Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Manual — part 20

2 If not already done, remove the inlet and
exhaust manifolds with reference to the
relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Proceed as follows according to engine
type.

HCS engines

4 Valve removal should commence with No 1
valve (nearest the timing chain end).
5 To remove the valve springs and valves
from the cylinder head, a standard valve
spring compressor will required. Fit the spring
compressor to the first valve and spring to be
removed. Take care not to damage the valve
stem with the compressor, and do not over-
compress the spring, or the valve stem may
bend. When tightening the compressor, it may
be found that the spring retainer does not
release and the collets are then difficult to
remove. In this instance, remove the
compressor, then press a piece of tube (or a
socket of suitable diameter) so that it does not
interfere with the removal of the collets,
against the retainer’s outer rim. Tap the tube
(or socket) with a hammer to unsettle the
components.
6 Refit the compressor, and wind it in to
enable the collets to be extracted (see
illustration).
7 Loosen off the compressor, and remove the
retainer and spring. Withdraw the valve from
the cylinder head (see illustrations).
8 Prise up and remove the valve stem seal.
9 Repeat the removal procedure with each of

the remaining seven valve assemblies in turn.
As they are removed, keep the individual
valves and their components together, and in
their respective order of fitting, by placing
them in a separate labelled bag (see
illustration).

CVH and PTE engines

10 Remove the camshaft, rocker arms and
tappets as described in Part B of this Chapter,
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described.
11 Valve removal should commence with
No 1 valve (nearest the timing belt end).
12 Using a standard valve spring com-
pressor, compress the valve spring (and
upper retainer) just enough to enable the split
collets to be released from the groove in the
top of the valve stem, then separate and
extract the split collets from the valve. Do not
compress the spring any further than is
necessary, or the valve stem may bend. If the
valve spring retainer does not release from the
collets as the spring is compressed, remove
the compressor, and position a piece of
suitable tube over the end of the retainer, so
that it does not impinge on the collets. Place a
small block of wood under the valve head
(with the head resting face down on the
workbench), then tap the end of the tube with
a hammer. Now refit the compressor tool, and
compress the valve spring. The collets should
release.
13 Extract the split collets, then slowly

unscrew, release and remove the compressor.
14 Withdraw the upper retainer and the valve
spring from the valve stem, then remove the
valve from the underside of the cylinder head.
Use a suitable screwdriver or pliers to prise
free and remove the valve stem oil seal from
the guide (see illustration).
15 Remove the lower retainer.
16 Repeat the removal procedure with each
of the remaining valve assemblies in turn. As
they are removed, keep the valves and their
associated components together, and in the
originally-installed order, by placing them in a
separate labelled bag (see illustration 7.9).

Zetec engines

17 Remove the camshafts and hydraulic
tappets as described in Part C of this Chapter,
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described.
18 Using a valve spring compressor,
compress each valve spring in turn until the
split collets can be removed. A special valve
spring compressor will be required, to reach
into the deep wells in the cylinder head
without risk of damaging the hydraulic tappet
bores; such compressors are now widely
available from most good motor accessory
shops. Release the compressor, and lift off
the spring upper seat and spring.
19 If, when the valve spring compressor is
screwed down, the spring upper seat refuses
to free and expose the split collets, gently tap
the top of the tool, directly over the upper
seat, with a light hammer. This will free the
seat.
20 Withdraw the valve through the
combustion chamber. If it binds in the guide
(won’t pull through), push it back in, and de-
burr the area around the collet groove with a
fine file or whetstone; take care not to mark
the hydraulic tappet bores.
21 Ford recommend the use of their service
tool 21-160 to extract the valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seals; while this is almost
indispensable if the seals are to be removed
without risk of damage to the cylinder head, a
serviceable substitute can be made from a
strong spring of suitable size. Screw on the
tool or spring so that it bites into the seal, then

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•13

7.7b . . . followed by the valve

7.7a Remove the valve spring retainer and

spring . . .

7.6 Compress the valve spring to remove

the collets

7.14 Prise off the valve stem oil seal

7.9 Use a labelled plastic bag to store and

identify valve components

2D

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

draw the seal off the valve guide (see
illustrations).
22 It is essential that the valves are kept
together with their collets, spring seats and
springs, and in their correct sequence (unless
they are so badly worn that they are to be
renewed). If they are going to be kept and
used again, place them in a labelled polythene
bag or similar small container (see illus-
tration 7.9). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to
the timing belt end of the engine.
23 If the oil-retaining valve is to be removed
(to flush out the cylinder head oil galleries
thoroughly), seek the advice of a Ford dealer
as to how it can be extracted; it may be
that the only course of action involves
destroying the valve as follows. Screw a self-
tapping screw into its ventilation hole, and use
the screw to provide purchase with which the
valve can be drawn out; a new valve must be
purchased and pressed into place on
reassembly

(see illustration).

8

Cylinder head and valve
components - cleaning and
inspection

4

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul. Note: If the

engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that the cylinder head is warped,
and to check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material and sealing compound from the
cylinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head gasket surface is
not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may
be possible to re-surface it.
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely

pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides
must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance,
and compare the result with the specified
value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9 The renewal of valve guides is best carried
out by an engine overhaul specialist.
10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only after the guides have been
renewed.

Valves

11 Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and
check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points, using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
only should be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should not be used unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the
cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-
cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert, is required.
14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a

2D•14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

8.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve

stem

8.6 Check the cylinder head gasket

surfaces for warpage, in the planes

indicated (A to G)

7.23 Cylinder head oil-retaining valve

(arrowed)

7.21b . . . can be replaced by home-made

tool if suitable spring can be found

7.21a Ford service tool in use to remove
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grinding
compound (see illustration). A light spring
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation.
16 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound, using paraffin or a suitable
solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder
head.

Valve components

18 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discolouration, and also measure
their free length (see illustration). If possible,
compare each of the existing springs with a
new component.
19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness. If any of the springs

are damaged, distorted, or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete set of new springs.
20 Check the spring upper seats and collets
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation. Any damaged or
excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed.
21 Check the rocker gear components and
hydraulic tappets as described in earlier parts
of this Chapter according to engine type.

9

Cylinder head - reassembly

4

1 Before reassembling the cylinder head, first
ensure that it is perfectly clean, and that no
traces of grinding paste are left in the head or
on the valves and guides. Use compressed
air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and
passages.
2 Commence reassembly of the cylinder
head by lubricating the valve stems and
guides with clean engine oil.

HCS engines

3 Insert the first valve into its guide. Wipe the
oil from the top of the valve stem, then wind
some insulation tape over the split collet
location groove, to protect the new valve stem
seal as it is fitted over the valve and into

position. As the seal is fitted, support the
valve to prevent it from falling out; push the
seal down the valve, and locate it flush to the
valve guide. Press the seal down firmly and
evenly using a suitable diameter tube or
socket, and take care not to distort the seal as
it is located. Check that the seal spring is
correctly located to ensure that it seals
correctly, then remove the tape from the valve
stem (see illustrations).
4 Locate the valve spring and its retainer over
the valve stem, and engage the valve spring
compressor. Compress the spring and
retainer just enough to allow the split collets
to be inserted in the location groove in the
valve stem. Holding the collets in position,
slowly release and remove the valve spring
compressor.

5 Repeat the operation on the remaining
valves, ensuring that each valve is fitted in its
appropriate location.
6 On completion, support the cylinder head
on a suitable piece of wood, and lightly strike
the end of each valve stem in turn with a
plastic- or copper-faced hammer to
fractionally open the valve and seat the valve
components.

CVH and PTE engines

7 Working on one valve at a time, fit the lower
retainer into position (see illustration).
8 Check for correct orientation, then fit the
new oil seal into position over the guide. Drive

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•15

9.3a Tape the end of the valve stem before

fitting the valve stem seal

8.18 Checking the valve spring free length

8.15 Grinding-in a valve seat

9.7 Fit the lower retainer

9.3b Press the seal into position using a

suitable socket

2D

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

A little grease applied to the collet
groove will help retain them in position.

or press the seal squarely into place, using a
suitable tube or socket (see illustration).
9 To protect the seal lips from being
damaged by the collet grooves in the valve
stem as it is passed through the seal, wipe
any oil from the stem at the top, and mask the
split collet groove on the stem with insulating
tape. Lubricate the lips of the valve stem seal,
and insert the valve (see illustration).
10 Remove the tape from the grooved
section of the valve stem, then locate the
spring and the upper retainer over the valve.
11 Locate the valve spring compressor into
position, and compress the spring and cup
down the valve stem so that the collet’s
groove is exposed above the upper retainer.
Lightly grease the collet’s groove in the stem,
(to retain the collets in position) then locate
the split collets into the groove in the stem.
Slowly release and remove the valve spring
compressor. As the compressor is released,
ensure that the collets remain fully seated in
the groove, and the upper retainer rides up
over them to secure them in position (see
illustration).
12 Repeat the above operations on the
remaining valves, ensuring that each valve
assembly is returned to its original position, or
where new valves have been fitted, onto the
seat to which it was ground.
13 When all of the valves have been fitted,
support the cylinder head on a wooden block,
and using a plastic or copper-faced hammer,
lightly tap the end of each valve stem in turn
to seat the respective valve assemblies.

14 Refit the camshaft, tappets and rocker
arms to the cylinder head as described in
Part B of this Chapter.

Zetec engines

15 Beginning at one end of the head,
lubricate and install the first valve. Apply
molybdenum disulphide-based grease or
clean engine oil to the valve stem, and refit the
valve. Where the original valves are being re-
used, ensure that each is refitted in its original
guide. If new valves are being fitted, insert
them into the locations to which they have
been ground.
16 Fit the plastic protector supplied with new
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to the
end of the valve stem, then put the new seal
squarely on top of the guide, and leave it
there; the action of refitting the valve spring
presses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place
(see illustration).
17 Refit the valve spring and upper seat.
18 Compress the spring with a valve spring
compressor, and carefully install the collets in
the stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease
to each collet to hold it in place if necessary.
Slowly release the compressor, and make
sure the collets seat properly.
19 When the valve is installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of the valve stem gently, to settle the
components.
20 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Be sure to return the components to

their original locations - don’t mix them up!
21 Refit the hydraulic tappets as described in
Part C of this Chapter.

10 Camshaft and tappets -

removal, inspection and
refitting (HCS engines)

3

Removal

1 Refer to the applicable Sections in Part A of
this Chapter and remove the cylinder head,
timing chain and camshaft sprocket, and the
sump.
2 Invert the engine so that it is supported on
its cylinder head face (on a clean work area).
This is necessary to make all of the tappets
slide to the top of their stroke, thus allowing
the camshaft to be withdrawn. Rotate the
camshaft through a full turn, to ensure that all
of the tappets slide up their bores, clear of the
camshaft.
3 Before removing the camshaft, check its
endfloat using a dial gauge mounted on the
front face of the engine or feeler gauges. Pull
the camshaft fully towards the front (timing
chain) end of the engine, then insert feeler
gauges between the camshaft sprocket flange
and the camshaft thrust plate to assess the
endfloat clearance (see illustration). The
camshaft endfloat must be as specified.
4 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the camshaft thrust plate.
5 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
front end of the engine (see illustration).

2D•16 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

10.5 Withdrawing the camshaft from the

front of the engine

10.3 Checking the camshaft endfloat

9.16 Valve spring pressure is sufficient to

seat lower seat/stem oil seals on

reassembly

9.11 Insert the split collets into the groove

in the valve stem

9.9 Insert the valve into its guide

9.8 Locate the seal, and tap it into position

over the guide

1595Ford Fiesta Remake