Harley Davidson Softail 2000-2005. Service manual — page 6

TROUBLESHOOTING

37

2

FOUR-STROKE ENGINE OPERATING PRINCIPLES

Intake valve opens
as piston begins
downward, drawing
air/fuel mixture into
the cylinder through
the valve.

COMPRESSION

INTAKE

Intake valve
closes and
piston rises
in cylinder,
compressing
air/fuel
mixture.

EXHAUST

POWER

Spark plug
ignites
compressed
mixture,
driving piston
downward.
Force is applied
to crankshaft,
causing it to
rotate.

1

Air/fuel

Cylinder

Intake valve

Carburetor

Exhaust
valve

Exhaust

Exhaust valve
opens as piston
rises in cylinder,
pushing spent
gasses out through
the valve.

17. Loose or corroded starter and/or battery cables.
18. A loose ignition sensor and module electrical connec-
tor.
19. Incorrect pushrod length (intake and exhaust valve
pushrods interchanged).

Engine Will Not Crank

Check for one or more of the following possible mal-

functions:
1. Ignition switch turned off.
2. A faulty ignition switch.
3. Engine run switch in off position.
4. A defective engine run switch.
5. Loose or corroded starter and battery cables (solenoid
chatters).
6. A discharged or defective battery.
7. A defective starter motor.
8. A defective starter solenoid.
9. A defective starter shaft pinion gear.
10. Slipping overrunning clutch assembly.
11. A seized piston(s).
12. Seized crankshaft bearings.
13. A broken connecting rod.

ENGINE PERFORMANCE

The following check lists assume the engine runs, but is

not operating at peak performance. This will serve as a
starting point from which to isolate a performance mal-
function.

Spark Plugs Fouled

If the spark plugs continually foul, check for the follow-

ing:
1. Severely contaminated air filter element.
2. Incorrect spark plug heat range. See Chapter Three.
3. Rich fuel mixture.
4. Worn or damaged piston rings.
5. Worn or damaged valve guide oil seals.
6. Excessive valve stem-to-guide clearance.
7. Incorrect carburetor float level.

Engine Runs but Misfires

1. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs.
2. Damaged spark plug cables.
3. Incorrect ignition timing.
4. Defective ignition components.

5. An obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve
(carbureted models).
6. Obstructed fuel filter.
7. Clogged carburetor jets.
8. Malfunctioning fuel pump (fuel injected models).
9. Loose battery connection.
10. Wiring or connector damage.
11. Water or other contaminates in the fuel.
12. Weak or damaged valve springs.
13. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing.
14. A damaged valve(s).

38

CHAPTER TWO

2

3

4

15. Dirty electrical connections.
16. Intake manifold or carburetor air leak.
17. Induction module air leak (fuel-injected models).
18. A plugged carburetor vent hose.
19. Plugged fuel tank vent system.

Engine Overheating

1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selection.
2. Incorrect ignition timing or defective ignition system
components.
3. Improper spark plug heat range.
4. Damaged or blocked cooling fins.
5. Low oil level.
6. Oil not circulating properly.
7. Leaking valves.
8. Heavy engine carbon deposits.

Engine Runs Rough with Excessive Exhaust Smoke

1. Clogged air filter element.
2. Rich carburetor adjustment.
3. Choke not operating correctly (carbureted models).
4. Water or other fuel contaminants.
5. Clogged fuel line and/or filter.
6. Spark plug(s) fouled.
7. A defective ignition coil.
8. A defective ignition module or sensor(s).
9. Loose or defective ignition circuit wire.
10. Short circuits from damaged wire insulation.

11. Loose battery cable connections.

12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing.

13. Intake manifold or air filter air leak (carbureted mod-
els).

14. Induction module or air filter air leak (fuel injected
models).

Engine Loses Power

1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment.

2. Engine overheating.

3. Incorrect ignition timing.

4. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs.

5. An obstructed muffler(s).

6. Dragging brake(s).

Engine Lacks Acceleration

1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment.

2. Clogged fuel line.

3. Incorrect ignition timing.

4. Dragging brake(s).

Valve Train Noise

1. A bent pushrod(s).

2. A defective hydraulic lifter(s).

3. A bent valve(s).

4. Rocker arm seizure or damage (binding on shaft).

5. Worn or damaged camshaft gear bushing(s).

6. Worn or damaged camshaft gear(s).

7. Worn or damaged camshaft drive chain(s).

STARTING SYSTEM

The starting system consists of the battery, starter,

starter relay, solenoid, start button, starter mechanism and
related wiring.

When the ignition switch is turned on and the start but-

ton is pushed in, current is transmitted from the battery to
the starter relay. When the relay is activated, it activates
the starter solenoid that mechanically engages the starter
with the engine.

Starting system problems are most often related to a

loose or corroded electrical connection.

Refer to Figure 5 for starter and solenoid terminal iden-

tification.

TROUBLESHOOTING

39

2

5

STARTER/SOLENOID

TERMINALS

C terminal

Field wire

M terminal

Starter

50 terminal

Troubleshooting Preparation

Before troubleshooting the starting system, check for

the following:
1. The battery is fully charged.
2. Battery cables are the proper size and length. Replace
damaged or undersized cables.
3. All electrical connections are clean and tight. High re-
sistance caused from dirty or loose connectors can affect
voltage and current levels.
4. The wiring harness is in good condition, with no worn
or frayed insulation or loose harness sockets.
5. The fuel tank is filled with an adequate supply of fresh
gasoline.
6. The spark plugs are in good condition and properly
gapped.
7. The ignition system is working correctly.

Voltage Drop Test

Before performing the steps listed under

Starter

Testing

, perform this voltage drop test. These steps check

the entire starting circuit to find weak or damaged electri-
cal components that may be causing the starting system
problem. A voltmeter is required to test voltage drop.
1. To check voltage drop in the solenoid circuit, connect
the positive voltmeter lead to the positive battery termi-
nal. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the solenoid
(Figure 6).

NOTE

The voltmeter lead must not touch the
starter-to-solenoid

terminal.

Figure

7

shows the solenoid terminal with the
starter/solenoid removed to better illustrate
the step.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON and push the starter button
while reading the voltmeter scale. Note the following:

a. The circuit is operating correctly if the voltmeter

reading is 2 volts or less. A voltmeter reading of 12
volts indicates an open circuit.

b. A voltage drop of more than 2 volts shows a prob-

lem in the solenoid circuit.

c. If the voltage drop reading is correct, continue with

Step 3.

3. To check the starter motor ground circuit, connect the
negative voltmeter lead to the negative battery terminal.
Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the starter motor
housing (Figure 8).
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and push the starter button
while reading the voltmeter scale. The voltage drop must

not exceed 0.2 volts. If it does, check the ground connec-
tions between the meter leads.

5. If the problem is not found, refer to

Starter Testing

in

this section.

NOTE

Steps 3 and 4 check the voltage drop across
the starter ground circuit. To check any

40

CHAPTER TWO

6

7

VOLTAGE DROP TEST

(SOLENIOD CIRCUIT)

0.1 amp

Start switch

0.1 amp

Ignition circuit

breaker

Main circuit

breaker

Ignition switch

20 amp

Relay

VOM

Solenoid

150 amp

Starter

150 amp

Battery

If installing a new rim band, make sure it is the correct di-
ameter and width for the wheel.
3. Lubricate both beads of the tire with soapy water.
4. When installing the tire on the rim, make sure the cor-
rect tire (either front or rear) is installed on the correct
wheel. Also make sure the direction arrow faces the direc-
tion of wheel rotation (Figure 75).
5. When remounting the old tire, align the mark made in
Step 2 of

Removal

with the valve stem (Figure 74).

6. Place the backside of the tire onto the rim so the lower
bead sits in the center of the rim while the upper bead re-
mains outside the rim (Figure 76). Work around the tire in
both directions and press the lower bead by hand into the
center of the rim. Use a tire iron for the last few inches of
bead.
7. On tube-type tires, perform the following:

a. Dust the inner tube with talcum powder before in-

stalling it in the tire. The talcum powder will pre-
vent the tube from sticking to the tire.

b. Inflate the tube just enough to round it out. Too

much air will make installation difficult.

c. Place the tube on top of the tire, aligning the valve

stem with the matching hole in the rim. Insert the
tube into the tire.

d. Lift the upper bead away from the rim with a hand

and insert the tube’s valve stem through the rim
hole. Check to make sure the valve stem is straight
up (90 degrees), not cocked to one side. If neces-
sary, reposition the tube in the tire. If the valve stem
wants to slide out of the hole and back into the tire,
install the valve stem nut at the top of the valve; do
not tighten the nut at this time.

8. Press the upper bead into the rim opposite the valve
stem. Working on both sides of this initial point, pry the
bead into the rim with the tire tool, and work around the
rim to the valve stem (Figure 77). On tube-type tires, do
not pinch the inner tube during the last few inches. If the
tire wants to pull up on one side, either use another tire
iron or one knee to hold the tire in place. The last few
inches are usually the toughest to install. Continue to push
the tire into the rim by hand. Re-lubricate the bead if nec-
essary. If the tire bead pulls out from under the rim, use
both knees to hold the tire in place. If necessary, use a tire
iron for the last few inches (Figure 78).
9. On tube-type tires, check to make sure that the valve
stem is straight up (90

!

), not cocked to one side (Figure

79). If necessary, slide the tire along the rim in either di-
rection while holding the rim securely. When the valve
stem is straight up, tighten the valve stem nut at the top of
the valve; do not tighten it against the rim at this time.
Check that the tube was not forced outward so that it rests

between the tire bead and the rim. If necessary, push the
tube back into the tire.

10. Bounce the wheel several times, rotating it each time.
This will force the tire bead against the rim flanges. After
the tire beads are in contact with the rim, inflate the tire to
seat the beads.

11A. On tube-type tires, perform the following:

a. Inflate the tube to it maximum tire pressure to seat

the tire beads in the rim.

b. After inflating the tire, make sure the beads are fully

seated and the rim lines are the same distance from
the rim all the way around the tire (Figure 80).

c. If the tire beads do not seat properly, release the air

pressure and re-lubricate the tire beads.

d. When the tire is seated correctly, remove the valve

core and deflate the tire allowing the tube to
straighten out within the tire.

406

CHAPTER NINE

74

75

Valve stem

Rim

Balance mark

e. Install the valve core and inflate the tire to the pres-

sure in Table 3.

f. Tighten the valve stem nut securely and install the

valve stem cap.

11B. On tubeless tires, perform the following:

a. Place an inflatable band around the circumference of

the tire. Slowly inflate the band until the tire beads
are pressed against the rim. Inflate the tire enough to
make it seat, deflate the band and remove it.

WARNING

In the next step, never exceed 40 psi (276
kPa) inflation pressure as the tire could
burst, causing severe injury. Never stand di-
rectly over a tire while inflating it.

b. After inflating the tire, make sure the beads are fully

seated and the rim lines are the same distance from
the rim all the way around the tire (Figure 80). If the
beads will not seat, deflate the tire and lubricate the
rim and beads with soapy water.

c. Re-inflate the tire to the pressure in Table 3. Install

the valve stem cap.

12. Check tire runout as described in this chapter.

13. Balance the wheel as described in this chapter.

14A. Install the front wheel as described in this chapter.

14B. Install the rear wheel as described in this chapter.

TIRE REPAIRS

(TUBELESS)

NOTE

Changing or patching on the road is very
difficult. A can of pressurized tire inflator

WHEELS, HUBS AND TIRES

407

9

77

78

79

80

76

Rim
circumference

Tire rim line

ground circuit in the starting circuit, repeat
this test and leave the negative voltmeter
lead connected to the battery and connect
the positive voltmeter lead to the ground in
question.

Starter Testing

The basic starter-related troubles are:

1. Starter does not spin.
2. Starter spins but does not engage.
3. The starter will not disengage after the start button is
released.
4. Loud grinding noises when starter turns.
5. Starter stalls or spins too slowly.

CAUTION

Never operate the starter for more than 30
seconds at a time. Allow the starter to cool
before reusing it. Failing to allow the starter
to cool after continuous starting attempts
can damage the starter.

Starter does not spin

1. Turn the ignition switch ON and push the starter button
while listening for a click at the starter relay in the electri-
cal panel. Turn the ignition switch OFF and note the fol-
lowing:

a. If the starter relay clicks, test the starter relay as de-

scribed in this section. If the starter relay test read-
ings are correct, continue with Step 2.

b. If the solenoid clicks, go to Step 3.
c. If there was no click, go to Step 6.

2. Check the wiring connectors between the starter relay
and solenoid. Note the following:

a. Repair any dirty, loose fitting or damaged connec-

tors or wiring.

b. If the wiring is in good condition, remove the starter

motor as described in Chapter Eight. Perform the
solenoid and starter motor bench tests described in
this section.

3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery and so-
lenoid terminals as described under

Voltage Drop Test

in

this section. The normal voltage drop is less than 2 volts.
Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, perform Step

4.

b. If the voltage drop is more than 2 volts, check the

solenoid and battery wires and connections for dirty
or loose fitting terminals; clean and repair as re-
quired.

4. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Eight. Mo-
mentarily connect a fully charged 12-volt battery to the
starter as shown in Figure 9. If the starter is operational, it
will turn when connected to the battery. Disconnect the
battery and note the following:

TROUBLESHOOTING

41

2

8

VOLTAGE DROP TEST

(STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT)

0.1 amp

Start switch

20 amp

Ignition circuit

breaker

Ignition switch

Main circuit

breaker

Battery

VOM

150 amp

150 amp

Starter

Solenoid

Relay

0.1 amp

9

STARTER JUMP TEST

Battery

50 terminal

C terminal

a. If the starter turns, perform the solenoid pull-in and

hold-in tests as described under

Solenoid Testing

(Bench Tests)

in this section.

b. If the starter does not turn, disassemble the starter as

described in Chapter Eight, and check it for opens,
shorts and grounds.

5. If the problem is not evident after performing Steps 3
and 4, check the starter shaft to see if it is binding at the
jackshaft. Check the jackshaft for binding or damage. Refer
to

Starter Jackshaft

in Chapter Five.

6. If there is no click when performing Step 1, measure
voltage between the starter button and the starter relay. The
voltmeter must read battery voltage. Note the following:

a. If battery voltage is noted, continue with Step 7.
b. If there is no voltage, go to Step 8.

7. Check the starter relay ground at the stater relay. Note
the following:

a. If the starter releay is properly grounded, test the

starter relay as described in this section.

b. If the starter relay is not grounded, check the ground

connection. Repair the ground connection, then retest.

8. Check for voltage at the starter button. Note the fol-
lowing:

a. If there is voltage at the starter button, test the starter

relay as described in this section.

b. If there is no voltage at the starter button, check con-

tinuity across the starter button. If there is voltage
leading to the starter button but no voltage leaving
the starter button, replace the button switch and re-
test. If there is no voltage leading to the starter but-
ton, check the starter button wiring for dirty or
loose-fitting terminals or damaged wiring; clean
and/or repair as required.

Starter spins but does not engage

If the starter spins but the pinion gear does not engage

the clutch shell ring gear, perform the following:
1. Remove the outer primary cover as described in Chap-
ter Five.
2. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 10) mounted on the
end of the jackshaft. If the teeth are chipped or worn, in-
spect the clutch shell ring gear (B, Figure 10) for the same
problems. Note the following:

a. If the pinion gear and ring gears are damaged, ser-

vice these parts as described in Chapter Five.

b. If the pinion gear and clutch shell ring gears are not

damaged, continue with Step 3.

3. Remove and disassemble the starter as described in
Chapter Eight. Then check the overrunning clutch assem-
bly (Figure 11) for the following:

a. Roller damage (Figure 12).

b. Compression spring damage (A, Figure 13).
c. Excessively worn or damaged pinion teeth.
d. Pinion does not run in overrunning direction.
e. Damaged clutch shaft splines (B, Figure 13).
f. Damaged overrunning clutch assembly (Figure 14).

4. Replace worn or damaged parts as required.

Starter will not disengage after the start
button is released

1. A sticking solenoid, caused by a worn solenoid com-
pression spring (A, Figure 13), can cause this problem.
Replace the solenoid if damaged.
2. On high-mileage motorcycles, the pinion gear (A, Fig-
ure 10) can jam on a worn clutch ring gear (B). Unable to

42

CHAPTER TWO

10

11

12

return, the starter will continue to run. This condition usu-
ally requires ring gear replacement.

3. Check the start button switch and starter relay for inter-
nal damage. Test the start switch as described under

Switches

in Chapter Eight. Test the starter relay as de-

scribed in this chapter.

Loud grinding noises when the starter turns

Incorrect pinion gear and clutch shell ring gear engage-

ment (B, Figure10) or a broken overrunning clutch mech-
anism (Figure 14) can cause this problem. Remove and
inspect the starter as described in Chapter Eight.

Starter stalls or spins too slowly

1. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery and so-
lenoid terminals as described under

Voltage Drop Test

in

this section. The normal voltage drop is less than 2 volts.
Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, continue with

Step 2.

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the sole-

noid and battery wires and connections for dirty or
loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as required.

2. Perform a voltage drop test between the solenoid ter-
minals and the starter. The normal voltage drop is less
than 2 volts. Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, continue with

Step 3.

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the solenoid

and starter wires and connections for dirty or loose-fit-
ting terminals; clean and repair as required.

3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery ground
wire and the starter as described under

Voltage Drop Tests

in this section. The normal voltage drop is less than 0.2
volts. Note the following:

a. If the voltage drop is less than 0.2 volts, continue

with Step 4.

b. If the voltage drop exceeds 0.2 volts, check the bat-

tery ground wire connections for dirty or loose-fit-
ting terminals; clean and repair as required.

4. Refer to

Starter Current Draw Tests

in this section and

perform the first test. Note the following:

a. If the current draw is excessive, check for a dam-

aged starter or starter drive assembly. Remove the
starter as described in Chapter Eight and perform
the second test.

b. If the current draw reading is correct, continue with

Step 5.

5. Remove the outer primary cover as described in Chap-
ter Five. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 10). If the teeth
are chipped or worn, inspect the clutch ring gear (B, Fig-
ure 10) for the same problem.

a. If the pinion gear and ring gears are damaged, ser-

vice these parts as described in Chapter Five.

b. If the pinion gear and ring gears are not damaged,

continue with Step 6.

6. Remove and disassemble the starter as described in
Chapter Eight. Check the disassembled starter for opens,
shorts and grounds.

Starter Current Draw Tests

The following current draw test measures the current

(amperage) the starter circuit requires to crank over the
engine. Refer to Table 1 for current draw specifica-
tions.

A short circuit in the starter or a damaged pinion gear

assembly can cause excessive current draw. If the current
draw is low, suspect an undercharged battery or an open
circuit in the starting circuit.

TROUBLESHOOTING

43

2

14

13

Current draw test (starter installed)

NOTE

This test requires a fully charged battery
and an inductive ammeter.

1. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the two spark plug caps from the spark
plugs. Then ground the plug caps with two extra spark
plugs. Do

not

remove the spark plugs from the cylinder

heads.
3. Connect an inductive ammeter between the starter mo-
tor terminal and positive battery terminal (Figure 15).
Connect a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal
to ground (Figure 15).
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and press the start button
for approximately ten seconds. Note the ammeter reading.

NOTE

The current draw is high when the start but-
ton is first pressed, then it will drop and sta-
bilize at a lower reading. Refer to the lower
stabilized reading during this test.

5. If the current draw exceeds the specification in Table
1, check for a defective starter or starter drive mechanism.
Remove and service these components as described in
Chapter Eight.
6. Disconnect the ammeter and jumper cables.

Current draw test (starter removed)

This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery, an in-

ductive ammeter, a jumper wire (14 gauge minimum) and
three jumper cables (6-gauge minimum).

Refer to Figure 16.

1. Remove the starter as described in Chapter Eight.

NOTE

The solenoid must be installed on the starter
during the following tests.

2. Mount the starter in a vise with soft jaws.
3. Connect the 14-gauge jumper cable between the positive
battery terminal and the solenoid 50 terminal.
4. Connect a jumper cable (6-gauge minimum) between
the positive battery terminal and the ammeter.
5. Connect the second jumper cable between the amme-
ter and the M terminal on the starter solenoid.
6. Connect the third jumper cable between the battery
ground terminal and the starter motor mounting flange.
7. Read the ammeter; the no-load current specification is
90 amps. A damaged pinion gear assembly will cause an
excessively high current draw reading. If the current draw

44

CHAPTER TWO

15

CURRENT DRAW TEST

(STARTER INSTALLED)

Battery

Inductive
ammeter

Solenoid

Starter

16

CURRENT DRAW TEST

(STARTER REMOVED)

Battery

50 terminal

Ammeter

M terminal

Starter mounting
flange