Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual — page 14

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

133

CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM

1986-1992

models

1. Screw

(1991-1993 models)

2. O-ring

(1991-1993 models)

3A. Inspection cover

(1986-1990 models)

3B. Inspection cover

(1991-1993 models)

4. O-ring
5. Spring
6. Lockplate
7. Nut
8. Primary drive cover
9. Cable coupling

10. Outer ramp
11. Balls (3)
12. Inner ramp
13. Lockplate
14. Bolt
15. Clutch adjusting

screw assembly

16. Clutch cable

4. At the clutch mechanism, remove the spring and
lockplate assembly (Figure 63).
5. Turn the adjusting screw (Figure 64) counterclockwise
until it is lightly seated.
6. Turn the adjusting screw 1/4 turn clockwise.
7. Reinstall the spring and lockplate assembly (Figure 65)
so it fits inside the outer ramp recess. If necessary, turn the
adjusting screw clockwise until the flats on the lockplate fit
into the flats in the outer ramp.
8. Install the clutch inspection cover and O-ring.
9. Check the free play as follows:

a. At the inline cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away

from the jam nut until slack is eliminated at the clutch
hand lever.

b. Pull the clutch cable end away from the clutch lever,

then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain free play
(Figure 66) of 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6 mm).

c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch

inline cable jam nut.

1994-2003 models

1. Remove the clutch inspection cover (Figure 67) and
quad ring.
2. Slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable ad-
juster.
3. Loosen the adjuster jam nut (A, Figure 59) and turn the
adjuster (B) to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable ferrule seats squarely in the
lever housing receptacle (Figure 61) on the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, remove the spring and
lockplate assembly (A, Figure 68).
6. Turn the adjusting screw (Figure 69) counterclockwise
until it is lightly seated.
7. Turn the adjusting screw 1/4 turn clockwise.
8. Reinstall the spring and lockplate assembly (A, Figure
68) so it fits inside the outer ramp recess (B). If necessary,
turn the adjusting clockwise until the flats on the lockplate
fit into the flats in the outer ramp.
9. Be sure the quad ring is located in the primary drive
cover groove.
10. Install the inspection cover so the notch in the cover
fits over the cable boss on the primary drive cover. Tighten
the retaining screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12.0 N•m).
11. Check the free play as follows:

a. At the inline cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away

from the jam nut until slack is eliminated at the clutch
hand lever.

b. Pull the clutch cable end away from the clutch lever,

then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the
freeplay of 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm).

c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch

inline cable jam nut and slide the rubber boot over the
cable adjuster.

134

CHAPTER THREE

Shift Lever Adjustment
(1999-2003 883C and 1200C Models)

Refer to the

Forward Foot Controls

section in Chapter

Seventeen.

Throttle Cables

Inspection

Inspect the throttle cables from the grip to the carburetor.

Make sure they are not kinked or chafed. Replace them if
necessary as described in Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven.

Make sure the throttle grip rotates smoothly from fully

closed to fully open. Check with the handlebar at the center,
full left and full right positions.

Adjustment

WARNING

Do not ride the motorcycle until the throttle
cables are properly adjusted. Also, the cables
must not catch or pull when the handlebar is
turned from side to side. Improper cable rout-
ing and adjustment can cause the throttle to
stick open. This could cause loss of control
and a possible crash. Recheck this adjustment
before riding the motorcycle.

There are two different throttle cables. At the throttle

grip, the front cable is the throttle control cableand the rear
cable is the idle control cable. Label the cables before re-
moval.

At the carburetor on 1986-1987 models, the outboard ca-

ble is the idle control cable and the inboard cable is the
throttle control cable. Label the cables before removal.

At the carburetor on 1988-2003 models, the outboard ca-

ble is the throttle control cable and the inboard cable is the
idle control cable. Label the cables before removal.
1. Remove the air filter and backing plate as described in
Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven.
2. Push back the rubber boots from the adjusters.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

135

Clutch cable

Free play

Clutch inspection cover

3. Loosen the throttle friction screw on the bottom of the
throttle control housing.

4. At the handlebar, loosen both control cable adjuster jam
nuts (A, Figure 70), then turn the cable adjusters (B and C)
to increase cable slack.

5. Turn the handlebars so the front wheel points straight
ahead. Turn the throttle grip to open the throttle completely
and hold it in this position.

6A. On 1986-1987 models, at the handlebar, turn the throt-
tle control (B, Figure 70) cable adjuster until the throttle
cam stop just touches the stop boss (Figure 71) on the car-
buretor body. Tighten the throttle cable adjuster jam nut and
release the throttle grip.

NOTE

The carburetor is shown removed in

Figure

to better illustrate the steps.

6B. On 1988-2003 models, at the handlebar, turn the throt-
tle control (B, Figure 70) cable adjuster until the throttle
cam (A, Figure 72) stop just touches the stop boss (B) on
the carburetor body. Tighten the throttle cable adjuster jam
nut and release the throttle grip.

7. Turn the front wheel all the way to the fall right lock po-
sition and hold it there.

8. At the handlebar, turn the idle cable (C, Figure 70) ad-
juster until the lower end of the idle control cable (B, Fig-
ure 72) just contacts the spring in the carburetor cable
guide. Tighten the idle cable jam nut.

9. Install the backing plate and the air filter as described in
Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven.

10. Shift the transmission into neutral and start the engine.

11. Increase engine speed several times. Release the throt-
tle and make sure the engine speed returns to idle. If the en-
gine speed does not return to idle, at the handlebar, loosen
the idle control cable adjuster jam nut and turn the cable ad-
juster as required. Tighten the idle control cable adjuster
jam nut.

12. Allow the engine to idle in neutral, then turn the han-
dlebar from side to side. Do not operate the throttle. If the
engine speed increases when the handlebar assembly is
turned, the throttle cables are routed incorrectly or dam-
aged. Turn off the engine. Recheck cable routing and ad-
justment.

13. Push the rubber boots back onto the adjusters.

Choke Cable Adjustment
(1986-1987 Models)

The choke cable on 1986-1987 models operates the

choke plate in the carburetor (Figure 73). Cable adjustment
may be necessary to obtain proper operation.

1. Remove the air cleaner as described in Chapter Ten.

2. Operate the choke control knob (Figure 74) and verify
that the choke plate operates correctly.

136

CHAPTER THREE

3. If necessary, adjust the choke by loosening the nuts at
the choke knob and adjusting the length of the cable.
Tighten the nuts and recheck operation.

Starting Enrichment Valve (Choke) Cable
Adjustment (1988-2003 Models)

CAUTION

The starting enrichment (choke) cable must
have sufficient cable resistance to work prop-
erly. Do not lubricate the enrichment cable or
its conduit.

The starting enrichment (choke) knob (Figure 75)

should move from fully open to fully closed position with-
out any sign of binding. The knob should also stay in its
fully closed or fully open position without creeping. If the
knob does not stay in position, adjust tension on the cable
by turning the plastic knurled nut behind the knob. Refer to
Figure 76.

1. Loosen the hex nut behind the mounting bracket. Disen-
gage the cable from the mounting bracket.

2. Hold the cable flats with a wrench and turn the knurled
plastic nut counterclockwise to reduce cable resistance.
Continue until the knob will move in freely.

3. Turn the knurled plastic nut clockwise to increase cable
resistance. Continue adjustment until the knob will remain
stationary when it is pulled all the way out, but will move in
relatively easily. The knob must move without any rough-
ness or binding.

4. Reinstall the cable into the mounting bracket slot with
the star washer located between the bracket and hex nut.
Tighten the hex nut securely.

5. Recheck the knob movement and readjust if neces-
sary.

Fuel Line Inspection

WARNING

A damaged or deteriorated fuel line can
cause a fire or explosion if fuel spills onto a
hot engine or exhaust pipe.

Inspect the fuel line from the fuel tank to the carburetor.

Replace leaking or damaged fuel lines. Make sure the hose
clamps are in place and holding securely. Check the hose
fittings for looseness.

Exhaust System

Check all fittings for exhaust leaks. Do not forget the

crossover pipe or interconnecting tube connections.
Tighten all fasteners. Replace gaskets as necessary. Refer to
Chapter Ten or Chapter Eleven for removal and installation
procedures.

Steering Play

Check the steering play adjustment (Chapter Fourteen) at

the intervals in Table 1.

Rear Swing Arm Pivot Bolts

Check the rear swing arm pivot bolt tightness (Chapter

Fourteen) at the intervals specified in Table 1.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

137

1st position
(choke plate
fully open)

2nd position
3rd position
4th position
(choke plate
fully closed)

Enrichener cable

Enrichener knob

Star washer

Plastic knurled

nut

Flat

Hex nut

Rear Shock Absorbers

Check the rear shock absorbers for oil leaks or damaged

bushings. Check the shock absorber mounting bolts and
nuts for tightness. Refer to

Shock Absorbers

in Chapter Fif-

teen for procedures.

Engine Mounting Hardware

Check the engine and frame mounts for loose or damaged

parts. Refer to Chapter Five for procedures.

Fasteners

CAUTION

Special procedures must be used to tighten
the cylinder head mounting bolts. To accu-
rately check these bolts for tightness, refer to

Cylinder Head

in Chapter Four. Tightening

these bolts incorrectly can cause oil leaks or
cylinder head warp.

Constant vibration can loosen many fasteners on a mo-

torcycle. Check the tightness of all fasteners, especially:

1. Engine mounting hardware.

2. Engine and primary drive covers.

3. Handlebar and front fork.

4. Gearshift lever.

5. Sprocket bolts and nuts.

6. Brake lever and pedal.

7. Exhaust system.

8. Lighting equipment.

Electrical Equipment and Switches

Check all of the electrical equipment and switches for

proper operation. Refer to Chapter Twelve.

138

CHAPTER THREE

AIR FILTER (1986-1989 MODELS)

1. Vent hose
2. Gasket
3. Washer
4. Bolt
5. Backplate
6. Gasket
7. Screw
8. Filter and screen assembly
9. Cover

10. Screw

TUNE-UP

The following section describes tune-up procedures. Per-

form the tasks at the intervals listed in Table 1. Perform a
complete tune-up in the following order:

1. Clean or replace the air filter.

2. Check engine compression.

3. Check or replace the spark plugs.
4. Check the ignition timing.
5. Adjust the idle speed.

AIR FILTER

Removal/Cleaning/Installation

Remove and inspect the air filter at the interval in Table

1. If necessary, clean the element. Replace the element if it
is damaged.

Never run the motorcycle without the element installed.

1986-1989 models

Refer to Figure 77.

1. Remove the air filter cover screws and remove the cover
(Figure 78).
2. Remove the air filter element (Figure 79).
3. Remove the wire mesh frame from inside the filter (Fig-
ure 80).
4. Wash the filter in soap and water and allow to dry com-
pletely.
5. Inspect the filter and make sure it is in good condition
with no sign of damage. Replace if necessary.
6. After the filter is dry, saturate the filter with air filter oil.
Work the oil into the filter, then squeeze out excess oil. The
oil should have a uniform color, which indicates thorough
oil dispersion.
7. Reinstall the wire mesh frame (Figure 80).
8. Clean the inside of the cover and backplate with a rag
and cleaning solvent. Remove any debris that may have
passed through a damaged filter.
9. Install the filter by reversing the removal steps.

1990-2003 models

Refer to Figure 81.

1. Remove the air filter cover screws and remove the cover
(Figure 82).
2. Remove the air filter element (Figure 83).

NOTE

The air filter element is a paper/wire type. If
an aftermarket element is installed, refer to
the manufacturer’s cleaning instructions.

3. Replace the air filter if damaged.

WARNING

Do not clean the air filter in solvent. Never
clean the air filter element in gasoline or low
flash point solvent. The residual solvent or
vapors may cause a fire or explosion after the
filter is reinstalled.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

139

CAUTION

Do not tap or strike the air filter element on a
hard surface to dislodge dirt. Doing so dam-
ages the element.

4. Place the air filter in a pan filled with lukewarm water
and mild detergent. Move the air filter element back and
forth to help dislodge trapped dirt. Thoroughly rinse it in
clean water to remove all detergent residue.
5. Hold the air filter up to a strong light. Check the filter
pores for dirt and oil. Repeat Step 4 until there is no dirt and
oil in the filter pores. If the air filter cannot be cleaned, or if
the filter is saturated with oil or other chemicals, replace it.

CAUTION

Do not use high air pressure to dry the filter,
as this will damage it. Maximum air pressure
should be 32 psi (220kPa).

CAUTION

Do not blow compressed air through the
outer surface of the air filter element. Doing
so can force dirt trapped on the outer filter
surface deeper into the air filter element, re-

stricting airflow and damaging the air filter
element.

6. Apply compressed air through the inside surface of the
air filter element to remove loosened dirt and dust trapped
in the filter.
7. Inspect the air filter element. Replace it if it is torn or
damaged.
8. Wipe the inside of the cover and backplate with a clean
damp shop rag.

CAUTION

Air will not pass through a wet or damp fil-
ter. Make sure the filter is dry before install-
ing it.

9. Allow the filter to dry completely.
10. Reinstall the filter by reversing the removal steps.

COMPRESSION TEST

A compression test is one of the quickest ways to check

the internal condition of the engine (piston rings, pistons,

140

CHAPTER THREE

AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY (1990-2003 MODELS)

1. Gasket
2. Canister-to-air filter

hose (California models)

3. Carburetor overflow

vent hose
(California models)

4. Backplate

5. Butterfly valve solenoid

wiring harness (California models)

6. Allen bolt
7. Screw
8. Air filter
9. Cover

10. Screw

head gasket, valves and cylinders). It is a good idea to
check compression at each tune-up, record it in the mainte-
nance log at the back of the manual, and compare it with
subsequent readings.

Use a screw-in type compression gauge with any neces-

sary adapter (refer to Chapter One). Before using the gauge,
make sure the rubber gasket on the end of the gauge hose
adapter is in good condition.
1. Before starting the compression test, make sure the fol-
lowing items are correct:

a. The battery is fully charged (Chapter Twelve).

b. The cylinder head bolts are properly tightened

(Chapter Four).

2. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temper-
ature, then turn it off.

3. Remove all the spark plugs as described in this chapter.

4. Connect a grounding tool (Chapter One) to the spark
plug wires to prevent damage to the ignition system compo-
nents.

5. Lubricate the threads of the compression gauge adapter
with a small amount of antiseize compound and thread the
gauge into one of the spark plug holes.

NOTE

On 1986-1987 models make sure the choke is
off.

6. Move the engine stop switch to the run position, then
turn the ignition switch to the ignition position. Open the
throttle completely and crank the engine until there is no
further rise in pressure. Maximum pressure is usually
reached within 4-7 seconds of engine cranking. Record the
reading and the cylinder location.

7. Repeat Step 5 and Step 6 for the other cylinder.

8. When interpreting the results, actual readings are not as
important as the difference between the readings. Compres-
sion is considered normal if the indicated pressure is 120
psi (828 kPa), and the compression reading of a cylinder
does not differ from the remaining cylinder by 10 psi (69
kPa). Low compression indicates worn or broken rings,
leaky or sticky valves, blown head gasket or a combination
of all three.

a. If the compression reading does not differ between

cylinders by more than 10 percent, the rings and
valves are in good condition.

b. If a reading difference of 10 percent or more is ob-

tained on one of the cylinders, it indicates valve or
piston ring trouble. To determine which, pour about
a teaspoon of engine oil into the spark plug hole of
the cylinder with low compression. Turn the engine
over once to distribute the oil, then take another
compression test and record the reading. If the com-
pression increases significantly, the valves are good
but the rings are defective in that cylinder. If com-
pression does not increase, the valves require ser-
vicing.

9. Install the spark plugs as described in this chapter.

SPARK PLUGS

Removal

As each spark plug is removed, label it with its cylinder

location and refer to

Reading

in this section.

1. Grasp the spark plug lead (Figure 84) by the cap por-
tion, not by the wire. Pull the lead off the plug.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

141

CAUTION

Whenever the spark plugs are removed, dirt
around the opening can fall into the spark
plug hole. This can cause serious engine
damage.

2. Clean the area around the spark plug using compressed
air. Make sure all loose debris or small parts that could fall
into the spark plug holes in the cylinder head are removed.
3. Install the spark plug socket onto the spark plug. Make
sure it is correctly seated before removing the spark plug.
Identify the spark plug according to the cylinder from
which it was removed.
4. Repeat Step 3 for the remaining spark plug(s).
5. Inspect the spark plugs carefully. Refer to

Reading

this section. Look for plugs with broken center porcelain,
excessively eroded electrodes and excessive carbon or oil
fouling. Replace defective plugs.
6. Inspect the spark plug cap and wire. Replace the spark
plug wire if the receptacle or wire is damaged.

Gap

Adjust the gap of new plugs to ensure a reliable, consis-

tent spark. To do this, use a spark plug gapping tool with a
wire gauge.
1. Insert a wire gauge between the center and the side elec-
trode of the plug (Figure 85). The correct gap is listed in
Table 7. If the gap is correct, a slight drag should be felt as
the gauge is pulled through. If there is no drag, or if the
gauge will not pass through, bend the side electrode with
the gapping tool (Figure 86) to set the proper gap listed in
Table 7.
2. Repeat for the remaining spark plug(s).
3. Install the terminal nut (A, Figure 87).

Installation

1. Apply a light coat of antiseize compound onto the
threads (B, Figure 87) of the spark plug before installing it.
Remove any compound that contacts the plug electrodes.
Do not use engine oil on the plug threads.

CAUTION

The cylinder head is aluminum. If the spark
plug is cross-threaded into the cylinder head,
the internal threads will be damaged.

2. Screw the spark plug in by hand until it seats. Very little
effort is required. If force is necessary, the plug may be
cross-threaded. Unscrew it and try again.

CAUTION

Do not overtighten the spark plug. This will
crush the gasket and destroy its sealing abil-
ity. Overtightening may also damage the
spark plug threads in the cylinder head.

3. Tighten the spark plug to 11 ft.-lb. (15-24 N•m). If a
torque wrench is not available, tighten it 1/4 turn after the
gasket contacts the head.
4. Connect all spark plug leads and push them down until
they are completely seated. Repeat for the remaining spark
plug(s).

Reading

Inspecting or reading the spark plugs can provide a sig-

nificant amount of information regarding engine perfor-

142

CHAPTER THREE

mance. Reading plugs that have been in use will give an
indication of spark plug operation, air/fuel mixture compo-
sition and engine conditions (such as oil consumption or
piston wear). Before checking new spark plugs, operate the
motorcycle under a medium load for approximately 6 miles
(10 km). Avoid prolonged idling before shutting off the en-
gine. Remove the spark plugs as described in this section.
Examine each plug and compare it to those in Figure 88.

Spark plugs are available in various heat ranges, hotter or

colder than the plugs originally installed by the manufac-
turer. Do not change the spark plug heat range to compen-
sate for adverse engine or air/fuel mixture conditions.

When replacing plugs, make sure the reach (B, Figure

87) is correct. A longer than standard plug could interfere
with the piston, causing engine damage. Refer to Table 7
for recommended spark plugs.

Normal condition

If the plug has a light tan- or gray-colored deposit and no

abnormal gap wear or erosion, good engine, fuel system
and ignition conditions are indicated. The plug in use is of
the proper heat range and may be serviced and returned to
use.

Carbon fouled

Soft, dry, sooty deposits covering the entire firing end of

the plug are evidence of incomplete combustion. Even
though the firing end of the plug is dry, the plug’s insulation
decreases when in this condition. The carbon forms an elec-
trical path that bypasses the spark plug electrodes, resulting

in a misfire condition. One or more of the following can
cause carbon fouling:
1. Rich fuel mixture.
2. Cold spark plug heat range.
3. Clogged air filter.
4. Improperly operating ignition component.
5. Ignition component failure.
6. Low engine compression.
7. Prolonged idling.

Oil fouled

The tip of an oil fouled plug has a black insulator tip, a

damp oily film over the firing end and a carbon layer over
the entire nose. The electrodes are not worn. Oil fouled
spark plugs may be cleaned in an emergency, but it is better
to replace them. It is important to correct the cause of the
fouling before the engine is returned to service. Common
causes for this condition are:
1. Incorrect air/fuel mixture.
2. Low idle speed or prolonged idling.
3. Ignition component failure.
4. Cold spark plug heat range.
5. Engine still being broken in.
6. Valve guides worn.
7. Piston rings worn or broken.

Gap bridging

Plugs with this condition exhibit gaps shorted out by

combustion deposits between the electrodes. If this condi-
tion is encountered, check for excessive carbon or oil in the
combustion chamber. Be sure to locate and correct the
cause of this condition.

Overheating

Badly worn electrodes and premature gap wear are signs

of overheating, along with a gray or white blistered porce-
lain insulator surface. The most common cause for this con-
dition is using a spark plug of the wrong heat range (too
hot). If the spark plug is in the correct heat range and is
overheating, consider the following causes:
1. Lean air/fuel mixture.
2. Improperly operating ignition component.
3. Cooling system malfunction.
4. Engine lubrication system malfunction.
5. Engine air leak.
6. Improper spark plug installation.
7. No spark plug gasket.

Worn out

Corrosive gases formed by combustion and high voltage

sparks have eroded the electrodes. A spark plug in this con-

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

143

SPARK PLUG CONDITIONS

Normal

Gap bridged

Carbon fouled

Overheated

Oil fouled

Sustained preignition

dition requires more voltage to fire under hard acceleration.
Replace with a new spark plug.

Preignition

If the electrodes are melted, preignition is almost cer-

tainly the cause. Check for intake air leaks at the manifolds
and carburetors. Also check for advanced ignition timing. It
is also possible that a plug of the wrong heat range (too hot)
is being used. Find the cause of the preignition before re-
turning the engine into service.

IGNITION TIMING ADJUSTMENT

Ignition timing specifications are listed in Table 8.

1986-1994 Models

1. Remove the plug from the timing hole on the right side
of the engine (Figure 89). A clear plastic viewing plug is
available to minimize oil spray. Make sure the plug does not
contact the flywheel after installation.
2. On models not equipped with a tachometer, attach a
shop tachometer to the engine following the manufacturer’s
instructions.
3. Connect an inductive clamp-on timing light to the front
cylinder spark plug wire following the manufacturer’s in-
structions.
4. Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal operat-
ing temperature. Then set idle speed to 1650-1950 rpm.
5. Aim the timing light at the timing inspection hole. At
1650-1950 rpm, the front cylinder advance mark should ap-
pear in the center of the inspection window as shown in
Figure 90. If the mark does not align, adjust the ignition
timing starting with Step 6. If the ignition timing is correct,
proceed to Step 9.
6. Remove the sensor plate outer cover, inner cover and
gasket as described in

Ignition System

in Chapter Twelve.

7. Loosen the timing plate screws (Figure 91) just enough
to allow the plate to rotate. Start the engine and turn the
plate as required so that the advanced mark is aligned as de-
scribed in Step 5. To adjust the plate, use a screwdriver in
the plate’s slot. Make sure idle speed remains between
1650-1950 rpm checking timing. Tighten the screws (Fig-
ure 91) and recheck ignition timing.
8. Install the sensor plate gasket, inner cover and outer
cover.
9. As part of the tune-up, check the vacuum operated elec-
tric switch (VOES) as follows:

CAUTION

The

Vacuum

Operated

Electric

Switch

(VOES) must be tested at each tune-up and
replaced if malfunctioning. A damaged VOES
switch will allow too high a spark advance

which can cause severe engine knock and
damage.

a. Start the engine and allow it to idle.

b. On 1986-1990 models, disconnect the VOES vac-

uum hose from the carburetor (Figure 92) with the

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CHAPTER THREE

Timing inspection hole

Front cylinder advance timing mark

engine idling at 900-950 rpm. Maintain this engine
rpm when performing substep e.

c. On 1991-1992 models, disconnect the VOES vac-

uum hose from the carburetor (Figure 92) with the
engine idling at 950-1050 rpm. Maintain this engine
rpm when performing substep e.

d. On 1993-1994 models, disconnect the VOES vac-

uum hose from the carburetor (Figure 92) with the
engine idling at 1650-1950 rpm. Maintain this engine
rpm when performing substep e.

e. Plug the carburetor VOES port. With the port

blocked, the engine speed should decrease and the ig-
nition timing should retard—check with the timing
light. When the vacuum hose is reconnected to the
VOES port, the engine speed should increase.

f. If the engine failed to operate as described in

substep e, check the VOES wire connection at the
ignition module. Also check the VOES ground wire
for looseness or damage. If the wire connections are
okay, test the VOES switch as described in Chapter
Twelve.

10. Reinstall the timing hole plug (Figure 89).
11. Remove the timing light and tachometer (if used).
12. Reset the engine idle speed as described in this section.

1995-2003 Models

1. Remove the plug from the timing hole on the right side
of the engine (Figure 89). A clear plastic viewing plug is
available to minimize oil spray. Make sure the plug does not
contact the flywheel after installation.
2. On models not equipped with a tachometer, attach a
shop tachometer to the engine following the manufacturer’s
instructions.
3. Connect an inductive clamp-on timing light to the front
cylinder spark plug wire following the manufacturer’s in-
structions.
4. Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal operat-
ing temperature. Then set idle speed to 950-1050 rpm.
5. Aim the timing light at the timing inspection hole. At
950-1050 rpm, the front cylinder advance mark should ap-
pear in the center of the inspection window as shown in
Figure 93. If the mark does not align, adjust the ignition
timing starting with Step 6. If the ignition timing is correct,
proceed to Step 9.
6. Remove the sensor plate outer cover, inner cover and
gasket, if so equipped, as described in

Ignition System

Chapter Twelve.
7A. On all models except 1200S models, loosen the timing
plate sensor plate screws (Figure 91) just enough to allow
the plate to rotate.
7B. On 1200S models, loosen the timing plate sensor
plate screws (Figure 94) just enough to allow the plate to
rotate.
8. Start the engine and turn the plate as required so that the
advanced mark is aligned as described in Step 5. To adjust

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

145

Timing inspection hole

Front cylinder advance timing mark

the plate, use a screwdriver in the plate’s slot. Make sure
idle speed specified in Step 5 is maintained when checking
timing. Tighten the screws (Figure 91 or Figure 94) and re-
check ignition timing.
9. Install the sensor plate gasket, inner cover and outer
cover.
10. As part of the tune-up, check the vacuum operated
electric switch (VOES) as follows:

CAUTION

The

Vacuum

Operated

Electric

Switch

(VOES) must be tested at each tune-up and
replaced if malfunctioning. A damaged VOES
switch will allow too high a spark advance
which can cause severe engine knock and
damage.

a. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
b. Disconnect the VOES vacuum hose from the carbu-

retor (Figure 92) with the engine idling at 1000-1050
rpm. Maintain this engine rpm when performing
substep c.

c. Plug the carburetor VOES port. With the port

d. If the engine failed to operate as described in

substep c, check the VOES wire connection at the
ignition module. Also check the VOES ground wire
for looseness or damage. If the wire connections are
okay, test the VOES switch as described in Chapter
Twelve.

11. Reinstall the timing hole plug (Figure 89).
12. Remove the timing light and tachometer (if used).
13. Reset the engine idle speed as described in this sec-
tion.

Idle Speed Adjustment

Prior to adjusting the idle speed, make sure the air filter is

clean and the engine compression and ignition timing are
within specification. Refer to the appropriate section in this
chapter.

Idle speed specifications are in Table 8.

1986-1987 models

1. Make sure the throttle cable free play is adjusted as de-
scribed in this chapter.
2. On models not equipped with a tachometer, attach a
shop tachometer to the engine following the manufacturer’s
instructions.
3. Start the engine and let it reach normal operating tem-
perature. The engine must be at normal operating tempera-
ture for accurate idle speed adjustment.

4. Make sure the choke knob (Figure 95) is pushed in all
the way.
5. On the carburetor turn the idle speed screw (Figure 96)
in or out to adjust the slow idle speed to within specifica-
tion.
6. Open and close the throttle a couple of times and check
for variations in idle speed. Readjust if necessary.

146

CHAPTER THREE

1st position
(choke plate
fully open)

2nd position

3rd position

4th position
(choke plate
fully closed)

7. Pull the choke knob to the second detent position. Turn
the fast idle screw (Figure 97) so the engine idles at
1700-1800 rpm. Push in the choke knob to the closed posi-
tion and verify that engine idle speed drops to the slow idle
speed.
8. Make sure both slow idle and fast idle speeds are within
specification noted in Table 8.

1988-2003 models

1. Make sure the throttle cable free play is adjusted as de-
scribed in this chapter.
2. On models not equipped with a tachometer, attach a
shop tachometer as described by the manufacturer’s
instructions.
3. Start the engine and let it reach normal operating tem-
perature. The engine must be at normal operating tempera-
ture for the idle speed adjustment to be accurate.
4. Make sure the starting enrichment (choke) knob (Figure
98) is pushed in all the way.
5. On the carburetor turn the idle speed screw (Figure
99) in or out to adjust the idle speed to within specifica-
tion.
6. Open and close the throttle a couple of times and check
for variations in idle speed. Readjust if necessary.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

147

Table 1 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

Pre-ride check

Check tire condition and inflation pressure
Check wheel rim condition
Check light and horn operation
Check engine oil level; add oil if necessary
Check brake fluid level and condition; add fluid if necessary
Check the operation of the front and rear brakes
Check throttle operation
Check clutch lever operation
Check fuel level in fuel tank; top off if necessary
Check fuel system for leaks
Check drive chain or drive belt condition and adjustment
Verify proper operation of air cleaner EVAP valve (models

so equipped)

Every 300 miles (480 km)

Lubricate drive chain (models so equipped)

Initial 1000 miles (800 km)

Check brake pad wear
Check brake disc wear
Inspect fuel valve, fuel line and all fittings for leaks
Check engine idle speed
Check battery fluid level; refill with distilled water
Check electrical equipment and switches for proper operation
Check throttle operation
Operate and check enrichener (choke) cable operation
Check tire pressure and tread wear
Change engine oil and replace oil filter
Inspect and clean air filter
Check rear drive chain or belt tension; adjust if necessary
Inspect primary chain
Check primary chain tension; adjust if necessary
Change primary drive/transmission oil
Check clutch adjustment; adjust if necessary

(continued)

Table 1 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

(continued)

Every 300 miles (480 km)

Check brake fluid level; refill with DOT 5 brake fluid

Initial 1000 miles (800 km) (continued)

Check rear brake pedal adjustment; adjust if necessary
Perform general lubrication to equipment specified in this chapter
Check ignition timing
Check vacuum operated electric switch (VOES)
Check rear swing arm pivot shaft tightness
Check engine mount bolt tightness
Inspect rear shock absorber
Check all exposed fasteners for tightness

Lubricate rear swing arm bearing
Lubricate speedometer drive gear (models so equipped)
Check steering play adjustment
Verify proper operation of air cleaner EVAP valve (models

so equipped)

Every 2500 miles (4000 km)

Check engine oil level
Check primary drive/transmission oil level
Check brake pad wear
Check brake disc wear
Inspect fuel valve, fuel line and all fittings for leaks
Check engine idle speed
Check battery fluid level; refill with distilled water
Check electrical equipment and switches for proper operation
Check throttle operation
Operate and check enrichener cable operation
Check tire pressure and tread wear
Lubricate speedometer drive gear (models so equipped)
Verify proper operation of air cleaner EVAP valve (models

so equipped)

Initial 5000 miles (8000 km)

Check spark plug gap and condition
Check steering play adjustment

Every 5000 miles (8000 km)

Change engine oil and replace oil filter
Inspect and clean air filter
Check rear drive chain or belt tension; adjust if necessary
Inspect primary chain
Check primary chain tension; adjust if necessary
Change primary drive/transmission oil
Check clutch adjustment; adjust if necessary
Check brake fluid level; refill with DOT 5 brake fluid
Check rear brake pedal adjustment; adjust if necessary
Perform general lubrication to equipment specified in this chapter
Check ignition timing
Check vacuum operated electric switch (VOES)
Check MAP sensor (1200S)
Check rear swing arm pivot shaft tightness
Check engine mount bolt tightness
Inspect rear shock absorber
Check all exposed fasteners for tightness

Lubricate rear swing arm bearing
Inspect rear brake caliper mounting pins and boots; lubricate

pins and boots during reassembly

Inspect and lubricate rear brake and shifter linkage assembly
Lubricate throttle control sleeve
Lubricate speedometer cable
Verify proper operation of bank angle sensor (models so equipped)

Every 10,000 miles (16,000 km)

Replace spark plugs
Replace front fork oil
Lubricate steering bearings
Check steering play adjustment
Clean and lubrlcate wheel bearings

1. Consider this maintenance schedule a guide to maintenance and lubrication intervals. Harder than normal use

and exposure to mud, water, high humidity indicates more frequent servicing to most items.

2. Except cylinder head bolts. Cylinder head bolts must be tightened following the procedure in Chapter Four.

Improper tightening of the cylinder head bolts may cause cylinder gasket damage.

148

CHAPTER THREE

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