Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction — part 12

bolt(s) securing the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket (where fitted) and ease it out of the
way.
7 Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A, then undo the retaining bolts, and
remove the clutch cover plate from the front
face of the bellhousing (see illustration).
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts and remove them. Support and lower
the sump pan, taking care not to spill any oil
remaining in it as it is removed. If the sump is
stuck to the base of the crankcase, prise it
free using a screwdriver, but take care not to
damage the sump flange face. If it is really
stuck in position, check first that all of the
bolts are removed, then cut around the sump
gasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing the
joint.
9 After the sump is removed, further oil will
almost certainly continue to drip down from
within the crankcase, some old newspapers
positioned underneath will soak up the
spillage whilst the sump is removed.
10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge,
using paraffin or a suitable engine cleaner
solution. Clean any traces of old gasket and
sealer from the mating faces of the sump and
the crankcase.

Refitting

11 Smear a suitable sealing compound onto
the junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal

carrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oil
pump housing at the front on each side (see
illustration).
12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove in
the rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case.
As an aid to correct sump alignment when
refitting it, screw ten M6 studs into the
cylinder block, in the positions circled in
illustration 13.14.
13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit the
sump into position, ensuring that the raised
spacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts into
the available holes, and finger-tighten them
only at this stage. Now remove the studs and
fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.
14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive,
numerical sequence to the specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration).
15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealing
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
16 Refit the clutch cover plate, the auxiliary
drivebelt lower cover, the front suspension
crossmember, the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket, and the starter motor with reference
to the relevant Sections and Chapters of this
instruction as applicable.
17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe as
described in Chapter 4E.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fill
the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.
Reconnect the battery negative lead.

14 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt, crankshaft sprocket and thrustwasher
(Sections 8 and 9), and the sump (Section 13).
4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts and remove
the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
5 Unbolt and withdraw the oil pump from the
front face of the engine. Clean the oil pump
for inspection. Refer to Section 15 for the
inspection procedures. The oil seal in the oil
pump housing should always be renewed
(Section 16).

Refitting

6 Before refitting the oil pump and the
associated fittings, clean off the respective
mating faces. A new oil pump gasket must be
obtained, as well as the seals and gaskets for
the other associated components to be
refitted.
7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionary
measures must be taken to avoid the
possibility of damaging the new oil seal as it is
engaged over the shoulder and onto its journal
on the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff key
from the groove in the crankshaft, then cut a
thin plastic guide which will furl over and
protrude beyond the shoulder of the seal
journal on the crankshaft (see illus-
tration 14.9b). This will allow the seal to ride
over the step, and avoid damaging the seal lip
as it is pushed into position on the crankshaft.
8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the old
pump is to be re-used after cleaning and
inspection, first prime the pump by squirting
clean engine oil into it, and simultaneously
rotating the drivegear a few times (see
illustration).

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•11

13.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence

A Crankshaft pulley end of engine
Circled numbers indicate locations of studs
for correct sump alignment (see text)

13.11 Sealing compound application

points prior to refitting the sump

A Crankcase-to-oil pump housing
B Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrier

13.7 Removing the clutch cover plate

14.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting

14.4 Removing the oil inlet pipe

2B

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

9 Align the pump gear flats with those on the
crankshaft, then fit the oil pump. Check that
the sump mating faces of the oil pump and
the base of the crankcase are flush each side,
then tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting. Remove the
protective guide (see illustrations).
10 Refit the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump,
using a new gasket and tighten to the
specified torque.
11 Slide the thrustwasher onto the front end
of the crankshaft, then insert the Woodruff key
into position in the groove in the crankshaft.
The key must be located with its flat edge
parallel with the line of the crankshaft, to
ensure that the crankshaft sprocket slides
fully into position as it is being refitted.
12 Refit the sump, crankshaft sprocket, the
timing belt, timing belt cover and drivebelt
pulley (as described in the appropriate earlier
Sections of this Chapter). Refit and adjust the
drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.
13 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery negative terminal.

15 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

3

Dismantling

1 The oil pump fitted is a low-friction rotor-
type, driven from the front end of the
crankshaft. Where a high-mileage engine is

being reconditioned, it is recommended that a
new oil pump is fitted.
2 To inspect the rotor assembly, first remove
the pump from the engine (Section 14), then
undo the retaining screws and remove the
cover plate (see illustration). Remove the O-
ring seal.

Inspection

3 Clean the rotors and the inside of the pump
housing, then visually inspect the various
components for signs of excessive wear and
scoring. Check the pump components for
wear using feeler gauges in the same manner
as that described in Part A of this Chapter,
Section 13. Refer to the Specifications at the
start of this Chapter for specific details.

Reassembly

4 When reassembling the pump, ensure that
the inner (driving) and outer (driven) rotors are
located with the corresponding indented
matchmarks facing the same way (see
illustration).

16 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

4

Front oil seal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the

front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt (Section 8) and crankshaft sprocket,
Woodruff key and thrustwasher (Section 9).
5 The oil seal is now accessible for removal
from the front face of the oil pump housing
(see illustration). To withdraw the seal, a
hooked tool will be required; if available, use
Ford special tool No 21-096. Take care not to
damage the oil pump housing during removal.
As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of
the seal in its housing.
6 Clean the oil pump housing and the
crankshaft stub, then lubricate the lips of the
new seal and the crankshaft front stub with
clean engine oil.
7 The oil seal should be drawn into position
using the Ford special tool No 21-093A.
Failing this, use a tube of suitable diameter,
with the crankshaft pulley bolt and washers.
Do not hammer the seal into position. To
protect the seal lips as it is fitted onto the
crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit
and furl it round the front of the crankshaft,
over the journal shoulder.
8 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the
special tool (or fabricated tool) and withdraw
the plastic protector. Check that the
crankshaft is still at the TDC position and refit
the Woodruff key, thrustwasher and sprocket.
Refit and tension the timing belt, then refit the
timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley as
described in the appropriate Sections earlier
in this Chapter.
9 Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
10 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery.

Rear oil seal

11 With the engine or transmission removed
from the vehicle for access, remove the clutch
as described in Chapter 6.
12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as
described in Section 18.
13 If available, use Ford tool No 21-151 or a
suitable clawed tool to extract the seal from

2B•12 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

16.5 Crankshaft front oil seal - seen from

below (arrowed)

15.4 Inner and outer rotor matchmarks

(arrowed)

15.2 Oil pump cover plate retaining

screws (arrowed)

14.9b With the oil pump refitted, remove

the protective guide (arrowed)

14.9a Refit the oil pump

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

its housing. If the seal housing is removed
from the rear face of the engine, the seal can
be removed as described in paragraph 18. As
it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and
take care not to damage the seal housing as
the seal is extracted.
14 Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft
rear flange face, and the flywheel/driveplate
mating surfaces.
15 One of two possible methods may be
used to insert the new oil seal, depending on
the tools available.
16 If Ford special service tool No 21-095 is
available, lubricate the seal lips of the seal and
its running face on the crankshaft with clean
engine oil. Position the seal (correctly
orientated) into the special tool, then draw the
seal into the housing using two
flywheel/driveplate securing bolts so that the
seal is against the stop.
17 If the correct Ford service tool is not
available, it will be necessary to remove the oil
seal carrier housing. To do this, first remove
the sump as described in Section 13, then
unscrew the seal housing retaining bolts and
remove the housing from the rear face of the
crankcase.
18 Drive the old seal from the housing by
carefully tapping it from its aperture using a
suitable punch as shown (see illustration). As
it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and
take care not to damage the seal housing as
the seal is extracted.
19 New gaskets will be required for the seal
housing and sump during reassembly. Clean
the mating faces of the seal housing, the
crankcase and sump. Insert the new seal
squarely into its housing. To avoid damaging
the seal or the housing, place a flat piece of
wood across the face of the seal, and
carefully tap or draw the seal into place. Do
not allow the seal to tilt in the housing as it is
being fitted.
20 Lubricate the running surface on the
crankshaft and the oil seal lip with clean
engine oil. Locate a new gasket onto the rear
face of the crankcase, and refit the oil seal
housing and seal. To avoid damaging the lips
of the seal as it is passed over the end of the
crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit
and furl it round the rear flange of the

crankshaft so that it protrudes, and press the
seal over it. With the seal in position, withdraw
the plastic protector. Centralise the seal on the
shaft, check that the housing-to-sump flange
faces are flush to the sump face on the base of
the crankcase, then insert and tighten the
housing retaining bolts to the specified torque.
21 Refit the sump with reference to Sec-
tion 13.
22 Refit the flywheel/driveplate as described
in Section 18.
23 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
24 Refit the engine or transmission, as
applicable.

17 Engine/transmission

mountings - renewal

2

1 The removal and refitting method for the
transmission bearer and mountings is as
described for HCS engines in Part A, Sec-
tion 15. On XR2i models, it will be necessary
to remove the front suspension crossmember
first (refer to Chapter 10).

2 The engine right-hand mounting is
significantly different to that fitted to HCS
engines, in that it is a two-piece bracket, and
its removal and refitting procedure is detailed
below.
3 First of all support the engine/transmission
assembly as described in Part A, Section 15,
then unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the two halves of the mounting
bracket assembly.
4 Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the engine bracket section to the
cylinder block (see illustration).
5 Unscrew and remove the mounting
retaining nut and washer from their location
near the suspension strut.
6 Unscrew and remove the mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch.
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Make sure when refitting
engine/transmission mountings, that any
washers and plates removed during the
dismantling process are refitted in their
original sequence. Do not fully tighten any
mounting bolts until they are all located. As
the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened,
check that the mounting rubbers do not twist.

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•13

17.4 Exploded view of the right-hand engine mounting

16.18 Rear oil seal removal

2B

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

18 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and
refitting

3

Removal

1 Access to the flywheel (instruction transmission)
or driveplate (automatic transmission) is gained
by first removing the transmission (Chapter 7A
or B). On manual transmission models, remove
the clutch (Chapter 6).
2 Unscrew and remove the six
flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts, and
carefully withdraw the flywheel/driveplate

from the rear face of the crankshaft. Take care
not to drop the flywheel, as it is heavy. Note
that the retaining bolts must be renewed when
refitting.

Inspection

3 The inspection procedures for the
flywheel/driveplate are the same as those
described for the HCS engine in Part A of this
Chapter, but note that the grinding procedures
do not apply to automatic transmission
models (the driveplate cannot be reground).

Refitting

4 Check that the mating faces of the

flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft are clean
before refitting.
5 Smear the new retaining bolt threads with
thread-locking compound. Fit the
flywheel/driveplate into position on the rear end
face of the crankshaft. Check that all of the bolt
holes in the flywheel/driveplate are in exact
alignment with the corresponding bolt holes in
the crankshaft, then insert the new bolts and
tighten them in a progressive sequence to the
specified torque wrench setting.
6 Refit the clutch (instruction transmission
models) as described in Chapter 6.
7 Refit the transmission (according to type) as
described in Chapter 7A or B.

2B•14 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake