Ford Orion. Manual — part 41
the brush wiring connectors and withdrawing
the brushes and their springs.
5 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
6 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Bosch NC 14V 60-90A
7 Remove the three screws, and withdraw the
plastic end cover (see illustration).
8 Remove the two voltage regulator/brush
holder mounting screws.
9 Remove the regulator/brush holder from the
end frame (see illustration).
10 Measure the exposed length of each
brush, and compare it to the minimum length
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the
length of either brush is less than the
specified minimum, renew the assembly.
11 Make sure that each brush moves
smoothly in the brush holder.
12 Check that the slip rings - the ring of
copper on which each brush bears - are
clean. Wipe them with a solvent-moistened
cloth; if either appears scored or blackened,
take the alternator to a repair specialist for
advice.
13 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Magneti-Marelli
14 Remove the three screws securing the
regulator/brush box unit on the rear face of
the alternator, partially withdraw the
assembly, detach the field connector, and
remove the unit from the alternator (see
illustrations).
15 If the brushes are worn beyond the
minimum allowable length specified, a new
regulator and brush box unit must be fitted;
the brushes are not available separately.
16 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
17 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Mitsubishi
18 Hold the pulley nut stationary using an 8
mm Allen key, unscrew the pulley nut and
remove the washer (see illustration).
5•8 Engine electrical systems
14.14B Regulator/brush box retaining
screws on the Magneti-Marelli alternator
14.14A Exploded view of the Magneti-Marelli alternator
14.9 Remove the regulator/brush holder
from the end frame (Bosch NC alternator)
14.7 Remove the three screws, and
withdraw the plastic end cover (Bosch NC
alternator)
14.4 Measuring the brush lengths (Bosch
K1 alternator)
14.3C . . . withdraw the brush
box/regulator unit (Bosch K1 alternator)
A Pulley
B Fan
C Drive end housing
D Drive end bearing
E Rotor
F Through-bolt
H Brushbox/regulator
J Slip ring end
bearing
K Slip ring end
housing
L Rectifier diode pack
M Stator
N Suppressor
19 Withdraw the pulley, cooling fan, spacer
and dust shield from the rotor shaft.
20 Mark the relative fitted positions of the
front housing, stator and rear housing (to
ensure correct re-alignment when
reassembling). Unscrew the through-bolts
and remove the front housing from the rotor
shaft, followed by the dust seal and the thin
spacer (see illustrations).
21 Remove the rotor from the rear housing
and the stator. If difficulty is experienced, heat
the rear housing with a 200-watt soldering
iron for three or four minutes (see
illustration).
22 Unbolt the rectifier/brush box and stator
assembly from the rear housing (see
illustration).
23 Unsolder the stator and brush box from
the rectifier, using the very minimum of heat.
Use a pair of pliers as a heat sink to reduce
the heat transference to the diodes
(overheating may cause diode failure).
24 Renew the brushes if they are worn down
to, or beyond, the minimum specified length.
Unsolder the brush wires at the points
Engine electrical systems 5•9
14.20A Exploded view of the Mitsubishi A5T alternator
14.18 Pulley nut removal on the Mitsubishi
alternator
14.22 Rectifier/brush box (1) and regulator
unit (3) retaining nuts on the Mitsubishi
alternator. Note that cap (2) covers the
regulator nut
14.21 Using a soldering iron to heat the
slip ring end housing for removal of the
rotor from the rear housing on the
Mitsubishi alternator
14.20B Exploded view of the AOO2T Mitsubishi alternator
A Pulley nut
B Spring washer
C Pulley
D Through-bolt
E Retainer plate screw
F Drive end housing
G Bearing
H Bearing retaining plate
J Spacer
K Rotor
L Spacer
M Slip ring end bearing
N Plug
P Cap
Q Terminal insulator
R Slip ring end housing
S Rectifier
T Dust cover
V Regulator
W Brush spring
X Brush
Y Regulator screw
Z Stator
5
A Pulley
B Fan
C Thick spacer
D Through-bolt
E Dust shield
F Drive end unit
G Bearing
H Bearing retainer
J Dust cap
K Thin spacer
L Rotor
M Seal
N Bearing
O Commutator end
P Diode pack
R Brush box
S Stator
indicated (see illustration), then solder the
new brush leads so that the wear limit line
projects 2 to 3 mm from the end of the holder
(see illustration).
25 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
26 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Insert a piece of wire through the access hole
in the rear housing to hold the brushes in the
retracted position as the rotor is refitted (see
illustration). Do not forget to release the
brushes when assembled.
15 Starting system - general
information and precautions
General information
The sole function of the starting system is
to turn over the engine quickly enough to
allow it to start.
The starting system consists of the battery,
the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and the
wires connecting them. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.
When the ignition key is turned to position
“III”, the starter solenoid is actuated through
the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid
then connects the battery to the starter. The
battery supplies the electrical energy to the
starter motor, which does the actual work of
cranking the engine, via the ring gear on the
flywheel/driveplate.
The starter motor on a vehicle equipped
with automatic transmission can be operated
only when the selector lever is in Park or
Neutral (“P” or “N”).
If the alarm system is armed or activated,
the starter motor cannot be operated. The
same applies with the engine immobiliser
system (where fitted).
Precautions
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the starting system:
a)
Excessive cranking of the starter motor can
overheat it, and cause serious damage.
Never operate the starter motor for more
than 15 seconds at a time without pausing
to allow it to cool for at least two minutes.
Excessive starter operation will also risk
unburned fuel collecting in the catalytic
converter’s element (where applicable),
causing it to overheat when the engine
does start (see Chapter 6).
b)
The starter is connected directly to the
battery, and could arc or cause a fire if
mishandled, overloaded or shorted-out.
c)
Always detach the lead from the negative
terminal of the battery before working on
the starting system (see Section 1).
16 Starting system - testing
2
Note: Before diagnosing starter problems,
make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and ensure that the alarm/engine immobiliser
system is not activated.
1 If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that, on
automatic transmission models, the selector
lever is in Park or Neutral (“P” or “N”).
2 Make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and that all leads, both at the battery and
starter solenoid terminals, are clean and
secure.
3 If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch or (when
applicable) the reduction gears in the starter
motor may be slipping, in which case the
starter motor must be overhauled or renewed.
(Other possibilities are that the starter motor
mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth
are missing from the flywheel/driveplate ring
gear.)
4 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to
click when the switch is actuated, the battery
is faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or the
solenoid itself is defective.
6 To check the solenoid, connect a fused
jumper lead between the battery (+) and the
ignition switch terminal (the small terminal) on
the solenoid. If the starter motor now
operates, the solenoid is OK, and the problem
is in the ignition switch, selector lever position
sensor (automatic transmission) or in the
wiring.
7 If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove it (see Section 17). The brushes and
commutator may be checked (see Sec-
tion 18), but if the fault persists, the motor
should be renewed, or taken to an auto-
electrician for testing and repair.
8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an
abnormally-slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged, and that all terminal
connections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
9 If the engine is known to be OK, and with
the correct viscosity oil, but the cranking
speed is still slow, the solenoid contacts are
burned, the motor is faulty, or there is a poor
internal connection.
17 Starter motor -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1).
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. If
the engine has been recently run, take care
against burning yourself on the exhaust
system during the following operations.
3 Undo the two retaining nuts, and remove
the starter motor heat shield (where fitted).
4 Prise free the cap, if fitted, then unscrew the
nuts to disconnect the wiring from the
starter/solenoid terminals. Where applicable,
disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring multi-plug
from the locating bracket (see illustrations).
5 Unscrew and remove the starter motor
retaining bolts at the transmission/clutch
housing and, where applicable, also unbolt
and detach the support bracket. Withdraw the
starter motor from its mounting, and remove it
from the vehicle (see illustrations).
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Ensure that the wiring is securely reconnected
to the starter motor (and solenoid) and is
routed clear of the exhaust downpipe.
5•10 Engine electrical systems
14.26 Use a length of wire rod to hold
brushes in the retracted position when
reassembling the rotor to the housing on
the Mitsubishi alternator
14.24B Fitted position of new brush on a
Mitsubishi alternator
14.24A Unsoldering a brush wire on a
Mitsubishi alternator
Engine electrical systems 5•11
17.4C Starter motor and wiring
connections on a Zetec engine
17.4B Starter motor and wiring
connections on a CVH engine
17.4A Starter motor and wiring
connections on an HCS engine
18.2A Exploded view of the Bosch DM starter motor
1 Solenoid yoke
2 Return spring
3 Solenoid armature
4 Actuating arm
5 Drive pinion and clutch unit
6 Drive end housing
7 Solenoid retaining screws
8 C-clip
9 Thrust collar
10 Armature
11 Rubber block
12 Yoke
13 Brush plate
14 Commutator end plate
15 Seal
16 Shim
17 C-clip
18 Commutator end plate cap
19 Securing screw
20 Through-bolt
18.2B Exploded view of the Bosch DW starter motor
1 Yoke
2 Return spring
3 Solenoid armature
4 Actuating arm
5 Drive end housing
6 Drive pinion and clutch
7 Spacer
8 Ring gear and carrier
9 Output shaft and planet gear unit
10 Circlip
11 Through-bolt
12 Cap
13 C-clip
14 Shim
15 Commutator endplate
16 Brush plate
17 Yoke
18 Rubber block
19 Armature
20 Retaining plate
17.5B Starter motor removal (CVH engine
shown)
17.5A Starter motor support bracket bolt
17.4D Oxygen sensor wiring multi-plug
connector and location bracket
5
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