Ford Orion. Manual — part 56

feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the

cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full manuals are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.

5

Major body damage -
repair

5

Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a Citroën
dealer, using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the
car will not handle properly; secondly, uneven
stresses will be imposed on the steering,
suspension and possibly transmission,
causing abnormal wear, or complete failure,
particularly to such items as the tyres.

6

Bumpers -
removal and refitting

2

Removal

Front bumper

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise and
support the vehicle at the front end on axle
stands.
2 Release the six fasteners and two clips, and
remove the splash shield from the underside
of the vehicle at the front. The six fasteners
will either be clip types or plastic screws, in
which case they can be prised free or
unscrewed, or pop-rivets, which will need to
be drilled through.
3 Undo the two bumper-to-wing retaining
screws at the rear edge of the bumper each
side (see illustration).
4 Unscrew and remove the four bumper
retaining nuts (two each side) securing the
bumper to the front end of the vehicle (see
illustration).
5 Disconnect the wiring from the bumper
mounted lights or indicators, where fitted.
6 Enlist the aid of an assistant, and carefully
withdraw the bumper forwards from the
vehicle.

Rear (single-piece) bumper

7 Prise free the number plate light from the
bumper, then detach the wiring connectors
and remove the light.

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

6.4 Front bumper retaining nuts

6.3 Front bumper retaining screws

If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for filling

small holes.

8 Unscrew and remove the two retaining
screws securing the forward ends of the
bumper to the trailing end of the wheel arch
each side (see illustration).
9 Where applicable, remove the rear trim
panel in the rear luggage compartment to gain
access to the bumper securing nuts.
10 Unscrew and remove the bumper
retaining nuts from the rear panel each side
(see illustrations). On some models, access
to the nuts is from underneath the vehicle; on
others, it is from within the luggage
compartment after removal of the appropriate
rear trim panel. Enlist the aid of an assistant,
to help in pulling the bumper outwards to
clear the body each side, and withdraw it
rearwards from the vehicle.

Rear quarter bumper

11 Reach behind the bumper, compress the
rear number plate light retaining clips, and
extract the light from the bumper. Disconnect
the wiring connectors and remove the light.
12 Working from above, between the bumper
and the vehicle rear panel, undo the two Torx-
type retaining screws and then remove the
quarter bumper (see illustration).

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Check the bumper for alignment
before fully tightening the retaining

nuts/screws. On rear bumpers, check the
operation of the rear number plate light on
completion.

7

Bonnet -
removal, refitting and
adjustment

1

Removal

1 Open the bonnet, and support it in the open
position using the stay.
2 Release the fasteners and remove the
insulation panel from the underside of the
bonnet.
3 Disconnect the windscreen washer hose
from its connection to the washer jet, and
from the locating clips on the bonnet and
hinge.
4 Undo the retaining screw, and detach the
earth lead from the bonnet near the left-hand
hinge (see illustration). Also, where
applicable, disconnect the heated washer
multi-plug and wiring from the bonnet.
5 To assist in correctly realigning the bonnet
when refitting it, mark the outline of the hinges
with a soft pencil, then loosen the two hinge
retaining bolts each side.
6 With the help of an assistant, remove the
stay, unscrew the four bolts and lift the
bonnet from the vehicle (see illustration).

Refitting and adjustment

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Position
the bonnet hinges within the outline marks
made during removal, but alter its position as
necessary to provide a uniform gap all round.
Adjust the rear height of the bonnet by
repositioning it on the hinges. Adjust the front
height by repositioning the lock with reference
to Section 9, and turn the rubber buffers on
the engine compartment front crosspanel up
or down to support the bonnet.
8 Ensure that the washer, wiring and earth
lead connections are cleanly and securely
made. Check the windscreen washer for
satisfactory operation on completion.

Bodywork and fittings 11•5

6.10B Rear (upper) bumper retaining nut

(Estate models)

6.10A Rear bumper retaining nuts

(Hatchback and Saloon models)

6.8 Rear bumper retaining screws

7.6 Bonnet removal

7.4 Bonnet hinge and earth lead

connection

6.12 Rear quarter bumper retaining screw

locations (arrowed)

6.10C Rear (lower) bumper retaining nut

(Estate models)

11

8

Bonnet release cable -
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 With the bonnet open, disconnect the cable
from the locating slot in the lock frame, then
release the inner cable nipple from the lock
(see illustration).
2 Working inside the vehicle, undo the four
retaining screws, and lower the bottom
shroud from the steering column.
3 Detach the inner cable nipple from the
release lever, then withdraw the cable through
the bulkhead (noting its routing) and remove it
from the engine compartment side (see
illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion, check that the bonnet catch and
release operate in a satisfactory manner.

9

Bonnet lock -
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 With the bonnet open, disconnect the cable
from the locating slot in the lock frame, then
release the inner cable nipple from the lock.
2 Unscrew the three retaining screws, and
remove the lock from the vehicle.

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the lock height so that the bonnet line is flush
with the front wings, and so that it shuts
securely without force. If necessary, adjust
the lock laterally so that the striker enters the
lock recess correctly; it may also be
necessary to reposition the striker.

10 Door inner trim panel -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 On models fitted with manual window
regulators, fully shut the window, note the
position of the regulator handle, then release
the spring clip and withdraw the handle. The
clip can be released by inserting a clean cloth
between the handle and the door trim, and
pulling the cloth back against the open ends
of the clip to release its tension whilst simulta-
neously pulling the handle from the regulator
shaft splines (see illustrations).
2 Prise free the trim capping from the door
handle, taking care not to break the single
retaining clip, then undo the retaining screws
and remove the handle (see illustrations).
3 Undo the retaining screw from the inner
door handle bezel, then slide free and remove
the bezel (see illustrations).
4 Unscrew and remove the door trim panel

11•6 Bodywork and fittings

10.3B . . . and remove the bezel

10.3A Undo the retaining screw . . .

10.2B . . . and undo the handle retaining

screws

10.2A Remove the door handle trim

capping . . .

10.1B . . . and withdraw the manual

window regulator handle

10.1A Release the regulator retaining clip

as shown . . .

8.3 Detach the cable from the bonnet

release lever on the steering column

8.1 Bonnet release cable and lock

retaining screws (see illustration), lift the
panel to disengage it from the top edge clips
(along the window edge), then remove the
panel.
5 If required (and where fitted), the door
pocket can be detached from the trim panel
by unscrewing the three retaining screws, one
of which is fitted from the inside-out. If an
ashtray is fitted to the trim, it can be removed
by carefully prising it free. If the door lock
inner release or other internal components of
the door are to be inspected or removed, first
withdraw the bezel from the inner door
release, then remove the insulation sheet from
the door as follows.
6 Access to the inner door can be made by
carefully extracting the insulator from the
inner release, then peeling back the insulation
sheet. In order not to damage and distort the
insulation sheet, use a suitable knife to cut
through the peripheral adhesive strip whilst
the sheet is progressively peeled back and
away from the door. Avoid touching the strip
with the hands, as skin oils will adversely
affect its adhesive properties (see
illustrations).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where
necessary, apply suitable mastic to the door
panel before fitting the insulation sheet. When
the door trim panel is refitted, check the
operation of the door catch release and the
window regulator (where applicable).

11 Door window glass -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

Front door window glass (Hatchback,
Saloon, Estate and Van models)

1 Remove the inner trim panel and the
insulation sheet from the door as described in
Section 10.
2 Prise free the inner and outer weatherstrips
from the bottom of the window aperture in the
door (see illustration).
3 Wind the window up to close it, then have
an assistant hold the window firmly in this
position whilst you unscrew the window-to-
regulator retaining screws through the
aperture in the inner door (see illustration).
4 Lower the window regulator, then tilting the
window as required, withdraw it outwards
from the door (see illustration).

Front door window glass (Cabriolet
models)

5 Remove the inner trim panel and the
insulation sheet from the door as described in
Section 10.
6 Wind down the window in the door, then
prise free the inner and outer weatherstrips
from the bottom of the window aperture in the
door.

7 Undo the three retaining screws, partially
withdraw the door-mounted speaker so that
its wiring connections can be detached, then
remove the speaker.
8 Undo the door mirror trim screw, remove
the trim panel and then detach the mirror
adjuster multi-plug.
9 Lower the window in the door, then
unscrew the small slider bolt (see
illustration).
10 Raise the door glass, undo the large slider
bolts, support the window regulator, and
unscrew the three regulator retaining bolts
(see illustration).
11 Lower the regulator and detach the
regulator wiring multi-plug.
12 Move the glass rearwards to disengage it

Bodywork and fittings 11•7

10.6B Cut through the adhesive to remove

the door insulation sheet

10.6A Remove the insulation surrounding

the inner release handle

10.4 Door trim retaining screws (arrowed)

11.9 Location of small slider bolt (arrowed)

in front door of Cabriolet models

11.2 Remove the weatherstrips from the

door

11.4 Removing a door window glass

11.3 Undo the glass-to-regulator screws

through apertures shown

11