Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction — part 44

11 Brake pedal-to-servo cross-

link - removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Disconnect the cross link pushrod from its
brake pedal location by removing the retaining
clip on the brake pedal, noting the bush fitted
in the pedal.
3 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. The brake fluid should now be
removed from the reservoir.

4 Identify each brake pipe and its connection
to the master cylinder. Unscrew the fluid pipe
to master cylinder union nuts and disconnect
the pipes. On models equipped with anti-lock
brakes, disconnect the modulator return
hoses from the brake fluid reservoir, collecting
fluid spillage from the hoses in a suitable tray.
The modulator return hose unions should be
disconnected by first pushing the hose into
the reservoir, then retaining the collar against
the reservoir body whilst withdrawing the
hose. Note that the modulator return hoses
are colour coded - the left-hand modulator
has a black return hose and connector, and
should be fitted to the forward section of the
reservoir, whilst the right-hand modulator has
a grey return hose and connector, and should
be fitted to the rear section of the reservoir.
5 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
servo unit by carefully levering between the
hose connector and the servo housing collar
with a screwdriver.
6 Lift up the flap of sound insulation on the

bulkhead, in the passenger side footwell, to
expose the servo mounting bracket retaining
nuts, and remove them (see illustration).
7 Remove the four nuts securing the servo
unit to its mounting bracket assembly.
8 Pull the servo/master cylinder assembly
forward and remove the inner servo support
bracket.
9 Remove the spring clip and clevis pin
securing the servo actuating rod to the cross
link, then lift out the servo/master cylinder
assembly.
10 Remove the two nuts on the right-hand
side of the pedal box assembly to free the
cross link right-hand support bracket, then
withdraw the link from the vehicle (see
illustration).

Refitting

11 Refitting is the reverse procedure to
removal, ensuring that the brake pedal
pushrod grommet is seated correctly in the
bulkhead and that the pushrod itself locates
through the brake pedal before securing the
servo operating link support brackets. Ensure
correct location of the pushrod bush in the
brake pedal.
12 Bleed the complete brake hydraulic
system in accordance with Section 13 or 14
(as applicable).

12 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -

renewal

2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,
minimise hydraulic fluid loss by disconnecting
the wiring multi-plug from the fluid level
warning indicator in the master cylinder
reservoir filler cap, then remove the filler cap.
Note that the filler cap must not be inverted.
Place a piece of plastic film over the reservoir
and seal it with an elastic band. Alternatively,
flexible hoses can be sealed, if required, using
a proprietary brake hose clamp; metal brake

pipe unions can be plugged (if care is taken
not to allow dirt into the system) or capped
immediately they are disconnected. Place a
wad of rag under any union that is to be
disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid.
2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,
unscrew the brake pipe union nut before
removing the spring clip which secures the
hose to its mounting (see illustration). Where
the other end of the hose is connected
directly to the brake caliper, disconnect it by
unscrewing it from its tapped hole.
3 To unscrew the union nuts, it is preferable to
obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct size;
these are available from most large motor
accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting
open-ended spanner will be required, though if
the nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be
rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a case,
a self-locking wrench is often the only way to
unscrew a stubborn union, but it follows that
the pipe and the damaged nuts must be
renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union
and surrounding area before disconnecting it. If
disconnecting a component with more than
one union, make a careful note of the
connections before disturbing any of them.
4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, it can be
obtained, cut to length and with the union
nuts and end flares in place, from Ford
dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend it
to shape, following the line of the original,
before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, most
motor accessory shops can make up brake
pipes from kits, but this requires very careful
measurement of the original, to ensure that
the replacement is of the correct length. The
safest answer is usually to take the original to
the shop as a pattern.
5 Before refitting, blow through the new pipe
or hose with dry compressed air. Do not
overtighten the union nuts. It is not necessary
to exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint.
6 If flexible rubber hoses are renewed, ensure
that the pipes and hoses are correctly routed,
with no kinks or twists, and that they are
secured in the clips or brackets provided.
7 After fitting, bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 13 or 14 (as applicable),
wash off any spilt fluid, and check carefully for
fluid leaks.

Braking system 9•9

12.2 Prising out a spring retaining clip
from a rigid pipe/flexible hose support

bracket

11.10 Exploded view of brake pedal-to-

servo cross link and its retaining brackets

11.6 Servo mounting bracket retaining

nuts

A Inner section retaining nuts
B Outer section retaining nuts

9

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

An ideal way to remove fluid
from the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry
baster.

13 Hydraulic system - bleeding

(conventional braking system)

3

Note: For vehicles equipped with an anti-lock
braking system, refer to Section 14.

Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; wash off
immediately and thoroughly in
the case of skin contact, and

seek immediate medical advice if any fluid
is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain
types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable,
and may ignite when allowed into contact
with hot components; when servicing any
hydraulic system, it is safest to assume
that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take
precautions against the risk of fire as
though it is petrol that is being handled.
Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint
stripper, and will attack plastics; if any is
spilt, it should be washed off immediately,
using copious quantities of clean water.
Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbs
moisture from the air). The more moisture
is absorbed by the fluid, the lower its
boiling point becomes, leading to a
dangerous loss of braking under hard use.
Old fluid may be contaminated and unfit
for further use. When topping-up or
renewing the fluid, always use the
recommended type, and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed
container.
1 The correct operation of any hydraulic
system is only possible after removing all air
from the components and circuit; and this is
achieved by bleeding the system.
2 During the bleeding procedure, add only
clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the
recommended type; never re-use fluid that
has already been bled from the system.
Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before
starting work.
3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
being already in the system, the brake
components and circuit must be flushed
completely with uncontaminated, correct
fluid, and new seals should be fitted
throughout the system.
4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
system, or air has entered because of a leak,
ensure that the fault is cured before
proceeding further.
5 Park the vehicle on level ground, and apply
the handbrake. Switch off the engine, then
(where applicable) depress the brake pedal
several times to dissipate the vacuum from
the servo unit. Note: When bleeding the
system, the vehicle must maintain a level
attitude, ie not tilted in any manner, to ensure
that air is not trapped within the pressure
control valves. During certain operations in
this instruction, instructions are given to bleed the
brake hydraulic system with the front or the
rear of the vehicle raised. In such cases raise
the rest of the vehicle so that it maintains a

level attitude, but only if it is safe to do so. If it
is not possible to achieve this safely, complete
the remainder of the operation and bleed the
brake hydraulic system with the vehicle on its
wheels.
6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
unions tight and bleed screws closed.
Remove the dust caps (where applicable), and
clean any dirt from around the bleed screws.
7 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Top-up the reservoir with the
specified fluid to the “Maximum” level (see
“Weekly Checks”). Remember to maintain the
fluid level at least above the “Minimum” level
line throughout the procedure, otherwise
there is a risk of further air entering the
system.
8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-
yourself brake bleeding kits currently available
from motor accessory shops. It is
recommended that one of these kits is used
whenever possible, as they greatly simplify
the bleeding operation, and also reduce the
risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back
into the system. If such a kit is not available,
the basic (two-man) method must be used,
which is described in detail below.
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as
described previously, and follow the kit
manufacturer’s instructions, as the procedure
may vary slightly according to the type being
used; generally, they are as outlined below in
the relevant sub-section.
10 Whichever method is used, the same
sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11
and 12) to ensure the removal of all air from
the system.

Bleeding sequence

11 If the system has been only partially
disconnected, and suitable precautions were
taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be
necessary to bleed only that part of the
system (ie the primary or secondary circuit).
12 If the complete system is to be bled, then
it is suggested that you work in the following
sequence:

a) Right-hand front wheel.
b) Left-hand rear wheel.
c) Left-hand front wheel.
d) Right-hand rear wheel.

Bleeding - basic (two-man)
method

13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
of plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fit
over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fit
the screw. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw
in the sequence (if not already done). Fit a
suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place
the other end of the tube in the jar, and pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.
15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir

fluid level is maintained at least above the
“Minimum” level throughout the procedure.
16 Have the assistant fully depress the brake
pedal several times to build up pressure, then
maintain it down on the final downstroke.
17 While pedal pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and air to
flow into the jar. The assistant should maintain
pedal pressure, following the pedal down to
the floor if necessary, and should not
release the pedal until instructed to do so.
When the flow stops, tighten the bleed screw
again. Have the assistant release the pedal
slowly, and recheck the reservoir fluid level.
18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16
and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled, and air
is being bled from the first screw in the
sequence, allow at least five seconds between
cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill.
19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten
the bleed screw securely, remove the tube
and spanner, and refit the dust cap (where
applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed
screw.
20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
screws in the sequence, until all air is
removed from the system and the brake pedal
feels firm again.

Bleeding - using a one-way
valve kit

21 As their name implies, these kits consist of
a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted,
to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
back into the system; some kits include a
translucent container, which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can be more easily
seen flowing from the end of the tube.
22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened (see illustration). The
user returns to the driver’s seat, depresses
the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke,
and slowly releases it; this is repeated until
the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles.
23 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this is
maintained at least above the “Minimum” level
at all times.

9•10 Braking system

13.22 Bleeding the hydraulic system using

a one-way valve kit

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Bleeding - using a pressure-
bleeding kit

24 These kits are usually operated by the
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it will probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a
lower level than normal; refer to the
instructions supplied with the kit.
25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the master cylinder reservoir,
bleeding can be carried out simply by opening
each screw in turn (in the specified sequence),
and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more
air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.
26 This method has the advantage that the
large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn into the
system during bleeding.
27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding “difficult” systems, or when
bleeding the complete system at the time of
routine fluid renewal.

All methods

28 When bleeding is complete, and firm
pedal feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid,
tighten the bleed screws securely, and refit
their dust caps.
29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if
necessary.
30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has been
bled from the system; it will not be fit for re-
use.
31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system, and further bleeding is required.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
reasonable repetition of the bleeding
procedure may be due to worn master
cylinder seals.

14 Hydraulic system - bleeding

(anti-lock braking system)

3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 On vehicles equipped with the anti-lock

braking system there are two bleed
procedures possible, depending on which
part of the brake hydraulic system has been
disturbed.
2 If any one of the following conditions are
present, bleed procedure A should be
adopted:

a) A modulator has been removed.
b) A modulator return hose (between

modulator and brake fluid reservoir) has
been drained.

c) The rigid brake pipes have been

disconnected from a modulator.

3 If any one of the following conditions are
present, bleed procedure B should be
adopted:

a) Any condition where the master cylinder

has been removed or drained, providing
that the modulator return hoses have not
lost their head of fluid.

b) Removal or disconnection of any of the

basic braking system components ie,
brake caliper, flexible hose or rigid pipe,
wheel cylinder, or load-apportioning
valve.

Bleed procedure A

4 Raise the vehicle on ramps, or drive it over
an inspection pit, so that working clearance
may be obtained with the full weight of the
vehicle on its roadwheels. Remove the one-
piece undertray, as applicable, by turning its
bayonet-type fasteners and, on XR2i models,
remove the front suspension crossmember
(see Chapter 10).
5 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Top-up the brake fluid reservoir to
the MAX mark using fresh fluid of the
specified type (see “Weekly Checks”), and
keep it topped up throughout the bleeding
procedure.
6 Slacken the modulator bypass valve Torx
screw, located between the two rigid brake
pipe connections on the modulator body, and
unscrew it two full turns (see illustration).
7 Fully depress the auto-bleed plunger on the
modulator and hold it down so that the
plunger circlip contacts the modulator body
(see illustration). With the plunger

depressed, have an assistant steadily pump
the brake pedal at least twenty times whilst
you observe the fluid returning to the brake
fluid reservoir. Continue this operation until
the returning fluid is free from air bubbles.
8 Release the auto-bleed plunger, ensuring
that it returns to its normal operational
position - pull it out by hand if necessary.
9 Tighten the modulator bypass valve Torx
screw.
10 Repeat the operation on the other
modulator, if applicable, then refit the one-
piece undertray and the front suspension
crossmember if removed.
11 Now carry out bleed procedure B.

Bleed procedure B

12 This procedure is the same as for
conventional braking systems, and reference
should be made to Section 13. Note,
however, that all the weight of the vehicle
must be on the roadwheels, otherwise the
load-apportioning valves will not bleed. If
problems are encountered whereby the rear
brakes will not bleed satisfactorily, ensure that
the load-apportioning valves are correctly
adjusted (see Section 25). As with the
conventional braking system, the brake fluid
level must be kept topped up during bleeding.

15 Vacuum servo unit - testing,

removal and refitting

3

Testing

1 To test the operation of the servo, depress
the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum, then start the engine while keeping
the footbrake depressed. As the engine starts,
there should be a noticeable “give” in the
brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the
engine to run for at least two minutes, and
then switch it off. If the brake pedal is
depressed again, it should be possible to
detect a hiss from the servo when the pedal is
depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing will be heard,
and the pedal will feel considerably firmer.
2 Before assuming that a problem exists in
the servo itself, check the non-return valve as
described in the next Section.

Removal

3 Refer to Section 9 and remove the master
cylinder.
4 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the servo
non-return valve by pulling it free. If it is
reluctant to move, assist it by prising it free
using a screwdriver with its blade inserted
under the elbow flange.
5 Lift up the flap of sound insulation on the
bulkhead, in the passenger side footwell, to
expose the servo mounting bracket retaining
nuts (see illustration 11.6). Remove the two
innermost nuts to free the inner section of the
servo mounting bracket from its bulkhead

Braking system 9•11

14.7 Modulator auto-bleed plunger

(arrowed)

14.6 Modulator bypass valve Torx screw

(arrowed)

9

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

location. Slacken the other two nuts or
remove them, as necessary.
6 Remove the four nuts securing the servo
unit to its mounting bracket assembly, then
pull the servo forward to remove the inner
servo support bracket (see illustration).
7 Remove the spring clip and clevis pin
securing the servo pushrod to the cross link,
then lift out the servo unit (see illustration).
8 Note that the servo unit cannot be
dismantled for repair or overhaul and, if faulty,
must be renewed.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refer to
Section 9 for details of refitting the master
cylinder.

16 Vacuum servo unit vacuum

hose and non-return valve -
removal, testing and refitting

1

Removal

1 Depress the brake pedal three or four times
to exhaust any remaining vacuum from the
servo unit.
2 Carefully pull free and detach the servo
vacuum hose from the servo unit. If the hose
is reluctant to move, prise it free with the aid
of a screwdriver, inserting its blade under the
flange of the elbow.
3 Detach the vacuum hose from its inlet
manifold connection. Depending on the fixing,
undo the union nut and withdraw the hose, or
press the hose and its retaining collar
inwards, then holding the collar in, withdraw
the hose.
4 If the hose or the fixings are damaged or in
poor condition, they must be renewed.

Non-return valve testing

5 Examine the non-return valve for damage
and signs of deterioration, and renew it if
necessary. The valve may be tested by
blowing through its connecting hoses in
both directions. It should only be possible
to blow from the servo end to the manifold
end.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If fitting a
new non-return valve, ensure that it is fitted
the correct way round.

17 Handbrake lever -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then chock
the wheels to secure the vehicle.
2 Undo the bolts securing the front seats to
the floorpan, and remove both seats from the
vehicle (see Chapter 11). Move the seats on
their slide mechanisms to expose the
mounting bolts, as necessary.
3 Remove the screws securing the rear seat
cushion, then raise the cushion to obtain
access to the carpet retaining screws.
Remove the carpet retaining screws.
4 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt clips to
the centre of the floorpan, then remove the
clip assembly.
5 Remove the seat belt lower anchor bracket
bolt from its location at the base of the B-pillar
behind the driver’s seat.
6 Remove the screws securing the sill scuff
plate to the driver’s side of the vehicle, then
carefully pull the sill scuff plate away from its
location so that the carpet is released.

7 Fold the carpet forwards, at the same time
carefully easing it out from under the sill scuff
plate. Lift the carpet over the handbrake lever.
8 Lift out the noise insulation for access to
the lever mounting bolts and the primary
cable fixing.
9 Fully release the handbrake lever, then
remove the handbrake primary cable clevis
pin securing clip (see illustration).
Remove the clevis pin and withdraw the
primary cable from the handbrake lever
assembly.
10 Remove the cover (see illustration), then
disconnect the handbrake warning light
switch wiring connection, and undo the two
screws securing the switch to the handbrake
lever assembly.
11 Undo the handbrake lever mounting bolts,
then withdraw the handbrake lever assembly
from the vehicle.

Refitting

12 Refitting is the reverse procedure to
removal, ensuring that the handbrake warning
light wiring is routed away from the lever
ratchet. The loom should be secured to the
floorpan with tape.
13 Check the handbrake adjustment as
described in Chapter 1 to complete.

18 Handbrake primary cable -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Release the primary cable from the
handbrake lever, as described in the previous
Section.
2 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
3 Where applicable, detach the exhaust
system and remove the heat shields from the
underside floorpan to allow access to the
primary cable connections underneath the
vehicle (see Chapter 4E).
4 Release the spring clip securing the pin,
and extract the equaliser/cable pin. Detach

9•12 Braking system

17.10 Removing the cover from the

handbrake warning light switch

17.9 Removing the handbrake primary

cable clevis pin securing clip

15.7 Spring clip (A) and clevis pin (B)

securing servo pushrod to the cross link

15.6 Nuts securing servo unit to its

mounting bracket assembly (arrowed)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake