Harley Davidson FXD DYNA 2019. Service repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams — page 20
380
CHAPTER NINE
REAR WHEEL
14
Removal
1. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel off
the ground with an appropriate size jack (A, Figure
14).
NOTE
This procedure is shown with the com-
plete exhaust system removed to
better illustrate the steps.
2. Remove the rear cylinder’s muffler as described
in Chapter Seven.
3. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the drive
15
belt guard (A, Figure 15) and remove the guard.
4. On models with a low cut rear fender, it may be
necessary to remove the screws securing the drive
belt lower deflector (B, Figure 15) and remove it.
NOTE
The rear wheel is heavy and can be
difficult to remove. Check the
tire-to-ground clearance before re-
moving the rear axle. If necessary,
have an assistant help in the re-
moval.
5. On international models, remove the cover from
16
the rear axle nut.
6. Remove the spring clip (A, Figure 16) from the
rear axle nut and axle.
7. Loosen and remove the axle nut (B, Figure 16)
and washer.
8. From the right side, withdraw the rear axle (B,
Figure 14) while holding onto the rear wheel.
Lower the rear wheel to the ground.
9. On 2000-on models, remove the rear brake cali-
per (Figure 17) from the swing arm and tie it up to
the frame with a bungee cord or wire.
10. Remove the right side (Figure 18) and left side
17
(Figure 19) spacers from the wheel hub.
11. Lift the drive belt off the driven sprocket (A,
Figure 20) and remove the rear wheel (B).
12. On 1999 models, slide the rear brake caliper off
the locating post on the swing arm and tie it up to the
frame with a bungee cord or wire.
NOTE
Place a plastic or wooden spacer be-
tween the brake pads in place of the
disc. Then, if the brake pedal is inad-
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
381
vertently depressed, the pistons will
18
not be forced out of the caliper. If this
occurs, disassemble the caliper to re-
seat the pistons.
CAUTION
Do not set the wheel down on the
brake disc surface, as it may be dam-
aged.
13. Inspect the rear wheel as described in this chap-
ter.
Installation
19
1. Clean the axle in solvent and dry thoroughly.
Make sure the bearing surfaces on the axle are free
from burrs and nicks.
2. Apply an antiseize lubricant to the axle shaft
prior to installation.
3. On 1999 models, slide the rear brake caliper onto
the locating post on the swing arm.
4. Position the rear wheel between the swing arm
9
sides and place the drive belt on the sprocket.
5. Install the right side (Figure 18) and left side
(Figure 19) spacers into the rear wheel oil seals.
6. Remove the spacer block from between the
20
brake pads.
CAUTION
When installing the rear wheel in the
following steps, carefully insert the
brake disc between the brake pads in
the caliper assembly. Do not force the
brake disc as it can damage the lead-
ing edge of both brake pads.
7. On 2000-on models, move the rear brake caliper
(Figure 17) into position on the swing arm.
8. Lift the rear wheel and install the rear axle from
the right side
(B, Figure
14). Install the axle
21
through the swing arm, the rear brake caliper
mounting bracket and the other side of the swing
arm.
9. After the rear axle is installed, check to make
sure both axle spacers are still in place.
10. Install the washer and axle nut (Figure 21).
Tighten the axle nut to the specification in Table 2.
11. On 1999 models, perform the Front and Rear
Axle End Play Check in this chapter. When the rear
axle end play is correct, continue with Step 12.
382
CHAPTER NINE
22
23
24
FRONT LACED WHEEL (1999)
1. Front axle
2. Right side axle spacer
3. Brake disc
4. Oil seal
5. Bearing
6. Spacer sleeve
7. Wheel rim
8. Hub
9. Shim pack
10. Spacer washer
11. Left side axle spacer
12. Washer
13. Lockwasher
14. Axle nut
15. Bolt
16. Valve stem cap
17. Nut
18. Spoke
19. Balance weight
20. Spoke nipple
12. Check drive belt tension and alignment as de-
18. Remove the stand and lower the rear wheel to
scribed in Chapter Three.
the ground.
13. If necessary, tighten the axle nut to align the
spring pin hole with the nut slot. Then install a
Inspection
spring pin (A, Figure 16) and snap it into place.
14. Install the belt guard (A, Figure 15) and tighten
Replace any worn or damaged parts as described
the bolts and nuts securely.
in this section.
15. If removed install the debris deflector (B, Fig-
1. On 1999 models, inspect the oil seals for exces-
ure 15) and tighten the screws securely.
sive wear, hardness, cracks or other damage. If nec-
16. Install the rear cylinder’s muffler, or exhaust
essary, replace the seals as described under Front
system, as described in Chapter Seven.
and Rear Hubs in this chapter.
17. Rotate the wheel several times to make sure it
2. Turn each bearing inner race by hand. The bear-
rotates freely. Then apply the rear brake pedal sev-
ing must turn smoothly. Some axial play (end play)
eral times to seat the pads against the disc.
is normal, but radial play (side play) must be negli-
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
383
25
FRONT CAST WHEEL (1999)
1. Front axle
2. Right side axle spacer
3. Brake disc
4. Oil seal
5. Bearing
6. Cast wheel
7. Spacer sleeve
8. Shim pack
9. Spacer washer
10. Left side axle spacer
11. Washer
12. Lockwasher
13. Axle nut
14. Bolt
gible. See Figure 11. If one bearing is damaged, re-
Preliminary Inspection
9
place both bearings as a set. Refer to Front and Rear
Hubs in this chapter.
Inspect each wheel bearing prior to removing it
from the wheel hub.
3. Clean the axle and axle spacers in solvent to re-
move all grease and dirt. Make sure the axle contact
CAUTION
surfaces are free of dirt and old grease.
Do not remove the wheel bearing
4. Check the axle runout with a set of V-blocks and
outer races for inspection purposes as
a dial indicator (Figure 12).
they will be damaged during the re-
5. Check the spacers for wear, burrs and damage.
moval process. Remove wheel bear-
Replace as necessary.
ings only if they are to be replaced.
6. Check the brake disc bolts (Figure 22) for tight-
ness. To service the brake disc, refer to Chapter
1. Perform Steps 1-4 of the Disassembly proce-
Twelve.
dure.
2. Turn each bearing by hand. The bearings must
7. Check the final drive sprocket bolts (Figure 23)
turn smoothly with no roughness.
for tightness. Service for the final drive sprocket is
covered in this chapter.
3. Inspect the play of the inner race of each wheel
8. Check wheel runout and spoke tension as de-
bearing. Check for excessive axial play and radial
scribed in this chapter.
play. Replace the bearing if it has an excess amount
of free play.
4. Check the balls for evidence of wear, pitting or
FRONT AND REAR HUBS (1999)
excessive heat (bluish tint). Replace the bearings if
necessary; always replace as a complete set. When
Non-sealed tapered roller bearings are installed
replacing the bearings, make sure the replacement
on each side of the hub. Oil seals are installed on the
bearings match.
outside of each bearing to protect them from dirt
and other contaminants.
The bearing outer races are pressed into the hub.
Disassembly
Do not remove the bearing races unless they require
replacement.
Refer to Figures 24-27.
384
CHAPTER NINE
26
REAR LACED WHEEL (1999)
1. Bolt
2. Cotter pin
3. Axle nut
4. Washer
5. Brake disc
6. Right side axle spacer
7. Oil seal
8. Bearing
9. Bearing outer race
10. Spacer washer
11. Shim pack
12. Spacer sleeve
13. Wheel rim
14. Spacer
15. Driven sprocket
16. Washer
17. Bolt
18. Valve stem cap
19. Nut
20. Balance weight
21. Spoke
22. Spoke nipple
23. Left side axle spacer
24. Rear axle
27
REAR CAST WHEEL (1999)
1. Bolt
2. Cotter pin
3. Axle nut
4. Washer
5. Brake disc
6. Right side axle spacer
7. Oil seal
8. Bearing
9. Bearing outer race
10. Spacer washer
11. Shim pack
12. Spacer sleeve
13. Cast wheel
14. Valve stem cap
15. Nut
16. Valve stem
17. Spacer
18. Driven sprocket
19. Washer
20. Bolt
21. Left side axle spacer
22. Rear axle
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
385
This procedure applies to both the front and rear
28
wheel and hub assemblies. Where differences occur
between the different hubs they are identified.
NOTE
The bearings and races are matched
pairs. Label all parts so that they will
be returned to their original positions.
1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this
chapter.
1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this
chapter.
2. If necessary, remove the brake disc as described
in Chapter Twelve.
29
3. If still in place, remove the axle spacers from the
hub.
4. Pry one of the oil seals out of the hub (Figure 28)
and remove the bearing (Figure 29) and spacer
sleeve (Figure 30). Turn the wheel over and remove
the opposite oil seal and bearing. Remove the
washer and spacer shimpack.
5. Wash the bearings in clean solvent and dry with
9
compressed air. Wipe the bearing races off with a
clean rag dipped in solvent.
6. Check the roller bearings and races (Figure 31)
for wear, pitting or excessive bluish tint. Replace
30
the bearings and races as a complete set on each side
of the wheel. Perform Step 7 to replace the bearing
races. If the bearings and races do not require re-
placement, go to Step 8. If original bearings are to
be reused, pack the bearings with grease and then
wrap in a clean lint-free cloth until assembly. Apply
a film of grease across the bearing race (Figure 31).
NOTE
A wheel bearing race remover and in-
staller tool (JIMS part No. 33461-80)
(Figure 32) is available.
7A. To remove the right and left side wheel bearing
31
outer races (Figure 31) using special tools, perform
the following:
a. Install the special tool into the hub against the
bearing race following the manufacturer’s in-
structions.
b. Tap the bearing race out of one side of the
hub.
c. Reposition the special tool and tap the other
bearing race out of other side of the hub.
d. Remove the special tool.
386
CHAPTER NINE
7B. To remove the right and left side wheel bearing
outer races (Figure 31) without using special tools,
32
perform the following:
a. Insert a drift punch through the hub and drive
the bearing outer race out of the hub. Tap on
alternate sides of the race to drive it squarely
out of the hub. If the race binds in the hub
bore, level it by tapping it from its opposite
side.
b. Repeat substep a for the outer race on the
other side of the hub.
8. Clean the hub with solvent. Dry with com-
pressed air.
Installation
4. Pack each seal lip with grease and install it with a
1. Wipe the outside of the new race and the hub re-
bearing driver or socket with an outer diameter
ceptacle with oil and align it with its bore in the hub.
smaller than the oil seal.
5A. On cast wheels, assemble the front hub in the
NOTE
order shown in Figure 25 or Figure 27, while not-
When installing the race, stop and
ing the following:
check the work often, making sure the
a. Apply grease to both ends of the spacer
race is square with the hub bore. Do
sleeve.
not allow the race to bind during in-
stallation or the bore in the hub will
b. Install the spacer washer with its shoulder
be damaged.
(smaller diameter) facing toward its adjacent
bearing.
2A. To install the right and left side wheel bearing
outer races (Figure 31) using special tools, perform
CAUTION
the following:
If the spacer washer is installed with
its larger diameter side toward the
a. Install the special tool into the bearing outer
bearing, the spacer washer could
race and the hub following the manufac-
contact the bearing cage and damage
turer’s instructions.
it.
b. Tap the bearing race straight into one side of
the hub until it bottoms on the hub shoulder.
c. After installing the bearings, pack the area be-
c. Reposition the special tool and tap the other
tween the bearings and oil seals with grease.
bearing race into the other side of the hub.
d. Install the oil seals until they are flush with
d. Remove the special tool.
the hub or recessed 0.04 in. (1.0 mm) below
2B. To install the right and left side wheel bearing
the hub surface (Figure 10).
outer races (Figure 31) without using special tools,
e. Install the spacer so that its large chamfered
perform the following:
end faces toward the bearing on the valve
a. Select a driver with the outside diameter
stem hole side of the wheel.
slightly smaller than the bearing race’s out-
5B. On laced wheels, assemble the front hub in the
side diameter.
order shown in Figure 24 or Figure 26, while not-
b. Drive the bearing outer race squarely into the
ing the following:
hub bore until it bottoms on the hub shoulder.
a. Apply grease to both ends of the spacer
c. Repeat substep b for the outer race on the
sleeve.
other side of the hub.
b. Install the spacer washer with its shoulder
3. Pack the bearings with grease and install them in
(smaller diameter) facing toward its adjacent
their original position as noted during removal.
bearing.
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
387
The thickness of the spacer shim (Table 3) con-
33
CHECKING FRONT
trols end play between the spacer sleeve and spacer
WHEEL END PLAY
washer.
1. Support the motorcycle on a stand with the front
or rear wheel off the ground.
Front axle
2. On the rear wheel, remove the spring pin from
the rear axle nut.
3. Tighten the front or rear axle to the specification
in Table 2.
4. Mount a dial indicator securely on the brake disc
and center its stem against the end of the axle (Fig-
ure 33). Then zero the dial gauge. Grasp the tire and
move it (with the axle) in and out along the axle cen-
ter line and note the indicator reading. The total in-
Magnetic base
dicator reading is axle end play.
5. If there is not enough end play, install a thinner
spacer shim.
CAUTION
6. If the end play is excessive, install a thicker
If the spacer washer is installed with
spacer shim.
its larger diameter side toward the
7. To replace a spacer shim, disassemble the front
bearing, the spacer washer could
or rear hub as described in this chapter.
contact the bearing cage and damage
9
it.
FRONT AND REAR HUBS (2000-ON)
c.
After installing the bearings, pack the area be-
tween the bearings and oil seals with grease.
Sealed ball bearings are installed on each side of
d.
Install the oil seals until they are flush with
the hub. Do not remove the bearing assemblies un-
the hub or recessed 0.020 in. (0.51 mm) be-
less they require replacement.
low the hub surface (Figure 10).
e.
Install the spacer so that its large chamfered
end faces toward the bearing on the valve
Preliminary Inspection
stem hole side of the wheel.
6.
If removed, install the brake disc as described in
Inspect each wheel bearing prior to removing it
Chapter Twelve.
from the wheel hub.
7. After the wheel is installed and the axle nut tight-
CAUTION
ened, check bearing end play as described in this
Do not remove the wheel bearings for
chapter.
inspection purposes as they will be
damaged during the removal process.
Remove wheel bearings only if they
FRONT AND REAR WHEEL
are to be replaced.
BEARING END PLAY CHECK
(1999 MODELS)
1. Perform Steps 1-3 of Disassembly in the follow-
ing procedure.
Front and rear wheel bearing end play establishes
the amount of axial (lengthwise) movement be-
2. Turn each bearing by hand. The bearings must
tween the left and right bearings. Table 1 lists the
turn smoothly with no roughness.
correct end play specifications. Excessive end play
3. Inspect the play of the inner race of each wheel
can cause bearing side loading. If the end play is too
bearing. Check for excessive axial play and radial
tight, bearing seizure could result. Check end play
play (Figure 11). Replace the bearing if it has an ex-
each time the rear wheel is installed.
cess amount of free play.
388
CHAPTER NINE
34
FRONT LACED WHEEL (2000-ON)
FRONT
1. Front axle
7. Wheel rim
13. Wheel hub
2. Right side axle spacer
8. Spoke nipple
14. Brake disc
3. Bolt
9. Balance weight
15. Left side axle spacer
4. Brake disc
10. Nut
16. Washer
5. Bearing
11. Spoke
17. Axle nut
6. Spacer sleeve
12. Valve stem cap
18. Lockwasher
35
FRONT CAST WHEEL (2000-ON)
FRONT
1. Front axle
8. Valve stem cap
2. Right side axle spacer
9. Valve stem
3. Bolt
10. Wheel
4. Brake disc
11. Left side axle spacer
5. Hub plate
12. Washer
6. Bearing
13. Lockwasher
7. Spacer sleeve
14. Axle nut
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
389
36
REAR LACED WHEEL (2000-ON)
FRONT
9
1. Rear axle
13. Spoke nipple
2. Bolt
14. Bearing
3. Right side axle spacer
15. Driven sprocket
4. Brake disc
16. Washer
5. Bearing
17. Bolt
6. Spacer sleeve
18. Cotter pin
7. Wheel hub
19. Left side axle spacer
8. Wheel rim
20. Washer
9. Spoke
21. Axle nut
10. Valve stem cup
22. Cover (international
11. Nut
models only)
12. Balance weight
Disassembly
3. If necessary, remove the bolts securing the brake
disc and remove the disc.
4. Before proceeding further, inspect the wheel
This procedure applies to both the front and rear
bearings as described in this chapter. If they must be
wheel and hub assemblies. Where differences occur
replaced, proceed as follows.
between the different hubs they are identified. Refer
5A. If the special tools are not used, perform the fol-
to Figures 34-37.
lowing:
1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this
a. To remove the right- and left-hand bearings
chapter.
and spacer collar, insert a soft aluminum or
1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this
brass drift into one side of the hub.
chapter.
b. Push the spacer collar over to one side and
2. If still in place, remove the axle spacers from
place the drift on the inner race of the lower
each side of the hub.
bearing.
390
CHAPTER NINE
37
REAR CAST WHEEL (2000-ON)
FRONT
1. Rear axle
2. Bolt
3. Right side axle spacer
4. Brake disc
5. Bearing
6. Spacer sleeve
7. Valve stem cap
8. Nut
9. Valve stem
10. Wheel
11. Driven sprocket
12. Washer
13. Cotter pin
14. Left side axle spacer
15. Washer
16. Axle nut
17. Cover (international
models only)
c. Tap the bearing out of the hub with a hammer,
working around the perimeter of the inner
38
race (Figure 38). Remove the bearing and
distance collar.
d. Repeat for the bearing on the other side.
Drift
NOTE
Bearing
The Kowa Seiki Wheel Bearing Re-
Hub
mover set can be ordered through a K
Spacer
& L Supply dealer.
Bearing
WARNING
Be sure to wear safety glasses while
using the wheel bearing remover set.
5B. To remove the bearings with the Kowa Seiki
Wheel Bearing Remover set, perform the follow-
ing:
a. Select the correct size remover head tool and
c. Tap on the end of the wedge bar with a ham-
insert it into the bearing.
mer and drive the bearing out of the hub. Re-
b. Turn the wheel over and insert the remover
move the bearing and the distance collar.
shaft into the backside of the adapter. Tap the
d. Repeat for the bearing on the other side.
wedge and force it into the slit in the adapter
(Figure
39). This will force the adapter
6. Clean the inside and the outside of the hub with
against the bearing inner race.
solvent. Dry with compressed air.
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
391
1. Blow any debris out of the hub prior to installing
39
the new bearings.
2. Apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the
bearing seating areas of the hub. This will make
bearing installation easier.
Wedge bar
Remover
head
CAUTION
Install non-sealed bearings with the
single sealed side facing outward. Tap
the bearings squarely into place and
Bearing
Bearing
tap on the outer race only. Do not tap
Hub
on the inner race or the bearing might
be damaged. Be sure that the bearings
are completely seated.
3. Select a driver with an outside diameter slightly
smaller than the bearing’s outside diameter.
4. Tap the right side bearing squarely into place and
tap on the outer race only. Tap the bearing into the
40
hub bore until it bottoms. Be sure that the bearing is
completely seated.
5. Turn the wheel over (right side up) on the work-
bench and install the spacer collar.
9
6. Use the same tool set-up and drive in the left side
bearing.
7. If the brake disc was removed, install it as de-
scribed in Chapter Twelve.
8A. Install the front wheel as described in this chap-
ter.
8B. Install the rear wheel as described in this chap-
ter.
41
DRIVEN SPROCKET ASSEMBLY
Inspection
Inspect the sprocket teeth (Figure 40). If the teeth
are visibly worn, replace the drive belt and both
sprockets.
Removal/Installation
1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chap-
Assembly
ter.
2. Remove the bolts, washers (Figure 41) and nuts
CAUTION
(if so equipped) securing the driven sprocket to the
The removal process will
generally
hub and remove the sprocket.
damage bearings. Never reinstall
3. Position the driven sprocket onto the rear hub.
them after they are removed. Always
install new bearings. Replace the
4. Apply a light coat of ThreeBond TB1360 or an
bearings in pairs.
equivalent to the bolts prior to installation.
392
CHAPTER NINE
5. Install the bolts and washers and nuts (if so
equipped) and tighten to specifications in Table 2.
42
DRIVE SPROCKET
The drive sprocket is covered in Chapter Six un-
der Transmission Drive Sprocket.
DRIVE BELT
CAUTION
When handling a new or used drive
belt, never wrap the belt in a loop that
is smaller than 5 in. (130 mm) or bend
43
it sharply in any direction. This will
weaken or break the belt fibers and
cause premature belt failure.
Removal/Installation
1. Remove the compensating sprocket and clutch
as described in Chapter Five.
2. Remove the primary chain housing as described
in Chapter Five.
WARNING
d.
Withdraw the pivot bolt from the frame and
Make sure the motorcycle is securely
transmission case.
supported before removing the rear
wheel.
e.
Pivot the front of the rear swing arm down
sufficiently to slip the drive belt past the pivot
3. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel off
area of the frame.
the ground.
f.
If the drive belt is going to remain off for a pe-
4. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chap-
riod of time, move the swing arm up into posi-
ter.
tion and reinstall the pivot bolt and nut, or
bolt.
NOTE
If the existing drive belt is going to be
6.
Remove the drive belt (C, Figure 42) from the
reinstalled, it must be installed so it
drive sprocket.
travels in the original direction. Be-
7. Installation is the reverse of these steps while
fore removing the belt, draw an arrow
noting the following:
on the top surface of the belt facing
a. Tighten the swing arm pivot bolt nut or bolt as
forward.
described in Chapter Eleven.
5. Refer to Rear Swing Arm in Chapter Eleven and
b. Adjust the drive belt tension as described in
perform the following:
Chapter Three.
a. Leave both shock absorbers in place on the
frame and rear swing arm.
b. If still in place, remove the screws securing
Inspection
the drive belt lower deflector (A, Figure 42)
and remove it.
Do not apply any type of lubricant to the drive
c. Remove the rear swing arm pivot bolt (B,
belt. Inspect the drive belt and teeth (Figure 43) for
Figure 42) nut (1999) or bolt (2000-on).
severe wear, damage or oil contamination.
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
393
44
DRIVE BELT INSPECTION
45
WHEEL RUNOUT
Pointer
Lateral runout
Radial runout
Stone
Refer to Figure 44 for various types of drive belt
wear or damage. Replace the drive belt if worn or
damaged.
9
WHEEL RUNOUT
1. Remove the front or rear wheel as described in
this chapter.
2. Install the wheel in a wheel truing stand and
check the wheel for excessive wobble or runout.
3. If the wheel is not running true, remove the tire
from the rim as described in this chapter. Then re-
mount the wheel into the truing stand and measure
axial and lateral runout (Figure 45) with a pointer
or dial indicator. Compare actual runout readings
with the service limit specification in Table 1. Note
the following:
a. Cast wheels: If the runout meets or exceeds
the service limit (Table 1), check the wheel
bearings as described under Front and Rear
Hub in this chapter. If the wheel bearings are
acceptable, the cast wheel must be replaced as
1.
Internal tooth cracks
it cannot be serviced. Inspect the wheel for
2.
Missing teeth
cracks, fractures, dents or bends. Replace a
3.
Fuzzy edge core
damaged wheel.
4.
Stone damage
5.
External tooth cracks
WARNING
6.
Chipping
Do not try to repair any damage to a
7.
Hook wear
cast wheel as it will result in an unsafe
riding condition.
394
CHAPTER NINE
b. Laced wheels: If the wheel bearings, spokes,
hub and rim assembly are not damaged, the
46
LATERAL ADJUSTMENT
runout can be corrected by truing the wheel.
Refer to Spoke Adjustment in this chapter. If
Center line
the rim is dented or damaged in any way, the
rim must be replaced and the wheel rebuilt.
Rim
4. While the wheel is off, perform the following:
a. Check the brake disc mounting bolts for tight-
ness as described in Chapter Twelve.
b. On the rear wheel, check the driven sprocket
Tighten
bolts for tightness as described in this chapter.
Loosen
Spoke A
Spoke B
RIM AND LACED WHEEL SERVICE
The laced wheel assembly consists of a rim,
spokes, nipples and hub containing the bearings,
spacer collar and, on 1999 models, oil seals.
Component Condition
To move rim
Riding subjects the wheels to a significant
amount of punishment. It is important that the
wheel is inspected regularly for lateral
3.
Rim condition—Minor rim damage can be cor-
(side-to-side) and radial
(up-and-down) runout,
rected by truing the wheel, however, trying to cor-
even spoke tension and visible rim damage. When a
rect excessive runout caused by impact damage will
wheel has a noticeable wobble, it is out of true. This
cause hub and rim damage due to spoke
is usually cause by loose spokes, but it can be
overtightening. Inspect the rims for cracks, flat
caused by an impact-damaged rim.
spots or dents. Check the spoke holes for cracks or
Truing a wheel corrects the lateral and radial run-
enlargement. Replace rims with excessive damage.
out to bring the wheel back into specification.
The condition of the individual wheel compo-
nents will affect the ability to successfully true the
Wheel Truing Preliminaries
wheel. Note the following:
1. Spoke condition—Do not attempt to true a wheel
Before checking the runout and truing the wheel,
with bent or damaged spokes. Doing so places an
note the following:
excessive amount of tension on the spoke and rim.
1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condi-
The spoke may break and/or pull through the spoke
tion. Refer to Front and Rear Hubs in this chapter.
nipple hole in the rim. Inspect the spokes carefully
2. A small amount of wheel runout is acceptable,
and replace any that are damaged.
do not try to true the wheel to a perfect zero reading.
2. Nipple condition—When truing the wheels the
Doing so will result in excessive spoke tension and
nipples must turn freely on the spoke, however, it is
possible rim and hub damage. Table 1 lists the lat-
quite common for the spoke threads to become cor-
eral (side-to-side) and radial (up-and-down) runout
roded and make it difficult to turn the nipple. Spray
limit specifications.
a penetrating liquid onto the nipple and allow suffi-
cient time for it to penetrate before trying to force
3. The runout can be checked on the motorcycle by
the nipple loose. Work the spoke wrench in both di-
mounting a pointer against the fork or swing arm
rections and continue to apply penetrating liquid. If
and slowly rotating the wheel.
the spoke wrench rounds off the nipple, it will be
4. Perform major wheel truing with the tire re-
necessary to remove the tire from the rim and cut
moved and the wheel mounted in a truing stand
the spoke(s) out of the wheel.
(Figure 45). If a stand is not available, mount the
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
395
NOTE
47
RADIAL ADJUSTMENT
The number of spokes to loosen and
tighten in Steps 2 and 3 will depend on
how far the runout is out of adjust-
Tighten
ment. As a minimum, always loosen
(high point)
two or three spokes, then tighten the
opposite two or three spokes. If the
runout is excessive and affects a
greater area along the rim, a greater
number of spokes will require adjust-
ment.
Hub
2. If the lateral (side-to-side) runout is out of spec-
ification, adjust the wheel by using Figure 46 as an
Centerline
example. To move the rim to the left in Figure 46,
loosen spoke A and tighten spoke B. Always
loosen and tighten the spokes an equal number of
turns.
Loosen
3. If the radial (up and down) runout is out of speci-
(low point)
fication, the hub is not centered in the rim. Draw the
high point of the rim toward the centerline of the
wheel by tightening the spokes in the area of the
high point and loosening the spokes on the side op-
9
posite the high point (Figure 47). Tighten spokes in
equal amounts to prevent distortion.
4. After truing the wheel, seat each spoke in the
hub by tapping it with a flat nose punch and ham-
wheel on the motorcycle with spacers on each side
mer. Then recheck the spoke tension and wheel run-
of the wheel to prevent it from sliding on the axle.
out. Readjust if necessary.
5. Use a spoke nipple wrench of the correct size.
Using the wrong type of tool or one that is the incor-
5. Check the ends of the spokes where they are
rect size will round off the spoke nipples, making
threaded in the nipples. Grind off any ends that pro-
adjustment difficult. Quality spoke wrenches have
trude through the nipples.
openings that grip the nipple on four corners to pre-
vent nipple damage.
6. Refer to the spoke nipple torque specifications in
CAST WHEELS
Table 2 when using a torque wrench.
Cast wheels consist of a single assembly
equipped with bearings, a spacer sleeve and, on
Wheel Truing Procedure
1999 models, oil seals.
1. Position a pointer facing toward the rim (Figure
While these wheels are virtually maintenance
45). Then spin the wheel slowly and check the lat-
free, they must be checked for damage at the main-
eral and radial runout. If the rim is out of adjust-
tenance intervals listed in Chapter Three. Wheel
ment, continue with Step 2.
bearing service is described in this chapter.
To check these wheels, refer to Inspection under
NOTE
If there is a large number of loose
Wheel Runout in this chapter.
spokes, check the hub to make sure it
is centered in the rim. This must be
WARNING
done visually as there are no hub and
Do not try to repair any damage to a
rim centering specifications for these
cast wheel as it will result in an unsafe
models.
riding condition.
396
CHAPTER NINE
WHEEL BALANCE
48
An unbalanced wheel is unsafe. Depending on
the degree of unbalance and the speed of the motor-
cycle, the rider may experience anything from a
mild vibration to a violent shimmy that may result
in loss of control.
On alloy wheels, weights are attached to the flat
surface on the rim (Figure 48). On laced wheels, the
weights are attached to the spoke nipples (Figure
49).
Before attempting to balance the wheel, make
sure the wheel bearings are in good condition and
properly lubricated. The wheel must rotate freely.
49
1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this
chapter.
1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this
chapter.
2. Mount the wheel on a fixture (Figure 50) so it
can rotate freely.
3. Spin the wheel and let it coast to a stop. Mark the
tire at the lowest point.
4. Spin the wheel several more times. If the wheel
keeps coming to rest at the same point, it is out of
balance.
8.
When fitting weights on laced wheels for the fi-
5A. On alloy wheels, tape a test weight to the upper
nal time, crimp the weights onto the spoke with
(or light) side of the wheel (Figure 48).
slip-joint pliers.
5B. On laced wheels, attach a weight to the upper or
light side of the wheel on the spoke (Figure 49).
6. Experiment with different weights until the
TIRES
wheel comes to a stop at a different position each
time it is spun.
Tire Safety
7. On cast wheels, remove the test weight and in-
stall the correct size weight.
After installing new tires on the motorcycle,
a. Attach the weights to the flat surface on the
break them in correctly. Remember that a new tire
rim (Figure 48). Clean the rim of all road res-
has relatively poor adhesion to the road surface until
idue before installing the weights; otherwise,
it is broken in properly. Do not subject a new tire to
the weights may fall off.
any high speed riding for at least the first 60 miles
b. Add weights in 1/4 oz. (7g) increments. If 1
(100 km).
oz. (28 g) or more must be added to one loca-
Even after the tires are broken in properly, always
tion, apply half the amount to each side of the
warm them up prior to the first ride of the day, espe-
rim.
cially in cold weather. This will lessen the possibil-
c. To apply Harley-Davidson wheel weights, re-
ity of loss of control of the motorcycle. If using a
move the paper backing from the weight and
new tire brand other than those originally installed
apply 3 drops of Loctite 420 Superbonder to
by the Harley-Davidson factory, maintain the tire
the bottom of the weight. Position the weight
inflation pressure recommended by that tire manu-
on the rim, press it down, and hold in position
facturer and not those listed in Table 4, located at
for 10 seconds. To allow the adhesive to cure
the end of this chapter. Table 4 is for original equip-
properly, do not use the wheel for 8 hours.
ment tires only.
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
397
NOTE
50
To make tire removal easier, warming
the tire will make it softer and more
pliable. Place the wheel and tire as-
sembly in the sun. If possible, place
the wheel assembly in a completely
closed vehicle. At the same time, place
the new tire in the same location.
1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this
chapter.
1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this
chapter.
2. If not already marked by the tire manufacturer,
51
mark the valve stem location on the tire, so the tire
can be installed in the same location for easier bal-
ancing.
Bead breaker
3. Remove the valve core from the valve stem and
deflate the tire.
NOTE
The removal of tubeless tires from
their rims can be very difficult be-
Rim
9
cause of the exceptionally tight tire
bead-to-rim seal. Breaking the bead
seal may require the use of a special
tool (Figure 51). If unable to break
TUBELESS TIRE CHANGING
the seal loose, take the wheel to a mo-
torcycle dealership or tire repair shop
and have them break it loose on a tire
The cast alloy wheels can easily be damaged dur-
changing machine.
ing tire removal. Special care must be taken with
tire irons when changing a tire to avoid scratches
CAUTION
and gouges to the outer rim surface. Insert scraps of
The inner rim and tire bead area are
leather between the tire iron and the rim to protect
the sealing surfaces on the tubeless
the rim from damage. All original equipment laced
tire. Do not scratch the inside of the
and cast wheels are designed for use with tubeless
rim or damage the tire bead.
tires only.
When removing a tubeless tire, take care not to
4. Press the entire bead on both sides of the tire
damage the tire beads, inner liner of the tire or the
away from the rim and into the center of the rim.
wheel rim flange. Use tire levers, flat handles or tire
5. Lubricate both beads with soapy water.
irons with rounded heads
CAUTION
Use rim protectors (Figure 52) or in-
sert scraps of leather between the tire
Tire Removal
iron and the rim to protect the rim
from damage.
CAUTION
To avoid damage when removing the
NOTE
tire, support the wheel on two wooden
Use only quality tire irons without
blocks, so the brake discs or the
sharp edges. If necessary, file the ends
driven sprocket does not contact the
of the tire irons to remove rough
floor.
edges.
398
CHAPTER NINE
6. Insert a tire iron under the top bead next to the
valve stem (Figure 53). Force the bead on the oppo-
52
site side of the tire into the center of the rim and pry
the bead over the rim with the tire iron.
7. Insert a second tire iron next to the first iron to
hold the bead over the rim. Then work around the
tire with the first tire iron, prying the bead over the
rim (Figure 54).
8. Stand the wheel upright. Insert a tire iron be-
tween the back bead and the side of the rim that the
top bead was pried over (Figure 55). Force the bead
on the opposite side from the tire iron into the center
Tire
of the rim. Pry the back bead off the rim working a
irons
round as with the first.
9. Inspect the valve stem seal. Because rubber dete-
riorates with age, it is advisable to replace the valve
stem when replacing the tire.
10. Remove the old valve stem and discard it. In-
spect the valve stem hole (Figure 56) in the rim. Re-
move any dirt or corrosion from the hole and wipe
Rim protectors
Valve stem
dry with a clean cloth. Install a new valve stem and
make sure it is properly seated in the rim.
11. Carefully inspect the tire and wheel rim for any
damage as described in the following.
Tire and Wheel Rim Inspection
53
1. Wipe off the inner surfaces of the wheel rim.
Clean off any rubber residue or any oxidation.
WARNING
Carefully consider whether a tire
should be replaced. If there is any doubt
about the quality of the existing tire, re-
place it with a new one. Do not take a
chance on a tire failure at any speed.
2. If any one of the following are observed; replace
it with a new one:
a. A puncture or split whose total length or di-
ameter exceeds 0.24 in. (6 mm).
54
b. A scratch or split on the side wall.
c. Any type of ply separation.
d. Tread separation or excessive abnormal wear
pattern.
e. Tread depth of less than 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) on
original equipment tires. Tread depth mini-
mum may vary on aftermarket tires.
f. Scratches on either sealing bead.
g. The cord is cut in any place.
h. Flat spots in the tread from skidding.
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
399
55
59
56
60
9
i. Any abnormality in the inner liner.
57
Tire Installation
1. Inspect the valve stem core rubber seal for hard-
ness or deterioration. Replace if necessary.
2. A new tire may have balancing rubbers inside.
These are not patches. Do not remove them.
3. Lubricate both beads of the tire with soapy water.
4. When installing the tire on the rim, make sure
the correct tire (either front or rear) is installed on
the correct wheel and also that the direction arrow
faces the direction of wheel rotation (Figure 57).
58
5. If remounting the old tire, align the mark made
in Step 2, Removal, with the valve stem (Figure 58).
If a new tire is being installed, align the colored spot
near the bead (indicating the lightest point of the
tire) with the valve stem.
6. Align the tire with the rim, then place the back-
side of the tire into the center of the rim. The lower
bead should go into the center of the rim and the up-
per bead inside. Work around the tire in both direc-
tions (Figure 59), using a tire iron for the last few
inches of bead (Figure 60).
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