| | | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1986 - 2003 HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL CYCLETECH This chapter covers troubleshooting procedures. Each STARTING THE ENGINE section provides typical symptoms and logical methods for isolating the cause(s). There may be several ways to solve a Engine Fails to Start (Spark Test) problem, but only a systematic approach will be successful Perform the following spark test to determine if the igni- in avoiding wasted time and possibly unnecessary parts re- tion system is operating properly: placement. An engine needs three elements to run properly: cor- CAUTION rect air/fuel mixture, compression and a spark at the right Before removing the spark plugs, clean all de- time. bris from the plug base and surrounding area. Dirt that falls into the cylinder causes rapid If one basic requirement is missing, the engine will not engine wear. run. Gather as much information as possible to aid in diagno- 1. Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the spark sis. Never assume anything and do not overlook the obvi- plug as described in Chapter Three. ous. Make sure there is fuel in the tank. Make sure the fuel shutoff valve is in the on position. NOTE A spark tester is a useful tool for testing spark In most cases, specialized test equipment is not needed to output. Figure 1 shows the Motion Pro Igni- determine whether repairs can be performed at home. On tion System Tester (part No. 08-0122). This the other hand, be realistic and do not attempt repairs be- tool is inserted in the spark plug cap and its yond personal capabilities. base is grounded against the cylinder head. The tool’s air gap is adjustable, and it allows If the motorcycle does require the attention of a profes- the visual inspection of the spark while test- sional, describe the symptoms, conditions and previous ing the intensity of the spark. repair attempts accurately and fully. The more informa- tion a technician has available, the easier it will be to di- 2. Cover the spark plug hole with a clean shop cloth to re- agnose. duce the chance of gasoline vapors being emitted from the Refer to Table 1 and Table 2 at the end of this chapter. hole. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- do not perform this test. The firing of the 1 spark plug can ignite fuel ejected through the spark plug hole. NOTE If a spark plug is used, perform this test with a new spark plug. 4. Turn the ignition switch on. WARNING Do not hold the spark plug, wire or connector, or a serious electrical shock may result. 5. Turn the engine over. A crisp blue spark should be evi- dent across the spark plug electrode or spark tester termi- nals. 2 6. If the spark is good, check for one or more of the follow- ing possible malfunctions: a. Obstructed fuel line or fuel filter. b. Low compression or engine damage. c. Flooded engine. d. Incorrect ignition timing. NOTE If the engine backfires during starting, the ig- nition timing may be incorrect due to a defec- tive ignition component. Refer to Ignition Timing Adjustment in Chapter Three for more information. 7. If the spark is weak or if there is no spark, refer to En- gine is Difficult to Start in this section. 3 Engine is Difficult to Start Check for one or more of the following possible malfunc- tions: 1. Fouled spark plug(s). 2. Improperly adjusted enrichment valve. 3. Intake manifold air leak. 4. A plugged fuel tank filler cap. 5. Clogged fuel line. 6. Contaminated fuel system. 7. An improperly adjusted carburetor. 8. A defective ignition module. 9. A defective ignition coil. 10. Damaged ignition coil primary and/or secondary wires. 3. Insert the spark plug (Figure 2), or spark tester (Figure 11. Incorrect ignition timing. 3), into its plug cap and ground the spark plug base against 12. Low engine compression. the cylinder head. Position the spark plug so the electrode is 13. Incorrect engine oil viscocity. visible. 14. Discharged battery. 15. A defective starter. WARNING 16. Loose or corroded starter and/or battery cables. Mount the spark plug, or tester, away from the 17. A loose ignition sensor and module electrical connector. spark plug hole in the cylinder so the spark plug or tester cannot ignite the gasoline va- 18. Incorrect pushrod length (intake and exhaust valve pors in the cylinder. If the engine is flooded, pushrods interchanged). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Engine Will Not Crank 4 Battery terminal Check for one or more of the following possible malfunc- Starter/field wire tions: terminal 1. Ignition switch turned off. 2. A faulty ignition switch. Field 3. Engine run switch in off position. wire 4. A defective engine run switch. Solenoid 5. Loose or corroded starter and battery cables. 6. A discharged or defective battery. 7. A defective starter. 8. A defective starter solenoid. 9. A defective starter shaft pinion gear. 10. Slipping overrunning clutch assembly. 11. A seized piston(s). Starter 12. Seized crankshaft bearings. Relay 13. A broken connecting rod. terminal ENGINE PERFORMANCE Engine Overheating The following check lists assume the engine runs, but is 1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selection. not operating at peak performance. Refer to the following 2. Incorrect ignition timing or defective ignition system procedure(s) that best describes the symptom(s). components. 3. Improper spark plug heat range. Spark Plugs Fouled 4. Low oil level. 5. Oil not circulating properly. If the spark plugs continually foul, check for the follow- 6. Leaking valves. ing: 7. Heavy engine carbon deposits. 1. Severely contaminated air filter element. 2. Incorrect spark plug heat range. Engine Runs Rough with Excessive Exhaust Smoke 3. Rich fuel mixture. 4. Worn or damaged piston rings. 1. Clogged air filter element. 5. Worn or damaged valve guide oil seals. 2. Rich carburetor adjustment. 6. Excessive valve stem-to-guide clearance. 3. Choke not operating correctly. 7. Incorrect carburetor float level. 4. Water or other fuel contaminants. 5. Clogged fuel line and/or filter. 6. Spark plug(s) fouled. Engine Runs But Misfires 7. Defective ignition components or wiring. 1. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs. 8. Short circuits from damaged wire insulation. 2. Damaged spark plug cables. 9. Loose battery cable connections. 3. Incorrect ignition timing. 10. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing. 4. Defective ignition components. 11. Intake manifold or air filter air leak (carbureted models). 5. An obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve. 6. Obstructed fuel filter. Engine Loses Power 7. Clogged carburetor jets. 8. Loose battery connection. 1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment. 9. Wiring or connector damage. 2. Engine overheating. 10. Water or other contaminates in the fuel. 3. Incorrect ignition timing. 11. Weak or damaged valve springs. 4. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs. 12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing. 5. An obstructed muffler(s). 13. Damaged valve(s). 6. Dragging brake(s). 14. Dirty electrical connections. 15. Intake manifold or carburetor air leak. Engine Lacks Acceleration 16. A plugged carburetor vent hose. 17. Plugged fuel tank vent system. 1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- STARTING SYSTEM 5 2 The starting system consists of the battery, starter, starter 0.1 amp relay, solenoid, start button, starter mechanism and related Start switch wiring. 0.1 amp When the ignition switch is turned on and the start button 20 amp is pushed in, current is transmitted from the battery to the Relay starter relay. When the relay is activated, it activates the Ignition circuit starter solenoid that mechanically engages the starter with breaker the engine. VOM Starting system problems are most often related to a loose or corroded electrical connection. Ignition switch Refer to Figure 4 for starter and solenoid terminal identi- fication. Main circuit breaker Troubleshooting Preparation Before troubleshooting the starting system, check for the Solenoid following: 150 amp Battery 150 amp 1. The battery is fully charged. 2. Battery cables are the proper size and length. Replace damaged or undersized cables. Starter 3. All electrical connections are clean and tight. High re- sistance caused from dirty or loose connectors can affect voltage and current levels. 4. The wiring harness is in good condition, with no worn or frayed insulation or loose harness sockets. 5. The fuel tank is filled with an adequate supply of fresh gasoline. 6. The spark plugs are in good condition and properly gap- 2. Clogged fuel line. ped. 3. Incorrect ignition timing. 7. The ignition system is working correctly. 4. Dragging brake(s). Voltage Drop Test Valve Train Noise Before performing the steps listed in Starter Testing in this section, perform this voltage drop test. These steps 1. A bent pushrod(s). check the entire starting circuit to find weak or damaged 2. A defective hydraulic lifter(s). electrical components that may be causing the starting system problem. A voltmeter is required to test voltage 3. A bent valve(s). drop. 4. Rocker arm seizure or damage (binding on shaft). 1. To check voltage drop in the solenoid circuit, connect 5. Worn or damaged camshaft gear bushing(s). the positive voltmeter lead to the positive battery terminal. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the solenoid termi- 6. Worn or damaged camshaft gear(s). nal (Figure 5). 7. Worn or damaged camshaft drive chain(s). 2. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button while reading the voltmeter scale. Note the following: a. The circuit is operating correctly if the voltmeter ELECTRICAL COMPONENT REPLACEMENT reading is 1 volt or less. A voltmeter reading of 12 volts indicates an open circuit. Most dealerships and suppliers will not accept the return b. A voltage drop of more than 1 volt indicates a prob- of any electrical part. Consider and test results carefully be- lem in the solenoid circuit. fore replacing a component that tests only slightly out of c. If the voltage drop reading is correct, continue with specification. Step 3. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- NOTE Steps 3 and 4 check the voltage drop across 6 the starter ground circuit. To check any 0.1 amp ground circuit in the starting circuit, repeat this test and leave the negative voltmeter Starter switch lead connected to the battery and connect 0.1 amp the positive voltmeter lead to the ground in 20 amp question. Relay Ignition circuit 3. To check the starter ground circuit, connect the negative breaker voltmeter lead to the negative battery terminal. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the starter housing (Figure 6). VOM 4. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button Ignition switch while reading the voltmeter scale. The voltage drop must not exceed 0.2 volts. If it does, check the ground connec- Main circuit tions between the meter leads. breaker 5. If the problem is not found, refer to Starter Testing in this section. Solenoid Starter Testing 150 amp Battery 150 amp CAUTION Never operate the starter for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow the starter to cool Starter before reusing it. Failing to allow the starter to cool after continuous starting attempts can damage the starter. The basic starter-related troubles are: 1. Starter does not spin. 2. Starter spins but does not engage. 3. The starter will not disengage after the start button is re- leased. 4. Loud grinding noises when starter turns. 7 5. Starter stalls or spins too slowly. Starter does not spin 1. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button while listening for a click at the starter relay in the electrical panel. Turn the ignition switch off and note the following: a. If the starter relay clicks, test the starter relay as de- scribed in this section. If the starter relay test readings are correct, continue with Step 2. Battery b. If the solenoid clicks, go to Step 3. c. If there was no click, go to Step 5. 2. Check the wiring connectors between the starter relay and solenoid. Note the following: a. Repair any dirty, loose fitting or damaged connectors C terminal or wiring. 50 terminal b. If the wiring is in good condition, remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve. Perform the solenoid and starter current draw bench tests described in this a. If the voltage drop is less than 1 volt, perform Step 4. section. 3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery and so- b. If the voltage drop is more than 1 volt , check the so- lenoid terminals as described in this section. The normal lenoid and battery wires and connections for dirty or voltage drop is less than 1 volt. Note the following: loose fitting terminals; clean and repair as required. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve. Mo- 8 mentarily connect a fully charged 12-volt battery to the 2 starter as shown in Figure 7. If the starter is operational, it will turn when connected to the battery. Disconnect the bat- tery and note the following: a. If the starter turns, perform the solenoid pull-in and hold-in tests as described in Solenoid Testing (Bench Tests) in this section. b. If the starter does not turn, disassemble the starter as described in Chapter Twelve, and check it for opens, shorts and grounds. 5. Check for voltage at the starter button. Note the follow- ing: a. If there is voltage at the starter button, test the starter 9 relay as described in this section. b. If there is no voltage at the starter button, check conti- nuity across the starter button. If there is voltage lead- ing to the starter button but no voltage leaving the starter button, replace the button switch and retest. If there is no voltage leading to the starter button, check the starter button wiring for dirty or loose-fitting ter- minals or damaged wiring; clean and/or repair as re- quired. Starter spins but does not engage If the starter spins but the pinion gear does not engage the 10 clutch shell ring gear, perform the following: 1. Remove the primary drive cover as described in Chapter Six or Chapter Seven. 2. Check the starter pinion gear (A, Figure 8). If the teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the clutch shell ring gear (B, Figure 8) for the same problems. Note the fol- lowing: a. If the starter pinion gear or clutch ring gear is dam- aged, service the parts. b. If the starter pinion gear and clutch shell ring gear are not damaged, continue with Step 3. 3. Remove and disassemble the starter as described in Chapter Twelve. Then check the overrunning clutch assem- 11 bly (Figure 9) for the following: a. Roller damage (Figure 10). b. Compression spring damage (A, Figure 11). c. Excessively worn or damaged pinion teeth (A, Fig- ure 8). d. Pinion does not run in overrunning direction. e. Damaged clutch shaft splines (B, Figure 11). f. Damaged overrunning clutch assembly (Figure 12). 4. Replace worn or damaged parts as required. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Starter will not disengage after the start button is released 12 1. A sticking solenoid, caused by a worn solenoid com- pression spring (A, Figure 11), can cause this problem. Re- place the solenoid if damaged. 2. On high-mileage motorcycles, the starter pinion gear (A, Figure 8) can jam on a worn clutch ring gear (B). Un- able to return, the starter will continue to run. This condi- tion usually requires ring gear replacement. 3. Check the start button switch and starter relay for inter- nal damage. Test the start switch as described in the Switches section in Chapter Twelve. Test the starter relay as described in this chapter. 13 Loud grinding noises when the starter turns Inductive Incorrect starter pinion gear and clutch shell ring gear en- ammeter gagement (B, Figure 8) or a broken overrunning clutch mechanism (Figure 12) can cause this problem. Remove and inspect the starter as described in Chapter Twelve. Starter stalls or spins too slowly 1. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery and so- Solenoid lenoid terminals as described in this section. The normal voltage drop is less than 1 volts. Note the following: a. If the voltage drop is less than 1 volt, continue with Step 2. Battery b. If the voltage drop exceeds 1 volt, check the solenoid and battery wires and connections for dirty or loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as required. Starter 2. Perform a voltage drop test between the solenoid termi- nals and the starter. The normal voltage drop is less than 1 volt. Note the following: a. If the voltage drop is less than 1 volt, continue with Step 3. b. If the voltage drop exceeds 1 volt, check the solenoid 5. Remove the primary drive cover as described in Chapter and starter wires and connections for dirty or Six or Chapter Seven. Check the starter pinion gear (A, loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as required. Figure 8). If the teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the 3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery ground clutch ring gear (B, Figure 8) for the same problem. wire and the starter as described. The normal voltage drop a. If the starter pinion gear or clutch ring gear is dam- is less than 0.2 volts. Note the following: aged, service it. a. If the voltage drop is less than 0.2 volts, continue b. If the starter pinion gear and clutch ring gear are not with Step 4. damaged, continue with Step 6. b. If the voltage drop exceeds 0.2 volts, check the bat- 6. Remove and disassemble the starter as described in tery ground wire connections for dirty or loose-fitting Chapter Twelve. Check the disassembled starter for opens, terminals; clean and repair as required. shorts and grounds. 4. Refer to Starter Current Draw Tests in this section and perform the first test. Note the following: a. If the current draw is excessive, check for a damaged Starter Current Draw Tests starter. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve and perform the second test. The following current draw test measures the current b. If the current draw reading is correct, continue with (amperage) the starter circuit requires to crank over the en- Step 5. gine. Refer to Table 1 for current draw specifications. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- plugs or grounding tool. Do not remove the spark plugs 14 Battery from the cylinder heads. 2 terminal 3. Connect an inductive ammeter between the starter ter- minal and positive battery terminal (Figure 13). Connect a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to ground (Figure 13). 4. Turn the ignition switch on and press the start button for Ammeter approximately ten seconds. Note the ammeter reading. Relay NOTE terminal The current draw is high when the start but- ton is first pressed, then it will drop and stabi- lize at a lower reading. Refer to the lower stabilized reading during this test. 5. If the current draw exceeds the specification in Table 1, check for a defective starter or starter drive mechanism. Re- move and service these components as described in Chap- ter Twelve. 6. Disconnect the ammeter and jumper cables. Starter Battery mounting Current draw test (starter removed) flange This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery, an in- ductive ammeter, a jumper wire (14-gauge minimum) and three jumper cables (6-gauge minimum). Refer to Figure 14. 15 1. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve. NOTE The solenoid must be installed on the starter during the following tests. 2. Mount the starter in a vise with soft jaws. 3. Connect the 14-gauge jumper cable between the posi- tive battery terminal and the solenoid relay terminal. 4. Connect a jumper cable (6-gauge minimum) between the positive battery terminal and the ammeter. 5. Connect the second jumper cable between the ammeter and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. 6. Connect the third jumper cable between the battery neg- ative terminal and the starter motor mounting flange. A short circuit in the starter or a damaged pinion gear as- 7. Read the ammeter; the maximum no-load current speci- sembly can cause excessive current draw. If the current fication is 90 amps. A damaged pinion gear assembly will draw is low, suspect an undercharged battery or an open cir- cause an excessively high current draw reading. If the cur- cuit in the starting circuit. rent draw reading is low, check for an undercharged battery, or an open field winding or armature in the starter. Current draw test (starter installed) Solenoid Testing (Bench Tests) NOTE This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery and This test requires a fully charged battery and three jumper wires. an inductive ammeter. 1. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Twelve. 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. NOTE 2. Disconnect the two spark plug caps from the spark The solenoid (A, Figure 15) must be installed plugs. Then ground the plug caps with two extra spark on the starter during the following tests. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2. Disconnect the field wire (B, Figure 15) from the sole- noid before performing the following tests. Insulate the end 16 of the wire terminal so that it cannot short out on any of the test connectors. Field wire terminal CAUTION Because battery voltage is being applied di- rectly to the solenoid and starter in the fol- Solenoid lowing tests, do not leave the jumper cables connected to the solenoid for more than 5 sec- onds; otherwise, the voltage will damage the Battery solenoid. NOTE Thoroughly read the following procedure to Starter become familiar with and understand the pro- Relay cedures and test connections, then perform terminal the tests in the order listed and without inter- ruption. 3. Perform the solenoid pull-in test as follows: a. Connect one jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the field wire terminal on the solenoid 17 (Figure 16). b. Connect one jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the solenoid housing (ground) (Figure 16). c. Touch a jumper wire from the positive battery termi- nal to the starter relay terminal (Figure 16). The pin- ion shaft (Figure 17) should pull into the housing. d. Leave the jumper wires connected and continue with Step 4. 4. To perform the solenoid hold-in test, perform the fol- lowing: a. With the pinion shaft pulled in (Step 3), disconnect the field wire terminal jumper wire from the negative battery terminal and connect it to the positive battery 18 terminal (Figure 18). The pinion shaft should remain Field wire terminal in the housing. If the pinion shaft returns to its origi- nal position, replace the solenoid. b. Leave the jumper wires connected and continue with Solenoid Step 5. 5. To perform the solenoid return test, perform the follow- ing: Battery a. Disconnect the jumper wire from the starter relay ter- minal (Figure 19); the pinion shaft should return to its original position. Starter b. Disconnect all of the jumper wires from the solenoid and battery. Relay terminal 6. Replace the solenoid if the starter shaft failed to operate as described in Steps 3-5. Refer to the Starter Solenoid in Chapter Twelve. 1. Remove the starter relay as described in Fuses (1998-2003 Models) in Chapter Twelve. Starter Relay Removal/Testing/Installation CAUTION The battery negative lead must be connected Check the starter relay operation with an ohmmeter, to the relay terminal No. 2 to avoid internal jumper wires and a fully charged 12-volt battery. diode damage. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2. Connect an ohmmeter and 12-volt battery between the 19 relay terminals shown in Figure 20. This setup will ener- 2 gize the relay for testing. 3. Check for continuity through the relay contacts using an Field wire terminal ohmmeter while the relay coil is energized. The correct reading is 0 ohm. If resistance is excessive or if there is no continuity, replace the relay. Solenoid 4. If the starter relay passes this test, reinstall the relay. CHARGING SYSTEM Battery The charging system consists of the battery, alternator and a solid state voltage regulator/rectifier. Starter The alternator generates alternating current (AC) which the rectifier converts to direct current (DC). The regulator Relay maintains the voltage to the battery and load (lights, igni- terminal tion and accessories) at a constant voltage despite varia- tions in engine speed and load. A malfunction in the charging system generally causes the battery to remain undercharged. 20 Service Precautions Before servicing the charging system, observe the fol- lowing precautions to prevent damage to any charging sys- 12-volt battery tem component: 1. Never reverse battery connections. 2. Do not short across any connection. 3. Never start the engine with the alternator disconnected from the voltage regulator/rectifier unless instructed to do so during testing. 4. Never attempt to start or run the engine with the battery disconnected. 5. Never attempt to use a high-output battery charger to 86 85 help start the engine. 87 Ohmmeter 6. Before charging the battery, remove it from the motor- cycle as described in Chapter Twelve. 30 7. Never disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier connec- tor with the engine running. The voltage regulator/rectifier (Figure 21) is mounted on the front frame cross member. 8. Do not mount the voltage regulator/rectifier unit in an- other location. 9. Make sure the negative battery terminal is connected to 21 the terminal on the engine. Troubleshooting Sequence If the battery is discharged, perform the following proce- dures as listed: 1. Test the battery as described in Chapter Twelve. Charge the battery if necessary. If the battery will hold a charge while riding, perform the Charging System Output Test as described in this section. 2. If the charging system output is within specification, de- termine the total amount of current demand by the electrical ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- system and all accessories as described in Electrical System Current Load Test in this section. 22 3. If the charging system output exceeds the current demand and the battery continues to not hold a charge, perform the Battery Current Draw Test as described in this section. 4. If the charging system output is not within specification, test the stator and voltage regulator as described in this sec- tion. Charging System Output Test This test requires a load tester. When using a load tester, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. Load tester 1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully charged. 2. Connect the load tester to the battery per the manufac- turer’s instructions (Figure 22). 3. Start the engine and slowly bring the speed up to 3000 rpm while reading the load tester scale. With the engine running at 3000 rpm, operate the load tester switch until the voltage scale reads 13.0 volts. The tester should show a reg- ulated (DC) current output reading of 19-23 amps. 4. With the engine still running at 3000 rpm, turn the load off and read the load tester voltage scale. Battery voltage should not exceed 15 volts. Turn the engine off and discon- nect the load tester from the motorcycle. 5. Perform the Stator Test described in this section. If the stator tests acceptable, a defective voltage regulator/recti- To circuit breaker (DC output) fier or a wiring short circuit is indicated. Eliminate the pos- sibility of a poor connection or damaged wiring before replacing the voltage regulator/rectifier. Electrical System Current Load Test 23 This test, requiring a load tester, measures the total cur- rent load of the electrical system and any additional acces- Ammeter 12 volt battery sories while the engine is running. Perform this test if the battery is continually discharged, yet the charging system output is within specifications. If aftermarket electrical components have been added to the motorcycle, the increased current demand may exceed the charging systems capacity and result in a discharged battery. 1. Connect a load tester to the battery per the manufac- turer’s instructions. When using a load tester, refer to the Red manufacturer’s instructions. 2. Turn the ignition switch on but do not start the engine. Black To ground Then turn on all electrical accessories and switch the head- light beam to high. 3. Read the ampere reading (current draw) on the load tester and compare it to the test results obtained in the Charging System Output Test in this section. The charging connect them and repeat Step 3. If the electrical system cur- system output test results (current reading) must exceed the rent load is now within the specification, the problem is electrical system current load by 3.5 amps for the battery to with the additional accessories. remain sufficiently charged. 4. If the current load is below specified levels and after- 5. If no accessories have been added to the motorcycle, a market accessories have been added to the motorcycle, dis- short circuit may be causing the battery to discharge. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24 26 2 Ohmmeter Regulator lead Stator lead Regulator lead 4. Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram at the end of this Stator lead manual. Check the charging system wires and connectors for shorts or other damage. 5. Unplug each electrical connector separately and check for a reduction in the current draw. If the meter reading changes after a connector is disconnected, the source of the 25 current draw has been found. Check the electrical connec- tors carefully before testing the individual component. 6. After completing the test, disconnect the ammeter and reconnect the negative battery cable. Stator Test 1. With the ignition turned off, disconnect the regula- tor/rectifier connector that is located below the rear of the primary case (Figure 24) on 1986-1990 models or at the front of the crankcase (Figure 25) on 1991-2003 models. 2. Connect an ohmmeter between either stator connector Battery Current Draw Test terminal and ground (Figure 26). The ohmmeter should read infinity (no continuity). If the reading is incorrect, the stator is grounded and must be replaced. Repeat this test for Perform this test if the battery will not hold a charge the other stator connector terminal. when the motorcycle is not being used. A current draw that 3. Connect an ohmmeter between both stator connector exceeds 3.0 mA will discharge the battery. The battery must terminals. The ohmmeter should read 0.2-0.4 ohms. If the be fully charged to perform this test. resistance is higher than specified, replace the stator. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in 4. Check stator AC output as follows: Chapter Twelve. a. Connect an AC voltmeter between the stator connec- tor terminals as shown in Figure 27. 2. Connect an ammeter between the negative battery cable b. Start the engine and slowly increase idle speed. On end and the ground stud on the engine crankcase as shown 1986-1990 models, the voltage should read 12-18 in Figure 23. volts per each 1000 rpm. On 1991-1994 models, the 3. With the ignition switch, lights and all accessories voltage should read 19-26 volts per each 1000 rpm. turned off, read the ammeter. If the current drain exceeds On 1995-2003 models, voltage should read 38-52 3.0 mA, continue with Step 4. volts at 2000 rpm. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- c. If the AC voltage output reading is below the pre- scribed range, the trouble is probably a faulty stator 27 (Figure 28, typical) or rotor. If these parts are not damaged, perform the Charging System Output Test AC voltmeter in this section. NOTE On 1991-2003 models, if the stator AC output test indicate a faulty stator, check the stator wires where they are held in place by the flat metal clamp plate shown in Figure 29. The clamp plate may have rubbed through the wire’s insulation. 5. Reconnect the regulator/rectifier connector. Regulator lead Voltage Regulator Ground Test Stator lead 1. Switch an ohmmeter to the appropriate scale. 2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine or frame ground and the other ohmmeter lead to the regulator base. Read the ohmmeter scale. The correct reading is 0 ohm. Note the following: a. If there is low resistance (0 ohm), the voltage regula- 28 tor is properly grounded. b. If there is high resistance, remove the voltage regula- tor and clean its frame mounting points. 3. Check the voltage regulator connector (1986-1990 models: Figure 24 or 1991-2003 models: Figure 25) and make sure it is clean and tightly connected. Voltage Regulator Bleed Test 1. Disconnect the voltage regulator connector (1986-1990 models: Figure 24 or 1991-2003 models: Figure 25). Do not disconnect the wire from the voltage regulator to the circuit breaker. 2. Connect one probe of a 12-volt test lamp to a good 29 ground. 3. Connect the other test lamp probe to one of the voltage regulator pins, then to the other pin. 4. If the test lamp lights, replace the voltage regulator. 5. If the test lamp does not light the voltage regulator is functioning properly. Reconnect the voltage regulator con- nector. IGNITION SYSTEM (1986-1997 MODELS) Precautions 3. Do not operate the start switch if the ignition module is The following steps must be taken to protect the ignition not grounded. The black ignition module wire is the ground system: wire. Inspect the wire end for corrosion and damage. Be 1. Never disconnect any of the electrical connectors while sure the ignition module is mounted securely. the engine is running. 2. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of corrosion 4. Apply dielectric grease to all electrical connectors prior and are completely coupled to each other. to reconnecting them. This helps seal out moisture. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30 32 2 0.33 MFD capacitor Voltmeter 16 ga. wire Test jumper 31 1. 1986-1994 models: white 1995-1997 models: white/black Voltmeter 2. 1986-1990 models: blue 1991-1997 models: pink 9. Remove the spark plugs and examine them as described in Chapter Three. Ignition Tests No spark at spark plug (1986-1990 models) Ignition coil 1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully charged (Chapter Twelve). 2. Make sure the black ignition module ground lead is fas- tened securely and make sure the battery ground lead is fas- * 1986-1994 models: white tened and in good condition. 1995-1997 models: white/black NOTE When performing the following test proce- Troubleshooting Preparation dures, it is necessary to fabricate a test jumper from two lengths of 16 gauge wire, 1. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of this manual three clips and a 0.33 MFD capacitor (Fig- for the specific model. ure 30). The test jumper should be long 2. Check the wiring harness for visible signs of damage. enough to reach from the ignition coil to a 3. Make sure all connectors are properly attached to each good engine ground. other and locked in place. 4. Check all electrical components for a good ground. 3. Perform the following: 5. Check all wiring for short circuits or open circuits. a. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the white igni- 6. Make sure all ignition circuit breakers or fuses are in tion coil wire terminal and the negative voltmeter good condition. lead to ground (Figure 31). b. Turn the ignition switch on. The voltmeter should 7. Make sure the fuel tank has an adequate supply of fresh read 11-13 volts. Turn the ignition switch off. gasoline. 8. Check the spark plug cable routing and the connections c. If the voltage is correct, proceed to Step 4. at the spark plugs. If there is no spark or only a weak one, d. If the voltage is incorrect, check the main and igni- repeat the test with new spark plugs. If the condition re- tion circuit breakers (Chapter Twelve). Also check mains the same with new spark plugs and if all external wir- for loose or damaged ignition system wiring. ing connections are good, the problem is most likely in the 4. Perform the following: ignition system. If a strong spark is present, the problem is a. Disconnect the blue wire from the ignition coil termi- probably not in the ignition system. Check the fuel system. nal (Figure 32). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33 34 Ignition coil Jumper wire 1. 1986-1994 models: white 35 1995-1997 models: white/black 2. 1986-1990 models: blue 1991-1997 models: pink Voltmeter b. Turn the ignition switch on. c. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to ground. Con- nect the positive voltmeter lead to the white and blue ignition coil terminals (Figure 33). The voltmeter should read 12 volts at both terminals. Turn the igni- tion switch off. d. If the voltage is correct, proceed to Step 5. e. If the voltage is incorrect, check the ignition coil re- sistance as described in this section. If the resistance is within the prescribed range, proceed to Step 5. 5. Perform the following: Ignition a. Disconnect the blue wire from the ignition coil termi- module nal (Figure 33) if not previously disconnected. side* b. Remove one of the spark plugs. Then connect the spark plug wire and connector to the spark plug and touch the spark plug base to a good ground (Figure 34). Position the spark plug so the electrodes are visible. c. Turn the ignition switch on. 1. 1986-1994 models: red d. Connect the jumper wire (without the capacitor) be- 1995-1997 models: red/white 2. 1986-1994 models: green tween a good engine ground and the ignition coil blue 1995-1997 models: green/white wire terminal as shown in Figure 33. Then momen- 3. 1986-1994 models: black tarily touch the jumper wire with the capacitor to the 1995-1997 models: black/white ignition coil blue wire terminal (Figure 33) while ob- *NOTE: This connector is triangular on serving the spark plug firing tip. The spark plug 1995-1997 models should spark. Turn the ignition switch off and remove the jumper wire assembly. d. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the ignition e. If there was spark, proceed to Step 6. module red wire socket and the negative voltmeter f. There was no spark, replace the ignition coil. lead to the ignition module black pin as shown in Fig- g. Do not reinstall the spark plug at this time. ure 35. The voltmeter should read 4.5-5.5 volts. Dis- 6. Perform the following: connect the voltmeter and turn the ignition switch off. a. Reconnect the ignition coil blue wire to its terminal e. If voltage is correct, proceed to Step 7. on the ignition coil. b. Turn the ignition switch on. f. If voltage is incorrect, check the ignition module c. Disconnect the sensor plate electrical connector lo- (Figure 36) ground wire and the module for dirty or cated behind the sprocket cover. loose-fitting terminals. If okay, proceed to Step 7. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- NOTE 36 When performing these test procedures, it is 2 necessary to fabricate a test jumper from two lengths of 16 gauge wire, three clips and a 0.33 MFD capacitor; see Figure 30. The test jumper should be long enough to reach from the ignition coil to a good engine ground. 3. Perform the following: a. On 1991-1993 models, connect the positive voltmeter lead to the white ignition coil wire terminal and the negative voltmeter lead to ground (Figure 31). On 1994-1997 models, connect the positive voltmeter lead to the white/black ignition coil wire terminal and the negative voltmeter lead to ground (Figure 31). b. Turn the ignition switch on. The voltmeter should Ignition read 11-13 volts. Turn the ignition switch off. 37 module c. If the voltage is correct, proceed to Step 4. side* d. If the voltage is incorrect, check the main and igni- tion circuit breakers or fuses (Chapter Twelve). Also Screwdriver check for loose or damaged ignition system wiring. 4. Perform the following: a. Disconnect the pink wire from the ignition coil termi- nal (Figure 32). b. Turn the ignition switch on. c. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to ground. On 1. 1986-1994 models: red 1991-1993 models, connect the positive voltmeter 1995-1997 models: red/white lead to the white and pink ignition coil terminals sep- 2. 1986-1994 models: green arately. On 1994-1997 models, connect the positive 1995-1997 models: green/white voltmeter lead to the white/black and pink ignition 3. 1986-1994 models: black 1995-1997 models: black/white coil terminals separately. The voltmeter should read 12 volts at both terminals. Turn the ignition switch *NOTE: This connector is triangular on 1995-1997 models off. d. If the voltage is correct, proceed to Step 5. e. If the voltage is incorrect, check the ignition coil re- 7. Make sure the ignition switch on. Then momentarily sistance as described in this section. If the resistance ground a screwdriver across the ignition module green and is within the prescribed range, proceed to Step 5. black connector pins (Figure 37) while observing the spark 5. Perform the following: plug firing tip. There should be a strong spark at the spark a. Disconnect the pink wire from the ignition coil termi- plug firing tip as the screwdriver is removed. Note the fol- nal if not previously disconnected. lowing: b. Remove one of the spark plugs. Then connect the spark plug wire and connector to the spark plug and a. If there was a spark, check the sensor resistance as touch the spark plug base to a good ground (Figure described in this section. 34). Position the spark plug so the electrodes are b. If there was no spark, check the ignition module re- visible. sistance as described in this section. c. Turn the ignition switch on. 8. Install and reconnect all parts removed for this proce- d. Connect the jumper wire (without the capacitor) be- dure. tween a good ground and the ignition coil pink termi- nal (Figure 33). Then momentarily touch the jumper No spark at spark plug wire with the capacitor to the ignition coil pink termi- (1991-1997 models) nal while observing the spark plug firing tip. The spark plug should spark when the wire is 1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully charged disconnected. Turn the ignition switch off and re- (Chapter Twelve). move the jumper wire assembly. 2. Make sure the black ignition module ground lead is fas- e. If there is spark, proceed to Step 6. tened securely and make sure the battery ground lead is fas- f. If there is no spark, replace the ignition coil. tened and in good condition. g. Do not reinstall the spark plug at this time. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6. Perform the following: a. Reconnect the ignition coil pink wire to its terminal 38 on the ignition coil. b. Turn the ignition switch on. c. Disconnect the sensor plate electrical connector (Fig- ure 38). d. On 1991-1993 models, connect the positive voltme- ter lead to the ignition module red wire socket and the negative voltmeter lead to the ignition module black/white pin as shown in Figure 35. On 1994-1997 models, connect the positive voltmeter lead to the ignition module red/white wire socket and the negative voltmeter lead to the ignition module black/white pin as shown in Figure 35, The voltme- ter should read 11.5-12.5 volts. Disconnect the volt- 3. Spray the sensor (Figure 38) with a refrigerant (avail- meter and turn the ignition switch off. able at electronic supply stores). If the engine dies, replace e. If the voltage is correct, proceed to Step 7. the sensor as described in Chapter Twelve. f. If the voltage is incorrect, check the ignition module 4. Allow the engine to warm to normal operating tempera- (Figure 36) ground wire and the module for dirty or ture. Then apply heat to the sensor with a heat gun. If the en- loose-fitting terminals. If okay, proceed to Step 7. gine dies, replace the sensor as described in Chapter Twelve. 7A. On 1991-1993 models, turn the ignition switch on. 5. Remove the ignition module cover from the left side of Then momentarily ground a screwdriver across the ignition the motorcycle. With the engine running, apply heat to the module green and black/white connector pins (Figure 37) ignition module (Figure 36) with a heat gun. If the engine while observing the spark plug firing tip. There should be a dies, replace the module as described in Chapter Twelve. strong spark at the spark plug firing tip as the screwdriver is 6. Install the inner timing cover, gasket and outer timing removed. cover as described in Chapter Twelve. a. If there is spark, check the sensor resistance as de- scribed in this chapter. Vibration test b. If there is no spark, check the ignition module resis- tance as described in this chapter. Read this procedure completely before starting. Refer to 7B. On 1994-1997 models, turn the ignition switch on. Figure 39. Then momentarily ground a screwdriver across the ignition 1. Check the battery connections. Retighten or repair as re- module green/white and black/white connector pins (Fig- quired. ure 37) while observing the spark plug firing tip. There 2. On 1986-1993 models, check the module ground wire should be strong spark at the spark plug firing tip as the connection. If necessary, remove the ground wire at the screwdriver is removed. frame and scrape all paint at the mounting point. Using a a. If there is spark, check the sensor resistance as de- star washer, reinstall the ground wire. scribed in this chapter. 3. Start the engine and retest. If there is still an intermittent b. If there is no spark, check the ignition module resis- problem, proceed to Step 4. tance as described in this chapter. 4A. On 1986-1993 models, disconnect the white ignition 8. Install and reconnect all parts removed for this proce- stop switch wire terminal at the ignition coil. On 1986-1993 dure. models, do not disconnect the white module wire at the ig- nition coil. Refer to the wiring diagram at the end of the Intermittent Ignition Problems manual. 4B. On 1994-1997 models, leave the white/black wire Intermittent problems are usually caused by temperature connected. or vibration variances. Perform the following. 5A. On 1986-1993 models, connect a 16 ga. jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the white ignition coil Temperature test terminal. 5B. On 1994-1997 models, connect a 16 ga jumper wire NOTE from the positive battery terminal to the white/black wire Perform Steps 1-3 with the engine cold. ignition coil terminal. 1. Remove the outer timing cover, inner timing cover and WARNING gasket as described in Chapter Twelve. Steps 4 and 5 have bypassed the ignition stop 2. Start the engine. switch. When performing Step 6, the engine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 39 To ignition module 2 Ignition Disconnect stop switch Ignition coil Ignition switch Main 16 Ga. jumper wire circuit breaker 1. 1986-1993 models: white 1994-1997 models: white/black 2. 1986-1990 models: blue Battery 1991-1997 models: pink tinues, look for an intermittent open in the ignition control module and cam position sensor wiring. 40 7. Stop the motorcycle and then shift it into neutral. Dis- connect the jumper wire and reconnect the white wire (1986-1993 models) at the ignition coil terminal. Secondary terminals Ignition Coil Testing Ohmmeter Disconnect the coil secondary and primary wires before testing. Refer to Figure 40. Compaire readings to specifica- tions noted in Table 2. NOTE When switching between ohmmeter scales in the following tests, always cross the test leads and zero the needle to assure a correct read- Primary terminals ing (analog meter only). 1. Measure the coil primary resistance between both coil primary terminals. 2. Measure the coil secondary resistance between both sec- can only be stopped by removing the jumper ondary terminals. wire. Test by removing the jumper wire before riding the motorcycle. It is suggested to test 3. Replace the ignition coil if either test is not within speci- ride the motorcycle on a paved surface in a fication. secluded area away from all traffic. If you do not feel that you can perform this test safely, or if you do not have access to a safe riding Ignition Control Module and Sensor area, refer testing to a dealership. Resistance Testing (1986-1990 Models) 6. Test-ride the motorcycle. If the problem has stopped, The following tests require a Fluke 23 or Harley- use voltage drop and wiggle tests to identify an intermittent Davidson KMT multimeter (part No. HD35500). If any open caused by a broken wire, poor connection, or defec- other meter is used, the results may be different than the tive switch in the starter safety circuit. If the problem con- specified values listed in these tests. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ignition module ground test 41 1. Remove the outer timing cover, inner timing cover and Control gasket as described in Chapter Twelve module Ohmmeter 2. Disconnect the sensor (Figure 38). side* 3. Connect the ohmmeter positive lead to the module con- nector black pin and the ohmmeter negative lead to ground. 4. The correct resistance reading should be 0-1 ohms. If the reading exceeds 1 ohm, replace the module. 5. Reconnect the connector. Power supply diode test 1. Disconnect the white ignition coil-to-module connector Chassis ground (Figure 39). 2. Connect the ohmmeter positive lead to the white igni- tion coil connector and the negative lead to the module ground wire. The resistance should be 800-1300 ohms. 1. 1991-1994 models: red 3. Switch the test leads. The ohmmeter reading should be 1995-1997 models: red/white infinite. 2. 1991-1994 models: green 1995-1997 models: green/white 4. Replace the module if any test readings are incorrect. 3. 1991-1994 models: black 5. Reconnect the ignition coil-to-module connector. 1995-1997 models: black/white *NOTE: This connector is triangular on Coil driver transistor check 1995-1997 models. 1. Disconnect the blue ignition coil-to-module connector (Figure 39). 3. Connect the ohmmeter positive lead to the sensor con- 2. Connect the ohmmeter positive lead to the blue ignition nector green pin and the ohmmeter negative lead to the sen- coil connector and the negative lead to the module ground sor connector black pin. The correct resistance reading wire. The ohmmeter reading should be infinite. should be infinite. 3. Switch the test leads. The resistance should be 400-800 4. Switch the test leads. The resistance reading should be ohms. 300-750 ohms. 4. Replace the module if any readings is incorrect. 5. Replace the sensor plate if any test readings are incor- 5. Reconnect the ignition coil-to-module connector. rect. 6. Reconnect the module to sensor connector. Ignition sensor ground test 1. Remove the outer timing cover, inner timing cover and Ignition Module and Sensor Resistance Testing gasket as described in Chapter Twelve. (1991-1997 Models) 2. Disconnect the sensor (Figure 38). 3. Connect the ohmmeter positive lead to the sensor con- The following tests require a Fluke 23 or Harley- nector red pin and the ohmmeter negative lead onto the sen- Davidson KMT multimeter (part no. HD35500). If any sor plate. other meter is used, the results may be different than the 4. The ohmmeter should read infinite resistance. specified values listed in these tests. 5. Check the sensor connector black and green pins. In Refer to Figure 41. each case, the ohmmeter should read infinite resistance. 1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. (Chapter 6. If any reading other than infinite was recorded, replace Twelve). the sensor plate. 2. Remove the outer timing cover, inner timing cover and 7. Reconnect the sensor connector. gasket as described in Chapter Twelve 3. Disconnect the sensor (Figure 38). 4. Connect the positive ohmmeter lead to the black module Ignition sensor output test pin and the negative ohmmeter lead to ground. 1. Remove the outer timing cover, inner timing cover and 5. The correct resistance reading is 0-1 ohm. If the reading gasket as described in Chapter Twelve. exceeds 1 ohm, replace the module. 2. Disconnect the sensor connector (Figure 38). 6. Reconnect the connector. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- IGNITION SYSTEM 42 (ALL 1998-2003 MODELS 2 [EXCEPT 1200S MODELS]) Review Precautions and Troubleshooting Preparation in Ignition System (1986-1997 Models) in this chapter. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of this manual. Tools Troubleshooting the ignition system requires a breakout box (part No. HD-42682) as well as the breakout box har- ness adapters (part No. HD-42962). When connected inline Ignition Module Harness Resistance Test in the ignition system, the breakout box provides test points (1991-1997 Models) for checking a live circuit. If the breakout box is not available, fabricate a test har- Refer to Figure 43 ness (Figure 44) from 12 lengths of 16-gauge wire, a male 1. Turn the ignition stop switch (Figure 42) to the off posi- Deutsch (6-pin) connector and two female Deutsch connec- tion. tors (6-socket). Wire the No. 1 pin on the male connector to 2. Disconnect the 7-prong ignition module electrical con- the No. 1 socket on each female connector. No. 2 pin to No. nector. 2 socket, etc. 3. Disconnect the sensor plate 3-prong electrical connector. During testing, connect the harness between the two ends 4. On 1991-1993 models connect the positive ohmmeter of the ignition control module connector (Figure 45) when lead to the No. 4 ignition module connector on the wiring instructed to install the test harness. Probe the second fe- harness side, not on the module side. On 1994-1997 models male connector at the indicated test points. connect the positive ohmmeter lead to pin No. 7 on the igni- Troubleshooting the ignition system also requires the tion module connector on the wiring harness side, not on Harley Davidson harness test kit (part No. HD-41404). the module side. Connect the negative ohmmeter lead to a Different-sized terminals are used in the connectors on a good engine ground. Wiggle the wiring harness and read Sportster. This kit is equipped with different-sized probes the resistance indicated on the ohmmeter. It should be 0-1 for checking the voltage and resistance of the various-sized ohm. Note the following: terminals without damaging the wire insulation. a. If the resistance reading is correct, perform Step 5. b. If a high resistance reading is obtained, check for dirty or loose-fitting terminals or a bare or damaged Troubleshooting Tests wire; clean and repair as required. 1. Perform the procedures described in Troubleshooting 5. Connect the positive ohmmeter lead to the No. 1 ignition Preparation in this chapter. module connector socket on the wiring harness side, not on 2. Perform the spark test described in Starting the engine in the module side. Connect the negative ohmmeter lead to a this chapter. good ground. Wiggle the wiring harness and read the ohm- a. If there is good spark, the problem is not in the igni- meter scale. It should be infinity (high resistance). Note the tion system. Check the fuel system. following: b. If there is no spark or only a weak one, recheck with a a. If the reading is infinity, perform Step 6. new spark plug(s). If the condition remains the same b. If the meter shows a resistance reading, the wire is with new spark plugs and if all external wiring connec- shorting to ground. Repair the wire and retest. tions are good, the problem is most likely in the igni- c. On 1991-1993 models, repeat this test for the follow- tion system; perform the Ignition Test (Continuous or ing ignition module connector sockets: No. 2, 3, 5, 6 No Spark at Spark Plug) described in this section. and 7. d. On 1994-1997 models, repeat this test for the follow- ing ignition module connector sockets: No. 2, 3, 4, 5 Ignition Test and 6. (Continuous or No Spark at Spark Plug) 6. Check each of the ignition module socket wires (except No. 4 on 1991-1993 models or No. 7 on 1994-1997 models) 1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully charged. for continuity with an ohmmeter set on the appropriate Check the battery as described in Chapter Twelve. scale. The reading for each wire should be 0-1 ohm. An in- 2. Make sure the ignition module ground is good. finite reading indicates that there is an open in the wire; NOTE check for a dirty, loose-fitting or a damaged connector or When performing the following test proce- wire. Repair as needed and retest. dures, it will be necessary to fabricate a test | |
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