Scania DI12, DC12 EMS with S6/PDE. Industrial engine. Instruction — part 3
33
1. Daily:
Checking the oil level
Note:
Before checking oil level: Leave the engine switched off for at
least 1 minute.
- The correct level is between the marks on the dipstick. Top up when the
level is at the lower mark.
- For the correct oil grade, see page 32.
Checking oil level during operation
On some engines the oil level can be checked during operation.
- Remove the oil filler cap to release the pressure in the crankcase.
- Check the level on the dipstick. Correct oil level: 10 mm below the Min.
or Max. mark.
2. Every 400 hours:
Oil change
Note:
If the engine is used for especially demanding operations,
particularly in a dusty environment or if the deposits in the
centrifugal cleaner are thicker than 20 mm: change the oil more
frequently.
- Unscrew the oil plug and drain the oil when the engine is hot.
- In certain engines the oil is pumped out by means of a bilge pump.
- Clean the magnet on the oil plug.
- Refit the oil plug and top up with oil.
- Check the level on the oil dipstick.
Max. 33 dm
3
Min. 28 dm
3
1 dm
3
= 1 litre
Maximum angles of inclination during operation
Maximum permissible angles during operation vary, depending on the type of
oil sump, see illustration.
Note:
The specified angles may only occur intermittently.
35°
25°
25°
35°
The oil may be hot.
Wear protective gloves and
goggles.
Max.
Min.
Use a container to avoid spillage
when changing the oil. Dispose
of used oil through an
authorised waste disposal
contractor.
WARNING
!
Help protect our
environment!
34
3. Every 400 hours:
Cleaning the oil cleaner
(in connection with oil change)
- Clean the cover. Unscrew the nut and remove the cover.
- Lift out the rotor and wipe the outside. Unscrew the rotor cover nut
about one and a half turns.
- If the rotor nut is jammed:
Turn the rotor upside down and fasten the nut in a vice, and turn the
rotor one and a half turns counterclockwise by hand, or use an M20 nut
as illustrated.
Note:
The rotor must never be put in a vice.
- Hold the rotor and tap lightly on the rotor nut with a plastic mallet or
against the workbench, so that the rotor bowl comes loose from the
bottom plate. Never strike on the rotor directly as this may damage the
bearings.
- Unscrew the nut and remove the rotor cover.
- Remove the strainer. If the strainer has seized in the rotor bowl, pry
carefully using a screwdriver between the rotor bowl and the strainer.
- If the strainer has seized in the rotor, pry carefully between the rotor and
the strainer.
- Scrape off the deposits from the inside of the rotor cover. If there are no
deposits, this indicates that the cleaner is not working properly.
- If the deposits are thicker than 28 mm: clean more often.
Open the cover carefully. The
oil may be hot.
WARNING
!
35
- Wash all parts in diesel oil.
- Make sure the nozzles on the rotor are not blocked or damaged.
- Check that the bearings are undamaged. If they are damaged the entire
rotor must be renewed.
- Fit a new O-ring on the rotor and fit the strainer.
- Reassemble the rotor.
- Tighten the rotor nut firmly by hand.
- Check that the shaft is not loose. If it is loose, use locking compound
561 200 and torque tighten to 34 Nm using tool 98 421.
- In order to tighten the rotor shaft, it is necessary to modify socket
wrench 98 421:
- Drill out the threads from a M20 nut so that it fits on the square drive
of the socket wrench.
- Weld the nut into place.
- Refit the rotor.
- Check that it rotates easily by rotating it instructionly.
- Fit a new O ring on the bowl and fit the bowl.
- Screw the bowl on and tighten the lock nut to 15 Nm.
Tighten the nut carefully so as not to damage the rotor shaft, nut or cover.
Functional inspection
The rotor rotates very fast and should continue to rotate when the engine has
stopped.
- Stop the engine when it is warm.
- Listen for a whirring sound from the rotor or feel whether the cleaner
housing is vibrating.
The rotor normally continues spinning for 30-60 seconds after the engine has
stopped.
If not: dismantle and check.
36
4. Every 400 hours:
Renewing the oil filter
(in connection with oil change)
- Remove the old filter.
- Fit a new Scania genuine filter. Oil the seal on the filter before fitting.
- Tighten the filter by hand.
Never use tools for this. The filter could sustain damage, obstructing
circulation.
- Start the engine and check for leaks.
Important!
If the deposits in the centrifugal cleaner are more than
20 mm thick, the oil filter must be renewed more often. The
same is true for cleaning the centrifugal filter and
changing the oil.
Cooling system
5. Daily:
Checking coolant level
- Open the expansion tank filler cap and check the coolant level.
- Correct level:
(Scania plastic expansion tank)
- Cold engine:
The coolant should be level with the bottom of the
filler neck.
- Hot engine:
The coolant should be about 25 mm above the
lower edge of the filler hole.
- Other types of expansion tank according to the instructions of the fitter.
- Top up the coolant as necessary; see point 6.
Note:
When filling large amounts of coolant:
Never pour cold coolant into a hot engine. This could crack the
cylinder block and cylinder head.
Always top up with pre-mixed
coolant.
Open the cap carefully.
Water and steam can spray out.
Use a container to avoid spillage
when renewing the filter.
Dispose of used filters through
an authorised waste disposal
contractor.
Important
!
WARNING
!
Help protect our
environment!
37
6. Every 2,400 hours:
Checking coolant
Coolant should be checked as follows:
a)
Check the appearance of the coolant.
b)
Coolant with glycol only: Check the glycol content.
c)
Coolant containing only Scania Corrosion Inhibitor: check the corrosion
inhibitor content
The composition of the coolant is described in more detail under
"Starting and running"
a)
Checking the appearance of the coolant
- Pour a small amount of coolant in a container, and check that the coolant
is pure and clear.
- If the coolant is contaminated or cloudy: Consider changing the coolant.
- Water for the coolant must be clean and free from contamination.
- Use drinking water with a pH of 6-9.
b)
Checking the glycol content
If there is a danger of freezing, use only glycol as an anti-corrosive in the
coolant.
- Cooling systems with glycol should contain at least 30% glycol by
volume to provide acceptable protection against corrosion.
- 30% glycol by volume provides protection against freezing to -16°C. If
additional protection against freezing is required, see the table on the
next page to help you calculate how much glycol you need.
We recommend only nitrite-free antifreeze glycols with the following
supplier designations:
BASF G48 or BASF D542
- Always add glycol if the glycol content drops below 30% by volume. A
glycol content above 60% by volume will not provide greater protection
against freezing.
- The table shows the temperature at which ice starts to form. The engine
will freeze and break at appreciably lower temperatures; see diagram.
- Ice forming in the coolant often causes malfunctioning without any risk
of damage. The engine should not be subjected to heavy loads when ice
starts to form.
Note:
The coolant should be changed when the cooling system is
cleaned: every 4,800 hours or at least every 5 years.
Important!
If a coolant filter is used in the cooling system it must not
contain an inhibitor.
Coolant composition:
If there is a danger of freezing:
minimum 30% glycol by
volume
maximum 60% glycol by
volume
If there is no danger of freezing:
8-12% by volume
Scania Corrosion Inhibitor
The coolant should be pre-
mixed when it is poured into the
cooling system.
Never top up with only water or
only glycol.
Ethylene glycol is highly
dangerous if imbibed and can
prove fatal.
Avoid skin contact with glycol.
The recommended glycols must
not be mixed with glycol
containing nitrite-based
corrosion inhibitor.
Risk of sludge build-up and
reduced cooling capacity.
Important
!
Important
!
WARNING
!
38
A
A = Area to be avoided. Only for calculating glycol mix.
Coolant freezing point (when ice starts to form) for different glycol mixes
Glycol % by
volume
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
60
Cooling system
volume, dm
3
Ice slush starts to
form at °C
-6
-9
-12 -16 -22 -27 -36 -46 -55
Glycol dm
3
(litres)
5
6
8
9
11
12
14
15
18
30
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
24
40
8
10
13
15
18
20
23
25
30
50
9
12
15
18
21
24
27
30
36
60
11
14
18
21
25
28
32
35
42
70
12
16
20
24
28
32
36
40
48
80
14
18
23
27
32
36
41
45
54
90
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
60
100
17
22
28
33
39
44
50
55
66
110
18
24
30
36
42
48
54
60
72
120
20
26
33
39
46
52
59
65
78
130
21
28
35
42
49
56
63
70
84
140
23
30
38
45
53
60
68
75
90
150
24
32
40
48
56
64
72
80
96
160
26
34
43
51
60
68
77
85
102
170
27
36
45
54
63
72
81
90
108
180
29
38
48
57
67
76
86
95
114
190
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100 120
200
Curve A: Ice formation starts (ice slush)
Curve B: Temperature at which there is a risk of damage by freezing
1. Safe range
2. Malfunctions may occur (ice slush)
3. Risk of damage by freezing
Characteristics of glycol at low temperatures:
- Example with 30% glycol by volume
- Ice slush starts to form at -16°C.
- There is a risk of malfunctions at -30°C
- No risk of damage by freezing with a minimum
content of 30% glycol by volume
Antifreeze glycol, % by volume
39
c)
Checking the corrosion inhibitor
There must always be sufficient corrosion protection (inhibitor) in the coolant
to protect the cooling system against corrosion.
If there is no danger of freezing, only Scania Corrosion Inhibitor should be
used in the coolant.
The inhibitor in Scania Corrosion Inhibitor is free of nitrites.
The correct corrosion inhibitor content is 8-12% by volume.
- Topping up with 1.0% Scania Corrosion Inhibitor by volume should be
done after every 2,400 hours of operation.
- Never top up with water alone or corrosion inhibitor alone!
Fluid losses must always be replaced with pre-mixed coolant: water
+ 10% Scania Corrosion Inhibitor by volume.
Note:
The coolant should be changed when the cooling system is
cleaned: every 4,800 hours or at least every 5 years.
Changing coolant
1.
Remove the filler cap from the expansion tank.
2.
The coolant is drained at two points:
- the lowest point of the cylinder block, see illustration.
- the lowest point of the cooling system.
3.
Close the cocks.
4.
Top up with coolant through the expansion tank’s filler hole.
Mix coolant as described on page 35.
Use a container to avoid spills
when changing the coolant.
Dispose of used coolant through
an authorised waste disposal
contractor.
If a coolant filter has been fitted
it must not contain inhibitor.
Mixing with glycol or the use of
too much corrosion protection
can lead to build up of sludge
and reduced cooling capacity.
Corrosion inhibitor is highly
dangerous if ingested and can
prove fatal.
Avoid contact with the skin.
Important
!
Important
!
WARNING
!
Help protect our
environment!
40
7. Every 4,800 hours:
Cleaning the cooling system
Note:
If necessary, the cooling system should be cleaned more often.
External cleaning
Radiator
- Check that the radiator is not clogged on the air side and that the cooling
fins are not damaged.
- Carefully scrape the deposit off the radiator’s cooling fins. If necessary,
a paraffin-based engine cleaner can be used.
- Bent fins can be straightened using a wire brush, for example, and
exercising care.
Charge air cooler, DI engine
1.
Drain the coolant from the engine, see "Changing the coolant".
2.
Detach the intake manifold from the turbo.
3.
Detach the charge air cooler’s inlet and outlet connections.
4.
Unbolt the charge air cooling package from the intake manifold. The
charge air element is integrated into the housing.
Take care not to damage the element’s water connections.
5.
Clean the outside of the core. This is especially important if the engine is
equipped with closed crankcase ventilation. Use a paraffin-based engine
cleaner.
6.
Clean and degrease the sealing surfaces on the element and on the intake
manifold with a spirit-based cleaning agent.
7.
Apply a smooth bead of sealing agent (silicone 816 064), approximately
2-3 mm, onto the intake manifold sealing surface.
8.
Assemble the charge air cooler within 15 minutes of applying the
sealant. Tighten the bolts to 26 Nm.
9.
Refit the inlet and outlet connections with new
O-rings.
10.
Refit the delivery pipe clamps.
11.
Connect the intake manifold from the turbo.
12.
Fill up with coolant according to the
specification on page 35.
Important!
Let the sealing compound harden
for at least 24 hours before the
engine is used again.
1.
Charge air
cooler element
2.
O-ring
3.
Sealant 816 064
4.
Intake manifold
1
2
3
4
The cooling system must never
be cleaned with caustic soda.
There is a risk of damage to
aluminium parts.
Important
!
41
Internal cleaning
Removing oil and grease
- If possible, run the engine until it has reached operating temperature and
then drain the cooling system.
- Remove the thermostats.
- Fill the system with clean, hot water mixed with liquid dishwasher
detergent designed for household use.
Concentration 1% (0.1/10 l).
- Run the engine until warm for about 20-30 minutes. Do not forget the
cab heating system (if fitted).
- Drain the cooling system.
- Fill the system again using clean, hot water and run the engine for about
20-30 minutes.
- Drain the water from the system.
- Refit the thermostats.
- Top up the system with new coolant according to the specification on
page 35.
Removing deposits
- If possible, run the engine until it has reached operating temperature and
then drain the cooling system.
- Remove the thermostats.
- Fill the system with clean, hot water mixed with some of the radiator
cleaning agent available on the market which is based on sulphamic acid
and contains dispersing agents. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
for the concentration and cleaning period.
- Run the engine for the specified time and then drain the cooling system.
- Refill the system with hot water and run the engine for about
20-30 minutes.
- Drain the water from the system.
- Refit the thermostats.
- Top up the system with coolant according to the specification on
page 35.
When handling cooling system
detergent:
read the warning text on the
containers.
Use a container to avoid spills
when changing the coolant.
Dispose of used coolant through
an authorised waste disposal
contractor.
WARNING
!
Help protect our
environment!
42
Air cleaner
8. Daily:
Test reading of vacuum indicator
If the red indicator bar is entirely visible, change or clean the air cleaner filter
element, point 10. This is particularly important if the engine is run at high
loads and high speed.
9. Every 200 hours:
Cleaning the air cleaner’s coarse
cleaner
1.
Remove the cover from the coarse cleaner (2).
2.
Remove the conical coarse separator. Empty out the particles of dirt and
clean it.
3.
Fit the coarse cleaner as shown in the figure and screw the cover into
place.
10. Every 1,200 hours:
Cleaning or changing filter element
Note:
Clean or renew the filter element earlier if the vacuum indicator
shows red.
Dismantling
1.
Remove the cover from the air cleaner.
2.
Renew or clean the filter element.
Note:
There is always a risk that the filter element will be damaged
during cleaning. The filter element can only be cleaned a
maximum of four times. After cleaning, it has poorer dust
capacity than a new filter element.
3.
Mark the filter when it has been cleaned.
Cleaning the filter element
- Carefully blow the filter element clean using dry compressed air from
the inside.
Note:
This filter element must not be washed with water.
1.
Cover
2.
Filter element
3.
Filter house
Only use genuine Scania air
filters.
Renew the filter element if it is
damaged.
Danger of engine damage if the
filter element is damaged.
Never start the engine without
the air filter.
There is a risk of injury or
engine damage.
1
2
3
The coarse cleaner must always
be fitted in an upright position.
1.
Filter element
2.
Coarse cleaner
3.
Cover
4.
Vacuum indicator
4
3
2
1
Important
!
Important
!
WARNING
!
43
Check
- Insert a torch into the element and check from the outside that there are
no holes or cracks in the filter paper.
- Renew the filter element if it has the slightest damage. Danger of engine
damage.
Assembly
1.
Assemble the air cleaner in reverse order.
2.
Reset the vacuum indicator by pressing the button.
11. Every 2,400 hours:
Changing safety cartridge
Note:
Not all filters are equipped with a safety cartridge. When
changing the safety cartridge, take great care to ensure that no
dirt or other impurities can get into the engine.
1.
Remove the cover from the air cleaner.
2.
Remove the filter element.
3.
Remove the safety cartridge.
4.
Fit a new genuine Scania safety cartridge.
5.
Renew or clean the filter element, see point 10.
6.
Assemble the air cleaner.
1. Safety cartridge
Air cleaner with safety cartridge
1
Do not remove the safety
cartridge unnecessarily.
Important
!
Never clean the
safety cartridge.
Important
!
44
Fuel system
12. Daily:
Checking fuel level
- Top up with fuel if necessary.
- If the tank has been run dry, bleed the fuel system, see point 13.
13. Every 1,200 hours:
Renewing the fuel filter
Fuel tanks
- Drain any water from the fuel tanks.
Filter
The filter consists of a filter unit.
- Wash the outside of the filter and unscrew it. Discard the filter according
to environmental requirements.
- Fit the new filter and tighten it by hand.
Never use tools for this. The filter could sustain damage, obstructing
circulation.
- Bleed the fuel system as described below.
- Start the engine and check for leaks.
Water separating filter
- Drainage must be carried out when filling fuel.
- The filter must be changed at the same renewal interval as the main
filter.
- Close the cock (1) upstream of the filter.
- Unscrew the container and drain valve (3).
- Unscrew and change the filter (2). Lubricate the seal before tightening
the new filter by hand.
- Screw the container and drain valve into position.
- Open the cock (1).
- Bleed the fuel system after renewing both filters.
Use a container to avoid spillage
when bleeding and renewing
components.
Use only genuine Scania fuel
filters.
1.
Shut-off cock
2.
Filter
3.
Drain valve
Observe the utmost cleanliness
when working on the fuel
system.
There is a risk of engine
malfunction and damage to the
injection equipment.
Important
!
Important
!
Help protect our
environment!
45
Bleeding the fuel system
- Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple (1) to channel fuel into a
container. The bleed nipple is located at the end of the fuel manifold at
the front of the engine.
- Open the bleed nipple.
- Pump the hand pump (2) until fuel without air bubbles flows out of the
opened bleed nipple.
• If the system is completely empty, it will take approximately
250 strokes.
• After renewing the fuel filter, it will take approximately 170 strokes.
• Approximately 150 strokes are required to bleed the fuel manifold.
- Close the bleed nipple and remove the hose.
- Undo the banjo screw for overflow valve (3) slightly. Pump the hand
pump an additional 20 strokes until the overflow valve opens.
If the engine fails to start after bleeding:
- Open the bleed nipple again and pump the hand pump until fuel
without air bubbles flows out.
- Tighten the bleed nipple. Start the engine and check for leaks.
1
2
3
Use a container to avoid spillage
when bleeding and renewing
components.
Help protect our
environment!
46
Electrical system
14. Every 200 hours:
Checking the electrolyte level in
batteries
1.
Unscrew the plugs and check the electrolyte level in all cells.
2.
Top up with distilled water until the level is 10-15 mm above the plates.
15. Every 1,200 hours:
Checking state of charge in batteries
- Check the density with an acid tester.
In a fully-charged battery it should be:
1.280 at +20°C
1.294 at 0°C
1.308 at -20°C
- If the density is below 1.20, the battery must be charged. A discharged
battery freezes at -5°C.
Do not boost charge the battery. This will damage the battery in the
long run.
16. Every 1,200 hours:
Cleaning batteries
1.
Clean batteries, cables and cable terminals.
2.
Check that all cable terminals are firmly tightened.
3.
Grease the battery terminal posts and cable terminals with Vaseline.
Wear gloves and protective
goggles when charging and
handling batteries.
The batteries contain a highly
corrosive acid.
Do not connect the terminals
incorrectly.
This can cause serious damage
to the electrical system.
If the terminals are shorted,
sparking will occur.
Avoid naked flames or sparks
near the batteries.
When the batteries are charged,
oxyhydrogen gas is formed
which is flammable and
explosive.
WARNING
!
WARNING
!
WARNING
!
47
Renewing the battery
Removing
1.
Disconnect the negative cable (-) from the battery (cable connected to
earth).
2.
Disconnect the positive cable (+) from the battery (cable connected to
starter motor).
Fitting
1.
Connect the positive cable (+) to the battery (cable connected to starter
motor).
2.
Connect the negative cable (-) to the battery (cable connected to earth).
17. Every 1,200 hours:
Checking coolant level monitor
(Optional equipment)
1.
Start the engine.
2.
Lower the coolant level in the expansion tank.
3.
Automatic stop in the event of a fault: The engine stops, the indicator
lamp comes on and the buzzer (if fitted) sounds if there is no fault in the
level monitor. If the function is connected via the coordinator, the
emergency stop fault code will be generated and can be read off on the
diagnostics lamp.
4.
No automatic stop in the event of a fault: The indicator lamp comes on
and the buzzer (if fitted) sounds if there is no fault in the level monitor.
5.
Top up coolant to the correct level, see page 36.
Do not connect the terminals
incorrectly.
This can cause serious damage
to the electrical system.
If the terminals are shorted,
sparking will occur.
Dispose of used batteries
through an authorised waste
disposal contractor.
2-pin level monitor installed in the
expansion tank for radiators
supplied by Scania
Use a container to avoid spills
when draining the coolant.
Dispose of used coolant through
an authorised waste disposal
contractor.
WARNING
!
Help protect our
environment!
Help protect our
environment!
48
+ -
Miscellaneous
18. Every 1,200 hours:
Checking drive belt
- If the drive belt (1), which is a poly-V belt, is worn or damaged it must
be renewed.
- Also check that the automatic belt tensioner (2) is in proper working
order and keeps the drive belt correctly tensioned.
- On installations with dual belt circuits, the second belt circuit has two
drive belts with one manual belt tensioner. These drive belts should be
tensioned to 20 Nm ±2 Nm as illustrated.
Нет комментариевНе стесняйтесь поделиться с нами вашим ценным мнением.
Текст