Ford Galaxy / Ford S-MAX. Manual — part 1083

visible in the top coat.

The sanding process consists of two stages. Coarse sanding levels out the surface of the
filler primer. Fine sanding ensures the necessary surface structure which allows the top coat
to adhere well and cover sanding marks.

Sand the filler using the eccentric sander and P400 - P500 used dry. Clean the sanded filler
finished surface using silicone remover.

The painted area is matted using a fine matting sponge, and then thoroughly cleaned.

Surface ready for paint

The surface which has been repaired and then prepared according to the manufacturer's
instructions is now ready for basic paint application.

Top coat application

It is important for a good paint result that the recommended process data is adhered to,
i.e. mixture proportions, layer thickness, viscosity, drying time etc.

First of all the work area is carefully masked ready for paint application. The correct
adhesive materials and techniques must be used so that no hard transitions and edges are
created during painting.

NOTE: The chapter "Tips and Tricks" gives in-depth information on masking work.

Thoroughly check the surface once more and rub-off with a dust-bonding cloth.

NOTE: Once more check the paint material and that the spray gun is correctly adjusted
before applying the paint.

Paint application

The base paint is applied in two or three steps. First of all only the repair area is painted
with the first paint application.

Flash off

Allow the paint application to flash off until the surface has a matt appearance. So that the
transition to the original paint is optimally created, the next paint application is applied to a
wider area.

After the base paint has dried for the specified time, the clear lacquer is applied. Next the
transitions to the original paintwork are treated with fade-out remover. This removes the
spray mist and forms an ideal paint surface.

Repair stages for repair painting

The required time and material data is divided into four painting levels for calculations
concerning repair painting. Proceed according to these divisions for every calculation.

Level 1 - Painting of new components

On new components, all inner surfaces, seams and edges which will no longer be seen after
assembly must be primed and pre-painted.

NOTE: The cathodic dip primer must not be sanded away. Cleaning with silicone remover
or light sanding of the primer is all that is required.

Job steps:

Wash off, prime and pre-paint inner surfaces, seams and edges which cannot be reached
at all or only partly after the component is installed.
Sand new component with P280 - P320 or a fine sanding pad.
Clean subsurface with silicone remover.
Carry out masking work (when painting an installed component).
Apply one spray run of filler, dry.
Sand the filler. P1200 wet or P500 dry.
Clean filler application with silicone remover.

Then the prepared surface can be painted with solid or 2-component paint.

If the new part has mild transport damage, this must be rectified beforehand.

To do so, add the following steps:

Grind out the scratch.
Finely sand the surrounding surfaces.
Use a steel cleaning agent to thoroughly clean and then rub dry.
Apply corrosion protection primer to the bare areas.

Level II - Top surface painting (color tone matching)

Complete bodywork surfaces which are to be painted without the need to apply stopper
belong to this group. In addition, surfaces with faults in the top coat surface which cannot
be removed by polishing.

The following faults are included:

Loss of gloss.

Sanding scores.
Heavy paint runs.
Large dust and dirt inclusions.

The scope of the work is as follows:

Sand the surface.
Sand out paint damage and faults.
Treatment of small areas which have been sanded through.
Masking work (when painting an installed component).
Apply top coat according to the painting process (one or several coat process).
Dry the top coat and perform finishing work.

Level III - Repair painting with stopper applied to up to 50% of the surface.

If in addition to painting, work with stopper application must be performed, then the repair
levels III or IV must be used.

In repair level III, apart from painting the complete bodywork surface, partial stopper work
is carried out on up to 50% of the surface to be painted. The necessary primer and filler
work are also included.

The following damage must be rectified in this level:

Slight panel unevenness.
Damage due to corrosion.
Dented body surfaces.
Weld locations.
Deep scores or scratches.

The scope of the work is as follows:

Fine sand pre-treated bodywork surfaces (e.g. lead-loaded areas).
Sand out existing damage.
Perform all necessary masking operations on the vehicle.
Apply primer.
Partial stopper application on up to 50% of the surface to be painted (two to a maximum
of three stopper applications).
Fill the repair area.
Apply stone chip protection (when present in production).
Apply top coat according to the painting process (one or several coat process).
Dry the top coat and perform finishing work.

Level IV - Repair painting with stopper applied to more than 50% of the surface.

In repair level IV, apart from painting the complete bodywork surface, partial stopper work
is carried out on more than 50% of the surface to be painted. The necessary primer and
filler work are also included.

The following damage must be rectified in this level:

Damage due to hail.
More extensive stone chip damage.
Extensively dented body panels.
Sectional repairs with large weld seams.
Surfaces with severe corrosion damage.

The scope of the work is different to level III because of the partial application of stopper to
more than 50% of the area to be painted. In addition, more extensive sanding work is
usually required.

Polish

In order to achieve faultless quality, it is sometimes necessary afterwards to polish a newly
painted surface.

Even after the most careful painting, it sometimes happens that dirt inclusions and paint
runs occur in work with top coat or clear lacquer. Before polishing, such paint faults must
be removed with the sanding cylinder ("Finiball") and hand sanding or eccentric sander in a
wet sanding process.

Sanding cylinder

The special sanding compound -1- (sanding bloom) for the sanding cylinder is self-adhering
and available in grades from P1000 to P2500.

P1000 - P1500 for pre-sanding of runs and large imperfections in the paint.
P1500 - P3000 for subsequent sanding of runs and sanding out of dust inclusions.

A small eccentric sander can be used for more extensive working areas. When doing so,
first of all put the eccentric sander in place and then switch it on, so that the danger of
sanding through on edge is reduced.

Finally polish the sanded area to a high gloss with suitable polish. To this end the various
manufacturers recommend materials and process techniques which are specially suited to
their products.

NOTE: The polishing is to be done in the same way as that used to remove swirl marks.

Polish

NOTE: Before using the nap sponge for the first time and after any long pauses in
working, dampen the nap sponge with polish.

Job steps:

Clean and degrease the area to be polished using silicone remover.
Apply the polish to the polishing disc and spread it.
Place the polishing machine down flat on the area to be polished and before switching it
on, gently distribute the polish over the underlying surface.
Polish out the location for 10 - 15 seconds with the edge, working with a criss-cross
motion.
Subsequently polish the location for about 10 seconds with the machine laid down flat.