Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction — part 48

8

Front suspension lower arm
- removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray (where
fitted), by turning its bayonet-type fasteners.
3 If lower arm mounting brackets are to be
removed on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in the
previous Section.
4 Unscrew and remove the lower arm
balljoint-to-spindle carrier pinch-bolt. Prise
the joint open using a large flat-bladed tool,
and detach the balljoint from the spindle
carrier. Take care not to damage the balljoint
seal during the separation procedures.
5 Where an anti-roll bar is fitted, undo the two
bolts and remove the clamp bracket.
6 To remove the lower arm from its mounting
bracket, undo the two bolts that pass through
the vertical bushes, remove the bolts and
pull the arm clear (see illustration). Note that
new bolts will be required for refitting.
7 The lower arm mounting brackets are each

retained by five bolts. To remove a mounting
bracket, undo the five bolts and lower it from
the vehicle.
8 If the balljoint and/or the inboard mounting
bushes are found to be in poor condition, the
complete suspension arm must be renewed.
The suspension arm must also be renewed if
it has suffered structural damage.

Refitting

9 Insert the lower arm into its mounting
bracket and fit the two bolts that pass through
the vertical bushes finger tight only at this
stage.
10 Fit the lower arm mounting bracket to the
vehicle, ensuring that the locating dowel is
correctly located in its recess. One of the five
bolts securing the mounting bracket has a
locating shoulder and a larger thread
diameter, and this should be fitted first to
ensure correct alignment of the mounting
bracket to the vehicle (see illustration). Refit
the other four bolts and tighten all five to the
specified torque.
11 Refit the anti-roll bar bracket and front
suspension crossmember, as applicable, in
accordance with the relevant Sections of this
Chapter.
12 Locate the lower suspension arm balljoint
into the spindle carrier assembly then fit and
tighten the pinch-bolt and nut to the specified
torque. Note that the bolt must locate to

the annular groove on the balljoint spindle.
13 Refit the roadwheel, remove the axle
stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
14 Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque.
15 Tighten the lower arm-to-lower arm
mounting bracket bolts, that pass through the
vertical bushes, by the torque-to-yield method
as follows. Note that the weight of the vehicle
must be on the roadwheels for these
procedures and new bolts must be used.
Tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting
given in the Specifications, then back off to
zero torque (Stage 2). Retighten to the
Stage 3 torque setting, then tighten further
through the angle specified for Stage 4, using
an angle-tightening gauge. It is vitally
important that these procedures are followed
and that the bolts are not subjected to further
rotation which could result in them failing. The
torque-to-yield method must be followed
every time that these bolts are disturbed.
16 Raise the front of the vehicle again and
support it securely on axle stands to refit the
one-piece undertray (where applicable).

9

Rear hub bearings -
renewal

3

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate rear roadwheel.
2 Check that the handbrake is released, then
remove the rubber blanking plug from the
inside face of the brake backplate, reach
through with a suitable screwdriver, and
release the automatic brake adjuster by
levering the catch from the pawl.
3 Prise free the outer grease cap from the
centre of the hub (see illustration). The cap
will be deformed during its removal, and will
need to be renewed when the hub is refitted.
4 Unscrew and remove the hub nut, but note
that the hub nut threads are “handed”
according to side - right-hand to right, left-
hand to left (see illustration). A left-hand
thread unscrews in a clockwise direction.
5 Withdraw the brake drum/hub from the
spindle of the rear stub axle (see illustration).

10•8 Suspension and steering

9.5 Slide off the wheel hub/brake drum

unit

9.4 Undoing the hub bearing retaining nut

9.3 Removing the outer grease cap from

the hub centre

8.10 Lower suspension arm and mounting

bracket arrangement

A Arm-to-mounting bracket bolts
B Special “shouldered” locating bolt
C Mounting bracket retaining bolts

8.6 Lower suspension arm arrangement in

its mounting bracket

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

6 Use a screwdriver or suitable lever to prise
free the grease retainer (seal) from the hub
bore, but take care not to damage the bore
surface (see illustration).
7 Remove the inner and outer bearing cones
from the bore of the hub (see illustration).
8 To remove the bearing cups from the hub,
drive them out using a suitable punch. Drive
each cup from its respective end by tapping it
alternately at diametrically-opposed points
(see illustration). Do not allow the cups to tilt
in the bore, or the surfaces may become
burred and prevent the new bearings from
seating correctly as they are fitted.
9 Clean the bore and spindle thoroughly
before reassembly.
10 To reassemble, tap the new bearing cups
into position in the hub, using a piece of
tubing slightly smaller in its outside diameter
than that of the bearing cup. Ensure that the
cups are squarely inserted and abut their
respective shoulders in the hub.
11 Pack the inner bearing cone with the
specified grease, and insert it into its cup in
the hub.
12 To fit the grease retainer (seal), first
lubricate its inner lip to ease installation, then
lightly tap the seal into position using a block
of wood. Ensure that the seal is correctly
orientated.
13 Pack the outer bearing cone with the
specified grease, and fit it into position in its
cup.
14 The brake drum/hub can now be refitted
to the axle spindle. Before fitting into position,
first check that the brake surface area in
the drum is free of grease and oil. Locate the
drum/hub into position, then fit the retaining
nut. Tighten it to the specified torque setting
whilst simultaneously rotating the assembly to
ensure that the bearings are correctly seated.
15 Carefully tap the new hub grease cap into
position in a progressive manner around its
outer edge until it is fully fitted.
16 Refit the rubber blanking plug to the brake
backplate, and firmly apply the footbrake a
few times to take up the brake adjustment.
Check that the rear brakes do not bind when
the brakes are released. Refit the roadwheel,
lower the vehicle and then tighten the
retaining nuts to the specified torque setting.

10 Rear strut (all models except

Courier) - removal and
refitting

3

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2 On ABS-equipped models, unscrew the
retaining nuts and detach the load-
apportioning valve connecting links from the
axle beam.
3 Support the relevant trailing arm of the axle
assembly and unscrew and remove the
securing bolt from the strut-to-axle mounting
(see illustration).
4 Prise free the protective cap from the top of
the strut mounting, located in the luggage
compartment (see illustration).
5 Unscrew and remove the two retaining nuts
to detach the strut from its upper mounting.
Do not unscrew the central upper mounting
bolt.
6 Lower the trailing arm slightly to allow the
lower suspension strut mounting to clear its
axle location, and withdraw the suspension
strut from the vehicle.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points:

a) With the suspension strut located to its

upper mounting, tighten the retaining nuts
to the specified torque.

b) When reconnecting the suspension strut

to the lower mounting, hand-tighten the
retaining bolt, then lower the vehicle so
that it is standing on its wheels before
fully tightening the bolt to its specified
torque.

11 Rear strut (all models except

Courier) - dismantling,
examination and reassembly

4

Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the suspension strut,
a suitable tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be

obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors which can be positively
secured to the spring coils are readily
available, and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the
strut without such a tool is likely to result
in damage or personal injury.

Dismantling

1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,
clean away all external dirt, then secure it in a
vice.
2 Fit the spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged) and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting.

Suspension and steering 10•9

9.8 Removing bearing cups

9.7 Removing a bearing cone from the hub

bore

9.6 Prise the grease retainer from the hub

bore

10.4 Suspension strut top-mount nuts (A),

and spring retaining through-bolt fixing (B)

10.3 Lower suspension strut-to-axle

mounting bolt

10

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

3 Unscrew and remove the upper mounting
through-bolt and nut.
4 Withdraw the upper mounting cup and the
spring seat.
5 The suspension strut and coil spring can now
be separated. If the coil spring or strut is to be
renewed, the original coil spring must be
released from the compressor. If it is to be re-
used, the coil spring can be left in compression.

Examination

6 With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine the mounting
components for wear, damage or deformation.
Renew any of the components as necessary.
7 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage or deterioration of
the mountings. Test the operation of the strut,
holding it in an upright position, by moving the
piston through a full stroke, and then through
short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases,
the resistance felt should be smooth and
continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or
uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear
or damage to the strut, renewal is necessary.

Reassembly

8 Reassembly is a reversal of the dismantling
procedure but note the following points:

a) When the spring is located over the

suspension strut, the spring seat, cup and
through-bolt fitted, tighten the retaining
bolt to the specified torque.

b) When reassembled, check that the upper

and lower spring tails are correctly
engaged with their spring seats before
removing the spring compressor.

12 Rear axle (all models except

Courier) -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the rear roadwheels.
2 Refer to Chapter 9 for details, and disconnect
the handbrake cable equaliser from the primary
cable. Remove the handbrake rear cable from
its adjuster and its fixed body locations.
3 Disconnect the rear brake flexible hydraulic
brake hoses from their rigid line connections.
Clamp the hoses before disconnecting them,
to minimise the fluid loss and air entry into the
hydraulic system (see Chapter 9 for details).
4 On ABS-equipped models, undo the
retaining nuts and detach the ABS load-
apportioning valve operating links from the
axle beam. Do not remove the load-
apportioning valve (see Chapter 9).
5 Locate suitable jacks or axle stands under
the axle beam to support its weight (not to lift
it), then unscrew the four mounting bracket
bolts each side.

6 Unscrew and remove the strut-to-axle
mounting bolt each side.
7 Check that all associated fittings are clear,
then lower the axle and remove it from under
the vehicle.
8 If the twist beam axle has been damaged, it
must be renewed. Refer to Chapter 9 for
details on removing the rear brakes from the
axle. To remove the front mounting/pivot
brackets from the axle, unscrew the pivot bolt.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following:

a) Reconnect the axle at the front floor

mountings first, and tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque.

b) Reconnect the axle to the suspension

struts, but do not fully retighten the securing
bolts until after the vehicle is lowered to the
ground and is standing on its wheels.

c) Ensure that all brake fluid line connections

are clean before reconnecting them. Refer
to the appropriate Sections in Chapter 9
for specific details on reconnecting the
brake lines, bleeding the brake hydraulic
system, and for reconnecting the
handbrake cable and its adjustment.

d) When the vehicle is lowered and is standing

on its wheels, tighten the suspension
fastenings to their specified torque settings.

13 Rear axle pivot bushes (all

models except Courier) -
renewal

3

Note: Two different types of pivot bushes
have been fitted during the course of Fiesta
production. It is understood that once stocks
of the early type are exhausted, only the latter
type will be supplied by Ford parts dealers. If
renewing pivot bushes on a pre-April 1990
model, and only the later type bushes are
available, fit the new bushes as described
from paragraph 15 onward.

Pre-April 1990 models

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

2 Position a suitable support (preferably
adjustable) under the axle twist beam so that
it is capable of carrying the weight of the axle
(not the weight of the vehicle).
3 On ABS-equipped models, undo the
retaining nuts and detach the ABS load-
apportioning valve operating links from the
axle beam. Do not remove the load-
apportioning valve (see Chapter 9).
4 Unscrew the nuts, withdraw the pivot bolts,
then lower the rear axle so that the bushes are
clear of their mounting brackets (see
illustration). Take care not to allow the brake
pipes to become distorted and stretched - if
necessary, disconnect the hydraulic lines (see
Chapter 9 for details).
5 Undo the four body mounting bracket bolts
and remove the brackets.
6 Using a soft-faced hammer and a suitable
punch or drift, drive the bushes from their
locations, taking care not to raise any burrs on
the trailing arm eyes.
7 To fit the new bushes, obtain a steel tube of
a diameter slightly less than that of the bush
location in the axle, various flat washers and a
long bolt and nut.
8 Place the new bush in position in its axle
location with the bush collar nearest to the
outer edge of the vehicle. The bush must be
installed with its voids positioned as shown
(see illustration). Using the steel tube,
washers, long bolt and nut, draw the bush
inwards towards the centre of the vehicle (see
illustration). Care should be taken to avoid
damage to the bush and to obtain correct

10•10 Suspension and steering

13.8b Fitting pivot bush with its collar

(arrowed) towards the outer edge of the

vehicle

13.8a Correct pivot bush positioning in

trailing arm

A Left-hand side B Right-hand side

13.4 Pivot bush bolt (A) and body

mounting bracket bolts (B)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

positioning of the voids. Install the bush on
the other side in the same way.
9 With the new bushes in position, refit the
body mounting brackets loosely to the trailing
arms - do not fully tighten the pivot bolts at
this stage. Final tightening is carried out with
the vehicle standing on its roadwheels.
10 Raise the axle assembly so that the
conical locating pegs on the body mounting
brackets engage in their body locations. Refit
the body mounting bracket bolts and tighten
to the specified torque.
11 On ABS equipped models, reconnect the
load-apportioning valve operating links to the
rear axle beam
12 If the flexible brake hoses were
disconnected during this operation, reconnect
them and bleed the brake hydraulic system
(see Chapter 9).
13 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
14 Fully tighten the bush pivot bolt nuts to
the specified torque.

April 1990 models onward

15 As mentioned in the note at the start of
this Section, all later models are fitted with
revised bushes which use 12 mm (thread size)
pivot bolts. If the later type bushes are to be
fitted to a pre-April 1990 model, two
corresponding bolts and nuts must be
obtained at the same time, and either the
body mounting brackets must be replaced by
the corresponding modified items, or the
holes in the original brackets must be opened
out (to 12.5 mm) to suit the new bolts.
16 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 1 to 4 above.
17 Using a steel tube of suitable diameter,
various flat washers and a long bolt and nut,
draw the bush out of its location in the axle
trailing arm.
18 Clean the bush eye in the trailing arm;
lubricate it, and the new bush, with a soapy
solution (washing-up liquid, for example) prior
to installation.
19 Locate the new bush in position, together
with the steel tube, washers, bolt and nut as
used for removal. Ensure that the bush flange
is positioned on the outside, then draw the
bush fully into position so that its lip is
engaged (see illustration).
20 Raise the axle to reposition the bush pin

bores in line with the bolt holes in the
mounting brackets, then insert the pivot bolts.
Screw the retaining nuts into position on the
pivot bolts, but do not fully tighten them at
this stage.
21 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 11 to 14 above.

14 Rear suspension anti-roll bar

(all models except Courier) -
removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2 Undo the front clamp bolt from each end of
the bar, then support the bar and undo the
rear bolt at each end; withdraw the bar (see
illustration).
3 Prise open the clamps to release the rubber
bushes, if required. Fit the new bushes using
soapy water as a lubricant.

Refitting

4 On refitting, offer up the bar and align first
the front clamp on each side, refitting the
bolts loosely.
5 Align and refit the rear clamp on each side;
again, tighten the bolts only loosely.

6 Lower the vehicle to the ground, rock it to
settle the suspension, then tighten the clamp
bolts to the specified torque settings.

15 Rear suspension

components (Courier
models) - general

Although it is possible to remove the rear

suspension torsion bars and stabiliser bar
independently of the complete rear axle
assembly, it is essential to have certain
special tools available to complete the work
successfully.

Due to the complexity of the tasks, and the

requirement for special tools to accurately set
the suspension geometry and vehicle ride
height on refitting, the removal and refitting of
individual rear suspension components is
considered to be beyond the scope of DIY
work and should be entrusted to a Ford
dealer.

Procedures for removal and refitting of the

rear shock absorbers, and the complete rear
suspension assembly are given in Sections 16
and 17 respectively.

16 Rear shock absorber

(Courier models) - removal,
examination and refitting

1

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2 Support the relevant trailing arm of the
suspension assembly and unscrew the upper
mounting bolt and nut, followed by the lower
bolt. Withdraw the shock absorber from under
the vehicle (see illustrations).

Examination

3 Examine the shock absorber body for signs
of fluid leakage or damage and check the

Suspension and steering 10•11

14.2 Rear suspension anti-roll bar

1 Rear suspension strut
2 Anti-roll bar
3 Inset showing (front) mounting clamp

13.19 Pivot bush renewal (April 1990

models onwards) - correct engagement of

bush lip on rear axle

A New bush, installed correctly
B New bush, installed incorrectly

16.2b . . . and lower mounting on Courier

models

16.2a Removing a shock absorber upper

mounting . . .

10

1595Ford Fiesta Remake