Nissan PULSAR N13 Series / ASTRA LD Series. Instruction — part 40

Front Suspension

161

View of the suspension unit and knuckle assembly

removed as a unit to show the cam head bolt.

(1) With the piston rod fully extended, install the

coil springs. Ensure that the spring compressor is
tightened sufficiently.

NOTE: The flat coiled end of the spring
should face the top and the lower end of the
spring should be located correctly.

(2) Install the dust cover, bump rubber, insulator,

spring seat, thrust washer and mounting assembly
ensuring that the arrow on the spring seat will face the
outside of the vehicle when the suspension unit
assembly is installed.

(3) Install the piston rod nut and tighten the nut

securely.

(4) Remove the coil spring compressor from the

suspension unit assembly and tighten the piston rod
nut to the specified torque.

(5) Install the suspension unit assembly to the

vehicle, holding it in position by loosely installing the
upper mounting retaining nuts.

(6) Install the suspension unit assembly lower

mounting to the steering knuckle, align the mating
marks on the cam head bolt and tighten the nuts and
bolts to the specified torque.

NOTE: If the cam head bolt is not installed

in its original position, a wheel alignment
must be performed.

(7) Tighten the upper retaining nuts to the

specified torque.

(8) Install the brake hoses to the suspension unit.

Lower the vehicle to the ground.

(9) Check the front wheel alignment and adjust

as necessary. Refer to the Suspension and Steering
Angles heading in this section.

5. CONTROL ARM

Special Equipment Required:

To Renew Ball Joint and Control Arm Bushes —
Press, suitable tubes and mandrels
To Test Ball Joint — Small torque wrench or
preload gauge, spring scale

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL

(1) Loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front

of the vehicle and support it on chassis stands.
Remove the front wheel.

(2) Remove the split pin from the ball joint

retaining nut and remove the nut.

(3) Disconnect the ball joint from the control

arm using a suitable puller, or alternatively place a
suitable dolly against one side of the control arm eye
and strike the opposite side with a hammer until the
ball joint stud is free from the control arm eye.

(4)

Remove the nut retaining the stabilizer link

to the control arm.

(5) Remove the nut and through bolt from the

front control arm bush.

(6) Remove the bolts from the rear control arm

bush bracket and withdraw the control arm from the
vehicle.

(7) Inspect the control arm for cracks, damage

and distortion and renew if necessary.

(8) Inspect the ball joint and bushes for damage,

deterioration and excessive wear. If necessary renew

BALLJOINT

View of the control arm and associated components.

162

Front Suspension

the ball joint or bushes as described later in this
section.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure

with attention to the following points:

(1) When installing the control arm bush

bracket, ensure that the protrusion on the bracket is
towards the inside of the vehicle.

(2) Do not fully tighten the control arm bush

bolts and through bolt nut until the curb weight of the
vehicle is on the suspension.

NOTE: Curb weight is with the vehicle
unladen except for a full tank of fuel and
normal amounts of oil and water and with
the spare lyre, jack and hand tools in their
normal positions.

(3) Tighten the ball joint nut to the specified

torque and retain with a new split pin.

TO CHECK AND RENEW BALL JOINT

(1)

Remove the control arm from the vehicle as

previously described.

(2) Install the ball joint nut and turn the ball

joint at least ten revolutions to ensure that the ball
joint is correctly seated.

(3) Using a spring scale with the hook placed

over the split pin hole, check the ball joint swinging
torque. A new ball joint should measure 15.7-80.4 N
and a used ball joint should measure 7.8-80.4 N.
Renew the ball joint if necessary.

(4)

Using a small torque wrench or preload

gauge, measure the force required to rotate the ball
joint. A new ball joint should measure between
1.0-4.9 Nm and a used ball joint should measure
between 0.5-4.9 Nm. Renew the ball joint if neces-
sary.

(5) To renew the ball joint, remove the snap ring

from the stud end of the ball joint using snap ring
pliers.

(6) Support the control arm in a press, ball joint

stud uppermost, with a suitable tube that is large
enough for the ball joint to pass through.

(7) Press the ball joint out from the control arm.
(8) Press a new ball joint into the control arm

using a suitable tube that pushes on the outer circum-
ference of the joint only.

(9)

Install the snap ring and install the

control
arm to the vehicle as previously described.

TO RENEW CONTROL ARM BUSHES

(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as

previously described. Mark the position of the rear
control arm bush.

(2) To remove the rear control arm bush use a

bearing puller and a press. When installing the bush
use a suitable tube that pushes on the inner edge of the
bush only.

NOTE: Ensure that the bush is installed
with the flat portion in its original location.

(3) To remove the front control arm bush use a

suitable tube that pushes on the outer circumference
of the bush and a split tube supporting the control
arm.

(4) After the bush has been pressed out approx-

imately half way, cut the protruding part of the bush
using a hacksaw. Cutting the bush in this way will
allow removal.

(5) Support the control arm and push the new

bush in from the outside using a suitable tube that
pushes on the outer circumference only.

(6) Install the control arm to the vehicle as

previously described.

6. STABILISER BAR

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL

(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it

on chassis stands.

(2) Remove the bolts at the flexible joint retain-

ing the front engine pipe to the exhaust pipe located
below the stabilizer bar.

(3) Remove the bolt from the exhaust pipe

mounting below the stabilizer bar. Disconnect the
exhaust pipe at the flexible joint and allow the front of
the pipe to hang down.

(4) Remove the stabilizer bar bracket retaining

bolts and remove the stabilizer bar brackets from the
vehicle.

(5) Remove the stabilizer bar lower link nuts

from each control arm. When removing the lower nuts
it may be necessary to hold the upper nuts with a
spanner.

(6) Maneuver the stabilizer bar from the

vehicle.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure

with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that the stabilizer bar mounting rub-

bers are in a serviceable condition and secure in the
mounting brackets.

Dismantled view of one end of the stabilizer bar.

Front Suspension

163

(2) Ensure that the stabilizer bar links are in

good condition. Renew if necessary.

(3) When installing the stabilizer bar ensure that

the links are installed perpendicular to the control arm
with the ball joint socket face parallel to the end of the
stabilizer bar.

(4) Ensure that the brackets are installed with

the flat portion facing towards the front of the vehicle.
Tighten the retaining bolts securely.

7. SUSPENSION AND STEERING ANGLES

ADJUSTMENT

NOTE: Extensive knowledge and special-
ised equipment are required to measure and
correct the suspension and steering angles
with the exception of the front wheel toe in.
Therefore, as it is not a viable proposition
for the average person to carry out a com-
plete wheel alignment, the vehicle should be
taken to a wheel alignment specialist.

Prior to carrying out a wheel alignment, a thor-

ough inspection of the steering linkage, front hub
bearings, ball joints and suspension units should be
carried out. Faulty components should be renewed or
repaired as necessary.

The tread of the front tires should be examined

for excessive or uneven wear as certain conditions of
tire wear are indicative of damaged or worn compo-
nents in the suspension, steering linkage and/or wheels
and bearings. Refer to the heading Tire Wear Trouble
Shooting in the Wheels and Tires section. If the tires
are found to be defective, renew them with serviceable
lyres.

TO CHECK AND ADJUST TOE IN/OUT

NOTE: The vehicle should be unladen ex-
cept for the normal amount of fuel and with
the tires inflated to the correct pressures.

(1) With the vehicle on a level floor, raise the

front of the vehicle and support it on chassis stands.

(2) Spin each front wheel in turn and using a

piece of chalk, mark a line around the periphery of
each tire as near to the centre as possible.

(3) Lower the vehicle to the ground and bounce

the front several times to stabilize the suspension.

(4) Set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
(5) Mark the centre chalk line on both tires at a

point approximately 200 mm above the floor and
forward of the suspension.

(6) Using a tape measure, measure and record

the distance between the two marked points on the
tire centers.

Diagram indicating the front wheel toe in. Refer to

Specifications for the correct difference between

measurement A and B.

(7) Maintaining the wheels in the straight ahead

position, roll the vehicle forward until the marks are
the same distance from the floor but to the rear of the
suspension.

(8) Again using the tape measure, measure and

record the distance between the marks on the tires.

(9) The difference between the front and rear

measurement will give the correct toe in/out reading.
If the larger measurement is at the front, the wheels
are in a toe out position. If the reverse is true, the
wheels are in toe in position. Compare the reading
obtained with the figure given in Specifications.

(10) If adjustment of the toe in/out is necessary,

loosen the tie rod locknuts on both sides.

(11) Remove the retaining clips from the small

end of the steering rack rubber boots.

(12) Turn the tie rods as required until the correct

toe in/out reading is obtained.

NOTE: It is important to turn each tie rod
equally to maintain the central position of
the steering gear. Ensure that the lengths of
the tie rods are the same.

(13) Tighten the tie rod locknuts to the specified

torque without changing the positions of the adjusters.

(14) Install the retaining clips to the small end

of
the steering rack rubber boots, ensuring that the boots
are not twisted.

164

REAR SUSPENSION

SPECIFICATIONS

Type. . . . . . ...Independent MacPherson strut

Shock absorber. . . . . Oil filled, non-repairable

Maximum hub bearing end float . . . . . 0.05 mm

Rear wheel alignment:

Toe out . . . . . . . . . . 3 mm ± 2 mm

Camber . . . . . . . . . . . . - 1 ° ± 45'

TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS

Hub retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Nm

Suspension unit retaining nuts . . . . . ... 29 Nm

Upper mounting retaining nut . . . . . . 72 Nm

Suspension unit to knuckle nuts . . . . .. 118 Nm

Control arms to knuckle nut . . . . . . 118 Nm

Control arms to crossmember nut . . . ... 118 Nm

Stabiliser bar mounting bracket bolts . . .. 108 Nm

Stabiliser bar retaining nut. . . . . . . .. 83 Nm

Backing plate bolts. . . . . . . . . . ... 45 Nm

1. REAR SUSPENSION TROUBLE SHOOTING

REAR END NOISE

(1) Defective suspension unit or mounting: Re-

new the faulty components.

(2) Loose or worn control arm bushes or pivot

bolts: Check and tighten or renew the worn compo-
nents.

(3) Broken coil spring: Renew the coil spring,

preferably in matching pairs.

(4) Worn rear hub bearing: Check and renew the

hub bearing as necessary.

(5) Loose or worn stabilizer bar bushes: Check

and tighten or renew the worn components.

NOTE: As a quick guide to suspension unit
condition, bounce the vehicle up and down
(one side at a time) and observe if the vehicle
comes to rest in a single movement If the
vehicle bounces two or three times before
coming to rest the suspension unit is suspect.
If suspect, remove the suspension unit and
check for fractures and leaks. If the
suspension unit is found to be unserviceable,
it is good practice to install two new
suspension units as a matching pair.

To check the control arm bushes or pivot

bolts, insert a lever between the suspect unit
and its mounting and lever the unit back
and forth checking for excessive movement.

Check the coil springs visually for breaks.

If the spring is found to be unserviceable, it
is good practice to install two new coil
springs as a matching pair.

Rear hub bearing noise can be diagnosed

by raising and supporting the rear of the
vehicle, spinning one wheel at a time and
listening for a rumbling noise.

POOR OR ERRATIC ROAD HOLDING ABILITY

(1) Low or uneven tire pressure: Inflate to the

recommended pressures.

(2) Incorrect rear wheel alignment: Check and

adjust the rear wheel alignment as necessary.

(3) Defective suspension unit: Renew the faulty

suspension unit, preferably in pairs.

(4) Loose or broken stabilizer bar: Check and

tighten or renew the faulty components.

Check the stabilizer bar bushes and mounting rubbers

for wear and deterioration.