Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Manual — part 47

On all models, the steering is of

conventional rack-and-pinion type,
incorporating a safety system of convoluted
column tube and double universally-jointed
lower steering shaft links.

The steering column tube is supported at its

upper end by bracketry, and at its lower end by
a nylon support bush. The steering shaft is
supported within the column tube by two
support bearings, one at either end of the tube.

The steering rack assembly is located on

the bulkhead. Steering input is transmitted,
via the steering shaft, to the pinion which
meshes with the teeth on the rack.

The pinion transferring the steering input

moves the rack within its housing tube,
withdrawing and extending the track rods
attached to either end of the rack by balljoints.
This movement is transferred, by balljoints in
the track rod ends, to the steering arms on the

spindle carriers which direct the roadwheels.

From the 1994 model year onwards, power

steering is available as standard or optional
equipment on certain models.

2

Front spindle carrier -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

Note: A new hub/driveshaft retaining nut will
be required for refitting.
1 Remove the wheel trim from the front
roadwheel on the side concerned, then using
a small pin punch, peen back the locking
portion of the front hub/driveshaft nut. Loosen
off the nut about half-a-turn.
2 Loosen off the front roadwheel retaining
nuts on the side concerned.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate roadwheel, and unscrew and
remove the hub/driveshaft retaining nut and
washer.
4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and detach the
brake hose and its locating bracket from the
suspension strut (see illustration).
5 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the brake caliper and anchor bracket from the
spindle carrier. Support the caliper by
suspending it from above, to prevent the
hydraulic hose from being strained or distorted.

6 Remove the single screw securing the
brake disc to the hub, and slide the disc off
the wheel studs.
7 On pre-June 1990 models, fabricate a
home-made bracket to secure the wheel hub
and brake disc to the spindle carrier (see
illustration). Retain the bracket at one end
with a wheel nut and at the other end with a
brake caliper retaining bolt. This will prevent
the hub and disc from becoming detached
from the spindle carrier (with possible damage
to the hub bearings) when the driveshaft is
removed. On later models the hub is an
interference fit in the bearing inner races and
is unlikely to become detached.
8 Where an anti-roll bar is fitted, undo the nut
securing the connecting link to the
suspension strut bracket, and separate the
link from the strut bracket.
9 Detach the track rod end balljoint from the
steering arm on the side concerned as
described in Section 28.
10 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the
spindle carrier to the suspension strut (see
illustration).
11 Remove the Torx-head pinch-bolt and nut
securing the lower suspension arm balljoint to
the spindle carrier. Prise open the joint using a
large screwdriver and detach the balljoint from
the spindle carrier unit (see illustrations).
12 Using a small crowbar with a thin tip, or a
stout screwdriver as an alternative, lever the
spindle carrier slot to separate the spindle
carrier from the suspension strut (see
illustration). Lower the spindle carrier slightly

10•4 Suspension and steering

2.12 Separate the spindle carrier from the

strut

2.11c . . . and detach the lower arm

balljoint from the spindle carrier

2.11b . . . prise open the joint . . .

2.11a Remove the lower arm-to-spindle

carrier pinch bolt and nut . . .

2.10 Remove the suspension strut-to-

spindle carrier pinch bolt

2.7 Securing the hub to the spindle carrier

using a home-made bracket

2.4 Disconnect the brake hose from the

front suspension strut

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

(tapping it down with a soft-faced mallet if
necessary) and carefully pull it off the
driveshaft, having supported the driveshaft to
prevent damage to the CV joints - the
driveshaft must not be bent at an angle
greater than 20° from the horizontal. If the
driveshaft is tight in the hub, lightly tap its
outer end with a soft-faced hammer, or use a
conventional puller and spacer to free it.
Remove the dust sleeve from the inner rim
groove of the spindle carrier.

Refitting

13 Fit the dust sleeve to its groove, then
locate the spindle carrier over the driveshaft.
Draw the driveshaft CV joint through the hub
using the old retaining nut and washer.
14 Lever the spindle carrier slot open and
refit the spindle carrier to the suspension
strut. Remove the lever, refit the pinch-bolt
and tighten it to the specified torque.
15 Fit a new hub/driveshaft nut and washer,
and tighten the nut as much possible at this
stage. As the nut is being tightened, rotate the
hub to ensure that the bearings seat correctly.
16 Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering arm on the spindle carrier, tighten the
nut to the specified torque and insert a new
split-pin to secure.
17 Reconnect the lower suspension arm
balljoint to the spindle carrier, refit the pinch-
bolt and nut, and tighten to the specified
torque. Note that the bolt must locate in the
annular groove on the ballstud (see
illustration).
18 Remove the bracket securing the hub to
the spindle carrier (where applicable), refit the
brake disc and tighten the single screw
securing the disc to the hub.
19 Refit the brake caliper and anchor bracket
to the spindle carrier, tightening the bolts to
the specified torque (see Chapter 9).
20 Refit the bolt securing the brake hose
bracket to the front suspension strut.
21 Where an anti-roll bar is fitted, refit the
connecting link to the suspension strut
bracket.
22 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, then tighten the hub nut to the
specified torque. Using a pin punch, stake-

lock the nut in the groove in the end of the
axle stub.
23 Tighten the roadwheel nuts to the
specified torque setting.

3

Front hub bearings -
renewal

4

Note: The front hub bearings should only be
removed from the spindle carrier if they are to
be renewed. The removal procedure renders
the bearings unserviceable, and they must not
be re-used. Prior to dismantling, it should be
noted that a hub/bearing puller and an
assortment of metal tubes of various
diameters (and preferably, a press) will be
required. Unless these tools are available, the
renewal of the hub bearings will have to be
entrusted to a Ford garage. Under no
circumstances attempt to tap the hub
bearings into position, as this will render them
unserviceable.

Pre-June 1990 models

1 Remove the spindle carrier from the vehicle
as described in Section 2.
2 Remove the home-made bracket used to
retain the hub in place and slide the hub out of
the spindle carrier assembly.
3 Securely support the spindle carrier in a
vice with its inner face uppermost.
4 Using a suitable punch, tap the outer
bearing outer race at diametrically-opposed
points and remove the bearing assembly from
the spindle carrier (see illustration). Do not
allow the bearing to tilt during its withdrawal
from the housing, or it will jam and possibly
damage the surface of the bore. Any burrs left
in a bearing bore will prevent the new bearing
from seating correctly.
5 Turn the spindle carrier over and remove
the inner bearing assembly in the same way.
6 Thoroughly clean the bearing bore and hub,
then secure the spindle carrier in the vice in an
upright position.
7 Press the new outer bearing assembly into
the spindle carrier using a length of metal tube
of diameter slightly less than the outer race.

Do not apply any pressure to the inner race.
Alternatively, a long threaded rod or bolt, a nut
and large flat washers may be used to draw
the bearing into position (see illustration).
Once the bearing has been installed, take care
not to dislodge the inner race and seal.
8 Using the same method as for the outer
bearing, draw in the new inner bearing
assembly from the other side of the spindle
carrier. Again, take care not to dislodge the
inner race and seal once the bearing is in
position.
9 Support the inner bearing inner race on a
length of metal tube, and draw the hub fully
into the bearings using the same tooling
arrangement as before. It may even be
possible to insert the hub using firm hand
pressure only, but make sure that the inner
bearing inner race is well supported.
10 Fit the home-made bracket to secure the
hub into the spindle carrier, dismantling the
service tools or equivalent as necessary.
Ensure that the hub and spindle carrier do not
become separated at any time, as this will
displace the bearings seals and lead to
premature bearing failure.
11 The assembly can now be refitted to the
vehicle, as described in the previous Section.

June 1990 models onward

Note: On these later models, the bearing’s
inner races are an interference fit on the hub.
During removal of the hub from the spindle
carrier, the outer bearing inner race will remain
in position on the hub and a knife-edged
bearing puller will be required to remove it.
12 Remove the spindle carrier from the
vehicle as described in Section 2.
13 The hub must now be removed from the
bearing inner races. It is preferable to use a
press to do this, but it is possible to drive out
the hub using a length of metal tube of
suitable diameter.
14 Part of the inner race will remain on the
hub, and this should be removed using a
knife-edged puller.
15 Securely support the spindle carrier in a
vice with its inner face uppermost.

Suspension and steering 10•5

3.7 Using home-made tools to fit the outer

bearing assembly to the spindle carrier

A Steel tube
B Spindle carrier
C Bearing

D Steel tube
E Flat washer
F Threaded bolt

3.4 Using a punch to remove the hub

bearing outer race from the spindle carrier

2.17 Lower suspension arm balljoint

showing annular groove (arrowed)

10

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

16 Using a suitable punch, tap the outer
bearing outer race at diametrically-opposed
points and remove the bearing assembly from
the spindle carrier. Do not allow the bearing to
tilt during its withdrawal from the housing, or it
will jam and possibly damage the surface of
the bore. Any burrs left in a bearing bore will
prevent the new bearing from seating
correctly.
17 Turn the spindle carrier over and remove
the inner bearing assembly in the same way.
18 Thoroughly clean the bearing bore and
hub, then secure the spindle carrier in the vice
in an upright position.
19 Draw the new outer bearing assembly into
the spindle carrier using a length of metal tube
of diameter slightly less than the outer race.
Do not apply any pressure to the inner race.
Alternatively, a long threaded rod or bolt, a nut
and large flat washers may be used to draw
the bearing into position (see illustration 3.7).
Once the bearing has been installed, take care
not to dislodge the inner race and seal.
20 Using the same method as for the outer
bearing, draw in the new inner bearing
assembly from the other side of the spindle
carrier. Again, take care not to dislodge the
inner race and seal once the bearing is in
position.
21 Using the same tooling arrangement as
before, and with the metal tube or washers
contacting the inner bearing inner race, draw
the hub fully into the bearings. Alternatively, if
a press is available, support the hub face
down on the press bed and using a metal tube
in contact with the inner bearing inner race,
press the spindle carrier onto the hub.
22 Check that the hub spins freely in the
bearings, then refit the spindle carrier as
described in Section 2.

4

Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Open and support the bonnet. Prise free
the protective cap from the suspension strut
top-mount retaining nut, then slacken the nut,
but do not remove it at this stage (see
illustrations). Hold the strut piston rod with
an Allen key to prevent the rod from turning as
the nut is slackened.
3 Detach the front brake hose from the
support bracket on the strut.
4 Where applicable, unbolt and detach the
anti-roll bar connecting link from the strut
bracket.
5 Undo the two bolts securing the front brake
caliper anchor bracket to the spindle carrier.
Slide the caliper assembly, complete with
brake pads off the disc and spindle carrier
and suspend the caliper within the wheelarch
with a length of strong wire, to prevent the
flexible brake hose from straining.
6 Unscrew and remove the strut-to-spindle
carrier pinch-bolt.
7 Prise open the spindle carrier-to-strut joint
using a stout screwdriver, and separate the
carrier from the strut. Tap the carrier
downwards using a soft-faced hammer to
release it from the strut if necessary. Once the
two components are separated, support the
lower suspension arm to avoid straining the
CV joints.

8 Support the weight of the strut underneath,
and unscrew the previously slackened top-
mount retaining nut and lift off the upper cup
seat mounting. Lower the strut and remove it
from under the wheel arch.

Refitting

9 Locate the strut through the wheel arch and
refit the upper cup seat mounting and top-
mount retaining nut. Do not tighten the nut at
this stage.
10 Apply leverage to the spindle carrier slot
so that the spindle carrier can be refitted to
the base of the suspension strut. Refit the
suspension strut to spindle carrier pinch-bolt
and tighten to the specified torque.
11 Tighten the suspension strut top-mount
retaining nut to the specified torque, using an
Allen key to prevent the piston rod from
rotating. The final torque will have to be
applied without the use of the Allen key unless
a suitable open-ended torque wrench adapter
is available. Refit the cap over the nut.
12 Refit the brake caliper assembly to the
spindle carrier, and tighten the caliper anchor
bracket bolts to the specified torque (see
Chapter 9).
13 Refit the bolt to secure the brake hose
bracket to the suspension strut, and fully
tighten.
14 Remove the support from under the lower
suspension arm.
15 Reconnect the anti-roll bar connecting
link to the strut bracket, where applicable,
tightening the nut to the specified torque.
16 Refit the roadwheel, remove the axle
stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
17 Tighten the roadwheel nuts according to
the specified torque.

5

Front suspension strut -
dismantling, examination and
reassembly

4

Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the suspension strut,
a suitable tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be

obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors which can be positively
secured to the spring coils are readily
available, and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the
strut without such a tool is likely to result
in damage or personal injury.

Dismantling

1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,
clean away all external dirt, then mount it
upright in a vice.
2 Fit the spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged) and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting (see illustration).
3 Remove the spring retaining nut, then
withdraw the lower cup seat mounting, thrust

10•6 Suspension and steering

5.2 Typical pair of coil spring compressors in use

4.2b Slackening the front suspension strut

top-mount retaining nut whilst preventing

the piston rod from turning

4.2a Removing cap from front suspension

strut top-mount retaining nut

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

bearing, upper spring seat, gaiter and
bump-stop from the piston rod (see
illustration).
4 The suspension strut and coil spring may
now be separated. If a new suspension strut
is to be fitted there is no need to release the
coil spring from compression, but if a new coil
spring is to be fitted, release the compressors
gently until the spring is in its released state,
then remove it.

Examination

5 With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine the mounting
components for wear, damage or
deformation. Renew any of the components
as necessary.
6 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage or corrosion. Test
the operation of the strut, holding it in an
upright position, by moving the piston through
a full stroke, and then through short strokes of
50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance
felt should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.

Reassembly

7 If a new spring is to be fitted, engage the

compressors as during removal, and
compress the spring sufficiently to enable
suspension strut reassembly.
8 Reunite the spring and suspension strut,
and refit the bump-stop gaiter, spring seat,
thrust bearing and lower cup seat mounting,
renewing components as necessary. Refit the
spring retaining nut and tighten to the
specified torque.
9 Carefully release the spring tension,
ensuring that the spring locates correctly into
its upper and lower spring seats (see
illustration).
10 Remove the spring compressors.
11 The rubber insulator fitted to the top of the
inner wing is a simple push fit, and is easily
replaceable. Ensure when replacing this,
that the lip sits evenly around the locating
hole.

6

Front suspension anti-roll
bar - removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front

suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
3 Undo the nut securing the upper end of the
anti-roll bar connecting link to the suspension
strut bracket, and disconnect the link (see
illustration).
4 Undo the nut securing the lower end of the
connecting link to the anti-roll bar, and
remove the link.
5 Remove the two bolts securing the anti-roll
bar brackets to each lower suspension arm
mounting bracket (see illustration), remove
the anti-roll bar brackets and withdraw the
anti-roll bar from the vehicle.
6 The rubber bushes locating the anti-roll bar
can be removed by sliding them off over the
link connections.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, tightening the retaining nuts to the
specified torque settings.

7

Front suspension
crossmember -
removal and refitting

2

Note: The front suspension crossmember is
only fitted to XR2i models.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners.
3 The crossmember, which serves as an
additional bracing component, is located
between the lower suspension arm mounting
brackets, and is secured to these brackets by
four bolts. To remove it, simply undo the four
bolts and lower it from the vehicle.

Refitting

4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal, ensuring that the bolts are tightened
to the specified torque.

Suspension and steering 10•7

5.9 Correct spring location in its lower

seat

5.3 Exploded view of front suspension strut assembly

6.5 Anti-roll bar bracket and mounting

bolts

6.3 Anti-roll bar connecting link-to-strut

connection

10

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

A Suspension strut
B Coil spring
C Bump-stop
D Gaiter
E Upper spring seat
F Thrust bearing
G Lower cup seat

mounting