Ford Orion. Manual — part 48

4 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
pistons, but do not inhale it, as it is a health
hazard. Inspect the dust cover around the
pistons for damage and for evidence of fluid
leaks, which if found will necessitate caliper
overhaul as described in Section 10. Inspect
the anti-rattle plate for corrosion, and if
necessary renew it.
5 If new brake pads are to fitted, the caliper
pistons will need to be pushed back into
their bores, to allow for the extra pad
thickness. Use a C-clamp or suitably-
protected screwdriver as a lever to do this.
Note that, as the pistons are pressed back,
they will displace the fluid in the system,
causing the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir to rise and possibly
overflow. To avoid this possibility, a small
quantity of fluid should be syphoned from
the reservoir. If any brake fluid is spilt onto
the bodywork, hoses or adjacent
components in the engine compartment,
wipe it clean without delay.
6 Prior to refitting, check that the pads and
the disc are clean. Where new pads are to be
installed, peel the protective backing paper
from them. If the old pads are to be refitted,
ensure that they are correctly located as
noted during their removal.
7 Locate the inner and outer brake pads into
position in the caliper, and refit the upper
retaining pin.
8 Locate the anti-rattle plate in position, and
refit the lower retaining pin.
9 Repeat the procedure on the opposite rear
brake assembly.
10 Before lowering the vehicle, check the
that the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir is up to the “Maximum”
level mark, and top-up with the specified
fluid type if required. Depress the brake
pedal a few times to position the pads
against the disc, then recheck the fluid level
in the reservoir and further top-up the fluid
level if necessary.
11 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
retaining nuts to the specified torque setting.
12 To allow the new brake pads to bed-in
and reach full efficiency, a running-in period
of approximately 100 miles or so should be
observed before hard use and heavy
braking.

10 Rear brake caliper - removal,

overhaul and refitting

4

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel.
2 Remove the rear brake pads as described
in Section 9.
3 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose leading to the rear brake caliper. This will
minimise brake fluid loss during subsequent
operations.
4 Loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the
union on the caliper end of the flexible brake
hose.
5 Undo the two caliper retaining bolts, and
withdraw the caliper from the disc (see
illustration).
6 Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the brake hose from turning with the
other hand. Unscrew the caliper from the
hose, making sure that the hose is not twisted
unduly or strained. Once the caliper is
detached, cover or plug the open hydraulic
unions to keep them clean.

Overhaul

7 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the
dust, as it is a health hazard.
8 Remove the pistons from their bores by
applying air pressure from a foot pump into
the caliper hydraulic fluid hose port. In the
event of a high-pressure air hose being used,
keep the pressure as low as possible, to avoid
the pistons being ejected too quickly and
being damaged. Any fluid remaining in the
caliper will probably be ejected with the
pistons.
9 Using a suitable hooked tool, carefully
extract the dust covers from their grooves in
the pistons, and the seals from their grooves
in the caliper bore, but take care not to
scratch or damage the pistons and/or the
bores in the caliper.
10 Clean all parts in methylated spirit or
clean brake fluid, and wipe dry using a clean
lint-free cloth. Inspect the pistons and caliper
bores for signs of damage, scuffing or
corrosion; if these conditions are evident,
renew the caliper assembly.
11 If the components are in satisfactory
condition, a repair kit which includes new
seals and dust covers must be obtained.
12 Lubricate the caliper bores and the seals
with clean brake fluid, and carefully fit the
seals in the caliper bore. Use the fingers only
(no tools) to manipulate them into position in
their grooves. When in position, check that
the seals are not distorted or twisted.
13 Locate the dust covers over the pistons
so that their inner diameters are engaged in
the piston grooves. Insert the pistons into the
caliper. Push the pistons into position in the

bore, and simultaneously press the dust
covers into the caliper so that they are seated
correctly. Take particular care not to distort or
damage the seals or dust cover as they are
fitted.

Refitting

14 Unplug the hydraulic hose, check that the
unions are clean, then reconnect the caliper to
the hose, reversing the disconnection
procedure so that the hose is not twisted or
strained. The hose union connection can be
fully tightened when the caliper is refitted.
15 Slide the caliper over the brake disc, and
secure with the two retaining bolts tightened
to the specified torque.
16 The brake hydraulic hose can now be fully
tightened. When secured, ensure that the
hose does not foul on the wheel arch or
suspension components.
17 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 9.
18 Top-up the hydraulic fluid level in the
reservoir, and bleed the brake circuit as
described in Section 17.
19 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, and then tighten the wheel nuts to
the specified torque setting.

11 Rear brake disc - inspection,

removal and refitting

2

Note: To prevent uneven braking, BOTH rear
brake discs should be renewed or reground at
the same time.

Inspection

1 Chock the front roadwheels, then jack up
the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear
roadwheel.
2 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 9, then undo the two brake caliper
retaining bolts. Withdraw the caliper from the
disc, and tie it up using string or wire from a
convenient location. Avoid straining the brake
hose.
3 Temporarily refit two of the wheel nuts to
diagonally-opposite studs, with the flat sides
of the nuts against the disc. Tighten the nuts
progressively, to hold the disc firmly.
4 Scrape any corrosion from the disc. Rotate
the disc, and examine it for deep scoring,
grooving or cracks. Using a micrometer,
measure the thickness of the disc in several
places. Light wear and scoring is normal, but
if excessive, the disc should be removed, and
either reground by a specialist, or renewed. If
regrinding is undertaken, the minimum
thickness must be maintained. Obviously, if
the disc is cracked, it must be renewed.
5 Using a dial gauge or a flat metal block and
feeler gauges, check that the disc run-out
10 mm from the outer edge does not exceed
the limit given in the Specifications. To do
this, fix the measuring equipment, and rotate

9•10 Braking system

10.5 Undo the two caliper retaining bolts

and withdraw the caliper from the disc

the disc, noting the variation in measurement
as the disc is rotated (see illustration 4.4).
The difference between the minimum and
maximum measurements recorded is the disc
run-out.
6 If the run-out is greater than the specified
amount, check for variations of the disc
thickness as follows. Mark the disc at eight
positions 45º apart, then using a micrometer,
measure the disc thickness at the eight
positions, 15 mm in from the outer edge. If the
variation between the minimum and maximum
readings is greater than the specified amount,
the disc should be renewed.

Removal

7 With the caliper removed as previously
described, remove the wheel nuts which were
temporarily refitted in paragraph 3.
8 Ensure that the handbrake is fully released,
then using a Torx-type socket bit or driver,
unscrew the screw securing the disc to the
hub and withdraw the disc. If it is tight, lightly
tap its rear face with a hide or plastic
mallet.

Refitting

9 Refit the disc in a reversal of the removal
sequence. If new discs are being fitted, first
remove their protective coating. Ensure
complete cleanliness of the hub and disc
mating faces, and tighten the screw securely.
10 Refit the caliper and secure with the
retaining bolts tightened to the specified
torque.
11 Refit the rear brake pads as described in
Section 9.
12 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.

12 Master cylinder -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the reservoir
filler cap, then remove the filler cap from the
reservoir. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. The reservoir should now be
emptied by syphoning or drawing out the fluid
with a pipette.
2 Identify each brake pipe and its connection
to the master cylinder (see illustration).
Unscrew the fluid line to master cylinder union
nuts and disconnect the fluid lines. On models
equipped with ABS, when disconnecting the
fluid return pipes from the reservoir, press the
retaining boss into the reservoir and pull free
the fluid line (see illustration). Plug the
connections and tape over the pipe ends, to
prevent the entry of dust and dirt.

3 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
the master cylinder from the servo unit.
4 If required, the master cylinder can be
dismantled for inspection and the seals
renewed as described in the following
Section.

Refitting

5 Before refitting the master cylinder, clean
the mounting faces.
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the vacuum servo unit seal is in position,
and tighten the master cylinder retaining nuts
to the specified torque wrench setting. Finally
bleed the hydraulic system as described in
Section 17.

13 Master cylinder -

inspection and overhaul

4

1 With the master cylinder removed, empty
any remaining fluid from it, and clean it
externally.

2 Secure the master cylinder in a vice fitted
with soft-faced jaws to avoid damaging the
cylinder.
3 Withdraw the hydraulic fluid reservoir from
the top of the master cylinder by pulling and
rocking it free from its retaining seals.
4 Extract the reservoir seals from the top face
of the master cylinder.
5 Extract the circlip from its groove in the
inner port at the rear of the master cylinder.
6 Pull free the primary piston from the rear
end of the master cylinder bore, together with
the spacer, seal and steel washer.
7 Extract the secondary piston assembly by
shaking or lightly tapping it free from the
cylinder (see illustration).
8 To dismantle the primary piston and to
remove its seal, undo the retaining screw and
detach the spring from the piston. Lever the
seal retainer tabs free using a suitable
screwdriver and remove the seal. As it is
removed, note the fitted direction of the seal
on the piston (see illustrations).
9 To dismantle the secondary piston, pull free
the spring (note its orientation), remove the

Braking system 9•11

12.2B Disconnecting the brake fluid return

pipes from the reservoir on ABS-equipped

models

12.2A Brake master cylinder and hydraulic

line connections

13.7 Exploded view of the master cylinder

A

Master cylinder
body

B Secondary piston

C Primary piston
D Steel washer
E

Seal

F

Plastic spacer

G Circlip

9

seal retainer using the same method as that
for the primary piston seal, and remove the
seal (noting its direction of fitting). Prise free
the seal from the other end of the secondary
piston, again noting its direction of fitting (see
illustration).
10 Wash all components of the cylinder in
methylated spirit or clean hydraulic brake fluid
of the specified type. Do not use any other
type of cleaning fluid.
11 Inspect the master cylinder and piston
assemblies for any signs of excessive wear or
damage. Deep scoring in the cylinder bore
and/or on the piston surfaces will necessitate
a new master cylinder being fitted.
12 If the cylinder is in a serviceable condition,
obtain a cylinder seals/repair kit. Once
removed, the seals must always be renewed.
13 Check that all components are perfectly
clean before they refitted. Smear them in new
brake fluid of the specified type as they are
assembled. Do not allow grease, old fluid or
any other lubricant to contact the components
during reassembly.
14 Reassemble each piston in the reverse
order of dismantling. Ensure that the seals are
correctly orientated, and that the retainers are
securely fitted.
15 Lubricate the pistons before refitting them

to the cylinder and as they are inserted, use a
twisting action to assist in pushing them into
position.
16 With the secondary and primary pistons in
position, fit the steel washer, a new seal, and
the spacer; secure them with the circlip.
Ensure that the circlip is fully engaged into its
retaining groove in the rear end of the
cylinder.
17 Refit the master cylinder, top-up the
reservoir with the specified fluid, and bleed
the brake hydraulic system (see Sections 12
and 17 for details).

14 Brake pedal -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Working inside the car, move the driver’s
seat fully to the rear, to allow maximum
working area.
3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
stop-light switch, then twist the switch and
release it from the mounting bracket.
4 Using a suitable hooked tool, extract the

circlip from the pedal cross-link (see
illustration).
5 Prise free and remove the retaining clip
securing the pedal-to-cross-link rod.
6 Press the brake pedal pivot shaft through
the mounting box just far enough the release
and remove the pedal and spacers.
7 Prise the bushes out from each side of the
brake pedal, and renew them if necessary
(see illustration).

Refitting

8 Prior to refitting, apply a small amount of
molybdenum disulphide grease to the brake
pedal pivot shaft.
9 Refit in the reverse order to removal. Ensure
that the pedal bushes are correctly located,
and that the pedal shaft “D” section locates in
the pedal box right-hand support.
10 On completion, refit the stop-light switch,
and adjust it as described in Chapter 12.

15 Brake pedal-to-servo

cross-link -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Remove the vacuum servo unit as
described in Section 18.
3 Where necessary, remove the air cleaner as
described in Chapter 4 to allow increased
access to the cross-link assembly.
4 Working inside the vehicle, prise free and
remove the retaining clip from the brake
pedal-to-cross-link pushrod.
5 Arrange for an assistant to support the
weight of the cross-link assembly on the
engine compartment side of the bulkhead.
Fold down the bulkhead trim covering in the
footwell on each side, to allow access to the
cross-link support bracket securing nuts on
the bulkhead. Unscrew the nuts on each side
of the bulkhead, and remove the cross-link

9•12 Braking system

A

Piston

B Shim
C Seal
D Seal retainer

E

Spring

F

Boot

G Retaining screw

A

Seal

B Piston
C Shim

D Seal
E

Seal retainer

F

Spring

A

Pivot shaft

B Spacer
C Bush

D Bush
E

Washer

F

Clip

14.7 Brake pedal components

14.4 Brake pedal-to-cross-link circlip (A)

and the brake pedal cross-link retaining

clip (B)

13.9 Secondary piston components

13.8B Primary piston components

13.8A Release the seal retainer tabs on

the primary piston

assembly from the bulkhead in the engine
compartment (see illustration).
6 Clean the linkage components, and
examine the bushes for excessive wear.
Renew the bushes if necessary (see
illustration).

Refitting

7 Refitting of the cross-link assembly is a
reversal of the removal procedure. Refer to
Section 18 to refit the vacuum servo unit.
8 Top-up the fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir, and bleed the brake hydraulic
system as described in Section 17.

16 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -

inspection, removal and
refitting

3

Inspection

1 Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and support on axle stands.
2 Check for signs of leakage at the pipe
unions, then examine the flexible hoses for
signs of cracking, chafing and fraying.
3 The brake pipes should be examined
carefully for signs of dents, corrosion or other
damage. Corrosion should be scraped off, and
if the depth of pitting is significant, the pipes
renewed. This is particularly likely in those
areas underneath the vehicle body where the
pipes are exposed and unprotected.
4 Renew any defective brake pipes and/or
hoses.

Removal

5 If any section of pipe or hose is to be
removed, the loss of fluid may be reduced by
removing the hydraulic fluid reservoir filler
cap, placing a piece of polythene over the
filler neck, and securing it with an elastic
band. If a section of pipe is to be removed
from the master cylinder, the reservoir should
be emptied by syphoning out the fluid or
drawing out the fluid with a pipette. If any
brake fluid is spilt onto the bodywork, it must
be wiped clean without delay.
6 To remove a section of pipe, hold the
adjoining hose union nut with a suitable
spanner to prevent it from turning, then
unscrew the union nut at the end of the pipe
and release it (see illustration). Repeat the
procedure at the other end of the pipe, then
release the pipe from the clips attaching it to
the body. Where the union nuts are exposed
to the full force of the weather, they can
sometimes be quite tight. If an open-ended
spanner is used, burring of the flats on the
nuts is not uncommon, and for this reason it is
preferable to use a split ring spanner which
will engage all the flats. If such a spanner is
not available, self-locking grips may be used,
although this is not recommended.
7 To further minimise the loss of fluid when
disconnecting a flexible brake line, clamp the
hose as near to the joint to be detached as is
possible using a brake hose clamp, or failing
this, a self-locking wrench fitted with
protective jaws. To remove a flexible hose,
first clean the ends of the hose and the
surrounding area, then unscrew the union
nut(s) from the hose end(s). Recover the
spring clip and withdraw the hose from the

serrated mounting in the support bracket.
Where applicable, unscrew the hose from the
caliper (see illustrations).
8 Brake pipes with flared ends and union nuts
in place can be obtained (individually or in sets)
from Ford dealers or accessory shops. The
pipe is then bent to shape, using the old pipe
as a guide, and is ready for fitting to the car.

Refitting

9 Refitting the pipes and hoses is a reversal
of removal. Make sure that all brake pipes are
securely supported in their clips, and ensure
that the hoses are not kinked. Check also that
the hoses are clear of all suspension
components and underbody fittings, and will
remain clear during movement of the
suspension and steering. After refitting,
remove the polythene from the reservoir, and
bleed the brake hydraulic system as
described in Section 17.

17 Hydraulic system - bleeding

3

Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; wash off immediately
and thoroughly in the case of
skin contact, and seek immediate

medical advice if any fluid is swallowed or
gets into the eyes. Certain types of
hydraulic fluid are inflammable, and may
ignite when allowed into contact with hot
components; when servicing the hydraulic
system, it is safest to assume that the fluid
IS inflammable, and to take precautions
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol

Braking system 9•13

16.6 Typical rigid brake pipe connections

and securing clips to the body

15.5 Brake system cross-link mounting to

the bulkhead

16.7B Flexible-to rigid hydraulic brake line

connection. Securing clip to location

bracket is arrowed

16.7A Brake hose clamp fitted to minimise

fluid loss

9

A

Support bracket

B Bush
C Cross-link
D Bush
E

Return spring

F

Support bracket

15.6 Brake pedal cross-link assembly