Honda Element (2010 year). Manual — part 19
9. Locate the jacking point nearest
the tire you need to change. It is
pointed to by an arrow molded into
the underside of the body. Place
the jack under the jacking point.
Turn the end bracket clockwise
until the top of the jack contacts
the jacking point. Make sure the
jacking point tab is resting in the
jack notch.
10. Use the extension and the wheel
nut wrench as shown to raise the
vehicle until the flat tire is off the
ground.
11. Remove the wheel nuts, then
remove the flat tire. Handle the
wheel nuts carefully; they may be
hot from driving. Place the flat tire
on the ground with the outside
surface facing up.
JACKING POINTS
EXTENSION
WHEEL NUT WRENCH
CONTINUED
Changing a Flat Tire
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On LX model
Do not attempt to forcibly pry the
wheel cover off with a screwdriver
or other tool. The wheel cover
cannot be removed without first
removing the wheel nuts.
12. Before mounting the spare tire,
wipe any dirt off the mounting
surface of the wheel and hub with
a clean cloth. Wipe the hub
carefully; it may be hot from
driving.
13. Put on the spare tire. Put the
wheel nuts back on finger-tight,
then tighten them in a crisscross
pattern with the wheel nut wrench
until the wheel is firmly against the
hub. Do not try to tighten the
wheel nuts fully.
WHEEL NUTS
WHEEL NUTS
WHEEL COVER
BRAKE HUB
Changing a Flat Tire
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14. Lower the vehicle to the ground,
and remove the jack.
15. Tighten the wheel nuts securely in
the same crisscross pattern. Have
the wheel nut torque checked at
the nearest automotive service
facility.
Tighten the wheel nuts to:
80 lbf·ft (108 N·m, 11 kgf·m)
16. Store the jack in its holder. Turn
the jack's end bracket to lock it in
place. Store the tools.
17. Remove the center cap (if
equipped) from the flat tire, and
store it in the spare tire well.
Loose items can fly around the
interior in a crash and could
seriously injure the occupants.
Store the wheel, jack, and tools
securely before driving.
18. Remove the wing bolt on the spare
tire mount, and pivot the arm 90°
to the upright position. Then
tighten the wing bolt securely.
ARM
WING BOLT
CONTINUED
Changing a Flat Tire
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19. Remove the small round plug from
the cargo area floor by pushing it
from the back side to make a hole.
Store the removed plug in a place
you can easily remember.
20. Reinstall the cargo area floor.
Place the flat tire face down on the
cargo area floor.
21. Align the center of the flat tire with
the hole in the cargo area floor.
Remove the spacer cone from the
wing bolt, turn it over, and put it
back on the bolt.
22. Secure the flat tire by screwing the
wing bolt to the spare tire mount
through the hole in the cargo area
floor.
23. Your vehicle's original tire has a
tire pressure monitoring system
sensor. To replace a tire, refer to
Changing a Tire with TPMS (see
page 228).
SPACER CONE
WING BOLT
Changing a Flat Tire
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Diagnosing why the engine won't
start falls into two areas, depending
on what you hear when you turn the
ignition switch to the START (III)
position:
●
You hear nothing, or almost
nothing. The engine's starter
motor does not operate at all, or
operates very slowly.
●
You can hear the starter motor
operating normally, or the starter
motor sounds like it is spinning
faster than normal, but the engine
does not start up and run.
Nothing Happens or the Starter
Motor Operates Very Slowly
When you turn the ignition switch to
the START (III) position, you do not
hear the normal noise of the engine
trying to start. You may hear a
clicking sound, a series of clicks, or
nothing at all.
Check these things:
●
Check the transmission interlock.
If you have a manual transmission,
the clutch pedal must be pushed
all the way to the floor or the
starter will not operate. With an
automatic transmission, the shift
lever must be in Park or neutral.
●
Turn the ignition switch to the ON
(II) position. Turn on the
headlights, and check their
brightness. If the headlights are
very dim or do not come on at all,
the battery is discharged (see
Jump Starting on page 291).
●
Turn the ignition switch to the
START (III) position. If the
headlights do not dim, check the
condition of the fuses. If the fuses
are OK, there is probably
something wrong with the
electrical circuit for the ignition
switch or starter motor. You will
need a qualified technician to
determine the problem. See
Emergency Towing on page 303.
If the headlights dim noticeably or go
out when you try to start the engine,
either the battery is discharged or
the connections are corroded. Check
the condition of the battery and
terminal connections (see page 277).
You can then try jump starting the
vehicle from a booster battery (see
page 291).
CONTINUED
If the Engine Won't Start
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The Starter Operates Normally
In this case, the starter motor's speed
sounds normal, or even faster than
normal, when you turn the ignition
switch to the START (III) position,
but the engine does not run.
●
Are you using a properly coded
key? An improperly coded key will
cause the immobilizer system
indicator in the instrument panel
to blink rapidly (see page 60).
●
Are you using the proper starting
procedure? Refer to
Starting the
Engine on page 216.
●
Do you have fuel? Check the fuel
gauge; the low fuel indicator may
not be working.
●
There may be an electrical
problem, such as no power to the
fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see
page 298).
If you find nothing wrong, you will
need a qualified technician to find the
problem (see
Emergency Towing
on page 303).
If the Engine Won't Start
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Although this seems like a simple
procedure, you should take several
precautions.
A battery can explode if you do
not follow the correct
procedure, seriously injuring
anyone nearby.
Keep all sparks, open flames,
and smoking materials away
from the battery.
You cannot start your vehicle with an
automatic transmission by pushing
or pulling it.
To Jump Start Your Vehicle:
1. Open the hood, and check the
physical condition of the battery.
In very cold weather, check the
condition of the electrolyte. If it
seems slushy or frozen, do not try
jump starting until it thaws.
If a battery sits in extreme cold, the
electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting
to jump start with a frozen battery can
cause it to rupture.
2. Turn off all the electrical
accessories: heater, A/C, audio
system, lights, etc. Put the
transmission in neutral (manual)
or Park (automatic), and set the
parking brake.
The numbers in the illustration
show you the order to connect the
jumper cables.
BOOSTER BATTERY
CONTINUED
Jump Starting
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3. Connect one jumper cable to the
positive (+) terminal on your
battery. Connect the other end to
the positive (+) terminal on the
booster battery.
4. Connect the second jumper cable
to the negative (-) terminal on
the booster battery. Connect the
other end to the grounding strap
on your vehicle as shown. Do not
connect this jumper cable to any
other part of the engine.
5. If the booster battery is in another
vehicle, have an assistant start that
vehicle and run it at a fast idle.
6. Start your vehicle. If the starter
motor still operates slowly, check
that the jumper cables have good
metal-to-metal contact.
7. Once your vehicle is running,
disconnect the negative cable from
your vehicle, then from the
booster battery. Disconnect the
positive cable from your vehicle,
then from the booster battery.
Keep the ends of the jumper cables
away from each other and any metal
on the vehicle until everything is
disconnected. Otherwise, you may
cause an electrical short.
Jump Starting
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The pointer of the vehicle's
temperature gauge should stay in the
midrange. If it climbs to the red
mark, you should determine the
reason (hot day, driving up a steep
hill, etc.).
If the vehicle overheats, you should
take immediate action. The only
indication may be the temperature
gauge climbing to or above the red
mark. Or you may see steam or spray
coming from under the hood.
Driving with the temperature gauge
pointer at the red mark can cause
serious damage to the engine.
Steam and spray from an
overheated engine can
seriously scald you.
Do not open the hood if steam
is coming out.
1. Safely pull to the side of the road.
Put the transmission in neutral
(manual) or Park (automatic), and
set the parking brake. Turn off all
the accessories, and turn on the
hazard lights.
2. If you see steam and/or spray
coming from under the hood, turn
off the engine. Wait until you see
no more signs of steam or spray,
then open the hood.
3. If you do not see steam or spray,
leave the engine running and
watch the temperature gauge. If
the high heat is due to
overloading, the engine should
start to cool down almost
immediately. If it does, wait until
the temperature gauge comes
down to the midpoint, then
continue driving.
4. If the temperature gauge stays at
the red mark, turn off the engine.
CONTINUED
If the Engine Overheats
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5. Look for any obvious coolant
leaks, such as a split radiator hose.
Everything is still extremely hot,
so use caution. If you find a leak, it
must be repaired before you
continue driving (see
Emergency
Towing on page 303).
6. If you don't find an obvious leak,
check the coolant level in the
radiator reserve tank. Add coolant
if the level is below the MIN mark.
7. If there was no coolant in the
reserve tank, you may need to add
coolant to the radiator. Let the
engine cool down until the pointer
reaches the middle of the
temperature gauge or lower before
checking the radiator.
Removing the radiator cap
while the engine is hot can
cause the coolant to spray out,
seriously scalding you.
Always let the engine and
radiator cool down before
removing the radiator cap.
8. Using gloves or a large heavy
cloth, turn the radiator cap
counterclockwise, without pushing
down, to the first stop. After the
pressure releases, push down on
the cap, and turn it until it comes
off.
9. Start the engine, and set the
temperature control dial to
maximum heat. Add coolant to the
radiator up to the base of the filler
neck. If you do not have the proper
coolant mixture available, you can
add plain water. Remember to
have the cooling system drained
and refilled with the proper
mixture as soon as you can.
10. Put the radiator cap back on
tightly. Run the engine, and check
the temperature gauge. If it goes
back to the red mark, the engine
needs repair (see
Emergency
Towing on page 303).
11. If the temperature stays normal,
check the coolant level in the
radiator reserve tank. If it has gone
down, add coolant to the MAX
mark. Put the cap back on tightly.
If the Engine Overheats
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Low Oil Pressure Indicator
This indicator should never
come on when the engine is
running. If it starts flashing or stays
on, the oil pressure has dropped very
low or lost pressure. Serious engine
damage is possible, and you should
take immediate action.
Running the engine with low oil
pressure can cause serious mechanical
damage almost immediately. Turn off
the engine as soon as you can safely get
the vehicle stopped.
1. Safely pull off the road, and shut
off the engine. Turn on the hazard
warning lights.
2. Let the vehicle sit for a minute.
Open the hood, and check the oil
level (see page 201). An engine
very low on oil can lose pressure
during cornering and other driving
maneuvers.
3. If necessary, add oil to bring the
level back to the full mark on the
dipstick (see page 251).
4. Start the engine, and watch the oil
pressure indicator. If it does not go
out within 10 seconds, turn off the
engine. There is a mechanical
problem that needs to be repaired
before you can continue driving
(see
Emergency Towing on page
303).
Charging System Indicator
If the charging system
indicator comes on brightly
when the engine is running, the
battery is not being charged.
Immediately turn off all electrical
accessories. Try not to use other
electrically operated controls such as
the power windows. Keep the engine
running; starting the engine will
discharge the battery rapidly.
Go to a service station or garage
where you can get technical
assistance.
Low Oil Pressure Indicator, Charging System Indicator
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If this indicator comes on
while driving, it means one
of the engine's emissions control
systems may have a problem. Even
though you may feel no difference in
your vehicle's performance, it can
reduce your fuel economy and cause
increased emissions. Continued
operation may cause serious damage.
If you have recently refueled your
vehicle, the indicator coming on
could be due to a loose or missing
fuel fill cap. You will also see a
‘‘CHECK FUEL CAP’’ message on
the information display. Tighten the
cap until it clicks at least once.
Tightening the cap will not turn the
indicator off immediately; it can take
several days of normal driving.
If the indicator comes on repeatedly,
even though it may turn off as you
continue driving, have your vehicle
checked by your dealer as soon as
possible.
If you keep driving with the malfunction
indicator lamp on, you can damage
your vehicle's emissions controls and
engine. Those repairs may not be
covered by your vehicle's warranties.
If your vehicle has an automatic
transmission, the malfunction
indicator lamp may also come on
with the ‘‘D’’ indicator.
Readiness Codes
Your vehicle has certain ‘‘readiness
codes’’ that are part of the on-board
diagnostics for the emissions
systems. In some states, part of the
emissions testing is to make sure
these codes are set. If they are not
set, the test cannot be completed.
If the battery in your vehicle has been
disconnected or gone dead, these
codes may be erased. It can take
several days of driving under various
conditions to set the codes again.
To check if they are set, turn the
ignition switch to the ON (II)
position, without starting the engine.
The malfunction indicator lamp will
come on for 20 seconds. If it then
goes off, the readiness codes are set.
If it blinks five times, the readiness
codes are not set. If possible, do not
take your vehicle for an emissions
test until the readiness codes are set.
Refer to
Emissions Testing for more
information (see page 319).
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
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Brake System Indicator (Red)
U.S.
Canada
The brake system indicator (red)
normally comes on when you turn
the ignition switch to the ON (II)
position, and as a reminder to check
the parking brake. It will stay on if
you do not fully release the parking
brake.
If the brake system indicator (red)
comes on while driving, the brake
fluid level is probably low. Press
lightly on the brake pedal to see if it
feels normal. If it does, check the
brake fluid level the next time you
stop at a service station (see page
258).
If the fluid level is low, take your
vehicle to a dealer, and have the
brake system inspected for leaks or
worn brake pads.
However, if the brake pedal does not
feel normal, you should take
immediate action. A problem in one
part of the system's dual circuit
design will still give you braking at
two wheels. You will feel the brake
pedal go down much farther before
the vehicle begins to slow down, and
you will have to press harder on the
pedal.
Slow down by shifting to a lower
gear, and pull to the side of the road
when it is safe. Because of the long
distance needed to stop, it is
hazardous to drive the vehicle. You
should have it towed and repaired as
soon as possible (see
Emergency
Towing on page 303).
If you must drive the vehicle a short
distance in this condition, drive
slowly and carefully.
If the ABS indicator and the VSA
system indicator come on with the
brake system indicator, have your
vehicle inspected by your dealer
immediately.
Brake System Indicator
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The vehicle's fuses are located in two
fuse boxes. The under-hood fuse box
is located in the engine compartment
on the driver's side. To open it, push
the tabs as shown.
The interior fuse box is underneath
the steering column. To remove the
fuse box lid, turn the knobs
clockwise and pull the lid out of its
hinges.
Checking and Replacing Fuses
If something electrical in your
vehicle stops working, check for a
blown fuse first. Determine from the
chart on pages 301 and 302, or the
diagram on the fuse box lid, which
fuse or fuses control that device.
Check those fuses first, but check all
the fuses before deciding that a
blown fuse is the cause. Replace any
blown fuses, and check if the device
works.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the
LOCK (0) position. Make sure the
headlights and all other
accessories are off.
2. Remove the cover from the fuse
box.
UNDER-HOOD
TAB
INTERIOR
KNOBS
Fuses
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3. Check each of the large fuses in
the under-hood fuse boxes by
looking through the top at the wire
inside. Removing these fuses
requires a Phillips-head
screwdriver.
4. Check the smaller fuses in the
under-hood fuse box and all the
fuses in the interior fuse box by
pulling out each one with the fuse
puller provided in the under-hood
fuse box.
5. Look for a blown wire inside the
fuse. If it is blown, replace it with
one of the spare fuses of the same
rating or lower.
FUSE
BLOWN
FUSE PULLER
BLOWN
CONTINUED
Fuses
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If you cannot drive the vehicle
without fixing the problem, and you
do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse
of the same rating or a lower rating
from one of the other circuits. Make
sure you can do without that circuit
temporarily (such as the accessory
power socket or radio).
If you replace the blown fuse with a
spare fuse that has a lower rating, it
might blow out again. This does not
indicate anything wrong. Replace the
fuse with one of the correct rating as
soon as you can.
Replacing a fuse with one that has a
higher rating greatly increases the
chances of damaging the electrical
system. If you do not have a
replacement fuse with the proper rating
for the circuit, install one with a lower
rating.
6. If the replacement fuse of the same
rating blows in a short time, there
is probably a serious electrical
problem in your vehicle. Leave the
blown fuse in that circuit and have
your vehicle checked by a
qualified technician.
On EX and SC models
If the radio fuse is removed, the
audio system will disable itself. The
next time you turn on the radio you
will see ‘‘ENTER CODE’’ in the
frequency display. Use the preset
buttons to enter the specific digit
code (see page 188).
On vehicles with navigation system
If the navigation system fuse is
removed, the navigation system will
disable itself. The next time you turn
on the ignition switch, the system
will require you to enter a PIN before
it can be used. Refer to the
navigation system manual.
Fuses
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