Jaguar XJ-S. Service manual — part 158

627

Windshield and Headlight Washers

These systems have changed considerably over the years. The pre-H.E. windshield washer is a simple tank with a
simple, separate pump that draws fluid from a sort of dipstick tube inserted in the top of the tank. Both pump and tank
are located at the rear passenger’s side corner of the engine compartment. If that pump quits, a generic replacement
such as those available at any parts store will work fine. The one sold by Wal-Mart, Wiper Mates #5101, also has the
same electrical connector layout so the connector on the Jag wiring harness will plug right on. Polarity is important, but
it is correct. Apparently there’s some sort of standard for plugs on washer pumps.

On the H.E. up until VIN 110190 (mid-1983), the tank and pump are still on the passenger’s side rear corner of the
engine compartment but the windshield washer pump (DAC2403) is mounted horizontally and is attached directly to
the bottom of the washer fluid tank itself. It actually screws onto the tank; the opening in the tank has a rubber
grommet in it, and there’s a plastic nut on the inside held in place by three rubber tangs on the grommet itself. The
pump has a threaded inlet end and is installed by rotating the entire pump, screwing it into that nut and compressing the
grommet.

When installing an aftermarket pump is a system like this, the recommended method of plumbing is to leave the toasted
OEM pump in place and just tee the new pump into the line from it. Fine and dandy -- except that the primary failure
on this author’s pump was the shaft seal between the pump and motor, which allowed the fluid to drain through the
motor and out the electrical connectors. Leaving it in place was therefore not an option, unless I could find a way to
seal it. Didn’t like that option anyway, so I removed all that junk and worked on connecting a pickup hose to the
opening in the tank.

A suitable grommet can be found at the auto parts store on the rack of “PCV valve grommets”. The one that fits a
1970-84 Toyota fits just fine. Next challenge: something to fit into this grommet. My choice was a PCV valve!
They’re cheap, so I just selected a plastic one, drilled the big end open and let the guts drop out, and plugged it in; it
proved watertight. A 1/2” nylon tubing fitting would probably work too. Of course, the fitting on the other end is still
pretty large, so stepping the hose size down to the 1/8” for the inlet of the aftermarket pump is still necessary.

Another option might be to jamb the hose itself into the grommet on the tank so the grommet seals against the outside
surface of the hose. You could even feed the hose on into the tank and out the filler opening, then jam a fitting or a
piece of brass tubing into the end of the hose to spread it a little larger and firmer than the bare end of the hose would
be, then pull it back into the grommet until it “wedges” into place.

From VIN 110191 to VIN 148781, a different tank with a different type pump is used, but still in the same basic
location.

Apparently, headlight washers were not available before 1982 or so. From their introduction up until VIN 148781, cars
that have washers on the headlights have a single tank with two pumps. This tank still fits in the passenger’s side
corner of the engine compartment, but it is larger than the single-pump tank and has a more elaborate mounting scheme.
The tank shown in the ’88 Jaguar Parts Catalogue is labelled DAC2853, but Martin Hargreaves reports that the later
Parts Catalogue (RTC9900CA) shows a tank number DAC4368. These two tanks appear exactly the same in the
illustrations; the actual difference is unknown.

From VIN 148782 on, the tank (DAC4732/2) and pump is located in the compartment forward of the right front tire;
this configuration is much more complicated, requiring a separate filler tube and cap and a special vent. Cars from VIN
148782 on with headlight washers have a similar tank (DAC4732/1) with two pumps.

From VIN 110191 on, the same type pump is used regardless of the tank configuration: DAC2876. This pump doesn’t
screw in like the earlier pump, but rather simply presses into a grommet. This is a common configuration; Alex Dorne
says, “It is VDO part number V246 003, also found on:

Audi 100, '77-'92

628

BMW 3 series, '80-85

BMW 5 series, '82 - '87

Saab 99, '78 - '84

Saab 900, '78-'84

Volvo 300 Series (European) '82-'89

Volvo 400 Series (European) '87-96

VW Golf / Rabbit '81-'86

Most of these are prime wrecking yard material.” Mike McLaughlin adds, “on my '85 XJ-S H.E. a Volkswagen Jetta
pump ($20USD) is a drop-in replacement, both to the reservoir and the Lucas plug!” If a generic aftermarket pump is
used, it should be easy enough to find a fitting that will plug into the same grommet and connect to a hose to the pump.

The saloon is apparently a different matter. The Haynes manual indicates the tank used with headlight washers is in the
fender, and since the Haynes manual is ©1985 that means this move was made a few years before a similar move in the
XJ-S. Also, the Haynes says it is installed in the left side fender, while in the XJ-S it went into the right side fender.

HEADLAMP WIPER/WASHER DIODE PACK: Read all about the electric radiator fan diode pack on page 224.

ACCESS TO WASHER TANK IN FENDER: Regarding the VIN 148782-on configuration, Michael Wilson says,
“You have to remove the front stone guard to gain access. And trust me, it's much easier to remove the wheel to gain
access!”

WASHER NOZZLES: According to Richard Mansell, the single-post windshield sprayer in the center of the air intake
grille was replaced by two separate sprayers in mid-1987. These later nozzles are heated to prevent freezing. Jaguar
didn’t see fit to change the casting of the grille itself, so it retained a boss location in the center even though it wasn’t
drilled and had nothing installed in it.

Martin Hargreaves reports that the two separate sprayers changed again. “First later type has a plastic top which breaks
easily when adjusting, and the hose attachment is straight (i.e. points down) and metal. This is DAC 4244. The newer
type is metal at the top, and the hose attachment bends through 90 degrees and is grey plastic (possibly fitted over the
original type fitting). This is DAC 6398. From my dealer DAC 6398 is UKP 28 plus VAT. Each.”

Chuck Sparks says a large part of the problems with nozzles come from people using tap water in the washer system.
After use, the water in the tip of the nozzle evaporates and leaves its minerals behind. In no time at all, the tiny
passages are plugged. Really, folks, the $1/gal for washer fluid is money well spent.

WASHER SYSTEM CHECK VALVES: In some XJ-S’s, Jaguar used inline check valves in the lines to the nozzles.
Judging from the parts catalogs, this is related to the pumps used; the early external pump had one, the early H.E.
screw-in pump didn’t, the later push-in pumps did again. Maybe some pump designs didn’t include check valves
within the pump while others did.

They’re easy to test; just remove them from the line and try blowing through them in both directions. They should feel
wide open in one direction, totally plugged the other way. When they quit working, the only fix is apparently to replace
them. Since they will have the same effect regardless of where they are in the line, you might consider relocating them;
being plastic, they don’t like sunlight and they don’t like engine heat.

The check valves used on the pre-H.E., GWW504, are different than the check valves used on later cars, DAC2963. A
check valve is a check valve; since both items fit the same type hose and handle the same type fluid, they logically

629

should be interchangeable. Chuck Sparks claims the early design simply falls apart after exposure to heat or sunlight,
so perhaps replacing with the later item is in order.

The early system with the dipstick hose pickup in the tank also has a check valve right at the end of that pickup. It’s
similar to the GWW504 except one side of the housing is missing so it can pick up fluid right into the check valve
itself. Of course, you should still be able to substitute check valves; having an inlet that happens to be able to connect
to hose shouldn’t hurt anything.

WASHER FLOW RESTRICTORS: Although not shown in the parts catalogs, John Goodman insists there are flow
restrictors in the lines to the nozzles on some cars. Even if they work OK when new, they may get plugged up and too
restrictive as they get older. If you find them, you might consider simply removing them. “On some cars it's under the
air intake grille so isn't easily spotted.”

WASHER FLUID LEVEL WARNING LIGHT: The washer systems used in VIN 148782 on with the tank in the right
front fender have a level sensor that operates an idiot light on the dash, presumably because it’s not practical to simply
look at the tank to make sure there’s enough fluid in it. Michael Wilson says, “I just spoke with my local Jaguar dealer
(Barrier Motors) this morning, and they told me that you can no longer purchase the "low level" sensor alone. It is now
officially listed a NA (Not Available). Now, you must buy the entire reservoir bottle with the sensor built in. It does
not come with the pump motor. Apparently you can utilize the unit off the old one. The entire assembly runs a
whopping $155.00. Thats a lot of money to spend just to have an idiot light come on!”

WASHER MODIFICATIONS: John Goodman says, “Washers and wipers have improved over the years, but it was
quite common in the early '80's to modify the washer systems on cars that were prone to greasy windscreens (my Jensen
Healey was prone to this as the dirty air from under the bonnet would exit in front of the screen). We would take a
small bore copper pipe from the washer pump and wrap it around the exhaust manifold or heater hose, connect a "T"
piece with two lengths of small bore black nylon air hose routed through the body and taped to the windscreen wipers
with numerous fine holes strategically directed. Add lemon juice to the washer water.”

This author suggests wrapping that tube around the exhaust manifold wouldn’t be good, since it would boil all the fluid
away. Wrapping around a heater hose or pipe is a better idea; this would heat the fluid to near the same temp as the
coolant, warm but below boiling -- and it might not heat it at all if the heater valve is closed, which would indicate a
warm day. Might do wonders for clearing ice from the windshield -- or might just crack the windshield.

Light Bulbs

Light bulbs are discussed here. The taillight lenses and the like are discussed in the section on the body; see page 475.

If you can’t find a bulb locally, you can order whatever bulbs you’re ever likely to need from:

Lamp Technology, Inc.

1645 Sycamore Ave.

Bohemia, NY 11716-1729

1-800-KEEP-LIT

+1 (631) 561-1800

Fax:

+1 (631) 567-1806

http://www.lamptech.com

630

BULB NUMBERING SCHEMES: Europe and the US use different schemes to number automotive bulbs, but a lot of
the bulbs have equivalents. In Europe -- and in the Jaguar manuals -- light bulbs (and fuses) are specified by a three-
digit number. Often, the manufacturer will be indicated by letters preceding the number; for example, a Unipart bulb
may be number GLB 233, but it could be replaced by any bulb number 233. While the Jag manuals often indicate GLB
numbers, I will endeavor to indicate only the three digit number in this book.

Here in the US, automotive light bulbs are typically packaged on cards in parts stores, clearly labelled by the US
number and “12V” -- but no clue at all about what amperage or wattage they are. Sometimes, if you’re real lucky,
you’ll find the candlepower -- but that’s only loosely related to wattage. However, the parts stores will usually have a
book behind the counter that gives complete data on the various bulbs available: voltage, wattage, life rating,
candlepower, filament shape, etc. The only thing the books won’t tell you is the European equivalent.

Of course, I try to actually be helpful in this book, so I will endeavor to give US equivalents to the European numbers
where I have been able to figure them out. Note that some of the data below includes the wattage as listed on a
specification sheet, often to two decimal places; rounding is definitely in order for general use, especially since the Jag
bulb charts usually don’t specify wattage closer than to an even watt.

The specification sheets also give rated voltages for automotive bulbs generally between 12.5V and 14.4V. On the
cards, these are all called “12V”.

The Jaguar Parts Catalogue, August 1987, seems to take a more objectionable tack and lists only Jaguar part numbers
for many light bulbs. There are no light bulbs in the car that were developed especially for Jaguar; all bulbs can be
replaced with generic equivalents. Some that have been identified include:

Jaguar P/N

Euro equiv.

US equiv.

C9126

382 1156

C38966

286

C43898

987

JLM293

254

JLM9587

207

JLM9589

233 1893

JLM9590

239 11004

JLM9591

265

GE

DE7576

JLM9592

273

JLM9594

380 1157

JLM9598

411 H1

JLM9600

501 168

JLM9601

989

See the specific application notes below to fill in those blanks for US equivalents.

MINIATURE BAYONET BULBS: Miniature bayonet bulbs are the flashlight-size bulbs with a cylindrical base with a
pin on each side. They are sometimes simply referred to as “bayonet” bulbs -- including in the Jaguar bulb charts -- but
this is technically incorrect, since “bayonet” actually refers to the larger bulbs of similar design such as most taillight
bulbs. 13-14.4V miniature bayonet bulbs available in the US include: