Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 9
2A-16
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
10.18 Measure the camshaft endplay with a dial indicator
positioned on the sprocket end of the camshaft as shown
10.20 Prior to installing the camshaft, lubricate the bearing
journals, thrust surfaces and lobes with assembly
lube or clean engine oil
Camshaft endplay measurement
Refer to illustration 10.18
15
Lubricate the camshaft(s) and cylinder
head bearing journals with clean engine oil.
16
On 2.0L engines, carefully insert the
camshaft into the cylinder head and install
the camshaft position sensor. Tighten the
bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specifications.
17
On 2.4L engines, place the camshaft in
it's respective place in the cylinder head.
Note: Do not install the rocker arms for this
check. Install the rear bearing cap and tighten
the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specifications.
18 Install a dial indicator set up on the
cylinder head and place the indicator tip on
the camshaft at the sprocket end (see illus-
tration).
19
Using a screwdriver, carefully pry the
camshaft fully to the rear (toward the
camshaft position sensor) until it stops. Zero
the dial indicator and pry the camshaft fully to
the front (toward the dial indicator end). The
amount of indicator travel is the camshaft
endplay. Compare the endplay measurement
with the tolerance given in this Chapter's
Specification Section. If the endplay is exces -
sive, check the camshaft and cylinder head
bearing journals for wear and replace as nec-
essary.
Installation
2.0L engine
Refer to illustration 10.20
20
Very carefully clean the camshaft and
bearing journals. Liberally coat the journals,
lobes and thrust portions of the camshaft
with assembly lube or clean engine oil (see
illustration).
21
Carefully install the camshaft in the
cylinder head.
22 Install a new camshaft oil seal (see Sec-
tion 8).
23 Install the camshaft position sensor (see
Chapter 6).
24 Install the cylinder head (see Section 12).
25 Install the rocker arm shaft assembly
(see Section 9).
2.4L engine
Refer to illustrations 10.29 and 10.30
26 If removed, install the valve lash
adjusters and rocker arms (see Section 9).
27
Clean the camshaft and bearing journals
and caps. Liberally coat the journals, lobes
and thrust portions of the camshaft with
assembly lube or engine oil (see illustration
10.20).
28
Carefully install the camshafts in the
cylinder head in their correct location. Tem-
porarily install the camshaft sprockets and
rotate the camshafts so their timing marks
align (see illustration 6.9b). Make sure the
crankshaft is positioned with the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark at three teeth BTDC
(see illustration 6.21b). Caution: If the pis-
tons are at TDC when tightening the camshaft
bearing caps, damage to the engine may
occur.
29 Install the bearing caps, except for the
No. 1 and No. 6 (left side) end caps (see
illustration 10.7). Tighten the bolts in 3 pro-
gressive steps in the sequence shown to the
torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications
(see illustration).
30
Apply a small bead of anaerobic sealant
(approximately 1/8 inch) to the No. 1 and No.
6 (left side) bearing caps (see illustration).
Install the bearing caps and tighten the bolts
to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi-
cations.
31
Install new camshaft oil seals (see Sec-
tion 8).
FRONT CAM CAP (#1L/1R)
10.29 Tighten the camshaft bearing caps progressing in 3 equal
steps in the sequence shown until the torque value given in this
Chapter's Specifications has been reached (2.4L engine)
10.30 Apply a small bead of anaerobic sealant to the No. 1 and
left side No. 6 bearing caps as shown
1.0 mm (0.039 in.)
DIAMETER BEAD OF
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
2A-17
11.4 This is what the air hose adapter that
threads into the spark plug hole looks
li ke - they're usually available from
auto parts stores
11.7 Use needle-nose pliers (shown) or a
small magnet to remove the valve keepers
- be careful not to drop them down into
the engine!
11.8 Remove the valve guide seal/spring
seat assembly with a pair of pliers
32 Install the timing belt, covers and related
components (see Section 6).
33
Run the engine while checking for oil
leaks.
11
Valve springs, retainers and seals
- replacement
Refer to illustrations 11.4, 11.7, 11.8, 11.13
and 11.15
Note: Broken valve springs and defective
valve stem seals can be replaced without
removing the cylinder heads. Two special
tools and a compressed air source are nor-
mally required to perform this operation, so
read through this Section carefully and rent or
buy the tools before attempting the job.
1
Remove the valve cover (see Section 3).
2
Remove the spark plug from the cylinder
which has the defective component. If all of
the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of
the spark plugs should be removed.
3
Turn the crankshaft until the piston in
the affected cylinder is at top dead center on
the compression stroke (refer to Chapter 2C).
If you're replacing all of the valve stem seals,
begin with cylinder number one and work on
the valves for one cylinder at a time. Move
from cylinder-to-cylinder following the firing
order sequence (see this Chapter's Specifi-
cations).
4
Thread an adapter into the spark plug
hole (see illustration) and connect an air
hose from a compressed air source to it.
Most auto parts stores can supply the air
hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compres-
sion gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that may
work with your air hose quick-disconnect fit-
ting. On 2.0L engines, the spark plug tubes
may need to be removed to facilitate adapter
installation.
5
Remove the rocker arms (see Section 9).
6
Apply compressed air to the cylinder.
Warning: The piston may be forced down by
compressed air, causing the crankshaft to
turn suddenly. If the wrench used when posi-
tioning the number one piston at TDC is still
attached to the crankshaft bolt, it could cause
damage or injury when the crankshaft moves.
7
Stuff clean shop rags into the cylinder
head holes above and below the valves to
prevent parts and tools from falling into the
engine, then use a valve spring compressor
to compress the spring. Remove the keepers
with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet
(see illustration).
8
Remove the spring retainer and valve
spring,
then remove the valve guide
seal/spring seat assembly (see illustration).
Caution: If air pressure fails to hold the valve
in the closed position during this operation,
the valve face and/or seat is probably dam-
aged. If so, the cylinder head will have to be
removed for additional repair operations.
9
Wrap a rubber band or tape around the
top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall
into the combustion chamber, then release
the air pressure.
10 Inspect the valve stem for damage.
Rotate the valve in the guide and check the
end for eccentric movement, which would
indicate that the valve is bent and needs to
be replaced.
11
Move the valve up-and-down in the
guide and make sure it doesn't bind. If the
valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or
the guide is damaged. In either case, the
head will have to be removed for repair.
12
Pull up on the valve stem to close the
valve, reapply air pressure to the cylinder to
retain the valve in the closed position, then
remove the tape or rubber band from the
valve stem.
13
Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil
and install a new valve guide seal/spring seat
assembly. Tap into place with deep socket
(see illustration).
14 Install the spring in position over the
valve.
15 Install the valve spring retainer. Com-
press the valve spring and carefully position
the keepers in the groove. Apply a small dab
of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold
it in place if necessary (see illustration).
16
Remove the pressure from the spring
tool and make sure the keepers are seated.
17
Disconnect the air hose and remove the
adapter from the spark plug hole.
18 If applicable, install the spark plug tubes
(2.0L engines only, see Section 3).
19 Install the rocker arms (see Section 9).
20 Install the spark plug(s) and connect the
wire(s).
21
Install the valve cover (see Section 3).
22
Start and run the engine, then check for
oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from
the valve cover area.
11.13 Gently tap the new seal into place
with a hammer and a deep socket
11.15 Apply a small dab of grease to each
keeper before installation to hold it in
place on the valve stem until the
spring is released
2A
2A-18
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
12.4 Cover the intake ports with duct tape (arrow) to
keep out debris before removing the cylinder head
(2.0L engine shown)
12.15a Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up and place the
head on wood blocks to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces
(2.0L engine shown)
12
Cylinder head - removal and
installation
Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely
before beginning this procedure.
Removal
Refer to illustrations 12.4, 12.15a, 12.15b and
12.16
1
Position the number one piston at Top
Dead Center (see Chapter 2C).
2
Disconnect the negative battery cable
from the ground stud on the left shock tower
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
3
Drain the cooling system and remove
the spark plugs (see Chapter 1).
4
Remove the intake manifold (see Sec-
tion 4). Cover the intake ports on the manifold
and cylinder head with duct tape to keep out
foreign debris and contamination (see illus-
tration).
5
Remove the bolts securing the power
steering reservoir and hoses to the cylinder
head and position them out of the way (see
Chapter 10 if necessary).
6
Remove the exhaust manifold (see Sec-
tion 5). Note: The exhaust manifold is easier
to remove after the cylinder head is removed,
if possible leave it attached.
7
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from
the thermostat housing (see Chapter 3 if nec-
essary).
8
Disconnect the electrical connector from
the camshaft position sensor (see Chapter 5).
9
Remove the timing belt (see Section 6).
10
Remove camshaft sprocket(s) and rear
ti ming belt cover (see Section 8).
11
On 2.0L engines, remove rocker arm
shaft assemblies (see Section 9).
12
On 2.4L engines, remove the camshafts,
rocker arms and valve lash adjusters (see
Section 9).
13
Remove the EGR valve from the cylinder
head (see Chapter 6).
14
Loosen the cylinder head bolts, 1/4-turn
at a time, in the reverse order of the tighten-
ing sequence (see illustrations 12.21a or
12.21b) until they can be removed by hand.
Note: Mark the locations of the different
length bolts so they can be reinstalled in their
original locations.
15
Carefully lift the cylinder head (see illus-
tration) straight up and place the head on
wood blocks to prevent damage to the seal-
ing surfaces. If the head sticks to the engine
block, dislodge it by placing a wood block
against the head casting and tapping the
wood with a hammer or by prying the head
with a prybar placed carefully on a casting
protrusion (see illustration). Note: Cylinder
head disassembly and inspection procedures
are covered in Chapter 2, Part C. It's also a
good idea to have the head checked for
warpage, even if you're just replacing the
gasket.
12.15b If the head is stuck to the engine block, dislodge it by
placing a wood block against the head casting and tapping
the wood with a hammer or by prying the head with a
prybar placed carefully on a casting protrusion
12.16 Place a precision straightedge along the cylinder head bolt
thread profile as shown, if any part of the bolt threads are not
on the straightedge, the bolt must be replaced
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
2A-19
12.21a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 2.0L engine
12.21b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - 2.4L engine
16
Remove all traces of old gasket material
from the block and head. Caution: The cylin-
der head is aluminum, be very careful not to
gouge the sealing surfaces. Special gasket
removal solvents that soften gaskets and
make removal much easier are available at
auto parts stores. When working on the
block, place clean shop rags into the cylin-
ders to help keep out debris. Use a vacuum
to remove any contamination from the
engine. Use a tap of the correct size to chase
the threads in the engine block. Clean and
inspect all threaded fasteners for damage.
Inspect the cylinder head bolt threads for
"necking," where the diameter of threads nar-
row due to bolt stretching (see illustration).
If any cylinder head bolt exhibits damage or
necking, it must be replaced. Note: If further
disassembly of the cylinder head is required,
refer to Part C of this Chapter.
17
Refer to Part C of this Chapter for clean-
ing and inspection of the cylinder head.
Installation
Refer to illustrations 12.21a and 12.21b
18
On 2.0L engines, install the camshaft if
removed (see Section 10).
19
Place a new gasket and the cylinder
head in position on the engine block.
20
Apply clean engine oil to the cylinder
head bolt threads and install them back in
their original locations (noted in Step 14).
21
Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the
sequence shown (see illustrations) pro-
gressing in 3 stages to the torque listed in
this Chapter's Specifications. After the third
pass, tighten the bolts in the proper
sequence, an additional 90-degrees (1/4-turn)
more. Note: A torque wrench is not required
for the 1/4-turn procedure. Before performing
the final pass, mark the bolts in relation to
the cylinder head and place another mark
90-degrees clockwise from the starting mark.
22 Install the rocker arms and hydraulic
valve lash adjusters (see Section 9).
23
On 2.4L engines, install the rear timing
belt cover, camshafts and camshaft sprock-
ets (see Section 10).
24
ON 2.0L engines, install the rear timing
belt cover and camshaft sprocket (see Sec-
tion 10).
25 Install the timing belt (see Section 6).
After installation, slowly rotate the crankshaft
by hand clockwise through two complete
revolutions. Recheck the camshaft timing
marks.
26
Reinstall the remaining components in
the reverse order of removal.
27
Be sure to refill the cooling system and
check all fluid levels (see Chapter 1 if neces-
sary).
28
Start the engine and run it until normal
operating temperature is reached. Check for
leaks and proper operation.
2A
13 Oil pan - removal and installation
Removal
Refer to illustrations 13.7, 13.10a, 13.10b,
13.11a and 13.11b
1
Disconnect the negative battery cable
from the ground stud on the left shock tower
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
2
Raise the vehicle and support it securely
on jackstands.
3
Remove the accessory drivebelt splash
shield (see Chapter 1).
4
Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
5
Remove the transmission support
bracket.
6
Remove the front engine mount and
strut (see Section 17). Note: On 2.4L engines,
it may be necessary to remove the engine
support module, if equipped.
7
If equipped, remove the transaxle-to-oil
pan structural collar (see illustration).
8
On 2.0L engines, remove the transaxle
inspection cover.
9
On 2.0L engines, equipped with air con-
ditioning, remove the oil filter and adapter.
2A-20
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
13.10a If the oil pan is stuck to the block, tap it with a
soft faced mallet to break it loose
13.10b Remove the oil pan from the block - be careful not to spill
any residual oil that may be inside
10
Using a criss-cross pattern, loosen and
remove the mounting bolts, then lower the oil
pan from the vehicle. Note: On models
equipped with an engine support module (see
Section 17), separate the oil pan from the
engine block enough to facilitate oil pump
pickup tube removal. If the pan is stuck, tap it
with a soft-face hammer (see illustrations)
or place a wood block against the pan and
tap the wood block with a hammer. Caution:
If you're wedging something between the oil
pan and the engine block to separate the two,
be extremely careful not to gouge or nick the
gasket surface of either part; an oil leak could
result.
11
Remove the oil pump pick-up tube and
screen assembly (see illustration). Remove
the 0-ring seal from the oil pick-up tube and
discard (see illustration). Thoroughly clean
the tube and screen. On vehicles equipped
with an engine support module, the oil pan
can now be removed from the engine.
12
Thoroughly clean the sealing surfaces
on the oil pan and block. Use a scraper to
remove all traces of old gasket material. Gas-
ket removal solvents are available at auto
parts stores and may prove helpful. Check
the oil pan sealing surface for distortion.
13.11a Unscrew the bolt (arrow) and
remove the oil pump pick-up tube
assembly - clean both the tube and
screen thoroughly and inspect
for damage or foreign debris
Straighten or replace as necessary. After
cleaning and straightening (if necessary),
wipe the gasket surfaces of the pan and
block clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thin-
ner or acetone.
13.l lb Removing the 0-ring seal from the
oil pump pick-up tube
Installation
Refer to illustrations 13.14 and 13.16
13 Install a new 0-ring onto the oil pick-up
tube and install it onto the oil pump housing.
Tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this
Chapter's Specifications.
14
Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant at
the cylinder block-to-oil pump assembly joint
13.14 Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to the cylinder block-
to-oil pump assembly joint on the oil pan flange
13.16 Front engine mount strut and structural collar bolt
identification - 1998 2.4L engine
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
2A-21
14.5a Remove the oil pump assembly mounting bolts (arrows)
and separate the assembly from the engine block
(2.0L engine shown)
14.5b If the pump will not come off by hand, tap it gently with a
soft-faced hammer or pry gently on a casting protrusion
2A
at the oil pan flange (see illustration). Install
a new oil pan gasket.
15
Place the oil pan into position and
install the bolts finger tight. Working
side-to-sidefrom the center out, tighten the bolts to
the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-
tions.
16
When installing the front engine mount
strut and collar on 1998 2.4L engines, install
all bolts hand tight, then tighten the bolts in
the order shown to the torque listed in this
Chapter's Specifications (see illustration).
17
On 1997 2.4L and 1998 and later 2.0L
engines, install the oil pan-to-transaxle struc-
tural collar and tighten the bolts in three
steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specifications.
18
The remaining installation steps are the
reverse of removal.
19
Refill the crankcase with the proper
quantity and grade of oil (see Recommended
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
lubricants and fluids Section in Chapter 1).
2
Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube
20
Run the engine and check for leaks.
assembly (see Section 13).
Road test the vehicle and check for leaks
3
Remove the timing belt (see Section 6)
again.
and crankshaft sprocket (see Section 7).
4
On 2.4L engines, remove the oil filter.
5
Remove the bolts and detach the oil
pump assembly from the engine (see illustra-
tion). Caution: If the pump doesn't come off
by hand, tap it gently with a soft-faced ham-
mer or pry on a casting boss (see illustration).
6
Unscrew the mounting screws and
remove the rotor assembly cover from the oil
pump housing. Withdraw the inner and outer
rotors from the body (see illustrations).
Caution: Be very careful with these compo-
nents. Close tolerances are critical in creating
the correct oil pressure. Any nicks or other
damage will require replacement of the com-
plete pump assembly.
14
Oil pump - removal, inspection
and installation
Note: The oil pump pressure relief valve can
be serviced without removing the oil pan and
oil pick-up tube.
Removal
Refer to illustrations 14.5a, 14.5b, 14.6a,
14.6b, 14.6c, 14.6d, 14.8 and 14.9
1
Disconnect the negative battery cable
from the ground stud on the left shock tower
14.6a Exploded view of
oil pump components
(2.0L engine shown, 2.4L
similar - except oil filter
adapter is part of oil
pump housing)
2A-22
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
14.6b Remove the rotor cover mounting screws (arrows) .. .
14.6c . . . and lift off the rotor cover
7
Using a hammer and brass drift, care-
fully remove the crankshaft front seal from
the oil pump housing and discard it.
8
Remove the 0-ring seal from the oil
pump housing discharge port and discard it
(see illustration).
9
Disassemble the relief valve assembly,
taking note of the way the relief valve piston
is installed. Unscrew the cap bolt and remove
the bolt, washer, spring and relief valve (see
illustration).
Inspection
Refer to illustrations 14.12a, 14.12b, 14.12c,
14.12d and 14.12e
10
Clean all components including the
block surfaces and oil pan with solvent, then
inspect all surfaces for excessive wear and/or
damage.
11
Inspect the oil pressure relief valve pis-
ton sliding surface and valve spring for dam-
age. If either the spring or the valve is dam-
aged, they must be replaced as a set.
Measure the relief valve spring free length
14.6d Exploded view of
oil pump assembly
A Rotor cover
B
Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D
Oil pump body
14.8 Remove the discharge port 0-ring
seal from the oil pump body - apply clean
engine oil to the new seal at installation
14.9 Remove the oil pressure relief valve
cap bolt from the oil pump body and
withdraw the spring and the
relief valve piston
14.12a Measure the outer rotor thickness
at 4 locations equally spaced
14.12b Measure the inner rotor thickness
at 4 locations equally spaced
Chapter 2 Part A Four-cylinder engines
2A-23
14.12c Measure the outer rotor's outer diameter at 4 locations
equally spaced
14.12d Use a flat feeler gauge to measure the outer rotor-to-oil
pump body clearance at 4 locations equally spaced
2A
and compare it with the dimension given in
this Chapter's Specifications. Replace the
spring if its out of tolerance by more than 1/8
of an inch.
12
Check the oil pump rotor dimensions
and clearances with a micrometer or vernier
calipers and a feeler gauge (see illustra-
tions) and compare the results to the toler-
ances given in this Chapter's Specifications.
Replace both rotors if any dimension is out of
tolerance.
Installation
Refer to illustration 14.16
13
Lubricate the relief valve piston, piston
bore and spring with clean engine oil. Install
the relief valve piston into the bore with the
grooved end going in first followed by the
spring and cap bolt. Tighten the cap bolt to the
torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
Note: If the relief valve piston is installed incor-
rectly, serious engine damage could occur.
14
Lubricate the oil pump rotor recess in
the housing and the inner and outer rotors
with clean engine oil and install both rotors in
the body. If the inner rotor has a chamfer,
install it so the chamfer is facing the rotor
cover. Next, fill the rotor cavity with clean
engine oil and install the cover. Tighten the
cover screws to the torque listed in this
Chapter's Specifications.
15 Install a new 0-ring in the oil discharge
passage.
16
Apply anaerobic sealant to the oil pump
body sealing surface (see illustration), and
position the pump assembly on the block
aligning the inner rotor and crankshaft drive
flats. Tighten the oil pump attaching bolts to
the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-
tions.
17 Install the new crankshaft front seal into
the oil pump housing (see Section 7).
18 Install the crankshaft sprocket (see Sec-
tion 7) and timing belt (see Section 6).
19 Install the oil pump pick-up tube assem-
bly and oil pan (see Section 13).
20 Install a new oil filter (see Chapter 1).
Lower the vehicle.
21
Fill the crankcase with the proper quan-
tity and grade of oil (see Recommended lubri-
cants and fluids Section in Chapter 1).
22
Connect the negative battery cable to
the ground stud on the left shock tower.
23
After the sealant has cured per the man-
ufacturer's directions, start the engine and
check for leaks.
15 Driveplate - removal and
installation
Removal
Refer to illustrations 15.5 and 15.6
1
Raise the vehicle and support it securely
on jackstands.
14.12e With the rotors installed, place a precision straightedge
across the rotor cover surface and measure the clearance
between the rotors and the rotor cover surface at 4 locations
equally spaced
14.16 Apply a bead of anaerobic sealant to the oil pump housing
sealing surface as shown
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