Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual — part 24

subframe bolts may be covered by plastic
plugs on certain models. On some models, it
may also prove necessary to unbolt the
steering gear from the subframe.
7 If the inner metal clamps on the anti-roll bar
are to be removed, mark their positions so
that they can be refitted in their original
positions.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.

a) Ensure that all marks on the anti-roll bar

and the clamps are aligned.

b) Do not fully tighten the anti-roll bar clamp

bolts until the car is resting on its wheels.

c) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
d) On completion, have the anti-roll bar

adjustment checked by a Peugeot dealer
at the earliest opportunity.

Drop link

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once.)
9 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheels.
10 Remove the bolt securing the drop link to
the lower arm.
11 Unscrew the bolt securing the drop link to
the end of the anti-roll bar, and withdraw the

drop link. If necessary, counterhold the end of
the drop link using a suitable Allen key or
hexagon bit.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the fixings to the specified torque.

9

Front suspension subframe -
removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2 Remove the suspension lower arms as
described in Section 6.
3 Remove the steering gear (see Section 19).
4 Remove the rear engine mounting as
described in Chapter 2.
5 Where applicable, release the clip securing the
clutch cable to the subframe (see illustration).
6 Where applicable, remove the screws
and/or clips securing the underbody shields
and wheel arch liners to the subframe (see
illustration)
.
7 Work around the subframe, and release any
pipes, hoses and wiring from the clips and
brackets on the subframe. Note that it may be

necessary to disconnect certain components
on some models. Make a note of the routing
of all pipes, hoses and wiring to ensure
correct refitting.
8 Support the subframe using a trolley jack
and interposed block of wood. Make sure that
the jack is positioned to adequately support
the subframe without danger of the assembly
falling off the jack.
9 Unscrew the four subframe mounting bolts,
and carefully lower the subframe from under
the vehicle (see illustration). Note that the
subframe rear mounting bolts may be covered
by plastic plugs on certain models.

Refitting

10 From approximately November 1988,
revised subframe rear mounting bolts were
introduced. The later bolts incorporate a
captive washer in place of the Bellville washer
fitted to earlier bolts. If the earlier Bellville
washers are found to be cracked, the later
bolts with captive washers should be fitted. It
is advisable to take the opportunity to fit the
later type of bolts as a matter of course, to
avoid possible problems in the future.
11 From approximately mid-1992, the
subframe rear mountings were modified. The
rear mounting bolts were increased in size
from M12 to M14, and torque wrench setting
was changed accordingly.
12 Subframes with M14 bolts can be
identified from the 6.0 mm holes located
behind the rear mountings (see illustration).
13 Body shells with fixings provided for the
M14 bolts can be identified from the two

10•8 Suspension and steering

8.5 Unscrew the anti-roll bar

clamp bolts (A). There is no need to

remove the metal clamp (B)

9.6 Remove the (arrowed) screws

securing the underbody shields

to the subframe

9.12 Modified front subframe components

9.9 Subframe rear mounting bolt

(arrowed)

9.5 Release the clip (arrowed) securing

the clutch cable to the subframe

A 6.0 mm diameter holes B Body shell stiffeners

stiffeners located under the floor (see
illustration 9.12).
14
A few vehicles were fitted with the earlier
body shells (with M12 bolt holes and no
stiffeners), and the later subframe (with M14
bolt holes and 6.0 mm identification holes).
On these models, the subframe is secured
with special M12 shouldered bolts.
15 If either the subframe or the body shell are
renewed, carry out the action given in the
table below, according to the type of
components fitted. Use only the specified
parts, available from a Peugeot dealer.
16 Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.

a) Clean the threads of the subframe

mounting bolts, and apply thread-locking
compound before refitting.

b) Refit the rear engine mounting with

reference to Chapter 2.

c) Refit the steering gear (see Section 19).
d) Refit the lower arms with reference to

Section 6.

e) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.

10 Rear hub assembly -

removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: Do not remove the hub assembly unless
it is absolutely necessary. A puller will be

required to draw the hub assembly off the
stub axle, and the hub bearing will almost
certainly be damaged by the removal
procedure. A new oil seal support cup, and a
new hub nut and hub cap will be required on
refitting.
1 On models with rear disc brakes, remove
the brake disc as described in Chapter 9.
2 On models with rear drum brakes, remove
the brake drum as described in Chapter 9. If
desired, to improve access for hub removal,
also remove the brake shoes.
3 Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel
sensor as described in Chapter 9. Note that
there is no need to disconnect the wiring
connector, but move the sensor to one side,
clear of the working area.
4 Using a hammer and a large flat-bladed
screwdriver, carefully tap and prise the cap
out of the centre of the hub. Discard the cap -

Suspension and steering 10•9

10.6a Using a puller to draw the rear hub

assembly from the stub axle

10.6c . . . and the oil seal support cup

10.6b Removing the inner bearing race . . .

10.4b . . . then tap up the staking on the

hub nut

10.4a Tap the cap from the centre

of the hub . . .

10

Front subframe parts compatibility table - see Section 9

New parts fitted

Parts not renewed

Action to be taken

Bolt dia.

Body shell with

Subframe with

Discard M14 cage

M14 subframe fixings

M12 mounting bolt holes

nuts fitted to body shell
(accessible from inside
body shell), and fit
M12 cage nuts

M12

Subframe with

Body shell with

Discard the subframe

M14 mounting bolt holes

M12 subframe fixings

rear mounting bolts and fit
special M12 shouldered bolts

M12

Subframe with
M14 mounting bolt holes,
and body shell with

None

Fit M14 bolts with

M14 subframe fixings

plastic protectors

M14

a new one must be used on refitting. Using a
hammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up the
staking securing the hub retaining nut to the
groove in the stub axle (see illustrations).
5 Using a socket and long bar, slacken and
remove the rear hub nut, and withdraw the
thrustwasher. Discard the hub nut - a new nut
must used on refitting.
6 Using a puller, draw the hub assembly off
the stub axle, along with the outer bearing
race. With the hub removed, use the puller to
draw the inner bearing race off the stub axle,
then remove the oil seal support cup, noting
which way around it is fitted (see
illustrations)
.
7 Refit the races to the hub bearing, and
check the hub bearing for signs of roughness.
It is recommended that the bearing should be
renewed as a matter of course, as it is likely to
have been damaged during removal. This
means that the complete hub assembly must
be renewed, since it is not possible to obtain
the bearing separately.
8 With the hub removed, examine the stub
axle shaft for signs of wear or damage. The
stub axle is integral with the trailing arms, and
if damaged, the complete assembly must be
renewed.

Refitting

9 Lubricate the stub axle shaft with clean
engine oil, then slide on the new oil seal
support cup, ensuring it is fitted the correct
way round.
10 Fit the new bearing inner race, and tap it
fully onto the stub axle using a hammer and a
tubular drift which bears only on the flat inside
edge of the race (see Tool Tip overleaf).

11 Ensure that the bearing is packed with
grease, then slide the hub assembly onto the
stub axle. Fit the new outer bearing race, and
tap it into position using a tubular drift until the
hub nut can be fitted to finally draw the hub
into position (see illustrations).
12 Fit the thrustwasher and new hub nut, and
tighten the hub nut to the specified torque.
Stake the nut firmly into the groove on the
stub axle to secure it in position, then tap the
new hub cap into place in the centre of the
hub (see illustrations).
13 Refit the rear brake disc, or the brake
drum (and shoes, where applicable), as
described in Chapter 9.

11 Rear hub bearing - renewal

It is not possible to renew the rear hub

bearing separately. If the bearing is worn, the
complete rear hub assembly must be
renewed. Refer to Section 10 for hub removal
and refitting procedures.

12 Rear suspension

components - general

1 Although it is possible to remove the rear
suspension torsion bars, trailing arms and

anti-roll bar independently of the complete
rear axle assembly, it is essential to have
special tools available to complete the work
successfully (see illustration).
2 Due to the complexity of the tasks, and the
requirement for special tools to accurately set
the suspension geometry on refitting, the
removal and refitting of individual rear
suspension components is considered to be
beyond the scope of DIY work, and should be
entrusted to a Peugeot dealer.
3 Procedures for removal and refitting of the
rear shock absorbers, and the complete rear
suspension assembly are given in Sections 13
and 14 respectively.

13 Rear shock absorber -

removal, testing and refitting

3

Removal

Note: New shock absorber mounting nuts
must be used on refitting.
1 Drive the rear of the vehicle onto ramps,
then apply the handbrake and chock the front
wheels. Do not support the vehicle with the
trailing arms hanging unsupported.
2 Where applicable, remove the rear body
undershield.
3 Counterhold the bolts, and unscrew the

10•10 Suspension and steering

10.11b . . . followed by the

outer bearing race . . .

10.12c . . . stake the hub nut firmly into the

stub axle groove

10.12b Using a hammer and punch . . .

10.12a . . . and the thrustwasher

10.11a Fit the hub assembly . . .

Using a socket and the old hub nut to
fit the bearing inner race

1 Right-hand torsion bar
2 End of left-hand

torsion bar

3 Anti-roll bar
4 Shock absorber
5 Tubular crossmember

12.1 Rear suspension components

shock absorber upper and lower securing
nuts. Recover the washers (see illustration).
4 Tap the bolts from the mountings to free the
shock absorber, then withdraw the unit from
under the vehicle.

Testing

5 Examine the shock absorber for signs of
fluid leakage or damage. Test the operation of
the shock absorber, while holding it in an
upright position, by moving the piston through
a full stroke and then through short strokes of
50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance
felt should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage, renewal is
necessary.
6 Also check the rubber mounting bushes for
damage and deterioration. New bushes can
be fitted using a long bolt, nut and spacers to
draw the bush into position. Lubricate the new
bush with soapy water to aid fitting.
7 Inspect the shanks of the mounting bolts
for signs of wear or damage, and renew as
necessary.

Refitting

8 Prior to refitting the shock absorber, mount
it upright in the vice, and operate it fully
through several strokes in order to prime it.
Apply a smear of multi-purpose grease to
both the shock absorber mounting bolts.
9 Manoeuvre the shock absorber into
position, and insert its mounting bolts (with
washers in place). Note that the bolts fit from
the inside of the vehicle, ie the nuts fit on the
roadwheel side of the shock absorber.
10 Fit the washers and new nuts to the
mounting bolts, but do not tighten the fixings
at this stage.
11 Measure the distance between the shock
absorber bolt centres, and load the vehicle (by
adding weight to the luggage compartment)
until a distance of 328.0 mm is obtained
between the bolt centres. Tighten the shock
absorber mounting nuts and bolts to the
specified torque.
12 Drive the vehicle off the ramps.

14 Rear axle assembly -

removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: Before carrying out this procedure, it is
advisable to run the fuel tank as near empty as
possible to minimise the amount of fuel which
has to be drained from the tank.
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support securely on
axle stands, until the trailing arms are at
maximum extension, with the roadwheels still
resting on the ground (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”
).
2 Where applicable, remove the rear
underbody shield.
3 Remove the rear and intermediate exhaust
sections as described in Chapter 4.
4 Empty the fuel tank by either disconnecting
the filler pipe and draining, or by siphoning the
fuel out through the filler neck. In either case,
collect the fuel in a container which can be
sealed.
5 Disconnect the fuel filler pipe from the tank
(If not already done). Plug the open ends of
the tank and the hose to prevent dirt ingress.
6 Remove the rear exhaust heat shield from
the underbody.
7 Disconnect the handbrake cables from the
adjuster mechanism under the rear
underbody, with reference to Chapter 9.
8 Release the handbrake cables from any
clips and brackets, and move them clear of
the suspension components to facilitate
removal.
9 Loosen the fuel tank support strap bolts as
far as possible without removing them, and
lower the fuel tank.
10 Disconnect the brake fluid pipes at the
unions on the rear suspension assembly, with
reference to Chapter 9. Plug the open ends of
the unions.
11 On models with a load-sensitive rear
brake pressure regulating valve, disconnect
the hydraulic pipes at the valve. Again, plug
the opens ends of the pipes and the valve.
12 Where applicable, remove the rear ABS
wheel sensors. Note that there is no need to

disconnect the wiring connectors, but unclip
the wiring harnesses from the rear suspension
components, and move the sensors to one
side, clear of the working area.
13 Place a trolley jack under the rear
suspension tubular crossmember to support
the suspension assembly.
14 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant pipes and wires have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
suspension assembly.
15 Using a long-reach splined adapter,
unscrew the suspension assembly rear
securing bolts, accessible through the holes
in the suspension assembly side members
(see illustration).
16 Working at the front of the suspension
assembly, unscrew the two bolts on each side
securing the front mountings to the
underbody

(see illustration).

17 Lower the trolley jack slightly, and pull the
suspension rearwards. If necessary, raise the
vehicle body in order for the suspension to
clear the fuel tank, then withdraw the
suspension assembly from under the vehicle.

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, bearing in mind the following
points.

a) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
b) Bleed the brake hydraulic system as

described in Chapter 9.

c) Adjust the handbrake mechanism as

described in Chapter 9.

d) On completion, have the rear ride height

checked by a Peugeot dealer.

15 Vehicle ride height - checking

5

Checking of the vehicle ride height requires

the use of Peugeot special tools to accurately
compress the suspension in a suspension
checking bay.

The operation should be entrusted to a

Peugeot dealer, as it not possible to carry out
checking accurately without the use of the
appropriate tools.

Suspension and steering 10•11

14.16 Unscrew the two bolts (arrowed) on

each side securing the suspension

mountings to the body

14.15 Using a long-reach splined adapter

to unscrew a suspension assembly

rear securing bolt

13.3 Rear shock absorber

upper mounting bolt (arrowed)

10

16 Steering wheel -

removal and refitting

2

Models without air bag

Removal

Note: A new securing nut and washer must be
used on refitting.
1 Position the front wheel in the straight-
ahead position.
2 Prise out the centre trim from the steering
wheel.
3 Make alignment marks between the end of
the steering column shaft and the steering
wheel boss.
4 Using a long-reach socket and extension
bar, unscrew the steering wheel securing nut
by a few turns (see illustration).
5 Using the palms of the hands, strike the
underside of the steering wheel firmly to
release the wheel from the column splines.
6 Remove the securing nut, and lift off the
steering wheel.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but align
the marks made before removal, fit a new
washer, and tighten the new securing nut to
the specified torque.

Models with air bag

a) Do not drop the steering wheel, or subject

it to impacts.

b) Do not attempt to dismantle the steering

wheel.

c) Do not attempt to fit a steering wheel

from another model of vehicle (even a
different model of Peugeot 405), as the air
bag control module is calibrated for each
particular model.

Removal

Note: A new securing nut and washer must be
used on refitting.
8 Remove the air bag unit (see Chapter 12).

9 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position, and engage the steering lock.
10 Make alignment marks between the end
of the steering column shaft and the steering
wheel boss.
11 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut
by several threads.
12 Using the palms of the hands, strike the
underside of the steering wheel firmly to
release the wheel from the column splines.
13 Separate the two halves of the air bag
control unit wiring connector.
14 Remove the steering wheel retaining nut,
and recover the washer.
15 Carefully withdraw the steering wheel,
feeding the wiring harness (connecting the
rotary connector to the air bag control unit)
through the wheel as it is withdrawn. Do not
disturb the air bag control unit wiring
connector (located in the steering wheel).

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.

a) Align the marks made before removal.
b) Fit a new washer, and tighten the new nut

to the specified torque.

c) Refit the air bag unit (see Chapter 12).

17 Steering column - removal,

inspection and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2 Where applicable, remove the air bag as
described in Chapter 12.
3 Remove the steering wheel (see Section 16).
4 Remove the steering column shrouds with
reference to Chapter 11.
5 Remove the steering column stalk switches
as described in Chapter 12.
6 On models up the 1992, release the
securing clips, and lower the fusebox panel
from the facia.
7 Working in the footwell, unclip the carpet
trim panel from under the facia for access to
the steering column pinch-bolt.
8 Working under the steering column,
disconnect the three ignition switch wiring
connectors (see illustration). Similarly, where
applicable disconnect the air bag wiring
harness connector.
9 Working in the driver’s footwell, make
alignment marks on the intermediate shaft
and the steering column shaft to aid refitting.
10 Unscrew the clamp bolt securing the
steering column shaft to the intermediate
shaft (see illustration).
11 Unscrew the two lower steering column
securing nuts (models up to 1992) or bolts
(models from 1993) (see illustration).
12 Unscrew the upper steering column
securing nuts, then withdraw the steering
column from the vehicle (see illustration).
13 To remove the intermediate shaft, with the
steering column removed, proceed as follows.

a) Working in the engine compartment,

unscrew the shaft-to-steering gear pinion
pinch-bolt.

b) Withdraw the shaft through the bulkhead

grommet into the vehicle interior.

10•12 Suspension and steering

16.4 Unscrewing the steering wheel nut

17.10 Unscrewing the steering column

shaft-to intermediate shaft clamp bolt

17.12 Steering column upper securing

nuts (arrowed) - models up to 1992

17.11 Lower steering column securing

nuts (arrowed) - models from 1993

17.8 Ignition switch wiring connectors

(arrowed) - models from 1993

Warning: Refer to the
precautions given in Chapter 12,
Section 24 before proceeding.
Note that the air bag control

module is integral with the steering wheel.
Additionally, note the following points.

Inspection

14 The steering column incorporates a
telescopic safety feature. In the event of a
front-end crash, the shaft collapses and
prevents the steering wheel injuring the driver.
Before refitting the steering column, examine
the column and mountings for signs of
damage and deformation, and renew as
necessary.
15 Check the steering column shaft for signs
of free play in the column bushes, and check
the universal joint for signs of damage or
roughness in the joint bearings. If any damage
or wear is found on the steering column
universal joint or shaft bushes, the column
must be renewed as an assembly.
16 Similarly, where applicable, examine the
intermediate shaft and renew if the universal
joint is worn.
17 If Nyloc-type nuts were used to secure the
steering column, these must be renewed as a
matter of course.

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
19 If the intermediate shaft has been
removed, make sure that the bulkhead
grommet is not dislodged on refitting.
20 Align the marks made on the intermediate
shaft and the steering column shaft before
removal.
21 On models fitted with an air bag, do not
tighten the column shaft pinch-bolt or refit the
trim panel until the procedure given in
paragraph 27 has been carried out.
22 Ensure that the column height adjuster
lever is in the released position when the
column securing nuts/bolts are refitted.
23 Renew any Nyloc nuts.
24 Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
25 Refit the steering wheel as described in
Section 16.
26 Where applicable, refit the air bag as
described in Chapter 12.
27 On models with an air bag, on completion,
carry out the following procedure.

a) Move the steering column to its fully

raised position, then check that the
clearance between the rear face of the
steering wheel and the front faces of the

steering column shrouds is 8.0 mm. If the
clearance is not as specified, proceed as
follows.

b) Loosen the steering column shaft-to-

intermediate shaft pinch-bolt, then slide
the steering shaft as necessary to give the
specified clearance between the steering
wheel and the shrouds.

c) Tighten the pinch-bolt, and refit the trim

panel.

18 Ignition switch/steering

column lock - removal and
refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the steering column shrouds as
described in Chapter 11.
3 Working under the steering column, locate
the three ignition switch wiring connectors,
and separate the two halves of each
connector. Unclip the connectors from the
bracket, and release the wiring harness from
any clips.
4 Insert the ignition key and turn it to align
with the small arrow on the lock rim.
5 Unscrew the lock securing screw (see
illustration)
.
6 Using a small screwdriver, depress the lock
retaining lug, whilst simultaneously pulling the
lock from the housing using the key (see
illustration)
.
7 Withdraw the lock assembly, feeding the
wiring up through the steering column tube.

8 To separate the ignition switch from the
lock, proceed as follows.

a) Remove the two securing screws from the

rear of the lock (see illustration).

b) Slide the rear section from the lock body

(see illustration).

c) Slide the ignition switch unit from the lock

body (see illustration).

Refitting

9 When refitting the ignition switch to the
lock, first ensure that the ignition key is
removed from the lock, and ensure that the
switch wiper is turned anti-clockwise as far as
possible. Check that the lugs on the wiper
engage with the cut-outs in the lock body.
10 Refit the lock using a reversal of the
removal procedure.

19 Steering gear assembly -

removal, overhaul and refitting

3

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Remove the roadwheels.
3 If desired, to improve access, remove the
wheel arch liners, referring to Chapter 11.

Suspension and steering 10•13

18.8a Remove the two lock

securing screws . . .

18.8c . . . and slide out the ignition switch

18.8b . . . slide the rear section from the

lock body . . .

18.6 Depress the lock retaining lug, whilst

pulling out the lock using the key

18.5 Unscrewing the lock securing screw

10

4 On models with power steering, drain the
hydraulic fluid as follows.

a) Remove the cap from the fluid reservoir.
b) Place a container under the high pressure

fluid pipe union on the steering gear, then
unscrew the union.

c) Allow the fluid to drain into the container.
d) Turn the steering from lock-to-lock

several times to completely drain the
system.

e) Disconnect the low pressure hose from

the steering gear.

5 Where applicable, unbolt the heat shield
from the steering gear.
6 On manual gearbox models, prise the cap
from the gear linkage pivot, then unscrew the
linkage pivot bolt. Move the gear linkage clear
of the steering gear, and tie it up out of the
way using wire or string.
7 Make alignment marks between the end of
the intermediate shaft and the steering gear
pinion, then unscrew the clamp bolt securing
the intermediate shaft universal joint to the
pinion.
8 Working on one side of the vehicle, slacken
and partially unscrew the track rod end nut
(unscrew the nut as far as the end of the
threads on the balljoint to prevent damage to
the threads as the joint is released), then
release the balljoint using a balljoint separator
tool (see illustration). Remove the nut.
9 Repeat the procedure on the remaining side
of the vehicle.
10 Unscrew the two bolts securing the
steering gear to the subframe. Recover the
washers, and spacers, taking careful note of
their positions to ensure correct refitting.
11 Rotate the steering gear around its
horizontal axis, so that the pinion is at the
bottom, then withdraw the assembly from
under the right-hand wheel arch.

Overhaul

12 Examine the steering gear assembly for
signs of wear or damage, and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length of
its travel, with no signs of roughness or
excessive free play between the steering gear
pinion and rack. It is possible to overhaul the
steering gear assembly housing components,
but this task should be entrusted to a Peugeot
dealer. The only components which can be
renewed easily by the home mechanic are the

steering gear gaiters, the track rod balljoints
and the track rods. Track rod, track rod
balljoint and steering gear gaiter renewal
procedures are covered in Sections 24, 23
and 20 respectively.
13 On models with power steering, inspect
all the steering gear fluid unions for signs of
leakage, and check that all union nuts are
securely tightened. Also examine the steering
gear hydraulic ram for signs of fluid leakage or
damage, and if necessary renew it.

Refitting

Note:

There have been a number of

modifications to the steering gear and the
subframe, which alter the dimension of the
steering gear-to-subframe mounting points.
Different thicknesses of spacer are fitted
between the rack and the subframe, and
under the mounting bolt heads. Due to the
many combinations of different components,
and the non-interchangeability of the different
components, if either the steering gear or
subframe are to be renewed, the advice of a
Peugeot dealer should be sought.
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.

a) Use new nuts when reconnecting the

track rod ends.

b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
c) On models with power steering, fill and

bleed the hydraulic system as described
in Section 21.

d) On completion, have the front wheel

alignment checked at the earliest
opportunity.

20 Steering gear

rubber gaiters - renewal

4

Manual steering gear

1 Remove the track rod balljoint as described
in Section 23.
2 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter
on the track rod, then release the retaining
clips and slide the gaiter off the steering gear
housing and track rod end.
3 Thoroughly clean the track rod and the
steering gear housing, using fine abrasive
paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or
sharp edges, which might damage the new
gaiter’s sealing lips on installation. Scrape off
all the grease from the old gaiter, and apply it
to the track rod inner balljoint. (This assumes
that grease has not been lost or contaminated
as a result of damage to the old gaiter. Use
fresh grease if in doubt.)
4 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track
rod end, and locate it on the steering gear
housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter
with the mark made on the track rod prior to
removal, then secure it in position with new
retaining clips.
5 Refit the track rod balljoint as described in
Section 23.

Power-assisted steering gear

6 On power-assisted steering gear assem-
blies, it is only possible to renew the gaiter
nearest the drive pinion, ie the right-hand
gaiter on right-hand-drive models, and the
left-hand gaiter on left-hand-drive models.
This can be renewed as described above in
paragraphs 1 to 5.
7 The task of renewing the opposite gaiter
should be entrusted to a Peugeot dealer. This
is necessary since it is not possible to pass
the gaiter over the steering rack stud to which
the hydraulic ram is fixed. Therefore, the
steering gear must be dismantled and the
rack removed from the housing to allow the
gaiter to be renewed.
8 The only task on this end of the assembly
which can be carried out by the home
mechanic is the renewal of the track rod inner
balljoint dust cover. The dust cover can be
renewed once the track rod balljoint has been
removed as described in Section 23. On
refitting, ensure that the dust cover is
correctly located on the track rod and steering
rack, then refit the balljoint.

21 Power steering system -

bleeding

2

1 This procedure will only be necessary when
any part of the hydraulic system has been
disconnected.
2 Referring to Chapter 1, remove the fluid
reservoir filler cap, and top-up with the
specified fluid to the maximum level mark.
3 With the engine stopped, slowly move the
steering from lock-to-lock several times to
purge out the trapped air, then top-up the
level in the fluid reservoir. Repeat this
procedure until the fluid level in the reservoir
does not drop any further.
4 Start the engine, then slowly move the
steering from lock-to-lock several times to
purge out any remaining air in the system.
Repeat this procedure until bubbles cease to
appear in the fluid reservoir.
5 If, when turning the steering, an abnormal
noise is heard from the fluid lines, it indicates
that there is still air in the system. Check this
by turning the wheels to the straight-ahead
position and switching off the engine. If the
fluid level in the reservoir rises, then air is
present in the system, and further bleeding is
necessary.
6 Once all traces of air have been removed
from the power steering hydraulic system,
turn the engine off and allow the system to
cool. Once cool, check that fluid level is up to
the maximum mark on the power steering
fluid reservoir, topping-up if necessary (refer
to “Weekly Checks” if necessary).

10•14 Suspension and steering

19.8 Using a balljoint separator tool to

disconnect the track rod end balljoint

22 Power steering pump -

removal and refitting

3

XU5 and XU9 (except XU9J4)
engine models

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the fluid from the hydraulic system as
follows.

a) Remove the cap from the fluid reservoir.
b) Place a container under the high pressure

fluid pipe union on the steering gear, then
unscrew the union.

c) Allow the fluid to drain into the container.
d) Turn the steering from lock-to-lock

several times to completely drain the
system.

3 Counterhold the pump spindle, and slacken
the pump pulley securing bolts (see
illustration)
.
4 Remove the pump drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1.
5 Remove the bolt securing the alternator to
the adjuster bracket, then swing the alternator
upwards, clear of the power steering pump.
6 Remove the securing bolts, and withdraw
the pump pulley.
7 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.
8 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
9 Unscrew the two front and two rear
securing bolts, and withdraw the pump from
the mounting brackets (see illustrations).
10 The pump cannot be overhauled, and if
faulty must be renewed.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.

a) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
b) Where applicable, use a new securing clip

when reconnecting the fluid hose to the
pump.

c) Refit and tension the drivebelt as

described in Chapter 1.

d) On completion, refill and bleed the

hydraulic system as described in
Section 21.

XU9J4 engine models

Removal

12 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
and 2.
13 Remove the pump drivebelt (Chapter 1).
14 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.
15 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
16 Unscrew the pump mounting bolts, and
withdraw the pump from the mounting
brackets. Recover any washers and spacers
from the bolts, noting their locations to ensure
correct refitting.
17 The pump cannot be overhauled, and if
faulty must be renewed.

Refitting

18 Refer to paragraph 11.

XU7 and XU10 engine models
without air conditioning

Removal

19 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
and 2.

20 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”
). Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel.
21 Remove the right-hand wheel arch liner,
with reference to Chapter 11 if necessary.
22 Remove the pump drivebelt (Chapter 1).
23 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.
24 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
25 Unscrew the two front pump mounting
bolts, which can be accessed through the
holes in the pump pulley (see illustration).
26 Unscrew the rear pump mounting bolt,
and withdraw the pump from the engine (see
illustration)
.

Refitting

27 Refer to paragraph 11.

XU7 and XU10 engine models
with air conditioning

Removal

28 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
and 2.
29 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.

Suspension and steering 10•15

22.9b . . . and remove the pump - XU5 and

XU9 engines (engine removed for clarity)

22.26 Pump rear mounting bolt (arrowed) -

XU7 and XU10 engines

without air conditioning

22.25 Unscrew the two front pump

mounting bolts (arrowed) - XU7 and

XU10 engines without air conditioning

22.9a Unscrew the securing bolts . . .

22.3 Counterhold the pump spindle and

slacken the pulley bolts

10

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Текст

Политика конфиденциальности