Ford Festiva. Instruction — part 76

Fig. 2: Adjusting Tie Rod Sleeves (Top View)

ADJUSTMENTS

CAMBER

1. Camber is the tilting of the wheel, outward at either top or bottom, as viewed from front of vehicle. See

Fig. 3

.

2. When wheels tilts outward at the top (from centerline of vehicle), camber is positive. When wheels tilt inward at top, camber is negative.

Amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical.

Fig. 3: Determining Camber Angle

CASTER

1. Caster is tilting of front steering axis either forward or backward from vertical, as viewed from side of vehicle. See

Fig. 4

.

2. When axis is tilted backward from vertical, caster is positive. This creates a trailing action on front wheels. When axis is tilted forward,

caster is negative, causing a leading action on front wheels.

NOTE:

This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For model-specific information see appropriate articles where
available.

Fig. 4: Determining Caster Angle

TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT

Toe-in is the width measured at the rear of the tires subtracted by the width measured at the front of the tires at about spindle height. A
positive figure would indicate toe-in and a negative figure would indicate toe-out. If the distance between the front and rear of the tires is the
same, toe measurement would be zero. To adjust:

1) Measure toe-in with front wheels in straight ahead position and steering wheel centered. To adjust toe-in, loosen clamps and turn adjusting
sleeve or adjustable end on right and left tie rods. See

Fig. 2

and

Fig. 5

.

2) Turn equally and in opposite directions to maintain steering wheel in centered position. Face of tie rod end must be parallel with machined
surface of steering rod end to prevent binding.

3) When tightening clamps, make certain that clamp bolts are positioned so there will be no interference with other parts throughout the entire
travel of linkage.

Fig. 5: Wheel Toe-In (Dimension A Less Dimension B)

TOE-OUT ON TURNS

1. Toe-out on turns (turning radius) is a check for bent or damaged parts, and not a service adjustment. With caster, camber, and toe-in

properly adjusted, check toe-out with weight of vehicle on wheels.

2. Use a full floating turntable under each wheel, repeating test with each wheel positioned for right and left turns. Incorrect toe-out

generally indicates a bent steering arm. Replace arm, if necessary, and recheck wheel alignment.

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION

1. Steering axis inclination is a check for bent or damaged parts, and not a service adjustment. Vehicle must be level and camber should be

properly adjusted. See

Fig. 6

.

2. If camber cannot be brought within limits and steering axis inclination is correct, steering knuckle is bent. If camber and steering axis

inclination are both incorrect by approximately the same amount, the upper and lower control arms are bent.

Fig. 6: Checking Steering Axis Inclination

Copyright 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Article GUID: A00060716

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GENERAL INFORMATION

Instruction Transmission Trouble Shooting

* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *

INTRODUCTION

There are many times when the transmission is incorrectly blamed for shifting problems or noises that are actually caused by other reasons.
Shift difficulties are frequently caused by conditions outside of the transmission or transaxle. Typical conditions include: shift linkage, shift
cables, alignment of engine to transmission, worn engine mounts or clutch problems. Drive train noises may come from many sources such as
tires, road surfaces, wheel bearings, differentials, engine or exhaust system. Repairing or overhauling transmission will not cure these
problems.

No manufacturer makes a perfectly quiet transmission. Gear rollover noise is present in most constant mesh transmissions and will tend to
disappear when the clutch is disengaged or transmission is placed in gear. If clutch is properly adjusted, clutch release bearing noise will
disappear when release bearing is moved enough to slide release bearing away from pressure plate.

Trouble shooting can be helped by driving vehicle on a smooth level road to help eliminate tire and body noise. Note whether noise occurs on
acceleration, coasting, deceleration or steady driving conditions. Some problems may only occur when transmission is either hot or cold. Gear
lubricant that is too thick can cause hard shifting on cold mornings before engine is warm and vehicle has been driven.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE TROUBLE SHOOTING

NOTE:

This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For model-specific information see appropriate articles where
available.

NOTE:

This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For model-specific information see appropriate articles where
available.

Condition

Possible Cause

Noisy In Forward Gears

Low Gear Oil Level, Loose Bellhousing Bolts, Worn Bearings Or

Gears

Clunk On Deceleration (FWD Only)

Loose Engine Mounts, Worn Inboard CV Joints, Worn Differential

Pinion Shaft, Oversized Side Gear Hub Counterbore in Case

Gear Clash When Shifting Forward Gears

Clutch Out Of Alignment, Shift Linkage Damaged Or Out Of

Adjustment, Gears Or Synchronizers Damaged, Low Gear Oil

Level

Transmission Noisy When Moving (RWD Only); Quiet In Neutral
With Clutch Engaged

Worn Rear Output Shaft Bearing

Gear Rattle

Worn Bearings, Worn Gear Oil, Low Gear Oil, Worn Gears

Steady Ticking At Idle (Increases With RPM)

Broken Tooth On A Gear

Gear Clash When Shifting Forward Gears

Worn Or Broken Synchronizers, Faulty Clutch

Loud Whine In Reverse

Normal Condition

(1)

Noise When Stepping On Clutch

Faulty Release Bearing, Worn Pilot Bearing

Ticking Or Screeching As Clutch Is Engaged

Faulty Release Bearing, Uneven Pressure Plate Fingers

Click Or Snap When Clutch Is Engaged

Worn Clutch Fork, Worn Pivot Ball, Worn Or Broken Front

Bearing Retainer

Transmission Shifts Hard

Clutch Not Releasing, Incorrect Gear Oil, Shift Mechanism

Binding, Clutch Installed Backward

Will Not Shift Into One Gear, Shifts Into All Others

Bent Shift Fork, Worn Detent Balls

Locked Into Gear, Cannot Shift

Clutch Adjustment, Worn Detent Balls

Transmission Jumps Out Of Gear

Pilot Bearing Worn, Bent Shift Fork, Worn Gear Teeth Or Face,

Excessive Gear Train End Play, Worn Synchronizers, Missing

Detent Ball Spring, Shift Mechanism Worn Or Out Of Adjustment,

Engine Or Transmission Mount Bolts Loose, Transmission Not

Aligned

Shift Lever Rattle

Worn Detents Or Shift Lever, Worn Shift Fork, Worn

Synchronizer Sleeves

Shift Lever Hops Under Acceleration

Worn Engine Or Transmission Mounts

(1)

Most units use spur cut gears in Reverse and are naturally noisy.

Copyright 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Article GUID: A00010942