Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual — page 19

and a scavenger pump, which returns oil to the oil tank from
the engine.

Removal/Installation

The gearcase cover is shown removed in this procedure

for clarity.
1. Place a drip pan underneath the engine.
2. Drain the engine oil tank (Chapter Three).
3. Disconnect the oil lines from the pump (Figure 72).
Plug the lines to prevent leaks and contamination.
4. Unscrew the bolts (Figure 73) that attach the pump to
the bottom of the crankcase and remove the pump.
5. Install by reversing these steps, noting the following:

a. Clean the crankcase oil pump machined surface (Fig-

ure 74) of all gasket residue.

b. Install a new oil pump gasket.
c. Install the bolts (Figure 73) and tighten them to

90-110 in.-lb. (10-12 N•m).

6. After installing the oil pump, refill the engine oil and
prime the pump as described in

Periodic Lubricaton

in

Chapter Three.

Disassembly

Refer to Figure 75.

1. Remove the oil pump bolts.
2. Remove the cover (Figure 76) from the pump body and
remove the O-ring (Figure 77) from the groove in the
cover.
3. Remove the outer (Figure 78) and inner (Figure 79)
feed gerotor set from the shaft. Pull the pin (Figure 80) out
of the shaft.
4. Remove the outer plate (Figure 81), spring washer (Fig-
ure 82) and the inner plate (Figure 83).
5. Remove the outer scanvenger gerotor (Figure 84).
6. Remove the circlip (Figure 85) from the gear shaft.
7. Remove the scavenger inner gerotor (Figure 86).
8. Remove the pin (Figure 87) from the shaft and remove
the gearshaft (Figure 88) from the pump body.

Cleaning/Inspection

Refer to Figure 75. Replace components not within spec-

ification as noted in Table 1.
1. Clean all of the parts with solvent and blow dry with
compressed air. Blow out all of the ports and passages to
ensure no sludge or solvent remains.
2. Replace deformed or damaged O-rings .
3. If the outer plate seal (Figure 89) is worn or damaged,
carefully pry it out of the outer plate. Tap a new seal in place.
4. Inspect the spring washer (Figure 90) for damage and
replace it if any of the fingers are broken.
5. Check the gerotor sets (Figure 91) for scoring and dam-
age. Assemble the inner and outer rotors of each set. See

Figure 92 and Figure 93. Measure the assembled clearance
with a flat feeler gauge as shown in Figure 94.

6. Measure the thickness of the inner and outer feed
gerotors (Figure 95). If both pieces are not the same thick-
ness, replace them as a set.

7. Assemble the feed gerotor assembly into the cover (Fig-
ure 96). Perform the following:

222

CHAPTER FIVE

72

73

74

ENGINE LOWER END

223

5

75

OIL PUMP

(1986-1990)

1. Gearshaft
2. Pin
3. Pin
4. Bushing
5. Gasket
6. Body
7. Roll pin
8. Fitting

9A. Fitting (1986-1987 models)
9B. Fitting (1988-1990 models)

10. Oil line (1/4 in.)
11. Scavenger gerotor (outer)
12. Scavenger gerotor (inner)
13. Circlip
14. Inner plate

15. Spring washer
16. Outer plate seal
17. Outer plate
18. Feed gerotor (inner)
19. Feed gerotor (outer)
20. Bushing
21. O-ring
22. Cover
23. Flat washer
24. Lockwasher
25. Bolt
26. Elbow fitting
27. Fitting
28. Oil line (1/8 in.)

224

CHAPTER FIVE

76

77

78

79

80

81

82

83

ENGINE LOWER END

225

5

84

85

86

87

88

89

90

91

a. Place a straightedge over the gerotors as shown in

Figure 97. Both gerotors must be the same height. If
not, replace the cover.

b. Insert a flat feeler gauge between the straightedge

and the flange of the cover (Figure 98). If the dis-
tance is not within specification, replace the
cover.

8. Inspect the bushing in the body (Figure 99) and in the
cover (Figure 100) for scoring, wear and damage. If worn,
replace the bushings as described in this section.
9. Inspect the gearshaft pinion gear teeth. Replace the
shaft if any of the teeth are damaged or if they are severely
worn.
10. If the bushing(s) and gearshaft condition is okay as
checked in Step 8 and Step 9, check the shaft-to-bushing
clearance in the body and cover. If the clearance is not
within specifcation, replace the bushings as described in
this section.
11. Inspect the gerotor machined surfaces in the body and
cover for scoring or cracks. Replace the oil pump if these
parts are damaged.

Oil Pump Bushing Replacement

Replacement of the bushings in the body (Figure 99) and

cover (Figure 100) require a press. When installing new
bushings, observe the following:

226

CHAPTER FIVE

92

93

94

95

96

97

1. The body bushing (Figure 99) should be pressed in
0.100 in. (2.54 mm) below the surface.

2. The cover bushing (Figure 100) should be pressed in
0.120 in. (3.05 mm) below the surface.

Assembly

1. Lightly lubricate all parts with fresh engine oil.

2. Install the gearshaft through the body (Figure 88).

3. Install the gearshaft pin (Figure 87) in the hole closest
to the drive gear.

4. Install the scavenger inner gerotor (Figure 86).

5. Install the gearshaft circlip (Figure 85).

6. Install the scanvenger outer gerotor (Figure 84).

7. Align the notch in the inner plate with the roll pin in-
stalled in the body and install the inner plate. See Figure
83.

8. Install the spring washer (Figure 82) so that its fingers
face the inner plate.

9. Align the notch in the outer plate (Figure 81) with the
roll pin in the body and install the outer plate. The outer
plate seal lip (Figure 89) should face into the pump body.
Figure 81 shows the outer plate correctly installed.

10. Install the push pin (Figure 80) into the gearshaft.

ENGINE LOWER END

227

5

98

99

100

101

102

103

11. Install the feed gerotor inner (Figure 79) and outer
(Figure 78) gears. Make sure the notch in the inner gerotor
meshes with the gear shaft pin.
12. Install a new O-ring into the cover groove (Figure 77).
13. Assemble the cover (Figure 76) onto the body.
14. Install the oil pump screws and install the oil pump as
described in this chapter.

OIL PUMP (1991-2003 MODELS)

The oil pump (Figure 101) is mounted underneath the

front of the engine and can be removed with the engine in-
stalled in the frame and without removing the gearcase
cover.

The oil pump consists of two sections: a feed pump,

which supplies oil under pressure to the engine compo-
nents, and a scavenger pump, which returns oil to the oil
tank from the engine.

Removal

NOTE

Label all gears and Woodruff keys during re-
moval so that they can be installed in their
original positions.

1. Drain the oil tank (Chapter Three).
2. Wipe off each oil line and fitting at the oil pump.
3. Label each oil line (Figure 101) prior to disconnecting
it.
4. Disconnect the oil lines from the oil pump. Plug the
open end of each line to prevent leaks and contamination.
5. Loosen the oil pump mounting bolts (Figure 102). Re-
move the bolts and oil pump from the engine (Figure 103).
6. Remove and discard the oil pump gasket.
7. Cover the oil pump opening to keep dirt and debris from
entering the engine.
8. Store the oil pump in a plastic bag until disassembly or
installation.

Disassembly

Refer to Figure 104.

1. Remove the oil pump housing screws (A, Figure 105),
lockwashers and flat washers.
2. Remove the oil pump cover (B, Figure 105).
3. Remove and discard the O-ring (Figure 106).
4. Slide off the feed rotor assembly (Figure 107).
5. Remove the separator plate (Figure 108).
6. Slide off the scavenge rotor assembly (Figure 109).
7. Remove and discard the retaining ring (Figure 110).
8. Remove the thrust washer (Figure 111).
9. Remove the oil pump gearshaft (Figure 112).

Inspection

1. Clean all the parts in solvent and blow dry. Blow out all
oil passages with compressed air. Place cleaned parts on a
clean, lint-free cloth during inspection and reassembly.

2. Inspect the cover and body (Figure 113) for scratches,
scoring or severe wear. Both rotor inside surfaces will show

228

CHAPTER FIVE

104

OIL PUMP

(1991-2003 MODELS)

1. Gearshaft
2. Oil pump body
3. Hose elbow
4. O-ring
5. Thrust washer
6. Retaining ring
7. Scavenge rotors
8. Separator plate

9. Feed rotors

10. Hose nozzle
11. Cover
12. Washer
13. Lockwasher
14. Screw
15. Bolt
16. Hose nozzle

105

ENGINE LOWER END

229

5

106

107

108

109

110

111

112

113

some scoring but it should not be excessive. If these areas
are heavily scored, replace the oil pump assembly.
3. Inspect the gear shaft assembly (Figure 114) for wear.
The gear will show signs of pattern polish but there should
be no other apparent wear or damage.
4. Check the fit of the gear shaft where it passes through
the oil pump body (Figure 112). The shaft should turn
smoothly with no binding or excessive play.
5. Inspect the separator plate (Figure 115) for warp, cracks
or other damage.
6. Check both rotor sets (Figure 116) for scoring, cracks or
excessive wear.
7. Measure the thickness of each feed rotor (Figure 117).
Both rotors must be the same thickness. If they are not the
same thickness, replace the feed rotors as a set.
8. Assemble the feed rotors and measure the clearance be-
tween the gear teeth as shown in Figure 118. If the gear
clearance is worn to the service limit in Table 1, replace the
feed rotors as a set.
9. Assemble the scavenge rotors and measure the clear-
ance between the gear teeth as shown in Figure 119. If the
gear clearance is worn to the service limit in Table 1, re-
place the scavenge rotors as a set.

Reassembly

Refer to Figure 104.

NOTE

All parts must be clean prior to assembly. If
necessary, reclean as described in

Inspection

in this section.

1. Coat all moving parts with clean engine oil prior to as-
sembly.
2. Install the gear shaft (Figure 112) through the bottom of
the oil pump body.
3. Install the thrust washer (Figure 111) onto the
gearshaft.
4. Install a

new

retaining ring (Figure 110) into the

gearshaft groove. Make sure the ring seats in the groove
completely. Turn the gearshaft by hand; the shaft should
turn smoothly with no binding or excessive play.
5. Install the inner and then the outer scavenge rotors. See
Figure 109.
6. Install the separator plate (Figure 120) into the oil pump
body; align the separator plate slots with the tabs inside the
pump body.
7. Install the feed rotors (Figure 107) over the gearshaft.
8. Install a

new

O-ring (Figure 106) into the oil pump

cover groove.
9. Install the pump cover (B, Figure 105) onto the pump
body. Install oil pump screws, lockwashers and flat washers
(A, Figure 105). Tighten the screws to 70-80 in.-lb. (7-9
N•m).
10. Turn the gear shaft by hand; the pump should turn
smoothly.

230

CHAPTER FIVE

114

115

116

117

NOTE

If the oil hose fittings were removed from the
oil pump, apply pipe sealant to the fitting
threads prior to installation.

Installation

1. Thoroughly clean the oil pump and engine case gasket
surfaces.

2. Install a new oil pump gasket. Then install the oil pump
onto the crankcase. Tighten the oil pump mounting screws
(Figure 102) to 125-150 in.-lb. (14-17 N•m).

NOTE

When installing the original equipment (OE)
hose clamps, refer to Chapter Four. A
screw-type hose clamp may be substituted in
place of the OE hose clamp.

3. Unplug, then reconnect the oil hoses (Figure 101) at the
oil pump. Secure each hose with new hose clamps.

NOTE

If the oil hose fittings were removed from the
oil pump, apply pipe sealant to the fitting
threads prior to installation.

4. Refill the oil tank (Chapter Three).

OIL FILTER MOUNT

(1986-1990 MODELS)

The oil filter mount is located on the right crankcase

half. The oil filter mount houses the oil filter, check ball or
valve and spring, and oil pressure switch. Refer to Figure
121.

Removal/Installation

1. Drain the engine oil (Chapter Three).
2. If it is necessary to disassemble the oil filter mount, re-
move the oil filter.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the oil pressure
regulator switch (Chapter Twelve).
4. Disconnect the two pressure hoses (Figure 122) from
the oil pump.
5. Remove the filter mount-to-gearcase bolts and pull the
filter mount away from the gearcase.
6. Remove the quad seal (2, Figure 121).
7. Installation is the reverse of the preceding steps while
noting the following.

a. Install a

new

quad seal.

b. Refill the engine oil and install the oil filter as de-

scribed in Chapter Three.

c. Prime the oil pump as described in

Engine Oil and

Filter Change

(Chapter Three).

Disassembly/Reassembly

1. Disconnect the two pressure hoses from the filter
mount (Figure 122).
2A. On 1986-early 1987 models, remove the oil filter
adapter as follows:

a. Unscrew the filter adapter.
b. Push the check valve out of the filter adapter with a

5/16 in. (7.94 mm) diameter rod.

ENGINE LOWER END

231

5

118

119

120

c. Discard the check valve O-ring.

2B. On late 1987-1990 models, remove the oil filter adapter
as follows:

a. Unscrew the filter adapter.
b. Remove the check ball and spring.

3. Remove the oil pressure switch (Chapter Twelve).
4. Unscrew the plug, and then remove the oil pressure reg-
ulator plunger, spring and washer.
5. Clean all metal parts in solvent. Allow to dry thor-
oughly.
6. Inspect the check valve by moving the spring-loaded
cup inside the valve. The cup must move freely and return
to its closed (seated) position. Replace the valve if neces-
sary.
7. Replace the pressure regulator plunger and spring if
damaged.
8. Assemble by reversing Steps 1-4. Note the following.

a. Install

new

O-rings.

WARNING

If the check valve is installed backwards, the
oiling system will not operate properly and
engine seizure will result.

NOTE

The check valve is installed correctly if the
brass portion of the valve is visible.

b. Install the check valve so that the arrow on the valve

faces toward the oil filter adapter (direction of oil
flow).

c. Use pipe sealant on all fittings and plugs.
d. On late 1987-1990 models, install the oil filter

adapter so that the end with the smaller diameter
faces the check ball.

e. Apply threadlock (Loctite 242 or equivalent) to the

oil filter adapter before installation. Tighten the
adapter securely.

f. Tighten the plug to 15-20 ft.-lb. (20-27 N•m).
g. Tighten the oil pressure switch to 60-70 in.-lb. (7-8

N•m).

9. Install the oil filter and refill with oil (Chapter Three).
10. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

OIL FILTER MOUNT

(1991-2003 MODELS)

The oil filter mount is part of the right crankcase half.

The oil filter mount houses the oil filter, check ball and
spring, and oil pressure switch. See Figure 123.

Disassembly

Refer to Figure 123.

1. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter (Chapter Three).
2. Remove the oil filter adapter (A, Figure 124, typical)
from the oil filter mount.

3. Remove the check ball and spring (Figure 125, typical).

4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the oil pressure
switch (Chapter Twelve).

5. Remove the oil pressure switch (B, Figure 124).

232

CHAPTER FIVE

121

OIL FILTER MOUNT

(1986-1990 MODELS)

1. Filter mount
2. Quad seal
3. Hose

(1/8 in.)

4. Hose

(1/4 in.)

5. Oil pressure

switch

6. Oil pressure

plunger

7. Spring
8. Washer
9. Plug

10. Oil filter adapter

(1986-early 1987 models)

11. Check valve

(1986-early 1987 models)

12. O-ring

(1986-early 1987 models)

13. Spring

(late 1987-1990 models)

14. Check ball

(late 1987-1990 models)

15. Oil filter adapter

(later 1987-1990)

122

Inspection

1. Remove thread sealant residue from all threaded parts.
2. Clean the check ball, spring and oil filter adapter in sol-
vent and dry thoroughly.

Reassembly

1. Apply pipe sealant to the oil pressure switch threads
prior to installation. Install the switch and tighten to 60-70
in.-lb. (7-8 N•m).
2. Install the oil filter adapter as follows:

a. The ends on the oil filter adapter are symmetrical; ei-

ther end may be installed into the oil filter mount.

b. Apply threadlock (Loctite 243 or equivalent) onto the

oil filter adapter threads that will be installed into the
oil filter mount. Do not install thread sealant on the
oil filter end.

c. Install the spring, and then the check ball into the hole

in the center of the oil filter mount (Figure 125).
Then push the oil filter adapter (threadlock end)
against the check ball and thread it into the oil filter
mount. Tighten the oil filter adapter to 96-144 in.-lb.
(11-16 N

•

m).

3. Reconnect the electrical wire onto the oil pressure
switch (Chapter Twelve).
4. Install the oil filter and refill with oil (Chapter Three).
5. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT

NOTE

In Harley-Davidson terminology, the crank-
shaft is called the flywheel. The crankshaft’s
left shaft is referred to as the sprocket shaft;
the right shaft is referred to as the pinion
shaft.

The crankcase must be disassembled to service the

crankshaft, connecting rod bearings, pinion shaft bearing
and sprocket shaft bearing. Some specialized service proce-
dures, such as bearing and crankshaft service, should be re-
ferred to a dealership.

A press and special tools are required to perform the fol-

lowing service procedures. Refer to Figures 126-128 when
servicing the crankcase and crankshaft.

Crankshaft End Play

Measuring crankshaft end play provides an indication of

sprocket shaft bearing wear. Crankshaft end play is con-
trolled by a shim placed on the crankshaft sprocket shaft (8,
Figure 128). Measure crankshaft end play prior to disas-
sembling the crankcases.

When measuring end play, the crankshaft must be moved

in and out. To do this, a tool must be fabricated prior to

ENGINE LOWER END

233

5

123

OIL FILTER MOUNT

(1991-2003 MODELS)

1. Plug (1991 models)
2. Spring (1991 models)
3. Pressure regulator

plunger (1991 models)

4. Oil filter mount

(intergral with
right crankcase half)

5. Spring

6A. Check ball

(1991models)

6B. Check ball

(1992-2003 models)

7. Oil filter adapter
8. Feed hose
9. Elbow

(1991-1995 models)

10. Oil pressure switch

124

125

234

CHAPTER FIVE

126

166

CRANKCASE FASTENERS

(1986-1990 MODELS)

Gearcase side

1. Crankcase
2. Right, rear crankcase
3. Washer
4. Lockwasher
5. Bolt
6. Nut
7. Washer
8. Bolt
9. Bolt

10. Lockwasher
11. Bolt
12. Bolt

13. Rear engine mount
14. Bolt
15. Bolt
16. Nut
17. Lockwasher
18. Washer
19. Bolt
20. Washer
21. Right, front lower engine mount
22. Nut
23. Left, front lower engine mount
24. Bolt

checking end play. The tool can be made by welding two
handles onto a spare sprocket shaft nut.

1. Remove the engine from the frame as described in this
chapter.

2. Remove the gearcase cover as described in this chapter.

3. Remove the primary chain and sprocket as described in
Chapter Six or Chapter Seven.

4. Secure the crankcase to a workstand or workbench.

5. Attach a dial indicator so that the plunger touches
against the end of the crankshaft as shown in Figure 129.

NOTE

The sprocket shaft bearings (left side) must be
preloaded when measuring crankshaft end
play.

6. Install the engine sprocket onto the sprocket shaft. Then
thread the sprocket nut tool (with handles) onto the
sprocket shaft and tighten to the specification listed in Ta-
ble 3.

7. Pull the sprocket shaft (Figure 129) in and out and note
the crankshaft end play reading on the dial indicator. If the
total indicator reading is not within the crankshaft end play

ENGINE LOWER END

235

5

127

CRANKCASE FASTENERS

(1991-2003 MODELS)

1. Nuts
2. Lockwashers
3. Washers
4. Crankcase
5. Bolt
6. Right lower engine mount
7. Left lower engine mount
8. Bolt
9. Bolt

10. Bolt
11. Bolt (3/4 in. [19 mm] long)
12. Washer
13. Bolt (3-3/4 in. [95.25 mm] long)
14. Washers
15. Bolts (2-1/2 in. [63.5 mm] long)
16. Bolts
17. Bolts

specification listed in Table 1, the inner shim (8, Figure 128)
must be replaced. Select the correct size shim from Table 2.

8. Remove the dial indicator, sprocket shaft nut tool and
engine sprocket.

Crankcase Disassembly

A press will be required to remove the crankshaft.

1. Remove the engine from the frame as described in this
chapter.

CAUTION

After removing the cylinders, slip hoses (

Fig-

ure 130

) over the cylinder studs to avoid

damaging them during the following service
procedures. In addition, do not lift the crank-
case assembly by grabbing the cylinder studs.
Bent or damaged cylinder studs may cause oil
leaks.

236

CHAPTER FIVE

128

CRANKCASE/CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

(Align circlip opening
with oil feed hole)

1. Right crankcase half
2. Pinion shaft bearing outer race
3. Retaining ring
4. Pinion shaft bearing
5. Pinion shaft bearing inner race
6. Crankshaft
7. Right sprocket shaft bearing

8. Shim
9. Left crankcase half

10. Sprocket shaft right-hand outer race
11. Lock ring
12. Left sprocket shaft outer race
13. Left spocket shaft bearing

129

Dial indicator

2. Disassemble and remove the gearcase as described in
this chapter.
3. Check the crankshaft end play as described in this chapter.
4. Loosen, then remove the crankcase bolts and washer
(Figure 126 and Figure 127).
5. Lay the crankcase on wood blocks so that the right side
(Figure 131) faces up.
6. Tap the crankcase with a plastic mallet and remove the
right crankcase half.
7. Remove the dowel pins.

WARNING

A press is required to remove the crankshaft.
To prevent eye damage from parts flying out
while under pressure, wear safety glasses.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to remove the crankshaft by
driving it out with a hammer. The force may
knock the flywheels out of alignment and
damage the sprocket shaft threads.

8. Press the crankshaft out of the left crankcase half as fol-
lows:

a. Support the left crankcase half in a press with parallel

bars or wood blocks as shown in Figure 132. Check
that there is adequate room for the crankshaft and con-
necting rods as the crankshaft is being pressed out.

b. Center the press ram with the sprocket shaft, and then

press the crankshaft from the case half. Support the
bottom of the crankshaft to prevent it from falling to
the floor.

Inspection

1. Measure the connecting rod side play with a feeler
gauge as shown in Figure 133. If the side play is not within
the specifications in Table 1, refer service to a dealership.
2. Inspect the piston pin bushings (Figure 134) for wear or
damage. Replace the bushings as described in Chapter
Four.
3. Inspect the connecting rods (Figure 135) for damage.

ENGINE LOWER END

237

5

130

131

132

133

134