Ford Orion. Manual — part 25

7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides
must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance,
and compare the result with the specified
value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9 The renewal of valve guides is best carried
out by an engine overhaul specialist.
10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only after the guides have been
renewed.

Valves

11 Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and
check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points, using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
only should be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should not be used unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the
cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-

cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert, is required.
14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grinding
compound (see illustration). A light spring
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation.
16 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound, using paraffin or a suitable solvent,
before reassembly of the cylinder head.

Valve components

18 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discolouration, and also measure

their free length (see illustration). If possible,
compare each of the existing springs with a
new component.
19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted, or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete set of new springs.
20 Check the spring upper seats and collets
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation. Any damaged or
excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed.
21 Check the rocker gear components and
hydraulic tappets as described in earlier parts
of this Chapter according to engine type.

10 Cylinder head - reassembly

4

1 Before reassembling the cylinder head, ensure
that it is perfectly clean, and no traces of grinding
paste are left in the head or on the valves and
guides. Use compressed air, if available, to blow
out all the oil holes and passages.
2 Commence reassembly of the cylinder
head by lubricating the valve stems and
guides with clean engine oil.

HCS engine

3 Insert the first valve into its guide. Wipe the
oil from the top of the valve stem, then wind
some insulation tape over the split collet
location groove, to protect the new valve stem
seal as it is fitted over the valve and into
position. As the seal is fitted, support the
valve to prevent it from falling out; push the
seal down the valve, and locate it flush to the
valve guide. Press the seal down firmly and
evenly using a suitable diameter tube or
socket, and take care not to distort the seal as
it is located. Check that the seal spring is
correctly located to ensure that it seals
correctly, then remove the tape from the valve
stem (see illustrations).
4 Locate the valve spring and its retainer over
the valve stem, and engage the valve spring

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•17

9.15 Grinding-in a valve seat - do not grind

in the valves any more than absolutely

necessary, or their seats will be

prematurely sunk into the cylinder head

9.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve

stem - if any significant difference is found

in the readings obtained, excessive valve

stem wear is indicated

10.3A Tape the end of the valve stem

before fitting the valve stem seal

9.18 Checking the valve spring free length

2D

compressor. Compress the spring and
retainer just enough to allow the split collets
to be inserted in the location groove in the
valve stem. Holding the collets in position,
slowly release and remove the valve spring
compressor.

5 Repeat the operation on the remaining
valves, ensuring that each valve is fitted in its
appropriate location.
6 On completion, support the cylinder head
on a suitable piece of wood, and lightly strike
the end of each valve stem in turn with a

plastic- or copper-faced hammer to
fractionally open the valve and seat the valve
components.

CVH engine

7 Working on one valve at a time, fit the lower
retainer into position (see illustration).
8 Check for correct orientation, then fit the
new oil seal into position over the guide. Drive
or press the seal squarely into place, using a
suitable tube or socket (see illustration).
9 To protect the seal lips from being
damaged by the collet grooves in the valve
stem as it is passed through the seal, wipe
any oil from the stem at the top, and mask the
split collet groove on the stem with insulating
tape. Lubricate the lips of the valve stem seal,
and insert the valve (see illustration).
10 Remove the tape from the grooved
section of the valve stem, then locate the
spring and the upper retainer over the valve
(see illustrations).
11 Locate the valve spring compressor into
position, and compress the spring and cup
down the valve stem so that the collet’s
groove is exposed above the upper retainer.
Lightly grease the collet’s groove in the stem,
(to retain the collets in position) then locate
the split collets into the groove in the stem.
Slowly release and remove the valve spring
compressor. As the compressor is released,
ensure that the collets remain fully seated in
the groove, and the upper retainer rides up

over them to secure them in position (see
illustration).
12 Repeat the above operations on the
remaining valves, ensuring that each valve
assembly is returned to its original position, or
where new valves have been fitted, onto the
seat to which it was ground.
13 When all of the valves have been fitted,
support the cylinder head on a wooden block,
and using a plastic or copper-faced hammer,
lightly tap the end of each valve stem
in turn to seat the respective valve
assemblies.
14 Refit the camshaft, tappets and rocker
arms to the cylinder head as described in
Section 13 of Part B.

Zetec engine

15 Beginning at one end of the head,
lubricate and install the first valve. Apply
molybdenum disulphide-based grease or
clean engine oil to the valve stem, and refit the
valve. Where the original valves are being re-
used, ensure that each is refitted in its original
guide. If new valves are being fitted, insert
them into the locations to which they have
been ground.
16 Fit the plastic protector supplied with new
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to the
end of the valve stem, then put the new seal
squarely on top of the guide, and leave it
there; the action of refitting the valve spring

2D•18 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

10.11 Insert the split collets into the

groove in the valve stem

10.10B . . . and the retainer

10.10A Fit the spring . . .

10.9 Insert the valve . . .

10.8 Locate the seal, and tap it into

position over the guide

10.7 Fit the lower retainer

10.3B Press the seal into position using a

suitable socket

A little grease applied to the
collet groove will help retain
them in position.

presses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place
(see illustration).
17 Refit the valve spring and upper seat.
18 Compress the spring with a valve spring
compressor, and carefully install the collets in
the stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease
to each collet to hold it in place if necessary
(see illustration). Slowly release the
compressor, and make sure the collets seat
properly.
19 When the valve is installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of the valve stem gently, to settle the
components.
20 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Be sure to return the components to
their original locations - don’t mix them up!
21 Refit the hydraulic tappets (Part C of this
Chapter, Section 13).

11 Camshaft and tappets -

removal, inspection and
refitting (HCS engine)

3

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, Section 10.
2 Remove the timing chain and the camshaft
sprocket as described in Part A, Section 13.
3 Remove the sump as described in Part A,
Section 14.

4 Invert the engine so that it is supported on
its cylinder head face (on a clean work area).
This is necessary to make all of the tappets
slide to the top of their stroke, thus allowing
the camshaft to be withdrawn. Rotate the
camshaft through a full turn, to ensure that all
of the tappets slide up their bores, clear of the
camshaft.
5 Before removing the camshaft, check its
endfloat using a dial gauge mounted on the
front face of the engine or feeler gauges. Pull
the camshaft fully towards the front (timing
case) end of the engine, then insert feeler
gauges between the camshaft sprocket
flange and the camshaft thrust plate to
assess the endfloat clearance (see
illustration). The camshaft endfloat must be
as specified.
6 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the camshaft thrust plate.
7 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
front end of the engine (see illustration).
8 Extract each tappet in turn. Keep them in
order of fitting by inserting them in a card with
eight holes in it, numbered 1 to 8 (from the
timing case end of the engine). A valve
grinding tool will be found to be useful for the
removal of tappets (see illustration).

Inspection

9 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and
lobes for damage or excessive wear. If
evident, the camshaft must be renewed.

10 Examine the camshaft bearing internal
diameters for signs of damage or excessive
wear. If evident, the bearings must be
renewed by a Ford dealer.
11 If not carried out on removal, check the
camshaft endfloat as described in para-
graph 5. If the endfloat is exceeds the
specified tolerance, renew the thrust plate.
12 It is seldom that the tappets wear
excessively in their bores, but it is likely that
after a high mileage, the cam lobe contact
surfaces will show signs of depression or
grooving.
13 Where this condition is evident, renew the
tappets. Grinding out the grooves and wear
marks will reduce the thickness of the surface
hardening, and will accelerate further wear.

Refitting

14 To refit the tappets and the camshaft, it is
essential that the crankcase is inverted.
15 Lubricate their bores and the tappets.
Insert each tappet fully into its original bore in
the cylinder block.
16 Lubricate the camshaft bearings,
camshaft and thrust plate, then insert the
camshaft into the crankcase from the timing
case end.
17 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting
(see illustration). Check that the camshaft is
able to rotate freely, and that the endfloat is as
specified.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•19

11.5 Checking the camshaft endfloat

10.18 Apply a small dab of grease to each

collet before installation - it will hold them

in place on the valve stem until the spring

is released

10.16 Valve spring pressure is sufficient to

seat lower seat/stem oil seals on

reassembly

11.17 Refitting the camshaft thrust plate

11.8 Tappet withdrawal using a valve

grinding tool suction cup

11.7 Withdrawing the camshaft from the

front of the engine

2D

12 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - removal

4

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1. A Ford
dealer, or a good engine reconditioning
specialist/automotive parts supplier, may be
able to suggest alternatives which will enable
you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

HCS engine

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, Section 10.
2 Remove the sump as described in Part A,
Section 14, then remove the oil pick-up pipe
and strainer.
3 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that
the connecting rod big-end caps have adjacent
matching numbers facing towards the
camshaft side of the engine. If no marks can be
seen, make your own before disturbing any of
the components, so that you can be certain of
refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly
the right way round, to its correct (original)
bore, with the cap also the right way round.

CVH engine

4 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part B, Section 14.
5 Remove the sump as described in Part B,
Section 15, then remove the oil pick-up pipe
and strainer.
6 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that
the connecting rods have identification
numbers - these should be found on the
exhaust side of the big-ends. No 1 assembly
is at the timing belt end of the engine. If no
marks can be seen, make your own before
disturbing any of the components, so that you
can be certain of refitting each
piston/connecting rod assembly the right way
round, to its correct (original) bore, with the
cap also the right way round.

Zetec engine

Note: While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. In addition to the new gaskets and other
replacement parts required, a hoist will be
needed. Alternatively, an adjustable engine
support bar, fitting into the water drain
channels on each side of the bonnet aperture,
and having a hook which will engage the engine
lifting eyes and allow the height of the engine to
be adjusted, could be used. Lifting equipment
such as this can be hired from most tool hire
shops - be sure that any such equipment is
rated well in excess of the combined weight of
the engine/transmission unit.

7 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part C, Section 14.
8 Bolt lifting eyes to suitable points on the
engine and transmission, then attach the
lifting equipment so that the engine/
transmission unit is supported securely.
9 Remove the sump as described in Part C,
Section 15.
10 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see
illustration).
11 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that
each piston/connecting rod assembly can be
identified by its cylinder number (counting
from the timing belt end of the engine) etched
into the flat-machined surface of both the
connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are
visible from the front (exhaust side) of the
engine (see illustration). Furthermore, each
piston has an arrow stamped into its crown,
pointing towards the timing belt end of the
engine. If no marks can be seen, make your
own before disturbing any of the components,
so that you can be certain of refitting each
piston/connecting rod assembly the right way
round, to its correct (original) bore, with the
cap also the right way round.

All engines

12 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has
formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a
quarter-inch down from the top of each
cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear
have produced ridges, they must be
completely removed with a special tool.
Follow the tool manufacturer’s manuals
provided. Failure to remove the ridges before
attempting to remove the piston/connecting
rod assemblies may result in piston ring
breakage.
13 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap
bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be
removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and
bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the
cap.
14 Remove the upper bearing shell, and push
the connecting rod/piston assembly out
through the top of the engine. Use a wooden
hammer handle to push on the connecting
rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,

double-check that all of the ridge was
removed from the cylinder.
15 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
16 After removal, reassemble the big-end
bearing caps and shells on their respective
connecting rods, and refit the bolts finger-
tight. Leaving the old shells in place until
reassembly will help prevent the bearing
recesses from being accidentally nicked or
gouged. New shells should be used on
reassembly.

13 Crankshaft - removal

4

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine has been removed from the
vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission,
flywheel/driveplate, timing belt/chain, cylinder
head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer, oil
baffle, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod
assemblies, have already been removed. The
crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier/housing
must be unbolted from the cylinder
block/crankcase before proceeding with
crankshaft removal.
1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,
or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the
crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft
(see illustration).

2D•20 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

13.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a

dial gauge

12.11 Each connecting rod and big-end

bearing cap will have a flat-machined

surface visible from the front (exhaust)

side of the engine, with the cylinder

number etched in it

12.10 Removing the oil baffle to provide

access to crankshaft and bearings