Harley Davidson FXD DYNA 2019. Service repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams — page 7
120
CHAPTER FOUR
3. Tap the cylinder head with a rubber mallet to free
it, then lift it off the cylinder block.
64
4. Remove the cylinder head gasket.
5. Remove the two O-rings and the cylinder head
dowel pins (Figure 65).
6. Repeat these steps to remove the opposite cylin-
der head.
Inspection
1. Thoroughly clean the outside of the cylinder
head. Use a stiff brush, soap and water and remove
all debris from the cooling fins (Figure 66). If nec-
65
essary, use a piece of wood and scrape away any
lodged dirt. Clogged cooling fins can cause over-
heating, leading to possible engine damage.
2. Without removing the valves, use a wire brush
to remove all carbon deposits from the combustion
chamber. Use a fine wire brush dipped in solvent
or make a scraper from hardwood. Take care not to
damage the head, valves or spark plug threads.
CAUTION
Cleaning the combustion chamber
with the valves removed can damage
the valve seat surfaces. A damaged or
even slightly scratched valve seat will
66
cause poor valve seating.
3. Examine the spark plug threads in the cylinder
head for damage. If damage is minor or if the
threads are dirty or clogged with carbon, use a spark
plug thread tap (Figure 67) to clean the threads fol-
lowing the manufacturer’s instructions. If thread
damage is severe, restore the threads by installing a
steel thread insert. Purchase thread insert kits at au-
tomotive supply stores or have them installed by a
Harley-Davidson dealership or machine shop.
NOTE
67
When using a tap to clean spark plug
threads, coat the tap with an alumi-
num tap-cutting fluid or kerosene.
NOTE
Aluminum spark plug threads are
commonly damaged due to galling,
cross-threading and over-tightening.
To prevent galling, apply an antiseize
compound on the plug threads before
installation and do not overtighten.
ENGINE
121
68
72
4
4. After all carbon is removed from combustion
69
chambers and valve ports, and, if necessary, the
spark plug thread hole is repaired, clean the entire
head in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air.
5. Examine the crown on the piston (Figure 68).
The crown should show no signs of wear or dam-
age. If the crown appears pecked or spongy, also
check the spark plug, valves and combustion cham-
ber for aluminum deposits. If these deposits are
found, the cylinder has overheated. Check for a lean
fuel mixture or other conditions that could result in
preignition.
6. Check for cracks in the combustion chamber, the
intake port (Figure 69), the exhaust port (Figure
70
70). Replace a cracked head if welding can not re-
pair it.
7. Inspect the threads (Figure 71) for the exhaust
pipe mounting bolts for damage. Repair with a tap if
damaged.
NOTE
If the cylinder head is bead-blasted,
clean the head thoroughly with sol-
vent and then with hot soapy water.
Residue grit seats in small crevices
and other areas and can be hard to get
out. Also run a tap through each ex-
posed thread to remove grit from the
71
threads. Residue grit left in the engine
will cause premature wear.
8. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head.
9. Place a straightedge across the gasket surface at
several points and measure for warp by attempting
to insert a feeler gauge between the straightedge
and cylinder head at each location (Figure 72).
Maximum allowable warp is listed in Table 2. Dis-
tortion or nicks in the cylinder head surface could
cause an air leak and result in overheating. If warp
122
CHAPTER FOUR
exceeds the limit, the cylinder head must be resur-
faced or replaced. Consult a Harley-Davidson
73
dealership or machine shop experienced in this
type of work.
10. Check the rocker arm housing mating surfaces
for warp (Figure 73) using the procedure in Step 9.
11. Make sure the breather channel is clear at each
end (Figure 74).
12. Check the valves and valve guides as described
under Valves and Valve Components in this chapter.
Installation
1. If removed, install the piston and cylinder as de-
74
scribed in this chapter.
2. Lubricate the cylinder studs and cylinder head
bolts as follows:
a. Clean the cylinder head bolts in solvent and
dry with compressed air.
b. Apply clean engine oil to the cylinder head
bolt threads and to the flat shoulder surface on
each bolt (Figure 75). Wipe off any excess oil
from the bolts, leave only an oil film on these
surfaces.
3. Install the two dowel pins (Figure 65) into the
top of the cylinder block.
4. Install a new O-ring over each dowel pin. Apply
75
a light coat of clean engine oil to the O-rings.
CAUTION
Because the O-rings center the head
gasket on the cylinder block, install
them before installing the head gas-
ket.
5. Install a new cylinder head gasket (Figure 76)
onto the cylinder block.
CAUTION
Do not use sealer on the cylinder head
gasket. If using an aftermarket head
76
gasket, follow the manufacturer’s in-
structions for gasket installation.
NOTE
The cylinder heads are not identical.
Refer to the FRONT or REAR mark
(Figure 77) cast into the top surface
of the cylinder head.
6. Install the cylinder head (Figure 78) onto the
cylinder block and the dowel pins. Position the head
ENGINE
123
77
81
4
carefully to avoid moving the head gasket out of
78
alignment.
7. Install the cylinder head long bolts in the center
bolt holes; install the short bolts in the outer bolt
holes next to the spark plug hole. Tighten the cylin-
der head bolts (Figure 64) only finger-tight at this
time.
CAUTION
Failure to follow the torque pattern
and sequence in Step 8 may cause cyl-
inder head distortion and gasket leak-
age.
8. Refer to Figure 79 for the front and rear cylinder
79
head bolt tightening sequence. Torque the cylinder
head bolts as follows:
Front cylinder head
Rear cylinder head
a. Starting with bolt No. 1, tighten each bolt in
order to 84-108 in.-lb. (9-12 N•m).
b. Starting with bolt No. 1, tighten each bolt in
order to 144-168 in.-lb. (16-19 N•m).
c. Make a vertical mark with a permanent
marker on each bolt head (A, Figure 80).
Make another mark on the cylinder head (B,
Figure 80) at a 90-degree angle, or 1/4 turn
from the mark on the bolt head.
d. Use the marks as a guide and tighten each
bolt head 90 degrees, or 1/4 turn, clockwise
80
until the match marks are aligned (Figure
81).
9. Install the rocker arm assemblies and pushrods
as described in this chapter.
VALVES AND VALVE COMPONENTS
Complete valve service requires a number of spe-
cial tools, including a valve spring compressor, to
remove and install the valves. The following proce-
124
CHAPTER FOUR
dures describe how to check for valve component
wear and to determine what type of service is re-
82
quired.
Valve Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head as described in this
chapter.
2. Install the valve spring compressor (Figure 82)
squarely over the valve spring upper retainer (Fig-
ure 83) and against the valve head.
CAUTION
To avoid loss of spring tension, com-
83
press the spring only enough to re-
move the valve keepers.
3. Tighten the valve spring compressor until the
valve keepers separate from the valve stem. Lift the
valve keepers out through the valve spring com-
pressor with a magnet or needlenose pliers.
4. Gradually loosen the valve spring compressor
and remove it from the cylinder head.
5. Remove the spring retainer and the
valve
springs.
CAUTION
84
Remove any burrs from the valve stem
groove before removing the valve
(Figure
84); otherwise the valve
Deburr
guide will be damaged as the valve
stem passes through it.
6. Remove the valve from the cylinder while rotat-
ing it slightly.
Valve stem
7. Remove the valve spring lower retainer.
8. Remove the valve guide oil seal.
CAUTION
Keep the components of each valve
assembly together by placing each set
85
in a divided carton, or into separate
small boxes or small reclosable plas-
tic bags. Identify the components as
either intake or exhaust. If both cylin-
ders are disassembled, also label the
components as front and rear. Do not
intermix components from the valves
or excessive wear may result.
9. Repeat Steps 3-8 and remove the remaining
valve.
ENGINE
125
Valve Inspection
86
When measuring the valves and valve compo-
nents in this section, compare the actual measure-
ments to the new and wear limit specifications in
Table 2. Replace parts that are out of specification
or show damage as described in this section.
1. Clean valves in solvent. Do not gouge or damage
the valve seating surface.
2. Inspect the valve face. Minor roughness and pit-
4
ting (Figure 85) can be removed by lapping the
valve as described in this chapter. Excessive un-
evenness to the contact surface is an indication that
the valve is not serviceable.
87
3. Inspect the valve stem for wear and roughness.
Then measure the valve stem outside diameter with
a micrometer (Figure 86).
4. Remove all carbon and varnish from the valve
guides with a stiff spiral wire brush before measur-
ing wear.
5. Measure the valve guide inside diameter with a
small hole gauge (Figure 87). Measure at the top,
center and bottom positions. Then measure the
small hole gauge.
6. Determine the valve stem-to-valve guide clear-
ance by subtracting the valve stem outside diame-
ter from the valve guide inner diameter. Compare
88
this measurement to the specification listed in Ta-
Valve
Dial gauge
ble 2.
7. If a small hole gauge is not available, insert
each valve into its guide. Attach a dial indicator to
the valve stem next to the head (Figure 88). Hold
the valve just slightly off its seat and rock it side-
ways in both directions 90 degrees to each other.
If the valve rocks more than slightly, the guide is
probably worn. However, as a final check, take
the cylinder head to a Harley-Davidson dealer-
ship or machine shop and have the valve guides
measured.
8. Check the inner and outer valve springs as fol-
89
lows:
a. Check each of the valve springs (Figure 89)
for visual damage.
b. Use a square and visually check the spring for
distortion or tilt (Figure 90).
c. Measure the valve spring free length with a
vernier caliper (Figure 91) and check against
the dimension in Table 2.
d. Repeat for each valve spring.
e. Replace defective springs as a set (inner and
outer).
126
CHAPTER FOUR
9. Check the valve spring upper and lower retainers
seats for cracks or other damage.
90
10. Check the valve keepers and their fit onto the
valve stem end (Figure 92). They must index
tightly into the valve stem groove.
11. Inspect the valve seats (Figure 93) in the cylin-
der head. If worn or burned, they may be recondi-
tioned as described in this chapter. Seats and valves
in near-perfect condition can be reconditioned by
lapping with fine carborundum paste. Check as fol-
lows:
a. Clean the valve seat and corresponding valve
mating areas with contact cleaner.
b. Coat the valve seat with layout fluid.
c. Install the valve into its guide and tap it
against its seat with a valve lapping tool. Do
not rotate the valve.
d. Lift the valve out of the guide and measure
the seat width at various points around the
seat with a vernier caliper.
e. Compare the seat width with the specification
in Table 2. If the seat width is less than speci-
fied or uneven, resurface the seats as de-
scribed in this chapter.
f. Remove all layout fluid residue from the seats
and valves.
91
Valve Installation
1. Clean the end of the valve guide.
2. Install the spring lower retainer (Figure 94).
Push it down until it is seated on the cylinder head
surface (Figure 95).
3. Coat a valve stem with Torco MPZ, molybde-
num disulfide paste or equivalent. Install the valve
part way into the guide. Then, slowly turn the valve
as it enters the oil seal and continue turning it until
the valve is installed all the way.
92
4. Work the valve back and forth in the valve guide
to ensure the lubricant is distributed evenly within
the valve guide.
5. Withdraw the valve and apply an additional coat
of the lubricant.
6. Reinstall the valve into the valve guide but do
not push the valve past the top of the valve guide.
7. Use isopropyl alcohol and thoroughly clean all
traces of lubricant from the outer surface of the
valve guide.
ENGINE
127
93
97
4
CAUTION
94
Do not allow any of the retaining
compound to enter the valve guide
bore.
8. Apply Loctite Retaining Compound RC/620, or
an equivalent, to the oil seal seating surface and to
the outer surface of the valve guide.
9. Push the valve all the way into the cylinder head
until it bottoms (A, Figure 96).
CAUTION
The oil seal will be torn as it passes
the valve stem keeper groove if the
plastic capsule is not installed in Step
95
10. The capsule is included in the top
end gasket set.
10. Hold the valve in place and install the plastic
capsule (B, Figure 96) onto the end of the valve
stem. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the
outer surface of the capsule.
11. With the valve held in place, install the oil seal
(Figure 97) onto the valve stem.
12A. If special tools are used, use the
Harley-Davidson Valve Seal Installation tool
(part No. HD-34643A) and driver handle (part
No. HD-34740) (Figure 98) and push the oil seal
down until it bottoms on the cylinder head sur-
96
face.
12B. If special tools are not used, use an appropri-
ate-size deep socket (Figure 99), and push the oil seal
down until it bottoms on the cylinder head surface.
13. Remove the plastic capsule from the valve
stem. Keep the capsule as it will be used on the re-
maining valves.
14. Install the inner valve spring (Figure 100) and
make sure it is properly seated on the lower spring
retainer.
128
CHAPTER FOUR
98
VALVE SEAL
99
INSTALLATION
100
1. Driver handle
2. Valve seal installation tool
3. Valve guide seal
101
4. Valve guide
5. Lower spring seat
15. Install the outer valve spring (Figure 101) and
make sure it is properly seated on the lower spring
retainer.
16. Install the upper spring retainer (Figure 102)
on top of the valve springs.
CAUTION
To avoid loss of spring tension, com-
press the springs only enough to in-
102
stall the valve keepers.
17. Compress the valve springs with a valve spring
compressor (Figure 82) and install the valve keep-
ers (Figure 103).
18. Make sure both keepers are seated around the
valve stem prior to releasing the compressor.
19. Slowly release tension from the compressor
and remove it. After removing the compressor, in-
spect the valve keepers to make sure they are prop-
ENGINE
129
erly seated (Figure 104). Tap the end of the valve
103
stem with a soft-faced hammer to ensure that the
keepers are properly seated.
20. Repeat Steps 1-19 for the remaining valves.
21. Install the cylinder head as described in this
chapter.
Valve Guide Replacement
4
Tools
The following tools or their equivalents are re-
quired to replace the valve guides.
1. Driver handle and remover (HD-34740).
104
2. Valve guide installation sleeve (HD-34741).
3. Valve guide, reamer
(HD-39932) and
T-handle (HD-39847).
4. Valve guide reamer (HD-39964) and honing
lubricant.
5. Valve guide hone (HD-34723).
6. Valve guide brush (HD-34751).
Procedure
1. Place the cylinder head on a wooden surface
with the combustion chamber side facing down.
105
2. Shoulderless valve guides (Figure 105) are used.
Before the valve guides are removed, note and record
the shape of the guide that projects into the combus-
tion chamber. If the valve guide installation tool is
not going to be used, measure the distance from the
face of the guide to the cylinder head surface with a
vernier caliper (Figure 106). Record the distance for
each valve guide. The new valve guides must be in-
stalled to this exact same height dimension.
3. Remove the valve guides as follows:
CAUTION
Use the correct size valve guide re-
106
moval tool when removing the valve
guides; otherwise, the tool may ex-
pand the end of the guide. An ex-
panded guide will widen and damage
the guide bore in the cylinder head as
it passes through it.
NOTE
The valve guides can either be
pressed out or driven out. Pressing
out is recommended since it lessens
the chance of cylinder head damage.
130
CHAPTER FOUR
a. Support the cylinder head so that the combus-
tion chamber faces down.
107
b. If driving the guides out, place the cylinder on
a piece of wood.
c. If pressing the guides out, support the cylin-
der head in the press so that the valve guide is
perpendicular to the press table with a cylin-
der head stand (JIMS part No. 39782).
d. Insert the driver handle and remover into the
top of the valve guide.
e. Press or drive the valve guide out through the
combustion chamber.
f. Repeat for the remaining valve guides.
4. Clean the valve guide bores in the cylinder head.
5. Because the valve guide bores in the cylinder
head may have enlarged during removal of the old
guides, measure each valve guide bore prior to pur-
chasing the new guides. Then purchase the new
valve guides to match its respective bore diameter.
Determine the bore diameter as follows:
a. Measure the valve guide bore diameter in the
cylinder head with a bore gauge or snap
gauge. Record the bore diameter.
b. The new valve guide outside diameter must be
0.0020-0.0033 in.
(0.050-0.084
mm) larger
guide’s installed height using a vernier caliper (Fig-
than the guide bore in the cylinder head. When
ure 106) when installing it.
purchasing new valve guides, measure the new
guide’s outside diameter with a micrometer. If
NOTE
the new guide’s outside diameter is not within
Replacement valve guides are sold
this specification, oversize valve guide(s) must
with a smaller inside diameter than
be installed. See a Harley-Davidson dealership
the valve stem, so the guide must be
reamed to fit the valve stem.
for available sizes.
6. Apply a thin coating of molylube or white grease
8. Ream the new valve guide as follows:
to the entire outer surface of the valve guide before
a. Apply a liberal amount of reamer lubricant to
installing it in the cylinder head.
the ream bit and to the valve guide bore.
CAUTION
b. Start the reamer straight into the valve guide
When installing oversize valve
bore.
guides, make sure to match each
guide to its respective bore in the cyl-
CAUTION
inder head.
Apply pressure only to the end of the
drive socket. If pressure is applied to
7. Install the new guide using the driver handle and
the T-handle it will result in an uneven
valve guide installation tools. Press or drive the
rough cut and a tapered bore.
guide into the cylinder head until the valve guide in-
stallation tool bottoms out on the cylinder head sur-
c. Apply thumb pressure to the end of the drive
face. When the tool bottoms on the cylinder head
socket portion of the T-handle while rotating
surface, the valve guide is installed to the correct
the T-handle clockwise. Only light pressure is
height. If the driver handle tool is not used, install
required. Apply additional lubricant onto the
the valve guide to the same height recorded prior to
reamer and into the valve guide while rotating
removing the valve guide; measure the valve
the reamer.
ENGINE
131
duced during the honing operation. Repeat this step
108
until all of the valve guides are thoroughly cleaned.
Then rinse the cylinder head and valve guides in
clear, cold water and dry with compressed air.
12. After cleaning and drying the valve guides, ap-
ply clean engine oil to the guides to prevent rust.
13. Resurface the valve seats as described in Valve
Seat Reconditioning in this chapter.
4
Valve seat width
Valve Seat Inspection
1. Remove all carbon residue from each valve seat.
Then clean the cylinder head as described under
Valve Inspection in this chapter.
NOTE
The most accurate method of check-
d.
Continue to rotate the reamer until the entire
ing the valve seat width and position
bit has traveled through the valve guide and
is with machinist’s dye.
the shank of the reamer rotates freely.
2. Check the valve seats in their original locations
CAUTION
with machinist’s dye as follows:
Never back the reamer out through
a. Thoroughly clean the valve face and valve
the valve guide as the guide will be
seat with contact cleaner.
damaged.
b. Spread a thin layer of Prussian blue or ma-
e.
Remove the T-handle from the reamer. Re-
chinist’s dye evenly on the valve face.
move the reamer out from the combustion
c. Insert the valve into its guide.
chamber side of the cylinder head.
d. Support the valve by hand (Figure 107) and
f.
Apply low-pressure compressed air and clean
tap the valve up and down in the cylinder
out the small shavings from the valve guide
head. Do not rotate the valve or a false read-
bore. Then clean the valve guide bore with the
ing will result.
small spiral brush.
e. Remove the valve and examine the impres-
9.
Hone the valve guide as follows:
sion left by the machinist’s dye. The impres-
a. Install the valve guide hone into a high-speed
sions on the valve and the seat must be even
electric drill.
around their circumferences and the width
b. Lubricate the valve guide bore and hone
(Figure 108) must be within the specifica-
stones with the reamer lubricant—do not use
tions in Table 2. If the width is beyond the
motor oil.
specification or if the impression is uneven
c. Carefully insert the hone stones into the valve
recondition the valve seats.
guide bore.
3. Closely examine the valve seat in the cylinder
d. Start the drill and move the hone back and
head (Figure 93). It must be smooth and even with a
forth in the valve guide bore for 10 to 12 com-
polished seating surface.
plete strokes. Work for a 60° crosshatch pat-
4. If the valve seat is in good condition, install the
tern.
valve as described in this chapter.
5. If the valve seat is not correct, recondition the
10. Repeat for each valve guide.
valve seat as described in this chapter.
11. Soak the cylinder head in a container filled with
hot, soapy water. Then clean the valve guides with a
valve guide brush or an equivalent bristle
Valve Seat Reconditioning
brush—do not use a steel brush. Do not use clean-
ing solvent, kerosene or gasoline as these chemicals
Valve seat reconditioning requires considerable
will not remove all of the abrasive particles pro-
expertise and special tools. In most cases it is more
132
CHAPTER FOUR
economical and practical to have these procedures
performed by an experienced machinist.
109
The following procedure is provided for those
equipped to perform the task. A valve seat cutter set
(HD-35758A) or equivalent is required. Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions.
Refer to Figure 109 for valve seat angles. While
Cylinder head
the valve seat angles for both the intake and exhaust
valves are the same, different cutter sizes are re-
Seat
quired. Also note that a 45-degree seat angle is
Valve
specified when grinding the seats, while a
60°
46-degree seat angle is specified when cutting seats.
0.040-0.062 in.
1. Clean the valve guides as described under In-
(1.02-1.57 mm)
spection in this chapter.
2. Carefully rotate and insert the solid pilot into the
valve guide. Make sure the pilot is correctly seated.
31°
46° cutting
45° grinding
Margin
CAUTION
Valve seat accuracy depends on a cor-
rectly sized and installed pilot.
3. Using the 45-degree grinding stone or 46-degree
cutter, descale and clean the valve seat with one or
two turns.
8. Reinsert the solid pilot into the valve guide. Be
certain the pilot is properly seated. Install the 31°
CAUTION
cutter onto the solid pilot and lightly cut the seat to
Measure the valve seat contact area in
remove 1/4 of the existing valve seat.
the cylinder head (Figure 108) after
each cut to make sure its size and area
9. Install the 60° cutter onto the solid pilot and
are correct. Over-grinding will sink
lightly cut the seat to remove the lower 1/4 of the
the valves too far into the cylinder
existing valve seat.
head, requiring replacement of the
10. Measure the valve seat with a vernier caliper.
valve seat.
Then fit the 45° grinding stone or 46° cutter onto the
4. If the seat is still pitted or burned, turn the cutter
solid pilot and cut the valve seat to the specified seat
until the surface is clean. Work slowly and carefully
width in Table 2.
to avoid removing too much material from the valve
11. When the valve seat width is correct, check
seat.
valve seating as follows.
5. Remove the pilot from the valve guide.
12. Remove the solid pilot from the cylinder head.
6. Apply a small amount of valve lapping com-
13. Inspect the valve seat-to-valve face impression
pound to the valve face and install the valve. Rotate
as follows:
the valve against the valve seat using a valve lap-
a. Clean the valve seat with contact cleaner.
ping tool. Remove the valve.
7. Measure the valve seat with a vernier caliper
b. Spread a thin layer of Prussian Blue or ma-
(Figure 108 and Figure 109). Record the measure-
chinist’s dye evenly on the valve face.
ment to use as a reference point when performing
c. Insert the valve into its guide.
the following.
d. Support the valve with two fingers and turn it
with the valve lapping tool.
CAUTION
The
31° cutter removes material
e. Remove the valve and examine the impres-
quickly. Work carefully and check the
sion left by the Prussian blue or machinist’s
progress often.
dye.
ENGINE
133
Valve Lapping
110
If valve wear or distortion is not excessive, at-
tempt to restore the valve seal by lapping the valve
to the seat.
After lapping the valves, install the valve assem-
Port
blies and test each valve seat for a good seal by
pouring solvent into the ports (Figure 110). If the
Solvent
seal is good, no solvent will leak past the seat sur-
or
4
kerosene
face. If solvent leaks past any seat the combustion
chamber will appear wet. Disassemble the leaking
valve and repeat the lapping procedure or recondi-
tion the valve as described in this chapter.
1. Smear a light coating of fine grade valve lapping
compound on the seating surface of the valve.
2. Insert the valve into the head.
3. Wet the suction cup of the lapping tool and stick
Combustion
it onto the head of the valve. Lap the valve to the
Valve
chamber
seat by spinning the tool between both hands while
lifting and moving the valve around the seat 1/4 turn
at a time.
4. Wipe off the valve and seat frequently to check
the progress. Lap only enough to achieve a precise
f. Measure the valve seat width (Figure 108 and
seating ring around the valve face.
Figure 109). Refer to Table 2 for the correct
5. Closely examine the valve seat in the cylinder
seat width.
head. The seat must be smooth and even with a pol-
g. The valve seat contact area must be in the
ished seating ring.
center of the valve face area.
6. Thoroughly clean the valves and cylinder head
14. If the contact area is too high on the valve, or if
in solvent to remove all grinding compound resi-
it is too wide, cut the seat with the 31° cutter. This
due. Compound left on the valves or the cylinder
will remove part of the top valve seat area to lower
head will cause rapid engine wear.
or narrow the contact area.
7. After installing the valves into the cylinder head,
15. If the contact area is too low on the valve, or
test each valve for proper seating. Check by pouring
if it is too wide, use the 60° cutter and remove part
solvent into the intake and exhaust ports. Solvent
of the lower area to raise and narrow the contact
must not leak past the valve seats. If leakage occurs,
area.
the combustion chamber will appear wet. If solvent
16. After obtaining the desired valve seat position
leaks past any of the seats, disassemble that valve
and angle, use the 45° grinding stone or the 46° cut-
assembly and repeat the lapping procedure until
ter and very lightly clean off any burrs caused by the
there is no leakage.
previous cuts.
17. When the contact area is correct, lap the valve
Valve Seat Replacement
as described in this chapter.
18. Repeat Steps 1-17 for the remaining valve
Valve seat replacement requires considerable ex-
seats.
perience and equipment. Refer this work to a
19. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and all
Harley-Davidson dealership or machine shop.
valve components in solvent, then clean with deter-
gent and hot water and rinse in cold water. Dry with
compressed air. Then apply a light coat of engine oil
CYLINDER
to all non-aluminum metal surfaces to prevent rust
formation.
Refer to Figure 111.
134
CHAPTER FOUR
111
PISTON/CYLINDER BLOCK ASSEMBLY
1. Upper compression ring
2. Lower compression ring
3. Upper oil ring
4. Spacer
5. Lower oil ring
6. Retaining ring
7. Piston
8. Connecting rod bushing
9. Connecting rod
10. Piston pin
11. O-ring
12. Locating dowel
13. Cylinder block
14. O-ring seal
Removal
112
1. Remove the cylinder head as described in this
chapter.
2. Remove all dirt and debris from the cylinder base.
3. If still in place, remove the two dowel pins and
O-rings (Figure 112) from the top of the cylinder
block.
4. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at bottom
dead center (BDC).
NOTE
The front and rear cylinder blocks are
identical (same part number). Mark
each cylinder block so they will be re-
installed in their original positions.
113
5. Pull the cylinder straight up and off the piston and
cylinder studs. If necessary, tap around the perimeter
of the cylinder with a rubber or plastic mallet.
6. Place clean shop rags (A, Figure 113) into the
crankcase opening to prevent objects from falling
undetected into the crankcase.
7. Remove the O-ring seal (B, Figure 113) from
the locating dowel. Leave the locating dowels in
place unless they are loose.
ENGINE
135
8. Remove the O-ring (Figure 114) from the base
114
of the cylinder.
9. Install a vinyl or rubber hose over each stud
(Figure 115). This will protect both the piston and
the studs from damage.
CAUTION
After removing the cylinder, use care
when working around the cylinder
studs to prevent bending or damaging
4
them. The slightest bend could cause
the stud to fail.
10. Repeat these steps to remove the other cylinder.
115
Inspection
To obtain an accurate cylinder bore measure-
ment, the cylinder must be torqued between torque
plates. Measurements made without the torque
plates will be inaccurate and may vary by as much
as 0.001 in. (0.025 mm). Refer this procedure to a
shop equipped and experienced with this procedure
if the tools are not available.
The torque plates (Figure 116) shown in this proce-
dure are JIMS Cylinder Torque Plates (part No. 1287).
The cylinder block bore must be thoroughly clean
to obtain accurate measurements. The cylinder
116
must be at room temperature to obtain accurate
measurements. Do not measure the cylinder imme-
diately after it has been honed, as it will still be
warm. Measurements can vary by as much as 0.002
in. (0.051 mm) if the cylinder block is not at room
temperature.
1. Thoroughly clean the outside of the cylinder.
Use a stiff brush, soap and water and clean all debris
from the cooling fins (Figure 117). If necessary, use
a piece of wood and scrape away any lodged dirt.
Clogged cooling fins can cause overheating leading
to possible engine damage.
117
2. Carefully remove all gasket residue from the top
and bottom cylinder block gasket surfaces.
3. Thoroughly clean the cylinder with solvent and
dry with compressed air. Lightly oil the cylinder
block bore to prevent rust.
4. Check the top and bottom cylinder gasket sur-
faces with a straightedge and feeler gauge (Figure
118). Replace the cylinder if warp exceeds the limit
in Table 2.
5. Check the cylinder bore (Figure 119) for scuff
marks, scratches or other damage.
136
CHAPTER FOUR
6. Install the torque plate onto the cylinder (Figure
120) following the manufacturer’s instructions.
118
7. Measure the cylinder bore with a bore gauge or
inside micrometer (Figure 121) at the positions in-
dicated in Figure 122. Perform the first measure-
ment 0.500 in. (12.7 mm) below the top of the
cylinder (Figure 122). Do not measure areas where
the rings do not travel.
8. Measure in two axes-aligned with the piston pin
and at
90 degrees to the pin. If the taper or
out-of-round measurements exceed the service lim-
its in Table 2, bore both cylinders to the next over-
size and install oversize pistons and rings. Confirm
the accuracy of all measurements and consult with a
119
parts supplier on the availability of replacement
parts before having the cylinder serviced.
9. Remove the torque plates.
10. If the cylinders were serviced, wash each cylin-
der in hot, soapy water to remove the fine grit mate-
rial left from the boring or honing process. After
washing, run a clean white cloth through the cylin-
der bore. If the cloth shows traces of grit or oil, the
bore is not clean. Repeat until the cloth passes
through cleanly. When the bore is clean, dry with
compressed air, then lubricate with clean engine oil
to prevent the bore from rusting.
CAUTION
120
The use of hot soapy water is the only
procedure that will completely clean
the cylinder bore. Solvent and kero-
sene cannot wash fine grit out of the
cylinder crevices. Abrasive grit left in
the cylinder will cause premature en-
gine wear.
Cylinder Studs and Cylinder Head Bolts
Inspection and Cleaning
The cylinder studs and cylinder head bolts must
be in good condition and properly cleaned prior to
installing the cylinder blocks and cylinder heads.
121
Damaged or dirty studs may cause cylinder head
distortion and gasket leakage.
CAUTION
The cylinder studs, cylinder head
bolts and washers consist of hardened
material. Do not substitute these
items with a part made of a lower
grade material. If replacement is re-
quired, purchase the parts from the
manufacturer.
ENGINE
137
1. Inspect the cylinder head bolts. Replace any that
122
are damaged.
2. Examine the cylinder studs (A, Figure 123) for
bending, looseness or damage. Replace studs as de-
scribed under Cylinder Stud Replacement in this chap-
ter. If the studs are in good condition, perform Step 3.
3. Cover both crankcase openings with shop rags
(B, Figure 123) to prevent debris from falling into
the engine.
4
4. Remove all carbon residue from the cylinder
studs and cylinder head bolts as follows:
a. Apply solvent to the cylinder stud and mating
cylinder head bolt threads and thread the bolt
onto the stud.
b. Turn the cylinder head bolt back and forth to
loosen and remove the carbon residue from
the threads. Remove the bolt from the stud.
Wipe off the residue with a shop rag moist-
ened in cleaning solvent.
c. Repeat until both thread sets are free of all
carbon residues.
d. Spray the cylinder stud and cylinder head bolt
with an aerosol parts cleaner and allow them
to dry.
e. Set the cleaned bolt aside and install it on the
same stud when installing the cylinder head.
5. Repeat Step 4 for each cylinder stud and cylinder
123
head bolt set.
Installation
NOTE
If installing a cylinder block that has
been bored oversize, the inner
lead-in angle at the base of the bore
skirt
(Figure 124) has been elimi-
nated. This lead-in angle is neces-
sary so the piston rings can safely
enter the cylinder bore. If necessary,
use a chamfering cone (JIMS part
124
No. 2078) or a hand grinder with a
fine stone and grind in a new lead-in
angle. The finished surface must be
smooth so it will not catch and
damage the piston rings during instal-
lation.
1. If removed, install the pistons and rings as de-
scribed in this chapter.
2. Remove all gasket residue and clean the cylinder
block as described under Inspection in this chapter.
138
CHAPTER FOUR
3. Remove the vinyl or rubber hose from each stud
(A, Figure 125).
125
4. Install a new O-ring onto the base of the cylinder
block. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the
O-ring.
5. If removed, install the locating dowels (Figure
126) into the crankcase.
6. Install a new O-ring seal (B, Figure 113) onto
the locating dowel. Apply a light coat of clean en-
gine oil to the O-ring.
7. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at top dead
center (TDC).
8. Lubricate the cylinder bore, piston and piston
rings liberally with clean engine oil.
126
9. Position the top compression ring gap so it is fac-
ing the intake port. Then stagger the remaining pis-
ton ring end gaps so they are 90 to 180° from the gap
of the ring above it (Figure 127).
10. Compress the piston rings with a ring compres-
sor (B, Figure 125).
NOTE
Install the cylinder in its original po-
sition as noted during removal.
11. Carefully align the cylinder (front facing for-
ward) with the cylinder studs and slide it down
127
(Figure 128) until it is over the top of the piston.
Then continue sliding the cylinder down and past
the rings (Figure 129). Remove the ring compres-
sor once the piston rings enter the cylinder bore. Re-
move the shop rag from the crankcase opening.
12. Continue to slide the cylinder down until it bot-
toms out on the crankcase.
13. Repeat to install the other cylinder.
14. Install the cylinder heads as described in this
chapter.
PISTONS AND PISTON RINGS
Refer to Figure 111.
Removal
1. Remove the cylinder as described in this chapter.
2. Cover the crankcase with clean shop rags.
3. Lightly mark the pistons with a F (front) or R
(rear) (A, Figure 130).
ENGINE
139
128
132
Pad
Nut
Pipe
Washer
4
Threaded
rod
129
133
WARNING
130
The piston pin retaining rings may
spring out of the piston during re-
moval. Wear safety glasses when re-
moving them in Step 4.
4. Using an awl, pry the piston pin retaining rings
(Figure 131) out of the piston. Place a thumb over
the hole to help prevent the rings from flying out
during removal.
NOTE
Mark the piston pins so they can be
reinstalled into their original pis-
tons.
131
5. Support the piston and push out the piston pin
(B, Figure 130). If the piston pin is difficult to re-
move, use a piston pin removal tool (Figure 132).
6. Remove the piston from the connecting rod.
7. Remove the piston rings using a ring expander
tool (Figure 133) or spread them by hand (Figure
134) and remove them.
8. Inspect the pistons, piston pins and pistons rings
as described in this chapter.
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