Peugeot 205. Manual — part 9

2

Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment

3

Note: The valve clearances must be checked
and adjusted only when the engine is cold.
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances are
too big, the engine will be noisy (characteristic
rattling or tapping noises) and engine efficiency
will be reduced, as the valves open too late and
close too early. A more serious problem arises if
the clearances are too small, however. If this is
the case, the valves may not close fully when
the engine is hot, resulting in serious damage to
the engine (eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder
head warping/cracking).

Checking

2 Remove the air cleaner and ducts as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose.
4 Remove the camshaft cover, trying not to
damage the gasket.
5 Have ready a pencil and paper to record the
measured clearances.
6 Turn the crankshaft using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt until the cam lobe

nearest the flywheel end of the engine is
pointing vertically upwards (see illustration).

7 Using feeler blades, measure the clearance
between the base of the cam and the cam
follower (see illustration). Record the
clearance.
8 Repeat the measurement for the other
seven valves, turning the crankshaft as
necessary so that the cam lobe in question is
always vertically upwards.
9 Calculate the difference between each
measured clearance and the desired value
(see Specifications). Note that the value for
inlet valves is different from that for exhaust.
Counting from either end of the engine, the
valve sequence is:
Exhaust - Inlet - Inlet - Exhaust - Exhaust -
Inlet - Inlet - Exhaust.
10 If any clearance measured is outside the
specified tolerance, adjustment must be carried
out as described below. If all clearances are
within tolerance, refit the camshaft cover, using
a new gasket if necessary. Note the diagnostic
socket and copper washer under the bolt at the
timing belt end on certain engines.

Adjustment

11 To adjust the clearances remove the
camshaft as described in Section 7.
12 Lift off a cam follower and its shim. Be
careful that the shim does not fall out of the
follower. Clean the shim and measure its
thickness with a micrometer (see
illustrations).
13 Refer to the clearance recorded for the
valve concerned. If the clearance was larger
than specified, a thicker shim must be fitted; if
the clearance was too small, a thinner shim
must be fitted.

Sample calculation - clearance too
large:

Desired clearance (A) 0.20 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.28 mm
Difference (B - A) = + 0.08 mm
Original shim thickness 2.62 mm
Req’d shim thickness 2.62 + 0.08 = 2.70 mm

Sample calculation - clearance too
small:

Desired clearance (A) 0.40 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.23 mm
Difference (B-A) = -0.17 mm
Original shim thickness 2.86 mm
Req’d shim thickness 2.86 - 0.17 = 2.69 mm

14 Shims are available in thicknesses from
1.650 to 4.000 mm, in steps of 0.025 mm in
the middle of the range and at the ends in
steps of 0.075 mm. Clean new shims before
measuring or fitting them.
15 Repeat the operations on the other cam
followers and shims, keeping each follower
identified so that it can be refitted in the same
position.
16 When reassembling, oil the shim and fit it
on the valve stem, then oil the cam follower
and lower it smoothly into position. If the
follower is raised at any stage the shim may
be dislodged.
17 When all the followers are in position with
their shims, refit the camshaft. Check the
valve clearances before refitting the timing
belt in case a mistake has been made and the
camshaft has to be removed again. With the
timing belt disconnected the camshaft will not
be moved by rotation of the crankshaft.
Before rotating the camshaft alone, position
all the pistons halfway down the bores to
avoid piston-to-valve contact.

XU series engine in-car repair procedures 2B•3

2B

2.6 Valve clearance is measured at point J and altered by shim (4)

2.7 Using feeler blades to measure a valve

clearance

2.12a Lift off the cam follower and

shim . . .

2.12b . . . then measure the shim thickness

with a micrometer

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.

3

Compression test -
description and interpretation

Refer to Part A, Section 3 but on engines

with a static distributorless ignition system,
disable the ignition by depressing the
retaining clip and disconnecting the wiring
connector from the ignition module.

4

Timing belt - general
information, removal and
refitting

3

General information

1 The timing belt drives the camshaft and
coolant pump from a toothed sprocket on the
front of the crankshaft. If the belt breaks or
slips in service, the pistons are likely to hit the
valve heads, resulting in extensive (and
expensive) damage.
2 The timing belt should be renewed at the
specified intervals (see Chapter 1), or earlier if
it is contaminated with oil, or if it is at all noisy
in operation (a “scraping” noise due to uneven
wear).
3 If the timing belt is being removed, it is a

wise precaution to check the condition of the
coolant pump at the same time (check for
signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the
need to remove the timing belt again at a later
stage, should the coolant pump fail.

Removal

4 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
6 Remove the inner shield from the
right-hand wheel arch and wedge the radiator
bottom hose under the sump.
7 Remove the shield from the camshaft
sprocket.

8 Remove the plastic covers from the front of
the timing belt. Note the location of the
various bolts.
9 Observe the timing belt tensioner assembly
and ascertain whether it is of the spring-
loaded type or the later eccentric roller type
(see illustration). Proceed as follows under
the appropriate sub-heading according to
type fitted.

Models with spring-loaded tensioner

10 Turn the crankshaft using a spanner on
the pulley bolt until the dowel hole in the
pulley is at about 12 o’clock and the hole in
the camshaft sprocket is at about 7 o’clock. In
this position a 10 mm dowel should pass
through each hole and into the timing recess
behind. Verify this and then remove the
dowels (see illustration).
11 Remove the clutch bottom shield. Have
an assistant jam the starter ring gear while the
crankshaft pulley bolt is undone. This bolt is
very tight. Do not jam the pulley by means of
the timing dowel: damage will result. Remove
the bolt and washer.
12 Check that the 10 mm dowels will still
enter the timing holes: adjust the crankshaft
position if necessary by means of the starter
ring gear. Remove the crankshaft pulley,
retrieving the Woodruff key if it is loose.

2B•4 XU series engine in-car repair procedures

4.10 Crankshaft and camshaft sprockets

locked with timing dowels

4.9 Spring loaded timing belt tensioner (earlier assembly) and eccentric roller type tensioner (later assembly)

1 Right-hand engine mounting

2

Timing belt

3

Tensioner roller

4

Tensioner roller nut

13 Slacken the two nuts on the front of the
timing belt tensioner and the single nut at the
rear. Use a spanner on the square end of the
tensioner cam spindle to turn the cam to the
horizontal position and so compress the
tensioner spring (see illustrations). Tighten
the cam locknut.
14 Remove the timing belt, taking care not to
kink it or contaminate it with oil if it is to be
re-used. Draw an arrow on the belt using
chalk to mark the running direction unless a
new belt is to be fitted.
15 Check the timing belt carefully for any
signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil
contamination. Pay particular attention to the
roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the
slightest doubt about its condition. If the
engine is undergoing an overhaul, and has
covered more than 36 000 miles (60 000 km)
with the existing belt fitted, renew the belt as a
matter of course, regardless of its apparent
condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing
compared with the cost of repairs, should the
belt break in service. If signs of oil
contamination are found, trace the source of
the oil leak and rectify it. Wash down the
engine timing belt area and all related
components, to remove all traces of oil. If the
timing belt is to be renewed, ensure that the
correct belt type is obtained - the timing belt
used with the earlier spring-loaded tensioner
is not interchangeable with the later type.

Models with eccentric roller tensioner

Note: Peugeot specify the use of special tool
(SEEM C. TRONIC type 105 or 105.5 belt
tension measuring equipment) to correctly set
the belt tension. If this equipment cannot be
obtained, an approximate setting can be
achieved using the method described below.
If the method described here is used, the
tension must be checked using the special
equipment at the earliest opportunity. Do not
drive the vehicle over large distances, or use
high engine speeds until the belt tension is
known to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot
dealer for advice.
16 Proceed as described in paragraphs 10
to 12, noting that the crankshaft pulley timing
dowel must be of 10 mm diameter, stepped
down to 8 mm at one end to engage with the
smaller hole in the timing recess.

17 Slacken the tensioner roller bolt to relieve
the belt tension, then withdraw the belt, noting
the direction of fitting and the markings. Take
care not to kink it or contaminate it with oil if it
is to be re-used. Draw an arrow on the belt
using chalk to mark the running direction
unless a new belt is to be fitted.
18 Examine the belt carefully with reference
to paragraph 15.

Refitting

Models with spring-loaded tensioner

19 Commence refitting by positioning the
belt on the crankshaft sprocket, then refitting
the pulley and verifying the correct position of
the crankshaft by means of the dowel.
Observe the arrows on the belt showing the
direction of rotation, and the timing lines
which align with marks on the crankshaft and
camshaft sprockets (see illustration).
20 Fit the belt to the camshaft sprocket,
round the tensioner and to the coolant pump
sprocket.
21 Release the tensioner cam locknut and
turn the cam downwards to release the
spring. Tighten the locknut and the tensioner
front nuts.
22 Remove the timing dowels and turn the
crankshaft through two full turns in the normal
direction of rotation. Turn the crankshaft further
to bring No 1 piston to TDC on the firing stroke.
23 Slacken the tensioner front nuts and the
cam locknut, then retighten them.
24 Turn the crankshaft further and make sure
that the timing dowels can still be inserted. If
not, remove the drivebelt and start again.
25 If a new belt has been fitted, it must be
run in and retensioned, as follows.
26 Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the
specified torque, then refit and tension the
auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). Temporarily
refit the camshaft sprocket cover.
27 Run the engine up to operating
temperature, indicated by the cooling fan
operating, then stop it and allow it to cool for
at least two hours.
28 Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC position,
No 1 cylinder firing, then slacken and
retighten the tensioner nuts once more.
29 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt and the
crankshaft pulley. Refit and secure the plastic

covers, then refit the pulley and tighten its
bolts to the specified torque. Refit and tension
the auxiliary drivebelt.
30 Check the ignition timing and adjust if
necessary (Chapter 5B).

Models with eccentric roller tensioner

31 Commence refitting by slipping the belt
over the camshaft sprocket, followed by the
crankshaft sprocket, the coolant pump
sprocket, and finally over the tensioner roller.
Observe the arrows on the belt indicating the
direction of rotation, and the timing lines
which align with corresponding marks on the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.
32 With the camshaft timing dowel fitted,
rotate the tensioner roller anti-clockwise by
hand as far as possible to take up any slack in
the belt, then tighten the tensioner roller bolt
sufficiently to hold the roller in position. If the
special belt tension measuring equipment is
available, it should be fitted to the tensioned
run of the belt, and the tensioner roller should
be moved to give a reading of 30 ± 2 units.
Tighten the roller bolt to the specified torque,
taking care not to move the roller as the bolt is
tightened.
33 Check that the crankshaft and camshaft
are still positioned correctly by temporarily
refitting the crankshaft pulley and re-inserting
the timing dowel.
34 Remove the timing dowels, temporarily
refit the crankshaft pulley, and turn the
crankshaft through two full turns in the normal
direction of rotation. Check that both timing
dowels can still be inserted. If not, remove the
drivebelt and start again. Never turn the
crankshaft backwards during this procedure.
35 If all is well, remove the dowels, and turn
the crankshaft through two further turns in the
normal direction of rotation.
36 Refit the camshaft timing dowel, and check
that the belt can just be twisted through 90°
(using moderate pressure from the forefinger
and thumb) at the midpoint of the longest belt
run between the camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets. If in doubt about this setting, it is
better to err on the tight side until the tension
can be checked by a Peugeot dealer; if the belt
is too slack, it may jump on the sprockets,
which could cause serious engine damage. If
the special belt tension measuring equipment

XU series engine in-car repair procedures 2B•5

2B

4.13a Slacken the two nuts at the front of

the timing belt tensioner . . .

4.13b . . . and turn the tensioner cam

spindle to the horizontal position

4.19 Timing line on belt aligned with mark

on camshaft sprocket

is available, it should be refitted to the
tensioned run of the belt. The reading should
now be between 42 and 46 units.
37 If the tension is not as specified, repeat
the tensioning operation.
38 Refit the belt covers and the crankshaft
pulley. Apply thread locking compound to the
crankshaft pulley bolt threads, and tighten the
bolt to the specified torque.
39 On completion, refit all disturbed
components, and tension the auxiliary
drivebelt, as described in Chapter 1.

5

Timing belt tensioner and
sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting

3

Removal

Camshaft sprocket

1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 4.
2 Remove the locking pin from the camshaft
sprocket, slacken the sprocket retaining bolt
and remove it, along with its washer. To
prevent the camshaft rotating as the bolt is
slackened, restrain the sprocket with a
suitable tool through the holes in the sprocket
face (see Tool Tip). Do not attempt to use the
sprocket locking pin to prevent the sprocket
from rotating whilst the bolt is slackened.
3 With the retaining bolt removed, slide the
sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the
locating peg is a loose fit in the rear of the
sprocket, remove it for safe-keeping. Examine
the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage
and, if necessary, renew it as described in
Section 6.

Crankshaft sprocket

4 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 4.
5 Slide the sprocket off the end of the
crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key from
the crankshaft, and store it with the sprocket
for safe-keeping. Where necessary, also slide
the spacer (where fitted) off the end of the
crankshaft.
6 Examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of
oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it as
described in Section 12.

Tensioner assembly (models with
spring-loaded tensioner)

7 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 4.
8 Undo the two bolts at the front and single
nut at the rear and withdraw the spring
housing spring and tensioner pulley. Take
care to keep the spring under control as the
bolts are undone to prevent it flying out.

Tensioner assembly (models with
eccentric roller tensioner)

9 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 4.
10 Slacken and remove the timing belt
tensioner pulley retaining bolt, and slide the
pulley off its mounting stud. Examine the
mounting stud for signs of damage and if
necessary, renew it.

Inspection

11 Clean the camshaft/crankshaft sprockets
thoroughly, and renew any that show signs of
wear, damage or cracks.
12 Clean the tensioner assembly, but do not
use any strong solvent which may enter the
pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates
freely on the backplate, with no sign of
stiffness or free play (see illustration). Renew
the assembly if there is any doubt about its
condition, or if there are any obvious signs of
wear or damage.

Refitting

Camshaft sprocket

13 Refit the locating peg (where removed) to
the rear of the sprocket. Locate the sprocket
on the end of the camshaft, ensuring that the
locating peg is correctly engaged with the
cut-out in the camshaft end.

14 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque.
Retain the sprocket with the tool used on
removal. Note that on early models the
sprocket is secured with an M12 bolt whereas
this has been reduced to M10 on later
engines. Ensure that the correct torque
wrench setting is used according to bolt type.
15 Realign the hole in the camshaft sprocket
with the corresponding hole in the cylinder
head, and refit the locking pin. Check that the
crankshaft pulley locking pin is still in position.
16 Refit the timing belt (Section 4).

Crankshaft sprocket

17 Slide the spacer (where fitted) into
position, taking great care not to damage the
crankshaft oil seal, and refit the Woodruff key
to its slot in the crankshaft end.
18 Slide on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning
its slot with the Woodruff key.
19 Refit the timing belt (Section 4).

Tensioner assembly (models with
spring-loaded tensioner)

20 Assemble the tensioner spring, spring
housing and pulley then locate the assembly
on the engine.
21 Fit the front bolts and rear locknut finger
tight only. Use a spanner on the square end of
the tensioner cam spindle to turn the cam to
the horizontal position and so compress the
tensioner spring. Tighten the cam locknut.
22 Refit the timing belt (Section 4).

Tensioner assembly (models with
eccentric roller tensioner)

23 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting
stud, and fit the retaining bolt.
24 Refit the timing belt (Section 4).

6

Camshaft oil seal - renewal

3

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 5. Remove the rear cover
plate behind the sprocket.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and drive it into position until it
seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Note that the seal lips should face inwards.
5 Refit the sprocket rear cover plate, locate it
correctly with a 10 mm dowel and tighten its
fastenings.
6 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 5.

2B•6 XU series engine in-car repair procedures

5.12 Spring loaded timing belt tensioner

components

To make a camshaft sprocket holding
tool, obtain two lengths of steel strip
about 6 mm thick by 30 mm wide or
similar, one 600 mm long, the other 200
mm long (all dimensions approximate).
Bolt the two strips together to form a
forked end, leaving the bolt slack so
that the shorter strip can pivot freely. At
the end of each ‘prong’ of the fork,
secure a bolt with a nut and a locknut,
to act as the fulcrums; these will engage
with the cut-outs in the sprocket, and
should protrude by about 30 mm