Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual — part 16

3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 16). Grease
the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease
installation.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-093A, with the
crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into
place; an alternative can be arranged using a
socket of suitable size, with a washer to
match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see
illustration).
6 If such tools are not available, press the
seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in until
it is flush with the pump housing, using a soft-
faced mallet and a socket with an outside
diameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s
(see illustration). This approach requires
great care, to ensure that the seal is fitted
squarely, without distortion or damage.
7 Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder of
reassembly is the reverse of the removal
procedure, referring to the relevant text for
details where required. Check for signs of oil
leakage when the engine is restarted.

Left-hand seal

8 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
9 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 8).
10 Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (see
Section 21).

11 Remove the sump (see Section 15).
12 Unbolt the oil seal carrier (see
illustration). Remove and discard its gasket.
13 Supporting the carrier evenly on wooden
blocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier
from behind (see illustration).
14 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place. Clean also the mating surfaces of the
cylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using a
scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket
- be careful not to scratch or damage the
material of either - then use a suitable solvent
to degrease them.
15 Use grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, then
offer up the carrier (see illustration).
16 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the carrier is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft. Being careful not to disturb the
gasket, move the carrier into the correct
position, and tighten its bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting (see illustration).
17 Check that the carrier is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the carrier is
correctly aligned.
18 Ford’s recommended method of seal
fitting is to use service tool 21-141, with two

flywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. If
this is not available, make up a guide from a
thin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate the
lips of the new seal and the crankshaft
shoulder with grease, then offer up the seal,
with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over the
crankshaft shoulder (see illustration). Press
the seal evenly into its housing by hand only,
and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap it
into place until it is flush with the surrounding
housing.
19 Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; the
remainder of the reassembly procedure is the
reverse of dismantling, referring to the
relevant text for details where required.
Check for signs of oil leakage when the
engine is restarted.

In-car engine repair procedures 2A•23

2A

20.15 Use new gasket when refitting left-

hand oil seal carrier

20.16 Check the oil seal carrier is correctly

positioned

20.18 Using guide made from thin sheet of

plastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft

shoulder

20.5 Socket of correct size can be used to

replace Ford service tool, drawing new

seal into place as described

20.6 If seal is tapped into place as shown,

exercise great care to prevent seal from

being damaged or distorted

20.12 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove

crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .

20.13 . . . and ensure that carrier is

properly supported when driving out used

oil seal - note notches provided in carrier

for drift

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7). Now is a good time to
check components such as oil seals and
renew them if necessary.
2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check or
renew the clutch components and pilot
bearing.
3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make
alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from
turning by locking the ring gear teeth, or by
bolting a strap between the flywheel/
driveplate and the cylinder block/
crankcase. Slacken the bolts evenly until all
are free.
5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission-equipped models only),
withdraw the flywheel/driveplate; do not drop
it - it is very heavy.

Inspection

7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 20) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,

clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft
speed/position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip,
and check that the sensor is securely
fastened.

Refitting

10 On refitting, ensure that the
engine/transmission adaptor plate is in place
(where necessary), then fit the
flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft so that
all bolt holes align - it will fit only one way -
check this using the marks made on removal.
Do not forget the reinforcing plate (where
fitted).
11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting (see
illustration).
12 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.

General

1 The engine/transmission mountings
seldom require attention, but broken or
deteriorated mountings should be renewed
immediately, or the added strain placed on
the driveline components may cause damage
or wear.
2 While separate mountings may be removed
and refitted individually, if more than one is
disturbed at a time - such as if the

engine/transmission unit is removed from its
mountings - they must be reassembled and
their fasteners tightened in a strict sequence.
3 On reassembly, the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be taken
by the mountings until all are correctly
aligned. Fitting the Ford service tool in place
of the front mounting, tighten the
engine/transmission mounting fasteners to
their specified torque wrench settings, and in
the sequence described in Part B of this
Chapter, Section 4, paragraphs 49 and 50.

Inspection

4 During the check, the engine/transmission
unit must be raised slightly, to remove its
weight from the mountings.
5 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Position a jack under
the sump, with a large block of wood
between the jack head and the sump, then
carefully raise the engine/transmission just
enough to take the weight off the mountings.

Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it is supported only by a
jack!

6 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes the rubber
will split right down the centre.
7 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

Front mounting

8 Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember,
slacken the two clamp screws securing the

22 Engine/transmission

mountings -
inspection and renewal

21 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

2A•24 In-car engine repair procedures

21.11 Note method used to lock

flywheel/driveplate while (new) bolts are

tightened

22.8 Engine/transmission front mounting - manual transmission shown, automatic

equivalent similar

1 Transmission

3 Mounting

5 Mounting centre bolt

2 Mounting bracket

4 Front suspension subframe

resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chapter
4). Unbolt the pulse-air filter housing from the
mounting bracket, then unfasten the

bolts/nuts securing the mounting to the
subframe, unscrew the centre bolt and
withdraw the mounting; note the location of
the wiring connector bracket. The mounting’s
bracket can be unbolted from the
transmission if required (see illustration).
9 On refitting, ensure that the mounting-to-
transmission bolts are securely tightened,
then refit the mounting and wiring connector
bracket. Tighten first the mounting-to-
subframe bolts/nuts, noting that these are to
be tightened in two stages to the final
specified torque wrench setting. Finally
tighten the mounting’s centre bolt, again to
the specified torque wrench setting.

Right-hand mounting

10 Unscrew the nuts and withdraw the
bracket; note that these nuts are self-locking,
and must therefore be renewed whenever

they are disturbed. Unbolt the mounting from
the body (see illustration).
11 Where hydraulic-type mountings are
fitted - there are only five nuts securing the
bracket, and the mounting is clearly
identifiable from its shape - take care never to
tilt these more than 5° from the vertical (see
illustration).
12 On refitting, renew the self-locking nuts,
and tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings specified. When tightening the nuts,
tighten first the four bracket-to-engine nuts,
then release the hoist or jack to allow the
engine/transmission’s weight to rest on the
mounting. Do not allow the mounting to twist
as the last two of the nuts are tightened (see
illustration).

Left-hand mounting

13 Unplugging the two electrical connectors,
disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted)
and disconnecting the crankcase breather
hose from the cylinder head cover, remove
the complete air cleaner assembly with the air
mass meter, the resonator and the plenum
chamber (see Chapter 4).
14 Unscrew the three nuts to release the
mounting from the transmission, then unbolt
it from the body (see illustration). Note that

In-car engine repair procedures 2A•25

2A

22.14 Engine/transmission left-hand

mounting - manual transmission shown,

automatic equivalent similar

1 Mounting bracket
2 Mounting
3 Transmission
4 Studs
5 Fastening plate - where fitted

22.12 When reassembling

engine/transmission right-hand mounting,

tighten nuts “A” first, release lifting

equipment, then tighten remaining

nuts “B” - do not allow mounting to twist

when doing so

22.15 Engine/transmission left-hand

mounting is secured by self-locking nuts
“A” to transmission, by bolts “B” to body

22.16 Where vehicle is fitted with

automatic transmission, additional damper

may be fastened to underside of engine/

transmission rear mounting, as shown

22.10 Engine/transmission right-hand

mounting - standard type

1 Bracket
2 Mounting
3 Brackets bolted to cylinder block/crankcase
4 Vehicle body

22.11 Engine/transmission right-hand

mounting - hydraulic type (where fitted)

1 Bracket
2 Hydraulic mounting
3 Brackets bolted to cylinder block/crankcase
4 Vehicle body

the nuts are self-locking, and must therefore
be renewed whenever they are disturbed.
Unscrew the centre bolt to dismantle the
mounting, if necessary to renew components.
15 On refitting, renew the self-locking nuts,
and do not allow the mounting to twist as the
nuts are tightened (see illustration). Tighten
all fasteners to the specified torque wrench
settings.

Rear mounting

16 Where the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, a separate damper may be
fitted beneath the subframe, which must be
unbolted to reach the mounting’s fasteners
(see illustration).
17 Unbolt the mounting from the subframe,
then unscrew the mounting’s centre bolt. If
required, unbolt the mounting’s bracket from

the transmission (see illustrations).
18 On refitting, ensure that the mounting-to-
transmission bolts are securely tightened,
then refit the mounting. Tighten first the
mounting-to-subframe bolts, noting that
these are to be tightened in two stages to the
final specified torque wrench setting. Finally
tighten the mounting’s centre bolt, again to
the specified torque wrench setting.

2A•26 In-car engine repair procedures

22.17A Engine/transmission rear mounting -

manual transmission type

1 Transmission

4 Mounting

2 Mounting bracket

5 Mounting centre bolt

3 Front suspension subframe

22.17B Engine/transmission rear mounting - automatic transmission type

1 Transmission

3 Mounting

5 Mounting centre bolt

2 Mounting bracket

4 Front suspension subframe