Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual — page 42

Disassembly

1. Remove the caliper as described in this section.

2. Remove the caliper body bolts (Figure 140) loosened
during the removal procedure.

3. Separate the caliper body halves. Remove the O-rings
(Figure 141). New O-rings must be installed every time the
caliper is disassembled.

NOTE

If the pistons were partially forced out of the
caliper body during removal, steps 4-6 may
not be necessary. If the pistons or caliper
bores are corroded or very dirty, a small
amount of compressed air may be necessary
to completely remove the pistons from the
body bores.

4. Place a piece of soft wood and a folded shop cloth over
the end of the pistons and the caliper body. Turn the assem-
bly over and place it on the workbench with the pistons fac-
ing down.

WARNING

Compressed air forces the pistons out of the
caliper body under considerable force. Do
not block the piston by hand as injury will
occur.

BRAKES

573

16

139

REAR BRAKE CALIPER (2000-2003 MODELS)

1. Pad pin
2. Bleed valve
3. Outboard caliper body
4. Piston seal
5. Dust seal
6. Piston
7. Anti-rattle spring
8. Brake pad
9. Inboard caliper body

10. O-ring
11. Bridge bolt
12. Rubber bumper

140

141

5. Apply the air pressure in short spurts to the brake fluid
passageway to force out the pistons. Repeat this for the
other caliper body half.

CAUTION

Do not use a sharp tool to remove the dust
and piston seals from the caliper cylinders.
Do not damage the cylinder surface.

6. Use a piece of wood or a plastic scraper to carefully push
the dust seal and the piston seal in toward the caliper cylinder
and out of their grooves. Remove the dust and piston seals.
7. If necessary, unscrew and remove the bleed valve (Fig-
ure 142).
8. Inspect the caliper as described in this section.

Inspection

1. Clean both caliper body halves and pistons in new DOT
5 brake fluid or isopropyl alcohol and dry them with com-
pressed air.
2. Make sure the fluid passageways (Figure 143) in the
piston bores are clear by applying compressed air to the
openings. Flush them, if necessary, with new brake fluid.
3. Make sure the fluid passageways (Figure 144) in both
caliper body halves are clear by applying compressed air to
the openings. Flush them, if necessary, with new brake
fluid.
4. Inspect the piston and dust seal grooves in both caliper
bodies for damage. If they are damaged or corroded, re-
place the caliper assembly.
5. Inspect the banjo bolt threaded hole in the caliper body.
If it is worn or damaged, clean it out with a thread tap or re-
place the caliper assembly.
6. Inspect the bleed valve threaded hole in the caliper body.
If it is worn or damaged, clean it out with a thread tap or re-
place the caliper assembly.
7. Inspect the bleed valve. Apply compressed air to the
opening and make sure it is clear. Flush it, if necessary, with
new brake fluid. Install the bleed valve and tighten 80-100
in.-lb. (9-11 N•m).
8. Inspect both caliper bodies for damage. Check the in-
board caliper mounting bolt hole threads (Figure 145) for
wear or damage. Renew them with a thread tap or replace
the caliper.
9. Inspect the cylinder walls and pistons for scratches,
scoring or other damage.
10. Check the anti-rattle spring for wear or damage.

Assembly

WARNING

Never reuse old dust seals or piston seals.

1. Soak the new dust and piston seals in new DOT 5 brake fluid.
2. Coat the piston bores and pistons with new DOT 5 brake
fluid.

3. Install the new piston seals into the lower grooves. Make
sure the seals are properly seated in their respective
grooves.

4. Install the new dust seals into the upper grooves. Make
sure all seals are properly seated in their respective grooves.

5. Repeat Step 3 and Step 4 for the other caliper body half.

6. Position the pistons with the open end facing out and in-
stall the pistons into the caliper cylinders. Push the pistons
in until they bottom.

7. Repeat Step 6 for the other caliper body half. Make sure
all pistons are installed correctly.

8. Coat the new O-ring seals with new DOT 5 brake fluid
and install the O-rings into the inboard caliper half.

574

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

142

143

144

9. Install the anti-rattle spring (Figure 146) onto the boss
on the outboard caliper half.
10. Make sure the O-rings are still in place and assemble
the caliper body halves.
11. Install the caliper body bolts (Figure 140) and tighten
them securely. They will be tightened to the specified
torque after the caliper is installed on the rear disc.
12. Install a new rubber caliper bumper (Figure 147) if it
was removed.
13. Install the bleed valve assembly (Figure 142) if it was
removed and tighten it to 80-100 in.-lb. (9-11 N•m).
14. Install the caliper as described in this section.
15. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 28-38 ft.-lb.
(38-52 N•m).

16. Bleed the brakes as described in this chapter.

REAR MASTER CYLINDER

(1986-EARLY 1987 MODELS)

Review

Brake Service

in this chapter.

Refer to Figure 148.

Removal/Installation

1. Open the bleed valve (Figure 149). Attach one end of a
hose to the bleed valve and insert the opposite end in an
empty container. Drain the brake fluid as described in this
chapter.
2. Remove the bolts (Figure 150) securing the master cyl-
inder to the sprocket cover.
3. Disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder.
4. Pull the master cylinder clear of the pushrod.
5. Remove the cupped washer (14, Figure 148), spring (15)
and rubber boot (16).
6. Install by reversing the preceding removal steps while
noting the following.
7. Slide the rubber boot (16, Figure 148) over the pushrod.
Turn the boot so that its drain hole faces down.
8. Slide the spring (15, Figure 148) and cupped washer
(14) through the pushrod and into the boot.
9. Hold the master cylinder in one hand and align the master
cylinder piston with the pushrod (Figure 151). Then align
the master cylinder body with the cover mounting holes and
install the mounting bolts (Figure 150). Tighten the bolts to
155-190 in.-lb. (18-21 N•m).
10. Install the brake hose onto the master cylinder. Tighten
the hose securely.
11. Bleed the brake system as described in this chapter.
12. Adjust the rear brake as described in Chapter Three.

Disassembly

1. Remove the master cylinder cover and diaphragm.
2. Remove the retaining ring (13, Figure 148) from the
body. Then remove the following parts in order:

a. Piston assembly (12, Figure 148).
b. Piston cup (10, Figure 148).
c. Spring seat (9, Figure 148).
d. Spring (8, Figure 148).

3. Remove the seal (11, Figure 148) from the piston.

Inspection

1. Clean all parts in new DOT 5 brake fluid. Inspect the cyl-
inder bore and piston contact surfaces for signs of wear or
damage. If either part is less than perfect, replace it.
2. Check the end of the piston for wear caused by the
pushrod. Replace the entire piston assembly if any portion
of it is worn or damaged.

BRAKES

575

16

145

146

147

576

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

148

REAR MASTER CYLINDER

(1986-EARLY 1987 MODELS)

1. Screw
2. Cover
3. Diaphragm
4. Brake line
5. Housing
6. Lockwasher
7. Bolt
8. Spring
9. Spring seat

10. Piston cup
11. Seal
12. Piston
13. Snap ring
14. Cupped washer
15. Spring
16. Rubber boot
17. Pushrod
18. Nut
19. Rod end
20. Pin
21. Snap ring
22. Brake pedal
23. Cotter pin
24. Adjusting screw
25. Locknuts

3. Make sure the passages in the bottom of the master cylin-
der are clear. Check the reservoir cap and diaphragm for
damage and deterioration. Replace if necessary.
4. Inspect the threads in the master cylinder body where the
brake line screws in. If the threads are damaged, replace the
master cylinder body.

Assembly

1. Soak the new cups in new DOT 5 brake fluid for at least
15 minutes to make them pliable. Coat the inside of the cyl-
inder with new brake fluid before assembling the parts.
2. Install a new seal (11, Figure 148) on the piston.
3. Push the spring seat (9, Figure 148) into the spring (8).
Then install the assembly into the cylinder bore.

4. Slide the piston cup (10, Figure 148) into the bore and
over the spring seat (9).
5. Install the piston assembly (12, Figure 148) into the bore
and install the retaining ring (13) into the housing groove.

REAR MASTER CYLINDER

(LATE 1987-2003 MODELS

Review

Brake Service

in this chapter.

Refer to Figure 152.

Removal

1. Drain the brake fluid as described in this chapter.
2. Place shop towels under the banjo bolt (Figure 153) and
remove the fitting and the washers securing the brake hose
to the master cylinder. Plug the end of the brake hose and
put it in a plastic bag to prevent leaks and to keep out con-
tamination.
3. Remove the bolts (Figure 154) securing the master cyl-
inder to the sprocket cover.
4. Loosen the rod end locknut (A, Figure 155). Then turn
the pushrod (B, Figure 155) until it is free of the rod end (C).
5. Remove the master cylinder.

Installation

1. Slide the boot (D, Figure 155) over the pushrod. Turn
the boot so that the drain hole faces down.
2. Position the master cylinder next to the sprocket cover.
Thread the rod end (C, Figure 155) into the pushrod (B)
Tighten the locknut (A, Figure 155) securely.
3. Align the master cylinder holes with the sprocket cover
threaded holes and install the master cylinder mounting
bolts and washers (Figure 154). Tighten the bolts to
155-190 in.-lb. (18-21 N•m).

NOTE

Some models are equipped with a solid metal
washer on each side of the banjo bolt. Later
models are equipped with steel/rubber wash-
ers (

Figure 156

). Be sure to install new wash-

ers that match the old washers.

4. Install a new washer (Figure 156) on each side of the
brake hose banjo fitting. Insert the banjo bolt through the
washers and banjo fitting as shown in Figure 157. Thread
the bolt (Figure 153) into the cartridge locknut. Tighten the
banjo nut to 17-22 ft.-lb. (23-30 N•m).
5. Bleed the rear brake as described in this chapter.
6. Adjust the rear brake as described in Chapter Three.

WARNING

Do not ride the motorcycle until the brakes
operate properly.

BRAKES

577

16

149

150

151

578

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

152

REAR MASTER CYLINDER

(LATE 1987-2003 MODELS)

1. Banjo bolt
2. Banjo bolt washers
3. Brake hose
4. Cartidge locknut
5. Bolt
6. Washer
7. Master cylinder housing
8. Diaphragm
9. Cover

10. Screw
11. O-rings
12. Cartirdge body
13. Pushrod
14. Spacer

15. Snap ring
16. Spring
17. Retainer
18. Rubber boot
19. Flat washer
20. Snap ring
21. Nut
22. Clevis
23. Rod end
24. Pin
25. Brake pedal
26. Nut
27. Circlip

Disassembly

1. Remove the master cylinder cover and diaphragm.
2. Press down on the large washer (A, Figure 158) and
compress the spring. Then remove the snap ring (B, Figure
158) from the pushrod groove. Remove the large washer,
rubber boot, retainer (inside boot) and spring (Figure 159).

CAUTION

Do not damage the pushrod when loosening
the locknut.

3. Loosen and remove the cartridge locknut (Figure 160).
4. Withdraw the cartridge body (Figure 161) and pushrod
assembly from the master cylinder housing.
5. Remove the snap ring (Figure 162) from inside the car-
tridge bore.

BRAKES

579

16

155

156

157

158

159

154

153

6. Pull the pushrod (A, Figure 163) and spacer (B) out of
the cartridge.
7. Do not remove the O-rings from the cartridge body
grooves unless replacement is required. The O-rings are
available only as part of the master cylinder body and mas-
ter cylinder repair kits. They cannot be purchased
separately.
8. Further disassembly of the cartridge body is not recom-
mended. While the piston and spring can be removed from
the cartridge body, do not remove them as the piston cups,
mounted on the piston, may be damaged. If the piston or
any of its components (spring and pistons cups) are dam-
aged, replace the cartridge body.

Inspection

1. Clean the master cylinder and cartridge body in new
DOT 5 brake fluid. Make sure the reservoir vent hole (Fig-
ure 164) is clear.
2. Inspect the master cylinder bore (Figure 165). If the
bore is cracked, corroded, scratched or damaged, replace
the master cylinder assembly.
3. Check the reservoir cap and diaphragm for damage and
deterioration. Replace if necessary.
4. Inspect the pushrod (A, Figure 163). If the pushrod is
bent, cracked, corroded or damaged, replace it.
5. Inspect the cartridge body and the two O-rings (Figure
163). If the cartridge body threads or O-ring grooves are
damaged, replace the cartridge body. Do not remove the
piston assembly from the cartridge body.

Assembly

1. Wash the parts in clean DOT 5 brake fluid. Clean the
cartridge body O-ring grooves with a soft brush.
2. Slide the spacer (B, Figure 163) onto the pushrod (A)
and install the pushrod into the cartridge body with the ball
end first. Then push the pushrod down to compress the pis-
ton and spring and install the snap ring (Figure 162) into
the groove in the cartridge body. Release the pushrod and
make sure the circlip is fully seated in the groove. Make
sure the pushrod rotates freely after releasing it.
3. Lubricate the two new cartridge body O-rings with
brake fluid and install them into the cartridge body O-ring
grooves.
4. Lightly coat the cartridge body with brake fluid. Then
insert the cartridge body (Figure 161) into the master cylin-
der bore with the threaded end first. Align the slot on the
cartridge body with the key in the master cylinder body
(Figure 166). Push the cartridge body through the master
cylinder until it bottoms.
5. Install and tighten the cartridge body locknut (Figure
160) to 30-40 ft.-lb. (41-54 N•m).
6. Place the master cylinder housing in a vise with soft
jaws so that the pushrod faces up.

580

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

160

161

162

163

7. Install the spring and the spring retainer over the
pushrod. Install the rubber boot, with the large end first,
over the pushrod and slide over the spring retainer and
spring. Then seat the spring retainer into the small end of
the rubber boot. Turn the rubber boot so that the drain hole
will be facing down when the master cylinder is installed on
the motorcycle. Refer to Figure 159.
8. Slide the large flat washer over the pushrod and rest it
against the rubber boot. Then push the washer down to
compress the spring and install a new snap ring in the
pushrod groove (Figure 158). Make sure the snap ring
seats in the groove completely. Release the spring and al-
low the large washer to seat against the snap ring.
9. Install the master cylinder as described in this section.

WARNING

Do not ride the motorcycle until the brakes
operate properly.

BRAKE HOSE AND LINE REPLACEMENT

Review

Brake Service

in this chapter.

A combination of steel and flexible brake lines are used

to connect the master cylinder to the brake caliper. Banjo
bolts are used to connect brake hoses to the master cylinder
or brake calipers. A threaded fitting connects the brake line
to the rear master cylinder and rear brake caliper on
1986-early 1987 models. Steel/rubber banjo washers (Fig-
ure 167) are used to seal the hose fittings, except on early
models which may use all-metal washers. Be sure to install
new banjo bolt washers that match the old washers, other-
wise, leaks may occur.

While there is no factory-recommended replacement in-

terval for the brake hoses, it is a good idea to replace a hose
when the flexible portion shows signs of swelling, cracking
or other damage. Likewise, the brake hose should be re-
placed when the metal portion leaks or if there are dents or
cracks.

Front Brake Hose
Removal/Installation

A combination steel/flexible brake hose (Figure 168) is

used to connect the front master cylinder to the front brake
caliper.

When purchasing a new hose, compare it to the old hose

to make sure that the length and angle of the steel hose por-
tion is correct. Install new banjo bolt washers that match the
old washers.
1. Drain the brake fluid from the front brake system as de-
scribed in this chapter.
2. Before removing the brake line, note how the brake line
is routed from the master cylinder to the caliper. In addition,
note the number and position of the metal hose clamps and
plastic ties used to hold the brake line in place. Install the

BRAKES

581

16

164

165

166

167

582

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

168

FRONT BRAKE HOSE

ASSEMBLY

To master cylinder

To brake caliper

1. Banjo bolt
2. Washer
3. Hose

169

170

171

172

brake hose following the same path and secured at the same
position.

3. Cut the plastic ties and discard them. New plastic ties
must be installed.

4. Remove the screw or nut holding the metal clamps
around the brake line. Spread the clamp and remove it from
the brake line. See Figure 169 and Figure 170, typical. The
metal clamps can be reused.

CAUTION

After disconnecting the brake hose, plug the
open ends and put them in plastic bags to pre-
vent spills and to keep out contamination.

5. Remove the banjo bolt and washers securing the hose at
the brake caliper (Figure 171).

6. Remove the banjo bolt and washers securing the hose at
the master cylinder (Figure 172).

7. Remove the brake hose from the motorcycle.

8. If reusing the brake hose assembly, inspect it as fol-
lows:

a. Check the metal pipe portion for cracks or fractures.

Check the junction where the metal pipe enters and
exits the flexible hose. Check the crimped clamp for
looseness or damage.

b. Check the flexible hose portion for swelling, cracks

or other damage.

c. Replace the hose assembly, if necessary.

9. Install the brake hose, banjo bolt washers and the banjo
bolt in the reverse order of removal. Install the banjo bolt
washers on both sides of the banjo hose fitting; see Figure
168. The hose must not be twisted or kinked.

10. Install the clips and guides to hold the brake hose in
place.

11. Tighten the banjo bolts to 17-22 ft.-lb. (23-30 N•m).

12. Refill the master cylinder with new DOT 5 brake fluid
as described in Chapter Three.

13. Bleed the brake system as described in this chapter.

WARNING

Do not ride the motorcycle until the brakes
operate properly.

Rear Brake Hose
Removal/Installation

A single combination steel/flexible brake hose (Figure

173) is used to connect the rear master cylinder to the rear
brake caliper.

BRAKES

583

16

173

REAR BRAKE HOSE ASSEMBLY

1. Bolt
2. Washer

(1991-1994 models)

3. Clamp
4. Lockwasher

(1991-1994 models)

5. Screw
6. Lockwasher
7. Clamp
8. Brake hose assembly
9. Rear brake light switch

10. Rubber boot
11. Clip nut
12. Clamp
13. Lockwasher
14. Screw
15. Banjo bolt

(late 1987-2003 models)

16. Washers

(late 1987-2003 models)

17. Master cylinder

When purchasing a new hose, compare it to the old hose

to make sure that the length and angle of the steel hose por-
tion is correct. Install banjo bolt washers (Figure 167) that
match the old washers.
1. Drain the hydraulic brake fluid from the rear brake sys-
tem as described in this chapter.
2. Before removing the brake line, note how the brake line
(Figure 174, typical) is routed from the master cylinder to
the caliper. In addition, note the number and position of the
metal hose clamps and plastic ties used to hold the brake
line in place. Install the brake hose following the same path
and secured at the same position.
3. Cut the plastic ties and discard them. New plastic ties
must be installed.
4. Remove the screw or nut holding the metal clamps
around the brake line. Spread the clamp and remove it from
the brake line. The metal clamps can be reused.

CAUTION

After disconnecting the brake hose plug the
open ends and put them in plastic bags to pre-
vent leaks and to keep out dirt.

5. Remove the banjo bolt and washers securing the hose at
the brake caliper (Figure 175).
6. Remove the banjo bolt and washers securing the hose at
the master cylinder (Figure 176).
7. Disconnect the rear brake light switch electrical connec-
tors at the switch (Figure 177).
8. Remove the brake hose from the motorcycle.
9. If reusing the brake hose assembly, inspect it as follows:

a. Check the metal pipe portion for cracks or fractures.

Check the junction where the metal pipe enters and
exits the flexible hose. Check the crimped clamp for
looseness or damage.

b. Check the flexible hose portion for swelling, cracks

or other damage.

c. Replace the hose assembly, if necessary.

10. If necessary, remove the rear brake light switch from
the tee fitting in the rear brake line (Figure 173). Reverse to
install the switch. Tighten the rear brake light switch to
84-120 in.-lb. (9-14 N•m).
11. Install a new brake hose, banjo bolt washers in the re-
verse order of removal. Be sure to install new sealing wash-
ers on both sides of the hose fitting. See Figure 176 and
Figure 178.
12. Refill the master cylinder with new DOT 5 brake fluid.
13. Bleed the rear brake system as described in this chap-
ter.

WARNING

Do not ride the motorcycle until the brakes
operate properly.

BRAKE DISC

Review

Brake Service

in this chapter.

584

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

174

175

176

177

A single brake disc is bolted to the front and rear wheels

except on 1200S, which is equipped with two brake discs
mounted on the front wheel. Brake discs should be checked
for runout and thickness. The minimum disc thickness is
stamped on original equipment brake discs (Figure 179).
Table 1 lists disc brake specifications.

Removal/Installation

CAUTION

Do not set the wheel down on the brake disc
surface, as it may be damaged.

1. Remove the front or rear wheel as described in Chapter
Thirteen.

NOTE

Place a spacer between the brake pads in
place of the disc. If the brake lever is inadver-
tently applied, the pistons will not be forced
out of the caliper. If the pistons are forced out,
disassemble the caliper and reseat the pistons
as described in this chapter.

2. Remove the bolts and locknuts securing the brake disc
to the hub and remove the disc. See Figure 180, typical.

3. Check the brake disc bolts and locknuts for thread dam-
age. Replace worn or damaged fasteners.

4. Clean the disc and the disc mounting surface with brake
cleaner or contact cleaner. Allow surfaces to dry before in-
stallation.

5. To install the front brake disc perform the following:

a. On 1986-1994 models, align the notch in the disc

with the 1/4 in. (6.3 mm) diameter hole in the hub and
install the disc; see A, Figure 181.

b. Install new T-40 Torx bolts (B, Figure 181). Tighten

to the bolts to 16-24 ft.-lb. (22-33 N•m).

6A. To install the rear brake disc on 1986-1991 models per-
form the following:

a. On cast wheels, install new bolts and tighten them to

23-27 ft.-lb. (31-37 N•m).

b. On laced wheels, install new bolts and locknuts and

tighten them to 23-27 N•m (31-37 ft.-lb.).

6B. To install the rear brake disc on 1992-2003 models per-
form the following:

a. The Torx bolts (Figure 182) used to secure the rear

brake disc were originally equipped with a patch of
thread locking compound. The manufacturer speci-
fies that these bolts can be used for three removal and
installation cycles. After the third cycle, discard the
bolts and install a new set.

b. On cast wheels, install bolts and tighten to 30-45

ft.-lb. (41-61 N•m).

c. On laced wheels, install the bolts and locknuts.

Tighten to 30-45 ft.-lb. (41-61 N•m).

BRAKES

585

16

178

179

180

181

Inspection

It is not necessary to remove the disc from the wheel to

inspect it. Small marks on the disc are not important, but ra-
dial scratches deep enough to snag a fingernail reduce brak-
ing effectiveness and increase brake pad wear. If these
grooves are found, the disc should be resurfaced or
replaced.
1. Measure the thickness around the disc at several loca-
tions (Figure 183). The disc must be replaced if the thick-
ness at any point is less than the minimum thickness
stamped on the disc (Figure 179). Refer to Table 1 for
thickness specifications.
2. Clean any rust or corrosion off the disc and wipe clean
with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner. Never use an
oil-based solvent that may leave an oil residue on the disc.

BLEEDING

WARNING

Do not ride the motorcycle until the brakes
are operating correctly.

WARNING

Dispose of the brake fluid expelled during the
bleeding process. Do not reuse brake fluid.

NOTE

These procedures are shown on the front
wheel and apply to the rear wheel as well.

NOTE

Some calipers are equipped with two bleed
screws. Perform the bleeding procedure for
both bleed screws.

NOTE

Before bleeding the brake, make sure all
brake hoses and lines are tight.

NOTE

If bleeding is difficult, allow the fluid to stabi-
lize for a few hours. Repeat the bleeding pro-
cedure when the tiny bubbles in the system
settle out.

NOTE

Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to
empty during the bleeding operation or more
air will enter the system. If this occurs, repeat
the procedure.

General Bleeding Tips

When bleeding the brakes, not the following:

1. Review

Brake Service

in this chapter.

2. Clean the bleed valves and the area around the valves of
debris. Make sure the passageways in the end of the bleed
valves are clear and open.

3. Use a box-end wrench to open and close the bleed
valves. This helps prevent damages to the valves.
4. Replace damaged bleed valves.
5. Install the box-end wrench on the bleed valve before in-
stalling the catch hose. This allows the wrench to remain in
place during the procedure.
6. Use a clear plastic hose to allow visual inspection of the
brake fluid as it leaves the caliper. Air bubbles visible in the
catch hose indicate air in the brake system.
7. Depending on the play of the bleed valve when it is loos-
ened, it may be possible to see air in the catch hose even
though no air is in the system. A loose or damaged catch
hose can also cause air leaks. In both cases, air is being in-
troduced into the hose at the bleed valve threads and the
catch hose connection, and not from within the brake sys-
tem.
8. Open the bleed valve just enough to allow fluid to pass
through the valve and into the catch bottle. The farther the
bleed valve is opened, the looser the valve becomes. This
allows air to be drawn into the system from around the
valve threads.
9. If air is suspected of entering from around the bleed
valve threads, pack the area around the valve with silicone
brake grease.

WARNING

Do not force grease into the caliper past the
bleed valve threads. This can block the bleed

586

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

182

183

valve passageways and contaminate the
brake fluid.

10. If the system is difficult to bleed, lightly tap the banjo
bolt on the master cylinder a few times. It is not uncommon
for air bubbles to become trapped in this hose connection
where the brake fluid exits the master cylinder. When a
number of bubbles appear in the master cylinder reservoir
after tapping the banjo bolt, it means air is trapped in this
area.
11. When the front master cylinder cover is removed and
brake fluid is in the reservoir, brake fluid can spurt out of
the reservoir any time the lever is operated. To prevent this,
make sure to leave the reservoir cover in place except when
filling it with fluid.
12. When adding brake fluid to the reservoir, do not allow
fluid to enter the cover bolt holes. This fluid leaks out when
the cover bolts are installed and tightened. Before installing
the cover, inspect the holes for fluid and remove any resid-
ual fluid.

Vacuum Bleeding

This one-person procedure uses a hydraulic brake bleed-

ing tool (Figure 184, typical).
1. Support the motorcycle on a suitable stand.
2. Remove the cap (Figure 185) from the caliper bleed
valve.

3. Place a clean shop cloth over the caliper to protect it
from accidental brake fluid spills.
4. Assemble the bleeding tool according to the manufac-
turer’s instructions. Connect it to the caliper bleed valve
(Figure 185).
5. Clean the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Refer to Chapter Three and verify that the master cylin-
der reservoir is full.
7. Operate the pump several times to create a vacuum in
the line. Open the bleed valve. Brake fluid will quickly
draw from the caliper into the bleed tool reservoir. Tighten
the caliper bleed valve before the fluid stops flowing
through the hose. To prevent air from being drawn into the
system through the master cylinder, add fluid to maintain its
level at the top of the reservoir.
8. Continue the bleeding process until the fluid drawn
from the caliper is bubble free. If bubbles are withdrawn
with the brake fluid, more air is trapped in the line. Repeat
Step 7 while being sure to refill the master cylinder to pre-
vent air from being drawn into the system.
9. When the brake fluid is free of bubbles, tighten the bleed
valve and remove the brake bleeder tool. Reinstall the bleed
valve cap.
10. If necessary, add fluid to correct the level in the master
cylinder reservoir as described in Chapter Three.
11. On 1200S models, repeat Steps 1-10 for the other front
brake caliper.
12. Reinstall the reservoir diaphragm, diaphragm plate and
cover.
13. Test the feel of the brake lever or pedal. It must be firm
and offer the same resistance each time it is operated. If it
feels spongy, air is still in the system and it must be bled
again. After bleeding the system, check for leaks and
tighten all fittings and connections as necessary.
14. Test ride the motorcycle slowly at first to make sure
that the brakes are operating properly.

Manual Bleeding

1. Support the motorcycle on a suitable stand.
2. Remove the dust cap (Figure 185) from the caliper
bleed valve.
3. Place a clean shop cloth over the caliper to protect it
from accidental brake fluid spills.
4. Clean the top of the master cylinder reservoir of all dirt
and foreign matter.
5. Refer to Chapter Three and verify that the master cylin-
der reservoir is full.
6. Connect a length of clear tubing to the bleed valve on the
caliper (Figure 185). Place the other end of the tube into a
clean container (Figure 186). Fill the container with
enough new DOT 5 brake fluid to keep the end of the tube
submerged. The tube must be long enough so that a loop
can be made higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from
being drawn into the caliper during bleeding.

BRAKES

587

16

184

185

7. Slowly apply the brake lever or brake pedal several
times. Hold the lever in the applied position and open the
bleed valve about 1/2 turn. Allow the lever to travel to its
limit. When the limit is reached, tighten the bleed valve,
then release the brake lever. As the brake fluid enters the
system, the level will drop in the master cylinder reservoir.
Maintain the full fluid level in the reservoir to prevent air
from being drawn into the system.

8. Continue the bleeding process until the fluid coming
from the hose is completely free of air bubbles. If the fluid
is being replaced, continue until the fluid emerging from
the hose is clean.

9. Hold the lever in the applied position and tighten the
bleed valve. Remove the bleed tube and install the bleed
valve dust cap.

10. If necessary, adjust the fluid level in the master cylin-
der reservoir as described in Chapter Three.

11. On 1200S models, repeat Steps 1-10 for the other cali-
per.

12. Install the diaphragm, diaphragm plate and cover.

13. Test the feel of the brake lever or pedal. It must be firm
and offer the same resistance each time it is operated. If it
feels spongy, it is likely that there is still air in the system
and it must bleed it again. After bleeding the system check
for leaks and tighten all fittings and connections as
necessary.

14. Test ride the motorcycle slowly at first to make sure
that the brakes are operating properly.

BRAKE FLUID DRAINING

Before disconnecting a brake hose from the front or rear

brake, drain the brake fluid as described in this section. Do-
ing so reduces the amount of brake fluid that can spill out
when disconnecting the brake hoses and lines from the
system.

Review

Brake Service

in this chapter. Review

Brake

Bleeding

in this chapter.

Front Brake Lever Line

1. Support the motorcycle on a suitable stand.

2. Turn the handlebars to level the front master cylinder
and remove the reservoir cover (Figure 187), diaphragm
plate and diaphragm.

3A. Attach a vacuum bleeding tool as described in

Bleed-

ing the System

in this chapter.

3B. Attch a tube to the bleed valve and submerge the tube
into a container as described in

Bleeding the System

in this

chapter.

4A. Open the bleed valve and operate the vacuum bleeder
tool to draw out as much of the fluid as possible from the
brake line.

4B. Open the bleed valve and apply the brake lever to
pump to force brake fluid from the line.

588

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

186

Catch hose

Box-end wrench

Catch bottle

187

188

189