Ford Orion. Manual — part 14

11 At the rear end of the cylinder head,
pierce the camshaft blanking plug with a
suitable tool, and then lever it out of its
aperture (see illustrations).
12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder
head at the rear (ignition coil) end (see
illustration). Take care not to damage the
bearings in the cylinder head as the shaft is
withdrawn.

Inspection

13 Clean and inspect the various
components removed for signs of excessive
wear.
14 Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a
new camshaft will be required.
15 Compare the previously-measured
camshaft endfloat with that specified. If the

endfloat is outside of the specified tolerance,
the thrust plate must be renewed.
16 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in
the cylinder head should be measured and
checked against the tolerances specified. A
suitable measuring gauge will be required for
this, but if this is not available, check for
excessive movement between the camshaft
journals and the bearings. If the bearings are
found to be unacceptably worn, a new
cylinder head is the only answer, as the
bearings are machined directly into the head.
17 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are
badly worn in the cylinder head bores but
again, if the bores are found to be worn
beyond an acceptable level, the cylinder head
must be renewed.
18 If the contact surfaces of the cam lobes
show signs of depression or grooving, they
cannot be renovated by grinding, as the
hardened surface will be removed and the
overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced.
The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be
exceeded as a result, so that the valve
adjustment will be affected, resulting in noisy
operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft
is the only remedy in this case.
19 Inspect the rocker arm contact surfaces
for excessive wear, and renew if necessary
(see illustration).

Refitting

20 Refitting the camshaft and its associated
components is a reversal of the removal

procedure, but note the following special
points.
21 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, the
camshaft and the thrust plate with clean
engine oil prior to fitting them. As the
camshaft is inserted, take care not to damage
the bearings in the cylinder head. Refer to the
Specifications for the thrust plate
retaining bolt torque. When the thrust plate
bolts are tightened, make a final check to
ensure that the camshaft endfloat is as
specified.
22 A new front oil seal must be fitted after the
camshaft has been installed (see previous
Section for details). It will also be necessary to
insert a new blanking plug into the rear end of
the cylinder head. Drive it squarely into
position so that it is flush with the head (see
illustration).
23 Refer to the procedure in Section 11 when
refitting the camshaft sprocket.
24 Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 10.
25 Lubricate the hydraulic tappets with
hypoid oil before refitting them into their
original locations in the cylinder head.
26 Lubricate and refit the rocker arms and
guides in their original sequence, use new
nuts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting (see illustration). It is essential before
each rocker arm is installed and its nut
tightened, that the respective cam follower is
positioned at its lowest point (in contact with
the cam base circle). Turn the cam (using the

2B•10 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.26 Lubricate the rocker arm assemblies

as they are refitted

13.22 Driving a new blanking plug into

position

13.19 Inspect the rocker arm contact

points indicated for excessive wear

13.12 Withdraw the camshaft from the

cylinder head

13.11B . . . and lever it out of the cylinder

head

13.11A Pierce the centre of the blanking

plug . . .

13.10B . . . and lift out the camshaft thrust

plate

crankshaft pulley bolt) as necessary to
achieve this.
27 Fit a new rocker cover gasket. To ensure
that a good seal is made, check that its
location groove is clear of oil, grease or any
pieces of old gasket. When in position, tighten
the cover retaining bolts to the specified
torque setting. Ensure that the cover bolt
plate washers are correctly orientated, with
their grooves facing upwards.
28 Refit the remaining components with
reference to the relevant Sections in this
Chapter or elsewhere in the manual.
29 On completion, reconnect the battery
earth lead.

14 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

4

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system. Don’t

smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light
bulbs in or near the work area. Don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas appliance
(such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is
installed. If you spill petrol on your skin,
rinse it off immediately. Have a fire
extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy,
and know how to use it.

Removal

1 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
3 Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines
as part of the following procedure, always
label them clearly, so that they can be
correctly reassembled. Masking tape and/or a

touch-up paint applicator work well for
marking items. Take instant photos, or sketch
the locations of components and brackets.
4 Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 5.
5 Loosen off the retaining clips and
disconnect the upper coolant hose, the
expansion tank hose and the heater hose
from the thermostat housing. Also disconnect
the heater hose from the inlet manifold.
6 On CFi models, disconnect the heated
coolant hose from the injector unit.
7 On EFi models, disconnect the following
(see illustration):
a)

The MAP sensor vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold upper section.

b)

The carbon canister solenoid valve
vacuum hose from the inlet manifold
upper section.

c)

The oil trap vacuum hose at the “T” piece
connector.

d)

The brake servo vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold upper section by pressing
in the clamp ring and simultaneously
pulling the hose free from the connection.

e)

The coolant hose from the injector
intermediate flange and at the thermostat
housing.

8 Disconnect the following fuel supply/return
hoses. Plug the hoses and connections, to
prevent fuel spillage and the possible ingress
of dirt.
a)

On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel supply hose from the pump and the
return hose from the carburettor.

b)

On CFi models, pull free and detach the
fuel return hose from the injection unit
and the supply hose at the connector.

c)

On EFi models, detach the fuel supply
hose from the fuel rail. Disconnect the
return line from the fuel pressure
regulator.

9 On CFi models, disconnect the brake servo
vacuum hose from the inlet manifold, the MAP
sensor vacuum hose from the sensor, and the
carbon canister connecting hose at the
injection unit (see illustration).
10 Noting their connections and routings,
disconnect the following wiring connectors or
multi-plugs from the following items, where
applicable:

a)

Temperature gauge sender unit.

b)

DIS ignition coil.

c)

Coolant temperature sensor.

d)

Cooling fan thermostatic switch.

e)

Carburettor.

f)

Radio earth lead.

g)

Road speed sensor.

h)

Engine wiring loom.

i)

Inlet air temperature sensor.

11 On CFi models, detach the throttle control
motor, throttle position sensor and injector
lead multi-plugs (see illustration).
12 Where still attached, disconnect the HT
leads from the DIS ignition coil and the spark
plugs.
13 Loosen off the timing belt tensioner
retaining bolts, and move the tensioner to
release the tension from the drivebelt.
Support the belt, and move it clear of the
camshaft sprocket.
14 Apply the handbrake, then raise the
vehicle at the front end, and support it on axle
stands.
15 Unscrew the retaining nuts and detach
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Remove the gasket; note that a new one must
be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe up
to support it. Where applicable, disconnect
the pulse-air supply hose from the check
valve. Noting their connections (to ensure
correct reassembly), disconnect the
appropriate system vacuum hoses at the PVS
(three port vacuum switch) under the inlet
manifold.
16 Before it is released and removed, the
cylinder head must first have cooled down to
room temperature (about 20ºC).
17 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining bolts
progressively in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening (see illustration
14.23C). The cylinder head bolts must be
discarded and new bolts obtained for refitting
the cylinder head.
18 Remove the cylinder head complete with
its manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•11

14.11 Wiring connections to be detached

on the 1.4 litre CFi fuel injected engine

A Coolant temperature sensor
B Throttle plate control motor
C Throttle position sensor
D Injector

14.9 Vacuum hose to the MAP sensor (A)

and the brake servo unit (B) on the 1.4 litre

CFi fuel-injected engine

14.7 Vacuum hoses and throttle cable

connections on the 1.6 litre EFi fuel

injected engine

A Hose to MAP sensor
B Crankcase ventilation breather hose
C Throttle cable and clip
D Oil trap hose and T-piece connector
E Hose to oil trap
F Hose to carbon canister solenoid valve

2B

attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face.
19 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This
must always be renewed; it is essential that
the correct type is obtained. Save the old
gasket, so that the identification marks (teeth)
can be used when ordering the new one (see
illustration).

Refitting

20 Before refitting the cylinder head, the
mating surfaces of both the head and the
cylinder block must be perfectly clean, and
the locating dowels must be in position. Clean
the retaining bolt holes of oil. In extreme
cases, it is possible for oil and coolant left in
the bolt holes to crack the head due to the
hydraulic effect when the bolts are inserted.

21 To prevent the possibility of the valves
and pistons coming into contact as the head
is fitted, turn the crankshaft over to position
No 1 piston approximately 20 mm below its
TDC position in the bore (see illustration).
22 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the
top face of the cylinder block, locating it over
the dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted the
correct way up, as indicated by its “OBEN-
TOP” marking (see illustrations).
23 Lower the cylinder head into position,
ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels,
then insert the new retaining bolts. Hand-
tighten the bolts initially, then tighten them in
the order shown in the four stages to the
specified torque setting (see illustrations).
After the first two stages, mark the bolt heads
with a dab of quick drying paint, so that the
paint spots all face the same direction. Now
tighten all the bolts in the sequence to the
Stage 3 setting, by tightening them through
the specified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all
the bolts through the Stage 4 angle.
24 If all the bolts have been tightened
equally, all of the paint spots should be facing
the same direction. The bolts do not require
any further tightening.
25 The camshaft toothed belt pulley should
be positioned so that its TDC index mark
pointer is in alignment with the TDC index
spot mark on the front end face of the cylinder
head (see illustration 4.6B).
26 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring its
TDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0)

indicator on the front face of the timing belt
cover, taking the shortest route (not vice-
versa) (see illustration 4.5A).
27 Refit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, and then tension the belt as
described in Section 10.
28 The remainder of the refitting procedures
are a reversal of the removal. Refer to the
appropriate Sections both in this Chapter, and
in Chapters 3 and 4 for specific details when
reconnecting the engine, cooling system and
fuel system components.
29 On completion, check that the engine oil
level is correct, and refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter 1.
30 Check that all wiring connections are
securely and correctly made, and reconnect
the battery on completion.

15 Sump - removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-
ter 1.
3 Check that the handbrake is fully applied,
then raise the vehicle at the front end, and
support it on axle stands.
4 On models fitted with a controlled catalytic
converter, pull free the oxygen sensor lead

2B•12 CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures

14.23C Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence

14.23B Insert the new cylinder head

bolts

14.23A Lower the cylinder head into

position

14.22B . . . and locate it over the

dowels

14.22A Fit the cylinder head gasket with

the “OBEN/TOP” marking upwards . . .

14.21 Position No 1 piston 20 mm down

the bore

14.19 Cylinder head location dowels (A)

and gasket identification teeth (B)

multi-plug, and disconnect it. If the engine has
been recently run, take particular care against
burning when working in the area of the
catalytic converter.
5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold. The
flange gasket must be renewed when
reconnecting. Where applicable, also detach
the downpipe at the rear of the catalytic
converter, and release it from the front
mounting.
6 On 1.6 litre engines, undo the retaining
bolts and remove the engine-to-transmission
auxiliary bracing brackets (see illustrations).
7 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the
clutch cover plate from the front face of the
bellhousing (see illustration).
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts and remove them. Support and lower
the sump pan, taking care not to spill any oil
remaining in it as it is removed (see
illustration). If the sump is stuck to the base
of the crankcase, prise it free using
screwdriver, but take care not to damage the
sump flange face. If it is really stuck in
position, check first that all of the bolts are
removed, then cut around the sump gasket
with a sharp knife to help in freeing the joint.
9 After the sump is removed, further oil will
almost certainly continue to drip down from
within the crankcase, some old newspapers

positioned underneath will soak up the
spillage whilst the sump is removed.
10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge,
using paraffin or a suitable engine cleaner
solution. Clean any traces of old gasket and
sealer
from the mating faces of the sump and the
crankcase.

Refitting

11 Smear a suitable sealing compound onto
the junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal
carrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oil
pump housing at the front on each side (see
illustrations).
12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove in
the rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case.
As an aid to correct sump alignment when
refitting it, screw ten M6 studs into the
cylinder block, in the positions circled in
illustration 15.14.
13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit the
sump into position, ensuring that the raised
spacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts into
the available holes, and finger-tighten them
only at this stage. Now remove the studs and
fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.
14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive,
numerical sequence to the specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration).
15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealing
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
16 Refit the clutch cover plate.

17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe as
described in Chapter 4.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fill
the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.
Reconnect the battery.

16 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 8),
the timing belt covers (Section 9), the timing

CVH engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2B•13

15.7 Removing the clutch cover plate

15.6B Auxiliary bracing bracket removal

from the starter motor side of the engine -

1.6 litre engine only

15.6A Auxiliary bracing bracket-to-engine

bolts (oil filter side) - 1.6 litre engine only

15.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence

A Crankshaft pulley end of engine
Circled numbers indicate locations of studs
for correct sump alignment (see text)

15.8 Removing the sump from the engine

15.11B Applying sealant to the oil pump-

to-crankcase joint

15.11A Sealing compound application

points prior to refitting the sump

A Crankcase-to-oil pump housing
B Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrier

2B