Harley Davidson Softail 2000-2005. Service manual — page 9

wire and two Deutsch sockets (H-D part No. 72191-94),
shown in Figure 37, are required.

To retrieve the diagnostic code(s), perform the follow-

ing:
1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Fourteen.
2. Lift the data link connector up and off the mounting
bracket.
3. Remove the protective cover from the data link con-
nector.
4. Install the jumper wire onto pins No. 1 (light
green/red) and No. 2 (black) on the data link connector.
5. Turn the ignition/light key switch to the IGNITION
position. After approximately eight seconds, the different
systems enter the diagnostic codes:

a. The check engine light begins with a ready signal,

which is a series of six rapid flashes, approximately
three per second. The ready signal indicates the
check engine light is ready to flash a diagnostic
code.

b. The ready signal is followed by a two-second pause.
c. Then the system flashes the first digit of the stored

diagnostic code. The check engine light will illumi-
nate for one second then turn off for one second. Re-
cord the number of flashes. For example, two
flashes indicate the first digit is two.

d. The system pauses for two seconds then flashes the

second digit of the diagnostic code. record the num-
ber of flashes. For example, five flashes indicate the
second digit is five. In this example, the first code is
25, or a problem with the rear cylinder ignition coil.

e. If more than one code is present, the system will

pause for two seconds then flash the ready signal,
which is a series of six rapid flashes.

f. The system pauses for two seconds, then flashes the

first digit of the next diagnostic code, followed by
the second digit.

6. The system displays the stored codes sequentially until
each diagnostic code has been displayed. Then the system
repeats the codes. The check-engine light repeats the
stored codes until the jumper wire is disconnected. When
the codes repeat, all stored codes have been displayed.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove
the jumper wire from the data link connector.

7. Refer to diagnostic codes in Table 3 to locate the prob-
lem.

8. Install the protective cover onto the data link connector
and fit the data link connector onto the mounting bracket.

9. Install the seat as described in Chapter Fourteen.

Fuel Injected Models

Diagnostic codes retrieval

NOTE

Diagnostic codes can only be cleared by a
Harley-Davidson dealership.

1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Fourteen.

2. Lift the data link connector (A, Figure 38) up and off
the mounting bracket.

3. Remove the protective cover (B, Figure 38) from the
data link connector.

TROUBLESHOOTING

53

2

37

2 in.

38

4. Install the jumper wire onto pins No. 1 (light
green/red) and No. 2 (black) on the data link connector
(Figure 39).
5. Turn the ignition/light key switch to the ON position.
After approximately nine seconds (four seconds lamp is
on, then five seconds lamp is off), the different systems
enter the diagnostic codes:

a. Then the system flashes the first digit of the stored

diagnostic code. The check engine light will illumi-
nate for about 1/2 second then turn off for one sec-
ond. Record the number of flashes. For example,
two flashes indicate the first digit is two.

b. The system pauses for approximately one second

then flashes the second digit of the diagnostic code.
Record the number of flashes. For example, five
flashes indicate the second digit is five. In this ex-
ample, the first code is 25, or a problem with the
rear cylinder ignition coil.

c. If more than one code is present, the system will

pause for three seconds in which the lamp is off.

d. The system then flashes the first digit of the next di-

agnostic code, followed by the second digit.

6. The system displays the stored codes sequentially until
each diagnostic code has been displayed. Then the system
repeats the codes until the ignition/light key switch is
turned to the off position.
7. Refer to diagnostic codes in Table 3 to locate the prob-
lem.
8. Install the protective cover onto the data link connector
(B, Figure 38) and fit the data link connector onto the
mounting bracket.
9. Install the seat as described in Chapter Fourteen.

FUEL SYSTEM (CARBURETED MODELS)

Begin fuel system troubleshooting with the fuel tank

and work through the system, reserving the carburetor as
the final point. Most fuel system problems result from an
empty fuel tank, a plugged fuel filter or fuel valve, sour
fuel, a dirty air filter or clogged carburetor jets. Do not as-
sume the carburetor is the problem. Unnecessary carbure-
tor adjustment can compound the problem.

Identifying Carburetor Conditions

Refer to the following conditions to identify whether

the engine is running lean or rich.

Rich

1. Fouled spark plugs.

2. Engine misfires and runs rough under load.

3. Excessive exhaust smoke as the throttle is increased.

4. An extreme rich condition causes a choked or dull
sound from the exhaust and an inability to clear the ex-
haust with the throttle held wide open.

Lean

1. Blistered or very white spark plug electrodes.

54

CHAPTER TWO

39

40

FUEL LEVEL SYSTEM

Float
bowl
vent

Fuel inlet
(from side)

Inlet
valve

Overflow
line

Float

2. Engine overheats.
3. Slow acceleration and engine power is reduced.
4. Flat spots on acceleration that are similar in feel to
when the engine starts to run out of gas.
5. Engine speed fluctuates at full throttle.

Troubleshooting

Isolate fuel system problems to the fuel tank, fuel shut-

off valve and filter, fuel hoses, external fuel filter (if used)
or carburetor. In the following procedures, it is assumed
that the ignition system is working properly and is cor-
rectly adjusted.

Fuel level system

The fuel level system is shown in Figure 40. Proper

carburetor operation depends on a constant and correct
carburetor fuel level. As fuel is drawn from the float bowl
during engine operation, the float level in the bowl drops.
As the float drops, the fuel valve moves from its seat and
allows fuel to flow through the seat into the float bowl.
Fuel entering the float bowl causes the float to rise and

push against the fuel valve. When the fuel level reaches a
predetermined level, the fuel valve is pushed against the
seat to prevent the float bowl from overfilling.

If the fuel valve fails to close, the engine will run too

rich or flood with fuel. Symptoms of this problem are
rough running, excessive black smoke and poor accelera-
tion. This condition will sometimes clear up when the en-
gine is run at wide-open throttle and the fuel is being
drawn into the engine before the float bowl can overfill.
However, as the engine speed is reduced, the rich running
condition returns.

Several things can cause fuel overflow. In most in-

stances, a small piece of dirt is trapped between the fuel
valve and seat, or the float level is incorrect. If fuel is
flowing out of the overflow tube connected to the bottom
of the float bowl, the fuel valve inside the carburetor is be-
ing held open. First check the position of the fuel shutoff
valve lever. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever OFF. Then
lightly tap on the carburetor float bowl and turn the fuel
shutoff valve lever ON. If the fuel flow stops running out
of the overflow tube, whatever was holding the fuel valve
off of its seat has been dislodged. If fuel continues to flow
from the overflow tube, remove and service the carbure-
tor. See Chapter Seven.

NOTE

Fuel will not flow from the vacuum-oper-
ated fuel shutoff valve until the engine is
running.

Starting enrichment (choke) system

A cold engine requires a rich mixture to start and run

properly. On all models, a cable-actuated starter enrich-
ment valve is used for cold starting.

If the engine is difficult to start when cold, check the

starting enrichment (choke) cable adjustment described in
Chapter Three.

Accelerator pump system

During sudden acceleration, the diaphragm type accel-

erator pump system (Figure 41) provides additional fuel
to the engine. Without this system, the carburetor would
not be able to provide a sufficient amount of fuel.

The system consists of a spring loaded neoprene dia-

phragm that is compressed by the pump lever during sud-
den acceleration. This causes the diaphragm to force fuel
from the pump chamber, through a check valve and into
the carburetor venturi. The diaphragm spring returns the
diaphragm to the uncompressed position, which allows
the chamber to refill with fuel.

TROUBLESHOOTING

55

2

41

ACCELERATOR

PUMP SYSTEM

Venturi

Pump
nozzle

Pump
lever

Spring

Throttle
shaft

Throttle rod

Pump
rod

Spring

Diaphram

Check
valve

If the engine hesitates during sudden acceleration,

check the operation of the accelerator pump system. Car-
buretor service is covered in Chapter Seven.

Vacuum-operated fuel shutoff valve testing

All models are equipped with a vacuum-operated fuel

shutoff valve. A vacuum hose is connected between the
fuel shutoff valve diaphragm and the carburetor. When the
engine is running, vacuum is applied to the fuel shutoff
valve through this hose. For fuel to flow through the fuel
valve, a vacuum must be present with the fuel shutoff
valve handle in the ON or RES position. The following
steps troubleshoot the fuel shutoff valve by applying a
vacuum from a separate source. A Miti-Vac hand-oper-
ated vacuum pump (Figure 42), gas can, drain hose that is
long enough to reach from the fuel valve to the gas can,
and hose clamp are required for this test.

WARNING

Gasoline is highly flammable. When servic-
ing the fuel system in the following sections,
work in a well-ventilated area. Do not ex-
pose gasoline and gasoline vapors to sparks
or other ignition sources.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as described in
Chapter Eight.
2. Visually check the amount of fuel in the tank. Add fuel
if necessary.
3. Turn the fuel shutoff valve (A, Figure 43) to the OFF
position and disconnect the fuel hose (B) from the fuel
shutoff valve. Plug the open end of the hose.
4. Connect the drain hose to the fuel shutoff valve and se-
cure it with a hose clamp. Insert the end of the drain hose
into a gas can.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel shutoff
valve.
6. Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to the fuel
shutoff valve vacuum hose nozzle.
7. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever to the ON position.

CAUTION

In Step 8, do not apply more than 25 in. (635
mm) Hg vacuum or the fuel shutoff valve di-
aphragm will be damaged.

8. Apply 25 in. (635 mm) Hg of vacuum to the valve.
Fuel should flow through the fuel shutoff valve when the
vacuum is applied.
9. With the vacuum still applied, turn the fuel shutoff
valve lever to the RES position. Fuel should continue to
flow through the valve.

10. Release the vacuum and make sure the fuel flow
stops.
11. Repeat Steps 8-10 five times. Fuel should flow with
vacuum applied and stop flowing when the vacuum is re-
leased.
12. Turn the fuel shutoff valve OFF. Disconnect the vac-
uum pump and drain hoses.
13. Reconnect the fuel hose (B, Figure 43) to the fuel
shutoff valve.
14. If the fuel valve failed this test, replace the fuel shut-
off valve as described in Chapter Seven.

FUEL SYSTEM (FUEL-INJECTION MODELS)

The fuel injection system is controlled by the engine

management system and by the ignition control module.
Troubleshooting this system, due to the specialized equip-
ment required, must be performed by a Harley-Davidson
dealership.

However, most fuel system problems result from an

empty tank, a plugged filter, fuel pump failure, contami-
nated fuel or a restricted air filter element. Begin any fuel
system troubleshooting with these items first. Refer to the

Engine Starting

and

Engine Performance

procedures in

this chapter.

56

CHAPTER TWO

42

43

ENGINE NOISES

1. Knocking or pinging during acceleration can be
caused by using a lower octane fuel than recommended or
a poor grade of fuel. Incorrect carburetor jetting
(carbureted models) and an incorrect spark plug heat
range (too hot) can cause pinging. Refer to

Spark Plug

Heat Range

in Chapter Three. Check also for excessive

carbon buildup in the combustion chamber or a defective
ignition module.
2. Slapping or rattling noise at low speed or during accel-
eration can be caused by excessive piston-to-cylinder wall
clearance. Also check also for a bent connecting rod(s) or
worn piston pin and/or piston pin hole in the piston(s).
3. Knocking or rapping during deceleration is usually
caused by excessive rod bearing clearance.
4. Persistent knocking and vibration or other noises are
usually caused by worn main bearings. If the main bear-
ings are in good condition, consider the following:

a. Loose engine mounts.
b. Cracked frame.
c. Leaking cylinder head gasket(s).
d. Exhaust pipe leakage at cylinder head(s).
e. Stuck piston ring(s).
f. Broken piston ring(s).
g. Partial engine seizure.
h. Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance.
i. Excessive connecting rod side clearance.
j. Excessive crankshaft runout.

5. Rapid on-off squeal indicates a compression leak
around the cylinder head gasket or spark plug.
6. For valve train noise, check for the following:

a. Bent pushrod(s).
b. Defective lifter(s).
c. Valve sticking in guide.
d. Worn cam gears and/or cam.
e. Damaged rocker arm or shaft. Rocker arm may be

binding on shaft.

ENGINE LUBRICATION

An improperly operating engine lubrication system will

quickly lead to serious engine damage. Check the engine
oil level as described in Chapter Three weekly. Oil pump
service is covered in Chapter Four.

Low Oil Warning Light

The low oil warning light, mounted on the indicator

light panel, should come on when the ignition switch is
turned on before the engine is started. After the engine is
started, the oil light should turn off when the engine speed
is above idle.

If the low oil warning light does not come on when the

ignition switch is turned to on and the engine is not run-
ning, check for a defective light bulb as described in
Chapter Eight. If the bulb is working, check the oil pres-
sure switch (Figure 44) as described in Chapter Eight.

If the oil light remains on when the engine speed is

above idle, turn the engine off and check the oil level in
the oil tank. If the oil level is correct, oil may not be re-
turning to the oil tank from the return line. Check for a
clogged or damaged return line or a damaged oil pump. If
the motorcycle is being operated in conditions where the
ambient temperature is below freezing, ice and sludge
may be blocking the oil feed pipe.

Oil Consumption High or Engine Smokes Excessively

1. Worn valve guides.
2. Worn valve guide seals.
3. Worn or damaged piston rings.
4. Oil tank overfilled.
5. Oil filter restricted.
6. Leaking cylinder head surfaces.

Oil Fails to Return to Oil Tank

1. Oil lines or fittings restricted or damaged.
2. Oil pump damaged or operating incorrectly.
3. Oil tank empty.
4. Oil filter restricted.
5. Damaged oil feed pump.

Engine Oil Leaks

1. Clogged air filter breather hose.
2. Restricted or damaged oil return line (A, Figure 45)
and/or vent line (B) to oil tank.
3. Loose engine parts.

TROUBLESHOOTING

57

2

44

4. Damaged gasket sealing surfaces.
5. Oil tank overfilled.
6. Restricted oil filter.
7. Plugged air filter-to-breather system hose.

CLUTCH

Clutch diagnosis, except adjustment, requires partial

clutch disassembly to identify and correct the problem.
Refer to Chapter Five for clutch service procedures.

Clutch Chatter or Noise

Clutch chatter or noise is usually caused by worn or

warped clutch plates.

Clutch Slippage

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.
2. Worn friction plates.
3. Weak or damaged diaphragm spring.
4. Damaged pressure plate.

Clutch Dragging

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.
2. Warped clutch plates.
3. Worn or damaged clutch shell or clutch hub.
4. Worn or incorrectly assembled clutch ball and ramp
mechanism.
5. Incorrect primary chain alignment.
6. Weak or damaged diaphragm spring.

TRANSMISSION

Transmission symptoms are sometimes hard to distin-

guish from clutch symptoms. Refer to Chapter Six for
transmission service procedures.

Gears Will Not Stay Engaged

1. Worn or damaged shifter parts.
2. Incorrect shifter rod adjustment.
3. Incorrect shifter drum adjustment.
4. Severely worn or damaged gears and/or shift forks.

Difficult Shifting

1. Worn or damaged shift forks.
2. Worn or damaged shifter clutch dogs.

3. Weak or damaged shifter return spring.
4. Clutch drag.

Excessive Gear Noise

1. Worn or damaged bearings.
2. Worn or damaged gears.
3. Excessive gear backlash.

LIGHTING SYSTEM

If bulbs burn out frequently, check for excessive vibra-

tion, loose connections that permit sudden current surges,
or the installation of the wrong type of bulb.

Most light and ignition problems are caused by loose or

corroded ground connections. Check these prior to replac-
ing a bulb or electrical component.

EXCESSIVE VIBRATION

Excessive vibration is usually caused by loose engine

mounting hardware. A bent wheel axle shaft(s) or loose
suspension component causes high-speed vibration prob-
lems. Vibration can also be caused by the following con-
ditions:
1. Balancer system out of alignment or component dam-
aged.
2. Cracked or broken frame.
3. Severely worn primary chain.
4. Tight primary chain links.
5. Loose, worn or damaged engine stabilizer link.
6. Improperly balanced wheel(s).
7. Defective or damaged wheel(s).
8. Defective or damaged tire(s).
9. Internal engine wear or damage.
10. Loose or worn steering head bearings.
11. Loose swing arm pivot shaft nut.

58

CHAPTER TWO

45

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING

Poor handling may be caused by improper tire inflation

pressure, a damaged or bent frame or front steering com-
ponents, worn wheel bearings, or dragging brakes. Possi-
ble causes for suspension and steering malfunctions are
listed below.

Irregular or Wobbly Steering

1. Loose wheel axle nut(s).
2. Loose or worn steering head bearings.
3. Excessive wheel bearing play.
4. Damaged cast wheel.
5. Laced wheel out of alignment.
6. Unbalanced wheel assembly.
7. Incorrect wheel alignment.
8. Bent or damaged steering stem or frame at steering
neck.
9. Tire incorrectly seated on rim.
10. Excessive front end load from nonstandard equip-
ment.

Stiff Steering

1. Low front tire air pressure.
2. Bent or damaged steering stem or frame.
3. Loose or worn steering head bearings.

Stiff or Heavy Fork Operation
(Non-Springer Front Fork)

1. Incorrect fork springs.
2. Incorrect fork oil viscosity.
3. Excessive amount of fork oil.
4. Bent fork tubes.

Poor Fork Operation
(Non-Springer Front Fork)

1. Worn or bent fork tubes.
2. Leaking fork seals.
3. Contaminated fork oil.
4. Incorrect fork springs.
5. Excessive front end load from nonstandard equipment.

Poor Fork Operation
(Springer Front Fork)

1. Worn or bent rigid or spring fork legs.
2. Leaking or damaged shock absorber.

3. Incorrect tightened rebound springs.

4. Fork rocker spherical bearings out of adjustment or
lack of lubrication.

5. Excessive front end load from nonstandard equipment.

Poor Rear Shock Absorber Operation

1. Damper unit leaking.

2. Rear shocks adjusted incorrectly.

3. Loose mounting hardware.

4. Excessive rear end load from nonstandard equipment.

5. Incorrect loading.

BRAKE PROBLEMS

All models are equipped with front and rear disc brakes.

Good brakes are vital to the safe operation of any motor-
cycle. Perform the maintenance procedures in Chapter
Three to minimize brake system problems. Brake system
service is covered in Chapter Thirteen. To refill the front
and rear master cylinders, only use DOT 5 silicone-based
brake fluid.

Insufficient Braking Power

Worn brake pads or discs, air in the hydraulic system,

glazed or contaminated pads, low brake fluid level, or a
leaking brake line or hose can cause this problem. Vi-
sually check for leaks. Check for worn brake pads. Also
check for a leaking or damaged primary cup seal in the
master cylinder. Bleed and adjust the brakes. Rebuild a
leaking master cylinder or brake caliper. Brake drag
causes excessive heat and brake fade. See

Brake Drag

in

this section.

Spongy Brake Feel

Spongy brake feel is generally caused by air in the hy-

draulic system. Bleed and adjust the brakes as described
in Chapter Thirteen.

Brake Drag

Check the brake adjustment, while checking for insuffi-

cient brake pedal and/or hand lever free play. Also check
for worn, loose or missing parts in the brake calipers.
Check the brake disc for excessive runout.

TROUBLESHOOTING

59

2

Brakes Squeal or Chatter

Check brake pad thickness and disc condition. Make

sure the caliper anti-rattle springs are properly installed
and in good condition. Clean off any dirt on the pads.
Loose components can also cause this problem. Check
for:

1. Warped brake disc.

2. Loose brake disc.

3. Loose caliper mounting bolts.

4. Loose front axle nut.

5. Worn wheel bearings.

6. Damaged hub.

Table 1 STARTER SPECIFICATIONS

Minimum no-load speed @ 11.5 volts

3000 rpm

Maximum no-load current @ 11.5 volts

90 amps (max)

Current draw

Normal

160-180 amps

Maximum

200 amps

Brush length (minimum)

0.433 in. (11.0 mm )

Commutator diameter (minimum)

1.141 in. (28.981 mm)

Table 2 ELECTRICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Item

Specification

Battery capacity

12 volts, 19 amp hour/270 CCA*

Maximum current draw

5.5 mA

Alternator

AC voltage output

Carbureted

16-20 volts per 1000 rpm

EFI

19-26 VAC per 1000 rpm

Stator coil resistance

0.1-0.3 ohm

Voltage regulator

Voltage output @ 3600 rpm

14.3-14.7 @ 75

!

F (24

!

C)

Amps @ 3000 rpm

Carbureted

34-40 amps

EFI

41-48 amps

Ignition coil

Primary resistance

0.5-0.7 ohm

Secondary resistance

5500-7500 ohms

Spark plug cable resistance

Short cable (7.25 in./184 mm)

1812-4375 ohms

Long cable (19.0 in./483 mm)

4750-11,230 ohms

Circuit breaker

30 amp

Fuses

Ignition

15 amp

Lighting

15 amp

Accessory

15 amp

Instrument

15 amp

Security

15 amp

Fuel pump (EFI)

15 amp

Electronic control module (EFI)

15 amp

*CCA (Cold cranking amperage)

60

CHAPTER TWO

Table 3 ENGINE MANAGEMENT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES

code No.

Fault condition

11

Throttle position sensor (EFI)

12

MAP sensor (carburetted)

13

Barometric pressure sensor (EFI)

14

Engine temperature sensor (EFI)

15

Intake air temperature sensor (EFI)

16

Battery positive voltage

23

Front cylinder fuel injector (EFI)

24

Front cylinder ignition coil

25

Rear cylinder ignition coil

32

Rear cylinder fuel injector (EFI)

33

Fuel pump relay (EFI)

34

Loss of idle speed control

41

Crankshaft position sensor

43

VSS sensor low

44

Bank angle sensor

52

RAM error or failure

53

ROM error or failure

54

EPROM error or failure

55

Ignition module failure

56

Camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position

sensor timing or signal error

TROUBLESHOOTING

61

2

CHAPTER THREE

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE

AND TUNE-UP

This chapter covers lubrication, maintenance and

tune-up procedures. If a procedure requires more than mi-
nor disassembly, reference to the appropriate chapter is
listed. Maintenance intervals, capacities, recommenda-
tions and specification are in Tables 1-10 at the end of this
chapter.

To maximize the service life of the motorcycle, and

gain maximum safety and performance, it is necessary to
perform periodic inspections and maintenance. Minor
problems found during routine service can be corrected
before they develop into major ones.

Consider the maintenance schedule a guide. Harder

than normal use and exposure to mud, water or high hu-
midity indicates the need for more frequent servicing to
most maintenance items. Record all service and repairs in
the maintenance log at the back of this manual. A running
record will make it easier to evaluate future maintenance
requirements and maintain the motorcycle in top condi-
tion.

ROUTINE SAFETY CHECKS

Pre-ride Inspection

1. Check wheel and tire condition. Check tire pressure.
Refer to

Tires and Wheels

in this chapter.

2. Make sure all lights work. Refer to

Lights and Horn

in

this chapter.

3. Check engine, transmission and primary drive
chaincase for oil leakage. If necessary, add oil as de-
scribed in this chapter.

4. Check brake fluid level and condition. If necessary,
add fluid as described in this chapter.

5. Check the operation of the front and rear brakes.

6. Check clutch operation. If necessary, adjust the clutch
as described in this chapter.

7. Check the throttle operation. The throttle should move
smoothly and return quickly when released. If necessary,
adjust throttle free play as described in this chapter.

8. Inspect the front and rear suspension. They should
have a solid feel with no looseness.

9. Check the exhaust system for leakage or damage.

10. Inspect the fuel system for leakage.

11. Check the fuel level in fuel tank.

12. Check drive belt tension as described in this chapter.

CAUTION

When checking the tightness of the exposed
fasteners, do not check the cylinder head
bolts without following the procedure de-
scribed in Chapter Four.

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Lights and Horn

Turn the ignition switch ON, and check the following:

1. Pull the front brake lever and make sure the brake light
works.
2. Push the rear brake pedal down and check that the
brake light comes on soon after the pedal has been de-
pressed.
3. Make sure the headlight and taillight work.
4. Move the dimmer switch between the HIGH and LOW
positions, and make sure both headlight elements are
working.
5. Push the turn signal switch to the left and right posi-
tions, and make sure all four turn signal lights are work-
ing.
6. Make sure all accessory lights work properly, if so
equipped.
7. Check the horn button operation.
8. If the horn or any light fails to work properly, refer to
Chapter Eight.

TIRES AND WHEELS

Tire Pressure

Check the tire pressure often to maintain tire profile,

traction and handling, and to get the maximum life out of
the tire. Carry a tire gauge in the motorcycle’s tool kit. Ta-
ble 2 lists the cold tire pressures for the original equip-
ment tires.

NOTE

After checking and adjusting the air pres-
sure, reinstall the air valve caps. These caps
prevent debris from collecting in the valve
stems and causing air leakage or incorrect
tire pressure readings.

Tire Inspection

Inspect the tires periodically for excessive wear, deep

cuts and imbedded objects such as stones or nails. If a nail
or other object is found in a tire, mark its location with a
light crayon prior to removing it. This will help locate the
hole for repair.

Measure the depth (Figure 1) with a tread depth gauge

or a small ruler. As a guideline, replace tires when the
tread depth is 5/16 in. (8. 0 mm.) or less. Refer to Chapter
Nine for tire changing and repair information.

Laced Wheel Spoke Tension

On models with laced wheels, check for loose or dam-

aged spokes. Refer to Chapter Nine for spoke service.

Rim Inspection

Check the wheel rims for cracks and other damage. If

they are damaged, a rim can make the motorcycle handle
poorly. Refer to Chapter Nine for wheel service.

PERIODIC LUBRICATION

Oil Tank Inspection

Before inspecting the oil level, inspect the oil tank for

cracks or other damage. If oil seepage is evident on or near
the oil tank, locate and repair the problem. Check the oil
tank mounting bolts for loose or missing fasteners; re-
place or tighten all fasteners. Check all oil line connec-
tions on the tank (Figure 2 and Figure 3) and the engine
crankcase (Figure 4). Each oil line is connected with a

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

63

3

2

1

special connector assembly. Replace damaged oil lines
immediately as described under

Oil Tank

in Chapter Four.

Engine Oil Level Check

Check the engine oil level with the dipstick/oil filler cap

(Figure 5) on the right side of the oil tank.
1. Start and run the engine for approximately ten minutes
or until the engine has reached normal operating tempera-
ture. Then turn the engine off and allow the oil to settle in
the oil tank.
2. Place the motorcycle on a level surface and hold it
upright.

CAUTION

Checking the oil level with the motorcycle
on the jiffy stand will result in an incorrect
oil level reading.

3. Wipe the area around the oil filler cap with a clean rag.
Then pull the oil filler cap (Figure 5) out of the oil tank.
Wipe the dipstick with a clean rag and reinsert the filler
cap all the way into the oil tank until it bottoms. Withdraw
the filler cap and check the oil level on the dipstick. The
oil level should be at the upper groove mark on the dip-
stick (Figure 6). If the oil level is even with or below the
ADD QUART mark, continue with Step 4. If the oil level
is correct, go to Step 5.
4. Add the recommended engine oil listed in Table 3.

CAUTION

Do not overfill the oil level in the oil tank or
the oil filler cap will pop out when the oil
gets hot.

5. Check the oil filler cap O-ring (Figure 7) for cracks or
other damage. Replace the O-ring if necessary.
6. Reinstall the oil filler cap and push it down until it bot-
toms.

64

CHAPTER THREE

ADD

QUART

CHECK OIL WARM

6

Upper
groove

4

5

7

3

Engine Oil and Filter Change

Regular oil and filter changes contribute more to engine

longevity than any other maintenance performed. Table 1
lists the recommended oil and filter change intervals for
motorcycles operated in moderate climates. If the motor-
cycle is operated under dusty conditions, the oil becomes
contaminated more quickly and should be changed more
frequently than recommended.

Use a motorcycle oil with an API classification of

SF

or

SG

. The classification is printed on the container. Always

use the same brand of oil at each change. Refer to Table 3
for correct oil viscosity to use under anticipated ambient
temperatures, not engine oil temperature. Using oil addi-
tives is not recommended as they may cause clutch slip-
page.

All Softail models are equipped with a premium 10 mi-

cron synthetic media oil filter. This is the only type of oil
filter recommended by Harley-Davidson.

WARNING

Contact with oil may cause skin cancer.
Wash oil from hands with soap and water as
soon as possible after handling engine oil.

CAUTION

Do not use the current SH and SJ rated au-
tomotive oils in motorcycle engines. The SH
and SJ rated oils contain friction modifiers
that reduce frictional losses on engine com-
ponents. Specifically designed for automo-
tive engines, these oils can damage
motorcycle engines and clutches.

NOTE

Never dispose of motor oil in the trash, on
the ground or down a storm drain. Many
service stations and oil retailers accept used
oil for recycling. Do not combine other flu-
ids with motor oil to be recycled. To locate a
recycler, contact the American Petroleum
Institute (API) at www.recycleoil.org.

1. Start and run the engine for approximately ten minutes
or until the engine has reached normal operating tempera-
ture. Turn the engine off and allow the oil to settle in the
oil tank. Support the motorcycle so that the oil can drain
completely.

CAUTION

Before removing the oil filler cap, clean off
all dirt and debris around it.

2. Remove the oil filler cap (Figure 5) to speed up the
flow of oil.

CAUTION

To avoid burning hands and arms, work
quickly and carefully when removing the oil
tank plug.

NOTE

The oil tank is equipped with an oil drain
line and hose that is connected to a fitting on
the rear right side of the frame (

Figure 8

).

3. Place a drain pan underneath the oil tank drain line
(Figure 9) drain plug, and remove the engine oil drain
plug and O-ring (Figure 10).

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

65

3

8

OIL TANK DRAIN

Drain plug

O-ring seal

4. Allow the oil to drain completely.
5. To replace the oil filter (Figure 11), perform the follow-
ing:

a. Temporarily install the drain bolt and O-ring, and

tighten the bolt finger-tight. Then move the drain
pan underneath the front portion of the crankcase
and the oil filter.

b. At the front left side of the engine, install a socket

type oil filter wrench (Figure 12) squarely over the
oil filter and loosen it

counterclockwise

. Quickly re-

move the oil filter as oil will begin to run out of it.

c. Hold the filter over the drain pan and pour out the

remaining oil. Place the filter in a plastic bag, seal
the bag and dispose of it properly.

d. Thoroughly wipe off all oil that drained onto the top

surface of the left crankcase half. Clean with a con-
tact cleaner to eliminate all oil residue from the en-
gine prior to installing the new oil filter.

e. Coat the gasket on the new filter with clean oil.

CAUTION

Tighten the oil filter by hand. Do not
overtighten.

f. Screw the oil filter onto its mount by hand and

tighten it until the filter gasket touches the sealing
surface, then tighten the filter by hand an additional
1/2 to 3/4 turn.

6. Remove the oil tank drain plug and gasket. Wipe the
drain plug sealing surface on the frame rail pan with a
clean, lint-free cloth.
7. Replace the engine oil tank drain plug O-ring (Figure
13) if it is leaking or damaged.
8. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil before in-
stalling it. Then screw in the drain plug and O-ring, and
tighten to 14-21 ft.-lb. (19-29 N•m).

CAUTION

Do not overfill the engine in Step 9. If too
much oil is added, the filler cap will be forced
out of the oil tank case when the oil gets hot.

9. Add the correct viscosity (Table 3) and quantity (Ta-
ble 4) of oil to the oil tank case. Insert the oil filler cap into
the case and push it down until it bottoms.

NOTE

After oil has been added, the oil level will
register above the upper groove dipstick
mark (

Figure 6

) until the engine runs and

the filter fills with oil. To obtain a correct
reading after adding oil and installing a
new oil filter, follow the procedure in Step
10.

66

CHAPTER THREE

9

10

11

12

10. After changing the engine oil and filter, check the oil
level as follows:

a. Start and run the engine for one minute, then shut it

off.

b. Check the oil level on the dipstick as described in

this chapter.

c. If the oil level is correct, it will register in the dip-

stick’s safe operating level range. If so,

do not

top

off or add oil to bring it to the upper groove level on
the dipstick.

11. Check the oil filter and drain plug for leaks.
12. Dispose the used oil properly.

Transmission Oil Level Check

Table 1 lists the recommended transmission oil inspec-

tion intervals. When checking the transmission oil level,
do not allow any dirt or debris to enter the transmission
case opening.

WARNING

Contact with oil may cause skin cancer.
Wash oil from hands with soap and water as
soon as possible after handling engine oil.

NOTE

The transmission oil level dipstick is on the
forward portion of the clutch release cover.

1. Ride the motorcycle for approximately ten minutes
and shift through all five gears until the transmission oil
has reached normal operating temperature. Turn the en-
gine off and allow the oil to settle in the case. Park the
motorcycle on a level surface and have an assistant sup-
port it so that it is standing straight up.

CAUTION

Do not check the oil level with the motorcy-
cle supported on its jiffy stand or the read-
ing will be incorrect.

2. Clean the area around the transmission filler cap/dip-
stick (Figure 14) and unscrew it.
3. Wipe the dipstick and reinsert it into the clutch release
cover housing. Do not screw the cap/dipstick into place.
Rest it on the housing top thread, then withdraw it. The oil
level is correct when it registers between the two dipstick
marks (Figure 15).

CAUTION

Do not add engine oil. Add only the recom-
mended transmission oil listed in

Table 5

.

4. If the oil level is low, add the recommended type of
transmission oil listed in Table 5. Do not overfill.
5. Inspect the filler cap O-ring. Replace it if it is worn or
damaged.
6. Install the oil filler cap/dipstick and tighten it securely.
7. Wipe any spilled oil off the clutch release cover housing.

Transmission Oil Change

Table 1 lists the recommended transmission oil change

intervals.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

67

3

14

13

Add

Full

O-ring

15

TRANSMISSION

DIPSTICK

1. Ride the motorcycle for approximately ten minutes
and shift through all five gears until the transmission oil
has reached normal operating temperature. Turn off the
engine and allow the oil to settle in the case. Park the mo-
torcycle on a level surface and have an assistant support it
so that it is standing straight up.
2. Clean the area around the transmission filler cap/dip-
stick (Figure 14). Unscrew and remove the filler cap/dip-
stick.

NOTE

The transmission drain plug is located on
the underside of the transmission case be-
tween the shock absorbers. A,

Figure 16

in-

dicates the location of the drain plug but the
plug is not visible.

3. Place a drain pan underneath the transmission case and
remove the transmission oil drain plug and O-ring (A,
Figure 16).
4. Check the drain plug O-ring for damage and replace it
if necessary.
5. The drain plug is magnetic. Check the plug for metal
debris that may indicate transmission damage, then wipe
the plug off. Replace the plug if it is damaged.
6. Install the transmission drain plug and O-ring and
tighten to 14-21 ft.-lb. (19-29 N•m).

CAUTION

Do not add engine oil. Only add the recom-
mended transmission oil in

Table 5

. Make

sure to add the oil to the correct oil filler
hole.

7. Refill the transmission through the filler cap/dipstick
hole with the recommended quantity (Table 4) and type
(Table 5) of transmission oil.
8. Install the transmission filler cap/dipstick cap and
O-ring (A, Figure 16), and tighten securely.
9. Remove the oil drain pan and dispose of the oil as out-
lined under

Engine Oil and Filter Change

in this chapter.

10. Ride the motorcycle until the transmission oil reaches
normal operating temperature. Then shut the engine off.
11. Check the transmission drain plug for leaks.
12. Check the transmission oil level as described in this
chapter. Readjust the level if necessary.

Primary Chaincase Oil Level Check

The primary chaincase oil lubricates the clutch, primary

chain and sprockets. Table 1 lists the intervals for check-
ing the chaincase oil level. When checking the primary

chaincase oil level, do not allow any dirt or debris to enter
the housing.
1. Park the motorcycle on a level surface and support it so
that it is standing straight up. Do not support it on the jiffy
stand.

CAUTION

Do not check the oil level with the motorcy-
cle supported on its jiffy stand or the read-
ing will be incorrect.

2. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspection
cover and quad ring (Figure 17). Remove the cover.
3. The oil level is correct when it is even with the bottom
of the clutch opening or at the bottom of the clutch dia-
phragm spring (Figure 18).

CAUTION

Do not add engine oil. Only add the recom-
mended primary chaincase lubricant listed
in

Table 5

.

4. If necessary, add the recommended type of primary
chaincase lubricant listed in Table 5 through the opening
to correct the level.
5. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the
primary chain case cover.

68

CHAPTER THREE

16

17