Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 31

10-20

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

FRONT SUSPENSION —

LOWER CONTROL ARM — CROSSMEMBER

23.24 Use a 15mm flex socket with long extension inserted

through the ABS sensor wiring harness hole in the inner fender to

remove the bolt attaching the top of the power steering pump

front bracket - four-cylinder models with ABS

23.26 Remove the power steering pump/mounting bracket
assembly through the area between the rear of the engine,

driveaxle and front suspension crossmember

inner fender and unclip the wiring harness

from the frame rail. If the vehicle does not

have ABS brakes, just remove the grommet
plug from the hole.
24

On four-cylinder models with ABS,

insert a socket wrench with long extension
and a 15mm flex socket through the ABS
sensor wiring harness hole and remove the
bolt attaching the top of the power steering
pump front bracket to the cast aluminum
mounting bracket (see illustration).
25

Remove the power steering pump drive-

belt from the pump pulley.
26

Carefully remove the power steering

pump and mounting bracket as an assembly
through the area between the rear of the
engine, driveaxle and front suspension cross-

23.27a If you're installing a new pump,

member (see illustration).

you'll need a special puller to remove the

27 Installation is the reverse of removal. If

pulley from the old pump ...

you're installing a new pump, you'll need a

special puller to remove the pulley from the
old pump and another special tool (see illus-
trations) to install it on the new pump. These
tools are available at most auto parts stores.
First, loosely install mounting bolts and hose
fittings. Note: The power steering pump
pressure hose must be installed between the
front bracket of the pump and the pump pul-
ley. Mount the power steering drivebelt.
Using a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar in the
square adjustment hole of the pump, rotate
the pump to the correct belt tension (see
Chapter 1), hold the pump in position and
tighten the bottom adjusting slot bolts and
then tighten the top pivot bolt to the torque
li sted in this Chapter's Specifications.
28

Fill the power steering fluid reservoir

with the recommended power steering fluid
(see Chapter 1), and bleed the system (see
Section 24).

PUMP PULLEY

POWER STEERING
PUMP MOUNTING

BOSS

ROTATE THIS

WRENCH WRENCH TO

INSTALL PULLEY

THIS WRENCH

WRENCH

HELD STATIONARY

PULLEY

SPACER IS TO BE

SEATED FLUSH AGAINST

PUMP SHAFT WHEN

PULLEY IS INSTALLED

PULLEY

23.27b . . . and another special tool to install it on the new pump

23.27c When installing the pulley on the new pump, make sure

the spacer is fully seated as shown

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-21

26.1 Camber, caster and toe-in angles

METRIC TIRE SIZES

SECTION WIDTH

(MILLIMETERS)

185

195

205

ETC

70

75

CONSTRUCTION TYPE

80

R-RADIAL

B-BIAS - BELTED

D-DIAGONAL (BIAS)

SECTION

R

WIDTH

SECTION

HEIGHT

25.1 Metric tire size code

24 Power steering system - bleeding

1

Following any operation in which the

power steering fluid lines have been discon-
nected, the power steering system must be
bled to remove all air and obtain proper
steering performance.
2

With the front wheels in the straight

ahead position, check the power steering
fluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reaches
the Cold mark on the dipstick.
3

Start the engine and allow it to run at

fast idle. Recheck the fluid level and add
more if necessary to reach the Cold mark on
the dipstick.
4

Bleed the system by running the engine

for a few seconds, turning the steering wheel
from side to side several times without hitting
the stops, with the weight of the vehicle off of
the wheels (vehicle front end raised and

securely supported on jackstands), then
stopping the engine and rechecking level.

This will work the air out of the system. Keep
the reservoir full of fluid as this is done.

5

When the air is worked out of the sys-

tem, return the wheels to the straight ahead

position and leave the vehicle running for
several more minutes before shutting it off.
6

Road test the vehicle to be sure the

steering system is functioning normally and

noise free.
7

Recheck the fluid level to be sure it is up

to the Hot mark on the dipstick while the
engine is at normal operating temperature.
Add fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).

25 Wheels and tires - general

information

Refer to illustration 25.1

All vehicles covered by this manual are

equipped with metric-sized fiberglass or steel
belted radial tires (see illustration). Use of
other size or type of tires may affect the ride
and handling of the vehicle. Don't mix differ-
ent types of tires, such as radials and bias
belted, on the same vehicle as handling may
be seriously affected. It's recommended that
tires are replaced in pairs on the same axle,
but if only one tire is being replaced, be sure
it's the same size, structure and tread design
as the other.

Because tire pressure has a substantial

effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tires should be checked at least once a
month or before extended trips (see Chap-
ter 1).

Wheels must be replaced if they are

bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt
holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical sym-
metry or if the lug nuts won't stay tight.
Wheel repairs that use welding or peening are
not recommended.

Tire and wheel balance is important in

the overall handling, braking and perfor-
mance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels
can adversely affect handling and ride char-
acteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire
is installed on a wheel, a shop with the proper
equipment should balance the tire and wheel.

26 Wheel alignment - general

information

Refer to illustration 26.1

A wheel alignment refers to the adjust-

ments made to the wheels so they are in
proper angular relationship to the suspension

and the ground. Wheels that are out of proper
alignment not only affect vehicle control, but
also increase tire wear. The alignment angles

normally measured are camber, caster and

toe-in (see illustration). Toe-in on the front,
and toe-in and camber on the rear are the
only adjustable angles on these vehicles. The
other angles should be measured to check
for bent or worn suspension parts.

Wheel alignment is a very exacting pro-

cess, one in which complicated and expen-
sive machines are necessary to perform the
job properly. You should have a technician
with the proper equipment perform these
tasks. We will, however, use this space to
give you a basic idea of what is involved with
a wheel alignment so you can better under-
stand the process and deal intelligently with
the shop that does the work.

Toe-in is the turning in of the wheels.

The purpose of a toe specification is to
ensure parallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehi-
cle with zero toe-in, the distance between the
front edges of the wheels will be the same as
the distance between the rear edges of the
wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is nor-
mally only a fraction of an inch. On the front

10

10-22

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

end, toe-in is controlled by the tie-rod end
position on the tie-rod. On the rear end, it's
controlled by a threaded adjuster on the rear
lateral link. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires
to wear improperly by making them scrub
against the road surface.

Camber is the tilting of the wheels from

vertical when viewed from one end of the

vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top,
the camber is said to be positive (+). When
the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is neg-
ative

H.

The amount of tilt is measured in

degrees from vertical and this measurement

is called the camber angle. This angle affects

the amount of tire tread which contacts the

road and compensates for changes in the

suspension geometry when the vehicle is
cornering or traveling over an undulating sur-
face.

Caster is the tilting of the front steering

axis from the vertical. A tilt toward the rear is
positive caster and a tilt toward the front is
negative caster.

11-1

Chapter 11 Body

Contents

Section

Section

Body - maintenance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...

2

Hood latch and cable - removal and installation . . . . . . .

10

Body repair- major damage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...

6

Instrument cluster hood - removal and installation . . . . . .

22

Body repair- minor damage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...

5

Instrument panel - removal and installation. . . . . . . . ...

23

Bumpers - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . . ...

12

Instrument panel top cover - removal and installation . . . . ...

20

Center console - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . .

26

Mirrors - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . .. . ...

27

Cowl cover - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . .

28

Passenger airbag module - removal and installation . . . . . .

24

Dashboard trim panels, glove box door handle and lock

Radiator grille (Cirrus models) - removal and installation . . . ..

11

cylinder - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . .

21

Seat belt check. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

30

Door latch, outside handle and lock cylinder - removal,

Seats - removal and installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29

installation and adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . ...

14

Steering column covers - removal and installation . . . . . .

25

Door - removal and installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

17

Trunk latch and lock cylinder - removal and installation . . . .

19

Door trim panel - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . .
Door window glass - removal and installation. . . . . . . ...

13
15

Trunk lid, support strut, latch striker and release cable -

removal, installation and adjustment. . . . . . . . . .

18

Door window regulator - removal and installation. . . . . . .

16

Upholstery and carpets - maintenance. . . . . . . . . . ..

4

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Vinyl trim - maintenance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Hinges and locks - maintenance. . . . . . . . . . . . ...

7

Windshield and fixed glass - replacement . . . . . . . . . .

8

Hood - removal, installation and adjustment. . . . . . . . .

9

1

General information

The models covered by this manual fea-

ture a "unibody" layout, using a floor pan with

front and rear frame side rails which support

the body components, front and rear suspen-
sion systems and other mechanical compo-
nents. Certain components are particularly
vulnerable to accident damage and can be
unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among

these parts are the body moldings, bumpers,
front fenders, the hood and trunk lids and all

glass. Only general body maintenance prac-

tices and body panel repair procedures
within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer are

included in this Chapter.

2

Body - maintenance

1

The condition of the vehicle's body is

very important, because the resale value
depends a great deal on it. It's much more
difficult to repair a neglected or damaged
body than it is to repair mechanical compo-
nents. The hidden areas of the body, such as
the wheel wells, the frame and the engine
compartment,

are

equally

important,

although they don't require as frequent atten-
tion as the rest of the body.
2

Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it's a

good idea to have the underside of the body
steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be
removed and the area can then be inspected

carefully for rust, damaged brake lines,
frayed electrical wires, damaged cables and
other problems. The front suspension com-
ponents should be greased after completion
of this job.
3

At the same time, clean the engine and

the engine compartment with a steam
cleaner or water-soluble degreaser.
4

The wheel wells should be given close

attention, since undercoating can peel away
and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires
can cause the paint to chip and flake, allow-
ing rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down
to the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.

5

The body should be washed about once

a week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften
the dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge

11

11-2

Chapter 11 Body

and plenty of clean soapy water. If the sur-

plus dirt is not washed off very carefully, it

can wear down the paint.
6

Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from

the road should be removed with a cloth
soaked in solvent.
7

Once every six months, wax the body

and chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used
to remove rust from any of the vehicle's plated
parts, remember that the cleaner also removes
part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.

3

Vinyl trim - maintenance

Don't clean vinyl trim with detergents,

caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.
Plain soap and water works just fine, with a
soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained.
Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the
vehicle. After cleaning, application of a high-
quality rubber and vinyl protectant will help
prevent oxidation and cracks. The protectant
can also be applied to weatherstripping, vac-
uum lines and rubber hoses, which often fail
as a result of chemical degradation, and to

the tires.

4

Upholstery and carpets -
maintenance

1

Every three months remove the floor

mats and clean the interior of the vehicle

( more frequerity if necessary). Use a stiff
whisk broom to brush the carpeting and

loosen dirt and dust, then vacuum the uphol-

stery and carpets thoroughly, especially
along seams and crevices.
2

Dirt and stains can be removed from

carpeting with basic household or automotive
carpet shampoos available in spray cans.
Follow the directions and vacuum again, then
use a stiff brush to bring back the "nap" of
the carpet.
3

Most interiors have cloth or vinyl uphol-

stery, either of which can be cleaned and
maintained with a number of material-specific
cleaners or shampoos available in auto sup-
ply stores. Follow the directions on the prod-
uct for usage, and always spot-test any
upholstery cleaner on an inconspicuous area
(like the bottom edge of a back seat cushion)
to ensure that it doesn't cause a color shift in
the material.
4

After cleaning, vinyl upholstery should

be treated with a protectant. Note: Make sure
the protectant container indicates the prod-
uct can be used on seats - some products

make may a seat too slippery. Caution: Do
not use a protectant on vinyl-covered steer-
ing wheels.

5

Leather upholstery requires special

care. It should be cleaned regularly with sad-
dle soap or leather cleaner. Never use alco-
hol, gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner to

clean leather upholstery.

6

After cleaning, regularly treat leather

upholstery with a leather conditioner, rubbed

in with a soft cotton cloth. Never use car wax

on leather upholstery.

7

In areas where the interior of the vehicle

is subject to bright sunlight, cover leather

seating areas of the seats with a sheet if the
vehicle is to be left out for any length of time.

5

Body repair - minor damage

Repair of scratches

1

If the scratch is superficial and does not

penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area
with a fine rubbing compound to remove
loose paint and built up wax. Rinse the area
with clean water.
2

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch,

using a small brush. Continue to apply thin
layers of paint until the surface of the paint in
the scratch is level with the surrounding
paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks
to harden, then blend it into the surrounding
paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing
compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the
scratch area.
3

If the scratch has penetrated the paint

and exposed the metal of the body, causing

the metal to rust, a different repair technique

is required. Remove all loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife,

then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber

or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area

with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can

be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin
paste, which is ideal for filling narrow

scratches. Before the glaze filler in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cot-
ton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the
cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along
the surface of the scratch. This will ensure
that the surface of the filler is slightly hollow.
The scratch can now be painted over as
described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents

See photo sequence
4

When repairing dents, the first job is to

pull the dent out until the affected area is as
close as possible to its original shape. There
is no point in trying to restore the original
shape completely as the metal in the dam-
aged area will have stretched on impact and
cannot be restored to its original contours. It
is better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 1/8-inch below the level
of the surrounding metal. In cases where the
dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to
pull it out at all.
5

If the back side of the dent is accessible,

it can be hammered out gently from behind
using a soft-face hammer. While doing this,
hold a block of wood firmly against the oppo-
site side of the metal to absorb the hammer
blows and prevent the metal from being
stretched.
6

If the dent is in a section of the body

which has double layers, or some other factor

makes it inaccessible from behind, a different

technique is required. Drill several small holes
through the metal inside the damaged area,

particularly in the deeper sections. Screw
long, self tapping screws into the holes just
enough for them to get a good grip in the
metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by
pulling on the protruding heads of the screws

with locking pliers.

7

The next stage of repair is the removal

of paint from the damaged area and from an
inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is

easily done with a wire brush or sanding disk

in a drill motor, although it can be done just

as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver
or the tang of a file or drill small holes in the
affected area. This will provide a good grip
for the filler material. To complete the repair,
see the subsection on filling and painting.

Repair of rust holes or gashes

8

Remove all paint from the affected area

and from an inch or so of the surrounding
metal using a sanding disk or wire brush
mounted in a drill motor. If these are not
available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do
the job just as effectively.
9

With the paint removed, you will be able

to determine the severity of the corrosion and
decide whether to replace the whole panel, if
possible, or repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think and it is often quicker to install a
new panel than to repair large areas of rust.
10

Remove all trim pieces from the affected

area except those which will act as a guide to

the original shape of the damaged body,

such as headlight shells, etc. Using metal
snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose
metal and any other metal that is badly
affected by rust. Hammer the edges of the
hole on the inside to create a slight depres-
sion for the filler material.
11

Wire brush the affected area to remove

the powdery rust from the surface of the

metal. If the back of the rusted area is acces-

sible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint.

12

Before filling is done, block the hole in

some way. This can be done with sheet metal

riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing

the hole with wire mesh.

13

Once the hole is blocked off, the affected

area can be filled and painted. See the follow-
ing subsection on filling and painting.

Filling and painting

14

Many types of body fillers are available,

but generally speaking, body repair kits
which contain filler paste and a tube of resin
hardener are best for this type of repair work.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be necessary for imparting a smooth and
contoured finish to the surface of the filler
material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a
clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the
hardener sparingly). Follow the manufac-
turer's instructions on the package, other-
wise the filler will set incorrectly.

Chapter 11 Body

11-3

15

Using the applicator, apply the filler

paste to the prepared area. Draw the applica-

tor across the surface of the filler to achieve
the desired contour and to level the filler sur-
face. As soon as a contour that approximates
the original one is achieved, stop working the

paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to

stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin

layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the
level of the filler is just above the surrounding
metal.
16

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed with a body file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper
should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper
and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.
Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rub-
ber or wooden block, otherwise the surface
of the filler will not be completely flat. During
the sanding of the filler surface, the

wet-or-drypaper should be periodically rinsed in

water. This will ensure that a very smooth fin-
ish is produced in the final stage.

17

At this point, the repair area should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely feath-
ered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair
area with clean water until all of the dust pro-
duced by the sanding operation is gone.
18

Spray the entire area with a light coat of

primer. This will reveal any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair the imperfec-
tions with fresh filler paste or glaze filler and
once more smooth the surface with sandpa-
per. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure
until you are satisfied that the surface of the
filler and the feathered edge of the paint are
perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and
allow it to dry completely.
19

The repair area is now ready for paint-

ing. Spray painting must be carried out in a
warm, dry, windless and dust free atmo-
sphere. These conditions can be created if
you have access to a large indoor work area,
but if you are forced to work in the open, you
will have to pick the day very carefully. If you
are working indoors, dousing the floor in the
work area with water will help settle the dust
which would otherwise be in the air. If the
repair area is confined to one body panel,
mask off the surrounding panels. This will
help minimize the effects of a slight mismatch
in paint color. Trim pieces such as chrome

strips, door handles, etc., will also need to be

masked off or removed. Use masking tape
and several thickness of newspaper for the
masking operations.

20

Before spraying, shake the paint can

thoroughly, then spray a test area until the
spray painting technique is mastered. Cover
the repair area with a thick coat of primer.
The thickness should be built up using sev-
eral thin layers of primer rather than one thick
one. Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper,

rub down the surface of the primer until it is

very smooth. While doing this, the work area
should be thoroughly rinsed with water and
the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed
as well. Allow the primer to dry before spray-
ing additional coats.

21

Spray on the top coat, again building up

the thickness by using several thin layers of
paint. Begin spraying in the center of the
repair area and then, using a circular motion,
work out until the whole repair area and
about two inches of the surrounding original
paint is covered. Remove all masking mate-
rial 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the
final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at
least two weeks to harden, then use a very
fine rubbing compound to blend the edges of
the new paint into the existing paint. Finally,
apply a coat of wax.

6

Body repair - major damage

1

Major damage must be repaired by an

auto body shop specifically equipped to per-
form unibody repairs. These shops have the
specialized equipment required to do the job
properly.
2

If the damage is extensive, the body

must be checked for proper alignment or the
vehicle's handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3

Due to the fact that all of the major body

components (hood, fenders, etc.) are sepa-
rate and replaceable units, any seriously
damaged components should be replaced
rather than repaired. Sometimes the compo-
nents can be found in a auto salvage or

wrecking yard that specializes in used vehicle

components, often at considerable savings
over the cost of new parts.

7

Hinges and locks - maintenance

Once every 3000 miles, or every three

months, the hinges and latch assemblies on

the doors, hood and trunk should be given a
few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The
door latch strikers should also be lubricated
with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear
and ensure free movement. Lubricate the
door and trunk locks with spray-on graphite
lubricant.

Windshield and fixed glass -

replacement

Replacement of the windshield and fixed

glass requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive/caulk materials and some special-
ized tools and techniques. These operations
should be left to a dealer service department
or a shop specializing in glass work.

9

Hood - removal, installation and

adjustment

Note: The hood is heavy and somewhat awk-

ward to remove and install - at least two peo-
ple should perform this procedure.

Removal

Refer to illustration 9.3

1

Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl

area of the body and both fenders. This will
protect the body and paint as the hood is
lifted off.
2

Open the hood and support it on the

prop rod.
3

Scribe alignment marks around the bolt

heads and hinges to aid alignment during
installation (a permanent-type felt-tip marker
also will work for this) (see illustration).
4

Disconnect the under hood lamp electri-

cal wire harness connector.
5

Have an assistant support one side of

the hood while you support the other. Simul-
taneously remove the hinge-to-hood bolts.
6

Lift off the hood. Note: A good place to

store the hood is on the roof of the vehicle.
Place blankets or pads on the roof first and
lay the hood painted side down on the blan-
kets.

Installation

7

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Align the marks around the hinges and bolts
(one side at a time) and then check for proper
clearance. Readjust as necessary (see
below).

Adjustment

8

Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjust-

ment of the hood is done by moving the hood
in relation to the hinge plate after loosening

the bolts. The hood must be aligned so there

is a 5/32-inch gap (approximate) to the front

fenders and flush with the top surface.

9

Scribe or trace a line around the entire

hinge plate so you can judge the amount of
movement (see illustration 9.3).
10

Loosen the bolts and move the hood

into correct alignment. Move it only a little at
a time. Tighten the hinge bolts and carefully
lower the hood to check the alignment.
11

Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator

support so the hood is flush with the fenders
when closed.

12

The hood latch assembly can also be

adjusted up-and-down and side-to-side after

loosening the nuts. Make sure you place

9.3 For a reference point at installation,

outline the hinges on the hood with

a felt tip marker

11

These photos illustrate a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement

Body repair - minor

damage in

this Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

1

If you can't access the backside of the body panel to hammer

out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In

the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or

punch hole(s) at least one inch apart .. .

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the

bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown

here makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to

feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area

5 Following label instructions, mix up a batch of plastic filler and

hardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix it

incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you

won't have time to file and sand it into shape)

2 . . . then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it.

Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help 'pop' the

metal back to its original shape. When you're finished, the dent

area should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch

below the surface of the surrounding metal

4 When the paint is removed, touch will probably be more

helpful than sight for telling if the metal is straight. Hammer

down the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary.

Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

6 Working quickly so the filler doesn't harden, use a plastic

applicator to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring it

bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the original

contour and is slightly above the surrounding metal

7

Let the filler harden until you can just dent it with your

fingernail. Use a body file or Surform tool (shown here) to rough-

shape the filler

9

You shouldn't be able to feel any ridge at the transition from

the filler to the bare metal or from the bare metal to the old paint.

As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, remove the dust and

mask off the adjacent panels or trim pieces

8

Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block to

work the filler down until it's smooth and even. Work down to

finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - ending

up with 360 or 400 grit

10

Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don't spray the

primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat

is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray

gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available

inexpensively from auto parts stores

11

The primer will help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fill

these with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions and
sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Repeat

the glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a

perfectly smooth surface

12

Finish sand the primer with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600-

grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water

and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply

the finish coat. Don't attempt to rub out or wax the repair area

until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)