Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 15
2C-18
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures
17.8 All bolt holes in the block,
particularly the main bearing cap and
head bolt holes, should be cleaned and
restored with the appropriate tap (be sure
to remove the debris from the holes after
this operation)
2
Using a gasket scraper, remove all
traces of gasket material from the engine
block. Be very careful not to nick or gouge
the gasket sealing surfaces.
3
Remove the main bearing cap assembly
and separate the bearing inserts from the
caps and the engine block. Note: The upper
bearings are equipped with the oil groove and
hole, the thrust bearing is in the No. 3 (center)
location. Tag the bearings, indicating which
cylinder they were removed from, then set
them aside.
4
Remove all of the threaded oil gallery
plugs from the block. The plugs are usually
very tight - they may have to be drilled out
and the holes retapped. Use new plugs when
the engine is reassembled.
5
If the engine is extremely dirty it should
be taken to an automotive machine shop for
cleaning.
6
After the block is returned, clean all oil
holes and oil galleries one more time.
Brushes specifically designed for this pur-
pose are available at most auto parts stores.
Flush the passages with warm water until the
water runs clear, dry the block thoroughly
and wipe all machined surfaces with a light,
rust preventive oil. If you have access to
compressed air, use it to speed the drying
process and to blow out all the oil holes and
galleries. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
7
If the block isn't extremely dirty or
slugged up, you can do an adequate cleaning
job with hot soapy water and a stiff brush.
Take plenty of time and do a thorough job.
Regardless of the cleaning method used, be
sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, dry the block completely and
coat all machined surfaces with light oil.
8
The threaded holes in the block must be
clean to ensure accurate torque readings
during reassembly. Run the proper size tap
into each of the holes to remove rust, corro-
sion, thread sealant or sludge and restore
17.10 A large 1/2 drive socket on an
extension can be used to drive the new
core plugs into the block
damaged threads (see illustration). If possi-
ble, use compressed air to clear the holes of
debris produced by this operation. Now is a
good time to clean the threads on the head
bolts and the main bearing cap bolts as well.
9
Reinstall the bearing inserts in their cor-
rect locations and place the main bearing cap
assembly onto the engine block. Tighten the
bolts finger tight.
10
After coating the sealing surfaces of the
new core plugs with Permatex No. 2 sealant
(or equivalent), install them in the engine
block (see illustration). Make sure they're
driven in straight and seated properly or leak-
age could result. Special tools are available
for this purpose, but a large socket, with an
outside diameter that will just slip into the
core plug, a 1/2-inch drive extension and a
hammer will work just as well.
11
Apply non-hardening sealant (such as
Permatex No. 2 or Teflon pipe sealant) to the
<—CENTERLINE
OF
ENGINE--->
18.4a Measure the diameter of each
cylinder at a right angle to the engine
centerline (A) and parallel to the engine
centerline (B) - the cylinder out-of-round
is the difference between (A) and (B); the
cylinder taper is the difference between
(A) and (B) at the top of the cylinder and
(A) and (B) at the bottom of the cylinder
new oil gallery plugs and thread them into the
holes in the block. Make sure they're tight-
ened securely.
12 If the engine isn't going to be reassem-
bled right away, cover it with a large plastic
trash bag to keep it clean.
18 Engine block - inspection
Refer to illustrations 18.4a, 18.4b. 18.4c,
18.4d and 18.8
1
Before the block is inspected, it must be
cleaned as described in Section 17.
2
Visually check the block for cracks, rust
and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in
the threaded holes. It's also a good idea to
have the block checked for hidden cracks by
an automotive machine shop that has the
special equipment to do this type of work. If
defects are found, have the block repaired, if
possible, or replaced. Note: If the engine
block requires machining, be sure to send the
main bearing cap assembly along with the
block.
3
Check the cylinder bores for scuffing
and scoring.
4
Check the cylinders for taper and out-
of-round conditions as follows (see illustra-
tions):
18.4b Measure the diameter of each
cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the center (B) and the bottom (C)
18.4c The ability to "feel" when the
telescoping gauge is at the correct point
will be developed over time, so work
slowly and repeat the check until you're
satisfied that the measurement is accurate
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures
2C-19
18.4d To determine the diameter, the telescoping gauge is then
measured with a micrometer
18.8 Check the cylinder block head gasket surface for warpage
by placing a precision straightedge across the surface and trying
to slip a feeler gauge between the block and straightedge
a) Measure the diameter of each cylinder at
the top Oust under the ridge area), center
and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel
to the crankshaft axis.
b) Next, measure each cylinder's diameter
at the same three locations perpendicu-
lar to the crankshaft axis.
c) The taper of each cylinder is the differ-
ence between the bore diameter at the
top of the cylinder and the diameter at
the bottom. The out-of-round specifica-
tion is the difference between the paral-
lel and perpendicular measurements.
Compare the results to the tolerance
listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
5
Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
6
If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or
scored, or if they're out-of-round or tapered
beyond the li mits listed in this Chapter's
Specifications,
have the engine
block
rebored and honed at an automotive machine
shop. If a rebore is performed, oversize pis-
tons and rings will be required.
7
If the cylinders are in reasonably good
condition and not worn to the outside of the
li mits, and if the piston-to-cylinder bore clear-
ances are acceptable, then they don't have
to be rebored. Honing is all that's necessary
(see Section 19).
8
Using a precision straightedge and a
feeler gauge, check the block deck (the sur-
face that mates with the cylinder head) for
distortion (see illustration). If it's distorted
beyond the tolerance listed in this Chapter's
Specifications, it can usually be resurfaced
by an automotive machine shop.
19 Cylinder honing
Refer to illustrations 19.3a and 19.3b
1
Prior to engine reassembly, the cylinder
bores must be honed so the new piston rings
will seat correctly and provide the best possi-
ble combustion chamber seal. Note: If you
don't have the tools or don't want to tackle
the honing operation, most automotive
machine shops will do it for a reasonable fee.
2
Before honing the cylinders, install the
main bearing cap assembly and tighten the
bolts to the torque li sted in this Chapter's
Specifications following the recommended
tightening
sequence
(see illustrations
25.13a, 25.13b and 25.13c). Make sure you
install the main bearing cap assembly on V6
models with the arrow facing the front (timing
belt end) of the engine.
3
Two types of cylinder hones are com-
monly available - the flex hone or "bottle
brush" type and the more traditional surfac-
ing hone with spring-loaded stones. Both will
do the job, but for the less experienced
mechanic the "bottle brush" hone will proba-
bly be easier to use. You'll also need some
kerosene or honing oil, rags and an electric
drill motor. Proceed as follows:
Mount the hone in the drill motor, com-
press the stones and slip it into the first
cylinder (see illustration). Be sure to
wear safety goggles or a face shield!
Lubricate the cylinder with plenty of
honing oil, turn on the drill and move the
hone up-and-down in the cylinder at a
pace that will produce a fine crosshatch
pattern on the cylinder walls (see illus -
tration). Ideally, the crosshatch lines
should intersect at approximately a 60-
degree angle. Be sure to use plenty of
lubricant and don't take off any more
material than is absolutely necessary to
produce the desired finish. Note: Piston
ring manufacturers may specify a
smaller crosshatch angle than the tradi-
tional 60-degrees - read and follow any
instructions included with the new rings.
c) Don't withdraw the hone from the cylin-
der while it's running. Instead, shut off
the drill and continue moving the hone
up-and-down in the cylinder until it
comes to a complete stop, then com-
press the stones and withdraw the hone.
If you're using a "bottle brush" type
hone, stop the drill motor, then turn the
chuck in the normal direction of rotation
while withdrawing the hone from the
cylinder.
d) Wipe the oil out of the cylinder and
repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
0-AC
HAYNES
19.3b The honing procedure should
produce a smooth crosshatch pattern
with the lines intersecting at
approximately 60 degree angles
19.3a A "bottle brush" type hone will
generally produce the best results in
most applications
a)
b)
2C
2C-20
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures
20.2 Use a piston ring removal tool
(shown) to remove the rings from
the pistons
4
After the honing job is complete, cham-
fer the top edges of the cylinder bores with a
small file so the rings won't catch when the
pistons are installed. Be very careful not to
nick the cylinder walls with the end of the file.
5
The entire engine block must be washed
again very thoroughly with warm, soapy
water to remove all traces of the abrasive grit
produced during the honing operation. Note:
The bores can be considered clean when a
lint-free white cloth - dampened with clean
engine oil - used to wipe them out doesn't
pick up any more honing residue, which will
show up as gray areas on the cloth. Be sure
to run a brush through all oil holes and gal-
leries and flush them with running water.
6
After rinsing, dry the block and apply a
coat of light rust preventive oil or Vaseline to
all machined surfaces. Wrap the block in a
plastic trash bag to keep it clean and set it
aside until reassembly.
20 Pistons and connecting rods -
inspection
Refer to illustrations 20.2, 20.4a, 20.4b, 20.10
and 20.11
1
Before the inspection process can be
carried out, the piston/connecting rod
assemblies must be cleaned and the original
piston rings removed from the pistons. Note:
Always use new piston rings when the engine
is reassembled.
2
Using a piston ring removal tool (see
illustration), carefully remove the rings from
the pistons. Be careful not to nick or gouge
the pistons in the process.
3
Scrape all traces of carbon from the top
of the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a
piece of fine emery cloth can be used once
the majority of the deposits have been
scraped away. Do not, under any circum-
stances, use a wire brush mounted in a drill
motor to remove deposits from the pistons.
The piston material is soft and may be
eroded away by the wire brush.
4
Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to
20.4a The piston ring grooves can be
cleaned using a special tool like
this one .. .
remove carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. If a tool isn't available, a piece bro-
ken off the old ring will do the job. Be very
careful to remove only the carbon deposits -
don't remove any metal and do not nick or
scratch the sides of the ring grooves (see
illustrations).
5
Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent
and dry them with compressed air (if avail-
able). Make sure the oil return holes in the
back sides of the ring grooves are free from
obstructions.
6
If the pistons and cylinder walls aren't
damaged or worn excessively, and if the
engine block is not rebored, new pistons
won't be necessary. Normal piston wear
appears as even, vertical wear on the piston
thrust surfaces and slight looseness of the
top ring in its groove. However, new piston
rings should always be installed when an
engine is rebuilt.
7
Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, at the pin bosses and at the
ring lands.
8
Look for scoring and scuffing on the
thrust faces of the skirt, holes in the piston
crown and burned areas at the edge of the
crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the
engine may have been suffering from over-
heating and/or abnormal combustion, which
caused excessively high operating tempera-
tures. The cooling and lubrication systems
should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the
piston crown is an indication that abnormal
combustion (pre-ignition) was occurring.
Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown
are usually evidence of spark knock (detona-
tion). If any of the above problems exist, the
causes must be corrected or the damage will
occur again. The causes may include intake
air leaks, incorrect fuel/air mixture, incorrect
ignition timing and EGR system malfunctions.
9
Corrosion of the piston, in the form of
small pits, indicates that coolant is leaking
into the combustion chamber and/or the
crankcase. Again, the cause must be cor
-
rected or the problem may persist in the
20.4b . . . or a short piece of an old
compression ring
20.10 Checking the piston ring
side clearance
rebuilt engine.
10
Measure the piston ring side clearance
by laying a new piston ring in each ring
groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside
it (see illustration). Check the clearance at
three or four locations around each groove.
Be sure to use the correct ring for each
groove - they are different. If the side clear-
ance is greater than specified, new pistons
must be installed. If new pistons are installed,
repeat this step with the new pistons and
rings.
11
Check the piston-to-bore clearance by
measuring the cylinder bore (see Section 18)
and the piston diameter. Make sure the pis-
tons and bores are correctly matched. Mea-
sure the piston across the skirt 11/16-inch
(2.0L four-cylinder), 9/16-inch (2.4L four-
cylinder) or 0.080 inch (V6 engine) above the
bottom of the piston, at a 90-degree angle to
the piston pin (see illustration). Subtract the
piston diameter from the bore diameter to
obtain the piston-to-bore clearance. If it's
greater than the limit listed in this Chapter's
Specifications, the block must be rebored
and new pistons and rings installed.
12
Check the piston-to-rod clearance by
twisting the piston and rod in opposite direc-
tions. Any noticeable play indicates exces-
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures
2C-21
20.11 Measure the piston diameter 90
degrees from the piston pin and the
specified distance from the bottom of the
piston skirt
21.1 Using a fine file, break the edge on
the crankshaft journal oil passages so
sharp edges won't gouge or scratch the
new bearings
21.2 Use a wire or stiff bristle brush to
clean the crankshaft oil passages - be
sure to flush them with solvent after
this operation
21.4 An easy way to check the surface finish on the bearing
journals is to rub a penny over the bearing surface - if the copper
transfers to the crankshaft, the surface is too rough and must be
reground by an automotive machine shop
21.7 Measure the diameter of each bearing journal at several
locations to determine if it's excessively worn or taper and out-of-
round conditions exist
2C
sive wear, which must be corrected. The pis-
ton/connecting rod assemblies should be
taken to an automotive machine shop to have
the pistons and rods resized and new pins
installed.
13 If the pistons must be removed from the
connecting rods for any reason, they should
be taken to an automotive machine shop for
disassembly. While at the automotive machine
shop, have the connecting rods checked for
bend and twist, since automotive machine
shops have special equipment specifically
used for this purpose. Note: Unless new pis-
tons and/or connecting rods must be
installed, do not disassemble the pistons and
connecting rods.
14 Inspect the connecting rods for cracks
and other damage. Temporarily remove the
rod caps, lift out the old bearing inserts, wipe
the rod and cap bearing surfaces clean and
inspect them for nicks, gouges and
scratches. After checking the rods, replace
the old bearings, slip the caps into place and
tighten the nuts (or bolts as applicable) finger
tight. Note: If the engine is being rebuilt
because of a connecting rod knock, always
holes with a stone, file or scraper,
install new rods.
6
Check the rest of the crankshaft for
cracks and other damage. It should be mag-
nafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - an auto-
motive machine shop will handle the proce-
dure.
7
Using a micrometer, measure the diam-
eter of the main bearing and connecting rod
journals and compare the results to the toler-
ances listed in this Chapter's Specifications
(see illustration). By measuring the diameter
at a number of points around each journal's
circumference, you'll be able to determine
whether or not the journal is out-of-round.
Take the measurement at each end of the
journal, near the crank throws, to determine if
the journal is tapered.
8
If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the
li mits listed in this Chapter's Specifications,
the crankshaft must be reground by an auto-
motive machine shop. Be sure to obtain and
install the correct size bearing inserts if the
crankshaft is reconditioned.
9
Check the oil seal journals at each end
21
Crankshaft - inspection
Refer to illustration 21.1, 21.2, 21.4 and 21.7
1
Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper (see illus-
tration).
2
Clean the crankshaft with solvent and
dry it with compressed air (if available). Be
sure to clean the oil holes with a stiff brush
and flush them with solvent (see illustration).
Warning: If compressed air is used always
wear eye protection to prevent solvents or
debris from causing and injury to your eyes.
3
Check the main and connecting rod
bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pits and cracks.
4
Rub a penny across each journal several
ti mes. If a journal picks up copper from the
penny, it's too rough and must be reground
(see illustration).
5
Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
2C-22
EXCESSIVE WEAR
TAPERED JOURNAL
22.1 Typical bearing wear patterns and probable causes
holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a
bearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrica-
tion is the cause of bearing failure, the bear-
ing material is wiped or extruded from the
steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures
may increase to the point where the steel
backing turns blue from overheating.
6
Driving habits can have a definite effect
on bearing life. Full throttle, low speed opera-
tion (lugging the engine) puts very high loads
on bearings, which tends to squeeze out the
oil film. These loads cause the bearings to
flex, which produces fine cracks in the bear-
ing face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bear-
ing material will loosen in pieces and tear
away from the steel backing. Short trip driv-
ing leads to corrosion of bearings because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off the condensed water and corrosive
gases. These products collect in the engine
oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is car-
ried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks
and corrodes the bearing material.
7
Incorrect bearing installation during
engine assembly will lead to bearing failure
as well. Tight fitting bearings leave insuffi-
cient bearing oil clearance and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing insert result in high spots on
the bearing which lead to failure.
23 Engine overhaul - reassembly
sequence
of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If the
seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it's
nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak
when the engine is reassembled . In some
cases, an automotive machine shop may be
able to repair the journal by pressing on a thin
sleeve. If repair isn't feasible, a new or differ-
ent crankshaft must be installed.
10
Refer to Section 22 and examine the
main and rod bearing inserts.
22 Main and connecting rod
bearings - inspection
Refer to illustration 22.1
1
Even though the main and connecting
rod bearings should be replaced with new
ones during the engine overhaul, the old
bearings should be retained for close exami-
nation, as they may reveal valuable informa-
tion about the condition of the engine (see
illustration).
2
Bearing failure occurs because of lack
of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled to prevent it from happening
again.
3
When examining the bearings, remove
them from the engine block, the main bearing
caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps
and lay them out on a clean surface in the
same general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal.
4
Dirt and other foreign particles get into
the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left
in the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the PCV system. It may get
into the oil, and from there into the bearings.
Metal chips from machining operations and
normal engine wear are often present. Abra-
sives are sometimes left in engine compo-
nents after reconditioning, especially when
parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the
proper cleaning methods. Whatever the
source, these foreign objects often end up
embedded in the soft bearing material and
are easily recognized. Large particles will not
embed in the bearing and will score or gouge
the bearing and journal. The best prevention
for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all
parts thoroughly and keep everything spot-
lessly clean during engine assembly. Fre-
quent and regular engine oil and filter
changes are also recommended.
5
Lack of lubrication (or lubrication break-
down) has a number of interrelated causes.
Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overload-
ing (which squeezes the oil from the bearing
face) and oil leakage or throw off (from
excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump
or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubri-
cation breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil
1
Before beginning engine reassembly,
make sure you have all the necessary new
parts, gaskets and seals as well as the fol-
lowing items on hand:
Common hand tools
A 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
Piston ring installation tool
Piston ring compressor
Plastigage set
Feeler gauges
A fine-tooth file
New engine oil
Engine assembly lube or moly-base
grease
Gasket sealants (anaerobic and RTV
type)
Thread locking compound
2
In order to save time and avoid prob-
lems, engine reassembly should be per-
formed in the following general order:
Piston rings installed on pistons
Crankshaft and main bearings
Piston/connecting rod assemblies
Rear main oil seal
Balance shaft carrier (2.4L four-cylinder)
Front case and oil pump assembly
Oil pan
Cylinder head(s) assembly
Water pump
Timing belt and sprockets
Timing belt cover(s)
Rocker arm cover(s)
Intake and exhaust manifolds
Driveplate
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures
2C-23
24.3 Install the piston ring into the
cylinder then push it down into position
using a piston so the ring will be square in
the cylinder
24.4 With the ring square in the cylinder,
measure the ring end gap with a
feeler gauge
24.5 If the ring end gap is too small,
clamp a file in a vise as shown and file the
piston ring ends - be sure to remove all
raised material
2C
24
Piston rings - installation
Refer to illustrations 24.3, 24.4, 24.5, 24.9a,
24.9b, 24.11 and 24.12
1
Before installing the new piston rings,
the ring end gaps must be checked. It's
assumed that the piston ring side clearance
has been checked and verified correct (see
Section 20).
2
Lay out the piston/connecting rod
assemblies and the new ring sets so the ring
sets will be matched with the same piston
and cylinder during the end gap measure-
ment and engine assembly.
3
Insert the top (number one) ring into the
first cylinder and square it up with the cylin-
der walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston (see illustration). The ring should be
near the bottom of the cylinder, at the lower
limit of ring travel.
4
To measure the end gap, slip feeler
gauges between the ends of the ring until a
gauge equal to the gap width is found (see
illustration). The feeler gauge should slide
between the ring ends with a slight amount of
drag. Compare the measurement to the toler-
ance listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If
the gap is larger or smaller than specified,
double-check to make sure you have the cor-
rect rings before proceeding.
5
If the gap is too small, it must be
enlarged or the ring ends may come in con-
tact with each other during engine operation,
which can cause serious damage to the
engine. The end gap can be increased by fil-
ing the ring ends very carefully with a fine file.
Mount the file in a vise equipped with soft
jaws, slip the ring over the file with the ends
contacting the file face and slowly move the
ring to remove material from the ends. When
performing this operation, file only by push-
ing the ring from the outside end of the file
towards the vise (see illustration).
6
Excess end gap isn't critical unless it's
greater than the limit listed in this Chapter's
Specifications. Again, double-check to make
sure you have the correct ring type and that
24.9a Installing the spacer/expander in
the oil ring groove
you are referencing the correct section and
category of specifications.
7
Repeat the procedure for each ring that
will be installed in the first cylinder and for
each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remem-
ber to keep rings, pistons and cylinders
matched up.
8
Once the ring end gaps have been
checked/corrected, the rings can be installed
on the pistons.
9
The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It's composed
of three separate components. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove (see illus-
tration). If an anti-rotation tang is used, make
sure it's inserted into the drilled hole in the
ring groove. Next, install the upper side rail in
the same manner (see illustration). Don't use
a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring
side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead,
place one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place and slide a finger
around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Finally, install the lower side rail.
10
After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check to make sure that both
the upper and lower side rails can be rotated
smoothly inside the ring grooves.
24.9b DO NOT use a piston ring
installation tool when installing the oil
control side rails
24.11 Piston ring assembly details
11
The number two (middle) ring is installed
next. It's usually stamped with a mark which
must face up, toward the top of the piston. Do
not mix up the top and middle rings, as they
have different cross-sections (see illustra-
tion). Note: Always follow the instructions
printed on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different approach-
es.
2C-24
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures
25.5a On four-cylinder engines,
install the upper bearings (with
grooves and holes) into the
engine block. Be sure to align
the oil holes and install the
thrust bearing in the center
bearing position (arrow)
OIL HOLES
LUBRICATION GROOVES
24.12 Use a piston ring installation tool to
install the 2nd and top rings - be sure the
directional mark on the piston ring(s) is
facing toward the top of the piston
12
Use a piston ring installation tool and
make sure the identification mark is facing
the top of the piston, then slip the ring into
the middle groove on the piston (see illustra-
tion). Don't expand the ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the piston.
13 Install the number one (top) ring in the
same manner. Make sure the mark is facing
up. Be careful not to confuse the number one
and number two rings (see illustration
24.11).
14
Repeat the procedure for the remaining
pistons and rings.
25 Crankshaft installation and main
bearing oil clearance check
1
Crankshaft installation is the first step in
engine reassembly. It's assumed at this point
that the engine block and crankshaft have
25.5b Main bearing
installation details - four-
cylinder engines
been cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned.
2
Position the engine block with the bot-
tom facing up.
3
Remove the mounting bolts and lift off
the main bearing cap assembly.
4
If they're still in place, remove the origi-
nal bearing inserts from the block and the
main bearing cap assembly. Wipe the bearing
surfaces of the block and main bearing cap
assembly with a clean, lint-free cloth. They
must be kept spotlessly clean. This is critical
for determining the correct bearing oil clear-
ance.
Main bearing oil clearance
check
Refer to illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b, 25.5c,
25.11, 25.13a, 25.13b, 25.13c and 25.15
5
Without mixing them up, clean the back
sides of the new upper main bearing inserts
(with grooves and oil holes) and lay one in
each main bearing saddle in the block. Each
upper bearing has an oil groove and oil hole
in it. Caution: The oil holes in the block must
line up with the oil holes in the upper bearing
inserts. The thrust bearing insert or thrust
washers (V6 engine) must be installed in the
No. 3 bearing position (see illustrations). V6
engines have two two-piece thrust washers
which are installed on each side of the No. 3
bearing. Install the thrust washers with the
grooved side toward the crankshaft (plain
sides should be facing each other). Install the
thrust washers so that one set has a tab
located in the block and the other set's tab is
in the main bearing cap assembly. Clean the
back sides of the lower main bearing inserts
(without grooves) and lay them in the corre-
sponding location in the main bearing cap
assembly. Make sure the tab on the bearing
insert fits into the recess in the block or main
bearing cap assembly. Caution: Do not ham-
mer the bearing insert into place and don't
nick or gouge the bearing faces. DO NOT
apply any lubrication at this time.
6
Clean the faces of the bearing inserts in
the block and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint-free cloth.
7
Check or clean the oil holes in the
crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one
way - straight through the new bearings.
8
Once you're certain the crankshaft is
GROOVED
25.5c Crankshaft main bearing and thrust washer arrangement - V6 engine
UPPER
BEARINGS
Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures
2C-25
* INDICATES DOWEL LOCATION
25.11 Place the Plastigage (arrow) onto the crankshaft bearing
25.13a Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence -
journal as shown
clean, carefully lay it in position in the cylinder
block.
9
Before the crankshaft can be perma-
nently installed, the main bearing oil clear-
ance must be checked. Note: On four-cylin-
der engines, the crankshaft position sensor
must be removed prior to main bearing oil
clearance check (see Chapter 6 if necessary).
10
On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, make
sure the three locating dowels are in place on
the cylinder block. This is necessary for
proper alignment of the main bearing cap
assembly to the cylinder block and crank-
shaft.
11
Cut several pieces of the appropriate
size Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter
than the width of the main bearing journal)
and place one piece on each crankshaft main
bearing journal, parallel with the journal axis
as shown (see illustration).
12
Clean the faces of the bearing inserts in
the main bearing cap assembly. Hold the
bearing inserts in place and install the assem-
bly onto the crankshaft and cylinder block.
DO NOT disturb the Plastigage. Make sure
you install the main bearing cap assembly on
V6 models with the arrow facing the front
(ti ming belt end) of the engine.
13
Apply clean engine oil to all bolt threads
prior to installation, then install all bolts fin-
ger-tight. Tighten main bearing cap assembly
bolts in the sequence shown (see illustra-
tions) progressing in three steps, to the
2.0L four-cylinder engine
torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
DO NOT rotate the crankshaft at any time
during this operation.
14
Remove the bolts in the reverse order of
the tightening sequence and carefully lift the
main bearing cap assembly straight up and
off the block. Do not disturb the Plastigage or
rotate the crankshaft. If the main bearing cap
assembly is difficult to remove, tap it gently
from side-to-side with a soft-face hammer to
loosen it.
15
Compare the width of the crushed Plas-
tigage on each journal to the scale printed on
25.15 Use the scale on the Plastigage
package to determine the bearing oil
clearance - be sure to measure the widest
part of the Plastigage and use the correct
scale; it comes with both standard and
metric scales
25.13c Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence - V6 engine
25.13b Main bearing cap
assembly bolt tightening
sequence - 2.4L four-
cylinder engine
2C
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