Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual — part 2

Roadside Repairs

0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided.
M Before being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
M Note that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
M On models with power steering, greater-
than-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
M Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drive
smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
M On models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or

obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil

Gearbox oil

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

0•10

Weekly Checks

There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent.

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when

your brakes don't work properly. Checking

the level regularly will give advance warning of

this kind of problem.
M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far

greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

§ 1.6 litre

carburettor

A

Engine oil level dipstick

B

Engine oil filler cap

C

Coolant filler cap

D

Brake fluid reservoir

E

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Underbonnet check points

§ 1.6 litre

fuel injection

A

Engine oil level dipstick

B

Engine oil filler cap

C

Coolant filler cap

D

Brake fluid reservoir

E

Power steering fluid reservoir

F

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Weekly Checks

0•11

§ 1.9 litre

A

Engine oil level dipstick

B

Engine oil filler cap

C

Coolant filler cap

D

Brake fluid reservoir

E

Power steering fluid reservoir

F

Screen washer fluid reservoir

§ 2.0 litre

A

Engine oil level dipstick

B

Engine oil filler cap

C

Coolant filler cap

D

Brake fluid reservoir

E

Power steering fluid reservoir

F

Screen washer fluid reservoir

0•12

Weekly Checks

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system,
adding coolant should not be necessary on a
regular basis. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the
radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of
staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in
the cooling system all year round, not just
during the winter months. Don’t top-up with
water alone, as the antifreeze will become
too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with engine
temperature. When cold, the coolant
level should be on the “MAXI” mark

(arrowed). When the engine is hot, the level
may rise slightly above the “MAXI” mark.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Unscrew the expansion
tank cap to the first stop, to release any

pressure present in the system. Push the cap
down, turn to the second stop, and remove it.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
through the expansion tank filler neck,
until the coolant level is up to the “MAXI”

level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise
as far as it will go to secure.

1

2

3

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure your car is on level ground.

4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
tyre pressures”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you
should check whether you have any oil leaks.
Place some clean paper under the car
overnight, and check for stains in the morning.
If there are no leaks, the engine may be
burning oil (see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick top is often brightly coloured
for easy identification (see “Underbonnet
check points” on pages 0•10 and 0•11

for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the
upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN")

mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise
the level from the lower mark to the upper
mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add

the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

1

2

3

4

Weekly Checks

0•13

Brake fluid level

Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it.

Warning: Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it absorbs
moisture from the air, which can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground.
4 On models with ABS (anti-lock brakes),

switch the ignition off and pump the brake
pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal
feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch on
the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will
be heard running. Wait until the pump
stops, then switch off the ignition.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not
be driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.

The fluid level in the reservoir
will drop slightly as the brake
pads wear down, but the
fluid level must never be

allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” (A) and “DANGER” (B) marks
are indicated on the side of the reservoir,
which is located in the scuttle at the rear
driver’s side of the engine compartment.

The fluid level must be kept between these
two marks.

1

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag
before removing the cap. Check the fluid

already in the reservoir - the system should be
drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid
(see Chapter 9 for details).

2

Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on
surrounding paintwork. Use only the
specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different

types of fluid can cause damage to the
system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness.
After filling to the correct level, refit the cap
securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

3

Check the operation of the low fluid level
warning light. Chock the roadwheels,
release the handbrake, and switch on the

ignition. Ask an assistant to press the button on
top of the reservoir. The brake fluid level/
handbrake warning light should come on. Apply
the handbrake and switch off the ignition

4

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the car on level ground.
4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.
4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up
indicates a leak, which should be investigated
immediately.

For the check to be
accurate, the steering must
not be turned once the
engine has been stopped.

The fluid level is visible through the
translucent material of the reservoir, and
should be between the maximum (A) and

minimum (B) level lines marked on the side of
the reservoir.

1

If topping-up is necessary, and before
removing the cap, wipe the area so that
dirt does not enter the reservoir. Unscrew

the cap, allowing the fluid to drain from the
bottom of the cap as it is removed.

2

Top-up to the “MAX” mark, using the
specified type of fluid. Take great care
not to allow dirt to enter the reservoir,

and do not overfill the reservoir. When the
level is correct, refit the cap.

3

0•14

Weekly Checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is
completely effective, you may have the
expense of replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,
and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the
whole car, the rear wheels could be out of
balance. Wheel balancing should be carried
out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the tread
depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The
band positions are indicated by a triangular
mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be

monitored with a simple, inexpensive device
known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

2

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

3

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly Checks

0•15

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades;
if they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is

smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of
vision, wiper blades should be renewed
annually, as a matter of course. To remove a
front wiper blade, first prise off the securing
clips, and disconnect the washer tube from
the arm.

1

Pull the arm fully away from the glass
until it locks. Swivel the blade through
90°, then pull up the blade securing clip,

and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked
end.

2

On Estate models, to remove a tailgate
wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from
the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade

through 90°, then press the locking tab, and
slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

3

Screenwash additives not only keep the
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also
prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need
it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the
screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account
use coolant antifreeze in the washer system
- this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Screen washer fluid level

On Estate models, the tailgate washer
fluid reservoir is located behind a hinged
cover on the right-hand side of the

luggage compartment.

2

The windscreen/headlight washer fluid
reservoir is located in the scuttle at the
rear right-hand corner of the engine

compartment.

1

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a
screenwash additive should be added in
the quantities recommended on the

bottle.

3

0•16

Weekly Checks

Bulbs and fuses

4 Check all external lights and the horn.
Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chap-
ter 12 for details if any of the circuits are
found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall or
garage door and operate the

lights. The reflected light should show
if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or
headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be replaced.

Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop-
lights have failed, it is possible that the switch
has failed (see Chapter 9).

If more than one indicator light or tail light
has failed it is likely that either a fuse has
blown or that there is a fault in the circuit

(see Chapter 12). The fuses are located
behind a panel on the bottom of the driver’s
side lower facia panel.

2

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out
and fit a new fuse of the correct rating
(see wiring diagrams in Chapter 12). If the

fuse blows again, it is important that you find
out why - a complete checking procedure is
given in Chapter 12.

3

1

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
"Safety first" at the start of this manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered
with a zinc-based primer, then painted.
4 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A.
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. The
exterior of the battery should be

inspected periodically for damage such as a
cracked case or cover.

1

Check the tightness of the battery cable
clamps (A) to ensure good electrical
connections. You should not be able to

move them. Also check each cable (B) for
cracks and frayed conductors.

2

Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small

wire brush, then refit them. Tools for cleaning
the battery post and terminals are available.

3

Note that the battery negative terminal
stud can be removed for cleaning or

renewal. Unscrew the lead clamp, then pull off
the plastic insulator, and lever off the stud and
cover.

4