Jaguar XJ-S. Manual — part 117

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Another product favored for protection is called P.O.R. 15. According to Vince Chrzanowski, “A customer once
painted the exterior of a car radio with POR (don’t ask me why). When we tried to remove the stuff, we found it was
nearly like porcelain in hardness and durability. We had to change to a more aggressive abrasive in the bead blast
cabinet. I hope never to see POR on a radio again, but wouldn’t mind it on the frame of my Mark IX.”

PAINT: Jeffrey Gram reports: “Here in Europe many cars imported from the US are eventually repainted, and even
many professionals are not aware of a pitfall in this area. According to a local “spritzer” the paint used on US cars are
of a different and higher elasticity than Europe paint to be able to cope with extreme temperature variations causing
expansion and contraction of the body sheet metal. If a US paintwork is spraypainted with EU paint, cracks will appear
since the EU paint cannot cope with the expansion and contraction of the US paint layer. The solution is to either
repaint from bare metal, or to spraypaint the US paint with a couple of layers of “bridging paint” before the new paint
layer.”

FASTENERS: All fasteners on the exterior of a car need to be stainless steel. On the XJ-S, it appears that most of
them are -- if nobody’s been working on your car. If there’s a chance that some of yours have been replaced by some
repairman or PO that didn’t know any better, check all of them with a magnet (a magnet won’t attract stainless steel)
and replace any that are not stainless. This includes all the screws holding lamp lenses on. Here in the US, another
good indicator is to carefully inspect the cross drive head; if it’s Phillips, it is not the original screw -- the original
screws were Pozidriv.

This author was unfortunate in that the turn signal bulbs in my front bumper had not burnt out in a long time. I say
unfortunate because the screws that hold the lenses on had corroded and seized so badly they had to be drilled out --
four out of four, 100%. These screws were plain steel; since it is probable that Jaguar originally fitted stainless steel
screws to these lenses, I may have been a victim of a previous repair. If your screws are still removable, I highly
recommend you check to make sure they are stainless, and if not to purchase four 10-32 x 1-¼” Phillips drive oval head
stainless steel screws to replace them with. Even with stainless steel screws, be sure to apply some anti-seize
compound when reinstalling -- the clip nuts are not stainless.

Here in Bubbaland, 10-32 stainless steel screws are difficult to find, so I replaced the elaborate clip nuts on the bumper
with conventional #10 clip nuts (available at auto parts stores) and bought some #10 x 1¼” stainless steel Phillips drive
oval head sheet metal screws at a marine supply store. I never have to worry again about getting them out.

Stainless steel fasteners can be found at most marine supply stores and many better hardware stores, although fine
thread or metric sizes are often a challenge.

ADHESIVES: According to Charles Daly, “A call to 3M produced the following info: If it’s neoprene, as in a fitting,
washer, etc., then 3M-8001 (Neoprene) is best. If it’s weatherstripping type application and the rubber is EPDM
(Ethylene Propylene Dieme Monomer) (which is what most auto weatherstrip is) then use 3M-80119 (which is called
weatherstrip adhesive).”

WATER LEAKS - A/C SYSTEM: Bob Tilley investigated the cause of water leaking from his air conditioning system
during rainy weather. It turned out that the plastic cover over the windscreen wiper motor had deteriorated and started
breaking apart -- a common problem discussed on page 615. In Tilley’s case, the various parts of the cover found their
way into the drain pipes that feed from the wiper area through the engine compartment and out through the wheel wells.
The drains end with a rubber elbow, and the plastic parts got lodged in it and plugged it, causing the wiper
compartment to fill with rainwater and start draining into the air conditioner. Tilley recommends that the drains be fully
disassembled to ensure that all plastic scraps (as well as leaves and other debris) have been cleared.

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WATER LEAKS - FLOOR: Hunt Dabney reports: “At some time in its past, someone lifted my car improperly. This
caused the seams at the front of the floor, both sides, to become separated just enough for water to wick in during heavy
rains. No apparent structural damage, but lots-o-wet-carpet. I sealed this from below with silicone seal, and while at it
popped out the drain plugs from each floor section, cleaned them and reinstalled them, also with silicone.”

WATER LEAKS - DOORS: Ian Finlay suggests applying talcum powder to the seals, then closing the door and
applying a hose. The talcum should make the location of the leak obvious.

WATER LEAKS - A-PILLAR DRAIN: At the corners where the rain gutters meet the windshield, the seal appears to
have a gap underneath the chrome trim. This is deliberate, providing a drain for this area of the roof down the inside of
the A pillar. It’d be a bad idea to try to seal it up.

Pat Johnson was getting rainwater on the floor, and finally figured out it was coming from these drains at the top front
corners of the roof. Water that finds its way into these drains -- a goodly amount, to be sure -- is supposed to run down
the pillar between the chrome trim piece and the structure and through the bodywork in front of the door. Somehow, it
was being diverted inside the structure, and ended up in the carpet instead. The solution involved removing the chrome
trim piece covering the A-pillar. “Being a novice at this, I was a little (a lot) scared to start removing rivets. They look
so permanent! But I bit the bullet and started drilling. It was easy! I found gaps between the body and the molding.
After calling a glass repair shop and getting some silicone, I went to work. I filled all the crevices and opened the drain
hole. I then refit the chrome and put my first rivets in. I must say, I think I did a pretty good job. It looks just like new
and the lake is gone.

“It is supposed to drain in front of the door. Leaves and some other unidentifiable gunk were plugging it. The channel
was also narrower than I think it was supposed to be due to the black rubber material under the chrome spreading
toward the center.”

Harry Trafford elaborates: “After drilling out the little pop rivets, carefully pry the chrome off. It will come off. I used
a small stiff detailing brush to clean it all up under there. I took a very small screwdriver and ran the blade under the
gasket edges to clean them out. A lot of dirt was removed. I purchased a tube of Permatex Auto Glass Sealer, then
using the screwdriver end, I gently lifted the gasket edges, sliding the tip down the glass and followed right behind it
with the sealer. The sealer is thin and is supposed to run into the crevice. If you get the sealer smeared all over, use
acetone or nail polish remover to clean it up. Do not get acetone or nail polish remover on the car’s paint!

“I used small 1/4” to 3/8” sheet metal screws to reattach the chrome strips on the “A” pillar. Works fine.” Stainless
steel is recommended.

WATER LEAKS – FRONT WING ATTACHMENT: In the December 1996 issue of Jaguar Enthusiast magazine,
John Wood describes tracking down and correcting a leak from the “wing rail”, which made it into the area beside the
footwell and managed to soak the carpets. This particular problem was apparently aggravated by body work done on
the sill.

WATER LEAKS -- MIRRORS: Emile A. Des Roches says, “My wife's XJS had a seemingly "irremovable" white
mineral dripline under the outside mirrors -- the only blemish on her 16,000 original mile ’95 XJS coupe. After many
experiments with paint rejuvenation problems the blemish was removed -- until the next rainstorm. It seems that water
builds under the mirror, minerals gather from the various metals involved in the plating process, screws and blind nuts
holding the mirror to the body and the oxidized product finds its way out under the black plastic piece separating the
mirror from the door.

“The fix is to disassemble & clean the back side of the door mirror/plastic escutcheon assembly, then to put RTV or
similar sealant around the inside of the black plastic escutcheon. After a couple of months, it worked so well that I tried
it on my car too. Incidentally, the excess H

2

O will drain into the door and out the bottom drain holes harmlessly.”

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This author has never had this problem; when I first got the ’83, the black plastic gaskets were so badly deteriorated that
they were immediately replaced with pieces of rubber cut from an old inner tube. Since the rubber is more pliable than
the plastic ever was, it apparently sealed effectively without the addition of sealant.

Des Roches responds: “OK, I admit to cheating and using "black again" on the crappy-looking grey plastic escutcheon.
As I recall from my friend's mid-’80’s S, the newer cars have a thicker (about .4") escutcheon around the outside
mirror. Wish I had thought of the rubber however.”

SUNROOF -- FACTORY OR DEALER ADD-ON? The question of whether the XJ-S ever actually was fitted with a
sunroof from the factory always seems to generate more argument than definitive answers. Whether or not any
sunroofs were actually built into the car at Coventry, it is apparent that many of the sunroofs that came on new cars
were installed by dealers to boost sales. In this case, each one may be different. Steve Draper, who owns an ’88, says,
“I note that in my XJ-S manual, the sunroof switch is located on the center panel between the window switches, on the
same plastic panel. In my car, the switch is under the steering wheel, and when viewed closely has the aftermarket
name on it. An easy indicator of factory installation may be the switch (which I wish was on the center panel).”

“I, Chad Bolles, do hereby state for the record once and for all that Jaguar did offer a sunroof in the XJ-S and I do not
care what anybody else says. Quoting from Jaguar XJ-S Drivers Handbook publication part no. JJM 18 02 03/85, in
the index section 5: “Fittings - Sunroof-Coupe: page 71” and on page 71 we see how to operate same and on page 72
we see how to operate in the manual operation mode. If those who know everything had taken the time to look in the
parts book, part no. RTC9888CE dated August 1987 on page 2J 11L you would see part no. BBC2682 and I will be
damned if it doesn’t look like a sunroof and even has the title “Sunroof” and uses part no. JLM440/ND Headlining
Cloth. Then try page 2J 11R and what do you know all the pieces for the roof are listed. Next try page 2J 12L and I
will be darned all the elec pieces are listed there.

“The roof was offered as an option in 86 and from then on as a kit.”

WATER LEAKS - SUNROOF: At least some of the sunroofs installed, as well as the ones fitted to the XJ6 at the
factory, use drains on the front corners to route water down the A-pillars and out the bottom of the car. These drains
are thin and easily plugged with debris. If a wire is used occasionally to keep them clear, the tendency of the sunroof to
leak water to the interior is greatly reduced.

There also may be some problem with the connection between the sunroof and the drain tube. It may be helpful to
inspect the connection and, if necessary, apply some sealant.

SUNROOF REMOVAL: Since sunroofs for XJ-S’s don’t exist, your ROM may not tell you how to remove it; so, here
are instructions provided by Murray Trotter. Note that these instructions actually apply to the XJ6, but apparently the
sunroofs are similar. Also note that when he says “hood lining”, he means the headlining. “To remove the metal
outside skin of the sunroof, slide back, undo the phillips head screws along the front edge, slide roof forward, on switch
until almost closed, lift up front of roof and pull forward, back edge is clipped in. Take care not to lift roof too high
otherwise you will mark it on the outside edge of the roof. Quite simple to remove with a bit of care.

“The actual body of the roof is a little bit more difficult, removal of the hood lining is required. First remove the
outside rim around the hood lining; this requires removal of the sunvisors, etc. Then prise all the covered mouldings
off carefully. This is hard to do and I always seem to end up breaking a clip or two. The actual lining can then be
dropped. It is glued around the outside edge. Careful with this one, it is easy to rip the lining. You will then see the the
actual sunroof is all one unit which has four metal brackets, like legs coming off it. These are pop-riveted to the inside
edge of the roof; drill these out, and you can drop the whole thing out as unit. Don’t forget to unplug the wiring.”

WATER LEAKS - CONVERTIBLE TOP: Julian Mullaney says, “I’ve never had a single drop come in my 1991 XJ-S
Convertible, but I did adjust the top to fit tighter. This is simple, just screw in the hooks a turn or two on each side of

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the top rail. This makes the top clamp harder to the windshield gasket. When I did it, it eliminated a small squeak
when body flexing over bumps.”

WATER LEAKS - WINDSHIELD: Most modern automobiles glue the windshield to the structure and then attach a
piece of trim over top to conceal the joint. You can tell such arrangements because the glass itself has a black pattern
printed on it; the black is to keep the sunlight off the glue, which would cause it to deteriorate. Supposedly the Jaguar
XJ-S went to this sort of attachment scheme in the 90’s.

On the earlier cars, Jaguar actually used a real rubber gasket that fits around a lip on the car and fits around the edge of
the glass, holding it in. The seal is called a Clayton-Wright type seal, meaning that it involves a locking strip; the seal
and glass are installed, and then a hard plastic strip is pressed into a groove in the seal which jams it firmly against the
glass. If you remove the four stainless steel trim pieces, the locking strip is hidden underneath. Once you remove the
locking strip, the glass can be removed and reinstalled fairly easily.

In an article in the February 2002 issue of Classic Jaguar World, Ray Storer of National Windscreens Romford points
out that water can get in between the laminates of a windshield and cause whitening of the glass. To prevent this -- or
prevent it from getting any worse once it’s already begun -- Storer applies liquid rubber to the edge of the glass itself.

If you’re lucky, you may be able to stop your leaks without removing the glass. Remove the stainless steel trim remove
the locking strip, and then it’s a simple matter to pry the edge of the seal away from the glass. Clean all the crud out,
clean it all really well with alcohol or some such, then apply some clear flowable windshield sealant and jam the plastic
strip back in. As the strip presses the seal hard against the glass, the flowable sealant will ooze out. Wipe off the
excess, reinstall the stainless trim strips, and you should be leak-free.

You’re supposed to use a small loop of metal wire to reinstall the locking strip. The loop fits into the slot and the strip
passes through the opening, so just sliding the loop along the slot puts the strip in place. You can buy a special tool, but
you can also just make one from a coat hanger.

WINDSHIELD SCRATCHES: Chip Lamb suggests: “I was told Bon-Ami household cleaner works great. Removes
pits and scratches. Removed the scratches made by my windshield wiper ends on my Saab 1991 900 2 or so winters
ago. Worked like a charm.”

Somebody else suggested toothpaste -- the abrasive kind, not the gel kind.

WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT: Chad Bolles says, “What you really need is a glass shop that knows what it is
doing. The seal will not fit if you install it on the glass out of the car, it will be loose, but once installed will be tight.
The seal must be sealed to the body and to the glass itself, if the glass shop says anything different, then take your car
elsewhere, they do not know what they are doing. The factory manual says to seal it that way.”

Mark West concurs: “My experience with a new windshield in my ’89 XJ-S, installed by the dealer, was enough to
convince me that a broken windshield is equivalent to a blown engine in terms of severity. Three tries, two new seals, a
glass shop that claimed to know what they were doing but installed it with the seal in upside down once (gave the car a
sort of “Mickey Mouse” ears), and gallons of antacid later, I finally had a windshield that didn’t leak, seemed to fit
okay, didn’t make too much noise going around corners, and was generally 80% acceptable.

“Don’t think that Joe’s Local House of Glass can do the work. You’ll hate yourself in the morning.”

HOOD GAS STRUTS: If you’re tired of your XJ-S hood falling on your head, but don’t want to pay the $$ for new
Jaguar struts, Herbert Sodher provides a suggestion. There is a device made by Pylon called Lift Lock, and it is sold at
auto parts stores as well as Wal-Mart and Kmart for about $8. It is a device which is clamped onto the plunger of the
strut, and has an arm that slides along the outside of the strut housing as the hood is opened. When fully open, the arm
clears the end of the strut housing, falls against the plunger, and jams against the end of the strut housing to hold the