Ford Orion. Manual — part 69

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Fault Finding

Automatic transmission

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.

Fluid leakage

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Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by airflow.

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To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
a) Transmission fluid sump (Chapters 1 and 7B).
b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7B).
c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
d) Speedometer drive pinion O-ring.
e) Differential output fluid seals (Chapter 7B).

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell

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Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).

General gear selection problems

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Chapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable:

a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than

the one actually being used.

c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
Refer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed

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Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).

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Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).

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Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6).

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral

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Incorrect selector lever position sensor adjustment (Chapter 7B).

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Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).

Transmission slips, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears

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There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists, professional
help will be necessary.

Braking system

Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in
an unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the Anti-lock Braking
System (ABS) should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking

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Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads/shoes on one side (Chapter 1).

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Seized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper/wheel cylinder
piston (Chapter 9).

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A mixture of brake lining materials fitted between sides Chapter 1).

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Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).

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Rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).

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Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapter 10).

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when
brakes applied

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Brake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal
backing Chapter 1).

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Excessive corrosion of brake disc or drum (may be apparent after
the vehicle has been standing for some time) (Chapter 1).

Brakes binding

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Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).

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Faulty handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).

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Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Rear wheels locking under normal braking

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Rear brake pad/shoe linings contaminated (Chapter 1).

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Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal travel

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Inoperative rear brake self-adjust mechanism (Chapter 9).

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Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

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Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

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Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).

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Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapter 9).

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Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).

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Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop
vehicle

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Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).

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Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapter 9).

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Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).

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Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).

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Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted (Chapter 9).

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Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted (Chapter 1).

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Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapter 1).

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking

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Excessive run-out or distortion of front discs or rear discs/drums
Chapter 9).

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Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn (Chapter 1).

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Brake caliper or rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose
(Chapter 9).

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Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings (Chapter 10).

REF•14

Fault Finding

Suspension and steering systems

Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that
the trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre
types, or binding brakes.

Vehicle pulls to one side

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Defective tyre (Chapter 1).

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Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10).

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Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

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Accident damage to steering or suspension components (Chapter 10).

Wheel wobble and vibration

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Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the
steering wheel) (Chapter 1).

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Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the
vehicle) Chapter 1).

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Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapter 1).

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Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).

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Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

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Roadwheel nuts loose (Chapter 1).

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Wear in driveshaft joint, or loose driveshaft nut (vibration worst
when under load) (Chapter 8).

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or
during braking

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Defective shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

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Broken or weak coil/leaf spring and/or suspension component
(Chapter 10).

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Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 10).

Excessive play in steering

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Worn steering column universal joint(s) or flexible coupling
(Chapter 10).

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Worn steering track-rod end balljoints (Chapter 10).

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Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).

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Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

Lack of power assistance

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Broken or slipping auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).

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Incorrect power steering fluid level (Chapter 1).

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Restriction in power steering fluid hoses (Chapter 10).

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Faulty power steering pump (Chapter 10).

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Faulty rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).

Wandering or general instability

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Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

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Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

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Roadwheels out of balance (Chapter 1).

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Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).

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Roadwheel nuts loose (Chapter 1).

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Defective shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

Excessively-stiff steering

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Lack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 10).

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Seized track-rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapter 10).

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Broken or slipping auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).

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Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

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Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

Tyre wear excessive

Tyres worn on inside or outside edges

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Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (Chapter 1).

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Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only)
(Chapter 10).

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Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

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Excessively-hard cornering.

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Accident damage.

Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges

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Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in centre of tread

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Tyres over-inflated (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn on inside and outside edges

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Tyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn unevenly

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Tyres out of balance (Chapter 1).

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Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1).

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Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

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Faulty tyre (Chapter 1).

Electrical system

Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the
faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few
days

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Battery defective internally (Chapter 5).

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Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1).

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Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).

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Auxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).

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Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).

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Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).

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Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5
and 12).

Ignition (no-charge) warning light remains
illuminated with engine running

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Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).

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Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).

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Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).

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Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).

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Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5).

Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on

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Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).

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Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
(Chapters 5 and 12).

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Alternator faulty (Chapter 5).

REF•15

REF

Fault Finding

Lights inoperative

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Bulb blown (Chapter 12).

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Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).

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Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

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Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

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Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).

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Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Instrument readings increase with engine speed

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Faulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading

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Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).

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Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).

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Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading

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Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).

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Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).

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Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Horn fails to operate

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Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

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Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 12).

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Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound

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Cable connections loose (Chapter 12).

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Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).

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Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn operates all the time

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Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12).

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Horn cable to horn push earthed (Chapter 12).

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative or
unsatisfactory in operation

Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly

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Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding (Chapter 12).

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Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

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Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 12).

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Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

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Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass

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Wiper arms incorrectly-positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).

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Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 1).

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Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively

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Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (Chapter 1).

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Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 1).

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Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film Chapter 1).

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation

One or more washer jets inoperative

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Blocked washer jet (Chapter 1).

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Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 1).

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Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Chapter 1).

Washer pump fails to operate

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Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

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Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

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Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12).

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Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).

Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets

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Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).

Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation

Window glass will only move in one direction

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Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Window glass slow to move

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Incorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11).

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Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chap-
ter 11).

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Door internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).

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Faulty motor (Chapter 12).

Window glass fails to move

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Incorrectly-adjusted door glass guide channels (Chapter 11).

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Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

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Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

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Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

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Faulty motor (Chapter 12).

Central locking system inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation

Complete system failure

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Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

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Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

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Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not
lock

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Faulty master switch (Chapter 11).

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Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chap-
ter 11).

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Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

One lock motor fails to operate

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Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).

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Faulty lock motor (Chapter 11).

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Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11).

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Fault in door latch (Chapter 11).

REF•16

Buying spare parts & vehicle identification numbers

Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from many

sources; for example, Ford garages, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare part
sources is as follows.

Officially-appointed Ford garages - This is

the best source for parts which are peculiar to
your vehicle and are not generally available
(eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox
components, badges, interior trim etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty. To
be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it will be
necessary to give the storeman the vehicle
identification number, and if possible, take the
old parts along for positive identification.
Many parts are available under a factory
exchange scheme - any parts returned should
always be clean. It obviously makes good
sense to go straight to the specialists on your
vehicle for this type of part, as they are best
equipped to supply you.

Other garages and accessory shops - These

are often very good places to buy the
materials and components required for the

maintenance of your vehicle (eg oil filters,
spark plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and
greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc).
They also sell general accessories, usually
have convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices and can often be found not far from
home.

Motor factors - Good factors will stock all

the more important components which wear
out comparatively quickly (eg exhaust
systems, brake pads, seals and hydraulic
parts, clutch components, bearing shells,
pistons, valves etc). Motor factors will often
provide new or reconditioned components on
a part exchange basis - this can save a
considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers

Modifications are a continuing and

unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
identification numbers being essential to
correct identification of the component
concerned.

When ordering spare parts, always give as

much information as possible. Quote the
vehicle model, year of manufacture, body and
engine numbers as appropriate.

The vehicle identification plate is located on

the top of the front crossmember in the
engine compartment (see illustration). In
addition to many other details, it carries the
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), maximum
vehicle weight information, and codes for
interior trim and body colours.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is

given on the vehicle identification plate. It is
also located in a recess in the floor to the
right-hand side of the driver’s seat, access
being gained after lifting the aperture cover
(see illustration).

The body number and paint code numbers

are located on the vehicle identification plate.

The engine number location is dependent

on the engine type. On the HCS (OHV) engine,
it is stamped on the front left-hand side of the
cylinder block towards the transmission
(facing the radiator) (see illustration). On the
CVH (OHC) engine, the location of the engine
number is dependent on the equipment fitted,
but is on the exhaust side of the engine,
facing either towards the timing belt end or
the transmission end (see illustration). On
the Zetec engine, the number can be found on
the forward-facing side of the cylinder block,
level with the starter motor, or on the cylinder
head just above the thermostat housing (see
illustrations).

CVH engine identification number location

is on (A) the right-hand side or (B) the left-

hand side, according to model and

equipment

Zetec engine identification number on

forward-facing side of cylinder block level

with the starter motor (A), or on cylinder

head just above thermostat housing (B)

HCS engine identification numbers

location

A Engine code (side or upper face)
B Serial number

Chassis number etched into the floor to

the right-hand side of the driver’s seat

Vehicle identification plate