Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 5

1-10

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

6.4 Check the fluid with the transaxle at normal operating

temperature - the level should be kept in the HOT range, between

the two upper holes (arrows)

7.2 The power steering reservoir is located on the right

(passenger's) side rear of the engine compartment

(2.5L engine shown)

transaxle to shift through all gears.
2

Park the vehicle on a level surface and

apply the parking brake. With the engine run-
ning, apply the brakes and place the gear
selector lever momentarily in Reverse, then
Drive and repeat the sequence again ending
with the gear selector in the Park position.
3

With the engine still running, locate the

transaxle fluid dipstick near the brake fluid
reservoir. The dipstick has a "T" handle and
is identified as "TRANS FLUID". Remove the
dipstick and wipe the fluid from the end with
a clean rag.
4

Insert the dipstick back into the

transaxle until the cap seats completely.
Remove the dipstick again and note the fluid
level on the end. The level should be in the
area marked Hot (between the two upper
holes in the dipstick) (see illustration). If the

fluid isn't hot (temperature approximately

100-degrees F), the level should be in the
area marked Warm (between the two lower
holes).

5

If the fluid level is at or below the ADD

mark on the dipstick, add just enough of the

specified fluid (see Recommended lubricants
and fluids at the beginning of this Chapter) to
raise the level to within the marks indicated
for the appropriate temperature. Fluid should
be slowly added into the dipstick tube, using
a funnel to prevent spills.
6

DO NOT overfill the transaxle. Never

allow the fluid level to go above the upper
hole on the dipstick - it could cause internal
transaxle damage. The best way to prevent
overfilling is to add fluid a little at a time, driv-
ing the vehicle and checking the level
between additions.
7

Use only transaxle fluid specified by the

manufacturer. This information can be found
in the Recommended lubricants and fluids
Section at the beginning of this Chapter or in
your owner's manual.
8

The condition of the fluid should also be

checked along with the level. If it's a dark
reddish-brown color, or if it smells burned, it

Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.8, 8.13 and 8.18

should be changed. If you're in doubt about

1

Frequent oil changes are the most

the condition of the fluid, purchase some new

important preventive maintenance proce-

fluid and compare the two for color and odor.

dures that can be performed by the home

7.5 The power steering fluid dipstick on

most models is marked on both sides for

checking the fluid level (the arrow is

pointing to the COLD level mark)

mechanic. When engine oil ages, it gets
diluted and contaminated, which ultimately
leads to premature engine wear.

2

Although some sources recommend oil

filter changes every other oil change, a new
filter should be installed every time the oil is
changed.
3

Gather together all necessary tools and

materials before beginning this procedure
(see illustration). Note: To avoid rounding

off the corners of the drain plug, use a box-
end type wrench or socket. In addition, you
should have plenty of clean rags and news-
papers handy to mop up any spills.
4

Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-

port it securely on jackstands. Warning:
Never work under a vehicle that is supported
only by a jack!
5

If this is your first oil change on the vehi-

cle, familiarize yourself with the locations of
the oil drain plug and the oil filter. Since the
engine and exhaust components will be
warm during the actual work, it's a good idea
to figure out any potential problems before-
hand.
6

Allow the engine to warm up to normal

operating temperature. If oil or tools are
needed, use the warm-up time to gather

7

Power steering fluid level check
(every 250 miles or weekly)

Refer to illustrations 7.2 and 7.5
1

Unlike manual steering, the power steer-

ing system relies on hydraulic fluid which
may, over a period of time require replenish-
ing.
2

The fluid reservoir for the power steering

pump is located at the rear of the engine
compartment on the right (passenger's) side
(see illustration).
3

The power steering fluid level can be

checked with the engine either hot or cold.
4

With the engine off, use a rag to clean

the reservoir cap and the area around the

cap. This will help prevent foreign material

from falling into the reservoir when the cap is

removed.
5

Turn and pull out the reservoir cap,

which has a dipstick attached to it. Wipe the

fluid at the bottom of the dipstick with a clean

rag. Reinstall the cap to get a fluid level read-
ing. Remove the cap again and note the fluid
level. It should be at the appropriate mark on

the dipstick in relation to the engine tempera-
ture (see illustration).
6

If additional fluid is required, pour the

specified type fluid (see Recommended lubri-
cants and fluids at the beginning of this
Chapter or your owner's manual) directly into
the reservoir using a funnel to prevent spills.

DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid!

7

If the reservoir requires frequent topping

up, all power steering hoses, hose connec-
tions, the power steering pump and the
steering gear should be carefully examined
for leaks.

8

Engine oil and filter change
(every 7500 miles or 6 months)

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

8.3 These tools are required when

changing the engine oil and filter

Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide to prevent spills and
capable of holding at least 5 quarts

2

Rubber gloves - When removing the
drain plug and filter, you will get oil on

your hands (the gloves will prevent

burns)

3

Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain

plug is tight, and a long breaker bar is

needed to loosen it

4

Socket - To be used with the breaker
bar or a ratchet (must be the correct
size to fit the drain plug - six-point

preferred)

5

Filter wrench - This is a metal band-
type wrench, which requires clearance
around the filter to be effective

6

Filter wrench - This type fits on the
bottom of the filter and can be turned
with a ratchet or breaker bar (different
size wrenches are available for different
types of filters)

everything necessary for the job. The correct
type of oil to buy for your application can be
found in the Recommended lubricants and
fluids Section at the beginning of this Chapter
or your owner's manual.
7

Move all necessary tools, rags and

newspapers under the vehicle. Place a drain
pan capable of holding at least 5 quarts
under the drain plug. Keep in mind that the oil
will initially flow from the engine with some
force, so position the pan accordingly.
8

Being careful not to touch any of the hot

exhaust components, use the breaker bar
and socket or box-end wrench to remove the
drain plug (see illustration). Depending on
how hot the oil is, you may want to wear
gloves while unscrewing the plug the final
few turns.
9

Allow the oil to drain into the pan. It may

be necessary to move the pan further under
the engine as the oil flow reduces to a trickle.
10

After all the oil has completely drained,

clean the plug thoroughly with a rag. Small

8.8 To avoid rounding off the corners, use

the correct size box-end wrench or a

socket to remove the engine oil drain plug

8.18 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with

clean engine oil before installing the filter

on the engine

metal particles may cling to it and would
immediately contaminate the new oil.
11

Clean the area around the drain plug

opening and reinstall the plug. Tighten it to
the torque given in this Chapter's Specifica-
tions.
12

Next, carefully move the drain pan into

position under the oil filter.
13

Now use the filter wrench to loosen the

oil filter in a counterclockwise direction (see
illustration).
14

Sometimes the oil filter is on so tight it

cannot be loosened, or it's positioned in an
area inaccessible with a conventional filter
wrench. Other type of tools, which fit over the
end of the filter and turned with a ratchet or
breaker bar, are available and may be better
suited for removing the filter. If the filter is
extremely tight, position the filter wrench near
the threaded end of the filter, close to the
engine.
15

Completely unscrew the old filter. Be

careful, it's full of oil. Empty the old oil inside
the filter into the drain pan. Note: To make
removing a vertically installed filter a little less
messy, a paper or plastic cup placed over the

8.13 Removing the oil filter

(V6 engine shown)

filter will catch the oil that will drain as it is
unscrewed.
16

Compare the old filter with the new one

to make sure they're identical.
17

Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt

and sludge from the area where the oil filter
seals on the engine. Check the old filter to
make sure the rubber gasket isn't stuck to

the engine mounting surface.

18

Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to

the rubber gasket on the new oil filter (see
illustration).
19 Install the new filter on the engine hand-
tight plus 1/4 turn more. Do not overtighten.
20

Remove all tools and materials from

under the vehicle, being careful not to spill
the oil in the drain pan. Lower the vehicle.
21

Working inside the engine compart-

ment, locate and remove the oil filler cap
from the engine valve cover (see illustra-
tion 4.5).
22

Using a funnel to prevent spills, pour the

specified type and amount of new oil required
(see Specification Section in the beginning of
this Chapter) into the engine. Wait a few min-
utes to allow the oil to drain down to the pan,
then check the level on the dipstick (see Sec-
tion 4 if necessary). If the oil level is at or
above the first notch on the dipstick, start the
engine and allow the new oil to circulate.
23

Run the engine for only about a minute,

then shut it off. Immediately look under the
vehicle and check for leaks at the oil pan
drain plug and around the oil filter. If either
one is leaking, tighten it with a bit more force.
24

With the new oil circulated and the filter

now completely full, wait about ten minutes
for the oil to drain back down into the pan
then recheck the oil level on the dipstick. If
necessary, add enough oil to bring the level
to the second notch on the dipstick. DO NOT
overfill!
25

During the first few trips after an oil

change, make it a point to check for leaks
and keep a close watch on the oil level.
26

The old oil drained from the engine can-

not be reused in its present state and should
be disposed of properly. Oil reclamation cen-
ters, auto repair shops and gas stations will

1

1-12

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

9.6a Use a side terminal battery brush
(available at most auto parts stores) to

clean up the terminal contact area

9.6b The side terminal battery brush

includes a special ring-type portion used
to clean the battery cable sealing recess

around the terminal

9.1 Tools and materials required for

battery maintenance. Note: Items 4 through

7 do not apply to "side" post batteries.

1

Face safety

goggles - When

removing corrosion with a brush, the
acidic particles can easily fly up into
your eyes

2

Baking

soda - A solution

of

baking

soda and water can be used to
neutralize corrosion

3

Petroleum jelly - A layer

of

this on the

battery posts will help prevent corrosion

4

Battery post/cable cleaner - This wire
brush cleaning tool will remove all
traces

of

corrosion from the battery

posts and cable clamps

5

Treated felt washers - Placing one

of

these on each post, directly under the
cable clamps, will help prevent
corrosion

6

Puller - Sometimes the cable clamps
are very difficult to pull off the posts,
even after the nut/bolt has been
completely loosened. This tool pulls the
clamp straight up and off the post
without damage

7

Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is

another cleaning tool which is a slightly

different version

of

Number 4 above, but

it does the same thing

8

Rubber

gloves - Another safety item to

consider when servicing the battery;

remember that's acid inside the battery!

normally accept used oil. After the oil has
cooled, it should be drained into sealable
containers (plastic bottles with screw-on tops
are preferred) for transport to a disposal site.

9

Battery - check, maintenance

and charging (every 7,500 miles
or 6 months)

Warning: Certain precautions must be fol-
lowed when checking and servicing the bat-
tery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive,

is produced by the battery. Keep lighted

tobacco, open flames, bare light bulbs or

other possible sources

of

ignition away from

the battery. Furthermore, the electrolyte

inside the battery is sulfuric acid which is
highly corrosive and can burn your skin and
cause severe injury to your eyes. Always wear
eye protection! It will also destroy clothing
and ruin painted surfaces.

Servicing

Refer to illustrations 9.1, 9.6a and 9.6b

1

A routine preventive maintenance pro-

gram for the battery in your vehicle is the only
way to ensure quick and reliable starts. But
before performing any battery maintenance,
make sure that you have the proper equip-
ment necessary to work safely around the
battery (see illustration).
2

Before servicing the battery, always turn

the engine and all accessories off and dis-
connect the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
3

The battery on these vehicles is located

inside the wheel well of the left front fender.
4

Remove the battery from the vehicle

(see Chapter 5).
5

Inspect the external condition of the

battery. Check the battery case for cracks or
other damage.
6

Clean the battery terminals and cable

connections thoroughly with a wire brush or a
terminal cleaner and a solution of warm water
and baking soda (see illustrations). Wash

the terminals and the top of the battery case

with the same solution but make sure that the
solution doesn't get into the battery. When
cleaning the cables, terminals and battery

top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves
to prevent any solution from coming in con-
tact with your eyes or hands. Wear old
clothes too - even diluted, sulfuric acid
splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them.
Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain
water.
7

Inspect the battery carrier. If it's dirty or

covered with corrosion, clean it with the
same solution of warm water and baking

soda and rinse it with clean water.
8

If the battery is a maintenance-type, it

has removable cell caps which allow you to
add water (use distilled water only) to the bat-

tery when the electrolyte level gets low.
9

If you are not sure what type of battery

you have (some maintenance-types have

recessed cell caps that resemble mainte-
nance-free batteries), one simple way to con-

firm your type of battery is to look for a built-

in hydrometer. Most maintenance-free bat-

teries have built-in hydrometers that indicate
the state of charge by the color displayed in
the hydrometer window since measuring the
specific gravity of the electrolyte is not possi-
ble. Also check for cut-outs near the cell
caps - if the caps can be removed, cut-outs
are usually provided to assist with prying off
the caps.
10 If your battery is a maintenance-type,
remove the cell caps and check the level of
the electrolyte. It should be up the split-ring
inside the battery. If the level is low, add dis-
tilled water (distilled water is mineral-free, tap
water contains minerals that will shorten the
life of your battery) to bring the electrolyte up
to the proper level.
11

Next, check the entire length of each

battery cable for cracks, worn insulation and
frayed conductors. Replace the cable(s) if
necessary.
12 Install the battery (see Chapter 5).

Charging

Warning: The battery produces hydrogen
gas, which is highly explosive. Never create a
spark, smoke or light a match around the bat-

tery. Always charge the battery in a ventilated

area.

13

The battery on these vehicles is located

inside the wheel well of the left front fender.
14

Remove the battery from the vehicle

(see Chapter 5).
15

On maintenance-type batteries, remove

the cell caps. Make sure the electrolyte level

is OK before beginning to charge the battery.

Cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-13

Check for a soft area indicating

the hose has deteriorated inside.

Overtightening the clamp on a

hardened hose will damage the

hose and cause a leak.

Check each hose for swelling and
oil-soaked ends. Cracks and breaks

can be located by squeezing the hose.

10.4a Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit

of failing at the worst possible time - to

prevent the inconvenience of a blown
radiator or heater hose, inspect them

carefully as shown here

spattering electrolyte.
16

On batteries with the terminals located

on the side, install bolts (with the appropriate
thread size and pitch) in the terminals so the
charger can be attached.
17

Connect the battery charger leads to the

battery posts (positive to positive, negative to
negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure
it is set at 12 volts if it has a selector switch. If
the battery charger does not have a built-in
ti mer, its a good idea to use one in case you
forget - you won't over charge the battery.
18 If you're using a charger with a rate
higher than two amps, check the battery reg-
ularly during charging to make sure it doesn't
overheat. If you're using a trickle charger, you
can safely let the battery charge overnight
after you've checked it regularly for the first
couple of hours.
19 If the battery has removable cell caps,

10.4b Squeeze the hoses to locate cracks

or breaks that may cause leaks

measure the specific gravity with a hydrome-
ter every hour during the last few hours of the
charging cycle. Hydrometers are available
inexpensively from auto parts stores - follow
the instructions that come with the hydrome-
ter. Consider the battery charged when
there's no change in the specific gravity read-
ing for two hours and the electrolyte in the
cells is outgassing (bubbling) freely. The spe-
cific gravity reading from each cell should be
very close to the others. If not, the battery
probably has a bad cell(s).
20

Most batteries with sealed tops have

built-in hydrometers on the top that indicate
the state of charge by the color displayed in
the hydrometer window. Normally, a bright-
colored hydrometer indicates a full charge
and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery
still needs charging. Check the battery manu-
facturer's instructions to be sure you know
what the colors mean. Note: It may be neces-
sary to jiggle the battery to bring the test indi-
cator fluid into view.
21

If the battery has a sealed top and does

not have a built-in hydrometer, you can hook
up a voltmeter across the battery terminals to
check the charge. A fully charged battery
should read approximately 12.6 volts or

higher.

22

Further information on the battery and

jump starting can be found in Chapter 5 and
at the front of this manual, respectively.

10 Cooling system - check (every

7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustrations 10.4a and 10.4b
Warning: The electric cooling fan(s) on these
models can activate at any time the ignition
switch is in the ON position. Make sure the
ignition is OFF when working in the vicinity of
the fan(s).

1

Many major engine failures can be

attributed to a faulty cooling system. If the
vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transaxle, a transmission fluid cooler is incor-

porated inside the radiator side tank.

2

The cooling system should be checked

with the engine cold. Do this before the vehi-
cle is driven for the day or after it has been
shut off for three or four hours and the upper
radiator hose feels cool to the touch.
3

Remove the coolant system pressure

cap (see illustration 4.9) and thoroughly
clean the cap with water. Also clean the filler
neck. All traces of corrosion and gum should

be removed.

4

Carefully check the upper and lower

radiator hoses along with the smaller diame-
ter heater hoses. Inspect the entire length of
each hose, replacing any that are cracked,
swollen or deteriorated (see illustration).
Cracks may become more apparent when a

hose is squeezed (see illustration).

5

Also check that all hose connections are

tight. If the vehicle came equipped with
spring-type hose clamps which loose their
tension over time, replace them with the

more reliable screw-type clamps when new
hoses are installed. A leak in the cooling sys-

tem will usually show up as white or rust-col-
ored deposits on the areas adjoining the leak.
6

Use compressed air, water or a soft

brush to remove bugs, leaves, and other

debris from the front of the radiator or air
conditioning condenser. Be careful not to
damage the delicate cooling fins,

or

cut your-

self on them.

7

Finally, have the cap and system pres-

sure tested. If you do not have a pressure
tester available, most gas stations and repair
shops will do this for a minimal charge.

11

Underhood hose - check and
replacement (every 7,500 miles or

6 months)

Warning: Replacement of air conditioning
hoses must be left to a dealer service depart-
ment or air conditioning shop equipped to
depressurize the system safely. Never remove
air conditioning components or hoses until

the system has been depressurized.

General

1

High temperatures under the hood can

cause the deterioration of the rubber and
plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and
emission systems operation. Periodic inspec-

tion should be made for cracks, loose

clamps, material hardening and leaks.

2

Information specific to the cooling sys-

tem hoses can be found in Section 10.

3

Some hoses use clamps to secure the

hoses to fittings. Where clamps are used,
check to be sure they haven't lost their ten-
sion, allowing the hose to leak. Where clamps
are not used, make sure the hose hasn't
expanded and/or hardened where it slips
over the fitting, allowing it to leak.

Vacuum hoses

4

It's quite common for vacuum hoses,

especially those in the emissions system, to
be color coded or identified by colored

1

1-14

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

12.3 Lift the cover and check the mounting nut for tightness

12.5a Depress the release lever and .. .

stripes molded into the hose. Various sys-
tems require hoses with different wall thick-
ness, collapse resistance and temperature
resistance. When replacing hoses, make sure
the new ones are made of the same material
as the original.
5

Often the only effective way to check a

hose is to remove it completely from the vehi-
cle. Where more than one hose is removed,
be sure to label the hoses and their attaching
points to insure proper reattachment.
6

When checking vacuum hoses, be sure

to include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Check the fittings for cracks and the hose
where it fits over the fitting for enlargement,
which could cause leakage.
7

A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch

inside diameter) can be used as a stetho-
scope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end
of the hose to your ear and probe around
vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the
"hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum
leak. Warning: When probing with the vac-
uum hose stethoscope, be careful not to
allow your body or the hose to come into
contact with moving engine components
such as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hose

Warning: Gasoline

is

extremely flammable,

so take extra precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or
allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the
work area, and don't work in a garage where
a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water
heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is

present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse

it off immediately with soap and water. When

you perform any kind of work on the fuel sys-

tem, wear safety glasses and have a Class B
type fire extinguisher on hand. Before work-
ing on any part of the fuel system, relieve the
fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4).
8

Check all rubber fuel hoses for damage

and deterioration. Check especially for
cracks in areas where the hose bends and
just before clamping points, such as where a
hose attaches to the fuel injection system.
9

High

quality fuel line, specifically

designed for fuel injection systems, should
be used for fuel line replacement. Warning:

Never use vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or
water hose for fuel lines.

Brake hoses

10

The hoses used to connect the brake

calipers or wheel cylinders to the metal lines
are subject to extreme working conditions.
They must endure high hydraulic pressures,
heat and still maintain flexibility. The brake
hoses typically can be inspected without
removing the wheels. Carefully examine each
hose for leakage, cracks, bulging, delamina-
tion and damage. If any damage is found, the
hose must be replaced immediately (see
Chapter 9).

Fuel and brake system metal
lines

11

Sections of metal line are often used for

fuel line between the fuel tank and fuel injec-
tion system. Check carefully to be sure the
li ne has not been bent and crimped and that
cracks have not started in the line.
12 If a section of metal fuel line must be
replaced, only seamless steel tubing should
be used, since copper and aluminum tubing
do not have the strength necessary to with-
stand normal engine operating vibration.
13

Check the metal brake lines where they

enter the master cylinder and brake propor-
tioning or ABS unit (if equipped) for cracks in
the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake
fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough
inspection of the brake system.

12 Windshield wiper blade -

inspection and replacement
(every 7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.5a and 12.5b
1

The windshield wiper blade elements

should be checked periodically for cracks
and deterioration.
2

Road film can build up on the wiper

blades and affect their efficiency, so they
should be washed regularly with a mild deter-
gent solution.
3

The action of the wiping mechanism can

12.5b ... slide the wiper element down

out of the hook in the end of the arm

loosen the wiper arm retaining nuts, so they
should be checked and tightened at the
same time the wiper blades are checked (see
illustration).
4

Lift the wiper blade assembly away from

the windshield.
5

Press the release lever and slide the

blade assembly out of the hook in the end of
the wiper arm (see illustrations). Carefully
rest the wiper arm on the windshield.
6

The rubber element is secured to the

blade assembly at one end of the blade ele-
ment channel. Compress the locking feature
on the element so it clears the tangs on the
blade assembly channel claw and then slide
the element out of the frame.
7

Installation is the reverse

of

removal.

Make sure the rubber element and blade

assembly are securely attached.

13 Tire rotation (every 7,500 miles or

6 months)

Refer to illustration 13.2

1

The tires should be rotated at the speci-

fied intervals and whenever uneven wear is
noticed. Since the vehicle will be raised and
the tires removed, this is

a

good time to

check the brakes also (see Section 18).

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-15

LF

RF

LR

RR

RADIAL TIRE ROTATION

1-AJ

HAYNES

13.2 The recommended tire rotation

pattern for these models

14 Steering and suspension - check

(every 7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustrations 14.5 and 14.10
1

Whenever the vehicle is raised for ser-

vice it is a good idea to visually check the
suspension and steering components for
wear and damage.
2

Indications of wear and damage include

excessive play in the steering wheel before
the front wheels react, excessive lean around
corners, body movement over rough roads or
binding at some point as the steering wheel is
turned.
3

Before the vehicle is raised for inspec-

tion, test the shock absorbers by pushing
down to rock the vehicle at each corner. If it
does not come back to a level position within
one or two bounces, the shocks are worn
and should be replaced (see Chapter 10). As
you perform this procedure, check for

squeaks and unusual noises from the sus-
pension components. Check the shock
absorbers for fluid leakage.
4

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a
vehicle that is supported only by a jack!
5

Working under the vehicle, check for

loose bolts, cracked, broken or disconnected
parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all
suspension

and

steering

components

(shocks, springs, control arms, etc.). Look for
grease or fluid leaking from around the steer-
ing gear input shaft and tie-rod boots (see
illustration). Check the power steering
hoses, cooler and connections for leaks.
6

Have an assistant turn the steering

wheel from side-to-side and check the steer-
ing components for free movement, chafing

,and binding. If the wheels don't respond

closely to the movement of the steering
wheel, determine where the slack is located.
7

Check the tie-rod ends and ball joints

for wear. They are designed not to have any
free play. Using a pry bar or other method,
attempt to create movement (up/down and
side-to-side) in the tie-rod ends and ball

joints. If any movement is seen or felt, a worn

balljoint is indicated. To service the tie-rod
ends and ball joints see Chapter 10.
8

Next, have an assistant grasp the tire at

the sides and pivot the tire in an in-and-out
motion (left-to-right) while you are touching
the tie-rod end. If any looseness is felt, sus-
pect a loose tie-rod stud nut, worn out tie-rod
stud or a widened hole in the steering
knuckle boss. If the latter problem exists, the
steering knuckle should be renewed along
with the tie-rod (see Chapter 10).
9

Check the rear suspension ball joints for

wear as described in Step 7. Inspect the trail-
ing arms and lateral links for damage, loose-
ness or worn bushings. If replacement is nec-
essary, see Chapter 10.
10

Check each wheel bearing for excessive

free play by grasping the wheel at the top and
bottom, then pivot the wheel on the spindle
(see illustration). The free play should be
minimal, zero (no play) to approximately 1/16
inch. Next, spin the wheel and listen for a

14.10 Checking the wheel bearing freeplay

grinding noise or roughness in the bearings.
Don't mistake light brake drag for a wheel
bearing problem. Note: The wheel bearings,
front and rear, are integral with the wheel
hubs. They are "lubricated for life" and are not
serviceable. If the hub/wheel bearing assem-
bly has excessive play or they feel rough or
noisy, replace them (see Chapter 10).

15 Exhaust system - check (every

7,500 or 6 months)

Refer to illustration 15.3
Note: Perform the following procedure with
the engine cold.
1

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a
vehicle that is supported only by a jack!
2

With the engine cold (at least three

hours after the vehicle has been driven),
check the complete exhaust system from its
starting point at the engine to the end of the
tailpipe.
3

Check the pipes and connections for

signs of leakage and/or corrosion indicating a
potential failure. Make sure that all brackets
and hangers are in good condition and tight
(see illustration).

15.3 Check the exhaust system

connections, clamps, mounting bolts,

brackets and hangers for damage (arrows)

2

Radial tires must be rotated in a specific

pattern (see illustration).

3

See the information in Jacking and tow-

ing at the front of this manual for the proper

procedures to follow when raising the vehicle
and changing a tire; however, if the brakes
are to be checked, don't apply the parking
brake as stated. Make sure the tires are
blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
Note: Prior to raising the vehicle, loosen all

lug nuts a quarter turn.

4

Preferably, the entire vehicle should be

raised at the same time. This can be done on
a hoist or by jacking up each corner of the
vehicle and lowering it onto jackstands.

Always use jackstands and make sure the

vehicle is safely supported. Warning: Never
work under a vehicle that is supported only by

a jack!

5

After the tire rotation, check and adjust

the tire pressures as necessary and tighten

the wheel lug nuts to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

14.5 Checking the steering rack tie-rod

boot for damage

1

1-16

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

16.4 Pry the rubber plug from the oil fill

hole on the side of the transaxle housing

17.3 Check each driveaxle inner and

outer boot for cracks and/or

leaking grease

18.5 Measure the thickness of the brake

pad from the metal backing to the brake

disc - note the inner pad generally wears

faster than the outer pad so measure both

of them

4

At the same time, inspect the underside

of the body for holes, corrosion and open
seams which may allow exhaust gases to
enter the passenger compartment. Seal all
body openings with silicone sealant or body
putty.
5

Rattles and other noises can often be

traced to the exhaust system, especially the
mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes,
muffler and catalytic converter. If the compo-
nents can come into contact with the body,
secure the exhaust system with new mounts.
6

This is also an ideal time to check the

running condition of the engine by inspecting

the very end of the tailpipe. The exhaust
deposits here are an indication of the
engine's state-of-tune. If the pipe is black
and sooty or coated with white deposits, the
engine may be in need of a tune-up (including
a thorough fuel injection system inspection).

16 Manual transaxle - lubricant level

check (every 7500 miles or 6
months)

Refer to illustration 16.4

1

Manual transaxles do not have a fluid

dipstick. The lubricant level is checked by
removing a rubber plug from the side of the
transaxle case. The lubricant level should be
checked with the engine cold and the vehicle
level.
2

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands in a level position. Warning:
Never work under a vehicle that is supported
only by a jack!
3

Locate the rubber plug on the left

(driver's) side of the transaxle differential near

the driveaxle shaft. Use a rag to clean it and
the surrounding area. It may be necessary to

remove the left inner fenderwell cover for
access to the plug. Place a drain pan under

the transaxle.

4

Using pliers or a large screwdriver,

remove the plug (see illustration). If oil
begins to run out, let it find its own level (pre-

suming the vehicle is relatively level). If oil

does not run out, insert your finger to feel the
lubricant level. It should be within 3/16 of the
bottom of the plug hole.
5

If the transaxle requires additional lubri-

cant, use a funnel with a rubber tube or a
syringe to pour or squeeze the recommended
lubricant into the plug hole to restore the
level. If you overfill it, let the fluid run out until
it is level with the plug hole. Caution: Use
only the specified transaxle lubricant - see
Recommended lubricants and fluids at the

beginning of this Chapter or your owner's

manual. Note: Most auto parts stores sell

pumps that screw into the oil containers

which make this job much easier and less

messy.

6

Push the plug securely back into the

transaxle and lower the vehicle. Test drive it
and check for leaks.

17 Driveaxle boot - check (every

7,500 miles or 6 months)

Refer to illustration 17.3

1

If the driveaxle boots are damaged, let-

ting grease out and water in, serious not to

mention costly damage can occur to the CV

joints. The boots should be inspected very
carefully at the recommended intervals or
anytime the vehicle is raised.
2

Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-

port it securely on jackstands. Warning:
Never work under a vehicle that is supported
only by a jack!
3

Place the transaxle in Neutral. While

rotating the wheels, inspect the four driveaxle
boots (two on each driveaxle) very carefully
for cracks, tears, holes, deteriorated rubber
and loose or missing clamps (see illustra-
tion). If the boots are dirty, wipe them clean
before beginning the inspection.
4

If damage or deterioration is evident,

replace the boots and check the CV joints for
damage (see Chapter 8).
5

Place the transaxle in Park or in-gear as

applicable and lower the vehicle.

18 Brake system - check (every

15,000 miles or 12 months)

Warning: Dust created by the brake system
may contain asbestos, which is harmful to

your health. Never blow it out with com-

pressed air and don't inhale any of it. An
approved filtering mask should be worn when
working on brakes. Do not, under any circum-
stances, use petroleum-based solvents to
clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner
only!
1

The brakes should be inspected every

ti me the wheels are removed or whenever a
defect is suspected. Indications of a potential
brake system problem include the vehicle
pulling to one side when the brake pedal is
depressed, noises coming from the brakes
when they are applied, excessive brake pedal
travel, a pulsating pedal and leakage of fluid,
usually seen on the inside of the tire or wheel.
Note: It is normal for a vehicle equipped with

an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) to exhibit
brake pedal pulsation's during severe braking

conditions.

Disc brakes

Refer to illustrations 18.5
2

Disc brakes can be visually checked

without removing any parts except the
wheels. Remove the hub caps (if applicable)
and loosen the front wheel lug nuts a quarter
turn each.
3

Raise the front of the vehicle and place it

securely on jackstands. Warning: Never work
under a vehicle that is supported only by a

jack!

4

Remove the front wheels. Now visible is

the disc brake caliper which contains the
pads. There is an outer brake pad and an
inner pad. Both must be checked for wear.
Note: Usually the inner pad wears faster than
the outer pad.
5

Measure the pad thickness at each end

of the caliper (see illustration) and through
the inspection hole in the caliper body. Com-
pare the measurement with the limit given in

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-17

18.14 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining

thickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown

here: if the lining is riveted to the shoe, measure from the lining

outer surface to the rivet head

18.17 Pry the boot away from the cylinder and check

for fluid leakage

1

this Chapter's Specifications, if any brake
pad thickness is less than specified, then all
brake pads must be replaced (see Chapter 9).
6

If you're in doubt as to the exact pad

thickness or quality, remove them for mea-
surement and further inspection (see Chap-
ter 9).
7

Before installing the wheels, check the

brake hoses for leakage and damage (cracks,
leaks, chafed areas, etc.). Replace the hoses
or fittings as necessary (see Chapter 9).
8

Check the disc for score marks, wear

and burned spots. If any of these conditions
exist, the disc should be removed for servic-
ing or replacement (see Chapter 9).
9

Install the front wheels, lower the vehicle

and tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque
given in this Chapter's Specifications.

Drum brakes

Refer to illustrations 18.14 and 18.17

10

Remove the hub caps (if applicable) and

loosen the wheel lug nuts a quarter turn each.
11

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support

it securely on jackstands. Warning: Never

work under a vehicle that is supported only by
a jack! Block the front wheels to prevent the
vehicle from rolling, however, do not apply
the parking brake or it will lock the drums in
place. Remove the rear wheels.

12

Remove the brake drum as described in

Chapter 9.

13

With the drum removed, carefully clean

off any accumulations of dirt and dust using
brake system cleaner. Warning: DO NOT
blow the dust out with compressed air and
don't inhale any of it (it may contain asbestos,
which is harmful to your health).
14

Measure the thickness of the lining

material on both leading and trailing brake
shoes (see illustration). Compare the mea-
surement with the limit given in this Chapter's
Specifications, if any brake shoe thickness is
less than specified, then all brake shoes must
be replaced (see Chapter 9).
15 Inspect the brake shoes for uneven wear
patterns, cracks, glazing and delamination
and replace if necessary. If the shoes have
been saturated with brake fluid, oil or grease,

this also necessitates replacement (see
Chapter 9).
16

Make sure all the brake assembly

springs are connected and in good condition.
17

Check the brake wheel cylinder for signs

of fluid leakage. Carefully pry back the rubber
dust boots on the wheel cylinder (see illus-

tration). Any leakage here is an indication
that the wheel cylinders must be overhauled

immediately (see Chapter 9). Also, check all
hoses and connections for signs of leakage.
18

Wipe the inside of the drum with a clean

rag and denatured alcohol or brake cleaner.

Again, be careful not to breathe the danger-
ous asbestos dust.

19 Inspect the inside of the drum for

cracks, score marks, deep scratches and

"hard spots" which will appear as small dis-

colored areas. If imperfections cannot be
removed with fine emery cloth, the drum
must be taken to an automotive machine
shop for resurfacing.
20

Repeat the procedure for the remaining

wheel.
21

Install the wheels, lower the vehicle and

tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque given
in this Chapter's Specifications.

Parking brake

22

The easiest, and perhaps most obvious,

method of periodically checking the operation
of the parking brake assembly is to park the
vehicle on a steep hill with the parking brake
set and the transmission in Neutral. If the
parking brake cannot prevent the vehicle from
rolling, it needs adjustment (see Chapter 9).

19 Fuel system hoses and

connections - check (every
15,000 miles or 12 months)

Refer to illustration 19.5
Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable,

so take extra precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or
allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the

work area, and don't work in a garage where

a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water

heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is

present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse
it off immediately with soap and water. When
you perform any kind of work on the fuel sys-

tem, wear safety glasses and have a Class B
type fire extinguisher on hand.
1

If the smell of gasoline is noticed while

driving, or after the vehicle has been parked
in the sun, the fuel system and evaporative
emissions system (see Section 26) should be

thoroughly inspected immediately.

2

The fuel system is under pressure even

when the engine is off. Consequently, the fuel
system must be depressurized before servic-

ing the system (see Chapter 4). Even after

depressurization, if any fuel lines are discon-

nected for servicing, be prepared to catch

some fuel as it spills out. Plug all discon-

nected fuel lines immediately to prevent the

tank from emptying itself.
3

Remove the gas tank filler cap and

check for damage, corrosion and a proper
sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace the
cap with a new one if necessary.
4

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a
vehicle that is supported only by a jack!
5

Inspect the gas tank and filler neck for

punctures, cracks and other damage. The
hose connection between the filler neck and
the tank is especially critical (see illustra-

19.5 Fuel filler neck-to-tank hose (arrow)