394
CHAPTER NINE
b. Laced wheels: If the wheel bearings, spokes,
hub and rim assembly are not damaged, the
46
LATERAL ADJUSTMENT
runout can be corrected by truing the wheel.
Refer to Spoke Adjustment in this chapter. If
Center line
the rim is dented or damaged in any way, the
rim must be replaced and the wheel rebuilt.
Rim
4. While the wheel is off, perform the following:
a. Check the brake disc mounting bolts for tight-
ness as described in Chapter Twelve.
b. On the rear wheel, check the driven sprocket
Tighten
bolts for tightness as described in this chapter.
Loosen
Spoke A
Spoke B
RIM AND LACED WHEEL SERVICE
The laced wheel assembly consists of a rim,
spokes, nipples and hub containing the bearings,
spacer collar and, on 1999 models, oil seals.
Component Condition
To move rim
Riding subjects the wheels to a significant
amount of punishment. It is important that the
wheel is inspected regularly for lateral
3.
Rim condition—Minor rim damage can be cor-
(side-to-side) and radial
(up-and-down) runout,
rected by truing the wheel, however, trying to cor-
even spoke tension and visible rim damage. When a
rect excessive runout caused by impact damage will
wheel has a noticeable wobble, it is out of true. This
cause hub and rim damage due to spoke
is usually cause by loose spokes, but it can be
overtightening. Inspect the rims for cracks, flat
caused by an impact-damaged rim.
spots or dents. Check the spoke holes for cracks or
Truing a wheel corrects the lateral and radial run-
enlargement. Replace rims with excessive damage.
out to bring the wheel back into specification.
The condition of the individual wheel compo-
nents will affect the ability to successfully true the
Wheel Truing Preliminaries
wheel. Note the following:
1. Spoke condition—Do not attempt to true a wheel
Before checking the runout and truing the wheel,
with bent or damaged spokes. Doing so places an
note the following:
excessive amount of tension on the spoke and rim.
1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condi-
The spoke may break and/or pull through the spoke
tion. Refer to Front and Rear Hubs in this chapter.
nipple hole in the rim. Inspect the spokes carefully
2. A small amount of wheel runout is acceptable,
and replace any that are damaged.
do not try to true the wheel to a perfect zero reading.
2. Nipple condition—When truing the wheels the
Doing so will result in excessive spoke tension and
nipples must turn freely on the spoke, however, it is
possible rim and hub damage. Table 1 lists the lat-
quite common for the spoke threads to become cor-
eral (side-to-side) and radial (up-and-down) runout
roded and make it difficult to turn the nipple. Spray
limit specifications.
a penetrating liquid onto the nipple and allow suffi-
cient time for it to penetrate before trying to force
3. The runout can be checked on the motorcycle by
the nipple loose. Work the spoke wrench in both di-
mounting a pointer against the fork or swing arm
rections and continue to apply penetrating liquid. If
and slowly rotating the wheel.
the spoke wrench rounds off the nipple, it will be
4. Perform major wheel truing with the tire re-
necessary to remove the tire from the rim and cut
moved and the wheel mounted in a truing stand
the spoke(s) out of the wheel.
(Figure 45). If a stand is not available, mount the
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
395
NOTE
47
RADIAL ADJUSTMENT
The number of spokes to loosen and
tighten in Steps 2 and 3 will depend on
how far the runout is out of adjust-
Tighten
ment. As a minimum, always loosen
(high point)
two or three spokes, then tighten the
opposite two or three spokes. If the
runout is excessive and affects a
greater area along the rim, a greater
number of spokes will require adjust-
ment.
Hub
2. If the lateral (side-to-side) runout is out of spec-
ification, adjust the wheel by using Figure 46 as an
Centerline
example. To move the rim to the left in Figure 46,
loosen spoke A and tighten spoke B. Always
loosen and tighten the spokes an equal number of
turns.
Loosen
3. If the radial (up and down) runout is out of speci-
(low point)
fication, the hub is not centered in the rim. Draw the
high point of the rim toward the centerline of the
wheel by tightening the spokes in the area of the
high point and loosening the spokes on the side op-
9
posite the high point (Figure 47). Tighten spokes in
equal amounts to prevent distortion.
4. After truing the wheel, seat each spoke in the
hub by tapping it with a flat nose punch and ham-
wheel on the motorcycle with spacers on each side
mer. Then recheck the spoke tension and wheel run-
of the wheel to prevent it from sliding on the axle.
out. Readjust if necessary.
5. Use a spoke nipple wrench of the correct size.
Using the wrong type of tool or one that is the incor-
5. Check the ends of the spokes where they are
rect size will round off the spoke nipples, making
threaded in the nipples. Grind off any ends that pro-
adjustment difficult. Quality spoke wrenches have
trude through the nipples.
openings that grip the nipple on four corners to pre-
vent nipple damage.
6. Refer to the spoke nipple torque specifications in
CAST WHEELS
Table 2 when using a torque wrench.
Cast wheels consist of a single assembly
equipped with bearings, a spacer sleeve and, on
Wheel Truing Procedure
1999 models, oil seals.
1. Position a pointer facing toward the rim (Figure
While these wheels are virtually maintenance
45). Then spin the wheel slowly and check the lat-
free, they must be checked for damage at the main-
eral and radial runout. If the rim is out of adjust-
tenance intervals listed in Chapter Three. Wheel
ment, continue with Step 2.
bearing service is described in this chapter.
To check these wheels, refer to Inspection under
NOTE
If there is a large number of loose
Wheel Runout in this chapter.
spokes, check the hub to make sure it
is centered in the rim. This must be
WARNING
done visually as there are no hub and
Do not try to repair any damage to a
rim centering specifications for these
cast wheel as it will result in an unsafe
models.
riding condition.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
396
CHAPTER NINE
WHEEL BALANCE
48
An unbalanced wheel is unsafe. Depending on
the degree of unbalance and the speed of the motor-
cycle, the rider may experience anything from a
mild vibration to a violent shimmy that may result
in loss of control.
On alloy wheels, weights are attached to the flat
surface on the rim (Figure 48). On laced wheels, the
weights are attached to the spoke nipples (Figure
49).
Before attempting to balance the wheel, make
sure the wheel bearings are in good condition and
properly lubricated. The wheel must rotate freely.
49
1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this
chapter.
1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this
chapter.
2. Mount the wheel on a fixture (Figure 50) so it
can rotate freely.
3. Spin the wheel and let it coast to a stop. Mark the
tire at the lowest point.
4. Spin the wheel several more times. If the wheel
keeps coming to rest at the same point, it is out of
balance.
8.
When fitting weights on laced wheels for the fi-
5A. On alloy wheels, tape a test weight to the upper
nal time, crimp the weights onto the spoke with
(or light) side of the wheel (Figure 48).
slip-joint pliers.
5B. On laced wheels, attach a weight to the upper or
light side of the wheel on the spoke (Figure 49).
6. Experiment with different weights until the
TIRES
wheel comes to a stop at a different position each
time it is spun.
Tire Safety
7. On cast wheels, remove the test weight and in-
stall the correct size weight.
After installing new tires on the motorcycle,
a. Attach the weights to the flat surface on the
break them in correctly. Remember that a new tire
rim (Figure 48). Clean the rim of all road res-
has relatively poor adhesion to the road surface until
idue before installing the weights; otherwise,
it is broken in properly. Do not subject a new tire to
the weights may fall off.
any high speed riding for at least the first 60 miles
b. Add weights in 1/4 oz. (7g) increments. If 1
(100 km).
oz. (28 g) or more must be added to one loca-
Even after the tires are broken in properly, always
tion, apply half the amount to each side of the
warm them up prior to the first ride of the day, espe-
rim.
cially in cold weather. This will lessen the possibil-
c. To apply Harley-Davidson wheel weights, re-
ity of loss of control of the motorcycle. If using a
move the paper backing from the weight and
new tire brand other than those originally installed
apply 3 drops of Loctite 420 Superbonder to
by the Harley-Davidson factory, maintain the tire
the bottom of the weight. Position the weight
inflation pressure recommended by that tire manu-
on the rim, press it down, and hold in position
facturer and not those listed in Table 4, located at
for 10 seconds. To allow the adhesive to cure
the end of this chapter. Table 4 is for original equip-
properly, do not use the wheel for 8 hours.
ment tires only.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
397
NOTE
50
To make tire removal easier, warming
the tire will make it softer and more
pliable. Place the wheel and tire as-
sembly in the sun. If possible, place
the wheel assembly in a completely
closed vehicle. At the same time, place
the new tire in the same location.
1A. Remove the front wheel as described in this
chapter.
1B. Remove the rear wheel as described in this
chapter.
2. If not already marked by the tire manufacturer,
51
mark the valve stem location on the tire, so the tire
can be installed in the same location for easier bal-
ancing.
Bead breaker
3. Remove the valve core from the valve stem and
deflate the tire.
NOTE
The removal of tubeless tires from
their rims can be very difficult be-
Rim
9
cause of the exceptionally tight tire
bead-to-rim seal. Breaking the bead
seal may require the use of a special
tool (Figure 51). If unable to break
TUBELESS TIRE CHANGING
the seal loose, take the wheel to a mo-
torcycle dealership or tire repair shop
and have them break it loose on a tire
The cast alloy wheels can easily be damaged dur-
changing machine.
ing tire removal. Special care must be taken with
tire irons when changing a tire to avoid scratches
CAUTION
and gouges to the outer rim surface. Insert scraps of
The inner rim and tire bead area are
leather between the tire iron and the rim to protect
the sealing surfaces on the tubeless
the rim from damage. All original equipment laced
tire. Do not scratch the inside of the
and cast wheels are designed for use with tubeless
rim or damage the tire bead.
tires only.
When removing a tubeless tire, take care not to
4. Press the entire bead on both sides of the tire
damage the tire beads, inner liner of the tire or the
away from the rim and into the center of the rim.
wheel rim flange. Use tire levers, flat handles or tire
5. Lubricate both beads with soapy water.
irons with rounded heads
CAUTION
Use rim protectors (Figure 52) or in-
sert scraps of leather between the tire
Tire Removal
iron and the rim to protect the rim
from damage.
CAUTION
To avoid damage when removing the
NOTE
tire, support the wheel on two wooden
Use only quality tire irons without
blocks, so the brake discs or the
sharp edges. If necessary, file the ends
driven sprocket does not contact the
of the tire irons to remove rough
floor.
edges.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
398
CHAPTER NINE
6. Insert a tire iron under the top bead next to the
valve stem (Figure 53). Force the bead on the oppo-
52
site side of the tire into the center of the rim and pry
the bead over the rim with the tire iron.
7. Insert a second tire iron next to the first iron to
hold the bead over the rim. Then work around the
tire with the first tire iron, prying the bead over the
rim (Figure 54).
8. Stand the wheel upright. Insert a tire iron be-
tween the back bead and the side of the rim that the
top bead was pried over (Figure 55). Force the bead
on the opposite side from the tire iron into the center
Tire
of the rim. Pry the back bead off the rim working a
irons
round as with the first.
9. Inspect the valve stem seal. Because rubber dete-
riorates with age, it is advisable to replace the valve
stem when replacing the tire.
10. Remove the old valve stem and discard it. In-
spect the valve stem hole (Figure 56) in the rim. Re-
move any dirt or corrosion from the hole and wipe
Rim protectors
Valve stem
dry with a clean cloth. Install a new valve stem and
make sure it is properly seated in the rim.
11. Carefully inspect the tire and wheel rim for any
damage as described in the following.
Tire and Wheel Rim Inspection
53
1. Wipe off the inner surfaces of the wheel rim.
Clean off any rubber residue or any oxidation.
WARNING
Carefully consider whether a tire
should be replaced. If there is any doubt
about the quality of the existing tire, re-
place it with a new one. Do not take a
chance on a tire failure at any speed.
2. If any one of the following are observed; replace
it with a new one:
a. A puncture or split whose total length or di-
ameter exceeds 0.24 in. (6 mm).
54
b. A scratch or split on the side wall.
c. Any type of ply separation.
d. Tread separation or excessive abnormal wear
pattern.
e. Tread depth of less than 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) on
original equipment tires. Tread depth mini-
mum may vary on aftermarket tires.
f. Scratches on either sealing bead.
g. The cord is cut in any place.
h. Flat spots in the tread from skidding.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES
399
55
59
56
60
9
i. Any abnormality in the inner liner.
57
Tire Installation
1. Inspect the valve stem core rubber seal for hard-
ness or deterioration. Replace if necessary.
2. A new tire may have balancing rubbers inside.
These are not patches. Do not remove them.
3. Lubricate both beads of the tire with soapy water.
4. When installing the tire on the rim, make sure
the correct tire (either front or rear) is installed on
the correct wheel and also that the direction arrow
faces the direction of wheel rotation (Figure 57).
58
5. If remounting the old tire, align the mark made
in Step 2, Removal, with the valve stem (Figure 58).
If a new tire is being installed, align the colored spot
near the bead (indicating the lightest point of the
tire) with the valve stem.
6. Align the tire with the rim, then place the back-
side of the tire into the center of the rim. The lower
bead should go into the center of the rim and the up-
per bead inside. Work around the tire in both direc-
tions (Figure 59), using a tire iron for the last few
inches of bead (Figure 60).
Нет комментариевНе стесняйтесь поделиться с нами вашим ценным мнением.
Текст