Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual — part 9

pleated-paper type filter, it cannot be washed
or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned
satisfactorily with compressed air, discard
and renew it.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the element and
housing are securely seated, so that unfiltered
air cannot enter the passenger compartment.

Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, or of
similar quality, the coolant need not be
renewed for the life of the vehicle. If the
vehicle’s history is unknown, if antifreeze of
lesser quality is known to be in the system, or
simply if you prefer to follow conventional
servicing intervals, the coolant should be
changed periodically (typically, every 2 years)
as described here. Refer also to the
information in Section 2 of this Chapter.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin
or painted surfaces of the

vehicle. Flush contaminated areas
immediately with plenty of water. Don’t
store new coolant, or leave old coolant
lying around, where it’s accessible to
children or pets - they’re attracted by its
sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small
amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up
garage-floor and drip-pan spills
immediately. Keep antifreeze containers
covered, and repair cooling system leaks
as soon as they’re noticed.

Warning: Never remove the
expansion tank filler cap when
the engine is running, or has just

been switched off, as the cooling system
will be hot, and the consequent escaping
steam and scalding coolant could cause
serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the
expansion tank filler cap (see Section 3).
2 If the additional working clearance is
required, raise the front of the vehicle and
support it securely on axle stands.
3 Remove the radiator undershield (eight or
nine screws), then place a large drain tray
underneath, and unscrew the radiator drain
plug; direct as much of the escaping coolant
as possible into the tray (see illustrations).

System flushing

4 With time, the cooling system may
gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator
core becomes choked with rust, scale
deposits from the water, and other sediment
(refer also to the information at the start of
Section 2). To minimise this, as well as using
only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft
water, the system should be flushed as
follows whenever any part of it is disturbed,
and/or when the coolant is renewed.
5 With the coolant drained, refit the drain plug
and refill the system with fresh water. Refit the
expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and
warm it up to normal operating temperature,
then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down
completely) drain the system again. Repeat as
necessary until only clean water can be seen
to emerge, then refill finally with the specified
coolant mixture.
6 If only clean, soft water and good-quality
antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification)
has been used, and the coolant has been
renewed at the suggested intervals, the above
procedure will be sufficient to keep clean the
system for a considerable length of time. If,

however, the system has been neglected, a
more thorough operation will be required, as
follows.
7 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the
radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a
garden hose into the top hose, and allow
water to circulate through the radiator until it
runs clean from the bottom outlet.
8 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose
into the thermostat water outlet, and allow
water to circulate until it runs clear from the
bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the
water still does not run clear, the radiator
should be flushed with a good proprietary
cleaning agent.
9 In severe cases of contamination, reverse-
flushing of the radiator may be necessary. To
do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert
it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom
outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs
from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure
can be used to flush the heater matrix.
10 The use of chemical cleaners should be
necessary only as a last resort. Normally,
regular renewal of the coolant will prevent
excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

11 With the cooling system drained and
flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions

28 Coolant renewal

1•21

1

28.3A Remove the screws (arrowed) and

withdraw the radiator undershield . . .

28.3B . . . to unscrew the radiator drain

plug (arrowed) and empty the cooling

system. Try to protect yourself from

coolant splashing into your eyes or onto

your skin, catching as much of it as

possible in the drain tray

27.3 Remove screws (arrowed) to release

cowl grille panel . . .

27.5A . . . release clips to lift out pollen

filter housing . . .

27.5B . . . then withdraw pollen filter

element

Every 20 000 miles

are correctly secured, and that the radiator
drain plug is securely tightened. Refit the
radiator undershield, noting that it is located
by three clips at its front edge; tighten the
retaining screws securely (see illustration). If
it was raised, lower the vehicle to the ground.
12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the
specified coolant mixture (see below); allow
for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply
for topping-up.
13 Slowly fill the system through the
expansion tank; since the tank is the highest
point in the system, all the air in the system
should be displaced into the tank by the rising
liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of
air being trapped and forming air-locks.
14 Continue filling until the coolant level
reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line,
then cover the filler opening to prevent
coolant splashing out.
15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed,
until it has warmed-up to normal operating
temperature and the radiator electric cooling
fan has cut in; watch the temperature gauge
to check for signs of overheating. If the level in
the expansion tank drops significantly, top-up
to the “MAX” level line, to minimise the
amount of air circulating in the system.
16 Stop the engine, allow it to cool down
completely (overnight, if possible), then
uncover the expansion tank filler opening and
top-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refit
the filler cap, tightening it securely, and wash

off any spilt coolant from the engine
compartment and bodywork.
17 After refilling, always check carefully all
components of the system (but especially any
unions disturbed during draining and flushing)
for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has
a searching action, which will rapidly expose
any weak points in the system.
18 Note: If, after draining and refilling the
system, symptoms of overheating are found
which did not occur previously, then the fault
is almost certainly due to trapped air at some
point in the system, causing an air-lock and
restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air
is trapped because the system was refilled too
quickly. In some cases, air-locks can be
released by tapping or squeezing the various
hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine
and allow it to cool down completely, before
unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or
disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped
air.

Antifreeze mixture

19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’s
specification, it should always be renewed at
the suggested intervals. This is necessary not
only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but
also to prevent the corrosion which would
otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors
become progressively less effective. Always
use an ethylene glycol-based antifreeze which
is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling
systems.
20 If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s
specification, the levels of protection it affords
are indicated in the Specifications Section of
this Chapter. To give the recommended
standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40%
(by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with
60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any
other type of antifreeze, follow its
manufacturer’s manuals to achieve the
correct ratio. It is best to make up slightly
more than the system’s specified capacity, so
that a supply is available for subsequent
topping-up.
21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for

condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh
antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in
the system.
22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used,
and the date installed. Any subsequent
topping-up should be made with the same
type and concentration of antifreeze. If
topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s
specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is
permissible, purely for convenience.
23 Do not use engine antifreeze in the
windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A screen
wash additive should be added to the washer
system in its maker’s recommended
quantities.

General cooling system checks

24 The engine should be cold for the cooling
system checks, so perform the following
procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it
has been shut off for at least three hours.
25 Remove the expansion tank filler cap (see
Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and
out with a rag. Also clean the filler neck on the
expansion tank. The presence of rust or
corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the
coolant should be changed. The coolant
inside the expansion tank should be relatively
clean and transparent. If it is rust- coloured,
drain and flush the system, and refill with a
fresh coolant mixture.
26 Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length; renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated (see Section 12).
27 Inspect all other cooling system
components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak
in the cooling system will usually show up as
white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
28 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft
brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc,
embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not
to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers
on them.

1•22

28.11 Ensure radiator undershield is

located securely in three clips at front

edge (arrowed) when refitting

Every 30 000 miles

Every 30 000 miles or 3 years

1 The air filter element is located in the air
cleaner assembly on the left-hand side of the
engine compartment. Release the clips, and
lift the air cleaner cover (see illustrations). If
the additional working clearance is required,
unclip the cover from the air mass meter, and
withdraw it completely.
2 Lift out the element, and wipe out the

housing (see illustration). Check that no
foreign matter is visible, either in the air intake
or in the air mass meter.
3 If carrying out a routine service, the element
must be renewed regardless of its apparent
condition; note that the small foam filter in the
rear right-hand corner of the air cleaner
housing must be cleaned whenever the air
filter element is renewed (see Section 30).
4 If you are checking the element for any
other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is
oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is
only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by

blowing it clean from the upper to the lower
surface with compressed air. Because it is a
pleated-paper type filter, it cannot be washed
or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned
satisfactorily with compressed air, discard
and renew it.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
Caution: Never drive the vehicle
with the air cleaner filter element

removed. Excessive engine wear could
result, and backfiring could even cause a
fire under the bonnet.

29 Air filter element renewal

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the element and cover
are securely seated, so that unfiltered air
cannot enter the engine.

1 The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
system components are located at the front of
the engine, underneath the exhaust manifold
and air intake resonator. Refer to Chapter 6
for further information.
2 Check that all components of the system
are securely fastened, correctly routed (with
no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in
sound condition; renew any worn or damaged
components.
3 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the
various hoses and pipes, and check that all
are clear and unblocked. Remove the air
cleaner assembly cover, air mass meter and
resonator, then check that the hose from the
cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing
is clear and undamaged. Disconnect the
rubber T-piece both from the union on the
inlet manifold left-hand end, and from the
metal crankcase breather pipe under the
ignition coil. Connect a spare, clean, length of
hose to the breather pipe. Suck on the end of
the hose, then blow through it - little or no

restriction to airflow should be felt in either
direction. A similar test can be applied to
check that the inlet manifold passages are
clear - air should be heard hissing out of the
plenum chamber mouth as you blow.
4 The PCV valve is designed to allow gases
to flow out of the crankcase only, so that a
depression is created in the crankcase under
most operating conditions, particularly at idle.
Therefore, if either the oil separator or the PCV
valve are thought to be blocked, they must be
renewed (see Chapter 6). In such a case,
however, there is nothing to be lost by
attempting to flush out the blockage using a
suitable solvent. The PCV valve should rattle
when shaken.
5 While the air filter element is removed (see
Section 29), wipe out the housing, and
withdraw the small foam filter from its location
in the rear right-hand corner of the housing
(see illustration). If the foam is badly clogged
with dirt or oil, it must be cleaned by soaking it
in a suitable solvent, and allowed to dry
before being refitted.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full
performance and proper economy of the
engine that the spark plugs perform with
maximum efficiency. The most important
factor in ensuring this is that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine. The suitable
type is given in the Specifications Section at
the beginning of this Chapter, on the Vehicle
Emissions Control Information (VECI) label
located on the underside of the bonnet (only
on models sold in some areas) or in the
vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If these sources
specify different plugs, purchase the spark
plug type specified on the VECI label (where
appropriate), as that information is provided
specifically for your engine. If this type is used
and the engine is in good condition, the spark
plugs should not need attention between
scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug
cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not

be attempted unless specialised equipment is
available, as damage can easily be caused to
the firing ends.
2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a
spark plug socket, with an extension which
can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar.
This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to
protect the porcelain insulator of the spark
plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it
into the spark plug hole. You will also need a
wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust
the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque
wrench to tighten the new plugs to the
specified torque (see illustration).
3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the
bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the
top of the engine. Note how the spark plug
(HT) leads are routed and secured by clips
along the channel in the cylinder head cover.

31 Spark plug renewal

30 Positive Crankcase

Ventilation (PCV) system
check and filter cleaning

1•23

1

30.5 The Positive Crankcase Ventilation

(PCV) system filter in the air cleaner

assembly must be cleaned whenever the

air filter element is renewed

31.2 Tools required for changing spark

plugs

1 Spark plug socket - This will have special
padding inside, to protect the spark plug
porcelain insulator
2 Torque wrench - Although not essential,
use of this tool is the best way to ensure that
the plugs are tightened properly
3 Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the
plug socket
4 Extension - Depending on the other tools
available, you may need an extension to reach
the plugs
5 Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for
checking the gap comes in a variety of styles.
Make sure the gap for your engine is included

29.1A Release the wire clips to detach the

cover from the air cleaner assembly . . .

29.1B . . . noting the long clip normally

hidden by the battery . . .

29.2 . . . lift the element out of the housing,

and wipe out its interior before fitting the

new element

Every 30 000 miles

To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark
plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work
on one spark plug at a time.
4 If the marks on the original-equipment
spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark
the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder
the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing
belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the
plugs by gripping the rubber boot sealing the

cylinder head cover opening, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
5 It is advisable to soak up any water in the
spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove
any dirt from them using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or
water from dropping into the cylinders.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

1•24

Every 30 000 miles

Specifications

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion C148

Cooling system

Coolant protection at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

-25°C (-13°F)

Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

-30°C (-22°F)

Coolant specific gravity at 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio and
15°C/59°F - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.061

Fuel system

Idle speed - nominal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

830 ± 50 rpm*

Air filter element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion U618

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion L218

* Note: Given for reference only - not adjustable.

Ignition system

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)

Spark plugs:*

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion RE7YCC

Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion type not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to
their manufacturer’s recommendations

Braking system

Note: No minimum lining thicknesses are given by Ford - the following is given as a general recommendation. If the pad wear warning light
comes on before the front brake pad linings reach the minimum thickness, the pads should nevertheless be renewed immediately.
Minimum front or rear brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.5 mm

Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm

Suspension and steering

Tyre pressures (cold):

Front

Rear

Normally laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bars (31 psi)

2.1 bars (31 psi)

Fully laden* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.4 bars (35 psi)

2.8 bars (41 psi)

Note: Normally laden means up to 3 persons. For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary.
Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper blades

Windscreen:

Driver’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion X 5303 (and SP 01 spoiler)

Passenger’s side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion X 5103

Tailgate:

Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion X 5103

Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Champion type not available

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5 to 10

4 to 7

Auxiliary drivebelt automatic tensioner Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35

26

Radiator undershield screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

5

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11