Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual — part 6

wear indicators, the mark being TWI, an
arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s symbol (see
illustration). Tread wear can also be
monitored with a simple inexpensive device
known as a tread depth indicator gauge (see
illustration).
3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter

for pressures). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, and not immediately after
the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures
are checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-
high reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstances should an
attempt be made to reduce the pressures to
the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result.

1•9

1

Tyre Tread Wear Patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation
(wear on both sides)
Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber
(wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension
parts

Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation
Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate
your car’s tyres to the higher
pressures specified for maximum
load or sustained high speed,
don’t forget to reduce the pres-
sures to normal afterwards.

Toe Wear

Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of

the tread which characterises

toe wear is best checked by

feel.

Uneven Wear

Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension
parts

Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension
parts

Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres

Out-of-round brake disc/drum
Machine or renew

4.2A The TWI mark on the side of the tyre

shows the position of the tread wear

indicator bands

4.2B A tyre tread depth indicator should

be used to monitor tyre wear - they are

available at accessory shops and service

stations, and cost very little

Weekly checks

Most garage forecourts have a
pressure line which combines a gauge
to check and adjust the tyre pressures,
but they may vary in accuracy, due to
general misuse and abuse. It therefore
pays to carry a good-quality tyre
pressure gauge in the vehicle, to make
the regular checks required and ensure
pressure accuracy.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of
front wheel alignment and/or balance
problems. If any of these conditions are
noted, they should be rectified as soon as
possible.

5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a consequent loss of
adhesion and excessive wear, not to mention
the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat
build-up.
6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the

centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the
danger of damage occurring in the tyre
casing.
7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones
embedded in the tread, before they penetrate

the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail
reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit
the nail, so that its point of penetration is
marked. Then immediately change the wheel,
and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do
not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any
doubt as to the possible consequences of any
damage found, consult your local tyre dealer
for advice.
8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear; however, it is
worth bearing in mind that if this is completely
effective, the added expense is incurred of
replacing simultaneously a complete set of
tyres, which may prove financially restrictive
for many owners.
9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. The front wheels should
always be correctly aligned according to the
settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.

10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for
condition and pressure.
11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located
on the right-hand rear corner of the engine
compartment.
2 For the fluid level check, the power steering
system should be at its normal operating
temperature, so it is best to carry out the
check after a run.
3 Position the vehicle on level ground, with

the front wheels pointing straight ahead, and
switch off the engine.
4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX”
mark on the reservoir (see illustration).
5 If topping-up is required, first use a clean
rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding
area, to prevent foreign matter from entering
the system. Unscrew and remove the filler
cap.
6 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using
the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of
this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not
to introduce dirt into the system, and do not
overfill. The need for frequent topping-up
indicates a leak, which should be
investigated.
7 Refit the filler cap.

1 The windscreen wiper and blade assembly
should be inspected at the specified intervals
for damage, loose components, and cracked
or worn blade elements.
2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades
and affect their efficiency, so they should be
washed regularly with a mild detergent
solution.
3 The action of the wiping mechanism can
loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they
should be checked and tightened, as
necessary, at the same time as the wiper
blades are checked.
4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked,
worn or warped, or no longer clean
adequately, they should be replaced with new
ones.
5 Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the
glass.
6 To remove the windscreen wiper blade,
release the catch on the arm, then turn the
blade through 90° and withdraw the blade
from the end of the arm (see illustration).
7 To remove the tailgate wiper blade, push
the wiper blade forward, and at the same time
depress it against the spring pressure, then
withdraw it from the end of the arm (see
illustration).
8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in
good condition, it may be possible to renew
the rubber insert separately. The insert can be
obtained from a car accessory shop and,
according to type, it may need to be cut to the
correct length before sliding into the clips.
9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a
reversal of the removal procedure, making
sure that it fully engages with the spring clip.
10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid
onto the upper part of the
windscreen/tailgate/rear window/headlight,
and if necessary adjust the small sphere on
the jet with a pin.

6 Windscreen/tailgate washer

system and wiper blade check

5 Power steering fluid level

check

1•10

5.4 Power steering fluid reservoir,

showing “MAX” and “MIN” marks

5.6 Topping-up the power steering fluid

reservoir

6.7 Tailgate wiper blade removal

6.6 Releasing the catch to remove a

windscreen wiper blade

Weekly checks

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

1•11

1

7.4 Removing the automatic transmission

dipstick from its tube

7.6A “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the

dipstick

7.6B Adding automatic transmission fluid

through the dipstick tube

Every 10 000 miles

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is
160 to 175°F, the transmission is hot.

Caution: If the vehicle has just
been driven for a long time at
high speed or in city traffic in hot
weather, or if it has been pulling

a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading
cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
ranges three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the dipstick
from its tube (see illustration). Note the
condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on the
“MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the
specified automatic transmission fluid through
the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if
necessary (see illustrations). It is important
not to introduce dirt into the transmission
when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct.

8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid at the
end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-
brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the
fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt
about the condition of the fluid, purchase
some new fluid, and compare the two for
colour and smell.

1 Check the operation of all external lights
and indicators (front and rear).
2 Check for satisfactory operation of the
instrument panel, its illumination and warning
lights, the switches and their function lights.
3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.
4 Check all other electrical equipment for
satisfactory operation.
5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine
compartment for correct routing, and for any
signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.

Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when checking
and servicing the battery.
Hydrogen gas, which is highly

flammable, is always present in the battery
cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other
open flames and sparks away from the
battery. The electrolyte inside the battery
is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will
cause injury if splashed on your skin or in
your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and
painted surfaces. When disconnecting the
battery, always detach the negative (earth)
lead first and connect it last!
Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer
to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

9 Battery check, maintenance

and charging

8 Electrical system check

7 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

9.1 Tools and materials required for

battery maintenance

1 Face shield/safety goggles - When
removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic
particles can easily fly up into your eyes
2 Baking soda - A solution of baking soda
and water can be used to neutralise corrosion
3 Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on the
battery terminals will help prevent corrosion
4 Battery terminal/lead cleaner - This wire
brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of
corrosion from the battery terminals and lead
clamps
5 Treated felt washers - Placing one of
these on each terminal, directly under the
lead clamps, will help prevent corrosion
6 Puller - Sometimes the lead clamps are
very difficult to pull off the terminals, even
after the nut has been completely slackened.
This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off
the terminal without damage
7 Battery terminal/lead cleaner - Here is
another cleaning tool which is a slightly
different version of number 4 above, but does
the same thing
8 Rubber gloves - Another safety item to
consider when servicing the battery;
remember, that’s acid inside the battery!

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance
programme for the battery in your vehicle is
the only way to ensure quick and reliable
starts. Before performing any battery
maintenance, make sure that you have the
proper equipment necessary to work safely
around the battery (see illustration).
2 There are also several precautions that
should be taken whenever battery
maintenance is performed. Before servicing
the battery, always turn the engine and all
accessories off, and disconnect the lead from
the negative terminal of the battery - see
Chapter 5, Section 1.
3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which
is both flammable and explosive. Never create
a spark, smoke, or light a match around the
battery. Always charge the battery in a well-
ventilated area.
4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and
corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get
in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes.
Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses
when working near the battery. Keep children
away from the battery.
5 Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and lead clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic
cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s
not torn or damaged. It should completely

cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or
loose connections, cracks in the case or
cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Also check
the entire length of each lead for cracks and
frayed conductors.
6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits (see illustration)

is evident,

particularly around the terminals, the battery
should be removed for cleaning. Slacken the
lead clamp nuts with a spanner, being careful
to remove the negative (earth) lead first, and
slide them off the terminals (see illustration).
Then unscrew the hold-down clamp nuts,
remove the clamp, and lift the battery from the
engine compartment.
7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a
soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a
solution of warm water and baking soda.
Wash the terminals and the top of the battery
case with the same solution, but make sure
that the solution doesn’t get into the battery.
When cleaning the leads, terminals and
battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber
gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in
contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old
clothes too - even when diluted, sulphuric
acid splashed onto clothes will burn holes in
them. If the terminals have been extensively
corroded, clean them up with a terminal
cleaner (see illustrations). Thoroughly wash
all cleaned areas with plain water.
8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition and the hold-down clamp nuts are
tight (see illustration). If the battery is

removed from the tray, make sure no parts
remain in the bottom of the tray when the
battery is refitted. When refitting the
hold-down clamp nuts, do not overtighten
them.
9 Information on removing and installing the
battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information
on jump starting can be found at the front of
this manual. For more detailed battery
checking procedures, refer to the Haynes
Automobile Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.

Cleaning

10 Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a
zinc-based primer, then painted.

Charging

Warning: When batteries are
being charged, hydrogen gas,
which is very explosive and
flammable, is produced. Do not

smoke, or allow open flames, near a
charging or a recently-charged battery.
Wear eye protection when near the battery
during charging. Also, make sure the
charger is unplugged before connecting or
disconnecting the battery from the
charger.
12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in winter, when the
battery must work harder to start the engine,
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.
13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest, and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher-

1•12

9.6A Battery terminal corrosion usually

appears as light, fluffy powder

9.6B Removing a lead from the battery

terminal - always remove the earth lead

first, and connect it last!

9.7A When cleaning the lead clamps, all

corrosion must be removed - the inside of

the clamp is tapered to match the terminal,

so don’t remove too much material

9.7B Regardless of the method used to

clean the terminals, a clean, shiny surface

should result

9.8 Make sure the battery hold-down nuts

(arrowed) are tight

Every 10 000 miles