers of
9 Remove all fittings from the affected area
bodywork.
paint. Start spraying in the centre of the repair
except those which will act as a guide to the
17 Once the filler has hardened, excess can
area and then, using a circular motion, work
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg.
be removed using a metal plane or file. From
outwards until the whole repair area and
headlights etc). Then, using tin snips or a
then on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
about 2 inches of the surrounding original
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
paper should be used, starting with a 40
paintwork is covered. Remove all masking
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
grade production paper and finishing with a
material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order
400 grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the final coat of paint.
to create a slight depression for the filler paste.
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
23 Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
10 Wire brush the affected area to remove
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
the powdery rust from the surface of the
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
very fine cutting paste to the edges of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paint. Finally, apply wax polish.
rust inhibiting paint if the back of the rusted
area is accessible treat this also.
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
Plastic components
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
11 Before filling can take place it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
24 With the use of more and more plastic
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
18 At this stage the
`dent’ should be
body components by the vehicle
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
manufacturers (eg. bumpers, spoilers, and in
12 Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibre
turn should be encircled by the finely
some cases major body panels), rectification
matting is probably the best material to use
`feathered’ edge of the good paintwork. Rinse
of more serious damage to such items has
11
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
the repair area with clean water, until all of the
become a matter of either entrusting repair
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
dust produced by the rubbing-down
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
operation has gone.
complete components. Repair of such
edges are below the level of the surrounding
19 Spray the whole area with a light coat of
damage by the DIY owner is not really feasible
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
primer, - this will show up any imperfections in
owing to the cost of the equipment and
several blobs of filler paste around its
the surface of the filler. Repair these
materials required for effecting such repairs.
periphery.
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
The basic technique involves making a groove
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
along the line of the crack in the plastic using
a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged
part is then welded back together by using a
hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler
rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then
removed and the area rubbed down to a
smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of
the correct plastic is used, as body
components can be made of a variety of
different types
(eg. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
25 Damage of a less serious nature
(abrasions, minor cracks etc) can be repaired
by the DIY owner using a two-part epoxy filler
6.3 Removing a bonnet hinge bolt
6.6 Bonnet lock striker adjustment
repair material, or a no-mix filler which can be
used directly from the tube. Once mixed in
1 Striker
4 Locknut
equal proportions (or applied directly from the
2 Washer
X = 40 to 45 mm
tube in the case of a no-mix filler), this is used
6 Bonnet - removal and refitting
3 Coil spring
in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used
slide, using a screwdriver against the spring
on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in
tension.
twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding
Removal
3 Inside the car, free the cable from the
and painting.
release lever and bracket.
26 If the owner is renewing a complete
1 Open and prop the bonnet.
4 Release the grommet from the bulkhead
component himself, or if he has repaired it
2 When an under-bonnet light is fitted,
and withdraw the cable from under the
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
disconnect its electrical lead.
bonnet.
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
3 Mark around the hinge bolts with a soft lead
which is compatible with the type of plastic
pencil as a guide for refitting. Have an
Refitting
used. At one time the use of a universal paint
assistant support the bonnet, then remove the
5 Fit the new cable in the reverse order to
was not possible owing to the complex range
hinge bolts from each side (see illustration).
removal. Adjust the position of the cable
of plastics encountered in body component
4 Lift away the bonnet. If it is to be re-used,
under the front panel clip so that, with the
applications. Standard paints, generally
rest it carefully on rags or cardboard. If a new
release lever at rest, the inner cable is just
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
bonnet is to be fitted, transfer serviceable
slack. Check that the release slide moves
satisfactorily, but a professional spraymatch
items (rubber buffers, lock striker etc) to it.
when an assistant operates the release lever,
paints to match any plastic or rubber finish
Refitting
then close the bonnet and check for correct
can be obtained from dealers. However, it is
operation.
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
5 Refit in the reverse order to removal, using
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
the hinge bolt alignment marks for guidance
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
when applicable.
8 Front trim panel - removal and
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
6 If the lock striker was disturbed, adjust it to
refitting
kit, but basically the method of use is to first
the dimension shown before tightening its
apply the pre-primer to the component
locknut (see illustration).
concerned and allow it to dry for up to 30
7 Adjust the hinge bolts and front buffers until
Removal
minutes. Then the primer is applied and left to
a good fit is obtained with the bonnet closed.
1 The front trim panel incorporates the
dry for about an hour before finally applying
radiator grille and the front bumper.
the special coloured top coat. The result is a
2 Remove the three screws which secure the
7 Bonnet release cable - removal
correctly coloured component where the paint
panel to the bonnet lock platform
(see
and refitting
will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property
illustration).
that standard paint does not normally posses.
3 From under the vehicle remove the two
Removal
nuts which secure the lower part of the panel
(see illustration).
1 Open up the bonnet and unbolt the cable
5 Major body damage - repair
4 Pull the panel forwards so that it slides off
clip from the rear of the bonnet lock platform.
the side mountings. If front foglights are fitted,
2 Prise the cable and fitting out of the release
Where serious damage has occurred, or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a
Vauxhall/Opel dealer using special jigs. If the
body is left misaligned, it is primarily
dangerous as the car will not handle properly,
and secondly, uneven stresses will be
imposed on the steering, suspension and
possibly transmission, causing abnormal
wear, or complete failure, particularly to such
8.2 Undoing a front trim panel screw
8.3 Front trim panel securing nut (arrowed)
items as the tyres.
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
Refitting
8.4 Front trim panel mounting points
5 Clean all sealant away from the body
flange; commence refitting by applying a thick
bead of new sealant.
6 Offer the wing to the vehicle and bolt it
loosely into position. When it is correctly
aligned with the surrounding bodywork, fully
tighten the bolts.
7 Coat the inside of the wing with protective
wax or similar compound; when necessary,
paint the outside of the wing to match the rest
of the car.
8 Refit the headlamp washer reservoir, when
applicable.
9 Refit the wheel and protective panelling,
using new plastic rivets or other proprietary
fasteners.
10 Refit the direction indicator lamp and the
front trim panel.
11 Wind deflector - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 The wind deflector fills the gap between the
rear of the bonnet and the base of the
windscreen.
disconnect them as the panel is withdrawn
2 Remove both windscreen wiper arms (see
(see illustration). Also disconnect the
9
Rear trim panel - removal and
Chapter 12).
headlamp washer pipes (when fitted).
refitting
3 Remove the wind deflector securing screws
Refitting
(see illustrations).
5 Refit in the reverse order to removal. The side
Removal
4 Free the wind deflector from its clips and
mountings are riveted in position and can be
remove it. Disconnect the windscreen washer
1 Remove the number plate lamps
(see
renewed if wished after drilling out the rivets.
hoses as it is withdrawn.
Chapter 12).
2 Inside the car, free the soft trim from the
rear panel to expose the two securing nuts
(see illustration). Remove the nuts.
3 Remove the two screws from inside each
wheel arch to free the ends of the rear trim
panel (see illustration). Withdraw the panel,
disconnecting the rear foglight wires as it is
withdrawn.
Refitting
4 Refit in the reverse order to removal.
10 Front wing - removal and
9.2 Rear trim panel securing nut
11.3a Wind deflector screw at the wing
refitting
Removal
1 Remove the front trim panel, as described
in Section 8.
2 Remove the direction indicator lamp unit
(see Chapter 12).
3 Remove the wheel arch protective panelling
11
by pushing the centres out of the plastic rivets
and unclipping it from the edge of the wing.
Remove the headlamp washer reservoir, when
fitted.
4 Remove the twelve bolts which secure the
9.3 Freeing one end of the rear trim panel -
wing to the car. Free the wing from the sealing
11.3b Wind deflector screw near the wiper
screw holes arrowed
compound on its flanges and remove it.
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