Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 27
9-4
Chapter 9 Brakes
3.4a To remove the front brake caliper,
remove the two guide pin bolts (arrows)
3.4b Lift the caliper off the steering
knuckle and remove the outer
pad from the caliper
3.4c Remove the inner pad
from the caliper
3.4d If you're not going to reinstall the
caliper any time soon, hang it from the
upper control arm with a piece of wire
or equivalent - don't let it hang
by the brake hose
depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore,
the fluid in the master cylinder will rise as the
brake fluid is displaced. Make sure it doesn't
overflow. If necessary, siphon off more of the
fluid. Warning: Never siphon brake fluid by
mouth!
4
To replace the brake pads, follow
the accompanying photos, beginning with
illustration 3.4a. Be sure to stay in order and
read the caption under each illustration.
5
While the pads are removed, inspect the
caliper for brake fluid leaks and ruptures of
the piston dust boot. Replace the caliper if
necessary (see Section 4). Also inspect the
brake disc carefully (see Section 5). If
machining is necessary, follow the informa-
tion in that Section to remove the disc.
Inspect the brake hoses for damage and
replace if necessary (see Section 10).
3.4f Remove the bushing boots, inspect
them for damage and replace if necessary
6
Before installing the caliper guide pin
bolts, clean and check them for corrosion
and damage. If they're significantly corroded
or damaged, replace them. Be sure to tighten
the caliper guide pin bolts to the torque listed
in this Chapter's Specification Section.
7
Repeat the procedure for the opposite
wheel, then install the wheels, lug nuts and
lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the
torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specification
Section. Add the appropriate brake fluid to
3.4e Remove the guide pin bushings
3.4g Lubricate the guide pin bushings
with multi-purpose grease before
installing them
3.4h Apply an anti-squeal compound to
the backs of the pads where they mate
with the caliper and piston
3.4i Install the inner brake pad - make
sure the retaining spring is fully
seated into the piston bore
Chapter
9
Brakes
9-5
3.4j Install the outer brake pad - make sure
the retaining spring is properly engaged
with the caliper body and the wear
indicator (arrow) on the pad is positioned
at the top of the caliper as shown
the reservoir until it's full (see Chapter 1 if
necessary).
8
Pump the brakes several times to seat
the pads against the disc, then check the
brake fluid level in the reservoir again. Top it
up as necessary.
9
Carefully test the operation of the
brakes before resuming normal operation.
Try to avoid heavy brake applications until
the brakes have been applied lightly several
ti mes to seat the pads.
4
Disc brake caliper - removal and
installation
Warning: Dust created by the brake system
may contain asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out with com-
pressed air and don't inhale any of it. An
approved filtering mask should be worn when
working on the brakes. Do not, under any cir-
cumstances, use petroleum-based solvents
to clean brake parts. Use brake system
cleaner only.
Note: If replacement is indicated (usually
because of fluid leaks, a stuck piston or bro-
ken bleed screw) explore all options before
beginning this procedure. New and factory
rebuilt calipers are available on an exchange
basis, which makes this job quite easy.
Always replace the calipers in pairs - never
replace just one of them.
Removal
1
Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise
the vehicle and support it securely on jack-
stands. Remove the front wheels.
2
Unscrew the banjo bolt from the caliper
and detach the hose. Note: If you're just
removing the caliper for access to other com-
ponents, don't disconnect the hose. Discard
the sealing washers on each side of the fitting
and use new ones during installation. Plug the
hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
3
Refer to the first few steps in Section 3
(caliper removal is the first part of the brake
3.4k Place the caliper/brake pad
assembly onto the steering knuckle
(make sure the upper ends of
the pads seat properly)
pad replacement procedure). Clean the
caliper assembly with brake system cleaner.
Warning: DO NOT, under any circumstances,
use kerosene, gasoline or petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts! Be sure to
check the pads as well and replace them if
necessary (see Section 3).
Installation
4
Install the brake pads and caliper (see
Section 3). Tighten the caliper guide pin bolts
to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-
cation Section.
5
Connect the brake hose to the caliper
using new sealing washers. Tighten the banjo
bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specification Section.
6
Firmly depress the brake pedal a few
times to bring the pads into contact with the
disc. Check the fluid level in the master cylin-
der reservoir and add more if necessary.
7
Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).
8
Install the wheels and lug nuts. Lower
the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the
torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
9
Carefully check for fluid leaks and test
the operation of the brakes before resuming
normal operation.
5.2 The brake pads on this vehicle were
obviously neglected, as they wore down
to the rivets, then cut deep grooves into
the disc, which must now be replaced
3.41 Install the guide pin bolts and tighten
them to the torque listed in this
Chapter's Specifications
5
Brake disc - inspection, removal
and installation
Inspection
Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a and 5.4b
1
Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/4-turn,
raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on jackstands. Apply the parking
brake. Remove the front wheels. Reinstall the
lug nuts to hold the disc firmly against the
hub. Note: Washers may be required.
2
Remove the brake caliper (see Sec-
tion 4). Visually inspect the disc surface for
score marks and other damage (see illustra-
tion). Light scratches and shallow grooves
are normal after use and won't affect brake
operation. Deep grooves - over 0.015-inch
deep - require disc removal and refinishing
by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to
check both sides of the disc.
3
To check the disc runout, place a dial
indicator at a point about 1/2-inch from the
outer edge of the disc (see illustration).
Rotate the disc until you find the lowest point
on the disc. Set the dial indicator to zero and
turn the disc again. The indicator reading
should not exceed the runout limit listed in
this Chapter's Specification Section. Check
5.3 Use a dial indicator to check disc
runout - if the reading exceeds the
specified runout limit, the disc will
have to be machined or replaced
9-6
Chapter
9
Brakes
the runout on both sides of the disc. If the
runout exceeds specification, the disc must
be refinished by an automotive machine
shop. Note: Professionals recommend resur-
facing the brake discs regardless of the dial
indicator reading (to produce a smooth, flat
surface that will eliminate brake pedal pulsa-
tions and other undesirable symptoms related
to questionable discs). At the very least, if you
elect not to have the discs resurfaced,
deglaze them with sandpaper or emery cloth.
4
The disc must not be machined to a
thickness less than the specified minimum
thickness. The minimum (or discard) thick-
ness is cast into the disc (see illustration).
The disc thickness should be checked with a
micrometer (see illustration).
Removal
Refer to illustration 5.7
5
Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/4-turn,
raise the vehicle and place it securely on
jackstands. Remove the wheel.
6
Remove the caliper (see Section 4).
7
Remove the retaining clips, if present,
from the wheel studs (see illustration).
8
Pull the disc off the hub.
Installation
9
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure you tighten the caliper guide pin
bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specification Section. Tighten the lug nuts to
the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifica-
tions.
6
Drum brake shoes - replacement
Refer to illustrations 6.2, 6.4a through 6.4v
and 6.5
Warning: Drum brake shoes must be
replaced on both wheels at the same time -
never replace the shoes on only one wheel.
Also, the dust created by the brake system
may contain asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out with com-
pressed air and don't inhale any of it. An
5.4a The minimum thickness is cast into
the inside of the disc
approved filtering mask should be worn when
working on the brakes. Do not, under any cir-
cumstances, use petroleum-based solvents
to clean brake parts. Use brake system
cleaner only!
Caution: Whenever the brake shoes are
replaced, the hold-down springs should also
be replaced.
Due to the continuous
heating/cooling cycle that the springs are
subjected to, they lose their tension over a
period of time and may allow the shoes to
drag on the drum and wear at a much faster
rate than normal.
1
Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/4-turn,
raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
securely on jackstands. Block the front
wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling.
Release the parking brake. Remove the
wheel. Note: The brake shoes on both wheels
must be replaced at the same time. The drum
brake assemblies on these models are unique
for each side of the vehicle (left hand only -
right hand only) so to avoid mixing up parts,
service one brake assembly at a time.
2
Remove the brake drum. If the drum
won't come off, the brake shoes must be
retracted from their fully adjusted position by
inserting a screwdriver through the adjuster
hole in the backing plate. Locate the adjuster
5.4b Use a micrometer to measure the
thickness of the disc at several locations
5.7 Cut off and discard the disc retaining
washers, if present (it isn't necessary
to reinstall them)
access hole and remove the plug. Insert a
screwdriver through the access hole and
engage the adjuster quadrant teeth. Using
the screwdriver, move the adjuster quadrant
teeth fully toward the FRONT of the vehicle.
The drum should now come off. Wash the
brake assembly with brake system cleaner
(see illustration).
6.2 Before disassembling the brake shoe assembly, spray it with
brake cleaner to remove brake dust; DO NOT blow brake
dust off with compressed air
6.4a Using locking pliers, grasp the lower return spring and
detach it from the leading brake shoe (left hand
brake assembly shown
Chapter 9 Brakes
9-7
6.4b Remove the lower return spring -
note that the shorter spring end is
towards the trailing brake shoe
6.4c Using locking pliers, grasp the upper
return spring and detach it from the
trailing brake shoe
6.4d Unhook the upper return spring from
the leading brake shoe
6.4e Using locking pliers, detach the
automatic self-adjuster spring
from the adjuster
3
Remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly
(see Chapter 10). Note: Removal of the wheel
hub/bearing assembly is not mandatory, but it
makes the job a lot easier.
4
Follow illustrations 6.4a through 6.4v
for inspection and replacement of the brake
6.4f Compress the retaining clip,
remove the pin .. .
shoes. Be sure to stay in order and read the
caption under each illustration.
5
Before reinstalling the drum, carefully
examine it for cracks, score marks, deep
scratches and hard spots, which will appear
as small discolored areas. If the hard spots
6.4g . . . and separate the leading brake
shoe and the automatic self-adjuster
from the backing plate
cannot be removed with fine emery cloth or if
any of the other conditions listed above exist,
the drum must be taken to an automotive
machine shop to have it resurfaced. Note:
Professionals recommend resurfacing the
drums whenever a brake job is performed.
6.4h To remove the adjuster from the shoe, pull it outward, then
rotate it toward the reinforced side of the shoe
6.4i Compress the retaining clip, then remove the pin
and clip from the trailing shoe
LEADING BRAKE
SHOE ASSEMBLY
FULLY EXTEND ADJUSTER
IN THIS DIRECTION ROTATE
THIS
DIRECTION
AUTOMATIC SELF
ADJUSTER MECHANISM
9-8
Chapter 9 Brakes
6.4j Detach the parking brake cable from
the actuating lever - DO NOT try to
separate the actuating lever
from the brake shoe
6.4m Correctly position the trailing shoe
in place on the backing plate (parking
brake actuating lever toward the
inside) and secure it with a new
pin and retaining clip
Resurfacing will eliminate the possibility of
out-of-round drums. If the drums are worn so
much that they can't be resurfaced without
exceeding the maximum allowable diameter
6.4k Before installing the brake shoes,
apply a small amount of high-temperature
grease to all areas where the brake shoes
make contact with the backing plate
(stamped into the drum) (see illustration),
then new ones will be required. At the very
least, if you elect not to have the drums resur-
faced, remove the glazing from the surface
with emery cloth or sandpaper using a
swirling motion.
6
Install the wheel hub/bearing assembly
6.41 Obtain the correct replacement
trailing brake shoe (they are unique for
each side of the vehicle, RH or LH and the
parking brake actuating lever should be
permanently attached) and install the
parking brake cable onto the
actuating lever
6.4n Inspect the automatic self-
adjuster for damage and replace if
necessary
1
Knurled pin - check to see it is
firmly attached and the teeth are
not damaged or excessively worn
2
Quadrant spring - inspect for
damage and verify it hasn't lost
it's tension
3
Quadrant - verify the quadrant is
free to slide within its mounting
slot and can rotate through the
entire tooth range
(with a new hub nut), if removed (see Chap-
ter 10).
7
Install the brake drum, mount the wheel
and install the lug nuts.
8
Repeat the procedure for the opposite
wheel.
9
Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug
LUBRICATE THIS
SURFACE BETWEEN
AUTOMATIC SELF
QUADRANT AND STRUT
KNURLED
ADJUSTER MECHANISM
OF ADJUSTER MECHANISM
PIN
STRUT
QUADRANT
SPRING
6.4o Before installing the adjuster on the leading brake shoe,
lubricate the area between the quadrant and the adjuster
strut with a small amount of multi-purpose grease
6.4p Install the automatic self-adjuster onto the proper leading
brake shoe (they are unique for each side of the vehicle, RH or LH
and are marked on the reinforcement plate) - after installation the
quadrant teeth should be on the reinforced side of the brake shoe
Chapter 9 Brakes
9-9
6.4q Place the leading brake shoe (with
adjuster installed) in position on the
backing plate, making sure to match up
the notch in the adjuster strut with the
notch in the trailing brake shoe
nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1
Specifications.
10
To adjust the brakes, start the engine
and fully depress the brake pedal two or
three times to activate the automatic
adjusters.
11
Carefully test brake operation before
driving the vehicle in traffic.
7
Wheel cylinder - removal and
installation
Note: If replacement is warranted (usually
because of fluid leakage or sticky operation)
explore all options before beginning the job.
New wheel cylinders are available, which
makes this job quite easy. Never replace only
one wheel cylinder. Always replace both of
them at the same time.
Removal
Refer to illustration 7.2
1
Remove the rear brake shoes (see Sec-
tion 6).
2
Using a flare-nut wrench (if available)
disconnect the brake line fitting from the rear
6.4r Install the new pin and retaining clip
6.4t Install the adjuster spring into the
trailing brake shoe, then attach
it to the adjuster
of the wheel cylinder (see illustration). Plug
the end of the brake line to prevent fluid loss
and contamination.
3
Remove the two bolts securing the
wheel cylinder to the backing plate and
remove the wheel cylinder.
Installation
4
Installation is the reverse of removal.
6.4s Compress the retaining clip
and turn the pin 90-degrees to
retain the brake shoe
Tighten the wheel cylinder mounting bolts to
the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-
tions. Tighten the line fitting securely.
5
Install the brake shoes, wheel hub/bear-
ing assembly, if removed (with a new hub nut)
and brake drum (see Section 6).
6
Bleed the brakes (see Section 11). Care-
fully test brake operation before resuming
normal operation.
6.4u Install the upper return spring
6.4v Install the lower return spring,
positioned as shown
6.5 The maximum allowable diameter is
stamped into the drum (arrow)
7.2 Disconnecting the brake hose fitting
(arrow) from the wheel cylinder
9-10
Chapter 9 Brakes
8.2 Cruise control servo mounting
nuts (arrows)
8
Master cylinder - removal,
installation and fluid reservoir
replacement
Note: The master cylinder used on these
vehicles is not serviceable and must be
replaced as a unit. However, you can replace
the fluid reservoir and/or reservoir sealing
grommets.
Removal
Refer to illustrations 8.2, 8.5, 8.6 and 8.8
1
Disconnect the negative battery cable
from the ground stud on the left shock tower
(see Chapter 5, Section 1). With the ignition
switch in the OFF position, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved.
2
If equipped, disconnect the cruise con-
trol electrical connector and detach the
cruise control servo from its mounting on the
shock tower and position it out of the way
(see illustration).
3
Using a syringe or equivalent, siphon the
brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir
and dispose of it properly. Caution: Brake
fluid will damage paint. Cover all painted sur-
faces and avoid spilling fluid during this pro-
cedure.
4
Place rags under the brake line fittings
and prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the
ends of the lines once they're disconnected.
5
Loosen the tube nuts at the ends of the
brake lines where they enter the master cylin-
der (see illustration). To prevent rounding off
the corners of these fittings, a flare-nut
wrench, which wraps around the nut, should
be used. Pull the brake lines away from the
master cylinder slightly and plug the ends to
prevent leakage and contamination. Also
plug the openings in the master cylinder to
prevent fluid spillage.
6
Unhook the clip and unplug the electri-
cal connector from the brake fluid level sen-
sor (see illustration).
7
Clean the area where the master cylin-
der attaches to the vacuum booster using
brake system cleaner.
8
Remove the two master cylinder mount-
ing nuts (see illustration) and any brackets
that may be attached. Slide the master
8.5 Disconnect the brake line fittings with
a flare-nut wrench (ABS-equipped
models have two line fittings, while
non-ABS models have four)
cylinder off the studs and remove it from the
vehicle.
Installation
Note: Read this entire procedure before
beginning this operation.
9
Install the master cylinder onto the
power brake booster making sure to engage
the operating rod. Install any brackets as
necessary and tighten the mounting nuts
securely.
10
Before installing the brake lines to the
master cylinder, it should be bled. Since
you'll have to apply pressure to the master
cylinder piston and at the same time, control
flow from the brake line outlets, the aid of an
assistant will be required.
11
Insert threaded plugs into the brake line
outlet holes and snug them down so no air
will leak past them, but not so tight that they
can't be easily loosened.
12
Fill the reservoir with the recommended
brake fluid (see Chapter 1).
13
Place a suitable container under one of
the plugs and remove the plug. Have your
assistant SLOWLY depress the brake pedal
to expel the air from the master cylinder. Use
a rag to catch any brake fluid that squirts out.
A clear plastic bag placed over the master
cylinder will help you guide the expelled fluid
for collection and prevent it from squirting in
unwanted areas.
14
To prevent air from being drawn back
into the master cylinder, place your finger
tightly over the hole to keep air from being
drawn back into the master cylinder before
releasing the brake pedal. Wait several sec-
onds for brake fluid to be drawn from the
reservoir into the bore, then depress the
brake pedal again, removing your finger as
brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put your
finger firmly back over the hole each time
before releasing the piston, and when the
bleeding procedure is complete for that out-
let, install the plug (with the pedal depressed)
and tighten it before going on to the next
port.
15
Repeat the procedure until only brake
fluid is expelled from the brake line outlet
8.6 Unhook the retaining clip and unplug
the electrical connector from the brake
fluid level sensor
hole. When only brake fluid is
'
expelled,
repeat the procedure at the other outlets. Be
sure to keep the master cylinder reservoir
filled with brake fluid to prevent the introduc-
tion of air into the system.
16
Loosen the master cylinder mounting
nuts and connect the brake lines into the
master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is
a bit loose, it can be moved slightly so the fit-
tings can thread in easily.
17
Tighten the master cylinder mounting
nuts to the torque given in this Chapter's
Specification Section. Tighten the fitting nuts
securely.
18 If equipped, install the cruise control
servo onto the shock tower and plug in the
electrical connector.
19
Fill the master cylinder reservoir with the
recommended fluid (see Chapter 1), then
bleed the brake hydraulic system (see Sec-
tion 11).
Fluid reservoir
replacement
Refer to illustration 8.22
20
Using a syringe or equivalent, siphon the
brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir
and dispose of it properly.
8.8 To detach the master cylinder from
the power brake booster, remove the
mounting nuts (arrows), then pull the
master cylinder assembly straight
off the mounting studs
Chapter 9 Brakes
9-11
8.22 The brake fluid reservoir is secured and sealed
to the master cylinder by the grommets
9.5 On non-ABS models, the proportioning valves are located on
the right side of the front suspension crossmember
21
Disconnect the brake fluid level sensor
electrical connector from the reservoir (see
illustration 8.6).
22
To remove the reservoir, carefully rock it
back-and-forth while gently pulling upward
(see illustration).
23
After removing the reservoir, carefully
remove the grommets from the master cylin-
der. Note: New grommets should be installed
anytime the reservoir is detached from the
master cylinder.
24
Remove the brake fluid level sensor
from the reservoir.
25 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Coat the new grommets with clean brake
fluid prior to installation.
9
Proportioning valves - check and
replacement
Description
1
All models have two proportioning
valves that balance front-to-rear braking by
controlling the increase in rear system
hydraulic pressure above a preset level.
Under light pedal pressure, the valve allows
full hydraulic pressure to the front and rear
brakes. But above a certain pressure - known
as the "split point" - the proportioning valve
reduces the amount of pressure increase to
the rear brakes in accordance with a prede-
termined ratio. This lessens the chance of
rear wheel lock-up and skidding.
Check
2
If either rear wheel skids prematurely
under hard braking, it could indicate a defec-
tive proportioning valve. If this occurs, have
the system checked out by your local dealer
service department. A pair of special pres-
sure gauges and fittings are required for
proper diagnosis of the proportioning valves.
While diagnosis is beyond the scope of the
home mechanic, you may still save money by
replacing the valves yourself.
Replacement
Non-ABS models
Refer to illustration 9.5
3
Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts,
raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel.
4
Remove the accessory drivebelt splash
shield (see Chapter 1).
5
Loosen the brake hydraulic fluid lines
from the proportioning valve with a flare-nut
wrench to prevent rounding off the corners of
the fittings (see illustration). Back off the fit-
tings and remove the valve from the line. Plug
the ends of the lines to prevent loss of brake
fluid and the entry of dirt.
6
Installation is the reverse of removal.
7
Bleed the brakes (see Section 11). Care-
fully test the brakes before resuming normal
operation.
1995 to 1997 models with ABS
Refer to illustration 9.8
8
If your vehicle was manufactured
between 1995 and 1997 and equipped with
ABS, the proportioning valves are mounted
to the HCU (see illustration) and upon
removal, the ABS system will be required to
be bled using a DRB scan tool. We recom-
mend you let your local dealer service
department or other qualified repair shop
replace the proportioning valves on these
models.
1998 and later models with ABS
Refer to illustration 9.10
9
Loosen the appropriate rear wheel lug
nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support
it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel.
10
Loosen the line fitting from the propor-
tioning valve with a flare-nut wrench to pre-
vent rounding off the corners of the fittings
(see illustration). Be sure to hold the valve
with another wrench to prevent the line from
twisting.
11
Detach the brake hose bracket from the
upper frame rail.
12
Unscrew the valve from the brake hose
and plug the ends of the lines to prevent
leakage and contamination.
9.8 On 1995 to 1997 models equipped
with ABS, the proportioning valves
(arrows) are threaded into the Hydraulic
Control Unit which is mounted on the right
side of the front suspension crossmember
9.10 On 1998 and later models equipped
with ABS, the proportioning valves are
located in the rear wheel well and
mounted on the upper frame rail between
the metal brake line and the brake hose
9
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