Chrysler Stratus Convertible. Manual — part 125
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
DESCRIPTION
Throughout
this
group,
references
to
the
DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehicle family identifi-
cation code are used when describing a procedure
that is unique to that vehicle. Refer to Introduction
Group of this manual for detailed information on
vehicle identification. If a procedure is common to all
vehicles covered in this manual, no reference will be
made to a vehicle family code.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: USE A OSHA APPROVED BREATHING
FILTER WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN
A
CONFINED
AREA.
PERSONAL
INJURY
CAN
RESULT.
AVOID
PROLONGED
SKIN
CONTACT
WITH
PETROLEUM OR ALCOHOL – BASED CLEANING
SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT STAND UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE
THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: When holes must be drilled or punched
in an inner body panel, verify depth of space to the
outer body panel, electrical wiring, or other compo-
nents. Damage to vehicle can result.
Do not weld exterior panels unless combustible
material on the interior of vehicle is removed from
the repair area. Fire or hazardous conditions, can
result.
Always have a fire extinguisher ready for use
when welding.
Disconnect the negative (-) cable clamp from the
battery when servicing electrical components that
are live when the ignition is OFF. Damage to electri-
cal system can result.
Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
painted surfaces. Damage to finish can result.
Do not use harsh alkaline based cleaning sol-
vents on painted or upholstered surfaces. Damage
to finish or color can result.
Do not hammer or pound on plastic trim panel
when servicing interior trim. Plastic panels can
break.
DaimlerChrysler Corporation uses many different
types of push-in fasteners to secure the interior and
exterior trim to the body. Most of these fasteners can
be reused to assemble the trim during various repair
procedures. At times, a push-in fastener cannot be
removed without damaging the fastener or the com-
ponent it is holding. If it is not possible to remove a
fastener without damaging a component or body, cut
or break the fastener and use a new one when
installing the component. Never pry or pound on a
plastic or pressed-board trim component. Using a
suitable fork-type prying device, pry the fastener
from the retaining hole behind the component being
removed. When installing, verify fastener alignment
with the retaining hole by hand. Push directly on or
over the fastener until it seats. Apply a low-force pull
to the panel to verify that it is secure.
When it is necessary to remove components to ser-
vice another, it should not be necessary to apply
excessive force or bend a component to remove it.
Before damaging a trim component, verify hidden
fasteners or captured edges holding the component in
place.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment.
Moving
sealing
surfaces
will
not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions.
Overcompensating
on
door
or
glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
JX
BODY
23 - 33
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
• If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
• If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
• If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simulate
this condition. This method can be used when the leak
occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or turns. If
the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the front of the
vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking, hoist the
back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left turns,
hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on
right turns, hoist the right side of the vehicle. For
hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0, Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance, General Information section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the leak
and water test to verify that the leak has stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehicle
in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened lug-
gage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage com-
partment. If light is visible through a normally sealed
location, water could enter through the opening.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and body
components are aligned and sealed. If component align-
ment or sealing is necessary, refer to the appropriate
section of this group for proper procedures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
23 - 34
BODY
JX
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
• Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
• Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
• Misaligned movable components.
• Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
• Weld burn through holes.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.
(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.
(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt
the
material
securing
the
components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
PLASTIC BODY PANEL REPAIR
DESCRIPTION OPERATION
Resin Transfer Molded (RTM) body panels are rein-
forced with a continuous fiberglass mesh. Epoxy
resin is injected into a gel-coated and fiberglass lined
mold to form a body panel. Sheet molded compound
(SMC) body panels are constructed with fiberglass
strands usually 1 inch or shorter, epoxy resin formed
into sheet stock and pressed in mold flowing material
to form a sheet molded compound (SMC) body panel.
RTM and SMC body panels can be repaired with
epoxy adhesive after market products. Refer to
instructions provided by the manufacturer of prod-
ucts being used to repair RTM or SMC. Daimler-
Chrysler Corporation recommends that a trained
automotive body technician perform body panel
repair procedures (Fig. 1).
SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING: EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED
WHEN SERVICING RTM AND SMC COMPONENTS.
PERSONAL INJURE CAN RESULT.
USE AN OSHA APPROVED BREATHING DEVICE
WHEN MIXING EPOXY, GRINDING RTM AND SMC,
AND SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CON-
FINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
AVOID
PROLONGED
SKIN
CONTACT
WITH
EPOXY RESIN, PETROLEUM, OR ALCOHOL BASED
SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE
THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
• When holes must be drilled or cut in body pan-
els, verify locations of internal body components and
electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can result.
• Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
undamaged painted surfaces around repair areas.
Damage to finish can result.
PANEL SECTIONING
If it is required to section a large panel for an SMC
or RTM repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the
panel with epoxy structural adhesive (rigid repair
adhesive) (Fig. 2). To bond two plastic panels
together, a reinforcement must overlap both panels.
The panels must be “V’d” at a 20 degree angle. The
area to be reinforced should be washed, then sanded.
Be sure to wipe off any excess soap and water when
finished. Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an
abrasive pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with
compressed air or wipe with a clean dry rag.
When bonding SMC or RTM panels, use a two-part
epoxy adhesive. Properly mix parts A and B, and
apply it to the panels being repaired. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
Fig. 1 Panel Repair
JX
BODY
23 - 35
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.
After the parts have been bonded and have had
time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the
final adhesive filler to the area being repaired.
Smooth the filler with a spatula, wooden tongue
depressor, or squeegee. For fine texturing, a small
amount of water can be applied to the filler surface
while smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as
necessary and, as a final step, cleanup can be done
withy soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry
cloth allowing time for the panel to dry before mov-
ing on with the repair.
PANEL REINFORCEMENT
Structural repair procedures for rigid panels such
as Sheet Molded compound (SMC) or Resin Transfer
Molded (RTM) with large cracks and holes will
require a reinforcement backing. Reinforcements can
be made with several applications of glass cloth sat-
urated with epoxy structural adhesive, semirigid or
flexible repair materials should be used for semirigid
or flexible part repairs (Fig. 3) and (Fig. 4). Open
meshed fiberglass dry wall tape can be used to form
a reinforcement. The dry wall tape allows the resin
to penetrate through and make a good bond between
the panel and the epoxy adhesive. Structurally, the
more dry wall tape used, the stronger the repair.
Another kind of repair that can be done to repair
large cracks and holes is to use a scrap piece of sim-
ilar plastic and bond with structural adhesive. The
reinforcement should cover the entire break and
should have a generous amount of overlap on either
side of the cracked or broken area.
When repairing plastic, the damaged area is first
“V’d” out, or beveled. Large bonding areas are desir-
able when repairing plastic because small repairs are
less likely to hold permanently. Beveling the area
around a crack at a 20 degree angle will increase the
bonding surface for a repair (Fig. 5). It is recom-
mended that sharp edges be avoided because the
joint may show through after the panel is refinished.
Fig. 2 Panel Sectioning
1 – EXISTING PANEL
2 – NEW PANEL
3 – PANEL ADHESIVE
4 – BONDING STRIP
Fig. 3 Softened Edges
1 – SOFTENED EDGES
2 – PANEL ADHESIVE
3 – BONDING STRIP
Fig. 4 Panel Reinforcement
1 – PANEL ADHESIVE
2 – REINFORCEMENT
Fig. 5 Beveling Angle – 20 Degree
23 - 36
BODY
JX
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
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