Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual — page 6

4. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve. Mo-
mentarily connect a fully charged 12-volt battery to the
starter as shown in Figure 7. If the starter is operational, it
will turn when connected to the battery. Disconnect the bat-
tery and note the following:

a. If the starter turns, perform the solenoid pull-in and

hold-in tests as described in

Solenoid Testing (Bench

Tests)

in this section.

b. If the starter does not turn, disassemble the starter as

described in Chapter Twelve, and check it for opens,
shorts and grounds.

5. Check for voltage at the starter button. Note the follow-
ing:

a. If there is voltage at the starter button, test the starter

relay as described in this section.

b. If there is no voltage at the starter button, check conti-

nuity across the starter button. If there is voltage lead-
ing to the starter button but no voltage leaving the
starter button, replace the button switch and retest. If
there is no voltage leading to the starter button, check
the starter button wiring for dirty or loose-fitting ter-
minals or damaged wiring; clean and/or repair as re-
quired.

Starter spins but does not engage

If the starter spins but the pinion gear does not engage the

clutch shell ring gear, perform the following:

1. Remove the primary drive cover as described in Chapter
Six or Chapter Seven.

2. Check the starter pinion gear (A, Figure 8). If the
teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the clutch shell ring
gear (B, Figure 8) for the same problems. Note the fol-
lowing:

a. If the starter pinion gear or clutch ring gear is dam-

aged, service the parts.

b. If the starter pinion gear and clutch shell ring gear are

not damaged, continue with Step 3.

3. Remove and disassemble the starter as described in
Chapter Twelve. Then check the overrunning clutch assem-
bly (Figure 9) for the following:

a. Roller damage (Figure 10).

b. Compression spring damage (A, Figure 11).

c. Excessively worn or damaged pinion teeth (A, Fig-

ure 8).

d. Pinion does not run in overrunning direction.

e. Damaged clutch shaft splines (B, Figure 11).

f. Damaged overrunning clutch assembly (Figure

12).

4. Replace worn or damaged parts as required.

TROUBLESHOOTING

37

2

8

9

10

11

Starter will not disengage
after the start button is released

1. A sticking solenoid, caused by a worn solenoid com-
pression spring (A, Figure 11), can cause this problem. Re-
place the solenoid if damaged.
2. On high-mileage motorcycles, the starter pinion gear
(A, Figure 8) can jam on a worn clutch ring gear (B). Un-
able to return, the starter will continue to run. This condi-
tion usually requires ring gear replacement.
3. Check the start button switch and starter relay for inter-
nal damage. Test the start switch as described in the

Switches

section in Chapter Twelve. Test the starter relay as

described in this chapter.

Loud grinding noises when the starter turns

Incorrect starter pinion gear and clutch shell ring gear en-

gagement (B, Figure 8) or a broken overrunning clutch
mechanism (Figure 12) can cause this problem. Remove
and inspect the starter as described in Chapter Twelve.

Starter stalls or spins too slowly

1. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery and so-
lenoid terminals as described in this section. The normal
voltage drop is less than 1 volts. Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 1 volt, continue with

Step 2.

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 1 volt, check the solenoid

and battery wires and connections for dirty or
loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as required.

2. Perform a voltage drop test between the solenoid termi-
nals and the starter. The normal voltage drop is less than 1
volt. Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 1 volt, continue with

Step 3.

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 1 volt, check the solenoid

and starter wires and connections for dirty or
loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as required.

3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery ground
wire and the starter as described. The normal voltage drop
is less than 0.2 volts. Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 0.2 volts, continue

with Step 4.

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 0.2 volts, check the bat-

tery ground wire connections for dirty or loose-fitting
terminals; clean and repair as required.

4. Refer to

Starter Current Draw Tests

in this section and

perform the first test. Note the following:

a. If the current draw is excessive, check for a damaged

starter. Remove the starter as described in Chapter
Twelve and perform the second test.

b. If the current draw reading is correct, continue with

Step 5.

5. Remove the primary drive cover as described in Chapter
Six or Chapter Seven. Check the starter pinion gear (A,
Figure 8). If the teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the
clutch ring gear (B, Figure 8) for the same problem.

a. If the starter pinion gear or clutch ring gear is dam-

aged, service it.

b. If the starter pinion gear and clutch ring gear are not

damaged, continue with Step 6.

6. Remove and disassemble the starter as described in
Chapter Twelve. Check the disassembled starter for opens,
shorts and grounds.

Starter Current Draw Tests

The following current draw test measures the current

(amperage) the starter circuit requires to crank over the en-
gine. Refer to Table 1 for current draw specifications.

38

CHAPTER TWO

12

13

Inductive

ammeter

Solenoid

Starter

Battery

A short circuit in the starter or a damaged pinion gear as-

sembly can cause excessive current draw. If the current
draw is low, suspect an undercharged battery or an open cir-
cuit in the starting circuit.

Current draw test (starter installed)

NOTE

This test requires a fully charged battery and
an inductive ammeter.

1. Shift the transmission into neutral.

2. Disconnect the two spark plug caps from the spark
plugs. Then ground the plug caps with two extra spark

plugs or grounding tool. Do not remove the spark plugs
from the cylinder heads.
3. Connect an inductive ammeter between the starter ter-
minal and positive battery terminal (Figure 13). Connect a
jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to ground
(Figure 13).
4. Turn the ignition switch on and press the start button for
approximately ten seconds. Note the ammeter reading.

NOTE

The current draw is high when the start but-
ton is first pressed, then it will drop and stabi-
lize at a lower reading. Refer to the lower
stabilized reading during this test.

5. If the current draw exceeds the specification in Table 1,
check for a defective starter or starter drive mechanism. Re-
move and service these components as described in Chap-
ter Twelve.
6. Disconnect the ammeter and jumper cables.

Current draw test (starter removed)

This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery, an in-

ductive ammeter, a jumper wire (14-gauge minimum) and
three jumper cables (6-gauge minimum).

Refer to Figure 14.

1. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve.

NOTE

The solenoid must be installed on the starter
during the following tests.

2. Mount the starter in a vise with soft jaws.
3. Connect the 14-gauge jumper cable between the posi-
tive battery terminal and the solenoid relay terminal.
4. Connect a jumper cable (6-gauge minimum) between
the positive battery terminal and the ammeter.
5. Connect the second jumper cable between the ammeter
and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid.
6. Connect the third jumper cable between the battery neg-
ative terminal and the starter motor mounting flange.
7. Read the ammeter; the maximum no-load current speci-
fication is 90 amps. A damaged pinion gear assembly will
cause an excessively high current draw reading. If the cur-
rent draw reading is low, check for an undercharged battery,
or an open field winding or armature in the starter.

Solenoid Testing (Bench Tests)

This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery and

three jumper wires.
1. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve.

NOTE

The solenoid (A,

Figure 15

) must be installed

on the starter during the following tests.

TROUBLESHOOTING

39

2

14

Ammeter

Relay

terminal

Battery
terminal

Battery

Starter

mounting

flange

15

2. Disconnect the field wire (B, Figure 15) from the sole-
noid before performing the following tests. Insulate the end
of the wire terminal so that it cannot short out on any of the
test connectors.

CAUTION

Because battery voltage is being applied di-
rectly to the solenoid and starter in the fol-
lowing tests, do not leave the jumper cables
connected to the solenoid for more than 5 sec-
onds; otherwise, the voltage will damage the
solenoid.

NOTE

Thoroughly read the following procedure to
become familiar with and understand the pro-
cedures and test connections, then perform
the tests in the order listed and without inter-
ruption.

3. Perform the solenoid pull-in test as follows:

a. Connect one jumper wire from the negative battery

terminal to the field wire terminal on the solenoid
(Figure 16).

b. Connect one jumper wire from the negative battery

terminal to the solenoid housing (ground) (Figure
16).

c. Touch a jumper wire from the positive battery termi-

nal to the starter relay terminal (Figure 16). The pin-
ion shaft (Figure 17) should pull into the housing.

d. Leave the jumper wires connected and continue with

Step 4.

4. To perform the solenoid hold-in test, perform the fol-
lowing:

a. With the pinion shaft pulled in (Step 3), disconnect

the field wire terminal jumper wire from the negative
battery terminal and connect it to the positive battery
terminal (Figure 18). The pinion shaft should remain
in the housing. If the pinion shaft returns to its origi-
nal position, replace the solenoid.

b. Leave the jumper wires connected and continue with

Step 5.

5. To perform the solenoid return test, perform the follow-
ing:

a. Disconnect the jumper wire from the starter relay ter-

minal (Figure 19); the pinion shaft should return to
its original position.

b. Disconnect all of the jumper wires from the solenoid

and battery.

6. Replace the solenoid if the starter shaft failed to operate
as described in Steps 3-5. Refer to the

Starter Solenoid

in

Chapter Twelve.

Starter Relay Removal/Testing/Installation

Check the starter relay operation with an ohmmeter,

jumper wires and a fully charged 12-volt battery.

1. Remove the starter relay as described in

Fuses

(1998-2003 Models)

in Chapter Twelve.

CAUTION

The battery negative lead must be connected
to the relay terminal No. 2 to avoid internal
diode damage.

40

CHAPTER TWO

16

Field wire

terminal

Solenoid

Starter

Relay

terminal

Battery

17

18

Field wire

terminal

Solenoid

Starter

Relay

terminal

Battery

Stator
Removal/Installation

The stator (Figure 32) is mounted behind the rotor and

bolted to the left crankcase.
1. Remove the rotor as described in this section.
2. On a piece of paper, draw a diagram of the stator wiring
harness frame routing path prior to removing the stator.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the stator lead
(Figure 33, typical).
4. Remove the cable retaining plate (Figure 34).
5. Remove the stator plate Torx screws (Figure 35). Dis-
card the Torx screws.
6. Remove the stator wiring grommet from the crankcase.
7. Remove the stator assembly and its attached wiring har-
ness (Figure 36).
8. Inspect the stator wires (Figure 37) for fraying or dam-
age. Check the stator connector pins for looseness or dam-
age. Replace the stator if necessary.
9. Installation is the reverse of the preceding removal steps
while noting the following.

a. Lightly coat the stator wiring grommet with engine

oil. Then insert the grommet (Figure 38) into the
crankcase.

CAUTION

New Torx screws must be used. The thread
locking compound originally applied to the
Torx screws is sufficient for one-time use only.
A loose Torx screw could back out and cause
alternator damage.

b. Install new stator Torx screws and tighten to 30-40

in.-lb. (3-4.5 N•m).

CAUTION

When bringing the wiring harness out from
underneath the gearcase cover, the harness
should be routed 1 1/2 in. (38 mm) forward
of the rear gearcase edge. This distance is
necessary to prevent the secondary drive
belt or sprocket from damaging the wiring
harness.

c. Following the routing diagram notes, route the stator

wiring harness along the frame. Secure the harness
with the proper cable straps.

d. Install the rotor as described in this section.

Voltage Regulator
Removal/Installation

The voltage regulator is mounted on the front frame

downtubes. See Figure 39 (1991-1993 models) or Figure
40 (1994-2003 models).

The voltage regulator cannot be rebuilt; if damaged it

must be replaced.

406

CHAPTER TWELVE

32

33

34

35

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
this chapter.

2. Note the voltage regulator wiring harness frame routing
path prior to removing the voltage regulator.

3A. On 1991-1993 models, perform the following:

a. Disconnect the voltage regulator-to-stator 2-pin wir-

ing connector (Figure 33, typical).

b. Disconnect the voltage regulator-to-circuit breaker

black wiring lead. This connector is mounted under-
neath the seat.

3B. On 1994-2003 models, perform the following:

a. Disconnect the voltage regulator-to-circuit breaker

2-pin wiring connector.

b. Disconnect the voltage regulalor-to-50 amp sin-

gle-pin Deutsch wiring connector (Figure 40).

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

407

12

36

37

38

39

40

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

(1994-2003 MODELS)

1. Nut
2. Lockwasher
3. Frame downtube
4. Single-pin connector

(charging wire to
main circuit breaker)

5. 2-pin connector

(voltage regulator to
alternator stator)

6. Lockwasher
7. Bolt
8. Voltage regulator

2. Connect an ohmmeter and 12-volt battery between the
relay terminals shown in Figure 20. This setup will ener-
gize the relay for testing.
3. Check for continuity through the relay contacts using an
ohmmeter while the relay coil is energized. The correct
reading is 0 ohm. If resistance is excessive or if there is no
continuity, replace the relay.
4. If the starter relay passes this test, reinstall the relay.

CHARGING SYSTEM

The charging system consists of the battery, alternator

and a solid state voltage regulator/rectifier.

The alternator generates alternating current (AC) which

the rectifier converts to direct current (DC). The regulator
maintains the voltage to the battery and load (lights, igni-
tion and accessories) at a constant voltage despite varia-
tions in engine speed and load.

A malfunction in the charging system generally causes

the battery to remain undercharged.

Service Precautions

Before servicing the charging system, observe the fol-

lowing precautions to prevent damage to any charging sys-
tem component:
1. Never reverse battery connections.
2. Do not short across any connection.
3. Never start the engine with the alternator disconnected
from the voltage regulator/rectifier unless instructed to do
so during testing.
4. Never attempt to start or run the engine with the battery
disconnected.
5. Never attempt to use a high-output battery charger to
help start the engine.
6. Before charging the battery, remove it from the motor-
cycle as described in Chapter Twelve.
7. Never disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier connec-
tor with the engine running. The voltage regulator/rectifier
(Figure 21) is mounted on the front frame cross member.
8. Do not mount the voltage regulator/rectifier unit in an-
other location.
9. Make sure the negative battery terminal is connected to
the terminal on the engine.

Troubleshooting Sequence

If the battery is discharged, perform the following proce-

dures as listed:
1. Test the battery as described in Chapter Twelve. Charge
the battery if necessary. If the battery will hold a charge
while riding, perform the

Charging System Output Test

as

described in this section.
2. If the charging system output is within specification, de-
termine the total amount of current demand by the electrical

TROUBLESHOOTING

41

2

19

Field wire

terminal

Solenoid

Starter

Relay

terminal

Battery

20

12-volt battery

Ohmmeter

86

85

87

30

21

system and all accessories as described in

Electrical System

Current Load Test

in this section.

3. If the charging system output exceeds the current demand
and the battery continues to not hold a charge, perform the

Battery Current Draw Test

as described in this section.

4. If the charging system output is not within specification,
test the stator and voltage regulator as described in this sec-
tion.

Charging System Output Test

This test requires a load tester. When using a load tester,

refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully charged.
2. Connect the load tester to the battery per the manufac-
turer’s instructions (Figure 22).
3. Start the engine and slowly bring the speed up to 3000
rpm while reading the load tester scale. With the engine
running at 3000 rpm, operate the load tester switch until the
voltage scale reads 13.0 volts. The tester should show a reg-
ulated (DC) current output reading of 19-23 amps.
4. With the engine still running at 3000 rpm, turn the load
off and read the load tester voltage scale. Battery voltage
should not exceed 15 volts. Turn the engine off and discon-
nect the load tester from the motorcycle.
5. Perform the

Stator Test

described in this section. If the

stator tests acceptable, a defective voltage regulator/recti-
fier or a wiring short circuit is indicated. Eliminate the pos-
sibility of a poor connection or damaged wiring before
replacing the voltage regulator/rectifier.

Electrical System Current Load Test

This test, requiring a load tester, measures the total cur-

rent load of the electrical system and any additional acces-
sories while the engine is running. Perform this test if the
battery is continually discharged, yet the charging system
output is within specifications.

If aftermarket electrical components have been added to

the motorcycle, the increased current demand may exceed
the charging systems capacity and result in a discharged
battery.
1. Connect a load tester to the battery per the manufac-
turer’s instructions. When using a load tester, refer to the
manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Turn the ignition switch on but do not start the engine.
Then turn on all electrical accessories and switch the head-
light beam to high.
3. Read the ampere reading (current draw) on the load
tester and compare it to the test results obtained in the

Charging System Output Test

in this section. The charging

system output test results (current reading) must exceed the
electrical system current load by 3.5 amps for the battery to
remain sufficiently charged.
4. If the current load is below specified levels and after-
market accessories have been added to the motorcycle, dis-

connect them and repeat Step 3. If the electrical system cur-
rent load is now within the specification, the problem is
with the additional accessories.

5. If no accessories have been added to the motorcycle, a
short circuit may be causing the battery to discharge.

42

CHAPTER TWO

22

Load tester

To circuit breaker

(DC output)

23

Ammeter

12 volt battery

Red

Black

To ground

Battery Current Draw Test

Perform this test if the battery will not hold a charge

when the motorcycle is not being used. A current draw that
exceeds 3.0 mA will discharge the battery. The battery must
be fully charged to perform this test.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
Chapter Twelve.

2. Connect an ammeter between the negative battery cable
end and the ground stud on the engine crankcase as shown
in Figure 23.

3. With the ignition switch, lights and all accessories
turned off, read the ammeter. If the current drain exceeds
3.0 mA, continue with Step 4.

4. Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram at the end of this
manual. Check the charging system wires and connectors
for shorts or other damage.
5. Unplug each electrical connector separately and check
for a reduction in the current draw. If the meter reading
changes after a connector is disconnected, the source of the
current draw has been found. Check the electrical connec-
tors carefully before testing the individual component.
6. After completing the test, disconnect the ammeter and
reconnect the negative battery cable.

Stator Test

1. With the ignition turned off, disconnect the regula-
tor/rectifier connector that is located below the rear of the
primary case (Figure 24) on 1986-1990 models or at the
front of the crankcase (Figure 25) on 1991-2003 models.
2. Connect an ohmmeter between either stator connector
terminal and ground (Figure 26). The ohmmeter should
read infinity (no continuity). If the reading is incorrect, the
stator is grounded and must be replaced. Repeat this test for
the other stator connector terminal.
3. Connect an ohmmeter between both stator connector
terminals. The ohmmeter should read 0.2-0.4 ohms. If the
resistance is higher than specified, replace the stator.
4. Check stator AC output as follows:

a. Connect an AC voltmeter between the stator connec-

tor terminals as shown in Figure 27.

b. Start the engine and slowly increase idle speed. On

1986-1990 models, the voltage should read 12-18
volts per each 1000 rpm. On 1991-1994 models, the
voltage should read 19-26 volts per each 1000 rpm.
On 1995-2003 models, voltage should read 38-52
volts at 2000 rpm.

TROUBLESHOOTING

43

2

24

Stator lead

Regulator lead

25

26

Ohmmeter

Regulator
lead

Stator lead

c. If the AC voltage output reading is below the pre-

scribed range, the trouble is probably a faulty stator
(Figure 28, typical) or rotor. If these parts are not
damaged, perform the

Charging System Output Test

in this section.

NOTE

On 1991-2003 models, if the stator AC output
test indicate a faulty stator, check the stator
wires where they are held in place by the flat
metal clamp plate shown in

Figure 29

. The

clamp plate may have rubbed through the
wire’s insulation.

5. Reconnect the regulator/rectifier connector.

Voltage Regulator Ground Test

1. Switch an ohmmeter to the appropriate scale.
2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine or frame
ground and the other ohmmeter lead to the regulator base.
Read the ohmmeter scale. The correct reading is 0 ohm.
Note the following:

a. If there is low resistance (0 ohm), the voltage regula-

tor is properly grounded.

b. If there is high resistance, remove the voltage regula-

tor and clean its frame mounting points.

3. Check the voltage regulator connector (1986-1990
models: Figure 24 or 1991-2003 models: Figure 25) and
make sure it is clean and tightly connected.

Voltage Regulator Bleed Test

1. Disconnect the voltage regulator connector (1986-1990
models: Figure 24 or 1991-2003 models: Figure 25). Do
not disconnect the wire from the voltage regulator to the
circuit breaker.
2. Connect one probe of a 12-volt test lamp to a good
ground.
3. Connect the other test lamp probe to one of the voltage
regulator pins, then to the other pin.
4. If the test lamp lights, replace the voltage regulator.
5. If the test lamp does not light the voltage regulator is
functioning properly. Reconnect the voltage regulator con-
nector.

IGNITION SYSTEM

(1986-1997 MODELS)

Precautions

The following steps must be taken to protect the ignition

system:
1. Never disconnect any of the electrical connectors while
the engine is running.
2. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of corrosion
and are completely coupled to each other.

3. Do not operate the start switch if the ignition module is
not grounded. The black ignition module wire is the ground
wire. Inspect the wire end for corrosion and damage. Be
sure the ignition module is mounted securely.

4. Apply dielectric grease to all electrical connectors prior
to reconnecting them. This helps seal out moisture.

44

CHAPTER TWO

27

AC voltmeter

Regulator
lead

Stator lead

28

29