SAAB 9000. Manual — part 34

7A•4 Manual transmission

Refitting

8 Refit the gearchange lever and housing by
reversing the removal sequence, noting the
following:
a) Observe the correct torque for the gear

lever-to-selector rod bolt and the gear
lever housing-to-floorpan bolts.

b) Refit the electric window control panel

harness connectors using the notes made
during removal.

c) On completion, check that the gear lever

can be moved from neutral to all six gear

positions. Finally, road test the vehicle,
and check that all gears can be obtained
smoothly and precisely.

Selector rod
Removal

9 Refer to the previous sub-section, and
remove the gear lever and housing. Ensure
that the appropriate gear is selected before
removal. On post-1994 model year vehicles,
remove the plug from the alignment hole in the
top of the gearbox casing, and lock the
gearbox in 4th gear using a suitable
screwdriver, as described in Section 3.
10 From within the engine bay, at the point
where the selector rod passes through the
bulkhead, slacken the pinch-bolt collar to
detach the selector rod from the gearbox (refer

to illustration 3.8)

11 From inside the cabin, carefully withdraw

the selector rod through the bulkhead, taking
care to avoid damaging the rubber grommet in
the bulkhead.

Refitting

12 Lubricate the selector rod with silicone
grease, and push it through the grommet in

the bulkhead; do not tighten the pinch-bolt
collar at the gearbox at this stage.

13 Refit the gear lever and housing as

described earlier in this Section. Fit the
bushes, and bolt the gear lever to the selector
rod.
14 Lock the gear lever in 4th gear (post-1994
model year vehicles) or reverse gear (pre-1994
model year vehicles) by inserting a screwdriver

with a 4 mm shaft into the alignment hole on
the gear lever housing.
15 Tighten the pinch-bolt collar on the
selector rod at the gearbox, observing the
specified torque.
16 Remove the screwdriver from the housing,
and refit the gear lever gaiter.
17 Before moving the vehicle, check that the
gear lever can be moved from neutral to all six
gear positions. Finally, road test the vehicle,
and check that all gears can be obtained
smoothly and precisely.

Right-hand driveshaft oil seal

Pre-1994 models

1 On these models, the right-hand driveshaft
oil seals cannot easily be serviced without

dismantling the transmission.

Post-1994 models

Note: This sub-section describes the renewal

of the O-ring oil seal in the bearing casing only.
Renewal of the driveshaft oil seal is a more
complex task, requiring access to a hydraulic

press, and as such should be entrusted to a
Saab dealer.

2 Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the

handbrake, and chock the rear wheels.
Remove the wheel centre caps, and slacken

the wheel bolts.
3 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of
the vehicle, rest it securely on axle stands and
remove the roadwheels; refer to "Jacking,
towing and wheel changing" for guidance.
4 Refer Section 2 and drain the transmission
oil. Clean and refit the drain plug as described
in Section 2.
5 Working from Chapter 8, remove the
intermediate driveshaft and bearing assembly.

6 Remove the four retaining screws from the
driveshaft bearing housing (see illustration).
7 Thread a sliding hammer into the end of the
driveshaft, and use its percussion action to

5.6 Remove the four retaining screws

(arrowed) from the right-hand driveshaft

bearing housing

5.20 Slacken and withdraw the five

retaining screws (arrowed) from the left-

hand driveshaft bearing housing

draw the shaft and bearing housing out of the
differential casing.
8 Extract the O-ring seal from the bearing
housing, and discard it.
9 Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the
bearing housing and differential casing; take
precautions to prevent debris entering the
bearings of either assembly.
10 Lubricate the new O-ring seal with clean
oil, and carefully fit it over the driveshaft
bearing housing, ensuring that it is seated
squarely.
11 Lightly lubricate the inboard splines of the

driveshaft with multi-purpose grease. Offer up
the driveshaft and bearing housing to the
differential casing, and engage the splines of
the driveshaft with the differential pinion.
Using a light mallet, carefully tap the driveshaft
into the differential, until the bearing housing is
flush with the casing.
12 Ensure that the O-ring is seated squarely
and not distorted, then refit the four retaining
screws into the bearing housing, and tighten

them to the correct torque.

13 Refer to Chapter 8 and refit the
intermediate driveshaft and bearing assembly.
14 Refit the roadwheels, and lower the

vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
bolts to the correct torque, and refit the wheel
centre caps/trims.
15 Refer to Section 2 and refill the
transmission with oil of the correct grade.

Left-hand driveshaft oil seal

Note: This sub-section describes the renewal

of the O-ring oil seal in the bearing casing only.
Renewal of the driveshaft oil seal is a more
complex task, requiring access to a hydraulic

press, and as such should be entrusted to a

Saab dealer.

16 Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply

the handbrake, and chock the rear wheels.

Remove the wheel centre caps, and slacken

the wheel bolts.

17 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front

of the vehicle, rest it securely on axle stands
and remove the roadwheels; refer to "Jacking,
towing and wheel changing for guidance.
18 Refer to Section 2 and drain the
transmission oil. Clean and refit the drain plug
as described in Section 2.
19 Working from the relevant section of
Chapter 8, disconnect the left-hand driveshaft

from the transmission at the inboard universal
joint.

20 Place a container beneath the driveshaft
housing mating face, then slacken and
withdraw the five retaining screws (see
illustration).
21 Using two large-diameter worm-drive
hose clips, strap the shaft of a slide hammer to
the outside of universal joint cup. Thread a nut
onto the end of the slide hammer shaft to
prevent it sliding off, then use the percussion
action of the hammer to draw the universal
cup, and hence the driveshaft, out of the
differential housing.

Manual transmission 7A•5

22 As the driveshaft is withdrawn, recover the
plunger and spring from the inboard end. Note

their orientation and order of fitment, to aid

reassembly.
23 Recover the shims from the driveshaft
bearing housing, and then extract the O-ring.

Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the

bearing housing and differential casing; if a
cleaning solvent is used, take care to prevent
any entering the bearings of either assembly.
24 Refit the shims to the differential housing,

then lubricate the new O-ring seal with clean
engine oil, and carefully fit it over the
driveshaft bearing housing, ensuring that it is
seated squarely.
25 Lightly lubricate the inboard splines of the
driveshaft with multi-purpose grease. Offer up
the driveshaft and bearing housing to the
differential casing, and engage the splines of
the driveshaft with the differential pinion.

Using a light mallet, carefully tap the driveshaft
into the differential, until the bearing housing is

flush with the casing.
26 Ensure that the O-ring is seated squarely
and not distorted, then refit the five retaining
screws into the bearing housing, and tighten
them to the correct torque.
27 Refer to Chapter 8, and reconnect the
right-hand driveshaft at the universal joint.
28 Refit the roadwheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
bolts to the correct torque, and refit the wheel
centre caps/trims.
29 Refer to Section 2 and refill the
transmission with oil of the correct grade.

Input shaft oil seal

30 Referring to Section 8, remove the
transmission and rest it securely on a
worksurface.
31 Working from Chapter 6, remove the
clutch slave cylinder assembly.
32 Prise the seal from its housing in the slave
cylinder; use a blunt-ended instrument that will
not damage the mating surfaces of the
housing, and cause seal to fail when the
transmission is refitted.
33 Examine the input shaft sealing surface, to
identify any imperfections that may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place. Minor
burrs can be removed using fine abrasive
paper, but more serious wear or damage will
mean that the input shaft has to be renewed.
34 Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly
using a clean rag, then lightly lubricate the new
oil seal with clean engine oil, and press it
squarely into its housing.
35 Refit the clutch slave cylinder, referring to
Chapter 6 for guidance.
36 Refer to Section 8 and refit the
transmission.

Selector rod oil seal

37 Renewal of the selector rod oil seal can
only be carried out as part of a complete
transmission overhaul and as such, should be
entrusted to a Saab dealer.

Testing

1 Disconnect the battery negative cable, and
position it away from the terminal.

2 Unplug the wiring harness from the
reversing light switch at the connector. On
pre-1994 models, the switch is located on the
endplate of the transmission, adjacent to the
filler plug. On post-1994 models, the switch is
located on the rear of the transmission casing,
to the right of the differential casing (see
illustration).
3 Connect the probes of a continuity tester, or
a multi-meter set to the resistance function,
across the terminals of the reversing light
switch.
4 The switch contacts are normally open, so
with any gear other than reverse selected, the
tester/meter should indicate an open-circuit.
When reverse gear is then selected, the switch
contacts should close, causing the
tester/meter to indicate a short-circuit.

5 If the switch appears to be constantly open-
or short-circuit, or is intermittent in its
operation, it should be renewed.

Removal

6 If not already done, disconnect the battery
negative cable, and position it away from the
terminal.
7 Unplug the wiring harness from the

reversing light switch at the connector.

8 Using a suitable spanner, unscrew the
switch from the endplate, recovering any
washers that may be fitted; these must be
refitted, to ensure that the correct clearance
exists between the switch shaft and the
reverse gear shaft.

Refitting

9 Refit the switch by reversing the removal
procedure.

10 Note that on post-1994 model year

vehicles, the reversing light switch harness
connector must be fitted with a new sealing
grommet, whenever the connector is
disturbed.

11 Reconnect the battery negative cable.

General information

1 Two types of speedometer drive
mechanism have been fitted. Vehicles built
before 1987 have a conventional cable drive,
which consists of a helical-cut gear driven
directly from the differential by a dedicated
pinion gear. The gear drives the speedometer
remotely, by means of a cable with a rotating,

flexible inner shaft.

6.2 Reversing light switch location -

post-1994 models

2 An erratic or inconsistent speedometer
display, such as needle flickering or jumping,
that cannot be cured by renewal of the
speedometer drive cable, may be caused by
gear wear; refer to the following sub-section
for details of its removal and refitting.
3 Vehicles built after 1987 are fitted with an
electronic transducer in place of the drive
gear. This device measures the rotational
speed of the transmission final drive, and
converts the information into an electronic
signal, which is then sent to the speedometer
module in the instrument panel. The signal is
also used as an input by the engine
management system ECU (and where fitted,
by the cruise control ECU, the trip computer
and the traction control system ECU).

Mechanical speedometer drive

Removal

Caution: When removing the drive

gear from transmissions built
prior to serial number 310568, it is
possible for the gear to

accidentally drop down inside the
transmission as the locating ring is
removed; subsequent design changes
have eliminated the possibility of this
happening on later transmissions.

4 Trace the speedometer drive cable back to
the connection point on the right-hand side of
the differential housing, at the rear of the
transmission casing.
5 Unscrew the knurled nut by hand, and
withdraw the end of the drive cable. Where
fitted, recover the washer.
6 Wrap a length of thin copper wire around
the thread of the gear, and secure the free end
to a fixed point on the transmission; this will

prevent the gear dropping down inside the

transmission casing when the locating ring is

removed.
7 Prise out the locating ring using a thin, flat-
bladed instrument such as a watchmaker's
screwdriver.

Caution: Do not allow the gear to
fall into the transmission casing.

7A•6 Manual transmission

8 Pull the gear out of its seat, then extract and
discard the 0-ring seal.
9 Clean the gear thoroughly, and examine the
teeth for signs of wear or damage. Renew the
component if necessary, but bear in mind that
the drive pinion inside the differential casing is
likely to be worn as well, and this can only be
renewed as part of a complete transmission
overhaul.

Refitting

10 Lubricate a new O-ring seal with clean oil,
and fit it into the groove in the gear body.
11 Fit the gear into its seat, using the length

of wire as before to prevent it from dropping
into the transmission. Rotate the gear to
ensure that the teeth engage with those on the
drive pinion inside the transmission.
12 Snap the locating ring into the groove in
the transmission housing, and remove the
anchoring piece of wire.
13 Push the drive cable into the socket at the

top of the gear, and screw on the knurled nut,
tightening it securely. Note: Where a washer
was fitted between the nut and the gear body,
ensure that it is fitted before the drive cable is
reconnected.

Electronic speedometer drive

Removal

14 Locate the speed transducer, which is on

the differential housing, at the rear of the
transmission case.

15 Unplug the wiring harness from the

transducer, at the connector.
16 Remove the transducer retaining screw,
and unscrew the unit from the transmission
casing (see illustration).

17 Recover and discard the O-ring seal.

Refitting

18 Refit the transducer by following the
removal procedure in reverse. Note: A new O-

ring seal must be used on refitting.

7.16 Remove the speedometer transducer

retaining screw (arrowed) - post-1994

models

Removal

Note: Refer to Chapter 2B for details on

removal of the engine and transmission as a
complete assembly.

1 Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
handbrake and chock the rear wheels.
Remove the wheel centre caps, and slacken

the wheel bolts.
2 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of
the vehicle, rest it securely on axle stands and
remove the roadwheels; refer to "Jacking,
towing and wheel changing" for guidance.
3 If the transmission is to be removed as a
complete assembly and then refitted without
dismantling, there is no need to drain the
transmission oil. If repairs or an overhaul are to
be carried out, refer to Section 2 of this
Chapter and drain the oil from the

transmission. Refit and tighten the drain plug
as described in Section 2.
4 Refer to Section 3, and set the gearchange

linkage (and the transmission, where
applicable) in a reference condition, to ensure
correct alignment of the linkage on refitting.

5 Referring to Chapter 5A, disconnect both
battery cables and then remove the battery.
6 Unbolt the battery tray from the side of the
engine bay, unplugging the ABS ECU
connector where applicable. Remove the
positive supply distribution block, but do not
disconnect the supply cables from it.

Pre-1994 models

7 Working from Chapter 4A, remove the fuel
filter from the bulkhead, then remove the air
cleaner.
8 Disconnect and plug the hoses from the
washer fluid reservoir, then remove the
retaining screws and remove it from the
engine bay.

9 Unplug the cable connector, then remove
the airflow meter, referring to Chapter 4A for
guidance.

Caution: The airflow meter is a
delicate component, handle it
with great care.

10 Unplug the LT connections from the
distributor (where applicable), referring to
Chapter SB for guidance.
11 With reference to Chapter 8, remove the
clip, and slide the intermediate driveshaft dust
cover away from the differential housing.

Post-1994 models

12 With reference to Chapter 4A, disconnect
the accelerator cable from the guide bracket
on the inlet manifold. Tie the cable back
against the bulkhead, away from the work
area.

All models

13 Where applicable, unplug the wiring

connector from the air temperature sensor at
the turbocharger delivery hose. Slacken the
hose clips and remove the bypass valve, then
disconnect the delivery hose from the

turbocharger and the throttle body.

14 Unplug the wiring harness from the
reversing light switch at the transmission; refer

to Section 6 of this Chapter for guidance.

15 Still working from Section 6, disconnect

the speedometer drive cable/transducer wiring
connector, as applicable.
16 Working from Chapter 6, seal off the
clutch hydraulic system by fitting a clamp to
the flexible section of the slave cylinder supply
hose. Place a container underneath the union
between the rigid and flexible clutch hoses, to
catch any spilt hydraulic fluid, then slacken
and separate the union. Unbolt the rigid hose

from the clamp at the top of the bellhousing.
Tie back the free end of the flexible supply

hose, away from the work area.
17 Remove the electrical earth strap from the

transmission casing.

18 At the gearchange selector rod, locate the
rubber coupling in the engine bay, between

the bulkhead and the transmission. Slacken

and withdraw the two bolts, and separate the
two halves of the coupling.
19 Working under the front valance, remove

the plastic undertray and brake cooling ducts,
referring to Chapter 11 for guidance.
20 Remove the liner from the left-hand inner
wheelarch, again referring to Chapter 11.
21 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the
pinch-bolt that secures the ball joint at the
suspension lower arm to the base of the left-
hand steering swivel member.
22 Still working from Chapter 10, unbolt the
front anti-roll bar from the left-hand clamp
bracket on the subframe, then unbolt the left-
hand anti-roll bar link from the suspension
lower arm.
23 Remove the nut and washers from the bolt

that secures the inner wing stay bar to the
subframe.
24 Referring to the relevant Sections of
Chapter 2B, release the transmission from the

mounting at the subframe by slackening and

withdrawing the through-bolt; recover the
dished washer, noting its orientation.
25 Position a lifting beam across the engine
bay, locating the support legs securely in the
sills at either side, in line with the strut top
mountings. Hook the jib onto the engine lifting
eyelet and raise it, so that the weight of the
engine is taken off the transmission mounting.
Most people won't have access to an engine
lifting beam, but it may be possible to hire one.

Alternatively, an engine hoist may be used to
support the engine, but when using this
method, bear in mind that if the vehicle is
lowered on its axle stands to adjust the
working height, for example, then the hoist will

have to be lowered accordingly, to avoid
straining the engine mountings.

26 With reference to Chapter 5A, remove the
starter motor from the engine block, unbolting
the inlet manifold stay bar at the same time.

Manual transmission 7A•7

27 To allow the transmission to be lowered
out of the engine bay, the left-hand section of
the front subframe must be partially unbolted
and lowered; the following paragraphs
describe this procedure (see illustration).
28 At the front crossmember underneath the
radiator, slacken the pivot link through-bolt,
then remove the two link retaining bolts (refer
to illustration 8.27).
29 At the front left-hand corner of the
subframe, remove the two retaining bolts (refer

to illustration 8.27).
30 Slacken the through-bolt at the pivot link

in the rear crossmember, below the steering
rack, then remove the two retaining bolts; one
of these bolts also retains the steering rack.
Note the orientation and order of assembly of
all washers removed (refer to illustration 8.27).

31 At the rear left-hand corner of the
subframe, remove the four retaining bolts that

pass through the mounting bracket for the
suspension lower arm rear bearing. Recover
the bearing plate beneath the mounting
bracket, noting its orientation (refer to
illustration 8.27). As the lower arm bearing is
released, tie the rear of the suspension arm to

the vacated bolt hole in the subframe, using a
cable-tie - this will prevent the front bearing
from being strained.
32 Support the subframe as the last retaining

bolt is removed, and allow it to pivot
downwards to the end of its travel. Withdraw

the front and rear pivot bolts, and remove the

left-hand side of the subframe from the

vehicle.
33 With reference to Chapter 8, separate the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission, at
the inboard universal joint.
34 Work around the circumference of the
bellhousing, and remove all but the uppermost
transmission retaining bolts. Unbolt the
flywheel cover plate from the lower edge of the
bellhousing.
35 Position a jack underneath the

transmission, and raise it to take the weight of
the unit. Check that nothing remains
connected to the transmission before
attempting to separate it from the engine.
36 Remove the last retaining bolt from the

bellhousing, and pull the transmission away
from the engine. This involves simultaneously

extracting the input shaft from the clutch
driven plate whilst disconnecting the
intermediate driveshaft from the differential - a
task which should only be attempted with the
help of an assistant. If difficulty is experienced,
refer to Chapter 8 and remove the

intermediate driveshaft and bearing bracket

from the engine as an assembly, before

progressing any further.

Warning: Maintain firm support

on the transmission, to ensure
that it remains steady on the jack
head..

37 When all the locating dowels are clear of
their mounting holes, lower the transmission
out of the engine bay using the jack.

Refitting

All models

38 Refit the transmission by reversing the
removal procedure, noting the following
points:

a) Apply a smear of high-melting point

grease to the transmission input shaft. Do
not apply an excessive amount, as there is
a possibility of the clutch driven plate
being contaminated.

b) When securing the transmission at its

mounting on the subframe, ensure that the
dished washer is fitted the correct way
around - convex side facing outwards,

with the tang seated in the slot at the top
of the mounting bracket.

c) Observe the specified torque wrench

settings (where applicable) when
tightening all nuts and bolts after refitting.

d) Bleed the clutch hydraulic system,

referring to Chapter 6 for reference.

e) On completion, if the transmission was

drained, refill with the specified type and
quantity of oil as described in Section 2.

8.27 To allow the transmission to be lowered out of

the engine bay, the left-hand section of the front

subframe must be partially unbolted and lowered

A Front pivot link through-bolt

B Front pivot link retaining bolts
C Front left-hand retaining bolts
D Rear pivot link through-bolt
E Rear pivot link retaining bolts
F Suspension arm rear bearing bracket bolts
G Suspension arm bearing plate