Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual — page 3

home mechanic. Always use the correct tools for the job at
hand. Keep tools organized and clean. Store them in a tool
chest with related tools organized together.

Quality tools are essential. The best are constructed of

high-strength alloy steel. These tools are light, easy to use
and resistant to wear. Their working surface is devoid of
sharp edges and the tool is carefully polished. They have an
easy-to-clean finish and are comfortable to use. Quality
tools are a good investment.

When purchasing tools to perform the procedures cov-

ered in this manual, consider the tool’s potential frequency
of use. If starting a new tool kit, consider purchasing a basic
tool set from a quality tool supplier. These sets are available
in many tool combinations and offer substantial savings
when compared to individually purchased tools. As work
experience grows and tasks become more complicated,
specialized tools can be added.

Some of the procedures in this manual specify special

tools. Refer to Table 12. In most cases, the tool is illustrated
in use. Well-equipped mechanics may be able to substitute
similar tools or fabricate a suitable replacement. However,
in some cases, the specialized equipment or expertise may
make it impractical for the home mechanic to attempt the
procedure. When necessary, such operations are identified
in the text with the recommendation to have a dealership or
specialist perform the task. It may be less expensive to have
a professional perform these jobs, especially when consid-
ering the cost of the equipment.

The manufacturer’s part number is provided for many of

the tools mentioned in this manual. These part numbers are
correct at the time of original publication. The publisher
cannot guarantee the part number or the tools in this manual
will be available in the future.

Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers of various lengths and types are mandatory

for the simplest tool kit. The two basic types are the slotted
tip (flat blade) and the Phillips tip. These are available in
sets that often include an assortment of tip sizes and shaft
lengths.

As with all tools, use a screwdriver designed for the job.

Make sure the size of the tip conforms to the size and shape
of the fastener. Use them only for driving screws. Never use
a screwdriver for prying or chiseling metal. Repair or re-
place worn or damaged screwdrivers. A worn tip may dam-
age the fastener, making it difficult to remove.

Wrenches

Open-end, box-end and combination wrenches (Figure

11) are available in a variety of types and sizes.

The number stamped on the wrench refers to the distance

between the work areas. This size must match the size of the
fastener head.

The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips

the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool
slipping. The box-end wrench is designed with either a 6-
or 12-point opening. For stubborn or damaged fasteners,
the 6-point provides superior holding ability by contacting
the fastener across a wider area at all six edges. For general
use, the 12-point works well. It allows the wrench to be re-
moved and reinstalled without moving the handle over such
a wide arc.

An open-end wrench is fast and works best in areas with

limited overhead access. It contacts the fastener at only two
points, and is subject to slipping under heavy force, or if the
tool or fastener is worn. A box-end wrench is preferred in
most instances, especially when breaking loose and apply-
ing the final tightness to a fastener.

The combination wrench has a box-end on one end, and

an open-end on the other. This combination makes it a very
convenient tool.

Adjustable Wrenches

An adjustable wrench, or Crescent wrench (Figure 12),

can fit nearly any nut or bolt head that has clear access
around its entire perimeter. Adjustable wrenches are best
used as a backup wrench to keep a large nut or bolt from
turning while the other end is being loosened or tightened
with a box-end or socket wrench.

Adjustable wrenches contact the fastener at only two

points, which makes them more subject to slipping off the
fastener. The fact that one jaw is adjustable and may loosen
only aggravates this shortcoming. Make certain the solid
jaw is the one transmitting the force.

Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles

WARNING

Do not use hand sockets with air or impact
tools, as they may shatter and cause injury.
Always wear eye protection when using im-
pact or air tools.

GENERAL INFORMATION

9

1

12

Sockets that attach to a ratchet handle are available with

6-point (A, Figure 13) or 12-point (B) openings and differ-
ent drive sizes (Figure 14) . The drive size indicates the size
of the square hole that accepts the ratchet handle. The num-
ber stamped on the socket is the size of the work area and
must match the fastener head.

As with wrenches, a 6-point socket provides supe-

rior-holding ability, while a 12-point socket needs to be
moved only half as far to reposition it on the fastener.

Sockets are designated for either hand or impact use. Im-

pact sockets are made of thicker material for more durabil-
ity. Compare the size and wall thickness of a 19-mm hand
socket (A, Figure 15) and the 19-mm impact socket (B).
Use impact sockets when using an impact driver or air
tools. Use hand sockets with hand-driven attachments.

Various handles are available for sockets. The speed han-

dle is used for fast operation. Flexible ratchet heads in vary-
ing lengths allow the socket to be turned with varying force,
and at odd angles. Extension bars allow the socket setup to
reach difficult areas. The ratchet is the most versatile. It al-
lows the user to install or remove the nut without removing
the socket.

Sockets combined with any number of drivers make

them undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most convenient
tool for fastener removal and installation.

Impact Driver

WARNING

Do not use hand sockets with air or impact
tools as they may shatter and cause injury. Al-
ways wear eye protection when using impact
or air tools.

An impact driver provides extra force for removing fas-

teners, by converting the impact of a hammer into a turning
motion. This makes it possible to remove stubborn fasten-
ers without damaging them. Impact drivers and inter-
changeable bits (Figure 16) are available from most tool
suppliers. When using a socket with an impact driver make
sure the socket is designed for impact use. Refer to

Socket

Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles

in this section.

Allen Wrenches

Allen wrenches (Figure 17) are used on fasteners with

hexagonal recesses in the fastener head. These wrenches
are available in L-shaped bar, socket and T-handle types.
Allen bolts are sometimes called socket bolts or setscrews.

Torque Wrenches

A torque wrench (Figure 18) is used with a socket,

torque adapter or similar extension to tighten a fastener to
a measured torque. Torque wrenches come in several
drive sizes (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4) and have various meth-

10

CHAPTER ONE

13

14

15

16

ods for reading the torque value. The drive size indicates
the size of the square drive that accepts the socket, adapter
or extension. Common methods for reading the torque
value are the reflecting beam, the dial indicator and the au-
dible click.

When choosing a torque wrench, consider the torque

range, drive size and accuracy. The torque specifications in
this manual provide an indication of the range required.

A torque wrench is a precision tool that must be properly

cared for to remain accurate. Store torque wrenches in cases
or separate padded drawers within a toolbox. Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions for their care and calibration.

Torque Adapters

Torque adapters or extensions extend or reduce the reach

of a torque wrench. The torque adapter shown in

Figure 19

is used to tighten a fastener that cannot be reached due to
the size of the torque wrench head, drive, and socket. If a
torque adapter changes the effective lever length (

Figure

20

), the torque reading on the wrench will not equal the ac-

tual torque applied to the fastener. It is necessary to
recalibrate the torque setting on the wrench to compensate
for the change of lever length. When a torque adapter is
used at a right angle to the drive head, calibration is not re-
quired, since the effective length has not changed.

To recalculate a torque reading when using a torque

adapter, use the following formula, and refer to

Figure 20

.

TW = TA ×L

L + A

TW is the torque setting or dial reading on the wrench.
TA is the torque specification and the actual amount of

torque that will be applied to the fastener.

A is the amount that the adapter increases (or in some

cases reduces) the effective lever length as measured along
the centerline of the torque wrench.

L is the lever length of the wrench as measured from the

center of the drive to the center of the grip.

The effective length is the sum of L and A.
Example:
TA = 20 ft.-lb.
A = 3 in.
L = 14 in.
TW = 20 ×14 = 280 = 16.5 ft.-lb.

14 + 3

17

GENERAL INFORMATION

11

1

17

18

19

20

L

L

L

L

A

A

L + A = Effective lever length

L = Effective lever length

No calculation needed

In this example, the torque wrench would be set to the re-

calculated torque value (TW = 16.5 ft.-lb.) . When using a
beam-type wrench, tighten the fastener until the pointer
aligns with 16.5 ft.-lb. In this example, although the torque
wrench is preset to 16.5 ft.-lb., the actual torque is 20 ft.-lb.

Pliers

Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes. Pliers are

useful for holding, cutting, bending, and crimping. Do not
use them to turn fasteners. Figure 21 and Figure 22 show
several types of pliers. Each design has a specialized func-
tion. Slip-joint pliers are general-purpose pliers used for
gripping and bending. Diagonal cutting pliers are needed to
cut wire and can be used to remove cotter pins. Needlenose
pliers are used to hold or bend small objects. Locking pliers
(Figure 22), sometimes called Vise-grips, are used to hold
objects very tightly. They have many uses ranging from
holding two parts together, to gripping the end of a broken
stud. Use caution when using locking pliers, as the sharp
jaws will damage the objects they hold.

Snap Ring Pliers

WARNING

Snap rings can slip and fly off when removing
and installing them. Also, the snap ring pliers
tips may break. Always wear eye protection
when using snap ring pliers.

Snap ring pliers are specialized pliers with tips that fit

into the ends of snap rings to remove and install them.

Snap ring pliers are available with a fixed action (either

internal or external) or convertible (one tool works on both
internal and external snap rings). They may have fixed tips
or interchangeable ones of various sizes and angles. For
general use, select a convertible type of pliers with
interchangeable tips.

Hammers

Various types of hammers (Figure 23) are available to fit

a number of applications. A ball-peen hammer is used to
strike another tool, such as a punch or chisel. Soft-faced
hammers are required when a metal object must be struck
without damaging it.

Never

use a metal-faced hammer on

engine and suspension components, as damage will occur.

Always wear eye protection when using hammers. Make

sure the hammer face is in good condition and the handle is
not cracked. Select the correct hammer for the job and make
sure to strike the object squarely. Do not use the handle or
the side of the hammer to strike an object.

MEASURING TOOLS

The ability to accurately measure components is essential

to successfully complete many procedures in this manual.
Equipment is manufactured to close tolerances, and obtain-
ing consistently accurate measurements is essential to de-
termining which components require replacement or
further service.

Each type of measuring instrument is designed to mea-

sure a dimension with a certain degree of accuracy and
within a certain range. When selecting the measuring tool,
make sure it is applicable to the task. Refer to Figure 24 for
a comprehensive measuring set.

As with all tools, measuring tools provide the best results

if cared for properly. Improper use can damage the tool and

12

CHAPTER ONE

21

22

23

result in inaccurate results. If any measurement is question-
able, verify the measurement using another tool. A standard
gauge is usually provided with measuring tools to check ac-
curacy and calibrate the tool if necessary.

Precision measurements can vary according to the expe-

rience of the person performing the procedure. Accurate re-
sults are only possible if the mechanic possesses a feel for
using the tool. Heavy-handed use of measuring tools will
produce less accurate results. Hold the tool gently by the
fingertips so the point at which the tool contacts the object
is easily felt. This feel for the equipment will produce more
accurate measurements and reduce the risk of damaging the
tool or component. Refer to the following sections for
specific measuring tools.

Feeler Gauge

The feeler or thickness gauge (Figure 25) is used for

measuring the distance between two surfaces.

A feeler gauge set consists of an assortment of steel strips

of graduated thickness. Each blade is marked with its thick-
ness. Blades can be of various lengths and angles for differ-
ent procedures.

A common use for a feeler gauge is to measure valve

clearance. Wire (round) type gauges are used to measure
spark plug gap.

Calipers

Calipers (Figure 26) are excellent tools for obtaining in-

side, outside and depth measurements. Although not as pre-
cise as a micrometer, they allow reasonable precision,
typically to within 0.001 in. (0.05 mm). Most calipers have
a range up to 6 in. (150 mm).

Calipers are available in dial, vernier or digital versions.

Dial calipers have a dial readout that provides convenient
reading. Vernier calipers have marked scales that must be
compared to determine the measurement. The digital cali-
per uses a LCD to show the measurement.

Properly maintain the measuring surfaces of the caliper.

There must not be any dirt or burrs between the tool and the
object being measured. Never force the caliper closed
around an object; close the caliper around the highest point
so it can be removed with a slight drag. Some calipers re-
quire calibration. Always refer to the manufacturer’s in-
structions when using a new or unfamiliar caliper.

To read a vernier caliper refer to Figure 27. The fixed

scale is marked in 0.001 in. increments. Forty individual

GENERAL INFORMATION

13

1

24

25

26

27

10.00 mm

0.50 mm

10.50 mm

Fixed
scale

0.400 in.
0.013 in.
0.413 in.

Moveable scales

lines on the fixed scale equal 1 in. The moveable scale is
marked in 0.01 mm (hundredth) increments. To obtain a
reading, establish the first number by the location of the 0
line on the movable scale in relation to the first line to the
left on the fixed scale. In this example, the number is 0.400
in. To determine the next number, note which of the lines on
the movable scale align with a mark on the fixed scale. A
number of lines will seem close, but only one will align ex-
actly. In this case, 0.013 in. is the reading to add to the first
number. The result of adding 0.400 in. and 0.013 in. is a
measurement of 0.413 in.

Micrometers

A micrometer is an instrument designed for linear mea-

surement using the decimal divisions of the inch or meter
(Figure 28). While there are many types and styles of mi-
crometers, most of the procedures in this manual call for an
outside micrometer. The outside micrometer is used to mea-
sure the outside diameter of cylindrical forms and the
thickness of materials.

A micrometer’s size indicates the minimum and maxi-

mum size of a part that it can measure. The usual sizes (Fig-
ure 29) are 0-1 in. (0-25 mm), 1-2 in. (25-50 mm), 2-3 in.
(50-75 mm) and 3-4 in. (75-100 mm).

Micrometers that cover a wider range of measurements

are available. These use a large frame with interchangeable
anvils of various lengths. This type of micrometer offers a
cost savings; however, its overall size may make it less
convenient.

Adjustment

Before using a micrometer, check its adjustment as fol-

lows.
1. Clean the anvil and spindle faces.
2A. To check a 0-1 in. (0-25 mm) micrometer:

a. Turn the thimble until the spindle contacts the anvil.

If the micrometer has a ratchet stop, use it to ensure
that the proper amount of pressure is applied.

b. If the adjustment is correct, the 0 mark on the thimble

will align exactly with the 0 mark on the sleeve line.

If the marks do not align, the micrometer is out of ad-
justment.

c. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to adjust the

micrometer.

2B. To check a micrometer larger than 1 in. (25 mm) use the
standard gauge supplied by the manufacturer. A standard
gauge is a steel block, disc or rod that is machined to an ex-
act size.

a. Place the standard gauge between the spindle and an-

vil, and measure its outside diameter or length. If the

14

CHAPTER ONE

DECIMAL PLACE VALUES*

0.1

Indicates 1/10 (one tenth of an inch

or millimeter)

0.010

Indicates 1/100 (one one-hundreth of

an inch or millimeter)

0.001

Indicates 1/1000 (one one-thousandth

of an inch or millimeter)

*This chart represents the values of figures placed to the right of the decimal point. Use it when reading decimals from

one-tenth to one one-thousandth of an inch or millimeter. It is not a conversion chart (for example: 0.001 in. is not
equal to 0.001 mm).

28

29

30

STANDARD

INCH MICROMETER

Anvil

Spindle

Locknut

Sleeve line

Thimble marks

Sleeve

Thimble
numbers

Ratchet

Frame

micrometer has a ratchet stop, use it to ensure that the
proper amount of pressure is applied.

b. If the adjustment is correct, the 0 mark on the thimble

will align exactly with the 0 mark on the sleeve line.
If the marks do not align, the micrometer is out of ad-
justment.

c. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to adjust the

micrometer.

Care

Micrometers are precision instruments. They must be

used and maintained with great care. Note the following:
1. Store micrometers in protective cases or separate pad-
ded drawers in a toolbox.
2. When in storage, make sure the spindle and anvil faces
do not contact each other or another object. If they do, tem-
perature changes and corrosion may damage the contact
faces.
3. Do not clean a micrometer with compressed air. Dirt
forced into the tool will cause wear.
4. Lubricate micrometers to prevent corrosion.

Reading

When reading a micrometer, numbers are taken from dif-

ferent scales and added together.

For accurate results, properly maintain the measuring

surfaces of the micrometer. There can not be any dirt or
burrs between the tool and the measured object. Never
force the micrometer closed around an object. Close the mi-
crometer around the highest point so it can be removed with
a slight drag. Figure 30 shows the markings and parts of a
standard inch micrometer. Be familiar with these terms be-
fore using a micrometer in the follow sections.

Standard inch micrometer

The standard inch micrometer is accurate to one-thou-

sandth of an inch or 0.001. The sleeve is marked in 0.025 in.
increments. Every fourth sleeve mark is numbered 1, 2, 3,

4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. These numbers indicate 0.100, 0.200, 0.300,
and so on.

The tapered end of the thimble has twenty-five lines

marked around it. Each mark equals 0.001 in. One complete
turn of the thimble will align its zero mark with the first
mark on the sleeve or 0.025 in.

When reading a standard inch micrometer, perform the

following steps while referring to Figure 31.

1. Read the sleeve and find the largest number visible.
Each sleeve number equals 0.100 in.

2. Count the number of lines between the numbered sleeve
mark and the edge of the thimble. Each sleeve mark equals
0.025 in.

3. Read the thimble mark that aligns with the sleeve line.
Each thimble mark equals 0.001 in. If a thimble mark does
not align exactly with the sleeve line, estimate the amount
between the lines. For accurate readings in ten-thousandths
of an inch (0.0001 in.), use a vernier inch micrometer.

4. Add the readings from Steps 1-3.

Vernier inch micrometer

A vernier inch micrometer is accurate to one ten-thou-

sandth of an inch or 0.0001 in. It has the same marking as a
standard inch micrometer with an additional vernier scale
on the sleeve. The vernier scale consists of 11 lines marked
1-9 with a 0 on each end. These lines run parallel to the
thimble lines and represent 0.0001 in. increments.

When reading a vernier inch micrometer, perform the

following steps while referring to Figure 32.

1. Read the micrometer in the same way as a standard mi-
crometer. This is the initial reading.

2. If a thimble mark aligns exactly with the sleeve line,
reading the vernier scale is not necessary. If they do not
align, read the vernier scale in Step 3.

3. Determine which vernier scale mark aligns with one
thimble mark. The vernier scale number is the amount in
ten-thousandths of an inch to add to the initial reading from
Step 1.

GENERAL INFORMATION

15

1

Thimble

Sleeve

1. Largest number visible on the

sleeve line

0.200 in.

2. Number on sleeve marks visible

between the numbered sleeve mark
and the thimble edge

0.025 in.

3. Thimble mark that aligns with

sleeve line

0.006 in.

Total reading

0.231 in.

31

Telescoping and Small Bore Gauges

Use telescoping gauges (Figure 33) and small hole

gauges (Figure 34) to measure bores. Neither gauge has a
scale for direct readings. An outside micrometer must be
used to determine the reading.

To use a telescoping gauge, select the correct size gauge

for the bore. Compress the movable post and insert the
gauge into the bore. Move the gauge in the bore to make
sure it is centered. Tighten the knurled end of the gauge to
hold the movable post in position. Remove the gauge and
measure the length of the posts. Telescoping gauges are
typically used to measure cylinder bores.

To use a small-bore gauge, select the correct size gauge

for the bore. Insert the gauge into the bore. Tighten the
knurled end of the gauge to carefully expand the gauge fin-
gers to the limit within the bore. Do not overtighten the
gauge, as there is no built-in release. Excessive tightening
can damage the bore surface and damage the tool. Remove
the gauge and measure the outside dimension (Figure 35).
Small hole gauges are typically used to measure valve
guides.

Dial Indicator

A dial indicator (Figure 36) is a gauge with a dial face

and needle used to measure variations in dimensions and
movements. Measuring brake rotor runout is a typical use
for a dial indicator.

Dial indicators are available in various ranges and gradu-

ations and with three basic types of mounting bases: mag-
netic, clamp, or screw-in stud.

Cylinder Bore Gauge

A cylinder bore gauge is similar to a dial indicator. The

gauge set shown in Figure 37 consists of a dial indicator,
handle, and different length adapters (anvils) to fit the
gauge to various bore sizes. The bore gauge is used to mea-

16

CHAPTER ONE

Thimble

Sleeve

Thimble

Sleeve

Vernier scale

Vernier scale

1. Largest number visible on

sleeve line

0.100 in.

2. Number of sleeve marks visible

between the number sleeve mark
and the thimble edge

0.050 in.

3. Thimble is between 0.018 and 0.019

in. on the sleeve line

0.018 in.

4. Vernier line coinciding with

thimble line

0.0003 in.

Total reading

0.1683 in.

32

33

34

sure bore size, taper and out-of-round. When using a bore
gauge, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Compression Gauge

A compression gauge (Figure 38) measures combustion

chamber (cylinder) pressure, usually in psi or kg/cm

2

. The

gauge adapter is either inserted or screwed into the spark
plug hole to obtain the reading. Disable the engine so it will
not start and hold the throttle in the wide-open position
when performing a compression test. An engine that does
not have adequate compression cannot be properly tuned.
Refer to Chapter Three.

Multimeter

A multimeter (Figure 39) is an essential tool for electri-

cal system diagnosis. The voltage function indicates the
voltage applied or available to various electrical compo-
nents. The ohmmeter function tests circuits for continuity,
or lack of continuity, and measures the resistance of a
circuit.

Some manufacturers’ specifications for electrical com-

ponents are based on results using a specific test meter. Re-
sults may vary if a meter not recommend by the manu-
facturer is used. Such requirements are noted when
applicable.

Each time an analog ohmmeter is used or if the scale is

changed, the ohmmeter must be calibrated.

Digital ohmmeters do not require calibration.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS

A thorough study of the many types of electrical systems

used in today’s motorcycles is beyond the scope of this
manual. However, a basic understanding of electrical ba-
sics is necessary to perform diagnostic tests.

GENERAL INFORMATION

17

1

35

36

37

38

39

Voltage

Voltage is the electrical potential or pressure in an electri-

cal circuit and is expressed in volts. The more pressure
(voltage) in a circuit, the more work that can be performed.

Direct current (DC) voltage means the electricity flows

in one direction. All circuits powered by a battery are DC
circuits.

Alternating current (AC) means that the electricity flows

in one direction momentarily then switches to the opposite
direction. Alternator output is an example of AC voltage.
This voltage must be changed or rectified to direct current
to operate in a battery powered system.

Resistance

Resistance is the opposition to the flow of electricity

within a circuit or component and is measured in ohms. Re-
sistance causes a reduction in available current and voltage.

Resistance is measured in a inactive circuit with an ohm-

meter. The ohmmeter sends a small amount of current into
the circuit and measures how difficult it is to push the cur-
rent through the circuit.

An ohmmeter, although useful, is not always a good indi-

cator of a circuit’s actual ability under operating conditions.
This is due to the low voltage (6-9 volts) that the meter uses
to test the circuit. The voltage in an ignition coil secondary
winding can be several thousand volts. Such high voltage
can cause the coil to malfunction, even though it tests ac-
ceptable during a resistance test.

Resistance generally increases with temperature. Per-

form all testing with the component or circuit at room tem-
perature. Resistance tests performed at high temperatures
may indicate high resistance readings and result in the un-
necessary replacement of a component.

Amperage

Amperage is the unit of measure for the amount of cur-

rent within a circuit. Current is the actual flow of electricity.
The higher the current, the more work that can be per-
formed up to a given point. If the current flow exceeds the
circuit or component capacity, the system will be damaged.

SERVICE METHODS

Most of the procedures in this manual are straightforward

and can be performed by anyone reasonably competent
with tools. However, consider personal capabilities care-
fully before attempting any operation involving major dis-
assembly.
1. Front, in this manual, refers to the front of the motorcy-
cle. The front of any component is the end closest to the
front of the motorcycle. The left and right sides refer to the
position of the parts as viewed by the rider sitting on the
seat facing forward.

2. Whenever servicing an engine or suspension compo-
nent, secure the motorcycle in a safe manner.

3. Tag all similar parts for location and mark all mating
parts for position. Record the number and thickness of any
shims as they are removed. Identify parts by placing them
in sealed and labeled plastic sandwich bags.

4. Tag disconnected wires and connectors with masking
tape and a marking pen. Do not rely on memory alone.

5. Protect finished surfaces from physical damage or cor-
rosion. Keep gasoline and other chemicals off painted
surfaces.

6. Use penetrating oil on frozen or tight bolts. Avoid using
heat where possible. Heat can warp, melt or affect the tem-
per of parts. Heat also damages the finish of paint and plas-
tics.

7. When a part is a press fit or requires a special tool for re-
moval, the information or type of tool is identified in the
text. Otherwise, if a part is difficult to remove or install, de-
termine the cause before proceeding.

8. To prevent objects or debris from falling into the engine,
cover all openings.

9. Read each procedure thoroughly and compare the illus-
trations to the actual components before starting the proce-
dure. Perform the procedure in sequence.

10. Recommendations are occasionally made to refer ser-
vice to a dealership or specialist. In these cases, the work
can be performed more economically by the specialist, than
by the home mechanic.

11. The term

replace

means to discard a defective part and

replace it with a new part.

Overhaul

means to remove, dis-

assemble, inspect, measure, repair and/or replace parts as
required to recondition an assembly.

12. Some operations require the use of a hydraulic press. If
a press is not available, have these operations performed by
a shop equipped with the necessary equipment. Do not use
makeshift equipment that may damage the motorcycle.

13. Repairs are much faster and easier if the motorcycle is
clean before starting work. Degrease the motorcycle with a
commercial degreaser; follow the directions on the con-
tainer for the best results. Clean all parts with cleaning sol-
vent as they are removed.

18

CHAPTER ONE

40

CAUTION

Do not direct high-pressure water at steering
bearings, carburetor hoses, wheel bearings,
suspension and electrical components. The
water will force the grease out of the bearings
and possibly damage the seals.

14. If special tools are required, have them available be-
fore starting the procedure. When special tools are re-
quired, they will be described at the beginning of the
procedure.

15. Make diagrams of similar-appearing parts. For in-
stance, crankcase bolts are often not the same lengths. Do
not rely on memory alone. It is possible that carefully laid
out parts will become disturbed, making it difficult to reas-
semble the components correctly without a diagram.

16. Make sure all shims and washers are reinstalled in the
same location and position.

17. Whenever rotating parts contact a stationary part, look
for a shim or washer.

18. Use new gaskets if there is any doubt about the condi-
tion of old ones.

19. If self-locking fasteners are removed, replace them
with new ones. Do not install standard fasteners in place of
self-locking ones.
20. Use grease to hold small parts in place if they tend to
fall out during assembly. Do not apply grease to electrical
or brake components.

Ignition Grounding

Modern motorcycle ignition systems produce sufficient

voltage to damage ignition components if the secondary
voltage is not grounded during operation. During normal
operation, grounding of the secondary circuit occurs at the
spark plug. When performing some tests, such as compres-
sion testing, it may be necessary to disconnect the spark
plug cap from the spark plug. It is a good practice to ground
a disconnected spark plug cap to the engine if the ignition is
on, and may be required by some manufacturers to protect
the ignition system.

A grounding device may be fabricated to route secondary

circuit voltage to the engine. Figure 40 shows a tool that is
useful when grounding a single spark plug cap, and Figure
41 shows a grounding strap that allows the grounding of
several spark plug caps. Both tools use a stud or bolt that
fits the spark plug connector in the spark plug cap. An alli-
gator clip permits electrical connection to suitable points on
the engine.

Removing Frozen Fasteners

If a fastener cannot be removed, several methods may be

used to loosen it. First, apply penetrating oil liberally and
let it soak for 10-15 minutes. Rap the fastener several times
with a small hammer. Do not hit it hard enough to cause
damage. Reapply the penetrating oil if necessary.

For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as described,

then insert a screwdriver in the slot and rap the top of the
screwdriver with a hammer. This loosens the rust so the
screw can be removed in the normal way. If the screw head
is too damaged to use this method, grip the head with lock-
ing pliers and twist the screw out.

Avoid applying heat unless specifically instructed, as it

may melt, warp or remove the temper from parts.

Removing Broken Fasteners

If the head breaks off a screw or bolt, several methods are

available for removing the remaining portion. If a large por-
tion of the remainder projects out, try gripping it with lock-
ing pliers. If the projecting portion is too small, file it to fit a
wrench or cut a slot in it to fit a screwdriver.

If the head breaks off flush, use a screw extractor. To do

this, centerpunch the exact center of the remaining portion
of the screw or bolt (A, Figure 42). Drill a small hole in the
screw (B, Figure 42) and tap the extractor into the hole (C).

GENERAL INFORMATION

19

1

41

42

Back the screw out with a wrench on the extractor (D, Fig-
ure 42).

Repairing Damaged Threads

Occasionally, threads are stripped through carelessness

or impact damage. Often the threads can be repaired by run-
ning a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or die (for external
threads on bolts) through the threads (Figure 43). To clean
or repair spark plug threads, use a spark plug tap.

If an internal thread is damaged, it may be necessary to

install a Helicoil or some other type of thread insert. Follow
the manufacturer’s instructions when installing their insert.

If it is necessary to drill and tap a hole, refer to Table 9 or

Table 10 for appropriate tap and drill sizes.

Stud Removal/Installation

A stud removal tool (Figure 44) makes the removal and

installation of studs easier. If one is not available, thread
two nuts onto the stud and tighten them against each other.
Remove the stud by turning the lower nut.
1. Measure the height of the stud above the surface.
2. Thread the stud removal tool onto the stud and tighten it.
3. Remove the stud by turning the stud remover.
4. Remove any threadlocking

compound

from the

threaded hole. Clean the threads with an aerosol parts
cleaner.
5. Install the stud removal tool onto the new stud.
6. Apply threadlocking compound to the threads of the
stud.
7. Install the stud and tighten.
8. Install the stud to the height noted in Step 1 or to its
torque specification.
9. Remove the stud removal tool or the two nuts.

Removing Hoses

When removing stubborn hoses, do not exert excessive

force on the hose or fitting. Remove the hose clamp and
carefully insert a small screwdriver or pick tool between the
fitting and hose. Apply a spray lubricant under the hose and
carefully twist the hose off the fitting. Clean the fitting of
any corrosion or rubber hose material with a wire brush.
Clean the inside of the hose thoroughly. Do not use any lu-
bricant when installing the hose (new or old). The lubricant
may allow the hose to come off the fitting, even with the
clamp secure.

Bearings

Bearings are used in the engine and transmission assem-

bly to reduce power loss, heat and noise resulting from fric-
tion. Because bearings are precision parts, they must be
maintained with proper lubrication and maintenance. If a

20

CHAPTER ONE

43

Tap

Die

44

45

Bearing puller

Spacer

Shaft

Bearing

bearing is damaged, replace it immediately. When install-
ing a new bearing, take care to prevent damaging it. Bear-
ing replacement procedures are included in the individual
chapters where applicable; however, use the following
sections as a guideline.

NOTE

Unless otherwise specified, install bearings
with the manufacturer’s mark or number fac-
ing out.

Removal

While bearings are normally removed only when dam-

aged, there may be times when it is necessary to remove a
bearing that is in good condition. However, improper bear-
ing removal will damage the bearing and maybe the shaft or
case half. Note the following when removing bearings.
1. When using a puller to remove a bearing from a shaft,
take care that the shaft is not damaged. Always place a
piece of metal between the end of the shaft and the puller
screw. In addition, place the puller arms next to the inner
bearing race (Figure 45).
2. When using a hammer to remove a bearing from a shaft,
do not strike the hammer directly against the shaft. Instead,
use a brass or aluminum spacer between the hammer and
shaft (Figure 46) and make sure to support both bearing
races with wooden blocks as shown.
3. The ideal method of bearing removal is with a hydraulic
press. Note the following when using a press:

a. Always support the inner and outer bearing races

with a suitable size wooden or aluminum spacer (Fig-
ure 47). If only the outer race is supported, pressure
applied against the balls and/or the inner race will
damage them.

b. Always make sure the press arm (Figure 47) aligns

with the center of the shaft. If the arm is not centered,
it may damage the bearing and/or shaft.

c. The moment the shaft is free of the bearing, it will

drop to the floor. Secure or hold the shaft to prevent it
from falling.

Installation

1. When installing a bearing in a housing, apply pressure
to the

outer

bearing race (Figure 48). When installing a

bearing on a shaft, apply pressure to the

inner

bearing race

(Figure 49).
2. When installing a bearing as described in Step 1, some
type of driver is required. Never strike the bearing directly
with a hammer or the bearing will be damaged. When in-

GENERAL INFORMATION

21

1

46

Spacer

Shaft

Bearing

Blocks

47

Press arm

Shaft

Bearing

Spacer

Press bed

48

Bearing

Housing

49

Bearing

Shaft

stalling a bearing, use a piece of pipe or a driver (Figure 50)
with a diameter that matches the bearing inner race.
3. Step 1 describes how to install a bearing in a case half or
over a shaft. However, when installing a bearing over a
shaft and into the housing at the same time, a tight fit will be
required for both outer and inner bearing races. In this situ-
ation, install a spacer underneath the driver tool so that
pressure is applied evenly across both races (Figure 51). If
the outer race is not supported as shown, the balls will push
against the outer bearing race and damage it.

Interference fit

1. Follow this procedure when installing a bearing over a
shaft. When a tight fit is required, the bearing inside diame-
ter will be smaller than the shaft. In this case, driving the
bearing on the shaft using normal methods may cause bear-
ing damage. Instead, heat the bearing before installation.
Note the following:

a. Secure the shaft so it is ready for bearing installation.
b. Clean all residues from the bearing surface of the

shaft. Remove burrs with a file or sandpaper.

c. Fill a suitable pot or beaker with clean mineral oil.

Place a thermometer rated above 248

°

F (120

°

C) in

the oil. Support the thermometer so that it does not
rest on the bottom or side of the pot.

d. Remove the bearing from its wrapper and secure it

with a piece of heavy wire bent to hold it in the pot.
Hang the bearing in the pot so it does not touch the
bottom or sides of the pot.

e. Turn the heat on and monitor the thermometer. When

the oil temperature rises to approximately 248

°

F

(120

°

C), remove the bearing from the pot and

quickly install it. If necessary, place a socket on the
inner bearing race and tap the bearing into place. As
the bearing chills, it will tighten on the shaft, so in-
stallation must be done quickly. Make sure the bear-
ing is installed completely.

2. Follow this step when installing a bearing in a housing.
Bearings are generally installed in a housing with a slight
interference fit. Driving the bearing into the housing using
normal methods may damage the housing or cause bearing
damage. Instead, heat the housing before the bearing is in-
stalled. Note the following:

CAUTION

Before heating the housing in this procedure,
wash the housing thoroughly with detergent
and water. Rinse and rewash the cases as re-
quired to remove all traces of oil and other
chemical deposits.

a. Heat the housing to approximately 212

°

F (100

°

C) in

an oven or on a hot plate. An easy way to check that it
is the proper temperature is to place tiny drops of wa-
ter on the housing; if they sizzle and evaporate imme-

diately, the temperature is correct. Heat only one
housing at a time.

CAUTION

Do not heat the housing with a propane or
acetylene torch. Never bring a flame into con-
tact with the bearing or housing. The direct
heat will destroy the case hardening of the
bearing and will likely warp the housing.

22

CHAPTER ONE

50

Driver

Bearing

Shaft

51

Driver

Spacer

Bearing

Housing

Shaft

b. Remove the housing from the oven or hot plate, and

hold onto the housing with protective gloves

NOTE

Remove and install the bearings with a suit-
able size socket and extension.

c. Hold the housing with the bearing side down and tap

the bearing out. Repeat for all bearings in the hous-
ing.

d. Before heating the bearing housing, place the new

bearing in a freezer if possible. Chilling a bearing
slightly reduces its outside diameter while the heated
bearing housing assembly is slightly larger due to
heat expansion. This will make bearing installation
easier.

NOTE

Always install bearings with the manufac-
turer’s mark or number facing outward.

e. While the housing is still hot, install the new bear-

ing(s) into the housing. Install the bearings by hand,
if possible. If necessary, lightly tap the bearing(s) into
the housing with a socket placed on the outer bearing
race (Figure 48). Do not install new bearings by driv-
ing on the inner-bearing race. Install the bearing(s)
until it seats completely.

Seal Replacement

Seals (Figure 52) are used to contain oil, water, grease or

combustion gasses in a housing or shaft. Improper removal
of a seal can damage the housing or shaft. Improper instal-
lation of the seal can damage the seal. Note the following:
1. Prying is generally the easiest and most effective
method of removing a seal from the housing. However, al-
ways place a rag underneath the pry tool (Figure 53) to pre-
vent damage to the housing.
2. Pack waterproof grease in the seal lips before the seal is
installed.
3. In most cases, install seals with the manufacturer’s num-
bers or marks face out.
4. Install seals with a socket placed on the outside of the
seal as shown in Figure 54. Drive the seal squarely into the
housing until it is flush. Never install a seal by hitting
against the top of the seal with a hammer.

STORAGE

Several months of non-use can cause a general deteriora-

tion of the motorcycle. This is especially true in areas of ex-
treme temperature variations. This deterioration can be
minimized with careful preparation for storage. A properly
stored motorcycle will be much easier to return to service.

Location

When selecting a storage area, consider the following:

1. The storage area must be dry. A heated area is best, but
not necessary. It should be insulated to minimize extreme
temperature variations.
2. If the building has large window areas, mask them to
keep sunlight off the motorcycle.
3. Avoid buildings in industrial areas where corrosive
emissions may be present. Avoid areas close to saltwater.

GENERAL INFORMATION

23

1

Oil

Spring

Dust lip

Main lip

Reinforcement

52

53

54

4. Consider the area’s risk of fire, theft or vandalism.
Check with an insurer regarding motorcycle coverage
while in storage.

Preparation

The amount of preparation a motorcycle should undergo

before storage depends on the expected length of non-use,
storage area conditions and personal preference. Consider
the following list the minimum requirement:
1. Wash the motorcycle thoroughly. Make sure all dirt,
mud and road debris are removed.
2. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating tempera-
ture. Drain the engine oil, and transmission oil, regardless
of the riding time since the last service. Fill the engine and
transmission with the recommended type of oil.
3. Drain all fuel from the fuel tank. Run the engine until all
the fuel is consumed from the lines and carburetor.
4. Drain the fuel from the carburetor as follows:

a. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Eight.
b. Open the drain screw and thoroughly drain the fuel

from the float bowl into a suitable container.

c. Move the choke knob to the full open position.
d. Operate the start button and try to start the engine.

This will draw out all remaining fuel from the jets.

5. Remove the spark plugs and pour a teaspoon of engine
oil into the cylinders. Place a rag over the openings and
slowly turn the engine over to distribute the oil. Reinstall
the spark plugs.

6. Remove the battery. Store the battery in a cool and dry
location.

7. Cover the exhaust and intake openings.

8. Reduce the normal tire pressure by 20 percent.

9. Apply a protective substance to the plastic and rubber
components, including the tires. Make sure to follow the
manufacturer’s instructions for each type of product being
used.

10. Place the motorcycle on a stand or wooden blocks, so
the wheels are off the ground. If this is not possible, place a
piece of plywood between the tires and the ground. Inflate
the tires to the recommended pressure if the motorcycle can
not be elevated.

11. Cover the motorcycle with old bed sheets or something
similar. Do not cover it with any plastic material that will
trap moisture.

Returning the Motorcycle to Service

The amount of service required when returning a motor-

cycle to service after storage depends on the length of
non-use and storage conditions. In addition to performing
the reverse of the above procedure, make sure the brakes,
clutch, throttle and engine stop switch work properly be-
fore operating the motorcycle. Refer to Chapter Three and
evaluate the service intervals to determine which areas
require service.

Table 1 MODEL DESIGNATIONS

XLH883 (1986-2003 models)
XLH883 CUSTOM (1999-2003 models)
XLH883 DELUXE (1986-1995 models)
XLH883 HUGGER (1987-2003 models)
XL883R (2002-2003 models)
XLH1100 (1986-1987 models)
XLH1200 (1988-2003 models)
XL1200 CUSTOM (1996-2003 models)
XL1200 SPORT (1996-2003 models)

Table 2 GENERAL DIMENSIONS

XLH883, XLH883 Deluxe

Wheelbase

1986-2001 models

60.2 in. (1529 mm)

2002-2003 models

60.0 in. (1524 mm)

Length

1986-2001 models

87.6 in. (2225 mm)

2002-2003 models

88.1 in. (2238 mm)

(continued)

24

CHAPTER ONE