Ford Mondeo (petrol engines). Manual — part 66

REF•4

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and manuals. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets

When separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the mating

faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned

with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes

are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.

Oil seals

Oil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its

working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily

damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surface

which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be

fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the

appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings

Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking two

nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accept

a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or bolt

to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder

head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

Any fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.

Spring or split washers should always be

renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-

critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.

Split pins must always be replaced with

new ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is found

on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.

Special tools

Some repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerations

When disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.

With the universal tightening-up of

legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

General Repair Procedures

Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from many

sources; for example, Ford garages, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare part
sources is as follows.

Officially-appointed Ford garages - This is

the best source for parts which are peculiar to
your vehicle, and which are not generally
available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal
transmission components, badges, interior
trim etc). It is also the only place at which you
should buy parts if the vehicle is still under
warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct
parts, it will be necessary to give the storeman
the full Vehicle Identification Number, and if
possible, to take the old parts along for
positive identification. Many parts are
available under a factory exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean. It
obviously makes good sense to go straight to
the specialists on your vehicle for this type of
part, as they are best equipped to supply you.

Other garages and accessory shops - These

are often very good places to buy materials
and components needed for the maintenance
of your vehicle (eg oil filters, spark plugs,
bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases, touch-up
paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general
accessories, usually have convenient opening
hours, charge lower prices, and can often be
found not far from home.

Motor factors - Good factors will stock all

the more important components which wear
out comparatively quickly (eg exhaust
systems, brake pads, seals and hydraulic
parts, clutch components, bearing shells,
pistons, valves etc). Motor factors will often
provide new or reconditioned components on
a part-exchange basis - this can save a
considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers

Modifications are a continuing and

unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the appropriate identification
number or code being essential to correct
identification of the component concerned.

When ordering spare parts, always give as

much information as possible. Quote the
vehicle model, year of manufacture, Vehicle
Identification Number and engine numbers, as
appropriate.

The vehicle identification plate is located on

the engine compartment front crossmember
(see illustration). In addition to many other
details, it carries the Vehicle Identification
Number, maximum vehicle weight
information, and codes for interior trim and
body colours.

The Vehicle Identification Number is given

on the vehicle identification plate. It is also
stamped on the engine compartment
bulkhead, behind the air intake plenum
chamber, and into the body, so that it can be
seen through the bottom left-hand corner of
the windscreen (see illustrations).

The engine number, consisting of two

letters and five digits, with the three-letter
engine code nearby, is stamped into a flat-
machined surface on the cylinder
block/crankcase’s forward-facing flange,
between the pulse-air filter housing and the
transmission. To read the number without
removing the engine compartment air intake
resonator - see Chapter 4 - it is easiest to
raise and support the front of the vehicle on
axle stands, so that the number can be seen
from underneath (see illustration). If the
number cannot be seen in this location,
possible alternative sites are on a lower flange
on the cylinder block’s forward face,
immediately above the sump mating surface,
or on the left-hand end of the cylinder head,
between the oil filler cap and ignition coil.

REF•5

Vehicle identification plate on engine

compartment front crossmember

Vehicle identification number in body,

visible through bottom left-hand corner of

windscreen

Vehicle identification number on engine

compartment bulkhead

Engine number (arrowed) on front of

cylinder block/crankcase - seen from

beneath vehicle

Spare Parts/Vehicle Identification

REF•6

Fault Finding

Engine

1

m

m

Engine backfires

m

m

Engine difficult to start when cold

m

m

Engine difficult to start when hot

m

m

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start

m

m

Engine hesitates on acceleration

m

m

Engine idles erratically

m

m

Engine lacks power

m

m

Engine misfires at idle speed

m

m

Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range

m

m

Engine noises

m

m

Engine rotates but will not start

m

m

Engine runs-on after switching off

m

m

Engine stalls

m

m

Engine starts but stops immediately

m

m

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running

m

m

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement

Cooling system

2

m

m

Corrosion

m

m

External coolant leakage

m

m

Internal coolant leakage

m

m

Overcooling

m

m

Overheating

Fuel and exhaust systems

3

m

m

Excessive fuel consumption

m

m

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

m

m

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour

Clutch

4

m

m

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)

m

m

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase
in vehicle speed)

m

m

Judder as clutch is engaged

m

m

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

m

m

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance

Manual transmission

5

m

m

Jumps out of gear

m

m

Lubricant leaks

m

m

Noisy in neutral with engine running

m

m

Noisy in one particular gear

m

m

Vibration

Automatic transmission

6

m

m

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral

m

m

Fluid leakage

m

m

General gear selection problems

m

m

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell

m

m

Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or
has no drive in forward or reverse gears

m

m

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator fully depressed

Driveshafts

7

m

m

Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)

m

m

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

Braking system

8

m

m

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

m

m

Brakes binding

m

m

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle

m

m

Excessive brake pedal travel

m

m

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking

m

m

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied

m

m

Rear wheels locking under normal braking

m

m

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking

Suspension and steering systems

9

m

m

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking

m

m

Excessive play in steering

m

m

Excessively-stiff steering

m

m

Lack of power assistance

m

m

Tyre wear excessive

m

m

Vehicle pulls to one side

m

m

Wandering or general instability

m

m

Wheel wobble and vibration

Electrical system

10

m

m

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days

m

m

Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

m

m

Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

m

m

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

m

m

Ignition warning light fails to come on

m

m

Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine running

m

m

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

m

m

Lights inoperative

m

m

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation

m

m

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation

REF•7

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start

m

m

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).

m

m

Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).

m

m

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).

m

m

Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).

m

m

Defective starter motor (Chapter 5).

m

m

Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chap-
ter 5).

m

m

Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).

m

m

Automatic transmission not in Park/Neutral position, or selector
lever position sensor faulty (Chapter 7, Part B).

Engine rotates but will not start

m

m

Fuel tank empty.

m

m

Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).

m

m

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).

m

m

Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).

m

m

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).

m

m

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

m

m

Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2, Part A).

Engine difficult to start when cold

m

m

Battery discharged (Chapter 5).

m

m

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).

m

m

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

m

m

Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).

m

m

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)

m

m

Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).

Engine difficult to start when hot

m

m

Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).

m

m

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)

m

m

Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).

m

m

Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement

m

m

Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chapter 5).

m

m

Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).

m

m

Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).

Engine starts but stops immediately

m

m

Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).

m

m

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)

m

m

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold (Chapters 1, 4 and 6).

Engine idles erratically

m

m

Idle speed control valve faulty (Chapter 4).

m

m

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)

m

m

Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).

m

m

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).

m

m

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

m

m

Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).

m

m

Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).

m

m

Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).

m

m

Timing belt incorrectly-tensioned (Chapter 2, Part A).

Engine misfires at idle speed

m

m

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

m

m

Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).

m

m

Idle speed control valve faulty (Chapter 4).

m

m

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapters 5 and 6).

m

m

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6)

m

m

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 4 and 6).

m

m

Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A).

m

m

Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A).

m

m

Disconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapters 1 and 6).

Fault Finding

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according

to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected
or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively
rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.

With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin

investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

The pages which follow provide an easy reference guide to the

more common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under

headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
principles apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know

what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is

there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical
fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the
test gear.

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a

fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying
cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again,
but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an
incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a

“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been
rattling around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components
out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or
recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll
probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

1 Engine

Introduction