Ford Orion. Manual — part 9

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4 to 5

3 to 4

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 to 20

12 to 14

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110 to 120

81 to 88

Rocker gear pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40 to 46

30 to 34

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

64 to 70

47 to 51

Exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 25

15 to 18

Inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 to 20

12 to 15

Sump:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6 to 8

4 to 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 to 11

6 to 8

Stage 3 (with engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 to 11

6 to 8

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13 to 15

10 to 11

Cylinder head bolts (may be re-used once only):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30

22

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 90º

Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7 to 9

5 to 6

Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7 to 10

5 to 7

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 to 20

12 to 14

Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4 to 5

3 to 4

Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 to 20

12 to 14

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 to 12

6 to 9

Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2A•2 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1

General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair

procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.4 and
1.6 litre CVH engines, and the 1.6 and 1.8 litre

Zetec engines, will be found in Parts B and C
of this Chapter respectively. Since these
procedures are based on the assumption that
the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the
engine has been removed from the vehicle
and mounted on a stand, some of the
preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not
apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission

removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.

General description -
HCS engine

The engine is an overhead valve, water-

cooled, four cylinder in-line design,
designated HCS (High Compression Swirl)
(see illustration). It is mounted transversely
at the front of the vehicle together with
the transmission to form a combined power
unit.

The crankshaft is supported in five shell-

type main bearings. The connecting rod big-
end bearings are also split shell-type, and are
attached to the pistons by interference-fit

1.3 Cutaway view of the HCS engine

1.6 HCS engine lubrication circuit

gudgeon pins. Each piston is fitted with two
compression rings and one oil control ring.

The camshaft, which runs on bearings

within the cylinder block, is chain-driven from
the crankshaft, and operates the valves via
pushrods and rocker arms. The valves are
each closed by a single valve spring, and
operate in guides integral in the cylinder head.

The oil pump is mounted externally on the

crankcase, incorporates a full-flow oil filter,
and is driven by a skew gear on the camshaft
(see illustration). On carburettor versions, the
fuel pump is also driven from the camshaft,
via an eccentric lobe.

2

Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle

The following major repair operations can

be accomplished without removing the engine
from the vehicle:
a)

Compression pressure - testing.

b)

Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and
refitting.

c)

Valve clearances - adjustment.

d)

Cylinder head and pistons -
decarbonising.

e)

Rocker shaft assembly - removal and
refitting.

f)

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.

g)

Oil filter renewal.

h)

Oil pump - removal and refitting.

i)

Sump - removal and refitting.

j)

Piston/connecting rod assemblies -
removal and refitting.

k)

Flywheel - removal, inspection and
refitting.

l)

Engine/transmission mountings - removal
and refitting.

Clean the engine compartment and the

exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt
out of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, it

may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint; special covers are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks

develop, indicating a need for
component/gasket or seal replacement, the
repairs can generally be made with the engine
in the vehicle. The inlet and exhaust manifold
gaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil seals
and cylinder head gasket are all accessible
with the engine in place.

Exterior components such as the inlet and

exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil pump,
the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator and the fuel system components
can be removed for repair with the engine in
place.

Since the cylinder head can be removed

without lifting out the engine, valve
component servicing can also be
accomplished with the engine in the vehicle.

In extreme cases caused by a lack of

necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine in
the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved, and because of the
amount of preliminary dismantling work
required - these operations are therefore
covered in Part D of this Chapter.

3

Compression test -
description and interpretation

2

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The aid of an assistant will also be
required.
3 Disconnect the 3-pin plug from the DIS
ignition coil (under the inlet manifold).
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5 Arrange for an assistant to hold the
accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor,
while at the same time cranking the engine
over for several seconds on the starter motor.
Observe the compression gauge reading. The
compression will build up fairly quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression on the
first stroke which does not rise on successive
strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown
head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could
also be the cause). Deposits on the underside
of the valve heads can also cause low
compression. Record the highest gauge
reading obtained, then repeat the procedure
for the remaining cylinders.
6 Due to the variety of testers available, and
the fluctuation in starter motor speed when
cranking the engine, different readings are
often obtained when carrying out the
compression test. For this reason, actual
compression pressure figures are not quoted
by Ford. However, the most important factor
is that the compression pressures are uniform
in all cylinders, and that is what this test is
mainly concerned with.

7 Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder
through the spark plug holes, and then repeat
the test.
8 If the compression increases after the oil is
added, it is indicative that the piston rings are
definitely worn. If the compression does not
increase significantly, the leakage is occurring
at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage
past the valves may be caused by burned
valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked
or bent valves.
9 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compressions, it is most likely that the head
gasket has blown between them. The
appearance of coolant in the combustion
chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would
verify this condition.
10 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the other, and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could
be the cause.
11 On completion of the checks, refit the
spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and
the DIS ignition coil plug.

4

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston - locating

2

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
at the end of the compression stroke for No 1
piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1
cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing
chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Ensure that the ignition is switched off.
Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs,
then unscrew and remove the plugs as
described in Chapter 1.
3 Turn the engine over by hand (using a
spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point
where the timing mark on the crankshaft
pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark on the
timing cover (see illustration). As the pulley
mark nears the timing mark, the No 1 piston is
simultaneously approaching the top of its
cylinder. To ensure that it is on its

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•3

4.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley

aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the

timing cover

2A

compression stroke, place a finger over the
No 1 cylinder plug hole, and feel to ensure
that air pressure exits from the cylinder as the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
4 A further check to ensure that the piston is
on its compression stroke can be made by
first removing the air cleaner (see Chapter 4),
then unbolting and removing the rocker cover,
so that the movement of the valves and
rockers can be observed.
5 With the TDC timing marks on the
crankshaft pulley and timing cover in
alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth
a few degrees each side of this position, and
observe the action of the valves and rockers
for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the
TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve
of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the
corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be
seen to rock open and closed.
6 If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1
cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of No 4
cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will need to
be turned one full rotation to bring No 1 piston
up to the top of its cylinder on the
compression stroke.
7 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its
normal direction of rotation), 180

∞

at a time,

and following the firing order (see Specifica-
tions).

5

Cylinder head rocker cover -
removal and refitting

1

1 Remove the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4.
2 Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs.
Pull on the connector of each lead (not the
lead itself), and note the order of fitting.
3 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the
rocker cover clear of the cylinder head.
Remove the gasket.
4 Thoroughly clean the rocker cover, and
scrape away any traces of old gasket remaining
on the cover and cylinder head mating surfaces.
5 Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then

refit the rocker cover (see illustrations). Tighten
the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting, in a diagonal sequence.
6 Reconnect the HT leads, and refit the air
cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

6

Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment

2

1 This operation must be carried out with the
engine cold. The air cleaner (see Chapter 4),
the rocker cover and the spark plugs (see
Chapter 1) must first be removed. As the
plugs and their HT leads are removed, note
their order of fitting, so that they may be
refitted in their original locations.
2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 piston, as
described in Section 4.
3 Starting from the thermostat end of the
cylinder head, the valves are numbered as
follows:

Valve No

Cylinder No

1 - Exhaust

1

2 - Inlet

1

3 - Exhaust

2

4 - Inlet

2

5 - Inlet

3

6 - Exhaust

3

7 - Inlet

4

8 - Exhaust

4

4 Adjust the valve clearances following the
sequence given in the following table. Turn
the crankshaft pulley 180º (half a turn) after
adjusting each pair of valve clearances.

Valves “rocking”

Valves to adjust

7 and 8

1 (exhaust), 2 (inlet)

5 and 6

3 (exhaust), 4 (inlet)

1 and 2

8 (exhaust), 7 (inlet)

3 and 4

6 (exhaust), 5 (inlet)

5 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust
valves differ (refer to the Specifications). Use a
feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness to
check each clearance between the end of the
valve stem and the rocker arm (see
illustration). The gauge should be a firm
sliding fit between the valve and rocker arm.
Where adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjuster bolt as required with a ring spanner
to set the clearance to that specified. The

adjuster bolts are of stiff-thread type, and
require no locking nut.
6 Refit the rocker cover, and tighten its
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting
in a diagonal sequence.
7 Refit the spark plugs, and reconnect the HT
leads.
8 Refit the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

7

Inlet manifold -
removal and refitting

4

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system. Don’t

smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light
bulbs, in or near the work area. Don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas appliance
(such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is
installed. If you spill petrol on your skin,
rinse it off immediately. Have a fire
extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy,
and know how to use it.

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
2 Remove the carburettor or CFi unit (as
applicable) as described in Chapter 4.
3 Noting their locations, disconnect the
coolant, vacuum and breather hoses from the
manifold.
4 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
engine sensors at the inlet manifold.
Disconnect the radio earth lead at the inlet
manifold connector.
5 Undo the retaining bolts, and withdraw the
manifold from the cylinder head. Remove the
gasket.
6 With the manifold removed, clean all traces
of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of
the manifold and the cylinder head.

Refitting

7 Refitting is the reversal of removal. Use a
new gasket, and tighten the retaining bolts to
the specified torque. Refit the remainder of
the components with reference to the
appropriate Chapters of this manual.

2A•4 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

6.5 Adjusting the valve clearances

5.5B Refitting the rocker cover

5.5A Engage tags of rocker cover gasket

into the cut-outs in the cover

8

Exhaust manifold - removal,
inspection and refitting

1

Note: Never work on or near the exhaust
system and in particular, the catalytic
converter (where fitted), while it is still hot. If
this is unavoidable, wear thick gloves, and
protect yourself from burns should you
accidentally touch a hot exhaust component.

Removal

1 The exhaust manifold is secured the
cylinder head by studs and nuts, and is
similarly attached to the exhaust downpipe. A
shroud/heat shield is bolted to the manifold,
to direct exhaust-heated air into the air inlet
system when the engine is cold. Access to the
exhaust manifold retaining nuts is gained by
first removing this shroud (see illustration).
2 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping as
described in Chapter 6.
3 Support the exhaust downpipe on a jack or
suitable blocks, and undo the downpipe-to-
manifold retaining nuts. Separate the pipe
from the manifold, and remove the gasket. On
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles, take
care not to stretch the oxygen sensor wiring,
where applicable; if necessary, disconnect the
sensor’s multi-plug.
4 Undo the retaining nuts, and withdraw the
manifold from the cylinder head studs.
Remove the manifold gasket.

Inspection

5 Use a scraper to remove all traces of old
gasket material and carbon deposits from the
manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If
the gasket was leaking, have the manifold
checked for warpage at an automotive
machine shop, and have it resurfaced if
necessary.
6 Provided both mating surfaces are clean
and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to
ensure the joint is gastight. Do not use any
kind of exhaust sealant upstream of the
catalytic converter, where fitted.
7 Note that on some models, the downpipe is
secured to the manifold by two bolts, with a

coil spring, spring seat and self-locking nut on
each. On refitting, tighten the nuts until they
stop on the bolt shoulders; the pressure of the
springs will then suffice to make a gastight
joint.
8 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak -
the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and the
springs if a leak is found. The bolts
themselves are secured by spring clips to the
manifold, and can be renewed easily if
damaged.

Refitting

9 Refit the manifold in the reverse order of
removal. Tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque - see previous paragraph.
Ensure that all adjacent wiring and hoses are
clear of the exhaust system and manifold, and
on completion check the system joints for any
signs of leaks.

9

Cylinder head rocker gear -
removal, inspection and
refitting

2

Removal

1 Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 5.
2 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the
rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head.

As the assembly is withdrawn, ensure that the
pushrods remain seated in their positions in
the engine.

Inspection

3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly,
extract the split pin from one end of the shaft,
then withdraw the spring and plain washers
from the shaft.
4 Slide off the rocker arms, the support
pedestals and coil springs from the shaft, but
take care to keep them in their original order
of fitting (see illustrations).
5 Clean the respective components, and
inspect them for signs of excessive wear or
damage. Check that the oil lubrication holes in
the shaft are clear.
6 Check the rocker shaft and arm pads which
bear on the valve stem end faces for wear and
scoring, and check each rocker arm on the
shaft for excessive wear. Renew any
components as necessary.

Refitting

7 Apply clean engine oil to the rocker shaft
prior to reassembling.
8 Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•5

9.4A Rocker shaft and associated components

8.1 Exhaust manifold shroud/heat shield

9.4B Partially-dismantled rocker shaft

2A

If the pushrods are to be removed,
keep them in the correct order of fitting
by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder
head, or locate them in a card.