Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 28
9-12
Chapter 9 Brakes
13 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fit
the metal line to the proportioning valve
before attaching the brake hose bracket to
the upper frame rail.
14
Bleed the brakes (see Section 11). Care-
fully test brake operation before resuming
normal operation.
10 Brake hoses and lines -
inspection and replacement
1
Whenever the vehicle is raised and sup-
ported securely on jackstands, the rubber
hoses which connect the steel brake lines with
the front and rear brake assemblies should be
inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer
cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. These
are important and vulnerable parts of the
brake system and inspection should be thor-
ough. A light and mirror will be helpful for a
complete check. If a hose exhibits any of the
above conditions, renew it immediately.
Flexible hose replacement
Refer to illustration 10.3
2
Clean all dirt away from the hose fit-
tings.
3
Using a flare-nut wrench, disconnect the
metal brake line from the hose fitting (see
illustration). Be careful not to bend the frame
bracket or line. If the threaded fitting is cor-
roded, spray it with penetrating oil and allow
it to soak in for about 10 minutes, then try
again. If you try to break loose a fitting nut
that's frozen, you will kink the metal line,
which will then have to be replaced.
4
Remove the brake hose from the
bracket (some are secured to a bracket with
a retaining
clip,
others have an integral
bracket/fitting). Detach the brake hose from
the bracket or bracket from the vehicle as
applicable. Immediately plug the metal line to
prevent excessive leakage and contamina-
tion. Note: On 1998 and later models with
ABS, see Section 9 for rear brake hose-to-
proportioning valve separation.
5
On the rear brake hose(s), use a flare-
nut wrench to loosen the hose fitting at the
wheel cylinder and remove the hose.
6
On the front brake hose(s), unscrew the
banjo bolt at the caliper and remove the
hose, discarding the sealing washers on
either side of the fitting.
7
Attach the new brake hose to the caliper
or wheel cylinder as applicable. Note: When
replacing the front brake hoses, always use
new sealing washers. Tighten the banjo bolt
or tube nut to the torque listed this Chapter's
Specification Section.
8
Insert the other end of the new hose
through the bracket or loosely attach the fit-
ting/bracket to the vehicle as applicable mak-
ing sure the hose isn't kinked or twisted.
Then fit the metal line to the hose (or hose fit-
ting), tighten the hose bracket (if applicable)
and tighten the brake tube fitting nut to the
torque listed this Chapter's Specifications.
10.3 Disconnecting the front brake hose
from the metal brake line using a
flare-nut wrench
9
Carefully check to make sure the sus-
pension or steering components don't make
contact with the hose. Have an assistant
push down on the vehicle while you watch to
see whether the hose interferes with suspen-
sion operation. If you're replacing a front
hose, have your assistant turn the steering
wheel lock-to-lock while you make sure the
hose doesn't interfere with the steering link-
age or the steering knuckle.
10
After installation, check the master
cylinder fluid level and add fluid as neces-
sary. Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).
Carefully test brake operation before resum-
ing normal operation.
Metal brake lines
11
When replacing brake lines, be sure to
use the correct parts. Do not use copper tub-
ing for any brake system components. Pur-
chase steel brake lines from a dealer parts
department or auto parts store.
12
Prefabricated brake line, with the tube
ends already flared and fittings installed, is
available at auto parts stores and dealer parts
departments. These lines are also sometimes
bent to the proper shapes. If it is necessary to
bend a line, use a tubing bender to prevent
kinking the line.
13
When installing the new line make sure
it's well supported in the brackets and has
plenty of clearance between moving or hot
components. Make sure you tighten the fit-
tings securely.
14
After installation, check the master
cylinder fluid level and add fluid as neces-
sary. Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).
Carefully test brake operation before resum-
ing normal operation.
11
Brake system - bleeding
Refer to illustration 11.9
Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding
the brake system. If the fluid comes in con -
11.9 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is
connected to the bleed screw at the
caliper or wheel cylinder and then
submerged in clean brake fluid - air
will be seen as bubbles exiting
the tube (all air must be expelled
before moving to the next wheel)
tact with your eyes, i mmediately rinse them
with water and seek medical attention.
Note: Bleeding the brake system is necessary
to remove any air that's trapped in the system
when it's opened during removal and installa-
tion of a hose, line, caliper, wheel cylinder or
master cylinder.
1
If a brake line was disconnected only at
a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylin-
der must be bled.
2
On conventional (non-ABS) brake sys-
tems, if air has entered the system due to low
fluid level or master cylinder replacement, all
four brakes must be bled. Warning: If this
has occurred on a model with an Anti-lock
Brake System (ABS), or if the lines to the
Hydraulic Control Unit or Integrated Control
Unit (1998 models) have been disconnected,
the vehicle must be towed to a dealer service
department or other repair shop equipped
with a DRB Il scan tool to have the system
properly bled.
3
If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting
located between the master cylinder and any
of the brakes, that part of the system served
by the disconnected line must be bled.
4
Remove any residual vacuum from the
brake power booster by applying the brake
several times with the engine OFF.
5
Raise the vehicle and support it securely
on jackstands. Note: The wheels do not have
to be removed for this process.
6
Remove the master cylinder reservoir
cover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid
level often during the bleeding operation and
add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid
level from falling low enough to allow air bub-
bles into the master cylinder.
7
Have an assistant on hand, as well as a
supply of new brake fluid, an empty clear
container, a length of clear plastic or vinyl
tubing to fit over the bleed screw and a box-
Chapter 9 Brakes
9-13
12.16 Power brake booster mounting details
(as viewed from under the dash)
1
Brake pedal-to-booster pushrod retaining clip (DO NOT reuse)
2
Power brake booster mounting nuts (the lower left nut is hidden
behind steering intermediate shaft)
PURGE\
SOLENOID
ELECTRICAL
CONNECTOR
12.9 The purge solenoid is located on the left shock tower
end wrench to open and close the bleed
screw.
8
Beginning at the left rear wheel, remove
the bleed screw dust cap. Loosen the bleed
screw slightly, then tighten it to a point where
it's snug but can still be loosened quickly and
easily. Use the box-end wrench to avoid
rounding off the bleed screw wrenching flats.
9
With the wrench in place on the bleed
screw, attach one end of the tubing over the
bleed screw fitting and submerge the other
end in a clear container filled with about 1
inch of new brake fluid (see illustration).
10
Have the assistant slowly push down on
the brake pedal and hold it firmly depressed.
11
While the pedal is held depressed, open
the bleed screw just enough to allow a flow of
fluid to leave the valve. Watch for air bubbles
to exit the submerged end of the tube. When
the fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds,
tighten the screw and have your assistant
slowly release the pedal.
12
Repeat Steps 10 and 11 until no more
air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten the
bleed screw securely and proceed to the
right front wheel, the right rear wheel and the
left front wheel, in that order, and perform the
same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in
the master cylinder reservoir frequently.
13
NEVER use old brake fluid. Brake fluid
absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.
When moisture is present in the hydraulic
system, it will deteriorate the brake system
components and lower the boiling point of
the fluid which could lead to brake failure.
14
After bleeding the system, top up the
brake fluid reservoir and reinstall the bleed
screw dust caps.
15
Check the operation of the brakes. The
pedal should feel solid when depressed, with
no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the
bleeding process. Check for leakage. Warn-
ing: Do not operate the vehicle if the pedal
feels low or spongy, if the ABS light on the
dash won't go off, or if you are in doubt about
the effectiveness of the brake system.
12 Power brake booster - check,
removal and installation
Operating check
1
Depress the brake pedal several times
with the engine off and make sure that there
is no change in the pedal reserve distance.
2
Depress the pedal and start the engine.
If the pedal goes down slightly, operation is
normal.
Airtightness check
3
Start the engine and turn it off after one
or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal sev-
eral times slowly. If the pedal goes down far-
ther the first time but gradually rises after the
second or third depression, the booster is air-
tight.
4
Depress the brake pedal while the
engine is running, then stop the engine with
the pedal depressed. If there is no change in
the pedal reserve travel after holding the
pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.
Removal
Refer to illustrations 12.9 and 12.16
5
The power brake booster unit requires
no special maintenance apart from periodic
inspection of the vacuum hoses and the
case. The booster is not serviceable. If a
problem develops, it must be replaced with a
new one.
6
Disconnect the negative battery cable
from the ground stud on the left shock tower
(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Remove the air
intake resonator and the related ducting
between the throttle body and the air cleaner
(see Chapter 4).
7
If equipped, unplug the cruise control
servo electrical connector. Detach the unit
from the shock tower and position it out of
the way (see illustration 8.2).
8
On models with a V6 engine, remove the
throttle body from the intake manifold (see
Chapter 4). Detach the accelerator cable
bracket from the intake manifold and position
it out of the way (the cable(s) may remain
attached to bracket).
9
Label and detach the electrical connec-
tor and vacuum hose from the purge solenoid
(see illustration).
Remove the purge
solenoid from the vehicle.
10
Disconnect the vacuum hose(s) from the
power brake booster vacuum fitting.
11
Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses
and electrical connector from the EGR valve
transducer (see Chapter 6). Remove the EGR
valve transducer.
12
Disconnect the fluid level sensor con-
nector from the master cylinder reservoir (see
illustration 8.6).
13
On models with a four-cylinder engine, it
is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines
from the master cylinder; simply remove the
mounting nuts (see illustration 8.8) and slide
the master cylinder off the studs and let it rest
on the top of the transaxle (just make sure
you don't kink the metal brake lines).
14
On models with a V6 engine, remove the
master cylinder from the vehicle (see Section
8).
15
On V6 models equipped with an auto
-
matic transaxle, remove the transaxle fluid
dipstick tube. Cover the dipstick tube hole in
the transaxle with duct tape to prevent the
entry of foreign debris.
16
Working inside the vehicle under the
dash, disconnect the power brake pushrod
from the top of the brake pedal by prying off
the retaining clip (see illustration). For safety
reasons, discard the old pushrod retaining
clip and buy a new clip for reassembly.
17
Remove the nuts attaching the booster
to the firewall (see illustration 12.16).
18
Working inside the engine compart-
ment, carefully withdraw the power brake
booster unit from the firewall and out of the
engine compartment.
9
9-14
Chapter 9 Brakes
Installation
19
To install the booster, place it into posi-
tion on the firewall and tighten the retaining
nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specifications. Connect the pushrod to the
brake pedal. Warning: Use a new retainer
clip. DO NOT reuse the old clip.
20
The remaining installation steps are the
reverse of removal.
21
If the master cylinder was removed from
the vehicle, bleed the brake hydraulic system
(see Section 11).
22
Carefully test the operation of the
brakes before placing the vehicle in normal
operation.
13.3 Parking brake lever
details
1
Output cable
adjusting nut
2
Output cable
retaining clip
(DO NOT reuse)
3
Rear cable tension
equalizer
13 Parking brake lever assembly -
removal, installation and
adjustment
Removal
Refer to illustrations 13.3 and 13.6
1
Remove the center console (see Chap-
ter 11).
2
Place the parking brake lever in the fully
released position (down).
3
Loosen the adjusting nut on the output
cable (see illustration).
4
Using a screwdriver, pry the output
cable retaining clip (see illustration 13.3)
from the rear cable tension equalizer and
detach the output cable. Discard the old clip,
it is not to be reused. Note: If the parking
brake lever assembly is going to be replaced,
ignore this step.
5
Disconnect both rear brake cables from
the cable tension equalizer (see illustration
13.3).
6
Unplug the electrical connector from the
parking brake warning light switch (see illus-
tration).
7
Remove the fasteners attaching the
parking brake lever assembly to the center
console bracket.
8
Remove the parking brake lever and the
front output cable as an assembly.
Installation
9
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Install a new cable tension equalizer and out-
put cable retaining clip. Be sure the output
cable retaining clip is firmly attached after
installation. Before installing the center con-
sole, perform the parking brake cable adjust-
ment procedure below.
Adjustment
Refer to illustration 13.12
Note: Anytime the parking brake cable
requires adjustment, the cable tension equal-
izer must be replaced to ensure proper
adjustment.
10
Remove the center console (see Chap-
ter 11).
11
Place the parking brake lever in the fully
released position (down).
12
Tighten the output cable adjusting nut
until 12 mm (approximately 7/16 to 1/2 inch)
of threads are protruding from the nut (see
illustration).
13
Pull the lever back as far as it will travel -
one time only. Fully actuating the lever in this
manner stretches the portion of the cable
tensioner which automatically provides the
correct tension on the cables.
14
After adjustment, verify that the rear
brakes are not dragging on the drums and
the parking brake lever does not exhibit any
freeplay. If either condition exists, tighten or
loosen the output cable adjusting nut as
required.
15 Install the center console (see Chapter
11).
14 Parking brake cables -
replacement
Front cable
Note: Anytime the parking brake cables are
replaced or require adjustment, the cable ten-
sion equalizer must be replaced to ensure
proper adjustment.
Replacement
1
The front output cable is an integral part
of the parking brake lever assembly and
13.6 Parking brake warning light
electrical connector
cannot be replaced separately. If the output
cable requires replacement, replace the park-
ing brake lever assembly (see Section 13).
Rear cables
Removal
Refer to illustrations 14.8, 14.10, 14.11,
14.13, 14.14 and 14.15
2
Remove the center console (see Chap-
ter 11).
3
Place the parking brake lever in the fully
released position (down).
4
Loosen the adjusting nut on the output
cable (see illustration 13.3).
5
Using a screwdriver, pry the output
cable retaining clip (see illustration 13.3)
from the rear cable tension equalizer and
detach the output cable. Discard the old clip
- it is not to be reused.
6
Disconnect both rear brake cables from
the cable tension equalizer (see illustration
13.3).
7
Remove the rear seat assembly (see
Chapter 11).
8
Remove the rear door sill scuff plate on
each side (see illustration).
9
Fold the rear carpeting forward to
expose the parking brake cables.
10
Remove the parking brake cable routing
clip from the floor pan (see illustration).
11
Compress the retaining tabs of the
13.12 Tighten the output cable adjusting
nut onto the cable until 12 mm of
threads are exposed as shown
Chapter 9 Brakes
9-15
REAR PARK
BRAKE CABLES
14.8 Carefully pry off the rear door sill plates from
each rear door jam
14.10 Parking brake cable routing clip
14.11 Sliding a 1/2 inch box-end wrench over the parking brake
cable as shown will compress the retaining clip tabs so
you can remove the cable from the bracket
14.13 If a 1/2 inch box-end wrench isn't available, use a small
hose clamp to compress the parking brake cable
retaining clip tabs
cable housing with a 1/2-inch box-end
wrench or a small hose clamp (see illustra-
tion). Pull the cable through the opening in
the center console bracket. Note: On some
models, the center console rear bracket may
have to be removed.
12
Remove the rear drum brake shoes (see
Section 6).
13
Compress the retaining tabs of the
cable housing with a 1/2-inch box-end
wrench or a small hose clamp and pull the
cable through the brake backing plate (see
illustration).
14
Remove the cable brackets from the
frame rail (see illustration).
15
Remove the cable sealing grommet
from the floor pan (see illustration).
16
Remove the cable assembly from the
vehicle.
Installation
17 Insert the front end of the cable through
the hole in the floor pan and guide the cable
grommet into place.
18 Insert the rear of the cable through the
hole in the brake assembly backing plate.
Make sure the cable is pulled through the
hole far enough to allow the retaining tabs to
expand all the way, locking the cable to the
backing plate.
19 Install the cable brackets onto the
appropriate cable (brackets are unique for left
hand and right hand applications). Install the
brackets onto the frame rail and tighten the
bolts securely.
20
Connect the cable end to the parking
brake lever on the trailing brake shoe and
reassemble the rear brake assembly (see
14.14 Parking brake cable brackets (left
side shown)
14.15 Parking brake cable sealing
grommet as viewed from under
the vehicle
9
9-16
Chapter 9 Brakes
Section 6). Note: If the wheel hub/bearing
assembly was removed, a new hub nut must
be installed.
21
Working inside the vehicle, grasp the
parking brake cable grommet at the floor pan
and pull hard to make sure the grommet is
fully seated to the floor pan. Note: If you're
concerned about the quality of the
grommet-to-floor pan seal, apply some RTV sealant
around the grommet sealing areas.
22 Install the cable into its appropriate
position in the center console bracket and
make sure the cable retainers have expanded
to hold the cable firmly in place. If removed,
install the center console rear bracket.
23
Secure the cables to the floor pan with
the routing clip.
24
Place the carpet back into position and
install both rear door opening sill scuff plates.
25 Install the rear seat assembly (see
Chapter 11).
26
Connect both rear brake cables to the
new cable tension equalizer (see illustration
13.3).
27 Install the parking brake lever output
cable into the cable tension equalizer and
secure with a new retaining clip (see illustra-
tion 13.3). DO NOT reuse the old output
cable retaining clip!
28
Before attempting to adjust the parking
brake cables, start the engine and fully
depress the brake pedal two or three times to
adjust the rear brakes.
29
Adjust the parking brake cable (see
Section 13).
15 Brake light switch - check,
replacement and adjustment
Description
1
The brake light switch is a normally
open switch that controls the operation of the
brake lights. The switch is located near the
top of the brake pedal and is attached to a
bracket. When the brake pedal is applied, the
pedal arm moves away from the switch and a
spring-loaded plunger closes the circuit to
the brake lights.
2
Models equipped with cruise control
use a dual purpose brake light switch that
also deactivates the cruise control system
when the brake pedal is depressed.
Check
3
Check the brake light fuse (see Chap-
ter 12). If the fuse has blown, replace it. If it
blows again, look for a short in the brake light
circuit.
4
If the fuse is okay, use a test light or
voltmeter to verify that there's voltage to the
switch. If there's no voltage to the switch,
look for an open or short in the power wire to
the switch. Repair as necessary.
5
If the brake lights still don't come on
when the brake pedal is applied, unplug the
electrical connector from the brake light
switch and, using an ohmmeter, verify that
there is continuity between the switch termi-
nals when the brake pedal is applied, i.e.
when the switch is closed. If continuity is not
detected, replace the switch.
6
If there is continuity between the switch
terminals when the brake is applied (it closes
the circuit), but the brake lights don't come
on when the brake pedal is applied, check for
power to the brake light bulb sockets when
the pedal is depressed. If voltage is present,
replace the bulbs (it isn't very likely that all of
them would fail simultaneously, but it is pos-
sible that they could be burned out). If volt-
age is not available, check the wiring
between the switch and the brake lights for
an open circuit and repair as necessary.
Replacement and adjustment
Refer to illustration 15.7
7
Depress and hold the brake pedal,
then rotate the brake light switch about
30-degrees in a counterclockwise direction
15.7 The brake light switch (arrow) is
located under the dash and mounted
on a bracket near the brake pedal arm
(dual-purpose brake light/cruise
control switch shown)
(see illustration) and remove it from the
mounting bracket.
8
Unplug the electrical connector from the
switch and remove it from the vehicle.
9
Grasp the switch plunger and pull it out-
ward until it has ratcheted to it's fully
extended position.
10
Depress the brake pedal as far as it will
go, then install the switch in the bracket by
aligning the index key on the switch with the
slot at the top of the square hole in the
mounting bracket. When the switch is fully
installed in the bracket, rotate the switch
clockwise about 30-degrees to lock the
switch into the bracket.
11
Gently pull back on the brake pedal until
the pedal stops moving. The switch plunger
will ratchet backward to the correct position.
Caution: Don't use excessive force when
pulling back on the brake pedal to adjust the
switch. If you use too much force, you will
damage the switch or the striker.
.12
Plug the electrical connector into the
switch.
10-1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering systems
Contents
Section
Balljoints (front) - check. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
General information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hub and bearing assembly (front) - removal and
installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Hub and bearing assembly (rear) - removal and
installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...17
Knuckle/spindle (rear) - removal
and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Lateral links (rear) - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . 13
Lower control arm - removal and installation. . . . . . . . . . .6
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . ... See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and installation . . . . . . . . .23
Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 24
Rear suspension crossmember - removal and installation . . . . ..14
Shock absorber/coil spring assembly (front) -
removal, inspection and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Shock absorber/coil spring - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Shock absorber/coil spring assembly (rear) - removal,
inspection, component replacement and installation . . . . . .11
Section
Stabilizer bar and bushings (front) - removal, inspection
and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..2
Stabilizer bar and bushings (rear) - removal, inspection
and installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . ... See Chapter 1
Steering gear and pressure switch - removal and installation . . . .22
Steering knuckle - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . ... 9
Steering system - general information. . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Steering wheel - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tie-rod ends - removal and installation. . . . . . . . . . . ... 21
Tire and tire pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . ... See Chapter 1
Tire rotation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...See Chapter 1
Trailing link (rear) - removal and installation . . . . . . . . . . .12
Upper balljoint (rear) - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Upper control arm (front) - removal, inspection, and
installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Upper control arm (rear) - removal and installation . . . . . . . . 15
Wheel alignment - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Wheels and tires - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Specifications
Torque specifications
Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
Front suspension
Driveaxle/hub nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Lower control arm front pivot bolt
1995 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
1996 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
1997 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 135
Lower control arm-to-crossmember rear bolt
1995. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
1996 on. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 85
Shock absorber-to-shock tower bolts
1995. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
1996. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
1997 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...70
Shock absorber damper rod nut
1995. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
1996 on. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...40
Shock absorber-to-clevis pinch bolt
1995 through 1999. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..70
2000. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Shock absorber clevis-to-control arm bolt
1995 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
1996 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
1997 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 68
Stabilizer bar attaching link nuts
1995. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1996. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
1997 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 75
Stabilizer bar bushing clamp bolts
1995, 1996 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..21
1997 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...45
Lower balljoint-to-steering knuckle castle nut
1995. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
1996 on. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...55
10
10-2
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems
Torque specifications
Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
Front suspension (continued)
Upper balljoint-to-steering knuckle castle nut
1995. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
1996. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
1997 on. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...40
Upper control arm-to-shock mount bolts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Wheel lug nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Rear suspension
Balljoint-to-knuckle castle nut
1995. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
1996 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...50
Brake support plate mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Crossmember-to-body bolts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 70
Control arm pivot bar-to-crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...79
Hub and bearing assembly-to-knuckle retaining nut . . . . . . . . . ...185
Lateral link-to-knuckle bolts/nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Lateral link jam nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
Lateral link-to-crossmember bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...70
Shock absorber mounting bracket-to-body nuts
1995 models. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...25
1996 and later models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Shock absorber-to-knuckle bolts/nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Shock absorber rod-to-upper mount nut
1995 models. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...55
1996 and later models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Stabilizer bar bushing clamp bolts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...20
Stabilizer-to-lateral link nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Trailing link shaft nuts - both ends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...70
Trailing bracket-to-body bolts
1995 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...70
1996 and later models. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering system
Airbag module retaining nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 90 in-lbs
Power steering pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..40
Power steering fluid pressure and return line fitting nuts . . . . . . . . 23
Power steering fluid pressure banjo
fitting bolt (alternate-to-pressure fitting nut). . . . . . . . . . . ...25
Steering gear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...50
Power steering fluid line tube fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...23
Tie-rod (outer)-to-inner jam lock nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Tie-rod balljoint stud-to-steering knuckle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . ..45
Steering column flex coupler pinch bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 20
Steering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 45
1
General information
Refer
to
illustrations
1.1a,
1.1a b, 1.2a
and
1.2b
The front suspension (see illustrations)
uses coil-over shock absorber assemblies
and unequal length control arms. The upper
end of the shock absorber/coil spring assem-
bly is attached to an aluminum housing in the
inside of the shock tower. The bottom of the
shock absorber is attached to the lower con-
trol arm. The front and rear ends of the lower
control arm are bolted to the front cross-
member. The inner end of the upper control
arm is attached to the aluminum housing in
the shock tower. The steering knuckle is con-
nected to both the upper and lower control
arms through balljoints. The stabilizer bar is
bolted to the suspension cradle and the
underbody of the vehicle and attached to
both lower control arms, which reduces body
roll during cornering.
The rear suspension (see illustrations)
also uses coil-over shock absorber assem-
blies. The coil spring is mounted on the
shock absorber, and the upper end of the
shock is attached to the vehicle body. The
lower end of the shock is attached to the rear
knuckle. The knuckle is located by a pair of
lateral links on each side, and an upper con-
trol arm, plus a longitudinally mounted trailing
li nk between the body and each knuckle.
The power-assisted rack-and-pinion
steering gear is located on the front suspen-
sion crossmember, behind the engine and in
front of the firewall. The steering gear actu-
ates the tie-rods. The tie-rod ends are con-
nected to steering arms on the steering
knuckles. The steering column actuates the
steering gear and is designed to collapse in
the event of an accident.
When working on the suspension or
steering system components, you may come
across fasteners which seem impossible to
loosen. Fasteners on the underside of the
vehicle are continually subjected to water,
road grime, mud, etc., and can become
rusted or "frozen," making them extremely
difficult to remove. To unscrew these fasten-
ers without damaging them (or other compo-
nents), be sure to use lots of penetrating oil
and allow it to soak in for a while. Use a wire
brush to clean exposed threads and ease
removal of the nut or bolt and prevent dam-
age to the threads. A sharp blow with a ham-
mer and punch will sometimes break the
bond between nut and bolt threads, but be
careful to keep the punch from slipping off
the fastener and ruining the threads. Heating
the stuck fastener and surrounding area with
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems
10-3
1.1a Front suspension and steering components
1
Stabilizer bar
4
Brake caliper
7
Steering knuckle
2
Lower control arm
5
Heat shield
8
Tie-rod
3
Brake disc
6
Stabilizer bar bushing retainers
9
Tie-rod end
1.1b Front suspension
and steering details
1
Upper control arm
2
Coil spring
3
Steering knuckle
4
Shock absorber
5
Shock absorber
clevis
6
Tie-rod end
7
Lower control arm
8
Steering gear boot
10
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