Harley Davidson 1986-2003 XL/XLH Sportster. Service Manual — page 28

5. Slide the axle out of the wheel (Figure 28) and allow the
wheel to drop to the ground.

NOTE

Identify the wheel spacers during removal so
they can be returned to their original positions.

6. Remove the outer right axle spacer (Figure 29).

CAUTION

Do not set the wheel down on the brake disc
surface, as it may be damaged.

NOTE

On 1986-1999 models, the shoulders on the
inner left and right axle spacers are inserted
through the seal. These spacers should not
fall out when the wheel is removed.

7. Lift the drive chain or belt off the sprocket and remove
the rear wheel (Figure 30).
8. Place a spacer between the brake pads in place of the
disc. With the spacer in place, if the brake lever is inadver-
tently applied, the pistons will not be forced out of the cali-
per. If the pistons are forced out, disassemble the caliper to
reseat the pistons as described in Chapter Sixteen.
9. Inspect the rear wheel assembly as described in this chapter.

Installation

1. Clean the axle in solvent and dry thoroughly. Make sure
the axle bearing surfaces on the axle are free from burrs and
nicks.
2. Apply a film of waterproof bearing grease to the axle
shaft prior to installation.
3. On 1986-1999 models, make sure the inner left and right
axle spacers are inserted through the seal as shown in Fig-
ure 31. If necessary, install the spacers and oil seals as de-
scribed in

Rear Hub

in this chapter

4. Remove the spacer from between the brake caliper.
Then position the rear wheel into the swing arm, through
the drive chain or belt, and position the right axle spacer
(Figure 29) between the swing arm and wheel.
5. Lift the wheel into position and install the axle (Figure
28) from the right side.

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

475

13

27

28

29

30

31

6. Install the washer (C, Figure 27) and nut.
7. Adjust the drive chain or belt as described in Chapter
Three.

CAUTION

If it is necessary to tighten the axle nut to
align the axle nut slot with the cotter pin hole
in the axle, do not exceed the maximum
torque specification.

8. Tighten the axle nut to 60-65 ft.-lb. (81-88 N•m).
9. Perform the

Rear Wheel Bearing End Play Check

in this

section.
10. Install a new cotter pin (A, Figure 27).
11. Rotate the wheel several times to make sure it rotates
freely and that the brakes work properly.

Inspection

Replace worn or damaged parts as described in this sec-

tion.
1A. 1986-1999 models are equipped with tapered roller
bearings. Turn the bearing and check for roughness. If one
bearing is damaged, replace both bearings as a set. Refer to

Rear Hub

in this chapter.

1B. 2000-2003 models are equipped with sealed ball bear-
ings. Turn each bearing inner race by hand. The bearing
should turn smoothly. Some axial play is normal, but radial
play should be negligible. See Figure 32. If one bearing is
damaged, replace both bearings as a set. Refer to

Rear Hub

in this chapter.
2. Clean the axle and axle spacers in solvent. Make sure the
axle contact surfaces are clean.
3. Check the axle runout with a set of V-blocks and a dial
indicator (Figure 33). The manufacturer does not provide a
runout specification. Replace the axle if it is not straight.
4. Check the spacers for wear, burrs and damage. Replace
as necessary.
5. Check the brake disc bolts for tightness. To service the
brake disc, refer to Chapter Sixteen.
6. Check wheel runout and spoke tension, if applicable, as
described in this chapter.

Rear Wheel Bearing End Play Check

To check rear wheel bearing end play, follow the proce-

dure described in the

Front Wheel Bearing End Play Check

in

Front Wheel

in this chapter. Note the following:

1. Tighten the axle nut to 60-65 ft.-lb. (81-88 N•m).
2. If necessary, remove the wheel and disassemble the rear
hub as described in

Rear Hub

in this chapter.

REAR HUB

(1986-1999 MODELS)

Tapered roller bearings are installed on each side of the

hub. Seals installed on the outside of each bearing protect

them from dirt and other contaminants. The bearings can be
removed from the hub after removing the outer seals. The
bearing races are pressed into the hub and should not be re-
moved unless they require replacement.

Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly

Refer to Figure 34 or Figure 35.

NOTE

The bearings and races are matched pairs.
Label all parts so that they may be returned to
their original positions.

1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chapter.

476

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

32

Axial

Radial

33

2. If necessary, remove the brake disc as described in
Chapter Sixteen.
3. If necessary, remove the driven sprocket as described in
this chapter.
4. Remove the inner spacers (Figure 36).
5. Pry the oil seals out of the hub (Figure 37). If using a
screwdriver, place a rag underneath the screwdriver to
avoid damaging the hub. Remove the spacer from the oil
seal, if so equipped. Then identify and remove the bearing
from its race.
6. On late 1991-1999 models, remove the spacer shim(s)
and shoulder washer.

7. Remove the spacer sleeve from the hub and wash it thor-
oughly in solvent.
8. Repeat to remove the opposite bearing. Label the bear-
ings if they are going to be reused.
9. Wash the bearings thoroughly in solvent and dry with
compressed air. Wipe the bearing races off with a clean rag
dipped in solvent. Then check the roller bearings and races
for wear, pitting or excessive heat (bluish tint). Replace the
bearing and races as a complete set. Replace the bearing
races as described in Step 10. If the bearing and its race do
not require replacement, proceed to Step 11. If reinstalling
the original bearing(s), pack the bearing thoroughly with

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

477

13

34

LACED REAR WHEEL

(1986-1999 MODELS)

1. Cotter pin
2. Axle nut
3. Washer
4. Bolt
5. Brake disc
6. Nut
7. Spacer
8. Seal
9. Bearing

10. Shoulder bearing

(late 1991-1999 models)

11. Shim pack

(late 1991-1999 models)

12. Rim
13. Hub
14. Spacer
15. Nut
16. Driven sprocket
17. Washer
18. Bolt
19. Spacer
20. Rear axle

grease and wrap it in a clean, lint-free cloth or wax paper.
Wipe a film of grease across the bearing race.

CAUTION

If you do not have the proper size tool to drive
the race into the hub, have a dealership in-
stall the race. Do not attempt to install the
race by driving it into the hub with a small di-
ameter punch or rod.

10. Replace the bearing races (Figure 21) as follows:

a. A universal bearing remover should be used to re-

move the races from the hub. If this tool is unavail-
able, insert a drift punch through the hub and tap the
race out of the hub with a hammer. Move the punch
around the race to make sure the race is driven
squarely out of the hub. Do not allow the race to bind
in the hub as this can damage the race bore in the hub.

Severe damage to the race bore will require replace-
ment of the hub.

b. Clean the inside and outside of the hub with solvent.

Dry with compressed air. Lubricate the outside of the
new race with oil and align it with the hub. Using a
bearing driver or socket with an outside diameter
slightly smaller than the bearing race, drive the race
into the hub until it bottoms on the hub shoulder.
Make sure the race is square with the hub bore. Do
not allow the race to bind during installation.

11. Clean the hub prior to installing the bearings.

12. Lubricate the ends of the spacer sleeve with grease and
install it into the hub.

13. On late 1991-1999 models, perform the following:

a. Install the spacer shim(s) into the left side of the hub

and rest it against the hub counterbore.

478

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

35

CAST REAR WHEEL (1986-1999 MODELS)

1. Cotter pin
2. Axle nut
3. Washer
4. Bolt
5. Brake disc
6. Spacer
7. Seal
8. Bearing
9. Shoulder washer

(late 1991-1999 models)

10. Shim pack

(late 1991-1999 models)

11. Wheel
12. Spacer
13. Driven sprocket
14. Washer
15. Bolt
16. Spacer
17. Rear axle

b. Install the shoulder washer into the hub, with the

shoulder side facing out, and seat it against the spacer
shim(s).

14. Lubricate each bearing race with grease.
15. Pack the bearings with grease and install them in the
bearing races.
16. Install new seals as follows:

a. Pack the seal lip cavity of each seal with grease.
b. The seals can be installed into either side.
c. Install the seals so the closed side faces out.
d. Use a bearing driver or socket with an outer diameter

slightly smaller than the seal (

Figure 35

) to install the

seals.

e. On laced wheels, install the seals so the outer surface

is 0.26-0.28 in. (6.6-7.1 mm) below the hub surface.

f. On cast wheels, install the oil seals so the outer sur-

face is 0.31 in. (7.9 mm) below the hub surface.

17. If the brake disc was removed, refer to Chapter Sixteen
for correct procedures and torque specification.
18. If the driven sprocket was removed, install it as de-
scribed in this chapter.
19. After the wheel is installed on the motorcycle and the
rear axle tightened to the specified torque specification,
check the bearing end play as described in this chapter.
20. If the hub on spoke wheels is damaged, the hub can be
replaced by removing the spokes and assembling a new
hub. If the hub on cast wheels is damaged, replace the
wheel assembly; it cannot be repaired.

REAR HUB

(2000-2003 MODELS)

Sealed bearings are installed on each side of the hub. Do

not remove the bearing assemblies unless they require re-
placement.

Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly

Refer to

Figure 38

or

Figure 39

. Follow the procedure

described in the

Front Hub

section for 2000-2003 models.

DRIVE CHAIN AND SPROCKETS

A drive chain (

Figure 40

) was originally installed on all

1986-1990 models and 1991-1992 Standard and Hugger
models. O-ring type drive chains were installed on 1992
models.

Refer to Chapter Three for drive chain inspection, clean-

ing and adjustment procedures.

Drive Chain Size

The standard drive chain size is No. 530 (3/8 in. wide)×

110 links.

Drive Chain Removal/Installation

A chain breaker is required to remove the master link.

1. Support the motorcycle so the rear wheel is off the
ground.

NOTE

If reusing the drive chain, mark the chain’s in-
stallation position (side and top positions).
That way, the chain can be installed in the
same position.

2. Turn the rear wheel and drive chain until the master link
is accessible.
3. Remove the master link spring clip with a pair of pliers.
4. Using a chain breaker, press the connecting link out of
the side plate. When disconnecting an O-ring chain, re-
move the four O-rings (

Figure 41

, typical).

NOTE

If reusing the existing drive chain rather than
installing a new chain, substitute another
drive chain so it can temporarily replace the
existing drive chain.

5. To install the new drive chain, connect it to the original
chain with the old master link. Pull the new chain around
the front sprocket.
6. Disconnect the original chain from the new chain.

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

479

13

36

37

480

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

38

LACED REAR WHEEL (2000-2003 MODELS)

1. Bolt
2. Axle nut
3. Washer
4. Spacer
5. Brake disc
6. Bearing
7. Rim

8. Hub
9. Spacer

10. Driven sprocket
11. Spacer
12. Axle
13. Washer
14. Cotter pin

39

CAST REAR WHEELS (2000-2003 MODELS)

1. Bolt
2. Axle nut
3. Washer
4. Spacer
5. Brake disc
6. Bearing
7. Wheel

8. Spacer
9. Driven sprocket

10. Spacer
11. Axle
12. Washer
13. Cotter pin

7. If reusing the original chain, service it as required, then
connect it to the old chain and pull it around the front
sprocket. Disconnect the chains.
8. Install by reversing the preceding removal steps while
noting the following:

a. On an O-ring chain, install the four O-rings onto the

master link as shown in Figure 41, typical.

b. If assembling the chain using a press fit master link,

refer to

Press Fit Master Link

in this section to press

the side plate onto the connecting link.

c. Install the spring clip onto the master link so the

closed end of the clip faces the direction of chain
travel (Figure 42).

d. Lubricate and adjust the drive chain as described in

Chapter Three.

Press Fit Master Link

CAUTION

Attempting to install a press-fit master link
without the proper tools can damage the mas-
ter link and parts of the chain.

NOTE

Most commercial press-fit chain tools are de-
signed to press the side plate onto the con-
necting link to its correct depth. If the side
plate is pressed on too far, it will bind the
chain where it is joined at the master link. If
the side plate is not pressed on far enough, the
spring clip cannot be installed correctly and
will probably come off. Properly installed, the
slide plate is flush with both pin seating
grooves in the connecting link.

Many drive chains are equipped with a master link side

plate that is pressed into place. To install this type of master
link, a press-fit chain tool is required; Figure 43 illustrates
one type of chain press tool. To disconnect the chain, first
remove the outer clip from the master link, then use a chain
breaker to separate the side plate from the connecting link.

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

481

13

40

41

Spring clip

Connecting link

O-rings

Side plate

O-ring

Chain

42

Master link clip

Direction of travel

43

Side plate

Connecting
link

Press-fit chain tool

Cutting a Drive Chain to Length

The standard drive chain size is No. 530 (3/8 in. wide)×

110 links. If the replacement drive chain is too long, cut it to
length as follows.
1. Stretch out the new chain on a workbench without the
master link.
2. Count out 110 links on the new chain. Mark the two
chain pins to indicate the cutting position. Recount the
chain links to verify that the cutting mark is accurate.

WARNING

Wear safety glasses when using a grinder.

3. Grind the head of two pins flush with the face of the side
plate.
4. Support the chain, then use a chain breaker or a punch
and hammer and tap the pins out of the side plate. If the pins
remain tight, grind more material from the end of the pins
and then try again.
5. Remove the side plate and push out the connecting link.

Service and Inspection

Refer to Chapter Three.

Drive Sprocket Removal/Installation

The drive sprocket (front) is mounted on the end of

mainshaft fifth gear.
1. Remove the exhaust pipes as described in Chapter Ten
or Chapter Eleven.
2. Remove the rear master cylinder bolts (A,

Figure 44

)

and remove the footpeg and brake pedal assembly (B). It is
not necessary to disconnect the brake line from the master
cylinder.
3. Remove the master cylinder hose clip (A,

Figure 45

).

4. Remove the sprocket cover (B,

Figure 45

).

5. Remove the drive sprocket lockscrew (

Figure 46

).

6. Loosen the rear axle nut (A,

Figure 47

) and loosen the

chain adjusters (B).

NOTE

The drive sprocket nut on 1991-1992 models
has left-hand threads.

7. Turn the drive sprocket nut (

Figure 48

) clockwise and

remove it.
8. Remove the drive sprocket from the transmission
mainshaft.
9. Installation is the reverse of the removal steps while not-
ing the following.

a. Remove all thread locking compound from the

sprocket nut and mainshaft threads.

b. Install the drive sprocket (

Figure 48

) onto the

mainshaft.

c. Apply threadlock (Loctite 262 or equivalent) to the

sprocket nut threads and thread the nut onto the
mainshaft by turning it counterclockwise. Tighten the
nut to the torque specification in

Table 13

.

d. Determine which one of the three drive sprocket

lockscrew holes aligns with a nut flat; see

Figure 46

.

If none of the holes align with a nut flat, tighten the
nut until one of the lockscrew holes aligns with a nut
at flat.

CAUTION

If the drive sprocket nut requires additional
tightening, do not exceed 90 ft.-lb. (N•m) on
1986-1990 models or 150 ft.-lb. (203 N•m) on

482

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

44

45

46

Lockscrew

Main shaft
sprocket nut

1991-1992 models. Do not loosen the drive
sprocket nut to align the screw hole.

e. Apply Loctite 242 (blue) to the drive sprocket

lockscrew threads. Then install the lockscrew into the
correct sprocket hole so that it rests against the nut flat
(Figure 46) and tighten to 50-60 in.-lb. (6-7 N•m).

f. Reverse Steps 1-3 to complete assembly. Tighten the

drive sprocket cover screws to 90-110 in.-lb. (10-12

N•m) and rear master cylinder screws to 155-190
in.-lb. (18-21 N•m).

WARNING

Check that the rear brake is operating prop-
erly before riding the motorcycle.

g. If the rear master cylinder pushrod locknut was loos-

ened, adjust the rear brake as described in Chapter
Three.

h. Adjust the drive chain (Chapter Three).

Driven Sprocket Removal/Installation

The driven sprocket (rear) is bolted to the rear wheel

(Figure 47).
1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chapter.
2. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the sprocket to the
hub and remove the sprocket.
3. Replace worn or damaged sprocket fasteners as re-
quired.
4. Installation is the reverse of the preceding steps. Tighten
the sprocket nuts and bolts to the torque listed in Table 13.

Sprocket Inspection

Inspect the sprocket teeth. If the teeth are visibly worn,

replace both the drive and driven sprockets and the drive
chain. Never replace any one sprocket or chain as a separate
item; worn parts will cause rapid wear of the new compo-
nent. Refer to

Drive Chain Adjustment

in Chapter Three for

additional information.

DRIVE BELT AND SPROCKETS

Drive belt assemblies are installed on all 1991-1992 883

Deluxe models, 1991-1992 1200 models and all 1993-2003
models. Drive belts can be identified by number of teeth
and color code; see Table 1 in Chapter Nine.

Drive Belt Removal/Installation

1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chapter.
2. Remove the rear sprocket cover (A, Figure 49) as fol-
lows:

NOTE

It is not necessary to disconnect the brake line
at the master cylinder.

a. Loosen then remove the rear brake master cylinder

mounting bolts (B, Figure 49) and washers.

b. On all models except 1999-2003 883C and 1200C,

remove the clevis pin cotter pin at the rear brake
pedal. Then remove the clevis pin (Figure 50) to dis-
connect the brake pedal from the brake rod end.

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

483

13

47

48

49

c. On 1999-2003 883C and 1200C models, remove the

rear brake pedal assembly as described in Chapter
Sixteen.

d. Remove the screw and clip (C, Figure 49) securing

the brake line to the sprocket cover.

e. Loosen then remove the Allen bolts and washers se-

curing the sprocket cover to the engine. Remove the
sprocket cover (A, Figure 49) together with rear
brake pedal and linkage assembly.

3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the rear axle nut (A,
Figure 51) and the rear drive belt adjusters (B).
4. Remove the lower right shock absorber mounting bolt
and belt guard.
5. Mark the belt so that it can be installed in its original op-
erating position.

CAUTION

When handling the drive belt, do not bend it
backwards or twist it into loops smaller than
5 in. (127 mm). Doing so may weaken the belt
causing premature failure.

6. Slide the drive belt (Figure 52) off the drive sprocket
and remove it from the motorcycle.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal steps. Adjust the
drive belt tension and tighten the rear axle nut as described
in Chapter Three.
8. Make sure the rear brake is operating correctly. If the
brake line was disconnected, bleed the rear brake as de-
scribed in Chapter Sixteen.

Inspection

CAUTION

When handling the drive belt, do not bend it
backwards or twist it into loops smaller than
5 in. (127 mm). Doing so may weaken the belt
causing premature failure.

The drive belt has a built-in polyethylene lubricant coat-

ing that burnishes off during break-in. Do not apply lubri-
cants. Inspect the drive belt for wear or damage. Replace
any belt that appears questionable. See Figure 53.

Drive Sprocket Removal/Installation

1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chapter.
2. Shift the transmission into first gear.
3. Remove the rear sprocket cover (A, Figure 49) as fol-
lows:

NOTE

It is not necessary to disconnect the brake line
at the master cylinder.

a. Using an Allen wrench, loosen then remove the rear

brake master cylinder mounting bolts (B, Figure 49)
and washers.

b. On all models except 1999-2003 883C and 1200C,

remove the clevis pin cotter pin at the rear brake
pedal. Then remove the clevis pin (Figure 50) to dis-
connect the brake pedal from the brake rod end.

c. On 1999-2003 883C and 1200C models, remove the

rear brake pedal as part of the forward foot controls
as described in Chapter Seventeen.

d. Remove the screw and clip (C, Figure 49) securing

the brake line to the sprocket cover.

e. Loosen then remove the Allen bolts and washers se-

curing the sprocket cover to the engine. Remove the
sprocket cover (A, Figure 49) together with rear
brake pedal and linkage assembly.

4. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the rear axle nut (A,
Figure 51) and the rear drive belt adjusters (B).

484

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

50

51

52

5A. On 1991 models, loosen and remove the socket
lockscrew (2, Figure 54).

5B. On 1992-2003 models, remove the two socket head
screws and lockplate (Figure 55).

NOTE

The drive sprocket nut uses left-hand
threads.

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

485

13

53

DRIVE BELT INSPECTION

Stone

1. Internal tooth cracks
2. Missing teeth
3. Fuzzy edge core
4. Stone damage
5. External tooth cracks
6. Chipping
7. Hook wear

54

DRIVE SPROCKET

(1986-1991 MODELS AND

1992 MODELS WITH DRIVE CHAIN)

1. Drive belt (or drive chain)
2. Socket lockscrew
3. Main drive gear shaft
4. Drive sprocket
5. Sprocket nut

55

DRIVE SPROCKET

(1992-2003 MODELS)

1. Main drive gear shaft
2. Drive sprocket
3. Sprocket nut
4. Lockplate
5. Socket head screw

6. Turn the drive sprocket nut (Figure 56) clockwise and
remove it from the main drive gear shaft.

7. Remove the drive sprocket (Figure 57).

8. Replace the drive sprocket if severely worn or damaged.

9. Install the drive sprocket (Figure 57) onto the main
drive gear shaft.

10. The drive sprocket nut has a shoulder on one side (Fig-
ure 58). Install the nut so that the shoulder faces toward the
drive sprocket.

NOTE

The drive sprocket nut uses left-hand threads.

11. Apply threadlock (Loctite 262 or equivalent) onto the
sprocket nut threads. Then turn the nut (Figure 56) coun-
terclockwise and thread it onto the main drive gear shaft.
Tighten the nut to the torque specification in Table 8.

12A. On 1991 models, perform the following:

a. Determine which one of the three drive sprocket

lockscrew sprocket holes aligns with a nut flat; see
Figure 54. If none of the holes aligns with a nut flat,
tighten the nut until one of the lockscrew holes aligns
with a nut flat.

CAUTION

If the drive sprocket nut requires additional
tightening, do not exceed 150 ft-lb. (203
N•m). Do not loosen the drive sprocket nut to
align the screw hole.

b. Apply threadlock (Loctite 242 or equivalent) to the

drive sprocket lockscrew threads. Then install the
lockscrew into the correct sprocket hole so that it
rests against the nut flat (Figure 54) and tighten to the
torque specification in Table 8.

12B. On 1992-2003 models, perform the following:

a. Install the lockplate onto the nut. Then position the

lockplate so that two of the four lockplate holes (di-
agonally opposite) align with the two tapped sprocket
screw holes; see Figure 59. If the lockplate doesn’t
align with the screw holes, tighten the nut until two
holes align.

CAUTION

If the drive sprocket nut requires additional
tightening, do not exceed 150 ft-lb. (203
N•m). Do not loosen the drive sprocket nut to
align screw holes.

b. Apply threadlock (Loctite 242 or equivalent) to the

two drive sprocket lockscrew threads. Then install
the lockscrews into the two tapped holes. Tighten the
lockscrews to 84-108 in.-lb. (9-12 N•m).

13. Reverse Steps 1-4 to complete assembly. Tighten the
drive sprocket cover screws to 90-110 in.-lb. (10-12 N•m)
and rear master cylinder screws to 155-190 in.-lb. (18-21
N•m).

486

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

56

57

58

59

WARNING

Check that the rear brake is operating prop-
erly before riding the motorcycle.

14. If the rear master cylinder pushrod locknut was loos-
ened, adjust the rear brake as described in Chapter Three.
15. Adjust the drive belt (Chapter Three).

Driven Sprocket Removal/Installation

The driven sprocket (rear) is bolted to the rear wheel

(Figure 60).
1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chapter.
2. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the sprocket to the
hub and remove the sprocket.
3. Replace worn or damaged sprocket fasteners as required.
4. Installation is the reverse of the preceding steps while
noting the following:

a. Apply threadlock (Loctite 262 or equivalent) to the

sprocket bolts prior to installation.

b. Tighten the sprocket nuts and bolts to the torque

specification in Table 13.

WHEEL RUNOUT

1. Remove the front or rear wheel as described in this
chapter.
2. Install the wheel in a wheel truing stand and check the
wheel for excessive wobble or runout.
3. If the wheel is not running true, remove the tire from the
rim as described in this chapter. Then remount the wheel
into the truing stand, and measure axial and lateral runout
(Figure 61) with a pointer or dial indicator. Compare actual
runout readings with the service limit specification in Table
1. Note the following:

WARNING

Do not try to repair damage to a disc wheel.
Replace damage wheels.

a. On disc or cast wheels, if the runout meets or exceeds

the service limit in Table 1, check the wheel bearings
as described in

Front Hub

or

Rear Hub

in this chap-

ter. If the wheel bearings are acceptable, replace the
cast or disc wheel as it cannot be serviced. Inspect the
wheel for cracks, fractures, dents or bends. Replace a
damaged wheel.

b. On laced wheels, if the wheel bearings, spokes, hub

and rim assembly are not damaged, the runout can be
corrected by truing the wheel. Refer to

Laced Wheels

in this chapter. If the rim is dented or damaged, replace
the rim and rebuild the wheel.

4. While the wheel is off, perform the following:

a. Check the brake disc mounting bolts (Figure 62) for

tightness as described in Chapter Sixteen.

b. On the rear wheel, check the driven sprocket bolts

(Figure 63) as described in this chapter.

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

487

13

60

61

Pointer

Lateral runout

Radial runout

62

LACED WHEELS

The laced wheel assembly consists of a rim, spokes, nip-

ples and hub containing the bearings, and spacer.

Inspection

Inspect the wheels regularly for lateral (side-to-side) and

radial (up-and-down) runout, even spoke tension and visi-
ble rim damage. When a wheel has a noticeable wobble, it
is out of true.

Truing a wheel corrects the lateral and radial runout to

bring the wheel back into specification. The condition of
the individual wheel components will affect the ability to
successfully true the wheel. Note the following:
1. Spoke condition–Do not attempt to true a wheel with
bent or damaged spokes. Doing so places an excessive
amount of tension on the spoke and rim. The spoke may
break and/or pull through the spoke nipple hole in the rim
Inspect the spokes carefully and replace any damaged
spokes.
2. Nipple condition–When truing the wheels, the nipples
should turn freely on the spoke. It is common for the spoke
threads to become corroded and make turning the nipple
difficult. Spray penetrating liquid onto the nipple and allow
sufficient time for it to penetrate before trying to force the
nipple loose. Work the spoke wrench in both directions and
continue to apply penetrating liquid. If the spoke wrench
rounds off the nipple, remove the tire from the rim and cut
the spoke(s) out of the wheel.
3. Rim condition–Minor rim damage can be corrected by
truing the wheel; however, trying to correct excessive run-
out caused by impact damage causes hub and rim damage
due to spoke overtightening. Inspect the rims for cracks,
flat spots or dents. Check the spoke holes for cracks or en-
largement. Replace rims with excessive damage.

Wheel Truing

Preliminaries

Before checking runout and truing the wheel, note the

following:
1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condition. Re-
fer to

Front Hub

or

Rear Hub

in this chapter.

2. Verify that wheel runout is within specification. Table 1
lists the lateral (side-to-side) and radial (up-and-down) run-
out limit specifications.
3. The runout can be checked on the motorcycle by mount-
ing a pointer against the fork or swing arm and slowly rotat-
ing the wheel.
4. Perform major wheel truing with the tire removed and
the wheel mounted in a truing stand (Figure 64). If a stand
is not available, mount the wheel on the motorcycle with
spacers on each side of the wheel to prevent it from sliding
on the axle.

5. Use a spoke nipple wrench of the correct size. Using
the wrong type of tool or one that is the incorrect size will
round off the spoke nipples, making adjustment difficult.

Procedure

1. Position a pointer facing toward the rim (Figure 61).
Spin the wheel slowly and check the lateral and radial run-
out. If the rim is out of adjustment, continue with Step 2.

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64

NOTE

If there is a large number of loose spokes,
make sure the hub is centered in the rim. This
must be done visually as there are no hub and
rim centering specifications for these models.

NOTE

The number of spokes to loosen and tighten in
Steps 2 and 3 depends on how far the runout
is out of adjustment. As a minimum, always
loosen two or three spokes, then tighten the
opposite two or three spokes. If the runout is
excessive and affects a greater area along the
rim, a greater number of spokes will require
adjustment.

2. If the lateral (side-to-side) runout is out of specification,
adjust the wheel by using Figure 65 as an example. To
move the rim to the left, loosen and tighten the spokes as
shown. Always loosen and tighten the spokes an equal
number of turns.
3. If the radial (up and down) runout is out of specification,
the hub is not centered in the rim. Draw the high point of the
rim toward the centeriine of the wheel by tightening the
spokes in the area of the high point and on the same side as
the high point, and loosening the spokes on the side oppo-
site the high point (Figure 66). Tighten spokes in equal
amounts to prevent distortion.
4. After truing the wheel, seat each spoke in the hub by tap-
ping it with a flat nose punch and hammer. Then recheck
the spoke tension and wheel runout. Readjust if necessary.
5. Check the ends of the spokes where they are threaded in
the nipples. Grind off ends that protrude through the nip-
ples.

DISC AND CAST WHEELS

Disc and cast wheels consist of a single assembly

equipped with bearings, and a spacer.

While these wheels require less maintenance, they must

be checked periodically for damage. Also, the disc wheel
should be checked prior to installing a new tire. Wheel
bearing service is described in this chapter.

Inspection

WARNING

Do not try to repair any damage to a disc or
cast wheels. Replace damage wheels.

Before checking runout and truing the wheel, note the

following:
1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condition. Re-
fer to the

Front Hub

or

Rear Hub

in this chapter.

2. Perform wheel runout with the tire removed and the
wheel mounted in a truing stand (Figure 64). If a stand is
not available, mount the wheel on the motorcycle with

WHEEL, TIRES AND SECONDARY DRIVE

489

13

Centerline

Rim

Tighten

Loosen

To move rim

66

Hub

Centerline

Tighten
(high point)

Loosen
(low point)

65

spacers on each side of the wheel to prevent it from sliding
on the axle.
3. The maximum lateral (side-to-side) and radial (up-and-
down) runout is listed in Table 1.

WHEEL BALANCE

An unbalanced wheel is unsafe. Depending on the degree

of unbalance and the speed of the motorcycle, the rider may
experience anything from a mild vibration to a violent
shimmy that may causes loss of control.

On cast or disc wheels, weights are attached to the flat

surface on the rim (Figure 67). On laced wheels, the
weights are attached to the spoke nipples (Figure 68).

Before attempting to balance the wheel, make sure the

wheel bearings are in good condition and properly lubri-
cated. The wheel must rotate freely.
1. Remove the front or rear wheel as described in this chap-
ter.
2. Mount the wheel on a fixture (Figure 69) so it can rotate
freely.
3. Spin the wheel and let it coast to a stop. Mark the tire at
the lowest point.
4. Spin the wheel several more times. If the wheel keeps
coming to rest at the same point, it is out of balance.

NOTE

The maximum total allowable weight of all
installed weights on a wheel is 3.5 oz. (866
g.). If the wheel cannot be balanced using the
maximum allowable weights, inspect the
wheel for damage.

5A. On cast or disc wheels, tape a test weight to the upper or
light side of the wheel (Figure 67).
5B. On laced wheels, attach a weight to the spoke (Figure
68) on the upper or light side of the wheel.
6. Experiment with different weights until the wheel co-
mes to a stop at a different position each time it is spun.
7. On cast or disc wheels, remove the test weight and in-
stall the correct size weight.

a. Attach the weights to the flat surface on the rim (Fig-

ure 67). Clean the rim before installing the weights;
otherwise, the weights may fall off.

b. Add weights in 1/4 oz. (7 g) increments. If 1 oz. (28

g) or more must be added to one location, apply half
the amount to each side of the rim.

c. To apply original equipment wheel weights, remove

the paper backing from the weight and apply three
drops of Loctite 420 Superbonder to the bottom of
the weight. Position the weight on the rim, press it
down and hold in position for 10 seconds. To allow
the adhesive to cure properly, do not use the wheel for
8 hours.

8. When fitting weights on laced wheels for the final time,
crimp the weights onto the spoke with slip-joint pliers.

TIRES

Safety

Maintain the tire inflation pressure at the specification in

Table 2. If a different brand of tire is used, follow the infla-
tion recommendation provided by the tire manufacturer.
Tire inflation specifications are cold inflation specifica-
tions. Do not check/adjust tire pressure after riding the
motorcycle.

Always allow the tires to warm up by riding before sub-

jecting them to high cornering loads. Warm tires provide
more adhesion.

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67

68

69