Ford Fiesta (2011 year). Manual — part 174

When sanding, produce smooth transitions from
the painted area to the bare metal.

Use an eccentric sander and P80 or P120 abrasive
sheets. Finish off sanding with P150 or P180. The
remaining adhering sanding dust must be
completely removed.

Cleaning, de-greasing

Use silicone remover to thoroughly clean the
surface in order to remove grease residues, sweat
from the hands and other contamination.

NOTE: Use a solvent test to establish whether the
old paint can be etched. Apply 2-component
thinners to the damaged area using a clean cloth
and rub lightly for about 1 minute. If the
subsurfaces can be etched away, special
pre-treatment is necessary.

See "Tips and Tricks"

Apply primer filler

Before applying stopper, apply primer to the
sanded and bare surface.

Allow the primer to dry and then lightly sand by
hand using P220 - P400 dry.

NOTE: Most stopper can be applied directly to bare
metal. But application of a primer filler provides
better corrosion protection.

NOTE: Avoid sanding through to the bare metal.
Points which are sanded through must be retreated
with primer filler.

Stopper application

Pre-sand the hardened stopper using an eccentric
sander and P80 dry, then final-sand using P120 -
P140 dry. Clean the sanded surface using silicone
remover.

Apply 2-component stopper to the filled surface.
The stopper compound must only be applied thinly.

NOTE: Use of a testing powder is recommended
so that the sanding process can be more easily
checked.

Apply filler

Filler can now be applied to the dried repair area.
Choose the correctly toned filler according to the
manufacturer's instructions.

NOTE: Alternatively, filler with the correct tone can
be mixed with the aid of colour matching cards.

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Sand the filler.

The working area is expanded by applying new
masking. This makes it possible to even out the
transition from the damage area to the vehicle
paintwork.

NOTE: The primer filler must be carefully sanded.
Faults in the primer filler layer will be visible in the
top coat.

The sanding process consists of two stages.
Coarse sanding levels out the surface of the filler
primer. Fine sanding ensures the necessary
surface structure which allows the top coat to
adhere well and cover sanding marks.

Sand the filler using the eccentric sander and P400
- P500 used dry. Clean the sanded filler finished
surface using silicone remover.

The painted area is matted using a fine matting
sponge, and then thoroughly cleaned.

Surface ready for paint

The surface which has been repaired and then
prepared according to the manufacturer's
instructions is now ready for basic paint application.

Top coat application

It is important for a good paint result that the
recommended process data is adhered to, i.e.

mixture proportions, layer thickness, viscosity,
drying time etc.

First of all the work area is carefully masked ready
for paint application. The correct adhesive materials
and techniques must be used so that no hard
transitions and edges are created during painting.

NOTE: The chapter "Tips and Tricks" gives
in-depth information on masking work.

Thoroughly check the surface once more and
rub-off with a dust-bonding cloth.

NOTE: Once more check the paint material and
that the spray gun is correctly adjusted before
applying the paint.

Paint application

The base paint is applied in two or three steps.
First of all only the repair area is painted with the
first paint application.

Flash off

Allow the paint application to flash off until the
surface has a matt appearance. So that the
transition to the original paint is optimally created,
the next paint application is applied to a wider area.

After the base paint has dried for the specified time,
the clear lacquer is applied. Next the transitions to
the original paintwork are treated with fade-out

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remover. This removes the spray mist and forms
an ideal paint surface.

Repair stages for repair painting

The required time and material data is divided into
four painting levels for calculations concerning
repair painting. Proceed according to these
divisions for every calculation.

Level 1 - Painting of new components

On new components, all inner surfaces, seams
and edges which will no longer be seen after
assembly must be primed and pre-painted.

NOTE: The cathodic dip primer must not be sanded
away. Cleaning with silicone remover or light
sanding of the primer is all that is required.

Job steps:

• Wash off, prime and pre-paint inner surfaces,

seams and edges which cannot be reached at
all or only partly after the component is installed.

• Sand new component with P280 - P320 or a

fine sanding pad.

• Clean subsurface with silicone remover.

• Carry out masking work (when painting an

installed component).

• Apply one spray run of filler, dry.

• Sand the filler. P1200 wet or P500 dry.

• Clean filler application with silicone remover.

Then the prepared surface can be painted with
solid or 2-component paint.

If the new part has mild transport damage, this
must be rectified beforehand.

To do so, add the following steps:

• Grind out the scratch.

• Finely sand the surrounding surfaces.

• Use a steel cleaning agent to thoroughly clean

and then rub dry.

• Apply corrosion protection primer to the bare

areas.

Level II - Top surface painting (color tone matching)

Complete bodywork surfaces which are to be
painted without the need to apply stopper belong
to this group. In addition, surfaces with faults in the
top coat surface which cannot be removed by
polishing.

The following faults are included:

• Loss of gloss.

• Sanding scores.

• Heavy paint runs.

• Large dust and dirt inclusions.

The scope of the work is as follows:

• Sand the surface.

• Sand out paint damage and faults.

• Treatment of small areas which have been

sanded through.

• Masking work (when painting an installed

component).

• Apply top coat according to the painting process

(one or several coat process).

• Dry the top coat and perform finishing work.

Level III - Repair painting with stopper applied to up
to 50% of the surface.

If in addition to painting, work with stopper
application must be performed, then the repair
levels III or IV must be used.

In repair level III, apart from painting the complete
bodywork surface, partial stopper work is carried
out on up to 50% of the surface to be painted. The
necessary primer and filler work are also included.

The following damage must be rectified in this level:

• Slight panel unevenness.

• Damage due to corrosion.

• Dented body surfaces.

• Weld locations.

• Deep scores or scratches.

The scope of the work is as follows:

• Fine sand pre-treated bodywork surfaces (e.g.

lead-loaded areas).

• Sand out existing damage.

• Perform all necessary masking operations on

the vehicle.

• Apply primer.

• Partial stopper application on up to 50% of the

surface to be painted (two to a maximum of
three stopper applications).

• Fill the repair area.

• Apply stone chip protection (when present in

production).

• Apply top coat according to the painting process

(one or several coat process).

• Dry the top coat and perform finishing work.

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Level IV - Repair painting with stopper applied to
more than 50% of the surface.

In repair level IV, apart from painting the complete
bodywork surface, partial stopper work is carried
out on more than 50% of the surface to be painted.
The necessary primer and filler work are also
included.

The following damage must be rectified in this level:

• Damage due to hail.

• More extensive stone chip damage.

• Extensively dented body panels.

• Sectional repairs with large weld seams.

• Surfaces with severe corrosion damage.

The scope of the work is different to level III
because of the partial application of stopper to
more than 50% of the area to be painted. In
addition, more extensive sanding work is usually
required.

Polish

In order to achieve faultless quality, it is sometimes
necessary afterwards to polish a newly painted
surface.

Even after the most careful painting, it sometimes
happens that dirt inclusions and paint runs occur
in work with top coat or clear lacquer. Before
polishing, such paint faults must be removed with
the sanding cylinder ("Finiball") and hand sanding
or eccentric sander in a wet sanding process.

Sanding cylinder

The special sanding compound -1- (sanding bloom)
for the sanding cylinder is self-adhering and
available in grades from P1000 to P2500.

• P1000 - P1500 for pre-sanding of runs and large

imperfections in the paint.

• P1500 - P3000 for subsequent sanding of runs

and sanding out of dust inclusions.

A small eccentric sander can be used for more
extensive working areas. When doing so, first of
all put the eccentric sander in place and then switch
it on, so that the danger of sanding through on
edge is reduced.

Finally polish the sanded area to a high gloss with
suitable polish. To this end the various
manufacturers recommend materials and process
techniques which are specially suited to their
products.

NOTE: The polishing is to be done in the same
way as that used to remove swirl marks.

Polish

NOTE: Before using the nap sponge for the first
time and after any long pauses in working, dampen
the nap sponge with polish.

Job steps:

• Clean and degrease the area to be polished

using silicone remover.

• Apply the polish to the polishing disc and spread

it.

• Place the polishing machine down flat on the

area to be polished and before switching it on,
gently distribute the polish over the underlying
surface.

• Polish out the location for 10 - 15 seconds with

the edge, working with a criss-cross motion.

• Subsequently polish the location for about 10

seconds with the machine laid down flat.

• Wash off and clean the polished location using

the professional polishing cloth and then clean
the polished surface.

• It is absolutely vital to carry out a visual check

after finishing the polishing procedure. If any
swirl marks are not completely removed by the
first polishing procedure, then process must be
repeated.

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